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Thanks! You too 😉👍

@@jaredchambers9842 yeh, so lucky! And I hadn’t replaced it yet 😉👍

@@markmetzger5430 thanks ! I hope you have a great week too!

@@crazyfeller5704 thanks buddy! Hope you do too 😉👍

@@nathanschneider6884 you can flip it around sure. As long as you grease it, it should be fine

@ Thanks! I appreciate the quick response. Have a good one!

@@nathanschneider6884 just like flipping your bar over weekly, grease the sprocket and that one can run the opposite direction for a week too. Evens out the wear. Just not the chain…they don’t do good running backwards 😉😳🙄😂

@ you bet, you too! I try to treat it like you’re my client/customer on here just like in the shop 😉👍

@ I have just recently developed some kind of addiction to chainsaws. Hahaha. It’s kind of uncharted territory for me though. There are some very knowledgeable and good people in the chainsaw ,you tube community and when I couldn’t find the answer by searching the web I thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask one of the best chainsaw guy’s on you tube! Thanks again! Love the videos!

@@d-railfpv9315 you know where I’m at 😉👍

@jimssawsnstuff8903 I sure do!!!

@@crazyfeller5704 hope to be testing it out on Monday

@@waynebaumgartner6858 any time buddy.

@@nheng6913 very interesting. Thanks!

@@nheng6913 I’d be interested is what your conversation involved too. I looked into a conversion to non-m-tronic for the 261 and it seemed I would need flywheel, coil and carb and well. Was that what you encountered with the 201?

@@jimssawsnstuff8903 I had a brand new 201TCM and wanted to end up with a brand new 201T. Not so easy. For the 201, there's an improvement kit (pn ends in --- --- 1802). It's purpose was to improve the early 201T, not down convert. It gives you a flywheel, ignition module and carb. Good start. Here are some major missing details: 1. the kill wire harness appearance back at the ignition module is all different. No problem, just cut splice, crimp whatever you need to do to ground that wire in that area. 2. BIG SURPRISE - my converted saw would not start, discovered that the levers on the M-tronic top handle DO NOT have a choke position ... you would have to hold back the switch into start position to choke while pulling the rope. So I sprung another $140 for a new top handle assembly for a 201T. Should drop in, right? WRONG! The wire harness has a large molded D shape grommet where it enters the engine casting. The FREAKING CASTING IS DIFFERENT on the m-tronic. Wasteful, I know but I ended up salvaging the molded portion from the m-tronic top handle. Looks great, fits well, will to its job of keeping dirt out. 3. Nuther big surprise - the non m-tronic has a different air filter cover, different base and a DIFFERENT AIR FILTER WTF !!! Thank you mr. Stihl but this is bullshit. So picked up a new cover, base part and filter. All is well. 3a. Also, the new top handle assembly and the new air filter cover now give full exposure to the H, L and LA screws. Summary, looks great, runs, cuts like a beast (with West Coast Saw CNC muffler, loud and proud). I also have a new 261 which I took great pains to buy in non m-tronic 1 year and a half ago. My advice (in addition to online and YT stuff) is to get the IPL (part lists) for both models side by side, make a list of differences, then look at the workshop manuals for both. But it's not rocket science. Just watch that carb linkage. I do not know if the m-tronic 261 has a triangular start position or not.

@ sometimes German engineering makes me wonder how they got so far in ww2

@@jimssawsnstuff8903 Good, brief video on converting MS261 here: th-cam.com/video/xegkPykRTWY/w-d-xo.html Looks simpler than the 201.

I’ll have to check into it a bit, honestly was just a catchy title 😉👍

Yeh, but it sounds odd in the video, it had moved under the metal stool from the vibration of it idling…I realizeD that when I went in to check on it after I did the short clip from the other room 😜

@@markmetzger5430 thanks! I’m looking forward to it too, especially since the weather warmed up 😎👍

@@patrickvennard838 thanks! Thanks! I was thinking about that last night too. My Dad had one whet he was in his early 60’s that he’d bought for firewood cutting with.

Perfect! I wrote a note in the description and added your fb profile, so people can find you

@@zdesar191 I bought the replacement thru the Stihl dealer, I believe it was $120 (CAD). That’s a couple years ago now and I returned the saw to it’s owner, so that’s about all I can tell you

@@jimssawsnstuff8903 Thank you. Cheers

@ good luck! Good old saws, aftermarket ignition isn’t a reliable option…aftermarket for some other stuff is ok

@@markmetzger5430 thank man, I appreciate it 😉👍

@@Ghost5w20 well, it may hold its rpm better in the cut, it’s basically gearing it down x %.

@@waynebaumgartner6858 yeh, lots of heat and friction when the get that much extra air! It’s worse in person when you see how the plating is lifting due to the heat and friction

@@902hand7 haha, yeh, oh well.

Thanks! I appreciate it. Supposed to have a chinook this week, actually going to be above freezing 😉

Right on. Yeh I’m pretty religious about fuel stabilizer…I posted it for sale and one of the buy and sells here only uses links from TH-cam for videos for their ads

@@joewelder6780 thanks, today I’ll get a bit further with it hopefully 🤞

@@patrickvennard838 yes, It keeps the stock look, But offers as much flow as other models complicated mods. Plus this keeps the spark arrestor screen functional as originally designed

@@patrickvennard838 thanks, According to the analytics, most of the viewers only watch for 1:39, but only 7% subscribers…so I definitely value the feedback from subscribers 😉👍 I’ve got some parts saws here, it’s more about the $/time to do a complete teardown, but will see what happens

@@crazyfeller5704 thanks ! 😎👍

@@crazyfeller5704 thanks, me too 😉

Man that sucks, hope it works out for him Jim

@ thanks, me too! 😉👍

@@jaredchambers9842 Forsure! You guys have to put up with my lack of editing skills and stuff. I’ll try to put them in a playlist in several parts as I reassemble it

@@johnr9655 where you located? Try @WayneBaumgartner6858

​@@jimssawsnstuff8903 I'm in Indiana. If you know anywhere around that has somthing, I'm all ears! Much appreciated

@WayneBaumgartner6858

@@johnr9655 try @waynebaumgartner6858

@waynebaumgartner6858 you seeing this?

@@tomasznumrych7187 Echo uses the thrust washers too. Sometimes a shim thru the wrist pin to attest support the washer works. I’ve got an Echo 4910 here to do at some point, so I’ll try to cover that in my re-assembly

@jimssawsnstuff8903 I ended up using assembly grease to temporarily "glue" the thrust washer in place and used a punch through the wrist pin to sort of align it all, but it took a few tries not to dislodge the washer as I was pushing the wrist pin in. Do they make a special tool for this that you know of?

@ there is always a special tool somewhere, just depends how often you’ll need it vs the price 😉