I just did it last week and what amazes me is how in the world you managed to film(i n a stunning quality)the whole process in details in SUCH TINY space? mind boggling !!! GREAT CHANNEL
This guy is very good at explaing this i have adhd im special and i got it im in the middle of trying to fix my truck and found this video love it thanks man
Did mine a couple years ago. I went ahead and replaced the fittings and the lines while I was there. Make sure to get the good fittings, the Dorman ones leak.
Best bet is to run the old inverted flares. Yeh, they are a beast to tighten up/assemble, but after my trans cooler lines almost fell out of the transmission with this style in this video(due mostly to age/corrosion but flares would not have behaved that way) and the way the heater core hose to intake quick connect broke off(while changing out the 'plastic intake gaskets' bwahahahaah to Felpro superseals that will not dump gallons of water into the crankcase), no thanks on these sub-quality fittings, not to mention these quick connects are like double the price of the old school better living/longevity flare fittings. But yes, the GM's are still better that old rebuilt dodge in at least commonality lets you reverse engineer most things to the old school longer lasting designs.
Wish there was more videos like this Very educational I appreciate it keeped up the good work look at forward to seeing More of them educational and informative
Are the cooler lines necessary on a K series 1500? I've seen several videos of truck owners deleting the lines and installing a filter adapter that allows the filter to go on vertically.
Personally, I'm not a fan of making any powertrain modifications from the as-built configuration of a vehicle. I like keeping that all vanilla stock, with no use of inferior aftermarket sourced parts. But these oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler, are primarily there for extra cooling capacity when towing or hauling. So if you use the truck more like a car or SUV and do neither, the lines could be redundant.
@@DrShock , I pray you do not use the plastic 'factory vanilla' intake gaskets though or that wonderful dexcool that turns acidic and causes cooling system havoc such as eating those intake gaskets even faster without frequent flush/changes. BTW, excellent video here, sincerely appreciate the education on this. Helped me immensely so far. My truck was rigged before I purchased (someone basically cut all these lines and pipe plugged everything, so would have preferred they kept to vanilla stock in my case. Thinking of upping this truck to the chocolate fudge deluxe from vanilla by running compression/flares with copper lines that will not corrode as fast, running a used but perfect condition factory GM auxiliary cooler in front of radiator, unfortunately missing the factory vanilla auxiliary cooler mounts, so will be much time spent fabricating such mounts
Again Because of you my gmt400 lives....what's the best way to get the oil pan off on a k1500 I'm going to do this while I'm here. Thanks for your time
I'm in the process of changing the torque converter seal I figured I would change the rear main while I have the tranny out. I ended up trying to do the the top seal for rear main housing without pulling the oil pan and dropped the old gasket in the pan probably for the better as it looks like it's leaking the trucks 4x4 and I'm wondering if it'll be simpler if i lift the motor instead of rolling the axle I'm doing this on the ground and I'm not sure as most information available is done on a lift. I do have a motor hoist but im dreading pulling the exhaust pipes as the truck has 226k and they're pretty rusty
These GM washers are impregnated with a form of neoprene to effect the correct seal. I would expect any non-OEM part substitutions to just leak prematurely.
@@DrShock , how about some thread sealant? I'm assuming perhaps the oil will not allow a complete cure of the silicone, thus future leakage while thinking this out loud.
My 98 Chevy Tahoe k1500 has a leak around this sucker and I can not for the life of me find a new rubber gasket that goes on top do you know where I can find one?
There are search links in the video description. I know the gasket is still showing available there. But the self sealing bolts have recently been discontinued by GM.
The link in the description is the part number for the OBS trucks this video covers. It includes some earlier supersession numbers as well. Any others would not be for this particular engine and model year range.
I had to go through the wheel well to get the top clip out who ever did it previously had the open end facing towards the ground very frustrating also I used a magnet to make sure I didn't loose it in my driveway.
If you both are referring to the fittings screwed into the oil filter housing itself, that wouldn't be the service manual procedure for this job. The plastic retaining ring will have to come off to expose the clip, or the line will bind up with the fitting preventing it from unscrewing. The lines themselves can be bound up to the inside of the fitting as well. Lastly you will be fighting clearance problems as well attempting to remove the fitting while still connected to the line. I would suggest it's a more difficult approach than just removing the retaining clips and unplugging the lines first. But, as long as the binding and clearance problems are addressed first, it should be possible. If you do go this route, the fittings themselves can become another source of leaks at the housing threads so will need a thread sealant or replacement.
The bolt and _captured_ sealing washer came as an integrated piece, not separate. It does appear GM has recently discontinued this part, which unfortunately is going to be happening more and more across all of the old body style (OBS) GMT400 parts due to obsolescence. This part might show up at the search link I provided in the video description as NOS (new old stock) so worth saving as a search, but afaik there is no aftermarket replacement for it.
The 7.4L uses a very different oil filter adapter design than what I'm showing here. It is more similar to the 6.5L diesel one than the small block V8s. I believe it just has an o-ring seal, no gasket kit, GM 12555554 - ebay.us/tylJSh
@@DrShock Thanks Doc!l I knew mine was substantially different but could not find the GM part#. You seem to be a Wizard at getting the correct GM Part# and sources. Thanks, Again! I ordered it off ebay with the number you provided.
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I just did it last week and what amazes me is how in the world you managed to film(i n a stunning quality)the whole process in details in SUCH TINY space? mind boggling !!! GREAT CHANNEL
This guy is very good at explaing this i have adhd im special and i got it im in the middle of trying to fix my truck and found this video love it thanks man
where can you find the bolts now?
Best explained cooler line install I’ve seen yet...with the clips, great view, great explanation. Thank you Dr. Shock.
Great job and thanks for explaining perfectly
Did mine a couple years ago. I went ahead and replaced the fittings and the lines while I was there. Make sure to get the good fittings, the Dorman ones leak.
Best bet is to run the old inverted flares. Yeh, they are a beast to tighten up/assemble, but after my trans cooler lines almost fell out of the transmission with this style in this video(due mostly to age/corrosion but flares would not have behaved that way) and the way the heater core hose to intake quick connect broke off(while changing out the 'plastic intake gaskets' bwahahahaah to Felpro superseals that will not dump gallons of water into the crankcase), no thanks on these sub-quality fittings, not to mention these quick connects are like double the price of the old school better living/longevity flare fittings. But yes, the GM's are still better that old rebuilt dodge in at least commonality lets you reverse engineer most things to the old school longer lasting designs.
Thank you I was just assembling tools to do this job and seen all my parts are dorman I'm going to the dealer instead
Great video! Thanks for putting the torque specs 👍
Dr. S, thanks again for posting this. Very informative / helpful indeed.
Wish there was more videos like this Very educational I appreciate it keeped up the good work look at forward to seeing More of them educational and informative
Are the cooler lines necessary on a K series 1500? I've seen several videos of truck owners deleting the lines and installing a filter adapter that allows the filter to go on vertically.
Personally, I'm not a fan of making any powertrain modifications from the as-built configuration of a vehicle. I like keeping that all vanilla stock, with no use of inferior aftermarket sourced parts.
But these oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler, are primarily there for extra cooling capacity when towing or hauling. So if you use the truck more like a car or SUV and do neither, the lines could be redundant.
@@DrShock Understood. Thank you for your feedback.
@@DrShock , I pray you do not use the plastic 'factory vanilla' intake gaskets though or that wonderful dexcool that turns acidic and causes cooling system havoc such as eating those intake gaskets even faster without frequent flush/changes. BTW, excellent video here, sincerely appreciate the education on this. Helped me immensely so far. My truck was rigged before I purchased (someone basically cut all these lines and pipe plugged everything, so would have preferred they kept to vanilla stock in my case. Thinking of upping this truck to the chocolate fudge deluxe from vanilla by running compression/flares with copper lines that will not corrode as fast, running a used but perfect condition factory GM auxiliary cooler in front of radiator, unfortunately missing the factory vanilla auxiliary cooler mounts, so will be much time spent fabricating such mounts
Best explained cooler line install Thank you Dr. Shock.
DrShock
Reply
Again Because of you my gmt400 lives....what's the best way to get the oil pan off on a k1500 I'm going to do this while I'm here. Thanks for your time
I'm in the process of changing the torque converter seal I figured I would change the rear main while I have the tranny out. I ended up trying to do the the top seal for rear main housing without pulling the oil pan and dropped the old gasket in the pan probably for the better as it looks like it's leaking the trucks 4x4 and I'm wondering if it'll be simpler if i lift the motor instead of rolling the axle I'm doing this on the ground and I'm not sure as most information available is done on a lift. I do have a motor hoist but im dreading pulling the exhaust pipes as the truck has 226k and they're pretty rusty
Outstanding!
Great videos, subscribed and thanks! Well done
Great video
Thanks. Great job.
Would it be possible to just re use the bolts and use some crush washers instead?
These GM washers are impregnated with a form of neoprene to effect the correct seal. I would expect any non-OEM part substitutions to just leak prematurely.
@@DrShock Fair enough, and thank you for the video! I have a 99 Suburban I'm slowly chasing all the gremlins out of!
@@DrShock , how about some thread sealant? I'm assuming perhaps the oil will not allow a complete cure of the silicone, thus future leakage while thinking this out loud.
Thank you!
If your lines aren't leaking you can pull the adapter away to change the O ring and gasket without undoing the lines.
You a master
My 98 Chevy Tahoe k1500 has a leak around this sucker and I can not for the life of me find a new rubber gasket that goes on top do you know where I can find one?
There are search links in the video description. I know the gasket is still showing available there. But the self sealing bolts have recently been discontinued by GM.
great work Dr Shock, would you happen to know the GM part number for the adapter?
It's discontinued for several years now, but there is a part number link in the video description. They show up as NOS from time to time.
is this ebay link the same thing but with different part number; looks like it would fit@@DrShock
The link in the description is the part number for the OBS trucks this video covers. It includes some earlier supersession numbers as well. Any others would not be for this particular engine and model year range.
I had to go through the wheel well to get the top clip out who ever did it previously had the open end facing towards the ground very frustrating also I used a magnet to make sure I didn't loose it in my driveway.
Do you have to drain all the oil out before replacing the seal?
It’s a lot less mess if you do.
When removing the lines, could i just unscrew them instead of messing with the clips?
Did you ever get an answer for this?
If you both are referring to the fittings screwed into the oil filter housing itself, that wouldn't be the service manual procedure for this job. The plastic retaining ring will have to come off to expose the clip, or the line will bind up with the fitting preventing it from unscrewing. The lines themselves can be bound up to the inside of the fitting as well. Lastly you will be fighting clearance problems as well attempting to remove the fitting while still connected to the line. I would suggest it's a more difficult approach than just removing the retaining clips and unplugging the lines first. But, as long as the binding and clearance problems are addressed first, it should be possible. If you do go this route, the fittings themselves can become another source of leaks at the housing threads so will need a thread sealant or replacement.
Tried to find the washers for the bolts they are discontinued everywhere where did u get them?
The bolt and _captured_ sealing washer came as an integrated piece, not separate. It does appear GM has recently discontinued this part, which unfortunately is going to be happening more and more across all of the old body style (OBS) GMT400 parts due to obsolescence.
This part might show up at the search link I provided in the video description as NOS (new old stock) so worth saving as a search, but afaik there is no aftermarket replacement for it.
Alrighty thanks
A pre-spray with silicone spray could be helpful in some situations.
Doc, do you know the part number for the 1996 K2500 7.4L gas engine?
The 7.4L uses a very different oil filter adapter design than what I'm showing here. It is more similar to the 6.5L diesel one than the small block V8s. I believe it just has an o-ring seal, no gasket kit, GM 12555554 - ebay.us/tylJSh
@@DrShock Thanks Doc!l I knew mine was substantially different but could not find the GM part#. You seem to be a Wizard at getting the correct GM Part# and sources. Thanks, Again! I ordered it off ebay with the number you provided.
What oil filter is that
This being a K truck, for the model years this video covers it would be the ACDelco PF52.
Done it not fun especially when your blind
Outstanding!