I've had one of those cheap $3 Uno boards from Ali for years, and never thought of putting in a row of male headers. DOH! Thanks, that was quickly fixed. Another handy thing on that board is the connection points next to the ICSP header.
If you didn't buy boards like him with special form factors or whatnot, you worn encounter issues, usually. They all use the same atmega 328 micro controller. Therefore are feature complete and function 1:1 like an arduino The only three differences you may encounter: - build quality ( but those 3$ boards are still good) - they may use a different usb chip and you may need drivers for it. - The voltage regulator may not be as good as the authentic one - input voltage may not be as high or low, and may handle less power. Functionally tough they all work exactly same. It's the same uC.
IThe project I done that you did of the gearknob I used a cheap arduino uno board I had issues of it not loading the program on it and recently bought the proper arduino uno board and it is working flawlessly
@upir_upir I had no issues putting the program on it but when I went to use the arduino board with the program on it would 70% of three time not load it up properly
I like the tiny form factor of the "SS Micro". It has the USB A plug builtin. I've bought some $3 units, and one came without the bootloader programmed, and one came without the reset line connected. Neither were hard to find/fix but it was a bit of a surprise. ;D
Here's the thing, the uno is powerful enough for most simple tasks like running a tight loop repetitive process with a few program tasks The uno r3 is actually overkill for the task I use it for It controlls the flushing of my RODI recirculation filter and when to dump waste and even notifying me via serial about the parameters it has
Agree that for some tasks, UNO is overkill, but I like the simplicity of using Arduino IDE and the quick development. If you want something simpler, you might try ATTINY85, especially on the small PCB, I have tried those and they are great.
@@upir_upir my point was actually the opposite, the video is about it being UNDERPOWERED my point is that with some simple coding optimization juju it is actually overpowered for most tasks, the ram and PROM are painful limits but if you have a chainloader built into a seperate part and an external ram chip you could almost run a full retro DOS pc with the uno as the CPU
They are ok until you need something specific. I found the high output logic of the Rx and Tx are very low and I had to put a level shifter on the pin to get the full 5V. This problem doesn't exist on a genuine Nano, but you get what you pay for 😊
I bought a genuine one and that is how I found out that the clone had the fault. I still buy clones despite their problems because they are just so much cheaper.
I wish for RP2040 microcontroller boards in the same format as the arduino ones. The Arduino form factor is so easy to use. The RP2040 is way faster and cheaper.
You are welcome. I have actually found a few more boards like those above - wasn´t really aware how many UNO-sized boards there are. Good luck with your projects!
I've been using the Ruggeduino boards mostly because my projects require higher voltages. But they're tough, and hard to kill. Might makes take on industry-like applications.
@@upir_upir I have no issue with you making money, but here you are duping people and guiding them towards a purchase that you benefit from without letting them know what you are doing. No it's not cool.
@@enkidu9989 I have no benefit from people purchasing this board whatsoever. Plus, as mentioned in the video, I think that any of those Arduino UNO boards are good and it depends on the viewer what kind of features / price they prefer.
My fake Arduino Mega for some reason only can very weakly turn on the pins, and my fake Arduino Nano just somehow started only accepting code from a specific selection from Android version of Arduino IDE. And that's only sometimes.
Sure, you can buy any other board. The point is that I believe that the first board that you should get should be UNO. After that, go with whatever suits you the most.
@@upir_upir There is no reason to buy Uno as your first board. It is inconvenient. The usual set is a uselessly taking up space Uno + a breadboard, when you can just have Nano on this breadboard. You should buy Uno only for special shields, but you can use nano-shields instead uno-shields.
Can you do a video start to finish using an ESP32-2432S028R? They’re so cheap and widely available, I don’t fully grasp how to make my own programs for them yet. They are Arduino IDE compatible and like $10.
i would buy the version with the DIP µProcessor, because i use the Atmel 328 in many projects and it is much easyer for programming and testing, also as beginner if you break one you only need to replace the µProcessor not the whole board. Especial, it is the original Arduino Uno the DIP version makes more sense. what does the DIP-28 ATMEGA328P cost? 3€ or so? and if you buy more that one. Last time if bought 100 pieces for 100€ including shipping, so yeah if you're doing something with them and need a lot, buying the DIP package makes sense. it's my opinion about preferring the DIP rather than SMD. About performance for most projects the Atmel Tiny 25, 45 or 85 is more than enough power depending on how much ROM you need 25 = 2kb, 45 = 4kb and 45 = 8kb.
Agree about the DIP version, that´s always handy. Not in full agreement about the ATTINY. Once you add display, even the simple OLED, you need some memory, and even when I have made some projects with ATTINY 85 using the 128x64 OLED display, it´s just much easier to have enough RAM to store the framebuffer.
@@upir_upir i building robots and such things where i need a special function. like a simple high power stepper, which works independently and is controlled over i²c or plain uart shared bus with call commands. The required pins and functions sets which chip i need. so yeah if you doing image stuff you need more space as the tiny can provide even the mega 328 can be to small if you need more pins and you next option might be the mega2560.
Official Arduino UNO is like $30, the Robo UNO+ is even less, with the same quality and those extra components.. I think it´s a fair price, but it´s great that you have so many options to choose from.
Butbutbut... I don't need buttons and led's on my boards dude... When I build a project the board gets hidden deep inside a box so the buttons and LED's are useless. That LCD looks nice, but I don't want it on the top of my board because that's where my shields are. You know, like the $3 shield that gives you an LCD screen and some buttons, that you can put on your arduino during development and then remove and re-use when your arduino goes into it's project box... Double headers: nice but if I need that many connections it's likely that I am already using a breadboard so.... and also: shields do that during prototyping and guess what: a shield also does that for production. Instead, you should focus on that QWIIC connector, that's much more helpful than the rest. Why would I spend $20 extra on one set of headers, four buttons and a buzzer? I can get ESP32 boards that have an on-board screen for $10 and those boards are smaller and faster than the uno. Who is this product for?
Clearly this product is for me. I like to have a board for experiments where I don't need to use any additional breadboards, shields and wires and still have a few buttons, display and perhaps neopixels and buzzer. It just make creating projects much more convenient and faster. Obviously it´s not meant for putting into a box and using it for a product, but a learning tool for beginners.
Should you buy a Cheaper Arduino or Expensive Arduino? Ans: You shouldn't buy Arduino in 2024 at all. Move on to better platforms like RPI Pico (RP2040 & 2350) or ESP32 (S3 C3)
All the source files are on GitHub: github.com/upiir/arduino_uno_robo_plus
I got my first uno original to contribute. The all my boards came from the cheapest aliexpress source, never a problem.
I have the same experience, all my Arduino board were always working.
I've had one of those cheap $3 Uno boards from Ali for years, and never thought of putting in a row of male headers. DOH! Thanks, that was quickly fixed. Another handy thing on that board is the connection points next to the ICSP header.
Great to hear that this video was helpful with those male header pins! I agree that those extra connection points are great as well.
I have many different Arduino uno boards, but i have never searched for the difference.
thank you for the clarification
You are welcome, I´m glad it was helpful!
I still have loads of love for the UNO ! I also have a YUN ! great video, thanks!
That´s great to hear, I love UNOs as well! (as you can probably tell)
I already use $3 uno for a while now and I not found any problem yet 😁
Same here. Probably a good luck?
If you didn't buy boards like him with special form factors or whatnot, you worn encounter issues, usually.
They all use the same atmega 328 micro controller. Therefore are feature complete and function 1:1 like an arduino
The only three differences you may encounter:
- build quality ( but those 3$ boards are still good)
- they may use a different usb chip and you may need drivers for it.
- The voltage regulator may not be as good as the authentic one - input voltage may not be as high or low, and may handle less power.
Functionally tough they all work exactly same. It's the same uC.
IThe project I done that you did of the gearknob I used a cheap arduino uno board I had issues of it not loading the program on it and recently bought the proper arduino uno board and it is working flawlessly
That´s interesting. Where did you get that cheap board from?
@upir_upir I had no issues putting the program on it but when I went to use the arduino board with the program on it would 70% of three time not load it up properly
I like the tiny form factor of the "SS Micro". It has the USB A plug builtin. I've bought some $3 units, and one came without the bootloader programmed, and one came without the reset line connected. Neither were hard to find/fix but it was a bit of a surprise. ;D
Thank you for letting me know, I have ordered that board as well but haven´t tried it yet. Good to know that there might be some surprises..
Thankyou for making my Friday even better!
That´s great to hear, thank you for your nice comment!
LGT8F328P are very good, cheap, 32Mhz, 5v inputs. .and they offer a usb c connector too
Is that Arduino IDE compatible? I need to take a look.
Here's the thing, the uno is powerful enough for most simple tasks like running a tight loop repetitive process with a few program tasks
The uno r3 is actually overkill for the task I use it for
It controlls the flushing of my RODI recirculation filter and when to dump waste and even notifying me via serial about the parameters it has
Agree that for some tasks, UNO is overkill, but I like the simplicity of using Arduino IDE and the quick development. If you want something simpler, you might try ATTINY85, especially on the small PCB, I have tried those and they are great.
@@upir_upir my point was actually the opposite, the video is about it being UNDERPOWERED
my point is that with some simple coding optimization juju it is actually overpowered for most tasks, the ram and PROM are painful limits but if you have a chainloader built into a seperate part and an external ram chip you could almost run a full retro DOS pc with the uno as the CPU
They are ok until you need something specific. I found the high output logic of the Rx and Tx are very low and I had to put a level shifter on the pin to get the full 5V. This problem doesn't exist on a genuine Nano, but you get what you pay for 😊
That´s interesting. Would it be cheaper to get the original board in that case? I wasn´t seeing any of those issues yet, perhaps a good luck..
I bought a genuine one and that is how I found out that the clone had the fault. I still buy clones despite their problems because they are just so much cheaper.
im really wait u to upload new video, always interesting. new subscriber here!
Thank you, that´s great to hear!
I wish for RP2040 microcontroller boards in the same format as the arduino ones.
The Arduino form factor is so easy to use.
The RP2040 is way faster and cheaper.
There is a board like that - for example this one: github.com/red-scorp/RP2040-Eins
And here is another one: www.adafruit.com/product/5786
@@upir_upir Oh, wow. That's awesome. Thank you!
You are welcome. I have actually found a few more boards like those above - wasn´t really aware how many UNO-sized boards there are. Good luck with your projects!
I've been using the Ruggeduino boards mostly because my projects require higher voltages. But they're tough, and hard to kill. Might makes take on industry-like applications.
Good suggestion, I will definitely take a look at those board. Thank you!
so this is just an advert for that unreleased board. nice
It depends. Hopefully you can also learn a few new things.
Brother needs his money my guy
And he fucking deserves that money, for his work !
@@upir_upir I have no issue with you making money, but here you are duping people and guiding them towards a purchase that you benefit from without letting them know what you are doing. No it's not cool.
@@enkidu9989 I have no benefit from people purchasing this board whatsoever. Plus, as mentioned in the video, I think that any of those Arduino UNO boards are good and it depends on the viewer what kind of features / price they prefer.
Can you show us some stuff using a pinecil Ox64 or luckfox pico? Very cheap boards!
I haven´t seen those boards before, thank you for the recommendation! I will take a look.
My fake Arduino Mega for some reason only can very weakly turn on the pins, and my fake Arduino Nano just somehow started only accepting code from a specific selection from Android version of Arduino IDE. And that's only sometimes.
That´s interesting. I have a lot of cheap boards and so far not problem with those.
Or you can buy Nano and breadboard for more pins and next comfortable soldering.
Sure, you can buy any other board. The point is that I believe that the first board that you should get should be UNO. After that, go with whatever suits you the most.
@@upir_upir There is no reason to buy Uno as your first board. It is inconvenient. The usual set is a uselessly taking up space Uno + a breadboard, when you can just have Nano on this breadboard. You should buy Uno only for special shields, but you can use nano-shields instead uno-shields.
Can you do a video start to finish using an ESP32-2432S028R? They’re so cheap and widely available, I don’t fully grasp how to make my own programs for them yet. They are Arduino IDE compatible and like $10.
You mean those cheap yellow displays? I might try those, I mean, I like the price, but the quality of the screen is probably horrible.
@@upir_upir yes that’s the one. I’ve played with them the color rendition could be better, but they’re plenty bright.
@@upir_upir I want to try to make one of those “geochron” clocks with them, but Im not good enough at programming them yet.
The best arduino board is the one with the waifu silkscreened on it.
Haven´t seen it until this comment, and now I have it ordered :)
i would buy the version with the DIP µProcessor, because i use the Atmel 328 in many projects and it is much easyer for programming and testing, also as beginner if you break one you only need to replace the µProcessor not the whole board. Especial, it is the original Arduino Uno the DIP version makes more sense. what does the DIP-28 ATMEGA328P cost? 3€ or so? and if you buy more that one. Last time if bought 100 pieces for 100€ including shipping, so yeah if you're doing something with them and need a lot, buying the DIP package makes sense.
it's my opinion about preferring the DIP rather than SMD.
About performance for most projects the Atmel Tiny 25, 45 or 85 is more than enough power depending on how much ROM you need 25 = 2kb, 45 = 4kb and 45 = 8kb.
Agree about the DIP version, that´s always handy. Not in full agreement about the ATTINY. Once you add display, even the simple OLED, you need some memory, and even when I have made some projects with ATTINY 85 using the 128x64 OLED display, it´s just much easier to have enough RAM to store the framebuffer.
@@upir_upir i building robots and such things where i need a special function.
like a simple high power stepper, which works independently and is controlled over i²c or plain uart shared bus with call commands. The required pins and functions sets which chip i need.
so yeah if you doing image stuff you need more space as the tiny can provide even the mega 328 can be to small if you need more pins and you next option might be the mega2560.
Where did you find that huge oled
On AliExpress, I have updated links to that display into the description of the video.
Nice, but you didn't answer the question or say how much the robo board is?
I didn´t really know what would be the price at the time of recording, but it should be on the webpage, I believe it would be around 25 dollars.
@upir_upir that's not a bad price considering all the extras on the board. Thanks for the review!
4 buttons, 3 LEDs and an I²C connector is not worth 27$.
Official Arduino UNO is like $30, the Robo UNO+ is even less, with the same quality and those extra components.. I think it´s a fair price, but it´s great that you have so many options to choose from.
can I become a millionaire with this?
Not quite sure how.
10 for 3$ all day everyday
I think it´s great that you have so many choices, not only price-wise, but also functionality-wise.
Or 5 Raspberry Pi Pico 2 👍
Butbutbut... I don't need buttons and led's on my boards dude...
When I build a project the board gets hidden deep inside a box so the buttons and LED's are useless.
That LCD looks nice, but I don't want it on the top of my board because that's where my shields are. You know, like the $3 shield that gives you an LCD screen and some buttons, that you can put on your arduino during development and then remove and re-use when your arduino goes into it's project box...
Double headers: nice but if I need that many connections it's likely that I am already using a breadboard so.... and also: shields do that during prototyping and guess what: a shield also does that for production. Instead, you should focus on that QWIIC connector, that's much more helpful than the rest.
Why would I spend $20 extra on one set of headers, four buttons and a buzzer? I can get ESP32 boards that have an on-board screen for $10 and those boards are smaller and faster than the uno.
Who is this product for?
Clearly this product is for me. I like to have a board for experiments where I don't need to use any additional breadboards, shields and wires and still have a few buttons, display and perhaps neopixels and buzzer. It just make creating projects much more convenient and faster. Obviously it´s not meant for putting into a box and using it for a product, but a learning tool for beginners.
Should you buy a Cheaper Arduino or Expensive Arduino?
Ans: You shouldn't buy Arduino in 2024 at all. Move on to better platforms like RPI Pico (RP2040 & 2350) or ESP32 (S3 C3)
I still think that for the very first board, and getting into microcontroller world, going with UNO is a better option before moving to ESP32 or RPI.
Easy, a lot of libraries, good for learning until you get experience. Also I think you've missed STM32 from your list of platforms.
the heavy voice treatment sounds so irritating (keep the original voice, no need for deeeeeep vocie gah gah gah)
I probably need to change some settings on my mic, as I´m not doing any postprocessing of the audio.