Are you allowed to do a S trap like you did? I was thinking the piece connecting had to be a minimum of 4" in between in order to not create a s-trap instead of a p trap.
A “S” trap usually is when they just make and S shape but there is no venting. So the piece I have going vertical is a dedicated vent for that drain specifically. If I had no vent on it then it’d be what most call and S trap and those are no good as the “P” part of the trap doesn’t work the way it should by trapping the sewer gas. But this pipe will vent properly and still hold the water down in the P trap. Its really just a regular P trap laundry drain with a little kink to Shift the vertical parts right.
@FortKnoxCo could be right. I was always told the little piece you cut to go between the sani-tee and the other piece of the p trap has to be double the kenth of the thickness of the pipe, which would be 4 inches in this case or it could cause the p trap to get sucked dry. Its in the National Plumbing code.
@@Jgwoodworks1623 after a little research it is recommended or code that you do twice the diameter of the pipe. If you have no vent they usually call that a S trap. But if you have a vent and it’s within the double diameter of the pipe distance then it’s referred to a “Crown” vent. Way back in the day they would have a S trap and have a vent literally on top of the second bend and that’s why they called it a Crown vent. It doesn’t guarantee failure but it was found to be less effective if keeping the water in the P trap. You need a little bit of pressure regulation in the pipes so the vent shouldn’t be too close to the P trap. So they moved to the double the diameter rule to help that. What I have is pretty close but not a formal Crown vent. Since I’ve used an actual Sani T and the two pieces have the pipe sleeves to receive the connecting piece it almost gives me the flat distance I need to the vent. Cutting it close.
Yeah, I came here to say that exact thing. For others, a couple more inches of pipe to make sure you don't fail inspection and have to cut all that out.
@@bluegorillacookies yeah I agree, I wouldn’t have made such a tight set up if I didn’t have to. But the area I was working with was very minimal. Had to make it work and I passed my inspections. 🤙🏼
Yep! I’m about to run my gas line into the structure and set the tankless mount. I have the water lines already plumbed for the water heater in place. Where the main water line splits to cold and hot. I’ll be showing that in detail in some upcoming videos
My sister and I installed..or tried to install our very first box. It went well until it was time to hook up the water to the box. Turns out we need a crimping tool which we do not have. Instead of that, my sister got sharkbite fittings. We hooked them up, but they leaked. The tube from the valve is like a pvc type tube and it is not long enough to reach the seal on the sharkbite, that is why it leaks. Any recommendations?
I’m not familiar with the boxes that have Pex coming off of it. You can get a box that has shark bit type connections on it I believe, so you could just push your pipe/pex into the fittings on the box. Or get the correct adapters to make a good connection. But yes, if you don’t have the shark bite/push on connections on correctly and fully inserted it will leak.
2 quick questions.. What’s the word on those little vent fittings that can eliminate a legit vent stack? Are they good enough for a small washing machine? And second question is about the trap. Does it have to have a min run to the San Tee? Or can it just be snugged right up on it?
Are you referring to something like a Studor Mini-Vent? Yes they can handle a vent requirement. If you look on whatever brand /style you are going to get they have a rating on them. Some are good for a certain amount of rod DFU’s ( drainage fixture-Units). So like a sink or a toilet or a shower equal a certain # of DFU’s. So they can handle that amount of fixtures on a single vent line. So they do work in place of a true vent out the roof. Commonly used in renovations. Just make sure they adequate air flow, you don’t want to box them in a wall. As far as the P-trap to the Sani T transition, they can be one right after the other. They can be close. Your main concern is the drop to the ptrap. You usually need 24” drop to the ptrap for high flow fixtures like a washing machine. And you don’t want a vent pipe off the top of that transition. It can be right off the sani T obviously, but not a “crown vent” which was common I a long time ago. Most codes don’t allow crown vents anymore.
@@FortKnoxCo I didn’t complete my comment, what I was saying you did mention the waterlines were coming from above, but then, as you started to initially install the washer box you had the valves in the wrong position, as though they were going to come up from the bottom, then the video showed you going to remounting the box. That’s fine I enjoyed the video, you explained things well, I have left the box in traditional installation, take my waterlines and made a bend and came in from the bottom, that was without using 90s. Either way all good. Plumb on my fellow plumber!!
@@jamessells8440 oh yeah. I got ya. I initially screwed it in “upside down”. But when I took it off to install the last pipe and re mount I installed it the correct way u needed it. I appreciate it. 🤙🏼
Are you allowed to do a S trap like you did? I was thinking the piece connecting had to be a minimum of 4" in between in order to not create a s-trap instead of a p trap.
A “S” trap usually is when they just make and S shape but there is no venting. So the piece I have going vertical is a dedicated vent for that drain specifically. If I had no vent on it then it’d be what most call and S trap and those are no good as the “P” part of the trap doesn’t work the way it should by trapping the sewer gas.
But this pipe will vent properly and still hold the water down in the P trap. Its really just a regular P trap laundry drain with a little kink to
Shift the vertical parts right.
@FortKnoxCo could be right. I was always told the little piece you cut to go between the sani-tee and the other piece of the p trap has to be double the kenth of the thickness of the pipe, which would be 4 inches in this case or it could cause the p trap to get sucked dry. Its in the National Plumbing code.
@@Jgwoodworks1623 after a little research it is recommended or code that you do twice the diameter of the pipe. If you have no vent they usually call that a S trap. But if you have a vent and it’s within the double diameter of the pipe distance then it’s referred to a “Crown” vent. Way back in the day they would have a S trap and have a vent literally on top of the second bend and that’s why they called it a Crown vent. It doesn’t guarantee failure but it was found to be less effective if keeping the water in the P trap. You need a little bit of pressure regulation in the pipes so the vent shouldn’t be too close to the P trap. So they moved to the double the diameter rule to help that. What I have is pretty close but not a formal Crown vent. Since I’ve used an actual Sani T and the two pieces have the pipe sleeves to receive the connecting piece it almost gives me the flat distance I need to the vent. Cutting it close.
Yeah, I came here to say that exact thing. For others, a couple more inches of pipe to make sure you don't fail inspection and have to cut all that out.
@@bluegorillacookies yeah I agree, I wouldn’t have made such a tight set up if I didn’t have to. But the area I was working with was very minimal. Had to make it work and I passed my inspections. 🤙🏼
Will you be doing a tankless water heater install possibly?
Yep! I’m about to run my gas line into the structure and set the tankless mount. I have the water lines already plumbed for the water heater in place. Where the main water line splits to cold and hot. I’ll be showing that in detail in some upcoming videos
My sister and I installed..or tried to install our very first box. It went well until it was time to hook up the water to the box. Turns out we need a crimping tool which we do not have. Instead of that, my sister got sharkbite fittings. We hooked them up, but they leaked. The tube from the valve is like a pvc type tube and it is not long enough to reach the seal on the sharkbite, that is why it leaks. Any recommendations?
I’m not familiar with the boxes that have Pex coming off of it. You can get a box that has shark bit type connections on it I believe, so you could just push your pipe/pex into the fittings on the box. Or get the correct adapters to make a good connection. But yes, if you don’t have the shark bite/push on connections on correctly and fully inserted it will leak.
Nice work
Thank you!
What are the code requirements.
Usually a 24” drop from the opening to the p-trap. That’s the main thing. Have a long enough drop.
2 quick questions..
What’s the word on those little vent fittings that can eliminate a legit vent stack? Are they good enough for a small washing machine?
And second question is about the trap. Does it have to have a min run to the San Tee? Or can it just be snugged right up on it?
Are you referring to something like a Studor Mini-Vent? Yes they can handle a vent requirement. If you look on whatever brand /style you are going to get they have a rating on them. Some are good for a certain amount of rod DFU’s ( drainage fixture-Units). So like a sink or a toilet or a shower equal a certain # of DFU’s. So they can handle that amount of fixtures on a single vent line. So they do work in place of a true vent out the roof. Commonly used in renovations. Just make sure they adequate air flow, you don’t want to box them in a wall.
As far as the P-trap to the Sani T transition, they can be one right after the other. They can be close. Your main concern is the drop to the ptrap. You usually need 24” drop to the ptrap for high flow fixtures like a washing machine. And you don’t want a vent pipe off the top of that transition. It can be right off the sani T obviously, but not a “crown vent” which was common I a long time ago. Most codes don’t allow crown vents anymore.
wait the water was coming in from the too 🙄
The Water lines in this structure are ran through the rafters in the ceiling. Everything drops into the walls where needed.
@@FortKnoxCo I didn’t complete my comment, what I was saying you did mention the waterlines were coming from above, but then, as you started to initially install the washer box you had the valves in the wrong position, as though they were going to come up from the bottom, then the video showed you going to remounting the box. That’s fine I enjoyed the video, you explained things well, I have left the box in traditional installation, take my waterlines and made a bend and came in from the bottom, that was without using 90s. Either way all good. Plumb on my fellow plumber!!
@@jamessells8440 oh yeah. I got ya. I initially screwed it in “upside down”. But when I took it off to install the last pipe and re mount I installed it the correct way u needed it. I appreciate it. 🤙🏼
You should have moved the stud over. Cannot have an s trap
💯