When choosing the start time of the timelapse sequence, the Nikon version allows the useful option to set the start to a specific time. ie: international space station flyover that can be predicted with precise timing. Maybe Olympus could add that in a software update.
Hi Robin... I like your Tips for Olympus... I changed from Sony a 6000 to OMD EM 10 II and i'm impressed of so many features... Much to learn but your tips are always helpful.thx and greetings from Wilhelmshaven Germany👏✌😃
I use that for slow composits that I prepare with a presentation program, so I did the beautyful magic sunrise at the Dhaulagiri Mountain in Nepal. Just to watch the colours chainging.
Thank you for the valuable information 😀 , what is the best setting for plants or seed to harvest shooting, and also how to do a long-term time lapse without stopping to change batteries , i mean can you plug the camera to a power source , thank you again
My ATG OM-1rII Kim X (modified by ATG with IR, battery pack & TTLIR/camera shutter remote) specs over IR lens filter: * Hand hold shooting. Tripod needed only for 1/2" or longer * Shooting with flash in sports & weddings when flash is not allowed * Shooting in ATG's TTLIR in HSS * Sees in total darkness with AF * Clients always buy IR over boring B&W /or color My staff & I tested the ATG OM-1rII Kim X (modified kit) in Death Valley, Oymyakon and Vostok. We also had some ATG DSC-RX10 IR Kim X (modified kit): my staff preferred this because it's light with 2.73 (8.8 to 73.2mm/F2.8) FYI: the sensor on Sony is 8.8mm so don't be fooled to think it's 25.5mm sensor. It's very tiny compared to 50% sensor of O/P. But nowhere are you going to get Asian Zeiss 70-200/2.8, no dust on sensor, HSS with all flashes & sees in total darkness!
It's available to us plebs with only E-M10Ⅲs as well, but it's in the camera-2 settings, in only P/A/S/M modes. I think this means we're stuck wearing out the mechanical shutter, because I believe the only way to get electronic shutter is in AP mode. Maybe in a future firmware?
Hello Robin, I'm curious to know if your camera has the same issue as mine. Page 176 of the my OM-D E-M1 mark iii user manual says the 'REC VIEW' option of the 'Setup menu' accepts values of "[0.3sec] - [20sec], [Off] and [Auto q]. On my camera, the only two possible values are OFF and AUTO... How does one set [0.3sec] - [20sec]? Anyway, I set it to OFF. But when I turn on the intervalometer ('Intrvl. Sh.' in 'Sooting menu 1') the camera displays the image after EVERY shot! {This can result in Battery drain, light leaking during astrophotography, etc.} How does one make the camera understand that OFF means OFF regardless of intervallometer? Cheers! Gil
Hi Robin. Thanks for doing what you do. I wanted to try my hand at some timelapse videos with my em1iii and your video and tips came in very handy. Keep the great content coming along!!!
Thanks for the good overview and tips Robin! Unfortunately I can't get the silent shutter with time lapse to work on the EM10 MkIIIs. Is this simply not possible or is there a way to get it working? I would really like to preserve the mechanical shutter longer
Oh, that sounds so complicated. I'll come back to this one day. However I'd love some tips on the timer settings for recording yourself on video. Thanks Robin.
Not really, once you have set it one time, all you have to do is just press the shutter button once and everything is automated from beginning to the end.
Hello Robin, I created my first TimeLaps video with my OMD EM5 Mark 2. thanks to you. Unfortunately I cannot find it in the SD card by plugging the camera into the computer, do you know why? knowing I can see it by reading it in the camera
Dear Sir. Very nice video. I am very keen to buy that camera (MKiii) however there is one question I can not find answer anywhere: How many shots (timelapse mode) you can make on full battery? 300+ like for standard photo modes or more? Thank you
hey robin thanks for the video. I made a nice time lapse of a sunrise but when I want to get the timelapse video I can’t get it out of the camera. I only can get all the photos even tho I can watch the timelapse in the camera. what did I do wrong?
Excellent video as always, Robin. Any chance of an in depth look at focus bracketing (not stacking), especially how the focus differential setting is impacted by lens focal length and is affected by initial focus distance.
The focus step size is also affected by aperture. There's been lots of discussion about this on multiple forums. It seems Olympus is unwilling to share the algorithm they use to determine the step size. Robin, if you have any influence or inside contacts at Olympus...there are a LOT of people who would love to know how the Focus Differential is used to determine the actual step sizes. Thanks!
@@robinwong That's a shame. Such a useful feature, yet there is a dearth of information on how to use it effectively. Seems like a lost opportunity for Olympus to gain a competitive edge in this area.
I really hope Olympus will change it's menu's, and adds a drive mode dial like my G85 has, selecting and setting a timelapse there is much easier, also I can set it to 9999 images. Question: what settings would you choose if you want to make a really long timelapse lasting the whole night, taking a picture every 30 seconds?
Nice and useful video. I just want to add two things. 1. If camera is set to a mode other than M, and if the light condition changes during the shooting (because of passing clouds for example) then there may be a kind of flickering effect in the final video, or you'll loose the mood (imagine some sunset scene that doesn't go darker and redder enough by the time), because the camera tries to expose each frame in a same average and it changes the aperture and/or shutter speed. So, M mode gives more smooth videos. On the other hand, if you choose M and if the light condition changes more than 2-3 stops during the shoot then there may be some areas that totally washed out or black with no details. Sometimes you want it, sometimes not. 2. And, if you want to capture the blurry movement feeling of the moving objects, you may want to choose a lower shutter speed by setting ISO and/or aperture accordingly. ND filter may be useful for that too.
I'd still prefer to leave the exposure to the camera, as some of my scenes require big changes of exposure. For example, the shots inside the tunnel going into the broad daylight from inside the train. Manual won't get you good results.
This video did not help me in that the Mark III I have does not have the menu you displayed. I went to the camera2 menu and I did see a time lapse item listed, but when I tried to scroll down to it, I couldn't. It's like Olympus doesn't want this feature found.
I wonder if the effect could be improved by using ND filters and longer shutter speeds (to give moving objects a bit of smoothness). I think this can be seen in the underground train timelapse, and it might look nice for traffic too. Thanks for sharing, I didn't know about this feature!
Using ND filters for a non changing light works well, but not for the train moving from inside the tunnel out into the broad daylight. The exposure change is too drastic.
@@robinwong What I meant is that you had longer (and varying) exposures in these tunnel shots due to less light and got therefor much smoother transitions - no need for ND filters there. But in full daylight, it might be a necessity. Changing lighting conditions might be a use case for shutter priority mode and changing apertures instead of shutter speeds (with MFT this changing aperture should be not nearly as visible as with, say full frame ;-)). I'll keep all this in mind and give it a try eventually.
Thanks. Time lapse is such an interesting area and it's great that it is so much easier to do today. Especially the e-shutter is so much important. If you shoot 30s of 30fps time lapse with a little bit overhead, you have 1000 exposures. You just need to shoot a few city-scapes or clouds moving in the mountains every week or two and you get you camera the wear out in a short time. I'm doing this from time to time on the GH5 and I strongly recommend to keep at least the full sized JPEG'S to create videos in post. It's very easy to add a pan move or a little bit of smooth zoom to the time lapse. You can even follow slow moving objects in post. If you produce in 1080p you have a lot of room to move the frame. In addition, it might be interesting to just do another video showing what kind of magic you can do with a 10 stop ND-filter and 180° shutter angle in a time lapse.
Ideally, you have to shoot totally in manual so that the exposure and focus don't vary. Another thing, try to select an exposure time that is about one half of the interval time between shots, this will produce a smoother video. Lastly, it is better not to actuate the movie option in the camera and generate the timelapse movie using software because you can have total control on the parameters. A very good software that you can use in Timelapse. The free version permits to use 400 pictures. There is also a function in Lightroom to generate a timelapse video but it is limited. Have fun. Good tutorial Robin, thanks.
I disagree with shooting in full manual. For example the shot of the train inside the tunnel going out into the light. I don't see how the camera metering cannot handle that.
@@robinwong I should mention that I was referring to making a timelapse of a sunset. To keep the real lighting level, the camera should be at a fixed exposure level and not trying to adapt and keep the light level constant. In one I made, it goes completely to black after some time.
Nice video, I always use a predefined white balance and iso because putting it in auto can give variations in photo’s when sun and clouds are in the timelaps. Also the 1 second interval is very short. For landscape I usually use 3 seconds.
It was just a demo, showing where to activate the settings. If you plan to shoot much longer duration then using longer intervals is a better option. I don't have all day and I don't plan to spend more than one day doing this video.
Well done! Nice to watch your videos, always learning something new. Some little detail, which otherwise I had to learn through set of mistakes, for example after changing settings, make sure option is 'ON' ;) Thank you, Robin
I shoot a lot of long exposure and time-lapse with my EM1MII and EPL7 cameras, and this video offered a couple of tips that I did not know, thank you! Can you also confirm that you did the fade and zoom in the time lapse videos in post-processing? Which software are you using please?
Subscribed, I own a very good Olympus OM-D E-M10 mark II and all the tips I can get to get an even greater experience is welcome. As a traveler I find the OM-D E-M10 a very good and compact camera, add in tree lenses and you are set to shoot almost all you need fitting in your pocket :)
I used aperture priority. I was shooting at locations with changing light (LRT tunnel then into the open) so I let the camera control the exposure. If I know the lighting will not change (inside a room) then I will use manual.
The cameras are great, but man, their menu system is infuriating. I've been playing around with the more advanced features and had the timelapse menu up yesterday. But then today when I tried to access it again spent 10 minutes going through every single menu (I thought), but I missed the "press right arrow again after you turn it on" step.
It upsets me that it can't be used when on mains power as last year I set up my camera for an awesome time lapse in South Africa, outside my lodge, and the battery (that was fully charged) died after several hours.
Am I the only one very disappointed with the available frame rates, like 5fps in 4K, really Olympus ?! :( Please improve that in a firmware update ! ;)
Is there any other camera that does in camera 4K time lapse auto movie with those said higher frame rates? Built in intervalometer and auto merge into 4K movie?
@@robinwong yes, at least the Panasonic G9 : th-cam.com/video/IFUe6OWmlq8/w-d-xo.html Maybe it is a "processor" issue as the E-M1ii is getting older, but my E-M5iii also is limited at 5fps in 4K. I really hope Oly is going to improve that in the E-M1iii and maybe theu will communicate about these improvements in 2 days ! ;)
@@UneBoleeDAir_Photo-Tech I'm sorry but stop motion is NOT time lapse. With Olympus it is real time lapse, meaning you get to keep all the original shots at full RAW file. The Panasonic is just a video feature that does not allow you to keep the original image files. Having the original image files are important - ask any time lapse shooter. Again, the way Panasonic executed that is for stop motion. Stop motion is not time lapse.
@@robinwong with the G9 you definitively keep the image files too (RAW + JPEG if you have set the camera this way). As I show it in the video, it's only after taking the photos that the G9 aks you if you want to "Create video now", if you don't you have only the image files, if you do so the camera is busy for a while creating the video and then you have both the video AND the image files ! ;) I am not 100% but I think it was exactly the same on my Panasonic G90 (I resell it to buy the E-M5iii for the AF performance, so I can't confirm this one).
@@UneBoleeDAir_Photo-Tech In fact the older G6 model is the same and keeps individual image files before making a Timelapse video if required. I have not tried this with raw files but it certainly works with jpg and with electronic shutter. It can even send the camera to sleep and wake to take the individual exposures and back to sleep if the interval between shots is more than a couple or three seconds.
![[Live] : ONE 169 วันนี้!! "อนาโตลี vs อูมาร์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3YZVWuFJg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the amazing tips. That bit about mechanical parts is something worth remembering.
When choosing the start time of the timelapse sequence, the Nikon version allows the useful option to set the start to a specific time. ie: international space station flyover that can be predicted with precise timing. Maybe Olympus could add that in a software update.
Thanks Robin. I really appreciate your videos as I get more and more acquainted with my new em1 mark ii
No worries, I share as much as I can here.
Well done Mr Wong. This matches my experience, but your pro tips are valuable. Much appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi Robin... I like your Tips for Olympus... I changed from Sony a 6000 to OMD EM 10 II and i'm impressed of so many features... Much to learn but your tips are always helpful.thx and greetings from Wilhelmshaven Germany👏✌😃
Thank you Robin as always...great!!!!...cheers from Chile
Nice video asa,ways Robin. Clear and useful.
Thanks!
Thanks i didnt know that i could do that with an OMD mode 😊
Thank you for another wonderful video Robin, as always.
Thanks! More to come surely.
I use that for slow composits that I prepare with a presentation program, so I did the beautyful magic sunrise at the Dhaulagiri Mountain in Nepal. Just to watch the colours chainging.
As always very detail explanations and tutorial. I really enjoy watching this video. Good jobs, Robin. 🖒😃🖒
Thanks, glad you found it useful
Very nice tutorial. Your memory card looks very good too 😀
Of course, as long as it works.
Thank you for the valuable information 😀 , what is the best setting for plants or seed to harvest shooting, and also how to do a long-term time lapse without stopping to change batteries , i mean can you plug the camera to a power source , thank you again
My ATG OM-1rII Kim X (modified by ATG with IR, battery pack & TTLIR/camera shutter remote) specs over IR lens filter:
* Hand hold shooting. Tripod needed only for 1/2" or longer
* Shooting with flash in sports & weddings when flash is not allowed
* Shooting in ATG's TTLIR in HSS
* Sees in total darkness with AF
* Clients always buy IR over boring B&W /or color
My staff & I tested the ATG OM-1rII Kim X (modified kit) in Death Valley, Oymyakon and Vostok.
We also had some ATG DSC-RX10 IR Kim X (modified kit): my staff preferred this because it's light with 2.73 (8.8 to 73.2mm/F2.8)
FYI: the sensor on Sony is 8.8mm so don't be fooled to think it's 25.5mm sensor. It's very tiny compared to 50% sensor of O/P.
But nowhere are you going to get Asian Zeiss 70-200/2.8, no dust on sensor, HSS with all flashes & sees in total darkness!
Binge watching your vids at the moment, excellent video *THUMBSUP*
It's available to us plebs with only E-M10Ⅲs as well, but it's in the camera-2 settings, in only P/A/S/M modes. I think this means we're stuck wearing out the mechanical shutter, because I believe the only way to get electronic shutter is in AP mode. Maybe in a future firmware?
So the EM10 mk II is better in this respect, as you can use silent shutter in PASM modes ?
Yet another great tutorial! Thank you Robin ;)
Thanks!
thanks! I bout the camera just for the timelasp, I was very upset when I couldn’t find a feature.
Very interested Robin, I'm going to try this on the sky while at home.
Hello Robin,
I'm curious to know if your camera has the same issue as mine.
Page 176 of the my OM-D E-M1 mark iii user manual says the 'REC VIEW' option of the 'Setup menu' accepts values of "[0.3sec] - [20sec], [Off] and [Auto q]. On my camera, the only two possible values are OFF and AUTO... How does one set [0.3sec] - [20sec]?
Anyway, I set it to OFF. But when I turn on the intervalometer ('Intrvl. Sh.' in 'Sooting menu 1') the camera displays the image after EVERY shot! {This can result in Battery drain, light leaking during astrophotography, etc.}
How does one make the camera understand that OFF means OFF regardless of intervallometer?
Cheers!
Gil
Thanks, this was helpful! ❤
Thank you Sir for this amazing and helpful Tips ❤️
Hi Robin. Thanks for doing what you do. I wanted to try my hand at some timelapse videos with my em1iii and your video and tips came in very handy. Keep the great content coming along!!!
Thanks for the good overview and tips Robin! Unfortunately I can't get the silent shutter with time lapse to work on the EM10 MkIIIs. Is this simply not possible or is there a way to get it working? I would really like to preserve the mechanical shutter longer
Thanks for the video, sadly one cannot change exposure settings when the time lapse is in progress.
a great informative video Robin , thanks
Oh, that sounds so complicated. I'll come back to this one day. However I'd love some tips on the timer settings for recording yourself on video. Thanks Robin.
Not really, once you have set it one time, all you have to do is just press the shutter button once and everything is automated from beginning to the end.
Okay I'll give it a go and let you know! Thanks for the little push to get out of my comfort zone!
enjoyed the video Robin , thank you
Thanks for tips. Jack from Poland
Great video 😉🌱
wow. Might try time lapse astrophotography. Didn't know DSLMs also have a mechanical shutter. Why?
What is DSLM? Haha
Hi Robin, I have a question how to set the electronic shutter for timelapse on the om-d e-m10 mark iii? Thanks.
You really helped me! Thank you!
there is not Time lapse mode in olympus OMD E-M10 right ? cause ı did not fount that mode.
tanks you 👍
Hello Robin, I created my first TimeLaps video with my OMD EM5 Mark 2. thanks to you.
Unfortunately I cannot find it in the SD card by plugging the camera into the computer, do you know why? knowing I can see it by reading it in the camera
Dear Sir.
Very nice video. I am very keen to buy that camera (MKiii) however there is one question I can not find answer anywhere:
How many shots (timelapse mode) you can make on full battery? 300+ like for standard photo modes or more?
Thank you
Great video, thanks Robin. I would like to take a timelapse over 18 hours. I am concerned about battery, can I change it during a timelapse (and how)?
What about RAW for Postproduktion?
hey robin thanks for the video. I made a nice time lapse of a sunrise but when I want to get the timelapse video I can’t get it out of the camera. I only can get all the photos even tho I can watch the timelapse in the camera. what did I do wrong?
where do you buy the wrist strap?
Online store in Malaysia, don't think it is available elsewhere
Good stuff , gotta do some timelapse in town soon , hopefully can catchup when u get back 👍
Time lapse is super time consuming, took me almost all day (was Thursday) to do this.
Robin Wong got to do shorter ones I guess 😅
Excellent video as always, Robin. Any chance of an in depth look at focus bracketing (not stacking), especially how the focus differential setting is impacted by lens focal length and is affected by initial focus distance.
The focus step size is also affected by aperture. There's been lots of discussion about this on multiple forums. It seems Olympus is unwilling to share the algorithm they use to determine the step size. Robin, if you have any influence or inside contacts at Olympus...there are a LOT of people who would love to know how the Focus Differential is used to determine the actual step sizes. Thanks!
I don't have enough experience in using the focus bracketing to comment.
@@robinwong That's a shame. Such a useful feature, yet there is a dearth of information on how to use it effectively. Seems like a lost opportunity for Olympus to gain a competitive edge in this area.
Great tutorial Robin. Do you know whether this process can be controlled using OI.SHARE?
Hi Robin, is it possible to combine timelapse intervall shooting with focus bracketing/stacking?
thank you
I really hope Olympus will change it's menu's, and adds a drive mode dial like my G85 has, selecting and setting a timelapse there is much easier, also I can set it to 9999 images.
Question: what settings would you choose if you want to make a really long timelapse lasting the whole night, taking a picture every 30 seconds?
Nice and useful video. I just want to add two things.
1. If camera is set to a mode other than M, and if the light condition changes during the shooting (because of passing clouds for example) then there may be a kind of flickering effect in the final video, or you'll loose the mood (imagine some sunset scene that doesn't go darker and redder enough by the time), because the camera tries to expose each frame in a same average and it changes the aperture and/or shutter speed. So, M mode gives more smooth videos. On the other hand, if you choose M and if the light condition changes more than 2-3 stops during the shoot then there may be some areas that totally washed out or black with no details. Sometimes you want it, sometimes not.
2. And, if you want to capture the blurry movement feeling of the moving objects, you may want to choose a lower shutter speed by setting ISO and/or aperture accordingly. ND filter may be useful for that too.
I'd still prefer to leave the exposure to the camera, as some of my scenes require big changes of exposure. For example, the shots inside the tunnel going into the broad daylight from inside the train. Manual won't get you good results.
Robin, Greetings from Ecuador! I-m not able to activate the time lapse with my new em10 mk iv. As we say in spanish: gimme a hand please!
This video did not help me in that the Mark III I have does not have the menu you displayed. I went to the camera2 menu and I did see a time lapse item listed, but when I tried to scroll down to it, I couldn't. It's like Olympus doesn't want this feature found.
I wonder if the effect could be improved by using ND filters and longer shutter speeds (to give moving objects a bit of smoothness). I think this can be seen in the underground train timelapse, and it might look nice for traffic too. Thanks for sharing, I didn't know about this feature!
Using ND filters for a non changing light works well, but not for the train moving from inside the tunnel out into the broad daylight. The exposure change is too drastic.
@@robinwong What I meant is that you had longer (and varying) exposures in these tunnel shots due to less light and got therefor much smoother transitions - no need for ND filters there. But in full daylight, it might be a necessity. Changing lighting conditions might be a use case for shutter priority mode and changing apertures instead of shutter speeds (with MFT this changing aperture should be not nearly as visible as with, say full frame ;-)). I'll keep all this in mind and give it a try eventually.
Nice one Robin. Hope all is good with you :)
AP mode needed to surface this. Shocked how buried this is!
How do you get a smooth zoom in your time-lapse videos?
I did it in post-editing, just added one click transition effect.
Thanks. Time lapse is such an interesting area and it's great that it is so much easier to do today. Especially the e-shutter is so much important. If you shoot 30s of 30fps time lapse with a little bit overhead, you have 1000 exposures. You just need to shoot a few city-scapes or clouds moving in the mountains every week or two and you get you camera the wear out in a short time.
I'm doing this from time to time on the GH5 and I strongly recommend to keep at least the full sized JPEG'S to create videos in post. It's very easy to add a pan move or a little bit of smooth zoom to the time lapse. You can even follow slow moving objects in post. If you produce in 1080p you have a lot of room to move the frame.
In addition, it might be interesting to just do another video showing what kind of magic you can do with a 10 stop ND-filter and 180° shutter angle in a time lapse.
I have mentioned a trick - use electronic shutter/silent shutter. That will effectively preserve your camera's shutter life.
Ideally, you have to shoot totally in manual so that the exposure and focus don't vary. Another thing, try to select an exposure time that is about one half of the interval time between shots, this will produce a smoother video. Lastly, it is better not to actuate the movie option in the camera and generate the timelapse movie using software because you can have total control on the parameters. A very good software that you can use in Timelapse. The free version permits to use 400 pictures. There is also a function in Lightroom to generate a timelapse video but it is limited. Have fun. Good tutorial Robin, thanks.
I disagree with shooting in full manual. For example the shot of the train inside the tunnel going out into the light. I don't see how the camera metering cannot handle that.
@@robinwong I should mention that I was referring to making a timelapse of a sunset. To keep the real lighting level, the camera should be at a fixed exposure level and not trying to adapt and keep the light level constant. In one I made, it goes completely to black after some time.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad I could share
Timelapse is possible with m5 mark iii?
How are you zooming out on the examples? Is this post-processing or are you periodically zooming out manually, say, every 25 frames?
It was in post-production
Hi! Awesome tutorial! 👍🏻✨ how do you zoom out? In post?
All youre videos are 🔝🔝🔝✨ thank you!
Yes I did that in post.
Nice video, I always use a predefined white balance and iso because putting it in auto can give variations in photo’s when sun and clouds are in the timelaps. Also the 1 second interval is very short. For landscape I usually use 3 seconds.
It was just a demo, showing where to activate the settings. If you plan to shoot much longer duration then using longer intervals is a better option. I don't have all day and I don't plan to spend more than one day doing this video.
Well done! Nice to watch your videos, always learning something new. Some little detail, which otherwise I had to learn through set of mistakes, for example after changing settings, make sure option is 'ON' ;) Thank you, Robin
Thanks, I do my best to share as much as I can.
I shoot a lot of long exposure and time-lapse with my EM1MII and EPL7 cameras, and this video offered a couple of tips that I did not know, thank you! Can you also confirm that you did the fade and zoom in the time lapse videos in post-processing? Which software are you using please?
Ah yes the slight zoom effect and fade were added in post. I am using DaVinci Resolve 16.
Subscribed, I own a very good Olympus OM-D E-M10 mark II and all the tips I can get to get an even greater experience is welcome. As a traveler I find the OM-D E-M10 a very good and compact camera, add in tree lenses and you are set to shoot almost all you need fitting in your pocket :)
Robin, do we set the settings of the exposure manually? Or can just use P mode?
I used aperture priority. I was shooting at locations with changing light (LRT tunnel then into the open) so I let the camera control the exposure. If I know the lighting will not change (inside a room) then I will use manual.
The cameras are great, but man, their menu system is infuriating.
I've been playing around with the more advanced features and had the timelapse menu up yesterday. But then today when I tried to access it again spent 10 minutes going through every single menu (I thought), but I missed the "press right arrow again after you turn it on" step.
AUPA!
Thanks for this vídeo!
LIKE and greetings from Spain!!!
Thanks for the like, keep shooting on!
👍👍👍
It upsets me that it can't be used when on mains power as last year I set up my camera for an awesome time lapse in South Africa, outside my lodge, and the battery (that was fully charged) died after several hours.
The M1-MkIII can be powered from an external source, including mains power.
it's more on photos laps not a video time laps instead
Ninja cats beware!
Am I the only one very disappointed with the available frame rates, like 5fps in 4K, really Olympus ?! :(
Please improve that in a firmware update ! ;)
Is there any other camera that does in camera 4K time lapse auto movie with those said higher frame rates? Built in intervalometer and auto merge into 4K movie?
@@robinwong yes, at least the Panasonic G9 : th-cam.com/video/IFUe6OWmlq8/w-d-xo.html
Maybe it is a "processor" issue as the E-M1ii is getting older, but my E-M5iii also is limited at 5fps in 4K. I really hope Oly is going to improve that in the E-M1iii and maybe theu will communicate about these improvements in 2 days ! ;)
@@UneBoleeDAir_Photo-Tech I'm sorry but stop motion is NOT time lapse. With Olympus it is real time lapse, meaning you get to keep all the original shots at full RAW file. The Panasonic is just a video feature that does not allow you to keep the original image files.
Having the original image files are important - ask any time lapse shooter.
Again, the way Panasonic executed that is for stop motion. Stop motion is not time lapse.
@@robinwong with the G9 you definitively keep the image files too (RAW + JPEG if you have set the camera this way). As I show it in the video, it's only after taking the photos that the G9 aks you if you want to "Create video now", if you don't you have only the image files, if you do so the camera is busy for a while creating the video and then you have both the video AND the image files ! ;)
I am not 100% but I think it was exactly the same on my Panasonic G90 (I resell it to buy the E-M5iii for the AF performance, so I can't confirm this one).
@@UneBoleeDAir_Photo-Tech
In fact the older G6 model is the same and keeps individual image files before making a Timelapse video if required. I have not tried this with raw files but it certainly works with jpg and with electronic shutter. It can even send the camera to sleep and wake to take the individual exposures and back to sleep if the interval between shots is more than a couple or three seconds.