Measure the pins on your machine and sewing table before you buy it. A friend gave me an old table that she had but the width is about an eighth of an inch off. I sort of rigged it up to work but I can't close it. Many of these machines are in portable cases, but they probably weigh 20 lbs. or more. You want a table if you have room for one! There are several vintage sewing machine forums on Facebook. Wonderful people who will be happy to give you advice, help with hints on repairs and servicing, or sources for parts. Perhaps, most importantly, they have libraries with extensive collections of manuals in PDF that you can download for free. I'm sure they don't have all of them but they come close. I have a Federal M316 and I love it! It blew me away the first time I watched it sew over a denim flat felled seam without even slowing down or missing a stitch. Federal was a very small department store chain based in Detroit MI. I've found pictures of the same machine with 8 different badges. Mine has the receptacle on the top for decorative stitch gears but I haven't found a set (12), yet, and really I wouldn't use most of them.
It would be great if you could do a video on that exact upper tension assembly. I have an Imperial 485 with the same tensioner but I received the machine with the whole tensioner unit in a ziploc bag and have no idea how to reassemble it. There sure are a lot of parts.
My wife inherited a 148 Kenmore Sewing machine. After removing it from the case to service it I immediately recognized it as a Singer 15 clone. All the internal parts were exact copy's. They had added zig zag to it and changed the body to fit the zig zag stuff but everything else was exactly the same. After servicing it and removing a chunk of denim that somehow got inside it was back to sewing like a new Singer 15. It's not fast but like a farm tractor it will plow through heavy material without any complaints.
To answer your question about super short stitch length, I usually run into that on toy patterns where there will be a lot of tension on the seams. Sometimes when stay stitching a curve it says to use a short stitch, but not always.
I appreciate your videos, thank you so much. I recently bought an "Anker"model RZ. Unfortunately it needs some work. Has anyone ever shipped a sewing machine to you for repair?
I don't ship or receive machines due to the VERY high chance of damage. I would have a lot more machines to work on as well as sell if I did. Try finding a local sewing machine/repair group via Facebook for your area. Its worth a try!
No actually. The quietest machine I've ever heard is a Singer 201. In second place to that was, oddly enough, a Morse Japanese Clone that I show in one of my videos. It is battleship gray in color.
I have this exact machine. It had belonged to my aunt and has been moved around from family to family for 40+ years, after she passed, but never used. I have manual AND receipt! I have it up and running but the upper tension remains very tight even when set to "0" resulting in thread not picking up the bobbin thread. How can i fix this? As soon as i get this one running for my granddaughters i will start on my mother's Kenmore.
Hi Janice. That machine is a Clone of the Singer design which could either be a 15 class or the Long Shuttle design (Singer 127/128 models). They are very well made. As for value, this is very subjective. They dont' bring as high a price as a Singer would and so I personally would pay based on its condition. And if you are purchasing it to keep and use, your own value analysis comes into play with things such as aesthetics etc.
i've got an Imperial here, straight stitch , looks alot like the one you have but only stitch length selector, it's missing that green knob & the white reverse button, could only find a picture online, can't find any info, weighs close to 35 lbs, any chance you know here i could get the 2 missing pieces and date for it?
Hii! Really easy and great video to follow, I have this exact same machine but my problem is that the thread brakes easily if you could answer my question that would mean a lot, thanks!
There can be any number of causes for this, but one basic approach is to first re-thread your machine and also insert a new needle. In both cases, be sure to follow the manual (if you have one). First, always remember to lift the presser foot when threading as the tension assembly will cause issues if you thread while the foot is down and the thread is under tension in the discs. Second, make sure your needle is properly inserted all the way up and in the proper position. The flat face of the needle should face to the right for this machine (and most of this era) while the groove of the needle should face to the left and the thread gets put through the needle from the left towards the right.
Another brilliant tutorial. Thank you.
Wonderful sewing machine. I would love to buy one as pristine and nice as yours. Thanks for a wonderful channel.
You are so welcome!
Omg, this is what I have except it’s blue. Thank you for sharing this. Julie 🥰😊
Measure the pins on your machine and sewing table before you buy it. A friend gave me an old table that she had but the width is about an eighth of an inch off. I sort of rigged it up to work but I can't close it. Many of these machines are in portable cases, but they probably weigh 20 lbs. or more. You want a table if you have room for one!
There are several vintage sewing machine forums on Facebook. Wonderful people who will be happy to give you advice, help with hints on repairs and servicing, or sources for parts. Perhaps, most importantly, they have libraries with extensive collections of manuals in PDF that you can download for free. I'm sure they don't have all of them but they come close.
I have a Federal M316 and I love it! It blew me away the first time I watched it sew over a denim flat felled seam without even slowing down or missing a stitch. Federal was a very small department store chain based in Detroit MI. I've found pictures of the same machine with 8 different badges. Mine has the receptacle on the top for decorative stitch gears but I haven't found a set (12), yet, and really I wouldn't use most of them.
Love your videos…thank you so restoring these gems.
Glad you like them!
It would be great if you could do a video on that exact upper tension assembly. I have an Imperial 485 with
the same tensioner but I received the machine with the whole tensioner unit in a ziploc bag and have no idea
how to reassemble it. There sure are a lot of parts.
Very nice 👍
Thanks for the visit
My wife inherited a 148 Kenmore Sewing machine. After removing it from the case to service it I immediately recognized it as a Singer 15 clone. All the internal parts were exact copy's. They had added zig zag to it and changed the body to fit the zig zag stuff but everything else was exactly the same. After servicing it and removing a chunk of denim that somehow got inside it was back to sewing like a new Singer 15. It's not fast but like a farm tractor it will plow through heavy material without any complaints.
Farm tractor. What a wonderful description. Built like a tank .
To answer your question about super short stitch length, I usually run into that on toy patterns where there will be a lot of tension on the seams. Sometimes when stay stitching a curve it says to use a short stitch, but not always.
Good to know!
I appreciate your videos, thank you so much. I recently bought an "Anker"model RZ. Unfortunately it needs some work. Has anyone ever shipped a sewing machine to you for repair?
I don't ship or receive machines due to the VERY high chance of damage. I would have a lot more machines to work on as well as sell if I did. Try finding a local sewing machine/repair group via Facebook for your area. Its worth a try!
i was donated the one i have for volunteer work purposes
My old Japanese brother has embroidery unit.. super select omatic. All the class 15 machines
From Japan are #1
Amazing! Is that the quietest machine you have shown us?
No actually. The quietest machine I've ever heard is a Singer 201. In second place to that was, oddly enough, a Morse Japanese Clone that I show in one of my videos. It is battleship gray in color.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I forgot those. The Imperial is quiet, though. It also made lovely small stitches. Very even.
Thank you for demonstrating this machine. I have a very similar machine. The brand is EMDEKO.
Glad you like it!
I have this exact machine. It had belonged to my aunt and has been moved around from family to family for 40+ years, after she passed, but never used. I have manual AND receipt! I have it up and running but the upper tension remains very tight even when set to "0" resulting in thread not picking up the bobbin thread. How can i fix this? As soon as i get this one running for my granddaughters i will start on my mother's Kenmore.
Love videos
Question. What do you know of the Cinderella machine. WW11 Japan is all I know. Just came across this. They are asking 100.00
Hi Janice. That machine is a Clone of the Singer design which could either be a 15 class or the Long Shuttle design (Singer 127/128 models). They are very well made. As for value, this is very subjective. They dont' bring as high a price as a Singer would and so I personally would pay based on its condition. And if you are purchasing it to keep and use, your own value analysis comes into play with things such as aesthetics etc.
i've got an Imperial here, straight stitch , looks alot like the one you have but only stitch length selector, it's missing that green knob & the white reverse button, could only find a picture online, can't find any info, weighs close to 35 lbs, any chance you know here i could get the 2 missing pieces and date for it?
Hii! Really easy and great video to follow, I have this exact same machine but my problem is that the thread brakes easily if you could answer my question that would mean a lot, thanks!
There can be any number of causes for this, but one basic approach is to first re-thread your machine and also insert a new needle. In both cases, be sure to follow the manual (if you have one). First, always remember to lift the presser foot when threading as the tension assembly will cause issues if you thread while the foot is down and the thread is under tension in the discs. Second, make sure your needle is properly inserted all the way up and in the proper position. The flat face of the needle should face to the right for this machine (and most of this era) while the groove of the needle should face to the left and the thread gets put through the needle from the left towards the right.
where can you get the foot pedal with the plugs
It looks like the designers were copying the look of a Necchi. I love the solid sounds of these old machines.