As you mention it in your video, generally speaking I find the bushing layout better than other brands (Showa), but I find both have advantages and disadvantages: Öhlins pros: 1. It's makes tube easier removal as you don't have to knock it (bushing to bushing) to take them apart. Sometimes this damages the bushing edges. 2. It makes for much less sentitive to lower triple overtorquing as the upper bushing is not passing through a "shrinked" section. Öhlins cons: 1. It requires specials tool to remove and instal these bushings. 2. Mechanical leverage is fixed to the fully extended position and lower than on other designs (although i've never heard anyone complaining for this. Showa (and other, almost all other design) pros: 4. Leverage is position sensitive in these forks. When the fork is fully compressed the upper bushing is in it furthest position from the lower one and the fork becomes more rigid than the Öhlins design. They are so rigid than Diavels tend to bend their frame on a frontal collision leaving the fork undamaged. It is also true that due to its design, Diavel frames are particularly sensitive to this kind of impacts... so maybe a more "flexible" Öhlins fork would be better for this!!! Showa cons: 1. Need to bang the tube to take out the seal (easier if the end is heated) and can resut in bushings damage. 2. Require a VERY high quality inner finish of the tube as the upper bush slides in it. This increases manufacturing cost. Besides this, I've seen some of these forks completely ruined by people who have anodized them just to have a fancy öhlins gold color. Buy Öhlins instead!!!! 3. Makes them extremely sensitive to lower triple overtorquing. The tolerance between the upper bushing and the tube is very small and the diameter "shrinkage" make a real friction problem and upsets suspension work.
Interesting! I love it that you understand the leverage issues. Do you think the split bushing on the end of the shaft (Showa) has more play than the solid bushings for Ohlins? Also the problem of the bushing (Showa) going through the triple clamp area is super interesting. Sometimes I have to hand bleed shocks in my fork vice which grabs the tube instead of clamping the end eye. I will have a problem bleeding where the shaft doesn't really want to move and realize that the tightness of the vice is not allowing the piston to move freely. Doesn't take much. One of the other Ohlins advantages is that both bushings are running on steel. I also think that it is harder to put the shapes in the outer tube (Ohlins) that stops the lower bushing in the tube than to hone the inside a given diameter and finish as in the Showa. I can see by your comments that you are the real deal!! I learn something every day. Thanks!!!
I couldn’t really tell if there is any difference in play between both designs. It might be the case as they workin a different way, but it’s not noticeable by hand.
As a Ducati independent techinician I service lots of Öhlins R&T forks. What I love about these is that they've been conceived to be fully serviced and modified. I use a different technique to take apart cartridges. I find it a bit easier and time saving as it avoids removal of the top castelated end of the cartridge. I remove the wire clip in the shaft that holds the spacer over the rubber stop and then these two parts. In this way the rebound valve end can reach the compression valve edge and with a light tap on the shaft it pops out. Then the shaft with the rebound valve go out through the lower end of the cartridge. The only down side to this is that you have to be very careful as sometimes the fork has been services before and someone has held the upper edge of the shaft to undo the cap counternut from the end of the thread (clearly because they stuck it there upon cap removal). In this case, I usually find there markings and scratchs from some totally inadequate pliers. This an damage the cartridge top bushing when the shaft end goes through. Other than that is a safe and simple method. What I really love is your tube and stanchion cleaning tool. Simple and very effective, specially for tube bottoms! Great idea that I'll adopt on my next fork service. Thank you!!!
Thanks you for your videos. I’m a civil engineer who swapped to bikes professionaly 6 years ago. Mostly I’ve learnt all I know from searching information, books, videos, tutorials, etc. And I do everything else apart from suspension so, I have some knowledge in this particular area but I’m light years behind your expertise in the subject. I find your videos really educational for me as I find some tiny details and differences to the way you work and the way I do, so when I find something useful (your tube cleaning tool, the tube removal tool in the Panigale fork video) I really love it as attention to detail is what makes the difference between a nice job and a professional job. As you say, nor I’m perfect, neither I know everything, so having the chance to see how other professionals work keep me highly motivated to keep on improving! And, oh, by the way, happy christmas to you and your beloved ones! :)
Superb! Really good content! I was trying to fix similiar fork with a open cartridge, the problem was with a seal at the top of the cartridge. When I removed rod seal and the bush i found there a stack of shims for rebound bleed. I was surprised as normally this part of the cartridge should be sealed completely. Even more there was a 4 holes on the side of a cartridge tube allowing fluid to bleed to the main tube. I'm trying to remove now all that stack and re-valve everything soo the rebound is only on the mid-speed valve. Thank you.
I love the tube cleaner, great idea! Once again thanks for sharing the details are very helpful, even posting the torque specs is fantastic. I try to convince my wife regularly the fact that the bikes are modified, i can follow instructions.... sometimes haha.
Hi Mark. Thanks again for the comment! I think proper torquing is more important to make sure the parts or not overtightened. I have never received a damper with anything not tight enough. Mostly ones with parts way too tight.
Great video, as usual, thank you! I'm just starting out, so could you please elaborate on why you don't want the adjusters too much closed? (said around at 40:00) Edit: I fount an answer under your 'Inside the Ohlins TTX 40' video: "(...)You have to be careful on any single tube shock with a reservoir compression adjuster. If you start closing down the rebound or compression independent of one another the shock gets out of balance and bad things happen. (...)" So this can be a problem, if they are not-so-well valved and/or pressure balance is not checked?
HI Ben. Pressure balancing is time consuming and difficult exercise that is rarely if ever done. If a single tube shock is done correctly it is as good as any shock. One of the advantages of Ohlins TTX technology is that you don't have to worry about pressure balancing or cavitation. It is actually adjustable in a wide range. I wrote a thing on shock adjustability that applies to single tube shocks that I will try to attach. file:///Users/douglasbrenner/Desktop/SHOCK%20ADJUSTABILITY.pdf
Hi Douglas! first of all thank you for taking your valuable time and show us what your profession is all about! I own a Kawasaki ZX10R 2011 model that I only use at trackdays, Advanced level (for what it's worth) and happened to have bought a new ttx36 shock and a supposedly unused only open box private sale cartridge kit Ohlins FGR which is gas pressurized, I only did it because it was half the price and hoped to notice night and day difference but to be frank it doesn't give me any more confidence than the original set that came with the bike, I suppose I'm not fast enough, experienced, etc. Could it be that the forks need servicing? How often will I have to have them serviced? Do these cost alot more to service compared to a non-gas set of forks?? I understand these are state of the art racing items, but I'm tempted to just stick the oem set with full service and revalve because I'll be none the wiser and I can service them myself... Please enlighten me! All the best!
Hi Richard. It's hard to tell what is going on. Did they seem unused? Were the cartridges still in the blue plastic wrappers? Are they the correct part# for your bike? Do you have the correct springs for your weight?Who installed the FGR? That should be a great combo. Do you have the correct springs for your weight??
@@theohlinsguy4649 Yes correct part no., they were completely dry and came with some blue or yellow (can't recall) tags, I installed them myself (had to make some tools). And I bought separate ohlins springs calculated for my weight fully suited. Would the nitrogen escape after two years of use?? (10 trackdays roughly) How much would less than 6bar (initial pressure) hinder the performance of the forks? thx
Hi Doug, thanks for these superb posts ! Did you ever get around to making the post concerning replacing the inner and outer bushes on the 43mm forks ? Best regards from GB.
@@theohlinsguy4649Hi Doug, could you please explain how much clearance or play one should be able to feel in the sliding components, to assess wear in the bushes. Many thanks.
@@nigelmitchell351 Hi Nigel. I don't really know. I always replace bushings on shocks when I service them and almost never do on Ohlins forks. I just look at the top bushing and if I don't see any wear I just leave them. The bushings in Ohlins fork are so far apart that I don't believe they get much stress. They need special tools to replace them so if they look perfect I don't replace them. You can do a wiggle test to see if you have any play. I usually can't detect any play. On other brands of forks (when I put Ohlins inserts in them) where one of the bushings is a split one on the small tube I usually just replace them and the top bushing. The split one on the small tube has to come off to put on new seals and some of the seal kits come with bushings anyway. The one on the big tube is easily removed.
It is just a line that goes from my vacuum filler to my fork bench with plastic line. I have a male collet fitting near the vacuum machine and I just plug into it just like I would a shock. Quite simple. Email me at theohlinsguy@gmail.com and ill take some pictures for you
Hi. No, I haven't made a video on that. The problem is you need the proper tools for removal and installation on Ohlins forks. If you don't use them you run the risk of not setting the lower bushing correctly and also damaging the bushing while trying to install it.
When I look up that number it shows a conventional fork, meaning the big part is down. I have never done any of these. I looked to see if I could find a manual for them but none were available. I wish I could help more. Try Ohlins USA 838 692-4525 and see if they have any info.
Thrilled to have found this. Ill probably call in to ask you this but any idea if i can use mercedes benz g wagon ohlin shocks in the new defender to replace broken land rover shocks?
Hi Eric. Thanks for the nice comment. I don't really know. They are making shocks now for jeeps but i don't know what is available. I would call Ohlins USA and see what they know!
Great video, thanks! Is the fork a FG 8851 or FG 8896? I have a 2007 Ducati 1098S and the Ducati manual says I have FG315 forks but everything I find indicates that is the fork on the 999 (Ohlins website indicates it is the FG314 on the 999). My forks have FG511 (the model number of the kit you installed) stamped on them, but the Ohlins website indicates FGRT815 or FGRT211, but I can't find any information on the FG511 on the Ohlins website. Is it because it was OEM forks?
Hi Harry. I have been one for so long I don't remember. Probably the criterion has changed. Call Ohlins USA (if you are in the US) and they can fill you in on the latest. Be prepared to spend a bunch on tools!!
@@theohlinsguy4649 thank you for the info! Being financially challenged is my greatest stumbling block for acquiring more knowledge. I know, utube and google and all that but it all is unstructured which is required to obtain proper training. Anyways, thank you again for the videos and the reply! Be blessed!
@@theohlinsguy4649 Thank you so much for your video. I watched fork seal replacement video for very similar forks (new R&T 43 models on the 1098S) and the guy was adamant that the flat side faced the fork seal. When I disassembled mine it was obvious the curved side was up. Thanks for confirming this.
As you mention it in your video, generally speaking I find the bushing layout better than other brands (Showa), but I find both have advantages and disadvantages:
Öhlins pros:
1. It's makes tube easier removal as you don't have to knock it (bushing to bushing) to take them apart. Sometimes this damages the bushing edges.
2. It makes for much less sentitive to lower triple overtorquing as the upper bushing is not passing through a "shrinked" section.
Öhlins cons:
1. It requires specials tool to remove and instal these bushings.
2. Mechanical leverage is fixed to the fully extended position and lower than on other designs (although i've never heard anyone complaining for this.
Showa (and other, almost all other design) pros:
4. Leverage is position sensitive in these forks. When the fork is fully compressed the upper bushing is in it furthest position from the lower one and the fork becomes more rigid than the Öhlins design. They are so rigid than Diavels tend to bend their frame on a frontal collision leaving the fork undamaged. It is also true that due to its design, Diavel frames are particularly sensitive to this kind of impacts... so maybe a more "flexible" Öhlins fork would be better for this!!!
Showa cons:
1. Need to bang the tube to take out the seal (easier if the end is heated) and can resut in bushings damage.
2. Require a VERY high quality inner finish of the tube as the upper bush slides in it. This increases manufacturing cost. Besides this, I've seen some of these forks completely ruined by people who have anodized them just to have a fancy öhlins gold color. Buy Öhlins instead!!!!
3. Makes them extremely sensitive to lower triple overtorquing. The tolerance between the upper bushing and the tube is very small and the diameter "shrinkage" make a real friction problem and upsets suspension work.
Interesting! I love it that you understand the leverage issues. Do you think the split bushing on the end of the shaft (Showa) has more play than the solid bushings for Ohlins?
Also the problem of the bushing (Showa) going through the triple clamp area is super interesting. Sometimes I have to hand bleed shocks in my fork vice which grabs the tube instead of clamping the end eye. I will have a problem bleeding where the shaft doesn't really want to move and realize that the tightness of the vice is not allowing the piston to move freely. Doesn't take much.
One of the other Ohlins advantages is that both bushings are running on steel. I also think that it is harder to put the shapes in the outer tube (Ohlins) that stops the lower bushing in the tube than to hone the inside a given diameter and finish as in the Showa. I can see by your comments that you are the real deal!! I learn something every day. Thanks!!!
I couldn’t really tell if there is any difference in play between both designs. It might be the case as they workin a different way, but it’s not noticeable by hand.
As a Ducati independent techinician I service lots of Öhlins R&T forks. What I love about these is that they've been conceived to be fully serviced and modified.
I use a different technique to take apart cartridges. I find it a bit easier and time saving as it avoids removal of the top castelated end of the cartridge. I remove the wire clip in the shaft that holds the spacer over the rubber stop and then these two parts. In this way the rebound valve end can reach the compression valve edge and with a light tap on the shaft it pops out. Then the shaft with the rebound valve go out through the lower end of the cartridge.
The only down side to this is that you have to be very careful as sometimes the fork has been services before and someone has held the upper edge of the shaft to undo the cap counternut from the end of the thread (clearly because they stuck it there upon cap removal). In this case, I usually find there markings and scratchs from some totally inadequate pliers. This an damage the cartridge top bushing when the shaft end goes through. Other than that is a safe and simple method.
What I really love is your tube and stanchion cleaning tool. Simple and very effective, specially for tube bottoms! Great idea that I'll adopt on my next fork service. Thank you!!!
Thanks Eduardo! Always nice to see how professionals do it!
Thanks you for your videos. I’m a civil engineer who swapped to bikes professionaly 6 years ago. Mostly I’ve learnt all I know from searching information, books, videos, tutorials, etc. And I do everything else apart from suspension so, I have some knowledge in this particular area but I’m light years behind your expertise in the subject.
I find your videos really educational for me as I find some tiny details and differences to the way you work and the way I do, so when I find something useful (your tube cleaning tool, the tube removal tool in the Panigale fork video) I really love it as attention to detail is what makes the difference between a nice job and a professional job.
As you say, nor I’m perfect, neither I know everything, so having the chance to see how other professionals work keep me highly motivated to keep on improving!
And, oh, by the way, happy christmas to you and your beloved ones! :)
Superb! Really good content! I was trying to fix similiar fork with a open cartridge, the problem was with a seal at the top of the cartridge. When I removed rod seal and the bush i found there a stack of shims for rebound bleed. I was surprised as normally this part of the cartridge should be sealed completely. Even more there was a 4 holes on the side of a cartridge tube allowing fluid to bleed to the main tube. I'm trying to remove now all that stack and re-valve everything soo the rebound is only on the mid-speed valve. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Thanks for watching
The best channel in youtube.
Thanks. I'm not worthy!!
Great informative and easy to follow video, I’m about to change the oil seals on my FG8500 forks and this has helped no end
Thanks a bunch 👍
Great. I love to hear that. Thanks for watching!!
I love the tube cleaner, great idea! Once again thanks for sharing the details are very helpful, even posting the torque specs is fantastic. I try to convince my wife regularly the fact that the bikes are modified, i can follow instructions.... sometimes haha.
Hi Mark. Thanks again for the comment! I think proper torquing is more important to make sure the parts or not overtightened. I have never received a damper with anything not tight enough. Mostly ones with parts way too tight.
Another informative video from my amazing husband Doug !!
Get him snap on tools for xmas.
Another class from the master!!
Great video, please one video how to replace and install bushing on the öhlins forks. Thanks
Great video, as usual, thank you! I'm just starting out, so could you please elaborate on why you don't want the adjusters too much closed? (said around at 40:00)
Edit: I fount an answer under your 'Inside the Ohlins TTX 40' video:
"(...)You have to be careful on any single tube shock with a reservoir compression adjuster. If you start closing down the rebound or compression independent of one another the shock gets out of balance and bad things happen. (...)"
So this can be a problem, if they are not-so-well valved and/or pressure balance is not checked?
HI Ben. Pressure balancing is time consuming and difficult exercise that is rarely if ever done. If a single tube shock is done correctly it is as good as any shock. One of the advantages of Ohlins TTX technology is that you don't have to worry about pressure balancing or cavitation. It is actually adjustable in a wide range. I wrote a thing on shock adjustability that applies to single tube shocks that I will try to attach.
file:///Users/douglasbrenner/Desktop/SHOCK%20ADJUSTABILITY.pdf
@@theohlinsguy4649 Thanks for the answer. Sadly I cannot access what you shared, but I will contact you on your email, I'm quite intrigued. :)
@@theohlinsguy4649 Thank you for your answer. Sadly, I can't access the document, but I will contact you on your email.
@@Ben-cb7uq sounds good. My email is on my website brennershocks
Hi Douglas! first of all thank you for taking your valuable time and show us what your profession is all about!
I own a Kawasaki ZX10R 2011 model that I only use at trackdays, Advanced level (for what it's worth) and happened to have bought a new ttx36 shock and a supposedly unused only open box private sale cartridge kit Ohlins FGR which is gas pressurized, I only did it because it was half the price and hoped to notice night and day difference but to be frank it doesn't give me any more confidence than the original set that came with the bike, I suppose I'm not fast enough, experienced, etc. Could it be that the forks need servicing? How often will I have to have them serviced? Do these cost alot more to service compared to a non-gas set of forks?? I understand these are state of the art racing items, but I'm tempted to just stick the oem set with full service and revalve because I'll be none the wiser and I can service them myself...
Please enlighten me!
All the best!
Hi Richard. It's hard to tell what is going on. Did they seem unused? Were the cartridges still in the blue plastic wrappers? Are they the correct part# for your bike? Do you have the correct springs for your weight?Who installed the FGR? That should be a great combo. Do you have the correct springs for your weight??
@@theohlinsguy4649 Yes correct part no., they were completely dry and came with some blue or yellow (can't recall) tags, I installed them myself (had to make some tools). And I bought separate ohlins springs calculated for my weight fully suited. Would the nitrogen escape after two years of use?? (10 trackdays roughly) How much would less than 6bar (initial pressure) hinder the performance of the forks? thx
Hi Doug, thanks for these superb posts !
Did you ever get around to making the post concerning replacing the inner and outer bushes on the 43mm forks ?
Best regards from GB.
Not yet
@@theohlinsguy4649Hi Doug, could you please explain how much clearance or play one should be able to feel in the sliding components, to assess wear in the bushes.
Many thanks.
@@nigelmitchell351 Hi Nigel. I don't really know. I always replace bushings on shocks when I service them and almost never do on Ohlins forks. I just look at the top bushing and if I don't see any wear I just leave them. The bushings in Ohlins fork are so far apart that I don't believe they get much stress. They need special tools to replace them so if they look perfect I don't replace them. You can do a wiggle test to see if you have any play. I usually can't detect any play. On other brands of forks (when I put Ohlins inserts in them) where one of the bushings is a split one on the small tube I usually just replace them and the top bushing. The split one on the small tube has to come off to put on new seals and some of the seal kits come with bushings anyway. The one on the big tube is easily removed.
Could I see that oil level set up you have that connects to the vac machine? Great idea
It is just a line that goes from my vacuum filler to my fork bench with plastic line. I have a male collet fitting near the vacuum machine and I just plug into it just like I would a shock. Quite simple. Email me at theohlinsguy@gmail.com and ill take some pictures for you
nice video, is there already a video about the bushes? i have to replace mine now
Hi. No, I haven't made a video on that. The problem is you need the proper tools for removal and installation on Ohlins forks. If you don't use them you run the risk of not setting the lower bushing correctly and also damaging the bushing while trying to install it.
@@theohlinsguy4649 ok thanks für the answer, i have to try it anyway, I have too much clearance/ play
Excellent and clear explanation video. Thank-you very much 👍
Thanks Dean. I try!
Great video, Are the FG43 R&T forks any different to swap the seal on?? Going to be doing mine soon
When I look up that number it shows a conventional fork, meaning the big part is down. I have never done any of these. I looked to see if I could find a manual for them but none were available. I wish I could help more. Try Ohlins USA 838 692-4525 and see if they have any info.
@@theohlinsguy4649 Sorry to be precise its the FG 318 kit, Ducati 748-998
@@johnrobertson5489 I can only find a spec card for it It says it is for a 748/916 cc40
@@theohlinsguy4649Appreciated thanks for the quick reply
Thrilled to have found this. Ill probably call in to ask you this but any idea if i can use mercedes benz g wagon ohlin shocks in the new defender to replace broken land rover shocks?
Hi Eric. Thanks for the nice comment. I don't really know. They are making shocks now for jeeps but i don't know what is available. I would call Ohlins USA and see what they know!
Great video, thanks! Is the fork a FG 8851 or FG 8896? I have a 2007 Ducati 1098S and the Ducati manual says I have FG315 forks but everything I find indicates that is the fork on the 999 (Ohlins website indicates it is the FG314 on the 999). My forks have FG511 (the model number of the kit you installed) stamped on them, but the Ohlins website indicates FGRT815 or FGRT211, but I can't find any information on the FG511 on the Ohlins website. Is it because it was OEM forks?
Email me at theohlinsguy@gmail.com and let me know what info you need.
Thank you! How do you become Öhlin certified?
Hi Harry. I have been one for so long I don't remember. Probably the criterion has changed. Call Ohlins USA (if you are in the US) and they can fill you in on the latest. Be prepared to spend a bunch on tools!!
@@theohlinsguy4649 thank you for the info! Being financially challenged is my greatest stumbling block for acquiring more knowledge. I know, utube and google and all that but it all is unstructured which is required to obtain proper training.
Anyways, thank you again for the videos and the reply! Be blessed!
What do you mean by the flat side of the washer facing "down"? Does the seal seat on the flat side or the curved side?
The seal should sit on the curved side. Thanks for the comment!
@@theohlinsguy4649 Thank you so much for your video. I watched fork seal replacement video for very similar forks (new R&T 43 models on the 1098S) and the guy was adamant that the flat side faced the fork seal. When I disassembled mine it was obvious the curved side was up. Thanks for confirming this.
Why wouldn't you use brake or clutch cleaner??
Hi Nathan. I think it is very toxic.
Awesome teacher!! ❤️
Thanks Richard! I try
Orient express sells the correct bushings for the r6. No need to buy complete forks.
Great to know!!. I thought this was kind of weird. Thanks!!!
Nice clear video
Thanks!! I hope it helps
Can u do a video on the dfv struts
Hi Greg Next set I get I will do one. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Great Vid.. Thumbs up!..
Thanks!
Hope it helps!
Sound is so poor can't hear what hes saying
Yes. One of my first Videos. Hopefully it got better! Thanks for the comment!