TUFF TORQ Hydrostatic Fluid Change K46 T40 John Deere
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2021
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In this video I demonstrate how to perform a routine oil change on a hydrostatic transmission. I was doing this on a 2006 John Deere 145 with approx 900 hours on it, that looses power after running for a few minutes and can not go up hills. This change did not fix the problem for me. I would recommend doing this service every 100-200 hours maximum to prevent premature wear to the internals. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I like you haven’t added music and cartoons to your video. Thanks for straight forward info and no bs.
Just what i was looking for. Removing the axle seems the right thing to do. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video!
And at least you left the pulley on there to fall in the oil since you didn't show us kicking the fan with the circlip LOL
Just did this procedure on my L120. Mine would barely move after a short time mowing and forget reverse completely. Well, after draining the old fluid and replacing it with Castrol 5w50, it did make an improvement, but I haven’t completely mowed my 3 acres of grass yet, so the jury is out as to what will happen when it really heats up. It’s definitely better though and I’m happy about that. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be, so I would definitely recommend doing it to anyone who is having issues with their K46 transmission. Sure beats the cost of a replacement unit, or worse yet, having to junk the whole tractor. Thanks to you and all the others that have posted similar videos!
Glad I could help! I do have a video on my rebuilding my unit since I was not that lucky. It costs around $400 to get the rebuild kit and takes a couple hours to do. Hopefully you won't need to though! Cheers
Replace the pulley and you will have more traction with the belt.
If you remove all stuff from on top before tipping it over they won't fall in oil, also those harbor freight snap ring pliers are junk, then you put two different oils in their really.
Well, I mowed my 3 acres with it for about a year and it seamed to work ok, but it did get kind of weak after mowing for a couple of hours. I’ve since moved out of state and gave the tractor to my son, who has a much smaller yard that is pretty much all level ground. So far it’s still working great for him, so in my case this was a success and saved me a ton of work and money. Thanks again for the great how to video!
Thanks I a lot, this is exactly what i needed ....!
😄
Thanks for the information!
It's possible to access the fill plug with by either removing a rear tire, or removing the battery and tray in the rear and taking off the fan for access from the rear. Using a fluid transfer pump, pump out as much as possible from the fill port, and then pumping or funneling in fresh fluid. Easy peasy. You can removed well over 2 quarts doing this, so over 80% fresh fluid each change.
Do this along with an oil change after 5 hours, and then once a year after, and you will never have a problem for double digit years, as fresh fluid is always in the rotation. Amsoil hydrostatic transmission oil was recommended to me because it lasts extremely long and works to -39*C. This is what the manufacturers don't want you to do, so we must do it.
I did this and could only get about 1/2 a quart out using a pump. What's the secret?
I wonder as well, perhaps there is a thinner tube or something and to get further down in there??
I'm thinking that's the same tranny as on my 2006, 155C, 48" w/ 701hrs. bought new. It has been used to pull TSC grass vac a little, not babied much on the farm but did blow grass/dirt off tranny so it cools better. Still works decent, no leaks but I'll do just as you did shortly. Probably mix of synthetic oil and LUCAS cause that really does extend life and slows leaks. You did an excellent job but I always blow or powerwash first to keep dirt out. Always easier to put fluid into a smaller container and add a little at a time. Great video, Loved it and the humor. Guess I'll look for overhaul video now. Just bought a very nice 2012, Z920A from original homeowner that I do know but still want to use the 155C. Love older J.D.
Thank you. I wish John Deere included a drain plug and easy to access fill hole in their K46 hydrostatic transmission.
Tuff Torq makes a drainplug kit for it.
Or just drill and thread your own.
Might as well wash or change its filter while its opened up.
That would be nice for sure!
What consists of removing the unit as an assembly like you did leaving the wheels on?
I have the same little yellow funnel!
Had transmission drive belt replaced and every since it's been leaking transmission fluid. It seems to be pushing it out of the reservoir when it's running
Just did this on a Craftsman. It was easy.
Cast aluminum housing is very strong and durable
So I'm swapping out the plastic transmission on my d105 I'm swapping in the t40 off a parts mower my friend had sitting around we got it fired up and made sure it worked before I bothered taking it off but I want to change the oil in it before putting it on my mower I notice you recommend the 5w50 for both the t40 and k46 but the tuff torq website recommends the 10w30 and now I'm wondering which I should use
Tuff torq recommends using their fluid now.www.amazon.com/Tuff-Torq-Hydrostatic-Transmission-5W50-187Q0899000/dp/B086VLN7JP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1SWSYLCGV8BG1&keywords=tuff+tech+premium+hydrostatic+drive+fluid&qid=1674546900&sprefix=tuff+tech+fluid%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-2 I have had no problems using the 5w 50 after I rebuilt the trans in this video. From what I understand, they used the thinner oil originally and that should be replaced with the thicker oil after about 50 or so hours.
Nice video. How many more hours did you get from this transaxle after the fluid change?
It didn't fix my lack of power, ended up rebuilding it and it works great now but the rebuild kit was $400. There is a video on my channel for that
You should have done the drain plug upgrade while you had it apart.
They could've made a drain plug and a fill plug that you could access without taking it all off.
The casting has two bosses that can be drilled and tapped to install two 8mm drain plugs. Some K46's did come with drain plugs. It depended on manufacturer.
@tszymk77 that’s John Deere for you. They specifically made the hydro builder do that so it wasn’t customer serviceable and so they get more business to replace the trans when it goes bad. John Deere is the equivalent of customer rapists like apple
Freaking Genius
QUESTION: Why remove the rear end in the first place- cant you take the lower cover off while still in and remove the fluid and replace the filter that way?We did it with auto transmissions all the time, so lift the rear of the mower up, put a pan under it, take the bolts out and remove the cover- then replace the filter and replace the pan- put fluid in through the vent on top????Thats the way autos are serviced...why NOT?
There are no drain plugs on this trans. There are provisions for them but I guess Deere didn't want them installed. The only way to empty is to turn it upside down.
At what interval do you suggest doing this service ?
I've been told that after the first 50 hours to remove the initial break in material, then every 200 hours after that
I would avoid getting too much carb cleaner on the blacktop.
is it not drainplugs under. On my Husqvarna there are two.
some manufacturers do not want drain plugs, but there are provisions to put them in and you can buy the kit. John Deere doesn't want them
I could be wrong, but from what I have seen some manufacturers put the battery under the seat instead of the gas tank. If you happen be a lucky person with the battery under the seat, you can just pull out the battery and support bracket and have pretty good access to the top of the transmission for refilling. These types can make good use of having the drain plugs underneath - like Husqvarna for instance. My old Troy Bilt had the same setup, although it used a variable speed pulley system. Unfortunately Deere puts the gas tank under the seat, so there really is no good access to the top of the transmission. I guess that may be why they decided to pass on the drain plugs. Plus it saves them a few bucks per mower.
Serait il possible d'avoir ces explication en Français une fois pour tout !!
How many hours did your transmission have on it?
The tractor showed over 900 hours, I assume it was original
You young punk! I can't believe I never thought about mounting the wheels back on it so I can flip it around and all easily ....LOL!
😆 😂
I actually had trouble getting one off so just put the other one back on lol
It is best to split the case to drain and clean. There is an additional magnet on the gear side and a 3" round screen filter. It's not difficult.
I personally would never split the case for routine maintenance. You would then have to reseal it and risk leaks. I have rebuilt this unit since this video (there is another video on it) since the fluid change wasn't enough. Definitely would be a more thorough cleaning and certainly could be done!
@@sweatequity4252 Service manual recommends it. You are missing another magnet on the hydraulic side and the actual filter unit.
so my 130 isn't movin rite..longer runs worse gets..whines loudly..won't pull banks any more..
do u think this will help?
I'm not trying to jump in front of Sweat Equity with this comment, as this is 'his' video but my L-130 is doing the same. Mine is 17 years old, never had the hydrostatic oil changed so it's about time. I'm planning on posting a video while I break it down to change the internal filter also, but 'yes', I'd say yours is due.
@@PilotViewProductions
took it apart & let it drain cpl wks ago ..put back together last wkend..plan on tryin out this wkend..
one thing i noticed tho is the drive belt is very loose..dunno if normal..not certain how it was before disassemble..only that it worked & appeared in good enough shape.
Sounds like it will need a rebuild, unfortunately.
Try replacing the pulley. They wear just enough that the mower doesn’t want to move. Might as well get a new belt. World of difference.
You overfilled it. The oil level is supposed to be 22-25mm (7/8") from the top edge.
Hi - When pouring oil into the transaxle, the fill tube has to openings - one directs oil to the pump side and the other directs oil to the gear side. If the recommended amount of oil is put into the transaxle, what prevents the oil from one compartment from flowing out of its opening into the opening for the other compartment when the tractor is on a step hill? I don’t think there’s a check valve for either of the two compartments. It’s my understanding the oil level is supposed to be 3/4” from the top edge to allow room for the oil to expand when it gets hot while using the tractor. Thanks.
@@billmolzon7723 Good question. Maybe the overhaul video explains it. Has to be a smaller hole to allow oil to lube both sides. Also not sure but there may be better transmissions that bolt right in. I do agree with this guy to change the oil only and not split the cases and hopefully extend the life at this point. Could have been just low on old oil. Regardless you have to keep in mind the age and hours and do ya want to spend a bunch of money and time on a mower that has exceeded the normal life?
lol I love how you pretend you do this for a living !! ROOKIE
Nope don't pretend to. I am a master toyota tech professionally.