Blanking Punch Die Set - The Punch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2020
- In this video, I make the punch portion of the blanking punch die set and test it.
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Craig's Machine Shop
2753 E. Broadway Rd Ste. 101-PMB416
Mesa, Az 85204-1570 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Really enjoyed watching you go thru and find the best way to make something efficiently
Thanks! I always enjoy finding a faster or less expensive way of doing things.
Great video! I learned a lot. I do not know much about machining, but I am trying to do a project similar for a museum, and am trying to learn. This was a good start, so thanks!
Apparnetly there are a couple styles of stripper plates, with thicker stock you can make L shaped guides that mount on the bottom plate that keep the sheet from lifting up with the punch, the other kind is like a spring loaded plate that holds the stock down.
Thanks, yeah I think I will be going with stripper springs on the guide posts and a stripper plate mounted to the top of the die.
That seemed surprisingly straight forward. Well done.
Thanks, yeah it's turning out to be easier than I thought.
Good work
As someone who grew up around a family owned machine shop, I enjoy videos like this. Don’t know how you can stand breathing that mist and smoke, but good video.
Thanks! Yeah, I finally got an air cleaner in the shop.
Congratulations works well.
Thanks!
I have made a few punch/die sets. You might try using loner pins to hold the blocks parallel and shorter top plates to clear the pins sticking out.
Also make pockets around the pins for some die springs to open the punch from the die.
Mark the center to locate the press.
What are loner pins?
@@craigsmachineshop2040 You can use hardened shafting and cut them to the length you need to go through the two blocks. McMaster Carr has shafting and longer dowel pins.
Great job.
Thanks Roy!
awesome vide thank you for sharing
What tool steel did you use? Also, what is the sound that your Harbor Freight press makes, and why are you not cranking it by hand?
Looks like it's going good Craig, for future projects it's a industry standard to have the press fit of your pins on the core side of the tool, generally you leave them sticking up above the core this adds some level of protection I case of drops or knocking the plate over.
Cool. If you ever find yourself needing a bit more tonnage, it’s possible to reduce the tonnage required by adding a “rooftop” or inverted rooftop angle profile to the punch face. Of course it will tend to deform the part slightly which may be undesirable. Depends on how steep you make it. 1 or 2 degrees might be enough to help yet not deform the part. Just something to consider...
Thanks Daniel. Yeah, I should have tried that on this die. I'm kind of afraid to on the real die set in case the holes aren't accurate and I can't get the pins out. Lol. I was planning on attaching the pins to the base plate with screws from the bottom.
I was thinking about making the punch concave but that's a lot of 3D machining of tool steel. Any idea of percentage of tonnage saved?
@@craigsmachineshop2040 it looks like you got pretty good alignment on this one, if you want to make this one into a press on the core side just take a ball bearing larger the the hole diamater, put it on the hole and hit it a couple times with a hammer, the pin will press right in
Tricks of the trade huh. :) I'll have to give it a try, thanks!
Thanks Craig! Do you think a 20 ton hydraulic press will work doing this on 24 ga stainless steel?
Sweet!
What kind of steel do you use that can't cut iron without heat treatment ?
Hi, please advise me. I will stamp 4 mm copper sheet. I have 10 tons mannual jack. Is it can do stamp? or 20 tons jack?
magnificent
Thanks!
Wonder where to buy this die set?
Have you considered tapering the punch by 1 degree or so ? that reduces the pressure as one side attacks the material slightly earlier, like a scissor action ? Keen to know your thoughts..
I was trying to figure how to do it but I recently realized that I can machine it and then just put some precision shims under the parallels. I will give it a try. What do you think?
You might try to build the relief at a taper instead of a step. The taper will strengthen the shearing face and eliminate the sharp stress riser in the step.
Great work. I always enjoy watching others make money in a home garage/shed.
Thanks Bruce! How is that typically done, with a taper endmill?
@@craigsmachineshop2040When machining the relief, set the part at an angle and use a conventional end mill. Another way and maybe much easier with a CNC is to step mill the taper in increments from the bottom side of the die cavity. Yet another method would involve a hand grinder. Years ago I used the above methods except I didn't have access to the CNC so I manually set different depths of cuts to form a rough tapper in the relief.
I hope this gives you some ideas you can implement into your design if needed.
Thanks for thg he tips.
Great !!, can a converted mill reach the same quality as your torchmach ?
Thanks! Sam at CNC4XR7 has converted a Precision Mathews and he does really well with it.
Craig, you didn't mention hardening the die set. What steel did you use that will allow you to punch 16ga steel without much wear?
It was just a test die set. I used cold-rolled steel and didn't harden it. Cut pretty well though huh. I will be making the final dies out of A2 and farm out the hardening and tempering. They will be used in production.
Hey Craig I gotta ask. What are you planning on making with all these punch and dye sets?
I make specialty electrical covers.
What material is this made of?
Great work! 😁👍
Thanks Henry!
@@craigsmachineshop2040 You're quite welcome Craig!
@@craigsmachineshop2040 hi Craig nicely done, where are you based,whats your whatsapp number
@@aswellmakando1724 Thanks, Phoenix Arizona. What is WhatsApp
@@craigsmachineshop2040 WhatsApp is an app on the phone it's one of cheapest communication system u can download it from play store on your
Craig do you have any other videos on the hole punch or other tools you have on the other presses
Hi Matthew. Just what's on my channel.
What type of steel did you use for the punch and die set? Did you have it properly tempered and to what Rockwell hardness?
It was just a test set. It was mild steel unhardened. I do have the final die set now. I think it was D2 hardened. Not sure what Rockwell. I made the overall die set and outsourced the hardened parts.
Hi Craig
Just wondering, about how much clearence you left between the die gravity and the punch part of the die
Nice build great work
Thanks David. The overall clearance between the die and the punch was about .014, or about .007 from edge to edge. The punch was .375 thick and the die from face to cavity was .125. So I had an extra .250 to push the blank into the cavity.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 hi Craig,
Really great video! I do have a question. Could you not just do it in cad and laser cut it? I am probably oversimplifying it I imagine.
Thanks again for the video.
Regards,
Simon.
@@simon9447 Thanks! Laser-cutting machines are extremely expensive and the lead time for laser cutting is too long. Punching them is actually far faster and cheaper once you have the equipment.
Excellent sir..
But when you finished blanking why u have pireced one hole at centre of blank 🤔
It's a screw hole.
good
super
For thinner parts just the punch could be made and Urethane used for the die. There is no need for any alignment. Here is a link to the method - th-cam.com/video/dOAVcJ1CCmY/w-d-xo.html PRECISION THIN COMPLEX PARTS THE EASY WAY.
How do you know what tonnage press you will need?
Unipunch has a calculator. www.unipunch.com/support/calculators/tonnage-calculator/
Hi Craig. Great videos n how much did you get your cnc for.
Thanks, about $9K with shipping
Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate your time . Do they ship to West Africa.
@@hansbeamer5725 Not sure, check with Tormach
Flip the part over before punching to put burr's on the same side.
Thanks!
That has to be aluminum, for the milling bit to carve it?
Aluminum would be too soft.
Most tool and die are milled and tool steel which is heat treated after milling, then ground.
No, carbide endmills will cut steel, stainless steel, tool steel...
@@craigsmachineshop2040 soft carbide alloys.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 soft carbide alloys.
What is the capacity of your press ?
20 ton
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thanks
what material is that?
1018 Cold Rolled Steel
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thank you Sir much appreciated 👍
Hi Craig , can you make me a punching set for something i do in aluminum sheet? any email or cell number where i can send you the measure, pictures , all information of what I need? Thanks you much.
Sorry, I only make tooling for in-house use.
How remove scrap , pin very lose, make auto matic tool
Yeah, one of these days I will get back to making it.