Stick Weld Thin Square Tubing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- An informative overview to help you successfully weld thin wall square tubing with shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), also known as stick welding or rod welding.
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You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
Finally - a welding instructor without a chip on his shoulder!
Hard to find nowadays, most think their $hit don't stink.
He must have an amazing wife
He probably has a good chipping hammer.
Have your considered in-house welding classes?
@@oscar.iruegas9972 I did but my carpet kept going on fire
I am very new to welding and every time i watch one of your videos, i feel like i can go out to the shop and lay down a nice bead. You make it look so easy. Hats off to anyone who can truly weld because its definitely a skill that requires some major practice and trial and error. Thanks for sharing all of this great info
I'm also new to welding. My brother has been welding for 25-30 yrs & he's shown & helped my with the basics & turned me loose, giving alot of useful advice on what to do/what not to do, how to do this & that, showing me different bead type running techniques & what to watch for/look for! I've been practicing most everyday out in my shop & having a blast!!!
since I saw your videos i have just stopped looking at any other instructor, I just don't want to learn from anyone else apart from you, i don't even have the words to explain how good you are, thank you so much Tim.
Hi Tim I’m 27 and decided to go back to college to learn welding, currently in my 5th week so far and your videos have been such a great help thank you man 🙏
Your videos are the only ones I have found that actually teaches the best techniques for welding ( at what amperage to put the machine, what rod to use, the angle in which to put your rod, etc.) It really helps a beginner like myself. Thanks a lot!
Something VERY important when welding this thin tubing is FIT. If you have gaps you are in for a very messy time! Grind everything to get the parts to fit with no gap for trouble free results!
Very good advice,fit is half the battle and especially on angle cuts that leave a sharp edge that is thinner again and will give blow through easily.
👏 Absolutely the best welding tutor on TH-cam! Plenty time to explain everything, brilliant videos and in depth explanations
Not a fan of 6013, but you can use it. Harbor Freight has kept 2lb boxes of 1/16" 6013 in stock in recent years. Some of the overseas welders use 3/32" 6013 with a dab-dab technique on thin metal, because that's what they can get. (6013 flux is basically a ceramic and can survive the tropical climate, no small thing.)
They strike the arc at 45deg pushing away from the direction of travel, create the puddle, break the arc, then just as it fades to black, strike it again. You need the angle to push the flux back from the leading edge. You are making a bead of spot welds, but it spreads out the heat, and they make it work!
If you wanted a continous bead you could try 6011 electrode neg.
If you had to do a lot of them, with practice and getting the right settings you could make a decent bead.
I like to use 3/32" 6011 DCEP, and spot weld, that is build up a bead of spot welds. Then I can spread out the heat. That will work on heavy sheet metal too, especially with a copper or aluminum backing block to soak up excess heat.
IF it isn't pretty, "Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't."
Just some ideas, thanks for your videos as always.
Does that not trap the flux when the next tack gets done? Total newbie here but we also mostly get 6013 here where im from in South Africa. Appreciate any help or advice its extremely tricky to weld this thin tubing without burning through and have considered the tacking method .
Thanks
There are lots of videos of the dab-dab technique with 6013 (the smaller the electrode the better, 3/32" (2.4mm) or smaller). 5/64" or 1/16" are better (2.0, 1.6mm) but may cost a lot more, be hard to find, or simply not available.
One reason I prefer 6011, even though it's more aggressive, is it will absolutely burn through any remaining slag. It is also fast freeze.
But you can definitely do it with 6013. I don't think you get slag entrapment, because you use a forty-five degree angle so the arc force pushes the slag away from the leading edge. If you can restrike while the last bead is still hot, the flux should easily melt away. Also, you strike the arc, make a good molten puddle, then break the arc. If you hold the arc too long, you can burn through and you add too much metal and slag. The excess slag will cause trouble.
If you have really thin tubing or sheet metal you might have to do one spot weld at a time, then move several inches, wait a minute, etc., etc.. I think you can do it with a 45 angle, make a puddle then break the arc. You could scrape with a chipping hammer to check for slag.
With this kind of welding, you just try untill you find something that works for you. If you really mess up, and you will, just walk away for a minute, then come back and try something a little different. Best of luck.
@@thomaslewis9526 thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my message. I appreciate the advice and will surely try this out . Thanks again
Really appreciate it. Watched this probably 5 to 7 times in the last few months as I learn to weld thin material. Thanks for the simple and clear instructions
Thank you for your easy to understand, thorough explanations. As a new tig/mig/stick hobby welder simple explanations are so appreciated and very important! Thank you again and keep up the great work! I'll be sure to reach out to you when I run into some snags which I'm sure will.
Marty.
Thank you Tim! You are my go-to welding instructor. I have learned not to click on "professional welders will never show you this!" videos. The comments on your lessons are usually from people with good ideas and tips, and not the negativity you get elsewhere. I won't be taking your course because I simply want to be able to take a stick to small jobs and projects around the house and not get shafted by local lads here in the Philippines who only know how to do dodgy tack welds that fall apart at the first opportunity. Plus I'm clocking 70 and happy just pottering around my house and my garden. Thanks again for your first rate videos.
Great video man. Just one suggestion though. If you could annotate a metric conversion on screen this will help out a lot. Cheers.
Metric is not real
@@james10739 it's better than Imperial. I've grown up with Imperial so it's easier for me to mentally approximate, but metric is totally easier to work with than fractions.
@@marsbase3729 agreed 🤝 👍
@@james10739 ... oh please. Another insular y..k.
@@marsbase3729 your lucky, think about us that never work with fractions. only time we work with fractions is when making threads on pipes.
These imperial measurements are alien to us xD
Bro. Thank you so much. This is the answer that I've been looking for for days now. I don't know what is number with my stick, 'cause it has no number in it, but, I'll just adjust my amperage since I always have burn through. You're the man.
Very helpful as a novice. I appreciate the work you put into these videos. I'm on an old ass ac/dc welder and I've always done the 'dial and try' method to get things started. On old buzz boxes you have to test for sure.
Thanks! Those old welders are bulletproof, though!
I'm just starting to learn how to weld, I want to thank you for these videos as they are teaching me extreamly well.
Hi there my name is Tony and I love your videos I am an above-the-knee amputee I am 44 years old and learning the welding trade thank you for your videos I am learning so much this is a great TH-cam video:-) thank you
I keep watching your videos and one day soon I'm going to pull the trigger and get a machine and just start doing it. Welding is something I've always wanted to learn to do and your videos are great.
Thanks a ton! It can be frustrating at first, but once you get the hang of it, fabrication is so fun!
While there are many good welding videos on youtube I always check your channel first. Very concise! Thank you
by far the best on youtube. i welded in highschool and took welding classes in tech school but kind of forgot most things. just getting back into it and your videos are better then any tech school keep it up great videos and explanations.
Thank you, I have tried stick welding many times but with consistent ugly results
I will follow your instructions for a hope of better skills in the nearest future!
Cheers
I need to do a couple of these joins next week. I don't do a whole lot of welding so this has been a nice clean refresher. Thank you for your help.
Great demonstration, travel speed arc and temp
Much better than those videos on Facebook with the "stacks of tacks". :-)
thankfully for the advice about using trial n error, I had to turn the dial down to "15"amp before it would stop blowing holes in the tube
Dude, you're the best! I'm a total noob when it comes to welding and I just want to do some lightweight stuff in my garden (no heavy construction). Thanks for taking the time to vid/edit and upload, much appreciated.
Everyone should watch your videos. Well done and no BS.
Thanks!
If you’re new to welding and haven’t checked out Tim’s welding courses yet, they’re cheap and super helpful.
I’m not paid to say this 😂just very grateful for finding his channel and courses. They were (and continue to be very helpful) as I’m learning. I’m happy I found this video as I’m hoping to start building my own welding table frame with some tubing I just found.
Thanks a ton! I appreciate that!
Thanks Tim! Helping me step up my decks and fence building game!
Man, I've been looking for a chart like that forever! I was never able to find one that had electrodes, amperage, and material thickness!
I'm glad it helps! I put it together for another video about setting amperage that will come out in a couple weeks.
Hey Tim mate.. Really enjoying these videos my bro. I'm a complete newbie really apart from my metalwork classes when I was 11/12/13 yrs old going to metalwork classes in secondary school over 35 yrs ago.. LOL
I just bought a small inverter stick welder. I was going to plump for one of those MIG/ARC welders but I got this cheaper model to learn to stick weld 1st and hopefully it goes well enough to get me going well enough so I can step up my game. Until then I'll stick to the stick welder and maybe in the next year or so I'll buy me one of the more expensive welders.
My brother in law has a lotta experience with welding so I will pick his brain as well as using the knowledgeable people like ur good self on YT.
It needs to be said again how brilliant u guys on here are. I salute u Tim for putting all this great content up on here in video format. It helps guys like myself out no end my bro. I really appreciate the time it takes to make these videos with all the editing involved in it so much respect my bro. Take care and keep up the great work man..
At last,a honest teacher.Most have been trained to push the fire,wrong.Drag that e6013 is how to get strong welds..you only push fire when youre blowing out rust from the weld path.This guy is correct,drag fire on clean metal.
BEST beginner vids on youtube thank you so much!!
Your a great teacher... I sure do like your approach.... nice... simple... not elaborate... no showing off how pretty your welds are... tho they sure do look good. Very practical. Thank you!
I'm about to weld a trailer hitch receiver to my welding table which has fairly thin tubing so this is helpful! Thank you
Good video Tim!
Even Tig and Mig welding thin tubing can be challenging also...
Love your Tombstone arc welder, Tim. Great lesson!
Excellent, thank you very much for all your tutorials they really helped me ALOT!! A great hug from Portugal !!!
Great to hear!
hello mate much respect from across the pond in Britain :) your channel is easily the best most professional and informative of any on TH-cam dude.
i have just purchased a very cheap 100amp arc welder and mask and am very interested in learning this amazing skill.
i want to build and alter motorcycle frames ebike frames in future so your videos are absolutely excellent my friend.
Well presented topic. You have given me some confidence to take this welding to greater heights! Thanks
Been using tig for my 1/16 square tubing, its slow and argon eating so Ive been trying to stick weld , 1/16 6013 @ 45 amps DCEN, hard to start ,
Going to try your way 3/32 AC ,thanks great movie.
Natural teacher. Good presentation.
Beautiful welds Tim...I would have blown a hole through that, for sure! I'll try on thicker tube to start.
Thanks! It takes a bit of practice, but you can get the hang of it.
Nice. I tried welding for the first time - with the help of your vids unfortunately none of my welds look like that lol thank you for uploading your info. My welds could’ve been way worse. I’ll keep at it
I'm glad I find this video I have a project coming up when I have to weld razor blades together this will comes in handy....
This was literally my weld test for a job but for mig. Thank god.
my ac welder has those shunts to adjust the amperage. but when i lower ot to 55 amps, it make a lot of noise. it welds fine but the noise is so annoying. your videos have helped me alot to start welding,👍
Thank you so much Tim, I needed this video, I’m welding a 14 gauge square tubing for my project 👍
I haven't used my powerarc to stick weld in a very long time. I remember how difficult it was to weld thin stuff when I was starting out.
Really helpful pointers for a newbie like me. Thanks a ton.
For me it gets a bit more challenging to avoid blowing holes through the weld when doing an end to end joint like a mitre joint. The fillet joint tends to be a bit more forgiving because you are welding up against the side of the tubing.
Man I used to make a living TIG and MIG welding thin wall aluminum pipe and screens, that was 17 years ago, thank you for this video, Im welding again building things for personal use and damned if I didnt have to look for some help, thank you
Thanks!
great video,i just started learning thank you for your advice..
Golden! Thanks!! Greetings from Patagonia Chile!!!
Great video Tim! Right now I have a project and I’m using thin wall square tubing. But I can’t weld continuously because the amount of heat will make holes on the tubes so basically I tack weld all the joints.
I’m welding on 1.52 mm material and around 60 amps.
Thanks for the great video and helpful information.
Sometimes just tacking them is enough. You may need to travel faster or run a smaller electrode on a little lower current. Also, one thing I forgot to mention in the video, it can be helpful to let the material cool a little between each weld, because if the metal is hot to start with, you'll be more likely to burn through.
If you are doing something like a series of tacks all besides each other, that actually takes quite a bit of skill. You might try 1/16" 6011 with AC, or 1/16" 6010 DC electrode positive at 40-45 amps. The flux is less likely to be trapped.
@@mark6092 thanks for the info. I am not familiar with the English welding terms but I’ll add a link so you can check out what I’m talking about. th-cam.com/video/_4FpfQSTlEo/w-d-xo.html
@@kylecordero6386 1.6mm 6011 rod using Direct Current electrode positive, or Alternating Current if that is not available. From what I understand 6010 is not as commonly found outside the USA. It leaves less flux, burns through and floats previous flux better, and starts easier than 6013 rods.
I operated on a square tube using 2.5mm 6013 at 80 amps n ended up making a lot of holes! Already melted down n completely destroyed 30 ft. tube!
Hi Tim, thanks for the video, will be of great help.
Good video Tim, I've just borrowed A Parweld XTS 143 to weld some tubing, l used 2.4 rods, and got good results using the DC set, my Clarke AC set l just sold and ordered the Parweld XTS 143 such a big difference to using AC
Love your videos Tim. They're so helpful. Thanks so much! ;)
Setup and ran perfectly! Thanks for making these great videos.
Can't wait to learn more so I can build my own recreational park.
Good video for the majority of intermediate welders. But the 6013 runs smoother using DC electrode negative if available.
Totally! I usually run electrode positive on stick, but electrode negative would work great on this thinner stuff, giving less penetration and letting you move along really fast. Great tip!
@@TimWelds Electrode negative will result in higher temperature on the material (due to the electron flow from - to +) and so bigger penetration in material - isn´t it?
@@mladenfrank2613 I think DCEN generally is thought to put more heat into the electrode and less into the base metal. Thus running an open root with 7018 is generally easier on dcen rather than dcep. the electrode is hotter and the base metal is cooler. Same with flux core mig. it is run dcen so the electrode gets more preheat of the flux in the wire.
@@mladenfrank2613
Current flow is not just electrons, there is also the molten metal that carries positive charge in the opposite direction. Because the atoms are accelerated consistently in one direction on DC, they also _develop kinetic energy_ in one direction and dump that heat into the metal they are colliding with.
@@peetky8645 could a smaller rod 7018 be run on dcen at a lower amperage to weld thin metal?
Thanks Tim, hopefully going to be able to apply this to my lack of technique & stop blowin’ holes in shit haha
Ur videos are very detailed. Thank you so much bro
Thanks! When my machine comes that will be my first challenge.
I do use 1/16" electrodes on bike tubing. I cut them in half and use them short, because autherwise they are too limp to control. If you cut the electrode in the middle, and clean both ends for the clamp, one will already have the correct end on it. And the other has a part with bare rod sticking out of it. Clip that off right to the flux and one has two usable rods.
Here is a very simple trick for you that will change your welding skills on thin metal forever, combined with what you have said! Try it and see for yourself...Switch your poles (negative & positive) on your welder! Simple as that...Just try it and see the improvement. It arks to the electrode and not from it, thus not burning holes in your work piece.
So, dcen instead of dcep?
So to sum up a little bit- less than 30 amps for 1mm of stick. So 2mm stick means 55 amps on the welding machine. I always did 40 per 1mm, and I have many holes sometimes. With less you may have issues to raise an arc.
Thank you for the tips!
Great video! Thanks Tim. I’m learning on a little Kutcher welder, on running on 110.. you’re a great teacher man, I’d sure love it if you did a vid on using a Klutch!
Awesome man thank you for sharing I just started a project and blew holes all over the place! With balls of pigeon poop! LOL!😂 I will practice for now and use the correct rods...
Your videos are the best.
ive been welding for 30 years and making bird poop for 30 years in ever increasing splodges. finally a teacher that takes his time and shows you with a good camera what he is actually doing. at time 7:00 for you, you knew what you were doing so you went back a little, got the bead going and then pulled the "puddle" . for us 30 year old poopers, thats where we have been doing it wrong all along. so, im gonna get some 6013, get a welding machine with a dial that will do 40amps, measure the amps and see this "puddle" thing you do that i have not been able to do for 30 years
Thank you so much man, your videos are excellent and well made.
Oh... So it's 60amps... Will try this, very helpful video...
I appreciate your videos, thanks for for the guidance.
If you pay attention. He is John wick.
Very helpful tutorial, Keep up the good work
best welding tutor
I'm welding some 1/8" box tubing with 3/32" 7018 for a truck tailgate replacement project. I'm finding you have to skoot along pretty quick. I also blew out my corners on the 45 miters, so I gotta fix that. Would be cool to see how you recover from blowing out big holes? I'm using a pecking technique kinda trial and error. Many thanks for taking the time to drop scholarship on your approach. It's a good skill to have.
I'm welding up a 5 steps with rails to a metal landing that I'm also welding. What thickness and size square tubing am I required by code to use. THANK YOU! LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thx mate, i just got my stick welder and i think my first test project will be a thin wall elecrode holder
Awesome!
Thanks. I am learning.
Thank you thank you thank you very informative. Thank you
Tim, I'm a newbie on stick. I picked up some 5/64" 7014, I did ok with it on 16 ga @ 45 amps, dcep. My welder is an amico arc-160.
i got the same machine
So try 7018 rod for clean metal and if welding through rust or paint use 6011 rod. Try to find an Miller thunderbolt 220 welder you can typically find an deal on Craigslist. The size of the rod allows you to either raise the amps up for more heat or down for less and that depends on the size and type of metal your welding so use smaller rod for thinner and bigger rod for thicker metals. I use these two types of rod on most prodjects and jobs and they are standard rods commonly used.
@@wrightsrrt871 you cannot weld that joint with 7018, maybe the fillet but not the j groove .the man just showed you how with 6013 because it a shallow pentrating rod with a short arc length, 6011 is a fast freeze rod with deep penetration
Are you a farm welder?
@@brianpatrick8441 yes I weld on an farm also been to college for welding and have been welding for over 16 plus years stopped counting at 14 years cause what dose it matter after so long how many years. I dont ride coat tails I do many things like ranch hand welding also have welded catalytic converters in cars with stick which is thin metal and I was told it's not possible but thats just me and people are allowed to belive what they want to 7018 was introduced to me in my welding class as used for clean metal and 6011 was introduced to me as used for rusted and painted metal. They kept it simple but I do understand there's also hard facing rods and rods for all kinds of things. I was only stating that those are the rods I use on an regular basis for majority of things and I have many 1500 pound pluss animals pushing against the welds I've done and they've been there for some over 10 years. Never said I was an pro either but I do dam good job and take pride in my work. Good day to you though sir and hope you find closure in my answer as yes im an ranch welder but also an college educated ranch welder so I guess you could say am I certified well no cause I don't need to be to make money welding cattle fence!
I really don’t understand why you’ve not got more subscribers?
Tim's the man. He will resch more subscribers in time.
Just a quick question. Are you getting headaches on the left side? You have your head tilted that way and it often will indicate headaches there. If so see a chiropractor and they will help with the headaches.
Thanks👍. Everyone is doing Mig going to get A stick welder I think they are still nice to work with. Or one that will do both
Thanks Tim jimmy Aust nice tips
Thank you for showing me!
I always use mig on thin wall but I think it's a good practice makes perfect skill test.
Thank you, a very helpful video. I didn't know that a longer arc length created a hotter welding condition, this is with a "buzz box", right?
With an inverter welder with dig turned on, arc force is increased by a tight arc gap so, I'm thinking that dig should be set to off or very low when maintaining a tight arc with an inverter welder.
1st video viewed and loved it. If you could possibly put a little bit more effort for us who are struggeling (e.g. due to my low welding level, I find easier to use "coin to coin" techique on 2mm material thicknees to prevent holes, so your video is motivating for me):
1. show position of stick in all views (side and top) without striking the arc
2. show movement of electrode without striking the arc
3. put welding parameters in video description
THX
4. For choosen parameters, did you drive the electrode on the "thicker" side of parts or in center of the meeting line of the parts?
5:44 10° but in 6:15 it seems more like 45°?
5:58 45°in the top view and what about side view?
If you can weld a coin, you should be able to run a bead, just drop your rod angle, move really fast, and if the metal is very thin or the weld quite long, do intermittent inch long welds several inches apart along the joint, then return to the end of the first weld and add another inch to each.
Great video and channel!
Great video! When you could, can you do a 45 degree square joint of 16 or 18 gauge galvanized square/rectangular Tubing? You mentioned in another video that you use a quick pass trick with 6011/10. Thanks
Thanks my very first attempt was square tubing like this Ave lots of burn through lol
Hi I have never welded, i've been looking at,all in one pistol welder, what do you think of them, all i will be doing is welding tubing for motor bike seat frames . Thank you, PS I think your videos are great and well explained.
I'm planning to learn to weld this year and I've been watching dozens of how-to videos in preparation for when I get my machine. Something I keep hearing is "keep a tight arc" but nobody ever explains exactly what that means. It's hard to see in the video, and it's not really described how it's accomplished. What exactly do you do with the end of the stick? Do you drag it along the metal? Do you hold it so that it hovers a few millimeters above the metal? I'd be very grateful if you'd tell us. THX
Yea the keep it the arc length tight "Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material" found through Google's via Miller welds website.
So essentially keep it the thickness of the electrode but it this instant it may pay to be in the closer side but all depending on your welder set up and travel speed ect.
As a newbie myself and home YT self teaching, the arc length in stick is harder when you are just starting out. I got frustrated just attempting to strike an arc and not a bunch of stuck electrodes and arc strikes. Best thing that I did to get better was “GO THICKER MATERIAL “ like 1/8 “ or 1/4” just run beads on plate or corner angles. The thicker material takes longer to heat up and will give you a chance to strike arc, figure out what your seeing by “weld pool” and then in that split second get moving AND slightly lowering your rod as its burning up as filler!!! Way more difficult than MIG. As the material comes out the gun. I did successfully tack weld a cheap metal fence post with the metal plates on them to stabilize them. The practice on thicker helped as the thin stuff will help you be frustrated by the hole blowing.....cheers and happy practicing when you get your welder.
The first reply to your question is a good one. Also, note that 6013 is often called a "contact electrode" because when everything is dialed-in right, you get good results when actually dragging the electrode along so it contacts the base metal via its coating (with the electrode at a typical angle, this creates a bit of a gap between the metal of the electrode and the base metal). That's not a hard-and-fast rule, because you'll find out that there are times you need a longer arc than that, but it shows that deliberately holding the end of the electrode with a sizable gap away from the base metal is usually not correct.
My DC welder goes down to 50 amps, I generally use 1/16 rod at that setting, but never tried 6013x3/32.
Nice I have a welder like your very old have it a couple of years
Hi Tim great job on instruction. I was wondering about vertical and overhead Thanks Shellback 70