Oris has an independent spirit, ethos, and mission that is really working right now. In an industry full of horological houses under the thumb of conglomerates and beholden to stockholders, it is refreshing to appreciate a brand that dares to take chances. Great limited editions, in house movements, bold dial colors, use of bronze (and now even PM)........it's hard not to root for Oris. Jumping hour GMT pls!!
I prefer the older cathedral hands personally, but I can understand they need to go where the market is. Really glad they are going for their caliber 400 too; feels more special than another selita.
Agreed. I'm a big Oris fan and think this watch would have been better with the cathedral hands and coin-edge bezel more associated with the Big Crown Pointer Date. Also, a reversion to a standard second hand format would be an improvement - I'm so over the small second hand trend at this point.
@@hudldevice1092standard second hands are boring as hell. And a coin edge bezel is a very redundant offering from Oris the polished bezel looks much better for this watch.
@@BourbonInhibitions Small second hands are functionally pretty pointless compared to standard central second hands; if it's going for something a little different, Oris would have been better off removing the second hand entirely and leaving the dial less cluttered. Losing the cathedral hands and coin edge bezel means much of the classic design language of the pointer dates has been lost - and all we are left with is a rather bland looking watch with a cluttered dial and an overly-polished 'scratch magnet' bezel.
I’m a movement nerd and think Oris and Baume et Mercier are doing great stuff. Both have in-house movements with 5 day power reserves. Think they are trying to separate themselves from other companies using selitta or ETA movements.
Agree. They’re really trying to separate from the micro brand/boutique market. Oris has outstanding heritage, there’s no need to be lumped in with the pop-ups.
Yes, agree. There's so much to like about this piece. But thank you calling that out. I'm considering this model (hence, why my research brought me to this page), and you are the first that I've seen mention the reflection. The lack of an anti-reflective coating on the crystal may be a deal-breaker for me. I own a Hamilton field watch and it drives me absolutely nuts that they didn't include an anti-reflective coating on a watch in the $4K range it's a no-brainer that I think they should absolutely include it.
Hey Bruce.. I have had 2 bummers with the new calibre 400 Aquis.. The first watch ran at +90 mins (yes minutes) per day, got it replaced and the second one went at +15 spd.. Sent the watch to Oris and was told this movement is faulty too... No more Oris for me.. Feel they have not really tested the calibre
I am waiting on this and not becoming an early adapter. I just bought the NY Harbor pearl dial with the SW200. It is a suppler comfortable watch and outstanding dial. I am not sure I would have bought it with the newer calibers and the cost was 1/2.
Tudor managed a 15,000 gauss antimagnetic rating on their metas watch. Oris needs to bump up that mediocre 2250 gauss rating. Also, the quality of their movement parts are quite poor. From the metals they’re made of to the finishing inside. If they want to justify the price increase from their other Big Crown watches, they need to try harder.
For $4000, the polishing on the sides of the case just don’t do it for me. I’ve seen micro brands with better polish. I’d rather it be brushed, then “polished” like that.
Not my cup of tea, but this movement looks really nice! Oris are definitely giving you a lot of your money. I always wondered why they are almost no manual timepieces for a normal price it's easier to make then a automatic but usually they are much more expensive. Not that I don't like Lange and Patek but I have to win the lottery first or maybe sell my house and be the most baller homeless ever.
A great movement ruined by a lousy watch. The case is smaller than the crown and the dial is too cheap (no applied indices at this price?!?) and too crowded.
This ones in my collection...its a solid daily... its not that hard to match the dial colour to clothing choices.... but it wont wear with everything...but few interesting watches do.. i prefer it to my tudor ranger which i didnt think i would at first. Solid watch.
I have this watch and I have to say, I'm not a fan of the wrist band that it comes with. I was initially unsure of the case size as I tend to favor larger 40mm watches, but the more I wear it, the more I like it.
The long winding is more appropriate for a retiree on a rocking chair with plenty of time!.That is a big negative of this nice aesthetic,and quality movement.
I’d rather they passed on the anglage altogether rather than have something that really shows how machine finished it is. Also, in one of the later macro shots, the second hand seems to jam momentarily (somebody else in the comments noticed this too).
I tried one on the other day and I immediately felt like it would be nicer in a larger size. The watch looks and feels great! Too small for my taste. :)
The watch is a beauty and I'd love to have it even though I'm not fan of handwinding. The only "negative" is the lack of the pointerdate coin bezel. Not because I dislike it without it but because I love it so much that I miss it.
@@bigmacdaddy1234 To be fair they don't usually put a display caseback on their watches either... If i see a display caseback, I want the movement to have decent decoration. Might just be me.
Oooooooo the anglage! I swear I can spy bits of the gentian wood Oris used!! And the beveling! It looks so good I'd swear a machine did it if I didn't know better! All it needs is a chiton or two! Tim!! hehehehe :) seriously it's a good looking moment and I love the power reserve. Nice.
With the growing number of in house movements, will there be enough independent watchmakers to service them down the road? or will buyers be stuck to have these watches serviced only by the manufacturer? It just seems like the move to going in house is more a matter of status than anything practical.
Beautiful watch but missed opportunity on the lack of cathedral style hands. Would like it better in a 40mm as well. How do you have a hand wind movement with a threaded crown? I've never seen that before.
Question I have with this watch with the butterfly clasp and it being a Cervo Volante strap now is, can the buckle from the Cervo Volante straps be detached (as any normal leather strap) so that I can use a (3rd party) butterfly clasp?
I wasn't sure about the pastel blues that have been growing in numbers. I don't dislike it, but just don't think it was for me. But this I can imagine wearing with pleasure, frequently. I like what it does to this cleaner and more modern big crown layout. The movement is fine. Thankfully a decent power reserve, but ultimately for me personally it's not why I would buy it and certainly wouldn't be the reason to pay more for it, so I find it too expensive. I would have been happy with the standard and it would have been a proper rival for the very handsome X Cervo Volante. I might even prefer it.
Lol Hamilton has probably the worst lume of any mainstream Swiss brand. Oris does a good job with lume on thier divers. Not on this aviation watch though
Warning - this may be nitpicking. I think Oris are doing some amazing watches, showcasing genuine engineering capability. However, every time I look at their dials, I feel their printed logo makes them feel somewhat underdone. Some people may think this simplicity is classy, but regardless of whether they use their current logo or reach back to a historical one, I feel an applied ORIS logo would just elevate the perception of these watches to what they actually are. Thats all. Nice video - great watch.
Tried this on last week, it’s very nice. I like the power reserve on the back,and the overall variation of the caliber 400. I have an Aquis caliber 400. The long winding time for this is a bummer
Hey Bruce, you said it took a while to fully wind, how long did it take? I have a Aquis with the calibre 400 that I love but I feel like no matter how much I wind it it doesn’t get fully wound. Great video, thanks!
Great video Bruce.. love this Oris, the look, size, color, history and movement.. but I can't find anywhere that this movement is COSC certified, not even on their website.. please tell us Oris fan boys where does it say that it's COSC certified, knowing that it is, it's a big plus for me to pull the trigger and buy one.. keep up the great content.⌚️😃👍
Ok, this is a very nice caliber! I love the power reserve complication on the back but I would take a NOMOS over an Oris all day everyday and thats saying plenty because I am a huge Oris fan boy lol Should also be mentioned that the Nomos is 1/2 to 2/3 the price.
It's very pretty, but I dislike the small seconds, it doesn't look proportional being so small, but I generally don't like small seconds so it could be just me. The big crown pointer date overall has a better look at least on the dial side.
Nobody cares about specifications, caliber and old-school blah blah... Without cathedral hands it looks like a grandma crap watch. It doesn't look like a 4k watch
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Oris has an independent spirit, ethos, and mission that is really working right now. In an industry full of horological houses under the thumb of conglomerates and beholden to stockholders, it is refreshing to appreciate a brand that dares to take chances. Great limited editions, in house movements, bold dial colors, use of bronze (and now even PM)........it's hard not to root for Oris. Jumping hour GMT pls!!
Hard to decide between 403 or 473,both are stunning
Oris is killing it lately.
Truth
Agree 😅
Oris ain't messing around!
Overpriced
Overpriced compared to what?
Killer movement, Oris is really punching above its weight
I prefer the older cathedral hands personally, but I can understand they need to go where the market is. Really glad they are going for their caliber 400 too; feels more special than another selita.
Agreed. I'm a big Oris fan and think this watch would have been better with the cathedral hands and coin-edge bezel more associated with the Big Crown Pointer Date. Also, a reversion to a standard second hand format would be an improvement - I'm so over the small second hand trend at this point.
@@hudldevice1092standard second hands are boring as hell. And a coin edge bezel is a very redundant offering from Oris the polished bezel looks much better for this watch.
@@BourbonInhibitions Small second hands are functionally pretty pointless compared to standard central second hands; if it's going for something a little different, Oris would have been better off removing the second hand entirely and leaving the dial less cluttered. Losing the cathedral hands and coin edge bezel means much of the classic design language of the pointer dates has been lost - and all we are left with is a rather bland looking watch with a cluttered dial and an overly-polished 'scratch magnet' bezel.
Beautiful watch and excellent review Bruce. I love the five day power reserve, but wish the lume was better.
I’m a movement nerd and think Oris and Baume et Mercier are doing great stuff. Both have in-house movements with 5 day power reserves. Think they are trying to separate themselves from other companies using selitta or ETA movements.
Agree. They’re really trying to separate from the micro brand/boutique market. Oris has outstanding heritage, there’s no need to be lumped in with the pop-ups.
Thank you for mentioning the reflections on the crystal
Yes, agree. There's so much to like about this piece. But thank you calling that out. I'm considering this model (hence, why my research brought me to this page), and you are the first that I've seen mention the reflection. The lack of an anti-reflective coating on the crystal may be a deal-breaker for me. I own a Hamilton field watch and it drives me absolutely nuts that they didn't include an anti-reflective coating on a watch in the $4K range it's a no-brainer that I think they should absolutely include it.
Shame Oris abandoned Artix line. Pop one of those 5-10 day movements in and take my money.
Is this in-house movements just a modified Sellita movement?
No. It is a true new movement
Why is the movement all covered up like modern day car engines? Wouldn't it look better showing more internal parts?
Hey Bruce.. I have had 2 bummers with the new calibre 400 Aquis.. The first watch ran at +90 mins (yes minutes) per day, got it replaced and the second one went at +15 spd.. Sent the watch to Oris and was told this movement is faulty too... No more Oris for me.. Feel they have not really tested the calibre
I'm glad they took care of you. The window is -3/+5 per day. I haven't had any issues but I'm sure they happen from time to time. Never fun
I am waiting on this and not becoming an early adapter. I just bought the NY Harbor pearl dial with the SW200. It is a suppler comfortable watch and outstanding dial. I am not sure I would have bought it with the newer calibers and the cost was 1/2.
Tudor managed a 15,000 gauss antimagnetic rating on their metas watch. Oris needs to bump up that mediocre 2250 gauss rating. Also, the quality of their movement parts are quite poor. From the metals they’re made of to the finishing inside. If they want to justify the price increase from their other Big Crown watches, they need to try harder.
Now thats a watch i can add to my collection...love the dial colour!
For $4000, the polishing on the sides of the case just don’t do it for me. I’ve seen micro brands with better polish. I’d rather it be brushed, then “polished” like that.
I'd also expect blued screws, some geneva stripes...
Oris makes really great watches, however movement decoration is not their strong side
Hi, how are you, can you tell me about this Oris Big Crown Caliber 473 watch, who would be your direct competitors?
Not my cup of tea, but this movement looks really nice! Oris are definitely giving you a lot of your money. I always wondered why they are almost no manual timepieces for a normal price it's easier to make then a automatic but usually they are much more expensive. Not that I don't like Lange and Patek but I have to win the lottery first or maybe sell my house and be the most baller homeless ever.
Pointer is too prominent...numeric font is too plain...price is too high...19mm strap is too small, plates conceal most of the movement. Fail!
A great movement ruined by a lousy watch. The case is smaller than the crown and the dial is too cheap (no applied indices at this price?!?) and too crowded.
The problem with Oris is they want to charge Rolex like service cost, over 500$ for a three hand auto/mech is too much.
This ones in my collection...its a solid daily... its not that hard to match the dial colour to clothing choices.... but it wont wear with everything...but few interesting watches do.. i prefer it to my tudor ranger which i didnt think i would at first. Solid watch.
Wow! That movement is beautiful!
I have this watch and I have to say, I'm not a fan of the wrist band that it comes with. I was initially unsure of the case size as I tend to favor larger 40mm watches, but the more I wear it, the more I like it.
Beautiful piece and movement looks awesome especially for the price!
The long winding is more appropriate for a retiree on a rocking chair with plenty of time!.That is a big negative of this nice aesthetic,and quality movement.
I mean if you can't spare a full minute... you may be too busy for this hobby haha
This doesn't make any sense, why is this handwinding movement thicker than the automatic version?
I’d rather they passed on the anglage altogether rather than have something that really shows how machine finished it is. Also, in one of the later macro shots, the second hand seems to jam momentarily (somebody else in the comments noticed this too).
DAM nice coluors but the reflaction was really bad
Powermatic 80 is impressive but this is crazy.
What is going on with the seconds hand at 5.42? Jumps back a second and then carries on
I tried one on the other day and I immediately felt like it would be nicer in a larger size. The watch looks and feels great! Too small for my taste. :)
@@annarakannan6620 They didn't have one in the store I visited.
for that price I would rather get a nomos.
The watch is a beauty and I'd love to have it even though I'm not fan of handwinding. The only "negative" is the lack of the pointerdate coin bezel. Not because I dislike it without it but because I love it so much that I miss it.
Couldn’t agree more! Love the coin edge bezel on my older big crown pointer date
How could you skip showing us how that spring of the power reserve behaves when you wind the watch?
It is a technically impressive movement, but they could have done a bit better in terms of finishing/decoration.
Rolex offers no decoration whatsoever and nobody is complaining.
@@bigmacdaddy1234 To be fair they don't usually put a display caseback on their watches either... If i see a display caseback, I want the movement to have decent decoration. Might just be me.
That calibre is sweet. Does is have the quirk the 400 cal has with the second hand, or was it the minute hand?
Not that I noticed. But I always backpedal when setting the time which is habit
its still to much money for a watch like that.
Oooooooo the anglage! I swear I can spy bits of the gentian wood Oris used!! And the beveling! It looks so good I'd swear a machine did it if I didn't know better! All it needs is a chiton or two! Tim!! hehehehe :) seriously it's a good looking moment and I love the power reserve. Nice.
too small. needs a bracelet if they want to charge that much. It's close... but a miss for me. I AM a sucker for handwind movements.
With the growing number of in house movements, will there be enough independent watchmakers to service them down the road? or will buyers be stuck to have these watches serviced only by the manufacturer? It just seems like the move to going in house is more a matter of status than anything practical.
The back is much better than front.
wow i usually fucking hate oris but this fucking good. like realy fucking good. i am sorta mad that i like this
Beautiful watch but missed opportunity on the lack of cathedral style hands. Would like it better in a 40mm as well. How do you have a hand wind movement with a threaded crown? I've never seen that before.
Where the parts of the caliber 400 are built? I think this is a fundamental question...
I don't like the color of the dial because it only narrows down the type of watch to just a dress watch
Question I have with this watch with the butterfly clasp and it being a Cervo Volante strap now is, can the buckle from the Cervo Volante straps be detached (as any normal leather strap) so that I can use a (3rd party) butterfly clasp?
And who ever care's about power reserve on back of the watch? You really need it on backside?
Oris doing it again in it own way. No need to play with the so called big boys who cant match their what under the hood of an Oris in the price range.
This hand wound watch is certainly more interesting than automatic watches. There is more involvement in a hand wound watch than in an automatic one.
The calibre 473 still have the jumping minute hand issue?
I wasn't sure about the pastel blues that have been growing in numbers. I don't dislike it, but just don't think it was for me. But this I can imagine wearing with pleasure, frequently. I like what it does to this cleaner and more modern big crown layout. The movement is fine. Thankfully a decent power reserve, but ultimately for me personally it's not why I would buy it and certainly wouldn't be the reason to pay more for it, so I find it too expensive. I would have been happy with the standard and it would have been a proper rival for the very handsome X Cervo Volante. I might even prefer it.
The lug width looks off and the straps too thin. Not symmetrical fit.
Hey Oris where's the Aquis titanium with cal. 400?
If Oris made a 19mm bracelet for this watch, I’d buy it for my Big Crown 403.
Beautiful Watch❤
That is just a perfect watch, except for all the reflection on the crystal.
Nice to see, thanks
Bruuuucceeeeyyy booooooooi
this thing is insane
All in all I like what I see...agree with you on the sizing though. Maybe a 40-41 even 42mm down the road would be great.
Thank you Bruce! Excellent video! This watch is so gorgeous. I will flip my Big Crown ProPilot for this.
Omg, the lume on the numerals fades completely in 2 minutes?! And that for a 4200 euro watch?! I bet even Hamilton does a better job, doesn't it?
Lol Hamilton has probably the worst lume of any mainstream Swiss brand. Oris does a good job with lume on thier divers. Not on this aviation watch though
I miss the red rotor tbh
Warning - this may be nitpicking. I think Oris are doing some amazing watches, showcasing genuine engineering capability. However, every time I look at their dials, I feel their printed logo makes them feel somewhat underdone. Some people may think this simplicity is classy, but regardless of whether they use their current logo or reach back to a historical one, I feel an applied ORIS logo would just elevate the perception of these watches to what they actually are. Thats all. Nice video - great watch.
I feel the same way about the Rolex Sub...cheap printed logo and printed crown on the dial. For the asking price, it should be in white gold.
What an amazing watch! Hopinjg for more colour options
Tried this on last week, it’s very nice. I like the power reserve on the back,and the overall variation of the caliber 400. I have an Aquis caliber 400. The long winding time for this is a bummer
You mentioned it was a deer skin strap but said nothing about the giant stag beetle embossed on the inside. What gives?
Cervo Volante logo haha
I don’t think this is chronometer certified…it is within chronometer parameters, but it is not certified
True, I meat to say tighter than cost spec
Looks like the watch was accidentally left in a laundry machine
😂
Yea I’m not feeling the dial at all
Boring face but nice movement
Omg this is gorgeous!
Beautiful dial! Though still slightly prefer the more dynamic blue of the Cervo Volante. How long did it take to wind? Think I’d go auto.
About one minute
@@BruceWilliams Thanks!
Hey Bruce, you said it took a while to fully wind, how long did it take? I have a Aquis with the calibre 400 that I love but I feel like no matter how much I wind it it doesn’t get fully wound. Great video, thanks!
About one solid minute of winding 👍
The Aquis is an automatic. The crown will never stop no matter how much you wind it. That's by design.
Woww
That band is not good.
Great video Bruce.. love this Oris, the look, size, color, history and movement.. but I can't find anywhere that this movement is COSC certified, not even on their website.. please tell us Oris fan boys where does it say that it's COSC certified, knowing that it is, it's a big plus for me to pull the trigger and buy one.. keep up the great content.⌚️😃👍
I think he misspoke, it's probably the same as the caliber 400 where it exceeds COSC requirements but hasn't been submitted for certification.
@@khaaaaaaaaaannn I think so too.. thanks for the feedback 👍
Agreed. It's regulated tighter than cosc. That range is -4/+6. This is -3/+5
Ok, this is a very nice caliber! I love the power reserve complication on the back but I would take a NOMOS over an Oris all day everyday and thats saying plenty because I am a huge Oris fan boy lol Should also be mentioned that the Nomos is 1/2 to 2/3 the price.
Apples and oranges
Having a pilot ppx with the 400-2, it takes a looong time to wind. Not so bad for an auto, but this is hand wind only and you'd be doing it a lot.
If you wind this every third day it takes less than 30 seconds. Is that much?
@@jesperfredson643 3 days would be about 130 turns, so over 4 turns per second to get it done in 30.
@@DonaldPerley I have the watch, so I think I know better than a person that havent handled the watch=)
If the 473 hand winds the same as a 400-2, then effectively i have handled it. If you're ok with the number of turns per day it takes, then fine.
I love it
It's very pretty, but I dislike the small seconds, it doesn't look proportional being so small, but I generally don't like small seconds so it could be just me. The big crown pointer date overall has a better look at least on the dial side.
What happens with the seconds hand at 05:41?
I noticed that too, looks like it pauses or backtracks for an instance.
Definitely did something odd. Good catch.
It’s the video editing
120 days is insane!
Hours... 5 days... but still insane.
Very nice, but the blue is so 2022
Meaning? Havent seen this blue in many other watches in 2022.
$4,000?! They're crazy lmao
Really crazy. Tudor are charging 3.000 for BB36 with a sellita movement, and people think thats good value for the money. People are crazy.
I stopped watching when you mentioned the price 😃
Nobody cares about specifications, caliber and old-school blah blah... Without cathedral hands it looks like a grandma crap watch. It doesn't look like a 4k watch
You seem like you would be fun at parties
If it was 2000 I'd consider. Don't think the movement is work 2k more then the new 38 models that released last yr