Great video, when changing the coolant you should first refill with distilled water, run the car, drain and repeat so you get as much of the old coolant out as possible. When changing the diff oil, always loosen the fill plug first before draining, as if the fill plug strips you won't be able to refill the diff (same applies to the gearbox oil). When you've refilled the gearbox oil, you should also remove the gear gaitor (have to remove the centre console) and fill the reservoir at the base of the gear lever. Finally, I noticed you have a small rust spot on the outside of the bodywork on the driver's side, where the rear wheel arch joins the sill. This is a tell-tale sign of rot in the rear sill end panels, which probably extends into the sill itself. Mk3's are notorious for this. I would recommend you remove the rear fabric wheel arch liners on both sides and you may find a horror story underneath. It's likely the sill end panels will be rotted out, also look for rust in the wheel arches themselves, especially around the fixing studs for the fabric liners. If it's just surface rust, thoroughly clean it to bare metal and then use a rust converter and several coats of hammerite. Worst case scenario (very likely on a 2006 car) is you will need extensive welding repairs in this area and inside the rear sill itself.
Thanks Nigel. Good no nonsense commentary and clear explanations. Trust you enjoy driving the MX5. Feel free to do a driving video in glorious countryside if you would like to.
Great video having just bought an mx5 nc I am keen to get to these jobs, I am at 45k so maybe get on them in the summer. But it's great that you share how to complete these jobs because you can read all you want but it's not the same as a bloke lying under the car struggling with a 10 mm is it. Cheers. May your mx5 stay rust free
great video, part 1 too! quick quesiton, do you always jack the car up on 4 jack stands, or is there anything, or is it possible to do everything, with just 1 jack stand? thanks!
@@kach0937 axle stands are normally bought it pairs and that’s plenty. Most jobs I only use one axle stand beside the trolley Jack. I never trust the trolley Jack when I’m under the car in case it failed. If I need to change say the gearbox oil where I need the car level but jacked up then I use four axle stands. Thanks for watching.
@@NigelEaland thanks for the reply! I was considering trying to save a few pounds and only buying 2 jack stands, but since I want to change all the oils on my mx5 I may aswell take the hit
There is a proper procedure for bleeding the cooling system after changing the fluid. You need to follow this in order to remove any possibility of creating air locks and the heater not working.
I have recent bought a ten year old mx5 nc in Spain. It’s a one owner car that has only done 7000 miles and just 600 since a dealer service 3 years ago. I don’t think they have ever changed the gear and axle oils nor the coolant so I’ll get them done. What else do you think I should do?
Andy. While you are under it you may well see a lot of surface rust. MX5 are known for it. I’m getting mine rust proofed for £250. www.protectorust.co.uk/
Great video, when changing the coolant you should first refill with distilled water, run the car, drain and repeat so you get as much of the old coolant out as possible. When changing the diff oil, always loosen the fill plug first before draining, as if the fill plug strips you won't be able to refill the diff (same applies to the gearbox oil). When you've refilled the gearbox oil, you should also remove the gear gaitor (have to remove the centre console) and fill the reservoir at the base of the gear lever. Finally, I noticed you have a small rust spot on the outside of the bodywork on the driver's side, where the rear wheel arch joins the sill. This is a tell-tale sign of rot in the rear sill end panels, which probably extends into the sill itself. Mk3's are notorious for this. I would recommend you remove the rear fabric wheel arch liners on both sides and you may find a horror story underneath. It's likely the sill end panels will be rotted out, also look for rust in the wheel arches themselves, especially around the fixing studs for the fabric liners. If it's just surface rust, thoroughly clean it to bare metal and then use a rust converter and several coats of hammerite. Worst case scenario (very likely on a 2006 car) is you will need extensive welding repairs in this area and inside the rear sill itself.
Thanks for your comment. I’ll have a look.
Thanks Nigel. Good no nonsense commentary and clear explanations. Trust you enjoy driving the MX5. Feel free to do a driving video in glorious countryside if you would like to.
Thanks Anthony. I appreciate your comment. The MX5 is brilliant to drive and yes I can’t wait for the summer evenings again.
Good Video. Never thought gearboxoil and diffoil is so easy to replace.
Helpful
Just got myself a 2009 Miata Hardtop, thank you for pt1 and pt2. :) Cheers from New York
Great video having just bought an mx5 nc I am keen to get to these jobs, I am at 45k so maybe get on them in the summer. But it's great that you share how to complete these jobs because you can read all you want but it's not the same as a bloke lying under the car struggling with a 10 mm is it. Cheers. May your mx5 stay rust free
Very good information
great video, part 1 too! quick quesiton, do you always jack the car up on 4 jack stands, or is there anything, or is it possible to do everything, with just 1 jack stand? thanks!
@@kach0937 axle stands are normally bought it pairs and that’s plenty. Most jobs I only use one axle stand beside the trolley Jack. I never trust the trolley Jack when I’m under the car in case it failed.
If I need to change say the gearbox oil where I need the car level but jacked up then I use four axle stands.
Thanks for watching.
@@NigelEaland thanks for the reply! I was considering trying to save a few pounds and only buying 2 jack stands, but since I want to change all the oils on my mx5 I may aswell take the hit
There is a proper procedure for bleeding the cooling system after changing the fluid. You need to follow this in order to remove any possibility of creating air locks and the heater not working.
Could you explain?
Google the question, it’s not complicated but a number of steps.
Hi Dave big help very clear, where could i buy a bended nozzol you used to fill the oils .
Thanks
Hi Nigel, thanks for the handy instructions. How much coolant do you need?
Unfortunately a little more than 5ltrs, so I bought two cans of FL22 from www.mx5parts.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Fl22
@@NigelEaland Thanks for the quick response. Feared as much. I will buy two cans too.
Great video. Which website did you order the Mazda spares from?
Nvm, found them from one of your other comments :)
@@vrummer www.mx5parts.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_qx0ps9LAktNHbzxDEW8VXIAC2-
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your job.
I have recent bought a ten year old mx5 nc in Spain. It’s a one owner car that has only done 7000 miles and just 600 since a dealer service 3 years ago. I don’t think they have ever changed the gear and axle oils nor the coolant so I’ll get them done. What else do you think I should do?
Very helpful… does your book say how to service the PCV ? And what are the cylinder compressions when cold ?
Compression should be 12 bar / 177 psi. There are some YT videos about the PCV.
@@NigelEaland thanks
Top job mate,,, good videos ,,, fancy doing mine for me? 🤣🤣🤣👍
Thanks for watching. Good luck with yours. I’ll take a pass on doing it 😂.
@@NigelEaland your welcome,,,, yeh mines not been done for years!!!
Andy. While you are under it you may well see a lot of surface rust. MX5 are known for it. I’m getting mine rust proofed for £250. www.protectorust.co.uk/
I have a little Japanese girl friend I named Emiko she is an Mazda mx5 NC.😆
Great things arrive in small packages, mate.
You can have more fun if your favourite girl has wheels. 😊