I would start by replacing the rest of the capacitors. If those two were bad then they possibly all are, even if the others aren't getting warm. The two caps you replaced were likely the power supply filtering caps, and the other caps are presumably part of the telephone interface, and so could be presenting a voltage or odd signal on the telephone interface that's upsetting the modem if they've failed.
0:46 You may not believe it but many wiring closets for businesses still have those. They are plugged into Cisco switches so remote techs can dial in and work on the switch even if the internet is down. 5:47 If your parents had that modem back in the day, you were pretty lucky as they were expensive compared to the ones that were on a card that went into the PC. Hayes set the standard that every manufacture followed to make their modem compatible with the Hayes. 24:54 If you are using Shaw home phone over coax I think you are on a digital line not an analog line. I seem to remember there is a box you have to put between the digital Shaw box and an analog modem to sense the 50 volts DC of a phone line. One time I was doing work on a phone line in my house. I was putting in a wall jack or something I had the live phone cable in my mouth stripping the insulation from the copper with my teeth (I know stupid idea) the phone rang 50 volts DC straight into my mouth, I only did that once. If you have ever put your tongue on a 9 volt battery to test it? Ya, a phone line ringing is 50 times that took a week for taste to come back.
I was able to do the 56k USR dial up video without any issues and connect to NetZero. I use Rogers here in the east. I think the modem is just not coming out of some sort of diagnostic startup mode. I have some great suggestions in the comments that im going to try. Wish me luck!
It's the "complained about your audio" guy here just to say your sound has been excellent since! :) Also in your Dell XE video, I figure you already heard that weird USB port is usually for point of sale equipment.
If this is set up like USR modems were (which used some of the same chips), the board with the two TMS320 DSPs is the modem itself, and the main board has the serial interface, AT command processor, data access arrangement (the large transformer near the top) and the power supply. I'm not entirely sure why there are two DSPs instead of just one.
As suggested before, try using a terminal program and see if it shows any errors. Maybe try different speeds, in case the modem is in a fail-safe mode; It could be the eeprom contents are hosed and the settings are in an undefined state, if you can 'talk' to the modem, these are some AT-commands that could reset the modem to factory defaults: AT&F&C1&D2 and/or AT&FE1Q0V1X4&C1&D2
Those blue caps do look suspect. Or sus as the kids say. Anyway, I may have one of those modems in storage. At least, it looks the same. But as you noted, Hayes used the same case design for a series of different models. Worst case, happy to send it to you if wanted. Virtually certain I know exactly where it is in storage but let me check. I once ran a couple different BBS systems and ran through a slew of different modems, finally ending up with a USR Courier as everybody else did. Note for everyone, use caution with the modem power supplies. Many of them are AC output, not DC.
Check the voltage coming in from the power supply when it's powering the modem. It's most likely within spec but it's always a good idea to make sure. Also check the supply voltage at the ROM chip.
Did you try sending commands to the modem from command line? Echo ath0 (zero) >>com1 it should click. Try it with ath1 as well. A term program would be better because the modem will issue responses. The Hayes command set has diagnostics built in.
The stuck RD light will have been picking up noise from the switching power supply circuit which you have now cured with the caps. As others have said there may be error or diagnostic information sent over the serial at power up that you may see with hyperterminal in 98. For next hardware diagnostics the first thing to check is all the voltages, and for that you at least need datasheets for the chips to know what voltages they need, or a schematic that shows you what the voltages should be.
I was going by the ROM chip as it stated 1987, however that could mean something else. I'll take a look at the other chips when I go to continue troubleshooting.
@@TheRetroRecall The 9600 baud standard wasn't even ratified until 1988, so 1993 is more likely. The 1987 copyright on the ROM chip would be for some of the code which would have been written back then.
when you removed the caps I see alot of corosion around the positive holes. looks like the 2 caps are conected in paralell. use multimeter to make sure both positives have continuity to make sure corosion did not cut that trace .
It seem the modem doesn't boot up, right? I would try to reseat that daughter board and that IC under it. The two socketed PLCC chips on the daughter card as well. Maybe that helps but I guess there's either some problem with ROM chip itself or it contents got corrupted somehow over the last 30 years (looks like its made in early 1993 according to the datecodes on chips and board) or there's still another fault in the power section. I would check that SMD cap between that Motorola chip UA78540 (still no clue what it does) and the new caps it might leaked as well. And there is an smaller SMD chip there on the edge not sure if you hit it with the vinegar maybe it got some corrosion on the legs.
There are "Prolific" branded Serial (RS232) to USB adapter cables, in case the PC has USB ports but no Serial port for the dial-up modem. There are also simple USB to RJ11 jack modems available. A U.S. Robotics 56K V.92 fax/data modem would likely be the best option, quality-wise & connection speed wise. USR sometimes made modem firmware updates available. There is PC software that can interface with POTS (plain old telephone service) that can pop-up caller I.D. on your computer screen, initiate a dial-up voice phone call connection from your computer screen, etc. However, wasting further effort on repair of your Hayes 9600 baud modem is probably not worth pursuing.
Thanks for the info, for me as noted in the video I want this working again for nostalgic reasons. It was my first dial up modem. I just did a video on the 56k USR modem last week and it connected just fine with this pc using just a serial cable.
there could also be dry joints looking though a microscope should help with that and as you had some bad caps the others could be out of spec but not leaking @@TheRetroRecall
PCB= "Printed circuit BOARD" it is a board, and your iron is set too low, you may have problem with cold solder joints down the line. check your voltage regulator, that SMD cap left of the 2 big ones and the two un the upper board, these have a habit of just crapping out and leaking ( just ask any 80's and 90's Apple machine owners) 80's and 90's caps were terrible from the start and after 40 years will be worse. , warm is fine , hot isn't also check for component shorts in the areas around the rs 45 phone line hookups, (IE: caps, SM poly caps. diodes, and transistors)
If those caps were getting warm as well as bulgy they were definitely going out of spec (high ESR). I hope the overall solution is a fixable / replaceable part!
Yeah I'm thinking after I check all of the voltages and pin connections... Looking for shorts etc.. Then it may be a firmware / rom issue. Just need to get myself a doner rom from somewhere and I don't think that archive has one.
Higher volts for capacitors or the PSU? If PSU that is not wise as it can fry the components. Amps are something that you can definitely go higher on. As for the capacitors, I just went with direct replacements.
Ahhhhh yes, I've been told that. I think in those cases the uF needs to match correct? Meaning a higher voltage rating is ok, however the uF needs to be spot on.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Printed circuit BOARD, so your use of "board" throughout the video was perfectly fine ;)
Haha I just need to stick to one term lol.
I would start by replacing the rest of the capacitors. If those two were bad then they possibly all are, even if the others aren't getting warm. The two caps you replaced were likely the power supply filtering caps, and the other caps are presumably part of the telephone interface, and so could be presenting a voltage or odd signal on the telephone interface that's upsetting the modem if they've failed.
Love this suggestion, would love to get it going again. I'll order more caps!
When you cut component legs put your thumb over legs so they don't fly to next town :) Hope you get it fixed.
Haha! Oops.
0:46 You may not believe it but many wiring closets for businesses still have those. They are plugged into Cisco switches so remote techs can dial in and work on the switch even if the internet is down.
5:47 If your parents had that modem back in the day, you were pretty lucky as they were expensive compared to the ones that were on a card that went into the PC. Hayes set the standard that every manufacture followed to make their modem compatible with the Hayes.
24:54 If you are using Shaw home phone over coax I think you are on a digital line not an analog line. I seem to remember there is a box you have to put between the digital Shaw box and an analog modem to sense the 50 volts DC of a phone line. One time I was doing work on a phone line in my house. I was putting in a wall jack or something I had the live phone cable in my mouth stripping the insulation from the copper with my teeth (I know stupid idea) the phone rang 50 volts DC straight into my mouth, I only did that once. If you have ever put your tongue on a 9 volt battery to test it? Ya, a phone line ringing is 50 times that took a week for taste to come back.
I was able to do the 56k USR dial up video without any issues and connect to NetZero. I use Rogers here in the east. I think the modem is just not coming out of some sort of diagnostic startup mode. I have some great suggestions in the comments that im going to try. Wish me luck!
@@TheRetroRecall I have a US Robotics modem, I have not tested it. @CathodeRayDude set up a phone system in his lab he may have some insight?
It's the "complained about your audio" guy here just to say your sound has been excellent since! :)
Also in your Dell XE video, I figure you already heard that weird USB port is usually for point of sale equipment.
Thanks! A bit of work has gone into the editing software and way I encode the videos.
I have - I think that's pretty neat!
If this is set up like USR modems were (which used some of the same chips), the board with the two TMS320 DSPs is the modem itself, and the main board has the serial interface, AT command processor, data access arrangement (the large transformer near the top) and the power supply. I'm not entirely sure why there are two DSPs instead of just one.
Thanks - I'm going to try to find a schematic of this modem. I'm sure that will help.
As suggested before, try using a terminal program and see if it shows any errors. Maybe try different speeds, in case the modem is in a fail-safe mode;
It could be the eeprom contents are hosed and the settings are in an undefined state, if you can 'talk' to the modem, these are some AT-commands that could reset the modem to factory defaults:
AT&F&C1&D2
and/or
AT&FE1Q0V1X4&C1&D2
Thank you, I'm going to try this.
What an incredible looking modem, good luck with this project. You’ll get it figured out I have faith in you.
Thanks! I have a lot of great support with lots of great suggestions in the comments that will definitely help!
Those blue caps do look suspect. Or sus as the kids say. Anyway, I may have one of those modems in storage. At least, it looks the same. But as you noted, Hayes used the same case design for a series of different models. Worst case, happy to send it to you if wanted. Virtually certain I know exactly where it is in storage but let me check. I once ran a couple different BBS systems and ran through a slew of different modems, finally ending up with a USR Courier as everybody else did. Note for everyone, use caution with the modem power supplies. Many of them are AC output, not DC.
Send me a nice and we can chat :) youtube@bravtech.ca
I had a USR HST 14400 and my friend had the Hayes 9600.... yeah, I remember.
Great memories :)
I didnt have this model of Hayes model but i had one very similar to log into Prodigy and my local BBS back in the day. 👍
Great memories.
Check the voltage coming in from the power supply when it's powering the modem. It's most likely within spec but it's always a good idea to make sure. Also check the supply voltage at the ROM chip.
Thank you, will do! I have a list of things now to try thanks to the amazing supporters of the channel!
Did you try sending commands to the modem from command line? Echo ath0 (zero) >>com1 it should click. Try it with ath1 as well. A term program would be better because the modem will issue responses. The Hayes command set has diagnostics built in.
Perfect. I'm going to try this, thanks!
The stuck RD light will have been picking up noise from the switching power supply circuit which you have now cured with the caps. As others have said there may be error or diagnostic information sent over the serial at power up that you may see with hyperterminal in 98. For next hardware diagnostics the first thing to check is all the voltages, and for that you at least need datasheets for the chips to know what voltages they need, or a schematic that shows you what the voltages should be.
Btw my first modem was the 2400 baud version of this very same type...
Thanks Majenko! I have a list of recommendations from the comments I'm going to try - including this one. Appreciate your help as always :)
It is not my problem but thank you. We need this kind of nerd support. I very much have a likeness for problem solving.
Also, going by the date codes on the chips, it looks this modem was made in early 1993, not 1987.
I was going by the ROM chip as it stated 1987, however that could mean something else. I'll take a look at the other chips when I go to continue troubleshooting.
@@TheRetroRecall The 9600 baud standard wasn't even ratified until 1988, so 1993 is more likely. The 1987 copyright on the ROM chip would be for some of the code which would have been written back then.
when you removed the caps I see alot of corosion around the positive holes. looks like the 2 caps are conected in paralell. use multimeter to make sure both positives have continuity to make sure corosion did not cut that trace .
Good call, I'll test.
It seem the modem doesn't boot up, right? I would try to reseat that daughter board and that IC under it. The two socketed PLCC chips on the daughter card as well. Maybe that helps but I guess there's either some problem with ROM chip itself or it contents got corrupted somehow over the last 30 years (looks like its made in early 1993 according to the datecodes on chips and board) or there's still another fault in the power section. I would check that SMD cap between that Motorola chip UA78540 (still no clue what it does) and the new caps it might leaked as well. And there is an smaller SMD chip there on the edge not sure if you hit it with the vinegar maybe it got some corrosion on the legs.
Thanks! I will add this to the list of recommendations. I plan on trying all of this soon when I get a few moments. Much appreciated!!
There are "Prolific" branded Serial (RS232) to USB adapter cables, in case the PC has USB ports but no Serial port for the dial-up modem. There are also simple USB to RJ11 jack modems available. A U.S. Robotics 56K V.92 fax/data modem would likely be the best option, quality-wise & connection speed wise. USR sometimes made modem firmware updates available. There is PC software that can interface with POTS (plain old telephone service) that can pop-up caller I.D. on your computer screen, initiate a dial-up voice phone call connection from your computer screen, etc. However, wasting further effort on repair of your Hayes 9600 baud modem is probably not worth pursuing.
Thanks for the info, for me as noted in the video I want this working again for nostalgic reasons. It was my first dial up modem. I just did a video on the 56k USR modem last week and it connected just fine with this pc using just a serial cable.
could be bit rot in the rom try taking the rom chip out and reading it in a programmer and compare to a flash dump to see if its different
Awesome suggestion, will do!
there could also be dry joints looking though a microscope should help with that and as you had some bad caps the others could be out of spec but not leaking @@TheRetroRecall
I was thinking about that. Zooming in and pushing each pin / looking for cracks will be a part of list. Thanks again, much appreciated :)
I wonder if people had tried to make mods for make a pc of it idk maybe something that runs cpm dos or Unix. I like the metal chasis tho.
I believe they have modded this unit to convert it to a WiFi modem.
@@TheRetroRecall ok that's cool
Yeah it's a pretty neat project.
PCB= "Printed circuit BOARD" it is a board, and your iron is set too low, you may have problem with cold solder joints down the line. check your voltage regulator, that SMD cap left of the 2 big ones and the two un the upper board, these have a habit of just crapping out and leaking ( just ask any 80's and 90's Apple machine owners) 80's and 90's caps were terrible from the start and after 40 years will be worse. , warm is fine , hot isn't also check for component shorts in the areas around the rs 45 phone line hookups, (IE: caps, SM poly caps. diodes, and transistors)
Thank you!!
If those caps were getting warm as well as bulgy they were definitely going out of spec (high ESR). I hope the overall solution is a fixable / replaceable part!
I hope so too
Isn't the B in PCB standing for Board?
Yes
i had 14.4 modem with 4 AA batteries
Batteries?! Never heard of a modem with batteries.
@@TheRetroRecall it was made for laptop users but i can't remember who made it
That's pretty cool concept.
Maybe read the firmware, it might have faded
Yeah I'm thinking after I check all of the voltages and pin connections... Looking for shorts etc.. Then it may be a firmware / rom issue. Just need to get myself a doner rom from somewhere and I don't think that archive has one.
I'm hoping. Id love to get it working again.
Always go higher volts
Higher volts for capacitors or the PSU? If PSU that is not wise as it can fry the components. Amps are something that you can definitely go higher on. As for the capacitors, I just went with direct replacements.
@@TheRetroRecall I mean capacitors yeah. I always go higher just so it'll last
Ahhhhh yes, I've been told that. I think in those cases the uF needs to match correct? Meaning a higher voltage rating is ok, however the uF needs to be spot on.
@@TheRetroRecall yeah never change uf and if getting new power supply higher amps is always better
Thanks!