Thanks for that.. I’m finding a few topics on my Subie for more vids 😉 I’ll be posting more practical diy and cost saving vids for it periodically, so please subscribe if you haven’t.
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 replaced these parts last night. your video came really handy. its crazy how the bulk of the work is literary making space for the part that needs to be replaced.
@@michaelr6722 yes, I could understand Subie Techs suffer from depression due to the engineering and layout 😳🙄🤔 Once you figure out the sequence of components to remove it’s pretty straightforward…but still painful 🫣
@@jonaholiver143hey jona, it’s been a while, so I re-watched my video…that brought back some bad memories🫣. I believe after removing the battery, secondary air pump and oil filler neck I likely do disconnect the hose from the secondary air pump to access the actuator…I also recall loosening the motor mounts while changing spark plugs in order to have room to get them out and back in. Sorry I can’t be more exact. I feel your pain…if it looks like it’s gonna help, it’s probably the right thing to do. I recall the actuator was a bit stuck too so I had the kind of pry and flex it a bit to get it out. In the end I did have to replace the one that coded…it was the same price thru Subaru here in western Canada as it was thru Rock Auto, so I ordered thru Subaru and saved shipping…
@@SvendIt yes it switched sides, so I ordered and installed a new one. The secondary air pump had also been acting up later on. But it’s resolved itself
The solenoid looks like it was replaced so I never pulled it out right next to it the bencher bolt and I'm still getting the same code and I think it's wasting gas is burning rich check engine light is on any suggestions please help
Thanks. There is a part 2, I did end up with a bad actuator, as I suspected it was the one I moved to the oil filler side. I bought a new one directly from Subaru…saw some guys had issues with the Dorman ones. Installed it and cleared the codes. Subie runs awesome now and have not had any issues since.
@@human_concept225 right on, by swapping sides it helps determine if it’s the actuator or another issue. I replaced mine with OEM and have not had an issue with them since. Just installed some new mufflers on it today, will likely post a video of that too. I love the sound of the Boxer, but couldn’t hear it stock 😜👍
I have p0021 one too changed the valve with doorman one code came back checked banjo bolts no screens then took my bank b valve and swapped sides with the new doorman one and the code came back again but still p0021 at bank a
Ah, that sucks. I got lucky with mine. What year is yours? Is it a turbo too? There are some good forums to get more info on. You may also find more on a google search.
thank you for making this video. extremely useful. truly a timeless diy vid
Thanks for that.. I’m finding a few topics on my Subie for more vids 😉
I’ll be posting more practical diy and cost saving vids for it periodically, so please subscribe if you haven’t.
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 replaced these parts last night. your video came really handy. its crazy how the bulk of the work is literary making space for the part that needs to be replaced.
@@michaelr6722 yes, I could understand Subie Techs suffer from depression due to the engineering and layout 😳🙄🤔
Once you figure out the sequence of components to remove it’s pretty straightforward…but still painful 🫣
Did you have to remove a hose on the driver side to remove the actuator? Having similar issue but can’t get drivers side out.
@@jonaholiver143hey jona, it’s been a while, so I re-watched my video…that brought back some bad memories🫣.
I believe after removing the battery, secondary air pump and oil filler neck I likely do disconnect the hose from the secondary air pump to access the actuator…I also recall loosening the motor mounts while changing spark plugs in order to have room to get them out and back in.
Sorry I can’t be more exact.
I feel your pain…if it looks like it’s gonna help, it’s probably the right thing to do. I recall the actuator was a bit stuck too so I had the kind of pry and flex it a bit to get it out.
In the end I did have to replace the one that coded…it was the same price thru Subaru here in western Canada as it was thru Rock Auto, so I ordered thru Subaru and saved shipping…
Did I miss something? what was the result of your test run with the solenoids switched sides? Did the problem move to the other side?
@@SvendIt yes it switched sides, so I ordered and installed a new one.
The secondary air pump had also been acting up later on. But it’s resolved itself
I changed oil. Both codes gone.
That was easy 😉👍
Sr i got the same exact model with same 2 codes 0011 and 0021, passenger side i pulled banjo bolt no filter, but the but
The solenoid looks like it was replaced so I never pulled it out right next to it the bencher bolt and I'm still getting the same code and I think it's wasting gas is burning rich check engine light is on any suggestions please help
Yeah I'll replace the actuator on the driver side and the one on the passenger side looks like brand new so I didn't even look at it
Solenoid actuators what I'm talking about
Called 0021 is for passanger side this this driving me crazy 😅
It will do that.
So far I’ve been lucky since I replaced mine, I have not had that code again.
Where u from jim I nd same job on my subaru forester xt turbo 09
Cool, thanks for subscribing and welcome to my channel 😎.
I’m in Canada, a few hours drive directly North of Montana.
Where are you?
Easy video to follow, thanks mate
Thanks. There is a part 2, I did end up with a bad actuator, as I suspected it was the one I moved to the oil filler side. I bought a new one directly from Subaru…saw some guys had issues with the Dorman ones. Installed it and cleared the codes. Subie runs awesome now and have not had any issues since.
@Jimssawsnstuff I took mine out and cleaned them and added more/thicker oli, seams to have worked but I'll replace if it throws the code again
@@human_concept225 right on, by swapping sides it helps determine if it’s the actuator or another issue.
I replaced mine with OEM and have not had an issue with them since.
Just installed some new mufflers on it today, will likely post a video of that too. I love the sound of the Boxer, but couldn’t hear it stock 😜👍
I have p0021 one too changed the valve with doorman one code came back checked banjo bolts no screens then took my bank b valve and swapped sides with the new doorman one and the code came back again but still p0021 at bank a
Ah, that sucks. I got lucky with mine.
What year is yours? Is it a turbo too?
There are some good forums to get more info on. You may also find more on a google search.