Tips for Installing Bed Rail Hardware
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- The hardware used to join bed rails to head boards and foot boards needs to be create solid assembly, and it has to be easy to take apart. Designer, John Doyle, walks through the process for installing flush-mounted hardware for top-notch results.
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This is absolutely the BEST and definitive how to video for installing this type of hardware. Thank you.
I'm glad you showed how to do the faces of the legs AND the ends of the rails. I've seen videos like this before and they conveniently skip the hard stuff. Kudos.
Glad it was helpful!
Agreed. Rockler's installation video on their webpage for this product shows a guy taking his "rails" to the router table and somehow standing them on end to mortise the end grain. Not safe, or even possible.
The dowel trick was great too.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, with a good clear concise explanation. The Dowel trick is pure genius, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
was hesitant to try this type of rail faster but you made it so much simpler. thank you!
Several useful tips on what I'd have thought would be a simple project. One of your best. Thanks very much and thumbs up to crush a troll.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks.
this will be way more convenient to assemle and disassemble the bed frame. I didn't want to deal with doing those 3 joint cuts cause I may screw up. thanks you for the tip in installing these metal rail brackets
Very cool and loving the dowel trick.
Thanks!
This is so helpful! Thank you!!
I found the pattern bit to be a real problem. They are typically 1/2 inch and the mortise is 5/8 inch. It's far too easy to cut into the edge of the template. I found the better choice to be to use a 3/4 inch template guide and a 1/2 inch straight bit. With this you need to make the template 1/8 inch larger all around 1/8 = (3/4 - 1/2)/2. Then there is no worry about bumping into the template with the router. Also you can withdraw the router without needing to shut it down completely. The template guide set is also about 1/2 the price of that pattern bit and a couple of extra bearings to give it the support it needs.
Great job John!
Thanks!
very nice thanks for the tips
The template shown in the video fits the bracket at its max width, not its minimum width, ignoring the 11-degree bevel on the bevel that you would otherwise manually have to chisel out to accommodate. I have created a template for the minimum width, so I will have to chisel. I think your way is probably a lot more practical, I'm not sure that bevel adds a lot of stability.
Realizing that I have 24 of these mortises to do, I decided to ignore the bevel and use your approach. Thanks for publishing this video
Great tip using the dowel. Couldn't you just use a drill for relief of the nubs on the hook plate?
That's what I was thinking. Hand drill with a forstner bit would be way easier imho.
Drilling out the relief for the nubs would actually be a much quicker way, but I get carried away with the router sometimes :)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine I've done this with a drill. It depends on the size of those nubs. On mine they were less than 5/16th so they were easy with a 5/16th brad point bit.
2:09 "Just look at it until it's perfectly flush." I've been using that method for years, but still I don't quite seem to have the hang of it. No matter how long I stare, the SOB still won't flush-up.
Seriously, though, just like you, I just built my son a bed. And, just like you, I shied away from this style of hardware. If I had seen this video a few months ago, my son's bed would be of better quality. Hopefully I don't forget about this by the time I go to build another bed.
LOL... You really have to stare it down with some side eye to get it to flush up properly. :)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine This is why I love you guys - all these little bits of insight. I've been giving it full-on full frontal stinkeye this whole time. I'll try the more subtle side eye approach next time I'm in the workshop. Thanks for the tip!.
I like the dowel. Why didn't you use a dowel for the top screw also
The dowel should be long enough that all 3 screws will go through it. You could put a dowel in from the top and bottom, I just didn't want it to show from the top.
We have custom made bed unfortunately it turned out to be short in length and width.is there anyway to get the required length if not the width.any suggestions will be appreciated.thanks
Is there any play when it snaps in? Which turns into squeaking.
Hesitant on buying this.
There is a bit of play when installed perfectly flush. Recessing the hardware ~1/32" is the best move. Take the time to set you router depth by testing with scrap and you'll get it nice an tight.
Was the dowel really necessary? I'm worried about introducing a new place to screw up. Any tip for getting the 5 in hole in the right spot?
You can use 3 dowels, one for each screw. Going though the thickness of the rail instead of the full width.
Any link for recommended bed rail hardware?
This is what we use: www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size