How to Lubricate Chains
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- The Ultimate Guide to Chain Lubrication and Maintenance
In this video, we delve into the intricacies of chain lubrication, a topic frequently requested by our viewers. Although chains are mechanically simple, their lubrication can be quite complex. We compare chain bearings to plain bearings and discuss the various lubrication regimes, focusing on the importance of additives in boundary and mixed lubrication. We also explore the challenges of lubricating chains with narrow clearances and the different approaches to applying lubricants, from manual methods like sprays and brushes to automatic lubrication systems. Finally, we touch on various chain applications, from small bike chains to large industrial chains, and offer recommendations for suitable lubricants. For professionals, additional training and certifications in lubrication are available at lubrication.expert.
00:00 Introduction to Chain Lubrication
00:04 Understanding Chain Mechanics and Lubrication
01:34 Exploring Lubrication Regimes and Chain Dynamics
03:04 Challenges and Strategies in Chain Lubrication
03:28 Diving Deeper into Chain Lubrication Techniques
06:15 Advanced Chain Lubrication Solutions and Applications
06:58 Choosing the Right Lubrication Method
07:44 Professional Development in Lubrication - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Lubricating a Motorcycle Chain would have to be one if not the top hotly contested debates and arguments on every forum and Facebook page forever. So many ‘swear’ by their own research, technique and product of which there are many!
And it very much depends on the type of chain, for modern motorcycle chains where the pin lubrication is taken care of by grease from the factory that is sealed in with O or X rings, you need a different lubricant than if you are using an old fashioned plain chain
@@ilovecake50 If you have the sealed lubricated chain the pins & and bushings are well lubricated but the rollers & sprocket teeth will still require a topical lubricant.
During economic sanctions in 1970's Rhodesia, we couldn't readily get chains for our motorcycles, so maintenance was of utmost importance. We would remove the chain, then throughly wash it in a bath of kerosene.
After the cleaning, it would be immersed in a bath of melted grease, then removed and allowed to drain. Once cooled, any excess was removed, leaving lubricant where needed, on the pins. We would also reverse the travel direction so as to not have wear on the same thrust surface. Seems excessive in a disposable world, but it is essential if we wanted to ride.
Superior lubrication = superior equipment life
Amazing. This topic is not clear for a lot of professionals. I'm aways searching literature to understand more about chain lubrication.
I make my own chain oilers for my motor cycles.
The best life I have had from a chain was 93,000 km on a Suzuki 1250 Bandit . The chain eventually needed replacement because one internal bush on a pin had collapsed .This was a roller chain with pins , then a fixed bush on the adjacent link and then a free turning roller , all sealed with quad rings. Size 530). The collapsed bush caused a clicking sound each time the link was under load.
The remaining links were all within wear limits using the elongation measurement method - actually around 30% wear. The chain slack had been adjust around 4 times in that 93,000 km - usually at each tyre replacement.
The lubricant I use is 20w40 oil with 10% kerosene which aids wetting when the oil contacts the chain.
In my experience the same chain on the same bike with regular manual lubrication would wear beyond the recommended limit within 20,000 km
Just an idea for a future chain video. Could you go into the depth of balancing lubricants for timing chains (especially when it comes to low viscosity oils), and cvt chains (where a level of "grip" for the pulley is needed.
When in doubt: most gearbox oils will do just fine. As long as the lubricant is able to penetrate to the friction point.
It would be interesting to hear what you think about the wax based systems which are applied via immersion. They are very popular for bike chains. A bit different than the typical oil / grease systems
I think that since most modern chains on bikes have tiny sealant rings for each chain link (which are already lubed inside), the main effect after the immersion into a liquid paraffin is that the water and dirt won't stick to it as much as with using, let's say, 75w gear oil, as the latter isn't dry.
But for the unsealed chains it's probably completely different, like a timing chain in an engine is obviously lubed with the engine oil and can last over 100k miles within it's spec, at least in older engines.
But I would like to have a deep dive into this topic as well.
@@TRiToN219 they do not. It would be cool if they did, but today's chains are far too thin to be able to add seals in this fashion.
The main advantage of immersion waxing is that you fully permeate the chain with lube (both paraffin and other solids), but most importantly, you have virtually ZERO oily substance on the exterior attracting dirt.
It is dirt, especially when riding off road and/or in mud, that attaches to an exposed chain the creates and abrasive paste that works to quickly abrade the steel surfaces and promote chain elongation.
Dirt is the nemesis of he bicycle chain. It's impossible to avoid. No matter how OCD you are about your bicycle chain, it's a black mess in very short order.
Immersion waxing and proper drip wax maintenance appears to be overtaking the bike industry. I'm one of those who's always WANTED to make the transition to immersion waxing, but haven't. I'm THIS CLOSE to making the change on my bikes.
As a dual sport/adventure bike rider i have experimented with many different lubes and routines.... get about 25'000km out of a set of chains(o ring/x ring)and sprockets with the mix of dirt/gravel/pavement no matter what. The outer rollers wear out first, along with the front sprocket.
Rafe, I'm guessing you deliberately left O-ring chains out of the discussion.
This is where the internet goes wild with conspiracy theory 😁
For me, a light spray with a name brand chain oil after washing is what works for this old single track rider.
I routinely get over 100hrs life from my off road chain and sprockets.
Thanks for your content as always. 👍
Thanks you for talking about chains.
Answer: enclosed oil baths with plenty of additives. I once had a motorcycle with an enclosed oilbath chain so it is a more reasonable option than people think.
I also worked in a place with a low speed chain-based hanging conveyor and it required several oilers because of the extreme length (nearly a mile). If only using one lube station the amount of oil needed would drip off and cause problems with the product being conveyed. Some fool manager decided the answer to drips was just turn off the lubrication, massive wear and lengthening within a week.
Chainsaw lubrication is an interesting tangent from this. Sliding (hydrodynamic) film added to this mix, similar to worm-gear / GL-5 requirements?
The sprockets do not see extensive sliding, the roller rolls on and then rolls off.
The wear happens between the roller and the pin and in general, internal roller wear is not an issue as it does not change the length of the chain between pins, and so does not lead to the chain being longer which causes it to ride high on the teeth and wear the teeth.
So only pin wear which will lengthen every second link is to be concerned about.
For a bike chain there is no requirement for lubrication between roller and sprocket, all the work happens inside.
Any oily lubricant on the outside of the chain and on the sprockets only serves to pick up dirt and create a grinding paste and this is what wears sprockets on a bicycle.
Wax based lubricants applied by immersion have proven far lower friction and wear and do not pick up dirt, so save the sprockets from wear, allowing them to last 10 times longer than those using more traditional types of lubrication.
Even just plain paraffin of good base stock, applied by hot immersion, is far superior to any drip or spray applied lube.
Add some good things to the paraffin and both friction and wear are reduced further.
I would love to see you re-visit this topic as much testing has been done in recent years.
I have been immersion waxing for at least 10 years and I am yet to replace any sprockets on my bikes, just replace the chain when it is out of spec.
For off road MTB or gravel riding especially, the gains in longevity for chains and sprockets is huge.
I love the channel, but on this topic you are wrong...
With o-ring sealed chains, the best external lubrication is none at all. I clean my chain with WD-40 and then run it dry. The only thing worse than no lubrication is grinding compound made from lubricant and dirt.
I am eagerly anticipating the MLA III course.
Pls we need content on textile lubrication
Gear oil 80w90 is the best oil to eliminate dirt/sand from links and provide lubrication as fast as it can directly to bushing. Especially if it applies by automatic systems - oilers while the chain is already warmed up.
The pin only slides against the sprocket teeth in the most basic chain designs.
Most chains use a roller between the pin and the tooth.
Chains: simple and OH SO EFFECTIVE!
The chain and cog system has been a resounding success on bicycles for 150 years. People love to complain, "Why haven't bicycles evolved!" on a LOT of forums. This only reveals how ignorant they are about bicycles and human power.
Humans are incredibly weak. So when you operate a bicycle, it's imperative that you have an efficient and light drive train. Enter the chain and cog system. Nothing comes close. There are alternatives, but they have drawbacks: price, weight, and efficiency loss.
I'd LOVE a Pinion-equipped internal gear bicycle. Or a Rohloff internally geared rear hub. But are they necessary? No. The 1X 12-speed mountain bike drive train is here to stay (until it becomes 13-speed...) But fundamentally, it's tried, true and proven.
"But you can tear your rear derailleur off!"
50 years of riding, training and racing on road, mountain, tandem road and tandem mountain bikes - and even unicycling! - and I have YET to tear off a rear derailleur. Maybe technique is involved, I don't know!
Thanks.
last week, I opened up my engine as preventive maintenance, & to swap out the oil pump & collar for the timing gear to a WPC treated set.
I took the opportunity to measure the 207000 mi timing chain (in the engine) vs 3000something mi, & a Zero mi chain.
The difference between 207000 mi vs Zero mi was 1 mm longer. The 3000something mi was close to the 207000 mi chain.
Would your expertise cover more in chain stretch?? Because the car community, & shops I encountered treats timing chain as if it was made of (fatigues like) Al.
For me at least, Gear oil 80W-90 works for 200 KMs
From manufacturers of chain, most state viscousities of ISO 5, 10 and 20 for up to 40c. Many state they prefer non multiviscousity lubricant. Im not sure why they discourage multigrade oil, do you know?
Does this apply to ICE timing chains? It is in a 5W30 usually.
Probably the one of mostly unclear answer grease product is you can't know the lucas grease xtra heavy duty whether is a polyurea conventional or shear stable? Godbless all
I personally use WD-40 and an old tooth brush to clean my motorcycle chain. Then I apply EP120 manual transmission oil using a toothbrush. My chain has lasted quite a while. Still not worn completely.
I used to pressure wash the chain then apply wd-40
For enduro / mx bike chains basically nothing that makes sense for a more normal chain use applies. I've yet to see a product that has a chance to work as intended for more than a few minutes when your chain and sprockets and all the other sliding surfaces get absolutely caked in mud and dirt that gets squished into every nook and cranny. This dirt sludge works like a sanding paste and will most certainly clear out any sort of lubricant in a matter of minutes. Your best bet is an X-ring chain sprayed with WD-40 after washing for the sole reason of keeping the chain dry and preventing it from rusting while sitting. Anything else you try to do to keep that thing better maintained is at best gonna give you one additional ride out of it, so it probably doesn't even make financial sense with how expensive some of the specialist off road chain lubes are. At least that is my experience with mostly muddy and horrible riding conditions. I can see something like PTFE working for chains in drier off road environments.
I raced motocross and rode off road for 20 years. I tried everything & I'll share the secret with you. Start with a non o-ring chain because they're cheaper, roll easier and don't hold as much dust and sand in the links as an o-ring chain. Don't ever use "chain lube" because it collects sand, dust and turns it into a and abrasive compound that sticks to your chain. Simply pressure wash your bike and chain often. pressure washing the chain while you roll it, washes out all the sand and dust in the links. After pressure washing the chain spray it with WD-40. I learned this from a very fast racer that also worked at a dealership as a salesman and later a mechanic.
You are useing oring chains all wrong. The dirt stuck on the outside is not the problem, orings hold in a factory applied grease on the actual bushings and prevent entry of dirt. "Lube" for oring chains is basically just a superficial rust prevention oil and keeps the rings soft, like dirt the external chain lube never penetrates pass the orings.
Dirt on the outer rollers is not what causes wear and chain lengthening although it can wear on the sprockets.
The "easier" roll in your hand is mostly irrelevent, like all bearings, the friction must be tested when under load. The added fiction of the rings compared to the better lubrication of the bushings, and consideration for temperature and strength of availible new chains might be significant in some fringe racing categories but it is a question far from having a universal correct answer.
The first chap was referring to non o-ring chains. There’s as much advice on chain servicing as there are products - it’s done to death as far as I’m concerned - I just use gear box oil as recommended by most manufacturers and clean the chain when it’s dirty - then I get on with the rest of my life…
first
😊😊😊
Just use a thick oil 😊 less mess.