Wow, thanks! My E string was so quiet I almost took it to the music shop to get repaired, but your tip about loosening the strings and tuning the quiet string first worked 🙌🎵
I'm glad that worked! I always try loosening the strings first since it helped on my Wanderer. I never had to do this operation on that particular U-Bass. Thank you for watching!
As a tool guy, I would say never use a knife as a pry bar. (I’ve broken the tips off of a couple of knives.) OMG, sawing with a knife ! Living dangerously!
Just bought a Kala U-bass from Uke Republic and I didn't tighten the strings correctly, so the bottom 2 strings weren't getting picked up due to over-tension on the upper 2 strings. Loosened them all, retightened them from the bottom up and "voila"! the pickup works like a charm on all the strings! Thanks to your video! I was intimidated with plan B!!
Can I ask tedphillips74 ... what did U mean by upper and lower strings??? Upper meaning the strings close 2 U? Or upper as in higher pitch sounding string G? I have a Kala UBass that I'm about 2 chuck out the window cuz of this string/pickup problem! And I'm dreading the saddle cutting.
I tried all manner of adjusting, retuning and moving the strings across that saddle but nothing was able to correct the very low output of the D and G strings. Finally took the pickup off, cut the segments apart, removed the dried glue crap on the tops of the pickups, lightly sanded the segment bottoms flat and reassembled it. Output is high and perfect across ALL the strings now and it sounds excellent. Thanks for the fix demo I was getting sour on this little guy.
Thanks for this. I needed to put on new strings and decided to give it a try. Not having played a string instrument prior to my purchase of the Kala U-Bass 3 years ago, I did not notice any imbalance across the strings. My plucking fingers just accommodated the differences. Now with the surgery done, not only do I notice the more consistent volume, but the whole bass plays and sounds much better. It plays fuller and deeper, a more open sound. And I don't think it's the new strings as I've changed strings twice before (same Thunderblack model each time) and there was no change in the sound quality or play-ability. Whatever the explanation, I'm very pleased.
Okay I had this assembly in bits today and fixed a quiet E string by going 2/3 of the way through the connection between E and A saddle with a triangular file, and by filing a half mm off the bottom of the end tab so the end cap doesn't deaden the saddle. much quicker, easier and safer than the knife, and going only partway through prevents the added difficulty in reassembly. I find that I can pry the whole assembly out by getting a poky thing into the gap under the saddles.
Thanks so much for this,along with all your wonderful advice and vids. My quiet quiet G string is now thundering along with all the others just by slackening all the strings and tuning the G first. It’s made such a difference. Goldtone Microbass fitted with wound strings.
You heard it here first. Stephen Cox is the Crocodile Dundee of Bass Ukeleles. Thanks for attacking that bass with a huge knife so noone else has to! Actually a really helpful video! For those of us who are less into huge knives than Stephen, use a prying tool from a smartphone kit for prying, and a microsaw or skalpel for cutting.
Great video! I tried on the same day as getting my Kala U-bass. Was very disappointed about the low volume of the E-string. You can easily test if your U-bass is suffering from this issue: Press hard on the E-string right above the saddle. If you hear a "click" noise when doing this, it shows that there is no tight contact between the saddle and the piezo. I used this video as reference for the modification, but I only cut the saddle between the E string and the A string (using a proper saw :-) and left the other three sections together, because only the E-string had a volume issue. That immediadetly removed the issue! The e-string is still a little "wobbly" due to its thickness, but the volume is now nearly the same as the other strings. If Kala reads this: Please fix it, it is definitely a design flaw.
Or.. you can slightly detune the non conforming string and then retune it as you pull up on the string directly above the saddle simultaneously placing the string over and on the saddle while retaining the tension. The object being to increase the downward pressure of the string atop the saddle. If that doesn’t work out then try to move the string slightly to one side or the other while applying firm pressure to the saddle below the string. You can test the output by tapping lightly on the saddle with your fingertip and monitor the changes and differences while making the aforementioned adjustments. Hope this helps.
just wanted to follow up. I got a new hadean solid body. the a string was close to inaudible on it. I did this mod. my saddle was not attached to the bridge which made this a lot easier. sounds much much better now. thanx!
Thanks so much for this post! I've had my Kala Ubass for a few years now but have only played it acoustically until recently and was really disappointed when I amplified it and found that the E and G strings just couldn't be heard. I tried loosening all the strings and tightening those two up first which made a very small difference but after agonising for a couple of days I went ahead with the "procedure" outlined in your video. It was very easy, took about 15 minutes in total and has transformed the sound from my Ubass. THx again
Here is the test I used to see if I needed this mod. Pluck the g string for a reference on volume. Then with your thumb nail press down on the g string bridge to seat the bridge on the pickup and check the volume. Mine increased about 30-40%. To avoid the four piece bridge "dance" I just cut off the g string seat on the bridge. I also flattened where the bridge seats on the pickup, they were uneven. Thanks for helping to solve this issue!
Came back to say that when I tried your tip. I couldn’t hear any difference the day I did it. So I simply gave up. And today 1 year after, I decided to plug the bass and all the strings volume were even. I then went to play for 3 hours and all everything sounds good! So I’m betting that It needs time to all the strings sit properly.
Stephen, This video came at just the right time! A few months ago, I bought a red Journeyman. When it arrived it had round wound strings - damn, should have read the spec better, the wood coloured one had the rubber strings. Anyhow I wanted rubber so I got a set of Aquila Thunderguts. Fitted them with a little drilling and filing of the nut and all went well. Then quite recently I was having issues with a quiet A string. Fiddled with knobs on the amp but could never get the volume up on the A. So I refitted the round wounds and the volumes on all strings are now acceptable. So short of taking a bowie knife and nail file to the pick ups, I guess I’ll stay with the round wounds. It may even give me an excuse to buy a solid bodied bass with rubber strings. Great vids, keep ‘em coming. 👴🏻
Cheers Alan, the round wounds have higher tension, so it makes sense that they might not have as much of an issue. I like the idea if getting a solid body bass uke as well...one day I will. Cheers!
I did this on my bass uke. Pryed the saddle/pickup out , disassembled it, and used a hack saw to cut almost all the way through. I left just enough material to keep the pieces connected. I don't think it's optimal to cut all the way through. Before the process, the D string sounded horrible, now it sounds great through the amp. Each segment can settle down onto its pickup as there's plenty of flex but all the segments are stabilized by the remaing material
I did it yesterday and it works perfectly. To be honest, it's easier that it seems watching you doing it. I used a good cutter and cutting was fast and precise. Thanks you very much for your video.
If you want to file the end of something like that but lack the tool, you can also find some relatively smooth concrete, and rub it on that to smooth it down.
Hi Stephen, watched your video on the bass ukulele saddle modification, I've got Batking bass with steel strings , so I did exactly what you did and got to say absolutely brilliant, made such a difference especially on the G string, love your lessons keep up the good work. Cheers Pete , England 😊
I have a Hadean u-bass which has (had) low-volume on the e-string. After watching this video, I started to try this fix. I got the strings off and took out the saddle, but the way mine is constructed I couldn't figure out a way to take the saddle/tray apart without cutting the wiring (which I did not want to do). Therefore, I could not test this approach to fixing the uneven volume problem. So, on the assumption that the problem is poor contact between the saddle and the sensor, I took a pair of pliers and squeezed the e-string end of the saddle/tray assembly. (it appeared to move a bit. I also noticed some crud in the bridge slot, so I cleaned this out with a q-tip and then re-assembled the bridge. The e-string volume is now as loud as the other strings, and the problem seems solved to me without having to do major surgery. Thinking about this further, the logic behind cutting apart the saddle does not really make sense to me. Nearly all instruments with piezo pickups use solid saddles without this problem, so I don't think this is an inherently flawed approach. I think the issue is QC in how these bass ukea and their pickups are assembled, and at least for me the fix proved much simpler. Googling around a bit, I found a number of references to cleaning the bridge slot fixing the problem, which (to me, anyway) confirms my hunch about this being an assembly problem rather than a design problem. Cutting the bridge saddle apart may indeed work because it does result in better contact between the saddle and the sensor, but I think there's an easier way to achieve this (i.e., compressing the saddle/tray a little and cleaning out the slot).
That's good to know! I would definitely recommend to try that first to anyone now that I know. However, I think the issue is sometimes that the rubber/polyurethane strings don't have the tension that other strings do. It is less of an issue with metal strings. On my Wanderer, I fixed the problem by simply loosening and tightening the strings in a certain order. The method in this video should definitely be a "last resort" option.
@@stephencoxbass it works! I used a mini saw to cut through then sanded down the edges a bit put it in place and voilá I can hear my G string and the D string is not deafening anymore! We'll have to be careful not to lose chunks of the saddle when changing strings though!
Thank you for this video. My cheap Carlo Robelli Ubass has the same string volume problem, and another issue-- the piezo pickup cuts out sometimes...I have to bang the saddle to bring back individual strings. Any suggestions on how to correct this? I exchanged this model three times at Sam Ash, same issues on all three basses. A friend's Donner U-bass has these issues, too.
I'm not familiar with that issue. It could be a short of some sort. Are the batteries brand new? If so, it might be time to try a different brand. Although, I had one of their acoustic electric full scale basses and never had any pickup issues. It may just be a quirk with the pickup they used. Thanks for watching!
It seems like the end cap is to attach the saddle to the pickup. Since the end caps will only hold the outer two pickups in place, and only as long as they are pushed toward the outside, I think the end caps no longer serve a function, unless it would look bad without them.
I think they still help to keep the outer 2 saddle pieces in place, which provides a bit of stability to the inner ones as well (less wiggle room). Cheers!
@9:49, when you do the play test, you only play the low E string for one note. Would be better to hear more of the Low E with the other strings as this seems to be the predominant issue.
Ok, I’ve had a Kala u bass for 3 years now the mahogany acoustic with tort a shell binding. The E string was always a lower volume than all the other strings. After much research here’s what I found and how I corrected the problem today. I have the black solid saddle, the one with no perforated slots in it. 1st I took all the strings off ( The original black poly strings ) I removed the saddle, left it connected. I noticed on the bridge under the saddle there was a small groove, but only went from the bottom of the bridge to about 3/4 of the way up to the E string. So, I figured the saddle wasn’t sitting correctly on the bridge therefore not allowing the E string to seat properly. So I got a piece of sandpaper and shaped it to the groove that was in the bridge. Slowly making the top part of the saddle ( next to the E string ) to match evenly across. I then made sure the saddle fit flush against the bridge. Re-strung the strings ( Tuning the E string first ) then the other strings one at a time. No more problem, the E string is now at the same volume as all the other strings. This definitely does the job. It’s not hard, just take your time when sanding down the bridge. This is definitely the fix. Hope it helps someone. I love the Kala u bass, but this was driving me crazy. Now it’s nothing but enjoyment.
That's great that you found a solution for the U-Bass with the different saddle/pick up! I've heard others complain about this issue specifically, and I hope they find your answer helpful as I've had little advice with that set up. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
@@stephencoxbass Yes, thanks for your response. It was driving me crazy but I’ve been playing for over 40 years and fell in love with this little thing. It really was an easy fix, I called Kala yesterday about something else and started telling them what bass I had and what it was doing and told them how I rectified the problem and they said they did have some issues with that type of saddle and told me I did the right thing the right way. ( Go Figure ) lol. But like I said once I fixed the problem I fell in love all over again. Now I’m waiting for the new Kala California u bass to come back. They told me they have worked out some bugs on the new models and they should be releasing them soon. Can’t wait. Thanks again for your response.
Thank you so much!!!! it works!! I solved it!! After cutting the edge, the A string was a bit quieter.. I've just moved it's piece of edge a bit to the sides and walaaa! :)
Thanks Stephen for this fix and as usual in your style very clearly illustrated, also including what tools not to use. Ha! I will be doing the same to my fretless hollow bodied one soon. What bass amplification set up do you use for small to medium gigs? May you keep on the sunny side. Vince
I'm glad I could help! For the weddings, I'm using a Fender Rumble 200 amp. For the live streams, I use a TC Electronic BG 250 as of late. Cheers, Vince!
I would mark the string name and orientation onto the bottom of each of the four saddle pieces before I cut them, since mixing them up could affect intonation.
Good call! Also, some people recommend not cutting them completely apart, or taping them together on the bottom. I heard those ideas after this video…haha.
I've been playing bass on and off for 20 years and I only last month bought a string winder--because I have been mass-loosening and tightening the strings on my U-Bass while trying to troubleshoot this issue.
Where did you get that amazing multitool that does all those jobs? 😱 (My favourite position you did was using a hunting knife to pry off a plastic cap from a very sensitive pickup whilst reaching around a live condenser mic)
Can i ask your opinion (since you're here and someone that knows ubasses!) I found a good deal on an old kala ubass, the first (i think solid mahogany body?) run without the preamp/tuner, so just passive piezo (and i believe with no truss rod) on ebay. I wondered if you thought it matters about the truss rod? Since the string tension is so low and the neck is so chunky. I've not read anything about neck stability problems with these, again i guess because of the shortness and chunkyness of the neck. ?
Hi What if i have a kala u bass smhg mahogny with a brown solid plastic piece with the mic strip glued underneath. If I cut to 4 parts and spare a couple of mm...do you think It will work? Therese is noway taking apart the mic strip and the bridge, its just one piece... Jonas
Hi Jonas, I'm really not sure, but I'd guess it's not the best solution for that style of pickup. I personally would not recommend it. Thanks for watching Stephen
Great Demo video as always. Here is the Questions: Did you have the problems with that particular Fretless Uke Bass that this technique was supposed to fix, and if you did what string/s were you having that issue with?, and did this technique actually fix it for good? My personal issue is not so much volume on my cheaper Donner Uke Bass when playing acoustically or through the Amp, but getting the F string and sometimes the A to register with the built in tuner for tuning the Uke Bass. I have to really pluck those strings hard and sometimes mess with the EQ or volume just to tune those strings. Now if I take that same Donner Uke Bass and bypass the built in tuner and use my Korg Pedal tuner to tune those strings since Amp volume is not an issue, then all is ok tuning wise. Shows you that even hough how Uke Basses can sound similar with the same/similar sting setup, that you can totally tell the quality of one Uke Bass from another just by playing it no matter what wood is used to make the Uke Bass Laminate or Not. You know what would be cool to play if someone made one just to try, A Metal Resonator Style Uke Bass. Just for fun. Thoughts? Like my more expensive Oscar Schmidt by Washburn Uke Bass. Different Wood and it's non laminate , and same style polyurethane gut beige strings, different branded control panel pickup and tuner with no mid knob, but again you can totally tell the Quality difference by a mile with an actual truss rod to adjust and no tuner issues unlike what I mentioned with my Donner above. Plus, the way the pickup plugs in despite only having one built in strap lock is again to me much more solid than my Donner, and because of that I don't have an issue (which I do on my Donner straight from purchase but not noticed at 1st) where the bottom of my Uke Bass where you put the batteries in and plug the amp in is falling out and all scotch taped up because it was never screwed in properly which I need to get fixed. LOL Anyway, if I am not to Distracted at work like I was last week which I already apologized for LOL, I'll see you for the live stream Thursday whatever you have planned.
I think that with the E string, it might just be that the built in tuners are cheap and have trouble with that low of a frequency. I doubt this fix would help with that. This particular model did have this volume problem...before I just set the eq to have more highs and mids to help boost the G string notes, but that also increased string noise. While it wasn't terrible, this did do the trick. I hope to see you Thursday. Cheers!
THANK YOU for this video! It'll give me more confidence as I need to do something similar to a 5 string SUB I bought used and sits unplayed. Why? Only 2 of the 5 strings are at the proper volume. So, when you go to restring your bass, you'll need to be careful for those pieces not to fall out, right? At least the middle two I am guessing. Have you had any other thoughts on how it might be possible to keep those pieces together after sawing them apart? Again, thank you!
Michael recommended taping them together, but doesn't the SUB have a different pickup? I would contact Kala about solutions on that one before cutting the saddle.
I did end up taking the saddle out of the bridge and reseating it. That helped a bit. However during this exercise I noticed that the wire between the metal strip and the board is a bit frayed. And when I reassembled it, they was a static-y sound when playing the G string(at least). The saddle itself has some string wear from the round wounds. I wonder if this bass was originally strung with the Pahoehoe strings and that the saddle material was too soft for round wounds. I bet I need a new saddle and pickup. :(
Muchísimas gracias por este vídeo, voy a poner en práctica todos los consejos justo me pasa con la cuerda E y cuando presiono sobre el puente suena, ya después vuelvo a comentar, gracias❤
There is a non destructieve way to fix this. Just put paper shims between the saddle and the piezo pickup at the problem string (always one or both outer strings). Probably requires restringing a few times, but it fixes the problem without destroying the saddle. Also handy for keeping it's resale value.
@@stephencoxbass You can also use D'addario Taylor GS Mini Bass Strings on the UBass cause they have a Nylon Core too but they come w/ Color Coded Ball ends for easier installation.
As I’m ever the cautious person, can you get replacement bridge pieces if out goes horribly wrong? I’ve looked on the Kala website under the spare parts section and can see nuts but not bridges. Thx
Thanks for the video. I don’t have a volume issue on my Kala Journeyman U Bass, but I do not like the action, it is way to high. Mine is the wood finish with round wound strings. I have looked at the nut there is no scope to lower that and truss rod is not an option. The Neck is straight. Has to be done from the bridge. Prior to seeing your video I removed the pick up assembly mine came out easy. Did not know how to take it apart till the video. So my question is has anyone successfully lowered the action if so how can it be done?
I'm not sure, but you might be able to sand the bottom of the saddle...depending on if it's hollow or solid. you could also do the same for the nut potentially (by removing it to sand the bottom), but the same concern might arise if it's hollow.
On my Kala the E string output is weak. Kala's recommended fix is to loosen all the strings, wiggle the saddle, and then retighten the strings. I tried that several times with no success. Sometimes as I tightened the strings the E string output would initially be the same as for the other three strings but as I got close to proper pitch the E string output would become weaker than the other strings. Since this seems to happen a lot with Kala U Basses, I wish the company would sell a split saddle that people who are having this problem could then install without going through all the difficulty you went through. I bet that simply having a two saddles pieces, one for EA and the other for DG would solve most people's string volume problems. Kala people, if you're reading this please make it so!...
Possibly, or just one that has the four pieces connected with elastic, or even just connected together but much thinner between the pieces to allow each part to be pushed down more evenly. I hope they use one of the many solutions soon. Thanks for watching!
Hello Stephen, just received my Hadean Acoustic Electric with cut-away. The bridge pick-up doesn't have those indentations. Straight compensated bridge of white plastic material. Strings sound even, but haven't tested enough. Two questions, 1. is putting talc at the nut to allow easier movement of string for tuning OK, 2. is putting on light gauge tape wound electric bass strings on OK? U r not liable, just your experienced opinion. Subscribing now. Thanks, Peter K
Hi Peter, Thanks for watching! If you don't have volume issues, don't try this...it might still work even without the indentions, but I would be more hesitant since that is a different pickup design. 1. I've heard of people using something...talc is most likely fine...I think I've heard graphite and other things...honestly talc might be better. 2. I would not put full scale electric bass strings on your bass ukulele...they are not designed to have strings with a metal core on them. Even the metal strings made for U-Bass have a nylon core. The other reason is that they won't be the right gauge, so it may be hard to get them to the right pitch without having them too loose to play on. I hope that helps. Cheers!
@@stephencoxbass The Roundwounds make your UBass sound like a Proper Acoustic Bass Guitar w/ a big sound, much less delicate than a Full Scale Acoustic Bass Guitar. Taylor Guitars now makes the GS Mini Bass which is a little bit bigger than the smallest Acoustic Bass & is good for a variety of jams. The Boss Kantana Air Wireless Amp is a good tool to throw in.
I recently did the cutting mod, and good news is volume works, but the bad news is the bass now outputs a very unpleasant rumble sound. My guess is cutting the saddle caused this, and even though it didn't work initially, I should go back and just retune. But I only have the cut saddle-any tips where I might get a replacement? I have a Horse brand ubass, though it looks the same as the kala.
Hmm, it could be rattling against the piece next to it? They sell replacement saddles and pickups, but I'm not positive which part is causing the rattling. I'm not as familiar with that brand, but the saddles all seem similar. Maybe someone in the ubass freaks Facebook group can help? Thanks for watching.
I have the same problem with my Kala Exotic Mahogany Ubass. However, the bass has a solid black saddle, with no slits. Is there any way to resolve this problem in a ubass with solid saddle?
I would not go about it this way...it may be better to try pulling the strings beyond the saddle up and over it a bit to try to get them to push with more pressure from that side. It may be some issue with the pickup itself. I would definitely try other options with that saddle design, though. Have you tried asking this question on the Ubass Freaks Facebook group? They might have alternative suggestions. Thanks for watching!
It would probably achieve similar results if you cut through to almost, but not quite separating the four of them. That might reduce the stiffness enough between pickups so that each presses more firmly into the saddle slot.
Thanks for this video! I have the same problem on my ubass but the pickup is of the other style that does not have indentations. The pickup looks like one solid black piece of plastic. I notice that if I loosen the g string the e string becomes much louder. The volume on the e string goes back to being very low if I retune the G string. Any ideas on how to fix this problem would be appreciated.
I would try adjusting the strings in different orders, and then try pulling/repositioning the E string between the saddle and the string holes in the body to where it's putting more downward pressure on the saddle/pickup. It's hard to explain in words, but it's easy to do. Basically, if there's a bit more tension in the small section of string betwern the saddle and the holes in the body just past the bridge, it should make contact with the pickup better. I hope that helps/makes sense. It worked for my Wanderer. Thanks for watching!
@@stephencoxbass We guitar players always spend lots of cash to buy tools from Stewmac for a DIY handy safety job, but anyway, I'm going to try your idea on my ubass but without a knife ! Thanks BTW you play good !
It very well could void your warranty. You might want to check, but I imagine it could. Try loosening and re-tightening the strings in different orders and adjustint the strings so there is more downward (rather than sideways) pressure on the pickup before trying this method. Cheers!
Thanks for the reply. Yes been trying a bunch. It even came with a paper from the distributor saying it's a known problem with tips on how to fix it. With no luck as of yet. I'm calling it a day for today..
I have not had to often at all. Mine have lasted for a few years each set. You might want to replace them a bit more often than that, but that has been my experience. Thanks for watching!
Hey Stephen, I feel like I may have this issue with my G string. However I'm not sure if it's instead an issue with how I'm setting my pickup or amp - normally with the treble lower than bass and mid (which would obviously cut out some of the volume from those higher G string notes). I'm not a very experienced bass player: how do you normally set your EQ levels, and do you have any suggestions for how to test this?
I usually take out some of the highs, but I don't typically have them all the way down. Usually the G string is still loud enough in those circumstances. Try adjusting the strings before trying this fix: sometimes loosening them and tightening them in a different order can help, other times just lifting the string over the saddle more will put more pressure on it and make the string louder. It's hard to explain the second idea, but getting the G string to have more pressure pushing the saddle down is the main idea.
The more expensive models with a different pickup like the ebony, exotic mahogany, and other models in that range as well as the solid body models don’t typically have this issue. It’s more common in the entry level models, and I’m not sure if they have solved this issue yet. Thanks for watching!
They are very quiet without an amp. The ones with metal strings project better, but are no match for the volume of an acoustic guitar being strummed. Your best bet to be heard acoustically is to get a full sized acoustic electric bass guitar with metal strings.
Hi Mike, the black end caps hold the saddle onto the pickup assembly. You don't want to cut the metal piece with the pickup, so you remove the black end caps to separate the saddle (white plastic part) from the pickup.
@@stephencoxbass ahh I see. on my hadean the saddle literally falls our of the bridge when you removes the strings, so I wouldn't have to do that. thanx!
I think the pieces can fall out easier, but I was surprised that it worked as well as it did! If I were Kala, I'd connect them with cloth or some other material that allows them to push down separately, but still be attached in some way. It wasn't hard to put the strings back on, but you might have to worry about the pieces falling out while you thread the strings through the back. Not much harder if harder at all. Cheers!
Hmm, just from cutting the saddle? Is there something you can put under the pieces that can help them stay in place and not rattle? Maybe a thin piece of fabric? What did you use to cut the saddle? Maybe the blade was too thick?
maybe you can help me, I have a Harley Benton electric bass ukulele, and the forth string all of a sudden started to produce really strong overtones. What can that be? thank you in advance
I'm not sure, but maybe something is rattling in/on/under the pickup near that string? I have not had that issue, so that's my best guess at the moment. Thanks for watching!
@@tiketiger I'm not sure what that's about. Try checking with the "ubass freaks" forum on Facebook. Maybe someone there has encountered the same problem.
@@tiketiger If he works on instruments a lot, he'll know where to look for what's causing the issue, most likely. I'd guess it's something to do with the pickup/saddle/bridge and possibly how the string is resting on the saddle. Cheers!
I'm here because my Ubass puts out almost no signal from the E string. The other 3 strings seem fine, but the sound from the E string is very low-volume. I'm noticing that there are several different models of Ubass. I'm concerned that the pickup on mine will be different from what I see here. Kinda wish I had waited. I paid $550 for mine, which has a hollow body. Now there's a solid body version with two pickups for $350. The 2-pickup configuration probably doesn't have the same issue my hollow-body has. I think I contact Kala, give them my model number, and see if they have recommendations for fixing it.
That’s a tough situation and highly unusual if it has the other style pickup. They work similarly, but cutting the saddle doesn’t seem right to me if it’s the more narrow design. I would definitely talk to Kala, they are usually very helpful in situations like this. Thanks for watching!
I messaged with a Kala tech, and the only solution offered was a new saddle/pickup. When it arrived, I saw that it is the same (older) style of saddle my Ubass came with, the Shadow system. I'm realizing at this point that I'm on my own with this. I know three guitar repair places in Chicago, and none of them seem eager to do anything with a Ubass. So, details: the factory-installed saddle is tapered with the higher side of the taper on the G-string end and the lower side on the E-string end. The G is currently a bit over-amplified, while the E is under-amplified. I'm going to try turning the saddle the other way around to see if it puts the higher-amplification end under the E string. It will require drilling a small hole through the bridge-plate to pass the pickup cable through, and removal of the Shadow volume/tone module so I can plug the cable from the saddle into it. The pickup cable has a 1/8th-inch plug attached, so at least I don't have to solder or put a crimp coupling on it. The only part I'm worried about now is the tiny screws that hold the volume/tone/tuner module onto the body of the instrument. The screws just go into the wood of the body, so I'm concerned I might not get a tight fit when I put the screws back...but I can probably overcome that by gluing some thin slivers on wood into the holes. If it works, I will have saved about $150-200 that would have gone to a reluctant guitar repair tech. If it doesn't work...I still save that money for the time being.
@@1oolabob Have you tried the other options mentioned in my video? It may just be that the E string is not putting enough pressure on the saddle while the G string is putting too much...can you pull the E string to raise the tension between the hole the string comes through on the body and the saddle? Then you can do a tiny bit of the opposite on the G string side. I'm sure you've thought of this, but it might be worth trying before resorting to drilling if not.
@@stephencoxbass I did an experiment: I rigged a bar clamp to press on the E string side of the saddle to see if more tension made it sound louder. And it did, but you can't really play much bass with a bar clamp hanging off the end of the instrument, right? Anyway, I replaced the saddle yesterday. After thinking about it and doing little experiments for a week, the change-out took about an hour. I'm planning to fit the old saddle to a 3-string bass I built from a calabash gourd. Your video here definitely helped me think of how to do my repair and not to be afraid to try.
@@1oolabob That's awesome! I'm glad it worked out and wasn't a lengthy process. I'm glad I could help inspire you, but it sounds like you knew what you were doing all along. Cheers!
While this ended up being useful, you really should have some appropriate tools if you are doing any sort of instrument repairs. For example, a surgical needle holder for grabbing ends of strings, a small wire cutter, a pair of pliers, a set of tiny screwdrivers, a Japanese pull saw, various sandpapers, various tapes, various glues, various small clamps. You can buy all this at Harbor Freight for remarkably little money. Having these things would have made your work much safer and made this a better video.
Thank you for the list of things to look into. In the future I will try to have appropriate tools for videos like this. For this one I had to make due with what I had available. Cheers!
I must say that I enjoyed watching Stephen do all these adjustments with simple "tools". That is more or less the way I do things too. It is good to know one doesn't need all sorts of tools to get things done 😀
My E string is dull while the G sings out very loudly. It was suggested to me that this problem can be addressed by using a compressor. I bought an SP xotic and have not completely figured out how to use it for the best effect but I think it helps. Has anyone else tried it?
A compressor can help, but it has its limits (I feel like there’s a pun in there somewhere). There’s probably a tutorial on TH-cam somewhere for it. I hope it helps. Thanks for watching!
Yes, try comparing the volume of the strings in this video to the last one I did (Fretless Bass Ukulele VS Upright Bass). In that video, I had to EQ the bass with lots of treble to get the G string notes to cut through. Now I won't have to anymore. Thanks for watching!
It depends on what's causing it...sometimes it can be a matter of filing a fret down that it's buzzing against, other times you might have to figure out a way to raise the action. I noticed this bass had a piece of plastic under the pickup that was probably there to raise the saddle height, so maybe something of that nature could help.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but it was kind of hard to watch you do this. The way you angled that knife blade ... then the cutting. Man, I would've recommended springing for a guitar tech, or at least a person with better tools at their disposal.
Hi. I went to the trouble of buying 3 spare piezo pickups from eBay for around 10GBP. They really are that dirt cheap! I found that the way the pickup sits in the slot is key to the volume issue. Merely removing and replacing the pickup can solve the problem. Could also be that one pickup is better than another, hence why I bought some spares! I found that fine nose pliers are better for removing, gripping the black bits! Cheers!
Cool stuff! On most of my U-Basses, I haven't had much of an issue, and repositioning the strings and tightening them in different orders was enough to fix the issue, but this is good to know, too. Cheers!
I knew the concept needed to be explained, and I wanted to film it as soon as possible. What I did worked just fine for me. Knowing how much it seems to bothers viewers, I will get the right tools if I decide to make another video of this type.
@@stephencoxbass Well done just the same. Any idgit can do the job with the perfect tools! I learned a lot. That's what's important. A great job today beats a perfect job tomorrow every time.
Also, only cut the saddle (the white-ish piece) and make sure to remove it from the pickup assembly first. I know that's obvious if you watched the video, I just don't want anyone to mess up other parts of their bass ukuleles.
Yikes! This was really painful to watch you using a knife like that. It's not that expensive to buy an X-acto razor saw which would make cutting the saddles safe and easy. Glad it worked for you and that you didn't slice your fingers off.
Oh no! It might take cutting all of them to get the sound even: The E string is able to push that smaller piece down harder on the pickup now, and the other 3 strings are still sharing a piece of plastic...so it makes sense that the E is making better contact now.
The concept is what's important. And no fingers were cut. I recommend getting the proper tools, but sometimes you have to use what you have. Thanks for watching.
Therein lies the problem, the saddle was way too tight in the bridge! I thought you would have taken the opportunity to oil that dry fretboard while the strings were off??!!!
Wow, thanks! My E string was so quiet I almost took it to the music shop to get repaired, but your tip about loosening the strings and tuning the quiet string first worked 🙌🎵
I'm glad that worked! I always try loosening the strings first since it helped on my Wanderer. I never had to do this operation on that particular U-Bass. Thank you for watching!
Wow I'm gonna have to try your method out first cuz my G string don't sound much. Tq
As a tool guy, I would say never use a knife as a pry bar. (I’ve broken the tips off of a couple of knives.) OMG, sawing with a knife ! Living dangerously!
Haha, it has a saw edge on it. Thanks for the tip!
Just bought a Kala U-bass from Uke Republic and I didn't tighten the strings correctly, so the bottom 2 strings weren't getting picked up due to over-tension on the upper 2 strings. Loosened them all, retightened them from the bottom up and "voila"! the pickup works like a charm on all the strings! Thanks to your video! I was intimidated with plan B!!
Sometimes plan A is all you need! I'm glad it worked for you. Cheers!
Can I ask tedphillips74 ... what did U mean by upper and lower strings??? Upper meaning the strings close 2 U? Or upper as in higher pitch sounding string G? I have a Kala UBass that I'm about 2 chuck out the window cuz of this string/pickup problem! And I'm dreading the saddle cutting.
I tried all manner of adjusting, retuning and moving the strings across that saddle but nothing was able to correct the very low output of the D and G strings. Finally took the pickup off, cut the segments apart, removed the dried glue crap on the tops of the pickups, lightly sanded the segment bottoms flat and reassembled it. Output is high and perfect across ALL the strings now and it sounds excellent. Thanks for the fix demo I was getting sour on this little guy.
Awesome! I'm glad it worked for you!
Thanks for this. I needed to put on new strings and decided to give it a try. Not having played a string instrument prior to my purchase of the Kala U-Bass 3 years ago, I did not notice any imbalance across the strings. My plucking fingers just accommodated the differences. Now with the surgery done, not only do I notice the more consistent volume, but the whole bass plays and sounds much better. It plays fuller and deeper, a more open sound. And I don't think it's the new strings as I've changed strings twice before (same Thunderblack model each time) and there was no change in the sound quality or play-ability. Whatever the explanation, I'm very pleased.
I’m glad this helped! Thanks for watching!
Okay I had this assembly in bits today and fixed a quiet E string by going 2/3 of the way through the connection between E and A saddle with a triangular file, and by filing a half mm off the bottom of the end tab so the end cap doesn't deaden the saddle. much quicker, easier and safer than the knife, and going only partway through prevents the added difficulty in reassembly.
I find that I can pry the whole assembly out by getting a poky thing into the gap under the saddles.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing. I might try something more like that if I encounter this problem again. Cheers!
Thanks so much for this,along with all your wonderful advice and vids.
My quiet quiet G string is now thundering along with all the others just by slackening all the strings and tuning the G first.
It’s made such a difference.
Goldtone Microbass fitted with wound strings.
That's wonderful to hear! That's why I like to recommend doing that first...it worked for my Kala Wanderer as well. Thanks for watching!
You heard it here first. Stephen Cox is the Crocodile Dundee of Bass Ukeleles.
Thanks for attacking that bass with a huge knife so noone else has to! Actually a really helpful video!
For those of us who are less into huge knives than Stephen, use a prying tool from a smartphone kit for prying, and a microsaw or skalpel for cutting.
Great tool suggestions! Thanks for watching!
Great video! I tried on the same day as getting my Kala U-bass. Was very disappointed about the low volume of the E-string. You can easily test if your U-bass is suffering from this issue: Press hard on the E-string right above the saddle. If you hear a "click" noise when doing this, it shows that there is no tight contact between the saddle and the piezo. I used this video as reference for the modification, but I only cut the saddle between the E string and the A string (using a proper saw :-) and left the other three sections together, because only the E-string had a volume issue. That immediadetly removed the issue! The e-string is still a little "wobbly" due to its thickness, but the volume is now nearly the same as the other strings. If Kala reads this: Please fix it, it is definitely a design flaw.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thanks you for this video! my E string was almost dead, i tried everything an this save my ubass! thank you from Chile!
I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Finally my u bass was having the same issues and I was struggling to fix it but now I did thanks for the tutorial !!!!!
I'm glad this helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot ! I have to try that ! lot's of difference between the higher string and the others .
If you look at last week's video, you can tell mine was a bit quieter before as well. Thanks for watching!
Or.. you can slightly detune the non conforming string and then retune it as you pull up on the string directly above the saddle simultaneously placing the string over and on the saddle while retaining the tension. The object being to increase the downward pressure of the string atop the saddle.
If that doesn’t work out then try to move the string slightly to one side or the other while applying firm pressure to the saddle below the string. You can test the output by tapping lightly on the saddle with your fingertip and monitor the changes and differences while making the aforementioned adjustments. Hope this helps.
I agree completely. Cutting the saddle is definitely the final thing to try when those options don't fix the issue. Cheers!
I really admire your persistence. It would have been so much easier with a slightly better tool kit but you proved that it can be done. Thankyou !!!
Thanks! I agree that having better tools would help for sure! Thanks for watching!
just wanted to follow up. I got a new hadean solid body. the a string was close to inaudible on it. I did this mod. my saddle was not attached to the bridge which made this a lot easier. sounds much much better now. thanx!
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this post! I've had my Kala Ubass for a few years now but have only played it acoustically until recently and was really disappointed when I amplified it and found that the E and G strings just couldn't be heard. I tried loosening all the strings and tightening those two up first which made a very small difference but after agonising for a couple of days I went ahead with the "procedure" outlined in your video.
It was very easy, took about 15 minutes in total and has transformed the sound from my Ubass. THx again
I’m glad I could help and that it worked for you! Thanks for watching!
Awesome, can't wait to get my Red Journeyman on Saturday!
Awesome! I hope you enjoy it as much as I have!
@@stephencoxbass I for sure will!
Here is the test I used to see if I needed this mod. Pluck the g string for a reference on volume. Then with your thumb nail press down on the g string bridge to seat the bridge on the pickup and check the volume. Mine increased about 30-40%. To avoid the four piece bridge "dance" I just cut off the g string seat on the bridge. I also flattened where the bridge seats on the pickup, they were uneven. Thanks for helping to solve this issue!
Great insights! Thank you for sharing this! Cheers!
Came back to say that when I tried your tip. I couldn’t hear any difference the day I did it. So I simply gave up. And today 1 year after, I decided to plug the bass and all the strings volume were even. I then went to play for 3 hours and all everything sounds good! So I’m betting that It needs time to all the strings sit properly.
Stephen,
This video came at just the right time! A few months ago, I bought a red Journeyman. When it arrived it had round wound strings - damn, should have read the spec better, the wood coloured one had the rubber strings. Anyhow I wanted rubber so I got a set of Aquila Thunderguts. Fitted them with a little drilling and filing of the nut and all went well. Then quite recently I was having issues with a quiet A string. Fiddled with knobs on the amp but could never get the volume up on the A. So I refitted the round wounds and the volumes on all strings are now acceptable. So short of taking a bowie knife and nail file to the pick ups, I guess I’ll stay with the round wounds. It may even give me an excuse to buy a solid bodied bass with rubber strings.
Great vids, keep ‘em coming. 👴🏻
Cheers Alan, the round wounds have higher tension, so it makes sense that they might not have as much of an issue. I like the idea if getting a solid body bass uke as well...one day I will. Cheers!
Your were scaring me with that knife 😂
I thought it might be funny with Halloween coming up 😂
He got me too! That’s a big knife for that little guitar! 😂
@Robert Ralph Spam, promoting a scam. Reported - again.
I did this on my bass uke.
Pryed the saddle/pickup out , disassembled it, and used a hack saw to cut almost all the way through.
I left just enough material to keep the pieces connected. I don't think it's optimal to cut all the way through.
Before the process, the D string sounded horrible, now it sounds great through the amp.
Each segment can settle down onto its pickup as there's plenty of flex but all the segments are stabilized by the remaing material
I did it yesterday and it works perfectly. To be honest, it's easier that it seems watching you doing it. I used a good cutter and cutting was fast and precise. Thanks you very much for your video.
Great! Proper tools certainly make it easier. I had to use what I had in the moment, but I'm glad you had better tools. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! I would have sworn a hundred times but you kept your cool Stephen.
I did what I could, and I have the advantage of editing out any swears 😂 Thanks for watching!
If you want to file the end of something like that but lack the tool, you can also find some relatively smooth concrete, and rub it on that to smooth it down.
True, I was just trying to make this video too quickly thinking someone might need it. Thanks for watching!
Hi Stephen, watched your video on the bass ukulele saddle modification, I've got Batking bass with steel strings , so I did exactly what you did and got to say absolutely brilliant, made such a difference especially on the G string, love your lessons keep up the good work. Cheers Pete , England 😊
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching, Pete! Cheers!
I have a Hadean u-bass which has (had) low-volume on the e-string. After watching this video, I started to try this fix. I got the strings off and took out the saddle, but the way mine is constructed I couldn't figure out a way to take the saddle/tray apart without cutting the wiring (which I did not want to do). Therefore, I could not test this approach to fixing the uneven volume problem. So, on the assumption that the problem is poor contact between the saddle and the sensor, I took a pair of pliers and squeezed the e-string end of the saddle/tray assembly. (it appeared to move a bit. I also noticed some crud in the bridge slot, so I cleaned this out with a q-tip and then re-assembled the bridge. The e-string volume is now as loud as the other strings, and the problem seems solved to me without having to do major surgery.
Thinking about this further, the logic behind cutting apart the saddle does not really make sense to me. Nearly all instruments with piezo pickups use solid saddles without this problem, so I don't think this is an inherently flawed approach. I think the issue is QC in how these bass ukea and their pickups are assembled, and at least for me the fix proved much simpler. Googling around a bit, I found a number of references to cleaning the bridge slot fixing the problem, which (to me, anyway) confirms my hunch about this being an assembly problem rather than a design problem. Cutting the bridge saddle apart may indeed work because it does result in better contact between the saddle and the sensor, but I think there's an easier way to achieve this (i.e., compressing the saddle/tray a little and cleaning out the slot).
That's good to know! I would definitely recommend to try that first to anyone now that I know. However, I think the issue is sometimes that the rubber/polyurethane strings don't have the tension that other strings do. It is less of an issue with metal strings. On my Wanderer, I fixed the problem by simply loosening and tightening the strings in a certain order. The method in this video should definitely be a "last resort" option.
I'm impressed with your perseverance and glad it works. I appreciate seeing the hard parts, it really helps.
I'm glad I could help!
Ima try that now! Some sandpaper and gaffer tape should improve the deal
Awesome, I wish you luck!
@@stephencoxbass it works! I used a mini saw to cut through then sanded down the edges a bit put it in place and voilá I can hear my G string and the D string is not deafening anymore! We'll have to be careful not to lose chunks of the saddle when changing strings though!
@@rafaelaparicio9682 That's great! I'm glad it worked.
Thank you for this video. My cheap Carlo Robelli Ubass has the same string volume problem, and another issue-- the piezo pickup cuts out sometimes...I have to bang the saddle to bring back individual strings. Any suggestions on how to correct this? I exchanged this model three times at Sam Ash, same issues on all three basses. A friend's Donner U-bass has these issues, too.
I'm not familiar with that issue. It could be a short of some sort. Are the batteries brand new? If so, it might be time to try a different brand. Although, I had one of their acoustic electric full scale basses and never had any pickup issues. It may just be a quirk with the pickup they used. Thanks for watching!
It seems like the end cap is to attach the saddle to the pickup. Since the end caps will only hold the outer two pickups in place, and only as long as they are pushed toward the outside, I think the end caps no longer serve a function, unless it would look bad without them.
I think they still help to keep the outer 2 saddle pieces in place, which provides a bit of stability to the inner ones as well (less wiggle room). Cheers!
Great idea old problem on acoustic instruments. Watching you handle a knife was exiting👀
Thanks for watching! If I do this again, I plan on having more appropriate tools...haha.
@9:49, when you do the play test, you only play the low E string for one note. Would be better to hear more of the Low E with the other strings as this seems to be the predominant issue.
Ok, it definitely fixed the issue. I'm sorry I didn't play the E enough to demonstrate it, though. For mine, the main issue was the G string volume.
Ok, I’ve had a Kala u bass for 3 years now the mahogany acoustic with tort a shell binding. The E string was always a lower volume than all the other strings. After much research here’s what I found and how I corrected the problem today. I have the black solid saddle, the one with no perforated slots in it. 1st I took all the strings off ( The original black poly strings ) I removed the saddle, left it connected. I noticed on the bridge under the saddle there was a small groove, but only went from the bottom of the bridge to about 3/4 of the way up to the E string. So, I figured the saddle wasn’t sitting correctly on the bridge therefore not allowing the E string to seat properly. So I got a piece of sandpaper and shaped it to the groove that was in the bridge. Slowly making the top part of the saddle ( next to the E string ) to match evenly across. I then made sure the saddle fit flush against the bridge. Re-strung the strings ( Tuning the E string first ) then the other strings one at a time. No more problem, the E string is now at the same volume as all the other strings. This definitely does the job. It’s not hard, just take your time when sanding down the bridge. This is definitely the fix. Hope it helps someone. I love the Kala u bass, but this was driving me crazy. Now it’s nothing but enjoyment.
That's great that you found a solution for the U-Bass with the different saddle/pick up! I've heard others complain about this issue specifically, and I hope they find your answer helpful as I've had little advice with that set up. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
@@stephencoxbass Yes, thanks for your response. It was driving me crazy but I’ve been playing for over 40 years and fell in love with this little thing. It really was an easy fix, I called Kala yesterday about something else and started telling them what bass I had and what it was doing and told them how I rectified the problem and they said they did have some issues with that type of saddle and told me I did the right thing the right way. ( Go Figure ) lol. But like I said once I fixed the problem I fell in love all over again. Now I’m waiting for the new Kala California u bass to come back. They told me they have worked out some bugs on the new models and they should be releasing them soon. Can’t wait. Thanks again for your response.
Thank you so much!!!! it works!! I solved it!! After cutting the edge, the A string was a bit quieter.. I've just moved it's piece of edge a bit to the sides and walaaa! :)
I'm glad I could help! Cheers!
Thanks Stephen for this fix and as usual in your style very clearly illustrated, also including what tools not to use. Ha!
I will be doing the same to my fretless hollow bodied one soon.
What bass amplification set up do you use for small to medium gigs?
May you keep on the sunny side. Vince
I'm glad I could help! For the weddings, I'm using a Fender Rumble 200 amp. For the live streams, I use a TC Electronic BG 250 as of late. Cheers, Vince!
I would mark the string name and orientation onto the bottom of each of the four saddle pieces before I cut them, since mixing them up could affect intonation.
Good call! Also, some people recommend not cutting them completely apart, or taping them together on the bottom. I heard those ideas after this video…haha.
I've been playing bass on and off for 20 years and I only last month bought a string winder--because I have been mass-loosening and tightening the strings on my U-Bass while trying to troubleshoot this issue.
The sad thing is, I have one...I just didn't use it here for some silly reason 🤦♂️ Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video!!
You're very welcome!
Where did you get that amazing multitool that does all those jobs? 😱
(My favourite position you did was using a hunting knife to pry off a plastic cap from a very sensitive pickup whilst reaching around a live condenser mic)
I'm glad you enjoyed it...sometimes you just have to use what you have 🤷♂️ If I do this again, I'll get more appropriate tools first. Cheers!
Can i ask your opinion (since you're here and someone that knows ubasses!)
I found a good deal on an old kala ubass, the first (i think solid mahogany body?) run without the preamp/tuner, so just passive piezo (and i believe with no truss rod) on ebay. I wondered if you thought it matters about the truss rod? Since the string tension is so low and the neck is so chunky. I've not read anything about neck stability problems with these, again i guess because of the shortness and chunkyness of the neck.
?
Here's the link on ebay:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124813743599?hash=item1d0f7a95ef:g:OaMAAOSweExg8agI
Hi
What if i have a kala u bass smhg mahogny with a brown solid plastic piece with the mic strip glued underneath. If I cut to 4 parts and spare a couple of mm...do you think It will work? Therese is noway taking apart the mic strip and the bridge, its just one piece...
Jonas
Hi Jonas,
I'm really not sure, but I'd guess it's not the best solution for that style of pickup. I personally would not recommend it.
Thanks for watching
Stephen
Great Demo video as always.
Here is the Questions: Did you have the problems with that particular Fretless Uke Bass that this technique was supposed to fix, and if you did what string/s were you having that issue with?, and did this technique actually fix it for good?
My personal issue is not so much volume on my cheaper Donner Uke Bass when playing acoustically or through the Amp, but getting the F string and sometimes the A to register with the built in tuner for tuning the Uke Bass. I have to really pluck those strings hard and sometimes mess with the EQ or volume just to tune those strings. Now if I take that same Donner Uke Bass and bypass the built in tuner and use my Korg Pedal tuner to tune those strings since Amp volume is not an issue, then all is ok tuning wise.
Shows you that even hough how Uke Basses can sound similar with the same/similar sting setup, that you can totally tell the quality of one Uke Bass from another just by playing it no matter what wood is used to make the Uke Bass Laminate or Not. You know what would be cool to play if someone made one just to try, A Metal Resonator Style Uke Bass. Just for fun. Thoughts?
Like my more expensive Oscar Schmidt by Washburn Uke Bass. Different Wood and it's non laminate , and same style polyurethane gut beige strings, different branded control panel pickup and tuner with no mid knob, but again you can totally tell the Quality difference by a mile with an actual truss rod to adjust and no tuner issues unlike what I mentioned with my Donner above. Plus, the way the pickup plugs in despite only having one built in strap lock is again to me much more solid than my Donner, and because of that I don't have an issue (which I do on my Donner straight from purchase but not noticed at 1st) where the bottom of my Uke Bass where you put the batteries in and plug the amp in is falling out and all scotch taped up because it was never screwed in properly which I need to get fixed. LOL
Anyway, if I am not to Distracted at work like I was last week which I already apologized for LOL, I'll see you for the live stream Thursday whatever you have planned.
I did say F string LOL. Typo. I meant E string in those cases. Sorry.
I think that with the E string, it might just be that the built in tuners are cheap and have trouble with that low of a frequency. I doubt this fix would help with that.
This particular model did have this volume problem...before I just set the eq to have more highs and mids to help boost the G string notes, but that also increased string noise. While it wasn't terrible, this did do the trick.
I hope to see you Thursday. Cheers!
THANK YOU for this video! It'll give me more confidence as I need to do something similar to a 5 string SUB I bought used and sits unplayed. Why? Only 2 of the 5 strings are at the proper volume. So, when you go to restring your bass, you'll need to be careful for those pieces not to fall out, right? At least the middle two I am guessing. Have you had any other thoughts on how it might be possible to keep those pieces together after sawing them apart? Again, thank you!
Michael recommended taping them together, but doesn't the SUB have a different pickup? I would contact Kala about solutions on that one before cutting the saddle.
stephencoxbass Yes you are correct. The saddle is very different between my SUB and the Journeyman I have. Back to the drawing board!
I did end up taking the saddle out of the bridge and reseating it. That helped a bit. However during this exercise I noticed that the wire between the metal strip and the board is a bit frayed. And when I reassembled it, they was a static-y sound when playing the G string(at least). The saddle itself has some string wear from the round wounds. I wonder if this bass was originally strung with the Pahoehoe strings and that the saddle material was too soft for round wounds. I bet I need a new saddle and pickup. :(
@@bluegrassrules1968 Oh no! I never had that issue, I hope your pickup/saddle is ok/fixable.
Muchísimas gracias por este vídeo, voy a poner en práctica todos los consejos justo me pasa con la cuerda E y cuando presiono sobre el puente suena, ya después vuelvo a comentar, gracias❤
I wonder if you need to cut all the way through or if a deep scoring would do the trick to disrupt the resonance between pickups?
Other people have done what you are saying, and I think it did do the trick. Thanks for watching!
It looks to be an interesting solution. My ubass has a black saddle made from a single bit of plastic and no notches. So I think I'll leave it alone.
Good choice, Bob! There's a different fix for those that might be best for a pro to do. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
@Microgreens Grower I'm glad it worked! Cheers!
There is a non destructieve way to fix this. Just put paper shims between the saddle and the piezo pickup at the problem string (always one or both outer strings). Probably requires restringing a few times, but it fixes the problem without destroying the saddle. Also handy for keeping it's resale value.
Great solution as well! That might be a great thing to try before this method for sure.
the paper will work for a while till it compresses with age, i find that tin foil is great for thin shims and can fold nicely if too thin.
Smart! @@hiphophippy2439
You might need a D'addario Bass string winder & a set of D'addario UBass Strings Nyltech.
I was not aware that D'addario was making U-Bass strings now. I'll have to look into those. Thanks for watching!
@@stephencoxbass You can also use D'addario Taylor GS Mini Bass Strings on the UBass cause they have a Nylon Core too but they come w/ Color Coded Ball ends for easier installation.
That was really helpful, thanks
I'm glad I could help!
As I’m ever the cautious person, can you get replacement bridge pieces if out goes horribly wrong?
I’ve looked on the Kala website under the spare parts section and can see nuts but not bridges. Thx
I know there are some replacement bridges on Amazon that look really similar, but I have never ordered any to know for certain. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I don’t have a volume issue on my Kala Journeyman U Bass, but I do not like the action, it is way to high. Mine is the wood finish with round wound strings. I have looked at the nut there is no scope to lower that and truss rod is not an option. The Neck is straight. Has to be done from the bridge. Prior to seeing your video I removed the pick up assembly mine came out easy. Did not know how to take it apart till the video. So my question is has anyone successfully lowered the action if so how can it be done?
I'm not sure, but you might be able to sand the bottom of the saddle...depending on if it's hollow or solid. you could also do the same for the nut potentially (by removing it to sand the bottom), but the same concern might arise if it's hollow.
On my Kala the E string output is weak. Kala's recommended fix is to loosen all the strings, wiggle the saddle, and then retighten the strings. I tried that several times with no success. Sometimes as I tightened the strings the E string output would initially be the same as for the other three strings but as I got close to proper pitch the E string output would become weaker than the other strings.
Since this seems to happen a lot with Kala U Basses, I wish the company would sell a split saddle that people who are having this problem could then install without going through all the difficulty you went through. I bet that simply having a two saddles pieces, one for EA and the other for DG would solve most people's string volume problems.
Kala people, if you're reading this please make it so!...
Possibly, or just one that has the four pieces connected with elastic, or even just connected together but much thinner between the pieces to allow each part to be pushed down more evenly. I hope they use one of the many solutions soon. Thanks for watching!
Hello Stephen, just received my Hadean Acoustic Electric with cut-away. The bridge pick-up doesn't have those indentations. Straight compensated bridge of white plastic material. Strings sound even, but haven't tested enough. Two questions, 1. is putting talc at the nut to allow easier movement of string for tuning OK, 2. is putting on light gauge tape wound electric bass strings on OK? U r not liable, just your experienced opinion. Subscribing now. Thanks, Peter K
Hi Peter,
Thanks for watching! If you don't have volume issues, don't try this...it might still work even without the indentions, but I would be more hesitant since that is a different pickup design.
1. I've heard of people using something...talc is most likely fine...I think I've heard graphite and other things...honestly talc might be better.
2. I would not put full scale electric bass strings on your bass ukulele...they are not designed to have strings with a metal core on them. Even the metal strings made for U-Bass have a nylon core. The other reason is that they won't be the right gauge, so it may be hard to get them to the right pitch without having them too loose to play on. I hope that helps.
Cheers!
@@stephencoxbass yes it does, absolutely. Won't be putting on any tape-wounds. Thanks for answering my questions, Peter K
@@peterkugl Glad I could help. Cheers!
Very nice. Thanks.
I think a set of Metal Wound U Bass Strings would help. They look more like Real Bass Strings but they're softer thanks to their Nylon Core.
On the Journeyman that came with the round wounds you are describing, it still had a slight uneveness of volume between strings, but not quite as bad.
@@stephencoxbass The Roundwounds make your UBass sound like a Proper Acoustic Bass Guitar w/ a big sound, much less delicate than a Full Scale Acoustic Bass Guitar. Taylor Guitars now makes the GS Mini Bass which is a little bit bigger than the smallest Acoustic Bass & is good for a variety of jams. The Boss Kantana Air Wireless Amp is a good tool to throw in.
I recently did the cutting mod, and good news is volume works, but the bad news is the bass now outputs a very unpleasant rumble sound. My guess is cutting the saddle caused this, and even though it didn't work initially, I should go back and just retune. But I only have the cut saddle-any tips where I might get a replacement? I have a Horse brand ubass, though it looks the same as the kala.
Hmm, it could be rattling against the piece next to it? They sell replacement saddles and pickups, but I'm not positive which part is causing the rattling. I'm not as familiar with that brand, but the saddles all seem similar. Maybe someone in the ubass freaks Facebook group can help? Thanks for watching.
I have the same problem with my Kala Exotic Mahogany Ubass. However, the bass has a solid black saddle, with no slits. Is there any way to resolve this problem in a ubass with solid saddle?
I would not go about it this way...it may be better to try pulling the strings beyond the saddle up and over it a bit to try to get them to push with more pressure from that side. It may be some issue with the pickup itself. I would definitely try other options with that saddle design, though. Have you tried asking this question on the Ubass Freaks Facebook group? They might have alternative suggestions. Thanks for watching!
It would probably achieve similar results if you cut through to almost, but not quite separating the four of them.
That might reduce the stiffness enough between pickups so that each presses more firmly into the saddle slot.
Some other folks have done that, and said yes, it works well. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video! I have the same problem on my ubass but the pickup is of the other style that does not have indentations. The pickup looks like one solid black piece of plastic. I notice that if I loosen the g string the e string becomes much louder. The volume on the e string goes back to being very low if I retune the G string. Any ideas on how to fix this problem would be appreciated.
I would try adjusting the strings in different orders, and then try pulling/repositioning the E string between the saddle and the string holes in the body to where it's putting more downward pressure on the saddle/pickup. It's hard to explain in words, but it's easy to do. Basically, if there's a bit more tension in the small section of string betwern the saddle and the holes in the body just past the bridge, it should make contact with the pickup better. I hope that helps/makes sense. It worked for my Wanderer. Thanks for watching!
Nice tool and surprised me he didn’t hurt himself and I forgot about the bass matter all the way 🤣
There were a few spots that I could have exercised a bit more safety 😬 I should probably add a disclaimer to the description...lol
@@stephencoxbass We guitar players always spend lots of cash to buy tools from Stewmac for a DIY handy safety job, but anyway, I'm going to try your idea on my ubass but without a knife ! Thanks BTW you play good !
@@UCEg7z1wK Good luck, I hope it turns out great! Cheers, and thanks for watching.
Was the string volume issue occurring while the ubass was connected to a amplifier? Or was it happening without it?
Only while connected to the amplifier.
@@stephencoxbass thank you for the fast reply. And the information.
Mmm.. just have my u-bass for one day.. My low E-string reads about 10 db's lower.
Will this void my warranty though?
It very well could void your warranty. You might want to check, but I imagine it could. Try loosening and re-tightening the strings in different orders and adjustint the strings so there is more downward (rather than sideways) pressure on the pickup before trying this method. Cheers!
Thanks for the reply. Yes been trying a bunch. It even came with a paper from the distributor saying it's a known problem with tips on how to fix it. With no luck as of yet. I'm calling it a day for today..
@@jokkemartens8065 I wish you luck!
Thanks
You’re welcome.
What do you think about k and k pickups for u bass
I have yet to try that or see it in action. Have you seen/heard someone try this?
Do we need to change Kala bass strings often Please ?
I have not had to often at all. Mine have lasted for a few years each set. You might want to replace them a bit more often than that, but that has been my experience. Thanks for watching!
Hey Stephen, I feel like I may have this issue with my G string. However I'm not sure if it's instead an issue with how I'm setting my pickup or amp - normally with the treble lower than bass and mid (which would obviously cut out some of the volume from those higher G string notes). I'm not a very experienced bass player: how do you normally set your EQ levels, and do you have any suggestions for how to test this?
I usually take out some of the highs, but I don't typically have them all the way down. Usually the G string is still loud enough in those circumstances. Try adjusting the strings before trying this fix: sometimes loosening them and tightening them in a different order can help, other times just lifting the string over the saddle more will put more pressure on it and make the string louder. It's hard to explain the second idea, but getting the G string to have more pressure pushing the saddle down is the main idea.
@@stephencoxbass No that's really helpful, thanks so much for your reply!
I'm glad I could help. Cheers!
Has Kala fixed this issue. Or do you still have to do this yourself? Are there u basses where this issue doesnt exist? Chers
The more expensive models with a different pickup like the ebony, exotic mahogany, and other models in that range as well as the solid body models don’t typically have this issue. It’s more common in the entry level models, and I’m not sure if they have solved this issue yet. Thanks for watching!
can this bass uke be played without an amp? we've been looking everywhere for an acoustic bass uke
They are very quiet without an amp. The ones with metal strings project better, but are no match for the volume of an acoustic guitar being strummed. Your best bet to be heard acoustically is to get a full sized acoustic electric bass guitar with metal strings.
Thanks, Stephen. I’m sure this will help some folks here. This hasn’t been an issue for my Kala Journeyman with round-wound strings.
Thanks for watching, Robert! The higher tension of the round wounds helps a bit in this case, so that makes sense. Cheers!
I'm not understanding why you have to remove the black end caps?
Hi Mike, the black end caps hold the saddle onto the pickup assembly. You don't want to cut the metal piece with the pickup, so you remove the black end caps to separate the saddle (white plastic part) from the pickup.
@@stephencoxbass ahh I see. on my hadean the saddle literally falls our of the bridge when you removes the strings, so I wouldn't have to do that. thanx!
@@itsratso. Oh, that's convenient. Cheers!
3 comments
Nice knife, dude :D
Why doesn't Kala separate them during assembly?
Will this mod make changing the strings harder?
I think the pieces can fall out easier, but I was surprised that it worked as well as it did! If I were Kala, I'd connect them with cloth or some other material that allows them to push down separately, but still be attached in some way. It wasn't hard to put the strings back on, but you might have to worry about the pieces falling out while you thread the strings through the back. Not much harder if harder at all. Cheers!
Also, thank you, I got that knife as a gift.
I did this But Now the loose bridge pieces rattle against the pickup which creates buzzing sounds and volume issues when connected to an Amp
Hmm, just from cutting the saddle? Is there something you can put under the pieces that can help them stay in place and not rattle? Maybe a thin piece of fabric? What did you use to cut the saddle? Maybe the blade was too thick?
put the side saddles first then put the middle two right before tightening the strings
Great idea.
maybe you can help me, I have a Harley Benton electric bass ukulele, and the forth string all of a sudden started to produce really strong overtones. What can that be? thank you in advance
I'm not sure, but maybe something is rattling in/on/under the pickup near that string? I have not had that issue, so that's my best guess at the moment. Thanks for watching!
@@stephencoxbass I dont think so, everything seems to be bolted well and that piezo pick up is far enough...
@@tiketiger I'm not sure what that's about. Try checking with the "ubass freaks" forum on Facebook. Maybe someone there has encountered the same problem.
@@stephencoxbass Thank you! I will. And I will take it to the guy that does setups, I hope he will know what's the deal with that string
@@tiketiger If he works on instruments a lot, he'll know where to look for what's causing the issue, most likely. I'd guess it's something to do with the pickup/saddle/bridge and possibly how the string is resting on the saddle. Cheers!
I'm here because my Ubass puts out almost no signal from the E string. The other 3 strings seem fine, but the sound from the E string is very low-volume.
I'm noticing that there are several different models of Ubass. I'm concerned that the pickup on mine will be different from what I see here.
Kinda wish I had waited. I paid $550 for mine, which has a hollow body. Now there's a solid body version with two pickups for $350. The 2-pickup configuration probably doesn't have the same issue my hollow-body has.
I think I contact Kala, give them my model number, and see if they have recommendations for fixing it.
That’s a tough situation and highly unusual if it has the other style pickup. They work similarly, but cutting the saddle doesn’t seem right to me if it’s the more narrow design. I would definitely talk to Kala, they are usually very helpful in situations like this. Thanks for watching!
I messaged with a Kala tech, and the only solution offered was a new saddle/pickup. When it arrived, I saw that it is the same (older) style of saddle my Ubass came with, the Shadow system. I'm realizing at this point that I'm on my own with this. I know three guitar repair places in Chicago, and none of them seem eager to do anything with a Ubass.
So, details: the factory-installed saddle is tapered with the higher side of the taper on the G-string end and the lower side on the E-string end. The G is currently a bit over-amplified, while the E is under-amplified.
I'm going to try turning the saddle the other way around to see if it puts the higher-amplification end under the E string. It will require drilling a small hole through the bridge-plate to pass the pickup cable through, and removal of the Shadow volume/tone module so I can plug the cable from the saddle into it. The pickup cable has a 1/8th-inch plug attached, so at least I don't have to solder or put a crimp coupling on it. The only part I'm worried about now is the tiny screws that hold the volume/tone/tuner module onto the body of the instrument. The screws just go into the wood of the body, so I'm concerned I might not get a tight fit when I put the screws back...but I can probably overcome that by gluing some thin slivers on wood into the holes.
If it works, I will have saved about $150-200 that would have gone to a reluctant guitar repair tech. If it doesn't work...I still save that money for the time being.
@@1oolabob Have you tried the other options mentioned in my video? It may just be that the E string is not putting enough pressure on the saddle while the G string is putting too much...can you pull the E string to raise the tension between the hole the string comes through on the body and the saddle? Then you can do a tiny bit of the opposite on the G string side.
I'm sure you've thought of this, but it might be worth trying before resorting to drilling if not.
@@stephencoxbass I did an experiment: I rigged a bar clamp to press on the E string side of the saddle to see if more tension made it sound louder. And it did, but you can't really play much bass with a bar clamp hanging off the end of the instrument, right?
Anyway, I replaced the saddle yesterday. After thinking about it and doing little experiments for a week, the change-out took about an hour. I'm planning to fit the old saddle to a 3-string bass I built from a calabash gourd. Your video here definitely helped me think of how to do my repair and not to be afraid to try.
@@1oolabob That's awesome! I'm glad it worked out and wasn't a lengthy process. I'm glad I could help inspire you, but it sounds like you knew what you were doing all along. Cheers!
No offense, I would suggest a coping saw with a fine blade for cutting and a pair of pliers for removal.
No offense taken. I just used what I had around. If I decide to do this again, I will use the proper tools. Thanks for watching!
While this ended up being useful, you really should have some appropriate tools if you are doing any sort of instrument repairs. For example, a surgical needle holder for grabbing ends of strings, a small wire cutter, a pair of pliers, a set of tiny screwdrivers, a Japanese pull saw, various sandpapers, various tapes, various glues, various small clamps. You can buy all this at Harbor Freight for remarkably little money. Having these things would have made your work much safer and made this a better video.
Thank you for the list of things to look into. In the future I will try to have appropriate tools for videos like this. For this one I had to make due with what I had available. Cheers!
I must say that I enjoyed watching Stephen do all these adjustments with simple "tools". That is more or less the way I do things too. It is good to know one doesn't need all sorts of tools to get things done 😀
My E string is dull while the G sings out very loudly. It was suggested to me that this problem can be addressed by using a compressor. I bought an SP xotic and have not completely figured out how to use it for the best effect but I think it helps. Has anyone else tried it?
A compressor can help, but it has its limits (I feel like there’s a pun in there somewhere). There’s probably a tutorial on TH-cam somewhere for it. I hope it helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Stephen. I have not found a tutorial for that purpose . I agree about the limitations.
Jeweler's screw drivers and xacto or hobby size saws might work better. 😊
Great point! I should get those if I do any more mods 🤔
So did it work?
Yes, try comparing the volume of the strings in this video to the last one I did (Fretless Bass Ukulele VS Upright Bass). In that video, I had to EQ the bass with lots of treble to get the G string notes to cut through. Now I won't have to anymore. Thanks for watching!
Cool video. Any idea what can be done with fretbuzz? I have the smhg and its buzzing on the 4th fret...
It depends on what's causing it...sometimes it can be a matter of filing a fret down that it's buzzing against, other times you might have to figure out a way to raise the action. I noticed this bass had a piece of plastic under the pickup that was probably there to raise the saddle height, so maybe something of that nature could help.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but it was kind of hard to watch you do this. The way you angled that knife blade ... then the cutting. Man, I would've recommended springing for a guitar tech, or at least a person with better tools at their disposal.
In the future, if I do more of these, I will acquire some more fitting tools. Thanks for watching.
I have a fisherman u bass and there are no black dods and its not sebaretet in the bridge
Are you having these issues?
Hi. I went to the trouble of buying 3 spare piezo pickups from eBay for around 10GBP. They really are that dirt cheap! I found that the way the pickup sits in the slot is key to the volume issue. Merely removing and replacing the pickup can solve the problem. Could also be that one pickup is better than another, hence why I bought some spares! I found that fine nose pliers are better for removing, gripping the black bits! Cheers!
Cool stuff! On most of my U-Basses, I haven't had much of an issue, and repositioning the strings and tightening them in different orders was enough to fix the issue, but this is good to know, too. Cheers!
I actually thought this vid is about the Swiss knife that can do everything except hurting human beings 😂
The only time it hurt me was when I tried to use the same blade to “saw” a branch off a bush 😅 Thanks for watching and be careful out there!
Holaa, que escala es ese U bass??
According to their website, this bass uke has a 20 inch scale. Thanks for watching!
Why didn't you get the right tools before you filmed this video?
I knew the concept needed to be explained, and I wanted to film it as soon as possible. What I did worked just fine for me. Knowing how much it seems to bothers viewers, I will get the right tools if I decide to make another video of this type.
@@stephencoxbass Well done just the same. Any idgit can do the job with the perfect tools! I learned a lot. That's what's important. A great job today beats a perfect job tomorrow every time.
My E string is almost non existent LOL, have to try this.
I wish you luck! Thanks for watching!
@@stephencoxbass Just wondering if just cutting E string bridge would do the trick?
@@Nakelp86 I wondered the same thing...it might work, or it might cause the other remaining strings to do a similar thing. It's certainly worth a try.
Also, only cut the saddle (the white-ish piece) and make sure to remove it from the pickup assembly first. I know that's obvious if you watched the video, I just don't want anyone to mess up other parts of their bass ukuleles.
@@stephencoxbass yes that's obvious lol, I may get to try it sometime this week. Will try E side first and see if it works. Thx a lot.
Yikes! This was really painful to watch you using a knife like that. It's not that expensive to buy an X-acto razor saw which would make cutting the saddles safe and easy. Glad it worked for you and that you didn't slice your fingers off.
I was in too much of a hurry to make the video. Next time I will use the proper tools. Thanks for watching!
It would help when cutting to use a proper tool like a hacksaw not a pocket knife.
True, although this worked ok, strangely enough. In the future I will use proper tools if I make more videos like this one. Thank you for watching!
Good video , but why not use the correct tools for the job ? Plyers . tweezers and small hobby saw . This wood make the job much easier and safer .
I agree, but I had to use what I had available. Thanks for watching.
Proper tools would help too....
Very true, but this ended up working fine. Sometimes you have to use what you have. Either way, it's a fairly straightforward fix that works.
I just cut the one piece of th E string. Now that one is lowder than the rest. Just shiftet the problem for now😂
Oh no! It might take cutting all of them to get the sound even: The E string is able to push that smaller piece down harder on the pickup now, and the other 3 strings are still sharing a piece of plastic...so it makes sense that the E is making better contact now.
It worked with cutting them all. Thanks a lot.
So funny !
What part of it?
This looks like a demonstration of how to accidentally cut your fingers.
The concept is what's important. And no fingers were cut. I recommend getting the proper tools, but sometimes you have to use what you have. Thanks for watching.
“Indentions” has fallen out of common usage. Indentations is more common these days.
Interesting how language changes over time.
Therein lies the problem, the saddle was way too tight in the bridge! I thought you would have taken the opportunity to oil that dry fretboard while the strings were off??!!!
I didn't even think about it 🤦♂️ Thank you for watching!
Sup dude 🙂
Hello, thanks for watching!
Your welcome :)
Watching millennial's use tools is fun.. I wonder what he does when he gets a flat tire?
Would be a lot easier with right tools. Here you can get a dollar store if your strapped for cash.
True, this wasn't hard even with incorrect tools. Great advice for anyone trying this, though. Cheers!