Never thought I would be watching a 20 minute video about air hoses and not regret it. Amazing video, it told me everything I needed to know. Way to youtube.
I'm completely new and lost to air compressors! This is one of the most informing video I've seen. I feel so much better "kitting out" my first air compressor. Thank you for sharing!
My 2 cents- If you're just starting out buy 3/8" high flow hose with 1/4" high flow fittings. 3/8" is the internal diameter (ID) of the hose, and 1/4" is the size of the thread on the fitting ends, NOT the ID. The high flow fittings still have 1/4" threads but their internal diameter is larger, which means they flow more (CFM). This can come in handy with an impact wrench on a stuck/frozen nut or for some spray painting guns. Milton V series fittings are high flow, and they also dont require you to pull back the sleeve on the quick disconnect fitting to connect. Just push. Only releasing the hose fitting requires pulling back the sleeve. Also, you can buy repair fittings for the hose that dont require a hose clamp. They look almost like a factory end. Last, Makita makes a nice 3/8" air hose that has no coil memory. It curls in either direction with no problem. I am sure there are others out there as well.
Yes standard quarter inch fittings work well for construction type tools. But if you're doing other things like die grinders, impact tools, sandblasting, get the Milton v style or the 3/8 connections. Milton v style comes with quarter inch threads or 3/8 threads so you can match them to your hose. I find that the Milton v style is compatible with the IM standard quarter inch fittings you may have on some of your tools already. Avoid these new aluminum high flow quarter inch fittings that are showing up. They do not hold up.
Thank God a real educational video about air compressors, the hoses, air connectors, and tools. The sheer amount of clickbait with referral links is frustrating that youtube has been paid to suggest is frustrating. Thank you for taking the time to make an education video for the benefit of the masses. Paying your knowledge forward and leaving pieces of yourself and your knowledge in over 113,000 thousand people. A living legacy to be proud of off, although you come off as humble person.
This vid saved my life. I’m getting into casting my own sculptures but I’m utterly shop tool illiterate. I was confused as to why my hose fittings had so much space and my compressor just leaked air, i had no clue about sealing tape. Thanks for the patiently described and extremely informative video!!!
Just came accross your video and must say it was very informative! Especially appreciate the fact that it is coming from someone with years of actual experience and expert knowledge to back it up! Thanks!
I wish to heck I had found this video first, you would have saved me hours of research. I had to replace our old home compressor, and I knew zero about them. Starting from zero knowledge, I managed to learn enough about them to choose one that was right for me. (I found a Makita 2.6 Gal oil lube that should be perfect) but then the choice of hoses and fittings was another hurdle. Your video laid out in a little under 20 minutes what I needed hours of reading and video watching to accomplish, and some of the stuff you explained I would have never even thought to ask. Many “handy people” discuss things in such a way where they have an assumption of a certain level of knowledge that I did not have, so I was left with many more questions when they were done talking. You explained everything in such a clear way, and answered many questions that always remained after reading and watching other videos. Thank you for taking the time to make this very I formative video.
Thank for the time it took you to explain this this in-depth to newbies like myself. Evan the different type of compressors available. Real work guy Thanks.
Good explanation video. I had to watch 3 videos before I got to yours that answered my questions.I've used compressors but I have never purchased on and needed to understand what to use and how to assemble the fittings. Thanks for making it easy to understand.
Great video. I also have a tip if you have a long distance between the compressor and the job, I use a seperate 10 liter tank close by the job. So run a 40ft 3/8" from the compressor to the extra tank and from the extra tank to the tool. It really works well for short burst of full pressure tools. Ofcourse not for long periods then your long hose will become the weakest link again.
I want to thank you for your detailed instructions on connecting the hose. I am a newbie and I needed air in my tires. I was not able to keep it connected. I watched two other videos before I saw yours and finally I was able to connect that darn hose to the fitting. Thank you so much you are awesome. Great visual aid in assisting those of us that have no clue. You saved me cause I really needed air in my tires.
Thanks for all the great info. In the many times over the years I've used compressors, I never realized how much I didn't know until I went to buy my own, lol.
4 years later and as relevant as it ever was. Good to hang out with folks, center a discussion around a topic, trade tips and learn. My tip is to get a larger hose for next to the compressor, then hook lighter ones for added distance, if you need to. That big hose is a reservoir of air, once filled it extends your tank a little, run anything a bit longer. And, it takes some of the wear. You could use 3/8" or even 1/2" at the tank, and adapt down to the extensions' size. You should own hoses of different types and sizes, especially if your work and location can vary!
Thanks SO much for making this video. I’m a first time home buyer, and a first time user of an air compressor system, and I was getting really confused on what to buy, the names of all the fittings, etc. This video answered a bunch of my questions.
That is true. Getting more common and cheaper these days is Teflon thread sealant compound. Use a lot like pipe-dope, but maybe use a bit less. I'm going to check into whether it's recommended for air connections.
Roofer here!! we always use rubber hoses, never needed polueurethane, u stuff the extra hose in the peak then run back to where you're shingling so it doesnt pull the gun down for that forth nail
I run a detail shop and use a lot of air. No matter which fittings I use they only good for 3 to 4 months, moisture is what kills them, they start to leak. No big deal being I keep several male and female fittings. I'm currently using the 26 gallon Kobalt Quite Compressor with two polyurethane hoses , going on 4 years since I replaced them. Rubber of course are best. Thanks for the video
I do find that brass fittings are more forgiving and last longer than steel. That's all I buy now. But, if you use your air hoses daily you should expect that the fittings will wear out from time to time.
My only concern with ganging tanks like that is that the pancake compressor is only rated at 90 PSI and if you connect that to 150 psi 60 gallon tank is the smaller tank going to be rated to hold that much pressure without something failing
I just came off phone to PCL Co in uk. The vertex is a safety type for trailing hoses. The female fitting has fixed lip with sliding collar. If you knock the end it wont pop apart.
This is very helpful, explaining the differences. I wish I saw this, before I bought my air hoses, and fittings. Now I will know what to replace them with, when the time comes. I use a tank that has no compressor, the kind you fill up with a gas station tire filling air pump. I use that as an extra capacity tank, connected to my small compressor. What I have noticed is, that you get more use between, when the compressor runs, but the compressor runs longer, each time it refills the tanks. Not sure what the value of that is.
Thank you very much. This was an Excellent review!! Very informative and I learned a lot (exactly what I was looking for). It’s nice of you to take the time and share your knowledge, especially from experience.
the brown hose that you show the male and female connector to which is not a standard hose most houses are a male end on both ends but what you show is the female connector is a universal connector with three bands it will take either the automotive or the industrial male ends.
How can a (man-made) rubber hose withstand oil and grease ? Rubber is notorious for becoming soft, weakens and eventually melts when exposed to oil or grease for an extended time ! Otherwise, you've done a great job laying out the basics. Thanks.
The term "rubber" is used loosely, as all rubber products are compounds. There is no concern about rubber hoses in automotive shops, they have been used for decades in that setting without issue.
7:59 I don't think there's 3/8" "high flow" fittings like there are both standard flow and high flow 1/4" fittings. Milton calls their 1/4" high flows "V" type. They have differing dimensions from 1/4" body connectors other than just the inner diameter, and therefore aren't interchangeable, you have to put a 1/4" high flow plug into a high flow coupler, it won't fit into a regular coupler. The 1/4" high flow connections actually flow a little bit more air than a standard 3/8" fitting, (Milton says 74 CFM for high flow 1/4 and 68 CFM for 3/8) (1/4 regular is only 30-40.) but like I said I've never seen a coupling plug with a 3/8" body with a larger diameter than normal hole through it, just 1/4" ones. Another drawback of larger or higher flow setups are that they can over-use the air and cause the compressor to run more often than necessary. Pages 48 and 49 have diagrams of the different types, their sizes and flowrates.
It should be pointed out that "hi-flow" and similar terms are used by marketing people, it's not an official or legal term. So there isn't any standard, really. Short of setting up our own science experiments all we can do is take the word of the manufacturers on flow rates.
The hose 'curl' factor is definitely an issue with the hose that came with my Porter-Cable pancake compressor. I'm constantly fighting it wanting to curl up. I've even considered getting a shorter hose, but maybe I need to get a rubber hose or the hybrid instead. I do like how light the hose I have is, but after using it on my remodel now for a while I'm ready to give up light weight for a hose that I don't have to fight with all the time.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and effort to create it for the rest of us. Joe Pesci and you share a similar sounding voice btw. You could do voice overs for him lol. Anyhow, thanks, man, for such an informative video. Peace.
If you want max output from one of these portable units, use 3/8" hose and 3/8" couplers. Try 1/4"`and try 3/8", you will notice the vast difference in air delivery with 3/8".
Thanks for sharing that info.. I have a 10 gal compressor and have been trying to get a main shaft pulley bolt off my car but my 3/8 dr impact wont loosen the bolt. I have been told to make direct fittings to the gun and compressor, shorten the air hose to get more air to the gun. Now after watching this video I think I need to go to a 3/8" adapter to my hose. I am using an aircat impact which should have no problem getting that bolt loose. What's your thoughts?
I have one 100 ft PVC hose and the rest are Goodyear black rubber hoses. In cold weather, the PVC hose is stiff, but the rubber hoses are still pretty flexible. In in the SE Texas Gulf Coast area, so our "cold" is not really *that* cold, but the PVC hose is still stiff enough that I avoid using it in our "winter" unless absolutely necessary. Another solution for a larger air tank for your compressor is to adapt a spare 20 lb BBQ propane tank. The propane tank fitting is called "POL" and it's possible to get an adapter that goes from POL to 1/4" MNPT for $8 or less. Once you get to the 1/4" NPT, there are plenty of choices for adapting it to air hose fittings. You basically want a T-connector with one leg going to the compressor, one leg going to the propane tank, and the last leg going to the tool that you are operating. Since the propane tank has a valve on it, you can close the valve when you get through and save the air that is in it, thus not needing to air it back up the next time you use it. Often you can get these tanks for free (or very little cost) because they need to be pressure tested periodically and the tanks are cheap enough that the companies just replace them instead of having them hydostatically tested.
I had to look that up--it's just a quick release fitting, but the "vertex" term seems to be used in the UK and perhaps Europe as a whole. The term is not common in the states.
In your demonstration where you inserted the male end hose fitting into the female quick disconnect on your compressor, that female quick disconnect is worn out and leaking. You can easily hear it in the video. The reason is because your female quick disconnect only has three ball bearings in it. If you install A Milton "P" fitting, they use 8 ball bearings and NEVER leak. Back in 1984 I replaced the crappy male and female fittings on all of my rubber air hoses with Milton P fittings. I still have those hoses, and they have never leaked. But the problem with rubber 3/8" hoses is they are heavy and stiff. It is sometimes hard to maneuver an air gun or air tool into proper position. They will however last longer than any other type of hose. I must say though, when I discovered 3/8" POLYURETHANE Air hose that was the end of the rubber hose. Polyurethane air hose is the best thing they ever invented. Super light and flexible, and if you keep it wound on a hose reel it will not kink.
Actually, my hose leaks tend to come from the male side. The fitting gets banged up on construction sites and eventually loses it's ability to seal. I rarely need to replace the female side but the male ends take a beating. It's important to match your hoses and fittings to your environment. Somebody who works mostly in a wood shop will have different needs than somebody doing remodeling work onsite, for example. Polyurethane hoses are great in some situations. I still prefer rubber, though, for my line of work. The rubber will pull more cleanly through a maze of debris and other cords, it will lay flat so I'm not tripping over it, and they are the easiest to re-roll at the end of a long day. The rubber hoses are easiest to repair in the field. And, there are times when I need to hang a tool by the hose if things go wrong while I'm on a ladder. Rubber hoses take that abuse a little better.
Hello. Sorry this may be off-topic. I have 12 gallon air compressor. Is it okay to depressurize the air tank receiver by using the safety relief valve by pulling the ring? I just tried a little from a distance, and heard a loud sound of air for a second and it kinda scared me. Is it dangerous procedure to pull the ring on the safety relief valve to depressurize it?
Not to worry, that relief valve will make a racket but no harm done. However, it's a lot more efficient and useful to drain the tank using the drain valve located somewhere on the bottom of the tank. This will release the air pressure but also drain out the water condensation which naturally occurs. It may appear rusty if you have a steel tank, but that is normal. Draining this water will help preserve the tank.
Repairing some air hoses is just a matter of cutting off a section and using replacement fittings with a "barbed" connection. You can add a small hose clamp to the barbed fitting if you like. Rubber and polyurethane hoses can be repaired this way. If you have a hole in the middle of the hose you may be out of luck. There are barbed coupler fittings which can be used by cutting the house in half and connecting both ends to the barbed coupler. But, it's annoying to have the coupler in the middle of the hose, so I would just replace the whole hose if it comes to that.
I have a 1/2 inch impact that didn’t work for crap till I upgraded to 3/8 hose and fittings. My compressor is rated properly. Only 25 ft of hose. Not the best impact though , maybe a better gun would be ok with 1/4 ??
It really depends on what you're doing, the power of your impact wrench on it's own, and how much torque you need. If your impact wrench is marginal for the torque you need anyway, then hoses and fitting will definitely matter. If you're working on something that requires very high torque values, then they matter too. On the other hand, if you're using the impact wrench more for speed or convenience then the hoses and fitting may not be as important. I've used 1/4 hose on a wrench driving wheel lug nuts and been able to get satisfactory torque values (lug nuts are often overdriven anyway). That same set up, though, is not enough when I work on my truck suspension or truck bed hold down bolts. It's all a balance. If you are only doing automotive work and will likely need max torque on a frequent basis, then stick with the 3/8 hose.
I have found that pure rubber hoses hold up far longer than other types. That's what I carry on my trailer and what I use in my shop. Plus, they are repairable if an end gets damaged.
Nice video! I am new to using an air compressor and bought a100 ft 3/8 hose. I purchased a 1/4 blow gun and tire inflation gun. I have used them and it seems to work, but it sounds like I should switch out for the 3/8 tools instead, right?
To be clear, the tools themselves are not going to be any different--it's the hoses and fittings. Some tools, though, such as a large impact driver, will require more air to run effectively. Therefore, a larger size hose and fittings will be appropriate for them. For what you describe, I think you're fine with what you have.
I’m looking at a 30 gallon compressor to run a 1/2” impact. Can’t find anything around hose size (1/4”,3/8”, or 1/2”) and then which fittings would be best. Was thinking 1/2” hose with 3/8” fittings, but not sure if this is the best setup?
You may be overthinking this. Unless you are working on tractor trailers or heavy equipment, there isn't a huge need for every available measure of torque. For common automotive work I often just grab a 1/4 inch hose if it happens to be closer. If you will only be doing automotive work in your driveway and no other type of work, then a 3/8 hose with whatever fittings you find locally is really fine. PVC will provide better abrasion resistance against the ground or sharp metal corners on vehicles. As important, try to minimize the distance between the compressor and the work and spend a little money on a decent impact wrench. Also, keep in mind that there will always be instances where an impact wrench is not the best choice and you'll still need to resort to a breaker bar and a pipe. Not every nut or bolt responds to impact force.
3/8 hose with Milton high flow fittings to maximize. More than enough for the weekend warrior auto projects. If you aren’t using them, try it dude. They’re awesome
Can a hose diameter be too big for a compressor? Just bought a 4scfm and don’t know whether to buy 1/4 or 3/8 hose? I would like to use a framer and impact very limited. Mostly use a brad and stapler. Will i be working the compressor too hard with a 3/8 for smaller tools or will I struggle to drive a framer and impact with a 1/4?
Think more about the demand of your tools than the hose diameter. Once a hose is attached and filled with air, it's a neutral component. What matters is how much air your tool needs to run. You need a compressor that can keep up with your tool, and a hose which can supply enough flow for your tool. For a single framing gun, brad nailer and a stapler you'll be just fine with a 1/4" hose. Certain impact drivers may run better with a larger capacity hose, but you only have a 4 SCFM compressor anyway, so that would be the limiting factor. Stay with a 1/4" hose and you'll be fine.
Great video. I'm looking already not the very first time. A quick question. Someone has given to me a hose which is quite thick and seems good compare to the small one I have. The problem is that it has a minor cut 30-40 cm alone the hose. It is somewhere in 1-2 meters from Female coupler which is not barbed. It looks like it is pressured by manufacturer like the one you're holding @11:43 in your left hand. I was thinking to cut 2m of that hose but was afraid that I can't make it well enough. How dangerous to have hose 20m hose cutted 0.5mm deep for 30-40cm? I was afraid to test to full 150PSI. Is it better to cut 2m and use a steel clamp? I have clamps like you showed earlier
I'll put your mind at ease about something. If your hose develops a sudden leak, it really won't cause any damage. It will make a lot of noise and maybe blow some dust around, but it isn't really dangerous. They sell barbed fittings so that you can repair a hose. Not all hose types can be repaired, but if your is made of rubber or another flexible material there is a good chance you can cut it, install a barbed fitting with a hose clamp, and be ready for work.
Euro couplings are interchangeable with various connectors such as PCL, NPT and hi flo connectors. That makes a lot of sense, what is the point of having lots of incompatible couplers/connectors?
I'm not sure what size male threaded quick disconnect I should pick up for my new Chicago Pneumatic CP860 1/4"die heavy-duty grinder. Can you help me out? Thanks.
You're overthinking this. It's almost certainly the common 1/4" thread size. Go to any Home Depot or Harbor Freight and pick out of the bin the male fitting style (industrial or automotive) of your choice.
Thanks John. I have a pancake compressor now and have been looking for something with a little more capacity for woodworking and finish work mostly. I think you should do a review of that 150psi Porter Cable you use. I'm looking at that one.
Mine are pretty old and I think the design has changed somewhat. When my pancake dies I'll likely get another. These older Porter Cable compressors have held up pretty well, but they do make a racket! They both are noisy and vibrate a lot compared to other compressors. Of course, all oil-less compressors tend to be more noisy. The larger one had a cooling fan break off twice, so I finally just left it off but it hasn't been a problem. If I get a new one I'll do a review.
So with a 6 gallon pancake compressor to mainly be used for airing up tires what size hose and fittings should be used? Is the air chuck the same size or does it need to be 1/4 " in diameter? I thought the compressor would come with the proper hose and fittings but I just opened mine and nothing but the compressor and an in struction booklet.
For that purpose you really don't need to worry--any size hose will be just fine. For the sake of weight savings and ease of storage, a 1/4 inch hose would be best, and you can buy one with fittings already installed. Get a 25 footer if the compressor is close to the car, or a 50 footer if you need the extra length to reach.
On most compressors you can change fittings to your heart's content. They just unscrew and you put on whatever you like. Of course, the couplers can wear out, too, so you need to be able to install new ones.
One other very important item is that the newer compressors are much quieter. I just got a Husky from Home Depot that is 80% quieter than the previous compressors. It has a 20-gallon tank, sits in the vertical position, and has the dual output connectors. I would never buy one of those noisy older-style air compressors of days past!
No, not necessary. My rubber hoses are 15 years old and still in use. The ends by the fittings do crack, but I just clip a few inches off and re-insert the fitting. Certainly you can expect a decade of use out of any decent quality hose.
So for now and then home use the light hybrid should be best for me, on a ladder from time to time odds and ends etc.? Also will use inside the house maybe?
It depends what you are doing with it--carpentry with nail guns? Roofing? Automotive work with impact wrenches? Filling tires? If you just want an all-around decent hose for occasional homeowner use, a 50 foot 1/4 inch rubber hose is a good choice. It's easy to coil, it's good in all temps, and it's not overly heavy.
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Never thought I would be watching a 20 minute video about air hoses and not regret it. Amazing video, it told me everything I needed to know. Way to youtube.
Ha! Glad it was helpful.
I'm completely new and lost to air compressors! This is one of the most informing video I've seen. I feel so much better "kitting out" my first air compressor.
Thank you for sharing!
Glad it helped!
My 2 cents- If you're just starting out buy 3/8" high flow hose with 1/4" high flow fittings. 3/8" is the internal diameter (ID) of the hose, and 1/4" is the size of the thread on the fitting ends, NOT the ID. The high flow fittings still have 1/4" threads but their internal diameter is larger, which means they flow more (CFM). This can come in handy with an impact wrench on a stuck/frozen nut or for some spray painting guns. Milton V series fittings are high flow, and they also dont require you to pull back the sleeve on the quick disconnect fitting to connect. Just push. Only releasing the hose fitting requires pulling back the sleeve. Also, you can buy repair fittings for the hose that dont require a hose clamp. They look almost like a factory end. Last, Makita makes a nice 3/8" air hose that has no coil memory. It curls in either direction with no problem. I am sure there are others out there as well.
Thanks buddy👍
Yes standard quarter inch fittings work well for construction type tools. But if you're doing other things like die grinders, impact tools, sandblasting, get the Milton v style or the 3/8 connections. Milton v style comes with quarter inch threads or 3/8 threads so you can match them to your hose. I find that the Milton v style is compatible with the IM standard quarter inch fittings you may have on some of your tools already. Avoid these new aluminum high flow quarter inch fittings that are showing up. They do not hold up.
Nice tips, thanks Eddie
Thank God a real educational video about air compressors, the hoses, air connectors, and tools. The sheer amount of clickbait with referral links is frustrating that youtube has been paid to suggest is frustrating.
Thank you for taking the time to make an education video for the benefit of the masses. Paying your knowledge forward and leaving pieces of yourself and your knowledge in over 113,000 thousand people. A living legacy to be proud of off, although you come off as humble person.
Thanks for the kind words!
This vid saved my life. I’m getting into casting my own sculptures but I’m utterly shop tool illiterate. I was confused as to why my hose fittings had so much space and my compressor just leaked air, i had no clue about sealing tape. Thanks for the patiently described and extremely informative video!!!
Glad it helped! Sometimes it's just the simple things, like teflon tape, standing in the way of our success.
Just came accross your video and must say it was very informative! Especially appreciate the fact that it is coming from someone with years of actual experience and expert knowledge to back it up! Thanks!
I wish to heck I had found this video first, you would have saved me hours of research. I had to replace our old home compressor, and I knew zero about them. Starting from zero knowledge, I managed to learn enough about them to choose one that was right for me. (I found a Makita 2.6 Gal oil lube that should be perfect) but then the choice of hoses and fittings was another hurdle. Your video laid out in a little under 20 minutes what I needed hours of reading and video watching to accomplish, and some of the stuff you explained I would have never even thought to ask. Many “handy people” discuss things in such a way where they have an assumption of a certain level of knowledge that I did not have, so I was left with many more questions when they were done talking. You explained everything in such a clear way, and answered many questions that always remained after reading and watching other videos. Thank you for taking the time to make this very I formative video.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank for the time it took you to explain this this in-depth to newbies like myself. Evan the different type of compressors available. Real work guy Thanks.
Good explanation video. I had to watch 3 videos before I got to yours that answered my questions.I've used compressors but I have never purchased on and needed to understand what to use and how to assemble the fittings. Thanks for making it easy to understand.
Thank you for such a thorough video! I feel a lot more confident in choosing the right hose/fittings for me now.
Awesome video. Thank for the excellent info and especially for cutting to the chase AND not having music!!
Really useful video. Perfect for me as a beginner in this field.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Great video. I also have a tip if you have a long distance between the compressor and the job, I use a seperate 10 liter tank close by the job. So run a 40ft 3/8" from the compressor to the extra tank and from the extra tank to the tool. It really works well for short burst of full pressure tools. Ofcourse not for long periods then your long hose will become the weakest link again.
That's a good idea, makes a lot of sense to increase the surge capacity without needing to keep the compressor close to the work area.
I want to thank you for your detailed instructions on connecting the hose. I am a newbie and I needed air in my tires. I was not able to keep it connected. I watched two other videos before I saw yours and finally I was able to connect that darn hose to the fitting. Thank you so much you are awesome. Great visual aid in assisting those of us that have no clue. You saved me cause I really needed air in my tires.
Thanks for all the great info. In the many times over the years I've used compressors, I never realized how much I didn't know until I went to buy my own, lol.
4 years later and as relevant as it ever was.
Good to hang out with folks, center a discussion around a topic, trade tips and learn.
My tip is to get a larger hose for next to the compressor, then hook lighter ones for added distance, if you need to.
That big hose is a reservoir of air, once filled it extends your tank a little, run anything a bit longer.
And, it takes some of the wear. You could use 3/8" or even 1/2" at the tank, and adapt down to the extensions' size.
You should own hoses of different types and sizes, especially if your work and location can vary!
Thanks SO much for making this video. I’m a first time home buyer, and a first time user of an air compressor system, and I was getting really confused on what to buy, the names of all the fittings, etc. This video answered a bunch of my questions.
This video answered my questions about fittings, hoses and size. Very informative, thank you.
Thanks for the best information I've seen so far. 👌 very helpful.
Comprehensive and very informative. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise. Its a big help. God bless.
U don't want to over tighten. Don't crank it down. Good video bro. Keep em coming
it's because the fittings are tapered threads, right?
@@yo64yo You just dont want to over tighten any tool
Great video, love the joining of 2 compressors at the end of video. I'll do that...
Excellent presentation and a great teacher 👍🙏
Thorough and exhaustive, thanks for sharing the knowledge!
When threading fittings with teflon (plumber's tape), wrap it clockwise so it doesn't come undone when you screw on the fitting.
Good tip. Clockwise looking at the fitting.
That is true. Getting more common and cheaper these days is Teflon thread sealant compound. Use a lot like pipe-dope, but maybe use a bit less. I'm going to check into whether it's recommended for air connections.
Thank you, very well done and informative presentation. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for such an information rich video a on hoses and connectors! Very valuable to me as a newbie.
Very informative and helpful, had no idea what hose to buy for my new pancake that was given to me. Thank you.
Love your voice. Thanks for clearing up the connection confusion I had.
Roofer here!! we always use rubber hoses, never needed polueurethane, u stuff the extra hose in the peak then run back to where you're shingling so it doesnt pull the gun down for that forth nail
You're not alone, I know some roofers who just hate the poly hoses. I also prefer rubber above all others since it tends to stay untangled.
love the last part , "the trick". valuable tip from the pro.
Timestamp link for those curious: th-cam.com/video/7Df0kSYHoyc/w-d-xo.html.
Thank you so much for 3:09 I’m tryna put air in my dad tire before he gets home 🤣😂
Just the video I was looking for. Thank you for the info.
I run a detail shop and use a lot of air.
No matter which fittings I use they only good for 3 to 4 months, moisture is what kills them, they start to leak. No big deal being I keep several male and female fittings.
I'm currently using the 26 gallon Kobalt Quite Compressor with two polyurethane hoses , going on 4 years since I replaced them.
Rubber of course are best.
Thanks for the video
I do find that brass fittings are more forgiving and last longer than steel. That's all I buy now. But, if you use your air hoses daily you should expect that the fittings will wear out from time to time.
@@enduringcharm
Brass does last a little longer but not by much, can't complain really.
What style are you using? Some styles leak more easily than others, from what I’ve seen.
Thank you very much.
This video is great! Thank you!
When hooking up tanks in series,make sure to open the regulator on the idle compressor or the 2nd tank will not fill with air.
Great tip on ganging the tanks of multiple compressors. Never thought of that.
My only concern with ganging tanks like that is that the pancake compressor is only rated at 90 PSI and if you connect that to 150 psi 60 gallon tank is the smaller tank going to be rated to hold that much pressure without something failing
Actually, many of the pancake compressors are 150PSI.
Sir, you are a master!! Great video!!
Learned a ton from this video -- thank you
Thanks. This is very helpful. I purchased a dually and had no clue how to get from the compressor the the air head.
Very thorough! Good teacher
I just came off phone to PCL Co in uk. The vertex is a safety type for trailing hoses. The female fitting has fixed lip with sliding collar. If you knock the end it wont pop apart.
I don’t know shit about tools but this was super helpful!
This is very helpful, explaining the differences.
I wish I saw this, before I bought my air hoses, and fittings.
Now I will know what to replace them with, when the time comes.
I use a tank that has no compressor, the kind you fill up with a gas station tire filling air pump.
I use that as an extra capacity tank, connected to my small compressor.
What I have noticed is, that you get more use between, when the compressor runs, but the compressor runs longer, each time it refills the tanks.
Not sure what the value of that is.
Thank you, clear and precise and for a newbie like me, perfect. Love the hack to for more air. Brilliant.
Thank you very much. This was an Excellent review!! Very informative and I learned a lot (exactly what I was looking for). It’s nice of you to take the time and share your knowledge, especially from experience.
the brown hose that you show the male and female connector to which is not a standard hose most houses are a male end on both ends but what you show is the female connector is a universal connector with three bands it will take either the automotive or the industrial male ends.
ohhh I needed this explanation so badly - thank you!
Thanks for explaining it's so confusing lol.
Cheers
Tim from Wood 4 Nothing
How can a (man-made) rubber hose withstand oil and grease ? Rubber is notorious for becoming soft, weakens and eventually melts when exposed to oil or grease for an extended time ! Otherwise, you've done a great job laying out the basics. Thanks.
The term "rubber" is used loosely, as all rubber products are compounds. There is no concern about rubber hoses in automotive shops, they have been used for decades in that setting without issue.
thank you! great information. thanks for taking the time to help so many people.
Thank you so much for sharing all this great information!
Thanks. Very informative to a newbee
This is real good info good explanation.
7:59 I don't think there's 3/8" "high flow" fittings like there are both standard flow and high flow 1/4" fittings. Milton calls their 1/4" high flows "V" type. They have differing dimensions from 1/4" body connectors other than just the inner diameter, and therefore aren't interchangeable, you have to put a 1/4" high flow plug into a high flow coupler, it won't fit into a regular coupler. The 1/4" high flow connections actually flow a little bit more air than a standard 3/8" fitting, (Milton says 74 CFM for high flow 1/4 and 68 CFM for 3/8) (1/4 regular is only 30-40.) but like I said I've never seen a coupling plug with a 3/8" body with a larger diameter than normal hole through it, just 1/4" ones. Another drawback of larger or higher flow setups are that they can over-use the air and cause the compressor to run more often than necessary. Pages 48 and 49 have diagrams of the different types, their sizes and flowrates.
It should be pointed out that "hi-flow" and similar terms are used by marketing people, it's not an official or legal term. So there isn't any standard, really. Short of setting up our own science experiments all we can do is take the word of the manufacturers on flow rates.
The hose 'curl' factor is definitely an issue with the hose that came with my Porter-Cable pancake compressor. I'm constantly fighting it wanting to curl up. I've even considered getting a shorter hose, but maybe I need to get a rubber hose or the hybrid instead. I do like how light the hose I have is, but after using it on my remodel now for a while I'm ready to give up light weight for a hose that I don't have to fight with all the time.
For most of what I do the 1/4 inch rubber is ideal. Lays flat, provides enough air for most carpentry tools, and easy to re-coil.
Very detailed and informative. Thank you sir.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and effort to create it for the rest of us. Joe Pesci and you share a similar sounding voice btw. You could do voice overs for him lol. Anyhow, thanks, man, for such an informative video. Peace.
If you want max output from one of these portable units, use 3/8" hose and 3/8" couplers. Try 1/4"`and try 3/8", you will notice the vast difference in air delivery with 3/8".
Excellent review.
Yooooo I thank you for this video I thought I just wasted my money on the things lost on how to connect the cord to the compressor
I this noob learned allot today. Thank you very much
NICE VIDEO THANK'S FOR THE INFORMATIONS.
Great Channel name idea
"This Old Hose"
Thanks for sharing that info.. I have a 10 gal compressor and have been trying to get a main shaft pulley bolt off my car but my 3/8 dr impact wont loosen the bolt. I have been told to make direct fittings to the gun and compressor, shorten the air hose to get more air to the gun. Now after watching this video I think I need to go to a 3/8" adapter to my hose. I am using an aircat impact which should have no problem getting that bolt loose. What's your thoughts?
Thanks Compressor Professor....
I have one 100 ft PVC hose and the rest are Goodyear black rubber hoses. In cold weather, the PVC hose is stiff, but the rubber hoses are still pretty flexible. In in the SE Texas Gulf Coast area, so our "cold" is not really *that* cold, but the PVC hose is still stiff enough that I avoid using it in our "winter" unless absolutely necessary.
Another solution for a larger air tank for your compressor is to adapt a spare 20 lb BBQ propane tank. The propane tank fitting is called "POL" and it's possible to get an adapter that goes from POL to 1/4" MNPT for $8 or less. Once you get to the 1/4" NPT, there are plenty of choices for adapting it to air hose fittings. You basically want a T-connector with one leg going to the compressor, one leg going to the propane tank, and the last leg going to the tool that you are operating. Since the propane tank has a valve on it, you can close the valve when you get through and save the air that is in it, thus not needing to air it back up the next time you use it. Often you can get these tanks for free (or very little cost) because they need to be pressure tested periodically and the tanks are cheap enough that the companies just replace them instead of having them hydostatically tested.
Very good explanations, Thanks
Good advice very helpful
Thanks for the video! Very helpful!
outstanding video, thanks much for taking the time! Oh, and I 2nd the Joe Pesci voice over comment... :)
Great informative video, thank you for sharing your knowledge :)
Excellent information in your video! Thank you.
You saved my day! Thank you very munch!
Great vid just what needed. Whats a vertex fitting?
I had to look that up--it's just a quick release fitting, but the "vertex" term seems to be used in the UK and perhaps Europe as a whole. The term is not common in the states.
In your demonstration where you inserted the male end hose fitting into the female quick disconnect on your compressor, that female quick disconnect is worn out and leaking. You can easily hear it in the video. The reason is because your female quick disconnect only has three ball bearings in it. If you install A Milton "P" fitting, they use 8 ball bearings and NEVER leak. Back in 1984 I replaced the crappy male and female fittings on all of my rubber air hoses with Milton P fittings. I still have those hoses, and they have never leaked. But the problem with rubber 3/8" hoses is they are heavy and stiff. It is sometimes hard to maneuver an air gun or air tool into proper position. They will however last longer than any other type of hose. I must say though, when I discovered 3/8" POLYURETHANE Air hose that was the end of the rubber hose. Polyurethane air hose is the best thing they ever invented. Super light and flexible, and if you keep it wound on a hose reel it will not kink.
Actually, my hose leaks tend to come from the male side. The fitting gets banged up on construction sites and eventually loses it's ability to seal. I rarely need to replace the female side but the male ends take a beating. It's important to match your hoses and fittings to your environment. Somebody who works mostly in a wood shop will have different needs than somebody doing remodeling work onsite, for example. Polyurethane hoses are great in some situations. I still prefer rubber, though, for my line of work. The rubber will pull more cleanly through a maze of debris and other cords, it will lay flat so I'm not tripping over it, and they are the easiest to re-roll at the end of a long day. The rubber hoses are easiest to repair in the field. And, there are times when I need to hang a tool by the hose if things go wrong while I'm on a ladder. Rubber hoses take that abuse a little better.
Here’s a hose tip!! Use electrical heat shrink over the crimp holding the plastic crimp saver in place
Good idea!
Hello. Sorry this may be off-topic. I have 12 gallon air compressor. Is it okay to depressurize the air tank receiver by using the safety relief valve by pulling the ring? I just tried a little from a distance, and heard a loud sound of air for a second and it kinda scared me. Is it dangerous procedure to pull the ring on the safety relief valve to depressurize it?
Not to worry, that relief valve will make a racket but no harm done. However, it's a lot more efficient and useful to drain the tank using the drain valve located somewhere on the bottom of the tank. This will release the air pressure but also drain out the water condensation which naturally occurs. It may appear rusty if you have a steel tank, but that is normal. Draining this water will help preserve the tank.
Hello I am recently subscribed and was wondering if you have done an air hose repair episode
Repairing some air hoses is just a matter of cutting off a section and using replacement fittings with a "barbed" connection. You can add a small hose clamp to the barbed fitting if you like. Rubber and polyurethane hoses can be repaired this way. If you have a hole in the middle of the hose you may be out of luck. There are barbed coupler fittings which can be used by cutting the house in half and connecting both ends to the barbed coupler. But, it's annoying to have the coupler in the middle of the hose, so I would just replace the whole hose if it comes to that.
I have a 1/2 inch impact that didn’t work for crap till I upgraded to 3/8 hose and fittings. My compressor is rated properly. Only 25 ft of hose. Not the best impact though , maybe a better gun would be ok with 1/4 ??
It really depends on what you're doing, the power of your impact wrench on it's own, and how much torque you need. If your impact wrench is marginal for the torque you need anyway, then hoses and fitting will definitely matter. If you're working on something that requires very high torque values, then they matter too. On the other hand, if you're using the impact wrench more for speed or convenience then the hoses and fitting may not be as important. I've used 1/4 hose on a wrench driving wheel lug nuts and been able to get satisfactory torque values (lug nuts are often overdriven anyway). That same set up, though, is not enough when I work on my truck suspension or truck bed hold down bolts. It's all a balance. If you are only doing automotive work and will likely need max torque on a frequent basis, then stick with the 3/8 hose.
So which will take the most beatings ? I need a 50ft for filling my semi tires, mainly in rough terrains
I have found that pure rubber hoses hold up far longer than other types. That's what I carry on my trailer and what I use in my shop. Plus, they are repairable if an end gets damaged.
Nice video! I am new to using an air compressor and bought a100 ft 3/8 hose. I purchased a 1/4 blow gun and tire inflation gun. I have used them and it seems to work, but it sounds like I should switch out for the 3/8 tools instead, right?
To be clear, the tools themselves are not going to be any different--it's the hoses and fittings. Some tools, though, such as a large impact driver, will require more air to run effectively. Therefore, a larger size hose and fittings will be appropriate for them. For what you describe, I think you're fine with what you have.
I’m looking at a 30 gallon compressor to run a 1/2” impact. Can’t find anything around hose size (1/4”,3/8”, or 1/2”) and then which fittings would be best. Was thinking 1/2” hose with 3/8” fittings, but not sure if this is the best setup?
You may be overthinking this. Unless you are working on tractor trailers or heavy equipment, there isn't a huge need for every available measure of torque. For common automotive work I often just grab a 1/4 inch hose if it happens to be closer. If you will only be doing automotive work in your driveway and no other type of work, then a 3/8 hose with whatever fittings you find locally is really fine. PVC will provide better abrasion resistance against the ground or sharp metal corners on vehicles. As important, try to minimize the distance between the compressor and the work and spend a little money on a decent impact wrench. Also, keep in mind that there will always be instances where an impact wrench is not the best choice and you'll still need to resort to a breaker bar and a pipe. Not every nut or bolt responds to impact force.
3/8 hose with Milton high flow fittings to maximize. More than enough for the weekend warrior auto projects. If you aren’t using them, try it dude. They’re awesome
Can a hose diameter be too big for a compressor? Just bought a 4scfm and don’t know whether to buy 1/4 or 3/8 hose? I would like to use a framer and impact very limited. Mostly use a brad and stapler. Will i be working the compressor too hard with a 3/8 for smaller tools or will I struggle to drive a framer and impact with a 1/4?
Think more about the demand of your tools than the hose diameter. Once a hose is attached and filled with air, it's a neutral component. What matters is how much air your tool needs to run. You need a compressor that can keep up with your tool, and a hose which can supply enough flow for your tool. For a single framing gun, brad nailer and a stapler you'll be just fine with a 1/4" hose. Certain impact drivers may run better with a larger capacity hose, but you only have a 4 SCFM compressor anyway, so that would be the limiting factor. Stay with a 1/4" hose and you'll be fine.
Great info as I am looking at getting a compressor for first time thanks
See my recent review of this compressor, then: th-cam.com/video/7TlScD8_qpU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again, was looking at that model or the larger 4 gallons
Great video. I'm looking already not the very first time. A quick question. Someone has given to me a hose which is quite thick and seems good compare to the small one I have. The problem is that it has a minor cut 30-40 cm alone the hose. It is somewhere in 1-2 meters from Female coupler which is not barbed. It looks like it is pressured by manufacturer like the one you're holding @11:43 in your left hand. I was thinking to cut 2m of that hose but was afraid that I can't make it well enough. How dangerous to have hose 20m hose cutted 0.5mm deep for 30-40cm? I was afraid to test to full 150PSI. Is it better to cut 2m and use a steel clamp? I have clamps like you showed earlier
I'll put your mind at ease about something. If your hose develops a sudden leak, it really won't cause any damage. It will make a lot of noise and maybe blow some dust around, but it isn't really dangerous. They sell barbed fittings so that you can repair a hose. Not all hose types can be repaired, but if your is made of rubber or another flexible material there is a good chance you can cut it, install a barbed fitting with a hose clamp, and be ready for work.
@@enduringcharm Thank you very much for your answer.
Euro couplings are interchangeable with various connectors such as PCL, NPT and hi flo connectors. That makes a lot of sense, what is the point of having lots of incompatible couplers/connectors?
I'm not sure what size male threaded quick disconnect I should pick up for my new Chicago Pneumatic CP860 1/4"die heavy-duty grinder. Can you help me out? Thanks.
You're overthinking this. It's almost certainly the common 1/4" thread size. Go to any Home Depot or Harbor Freight and pick out of the bin the male fitting style (industrial or automotive) of your choice.
Thanks John. I have a pancake compressor now and have been looking for something with a little more capacity for woodworking and finish work mostly. I think you should do a review of that 150psi Porter Cable you use. I'm looking at that one.
Mine are pretty old and I think the design has changed somewhat. When my pancake dies I'll likely get another. These older Porter Cable compressors have held up pretty well, but they do make a racket! They both are noisy and vibrate a lot compared to other compressors. Of course, all oil-less compressors tend to be more noisy. The larger one had a cooling fan break off twice, so I finally just left it off but it hasn't been a problem. If I get a new one I'll do a review.
Thank-you Sir. When you moving closer to Philly? lol. I need a good contractor such as yourself :)
I think I should be in PA! Jersey has a lot of issues these days, and the cost of living here doesn't seem to be offset by any kind of wonderfulness.
enduringcharm i hear ya. I too live in Jersey right across the bridge from Philly.
Great video!
So with a 6 gallon pancake compressor to mainly be used for airing up tires what size hose and fittings should be used? Is the air chuck the same size or does it need to be 1/4 " in diameter? I thought the compressor would come with the proper hose and fittings but I just opened mine and nothing but the compressor and an in struction booklet.
For that purpose you really don't need to worry--any size hose will be just fine. For the sake of weight savings and ease of storage, a 1/4 inch hose would be best, and you can buy one with fittings already installed. Get a 25 footer if the compressor is close to the car, or a 50 footer if you need the extra length to reach.
Great info
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
Can you put the high flow couplers directly on your compressor to change out the brass ones
On most compressors you can change fittings to your heart's content. They just unscrew and you put on whatever you like. Of course, the couplers can wear out, too, so you need to be able to install new ones.
Thank you sir for this information!
One other very important item is that the newer compressors are much quieter. I just got a Husky from Home Depot that is 80% quieter than the previous compressors. It has a 20-gallon tank, sits in the vertical position, and has the dual output connectors. I would never buy one of those noisy older-style air compressors of days past!
I did a recent review of a Harbor Freight "ultra quiet" compressor, and I agree they are wonderful.
Thanks for the info🖒
Awesome info! Do you have to treat any of the hoses with protectant to keep the hose from dry rotting or cracking?
No, not necessary. My rubber hoses are 15 years old and still in use. The ends by the fittings do crack, but I just clip a few inches off and re-insert the fitting. Certainly you can expect a decade of use out of any decent quality hose.
Thanks man!
Don't leave them exposed to sunlight or chemicals unnecessarily, that's how you keep them forever..
So for now and then home use the light hybrid should be best for me, on a ladder from time to time odds and ends etc.?
Also will use inside the house maybe?
It depends what you are doing with it--carpentry with nail guns? Roofing? Automotive work with impact wrenches? Filling tires? If you just want an all-around decent hose for occasional homeowner use, a 50 foot 1/4 inch rubber hose is a good choice. It's easy to coil, it's good in all temps, and it's not overly heavy.