I’ve included some rigid forks for mountain bikes in the description of this video. This isn’t every one out there, but it’s some of the forks I’ve considered for future builds.
Great Recomendations, have You maybe any slightly cheaper other options to recomend? I'm lookin for a rigid fork for my Marin Bobcat Trail 2021 for replace very heavy SR Suntour XCM 120mm
I'm 50 now. I started mountain biking when every bike was a stiff frame and fork. Then we see these odd balls with suspension forks, then full suspension bikes. So many people thought that was cheating, or wasn't real mountain biking (kinda like how some feel about e-bikes). It's funny to see it coming back around.
I remember seeing a full suspension bike for the first time and thinking that is ridiculous and expensive. Lol. They have come a long way. Now I have both a full ridged and full suspension. Ride on 🤘
I like rigid because it acts as a limiter for my recklessness. Full suspension has me going so fast and so big, I seem to hurt myself every other ride. Hardtails are awesome but similarly allow me to stay off the brakes in some chutes, super fun but inherently risky. Rigid bikes remind you the instant things get a little out of control, right at that margin where any bike is the most fun. Efficiency, weight, stable geo, and avoiding fork rebuilds are huge bonuses for sure. Thanks for the video!
I agree about the limiter thing. I'm 63 and don't bounce as well as I used to. I figure that my rigid Krampus means that I'll be going a bit slower when I inevitably crash.
I recently switched from a FS bike to rigid. All carbon 29er with 1x drive train. Light and smooth. I ride smooth fire road and single track. No jumps. No drops. It’s epic!
I started out on a rigid MTB, and I stuck with it. I started on one because I wasn't sure how I'd like mountain biking; I thought it was a good way to get my feet wet. I did some technical and trail riding years ago, but now, fire roads are about as technical as I get. These days, I mostly stick to the street, bike paths, and hardpack canal trails, so my bike is set up accordingly. A rigid is fine the riding I do, so I stuck with mine. Why get anything more if you don't need it?
If someone has budget constraints yet has the time, I’d recommend a frame up build. It will take a longer time overall but you also get more out of it: 1) you get exactly the bike build you want, 2) you end up with a working set of tools you actually need and will use, 3) you pay yourself back by learning the skills to build and maintain a bike, building your own wheel set, and from the enjoyment of learning how to ride a crazy rigid bike. I love my rigid single speed Trek Stache build, and I really like the option that I can always make it a complete bulldozer with 29x3 tires and 140mm of travel.
I highly recommend doing your own bike maintenance/builds too. It’s almost all surprisingly simple, saves money, and is actually pretty enjoyable. Unfortunately building from the frame up can be more expensive a lot of the time because you don’t get the bulk discounts the manufacturers get on components, so unless you’re finding good deals or using used parts, it can easily pass a complete bike build in price.
@@RideYearRound True. I save money by buying Kona full bike Parts. Lot of stuff on eBay. Stems, posts, Bars. People Charge Parts of full bike builts a Lot. Remove logos with Aceton
This is the only way I get bikes. Frame or frameset only. Building up from scratch gets me working close up with it. I end up loving those builds waaaaay more than an already built and specd bike. Ive sold all new bike completes that ive bought but own all the builds.
Never thought I’d be this guy but “ When I was a lad we only had rigid bikes”.., Ok seriously when I raced in the 80’s we only had rigid bikes, tuning the suspension meant adjusting the tire pressure. The day after a race you woke up with every single joint in your body popping and clicking. You had to pick your route stone by stone, but it was still fast and epic fun. I clocked 51mph and still had folks past me. If you’re thinking about a full rigid, do it. It’s hardcore. You’ll love it.
I remember going down the Kamikaze full tilt with my Bridgestone MB2. You aimed down the middle because your vision was so blurry. Also your teeth hurt from rattling so bad. Good times...
Ah, the good old days mate. When bikes were bikes and sheep were frightened. Throwing the 29-32lb bike onto your shoulder and scrambling up the side of mountains in all weathers. Of all the 25 odd bikes I have had since 84, only about 3 had shocks and they were off quicker than you could say John Tomac ;-) Speed is relative. 35 mph down Snowdon on a rigid steel frame and fork would scare the crap out of yer ( as you know ). In 2007 I bought a GT Pantera frame second hand, bought Cro-mo forks, an old XT retro gruppo I had lying about along with the trusty 7 sp thumb shifters and I wouldn't swap it for the world. And yes, I do have bar ends :-)
Totally agree. The best part about a fully rigid bike is that it makes "boring" trails spicy and exciting again. Also it builds skill. You need to be on top of those wheel lifts now. Only drawback really is lack of comfort. It'll beat you up so it may not be the best if you have joint pains.
Added a vintage softride suspension stem and a suspension seat post to my rigid bike and it makes a world of difference in comfort and increases my speed. Plus no bobbing out of the saddle or on climbs. Not as plush as FS, but a happy medium. 😊
The "efficiency" argument for rigid bikes really needs to fall by the wayside. If you're climbing over even remotely uneven terrain, a full-sus bike with the rear shock *open* is actually significantly more mechanically efficient. If rigid bikes were actually more efficient, they would be faster, and the quickest riders in the world would be utilizing the "simple, direct, efficient" rigid bikes to win races. As it sits, the fastest and most efficient bikes in the world are short-travel full-suspension, so I'm not buying any claim that a rigid bike is a better climber in any scenario except on pavement. Regarding failure from impact - I would highly doubt that a suspended bike would be more likely to experience catastrophic failure from a drop test. Just think about it - the duration of impact for the suspended bike is so much longer, so the same impact gets spread out over a greater moment. Just imagine repeatedly hucking off a 3-foot tabletop to flat with a full-sus bike versus a fully rigid bike - which one would break a part first, and after how many drops? My money is on a sheared pedal spindle for the rigid bike. And the geometry argument - sure, your geo numbers are relatively the same when your front wheel hits a rock in the trail - but then your front wheel either completely changes direction, or loses contact with the ground entirely. In both of those cases your geometry numbers cease to mean anything, because you're either suddenly changing direction against your will or you're temporarily losing contact with the earth, neither of which are favorable handling characteristics, geometry sheet be damned. I feel like this video could be distilled into two points - Go fully rigid if you a) want to ride tame trails while keeping them engaging (with the additional bonus of not going so ludicrously fast that crashing means dying, and also learning more about line choice and bike handling), and b) if you want a simpler bike that costs less to buy/maintain. Both of those were totally valid reasons that you brought up, but they're let down by specious claims about a more "efficient" or "stronger" bike. Such points are straight out of the pursed lips of a crossed-arm back-of-the-bike-shop curmudgeon. And please don't fall into the trap of "things were simpler in the old days and they worked", because it's a slippery slope leading to a Sarlacc pit where logic goes to die. But I get it, it's TH-cam, so the topic has to be "Why you SHOULD ride a rigid MTB" not "Pragmatic reasons for considering mellow rigid MTB enjoyment as opposed to death-defying full-suspension insanity".
NIce wording. but I would emphasize how its divisiv to claim its better and push to create a not so humble opinion but glorifying one narrative. Alot of the bike feel is subjective but I wouldn't ride a rigid down drops and high jumps. even for daily use on gravel that less vibration from the terrain with a fork suspension keeps my hands and shoulder fresh even on long rides of gravel uphill or downhill
A very logical and well-presented point-of-view. Based on science and physics. It is amazing to me how many people actually believe that suspension or wide tires are inefficient all anything-- what glass smooth surfaces. Hysteresis losses. 👍 Don't even get me started about idiots that claim their will ride Reckless if they have a full suspension, oh my goodness!
Thanks for the comment, I like to hear feedback and other points of view on things like this. In regards to fork failure, I wasn't talking about a fork failing from impact, I was talking about the cage/bag mounting solutions available for fork lowers failing in a crash. However, I have had issues with more than one fork on the trail having some sort of failure and also blown a rear shock, so it's not an impossibility. If you've never ridden a rigid bike with plus or fat tires, it's a very different experience than one with "normal" tires. I've rarely experienced any major deflection or loss of contact with the ground on a rigid plus bike...not to say it doesn't happen, but it's not like riding some wild bucking horse all the time. You can also ride black/double black on them too...you just have to rely on technique and line choice more than your suspension travel. I'll also say I'm not advocating that everyone ride a rigid mountain bike all of the time for every situation. I'm pretty sure nobody thinks a single style of bike is good for all riding disciplines. If you like to do epic 50 milers on backcountry singletrack, but also hit the lift access bike park sometimes...there's a really good chance you'll have two bikes that look pretty different from each other. If I wanted to go ride Big Sky or Whitefish all the time, I'd have a mid/long travel full suspension for it.
@@RideYearRound Totally agree, horses for courses. I owned a first-generation Krampus for a few years when I lived in Santa Cruz, and it was an absolute blast to ride around the forests there. I focused less on "sending it" and used it more as a vehicle for meditating on a bike in a forest. The "grown-up BMX" vibes were real with that bike, and absolutely nothing I've owned since picks up and holds momentum like a 29+ bike. But, as I said before, it was my experience that as the trails turned to black diamonds, and the rock gardens grew to watermelon-sized rocks and beyond, a full-suspension bike was undeniably better-suited. Now that I live in the PNW and ride mostly "natural" trails, I couldn't possibly imagine riding a Krampus, as fond as my memories for that bike are. You're typically seeing 2000 ft of elevation for every 10 miles (sometimes even more), and that comes in lurches and lumps of 20-25% gradients, with tight switchbacks thrown in. Roots abound, and I care not for picking up tremendous momentum when I'm picking my way along a narrow bench-cut with a sheer drop off down the leeward side. I brought an XC hardtail to this new environment, and I'm currently in the process of putting a rigid fork on it - but I'm doing this to ride the chunkier "gravel" rides, not to entertain anything that qualifies as "mountain biking" around these parts. And the part about sus-fork bikepacking is duly noted - although it only really applies to steel pack-mount forks, because taking a serious digger on a carbon rigid fork would likely bugger the pack mounts if it was serious enough to mess up a suspension fork. And yes, having more moving parts means maintaining and being mindful of them. Shocks require that you be mindful of them overheating on prolonged descents, minding the air pressure, cleaning the stanchions, checking and servicing the seals, servicing the fluid, yada yada. But again, horses for courses; if I was riding the Great Divide, by all means I would ride a rigid MTB, but if I was riding the Colorado Trail or the AZT, I would happily put up with the pragmatic shortcomings of bikepacking with a suspension fork. I think the most compelling argument for rigid bikes comes in the form of a question - what is mountain biking to you? I think far too often people get put on a conveyor belt of constantly ratcheting the gnar-bar higher and higher, but your channel (and a few others) is a great reminder that off-road riding is about more than hucking giant gaps so that you have something to talk about at work the next day (or, heaven forbid, so you have something cool to post on the 'gram). A rigid bike is a great way to pull back from the cliffs of insanity, the dreams of Red-Bull Rampaging every time you get on a bike, and instead suggests plugging into something both more mellow and immersive.
I have ridden some light-to-medium trails fully rigid and it is actually a great time. Put the psi a little lower and really get involved on the bike .You won't be doing much sitting, but you will be doing a lot of smiling!
I have both a rigid fork bike and front suspension bike, both middle upper quality, and hands down the front suspension bike makes the ride on rough terrain more comfortable and enjoyable. Hands down. Nice to have choice.
Been having a fun time testing the limits of my rigid gravel bike on single track lately. Throwing a dropper on made a world of difference. I have ridden hard tails without a dropper before, but with drop bars I find a rigid post just wants to throw you over the front end too much. With the seat dropped i can actually stay level and use my arms and legs as suspension instead of having my body pitched forwards. 40c tires are still pretty small, but they have been surprisingly capable on green- blue level single track, and they still roll super well on the road as well. Can't say I am ready to give up my full sus yet, but I can imagine throwing a rigid mtb in my stable in the future.
I have to partly disagree in terms of efficiency. Especially on demanding and rough climbs, a clever build full sus with platform damping is far superior to a rigid bike because the rear wheel will not bounce arround as much. Hence it will be more efficient due to the the fact that you can put down the power more continuously. Maybe very skilled riders can accommodate for the lack of traction with riding technique but in general i guess the modern short to midtravel full sus will have the edge in this situation. But apart from that I totally agree with most of your points. Simple rigid bikes are just massive fun
I think you are confusing effectiveness with efficiency. Due to its nature, damping will always consume energy and not return most of it, in a full suspension you're trading that loss in efficiency in favor to gain traction and saving on fatigue through vibration that reaches your body, at the expense of pedalling efficiency. I can tell easily tell the difference between my Santa Cruz Blur (One of the most efficient dual sus bikes out there) against my Specialized AWOL running 29x2.2 tires (Not even a frame made for racing, but for adventure/touring). Unless things are very rough that I cannot put the power down the pedals, usually the AWOL will fatigue me less during long climbs with some roots and rocks and when it comes to fire roads/hardpack or even worse asphalt, difference is a a lot. Don't have numbers since none of them have a power meter, but I'm willing to say in smooth roads I have to put out 10% less effort with the fully rigid. The blur shines when there are technical climbs, where even more powerful riders than me struggle due to lack of traction and I can more effectively put power down the road, but that's it for the full squish.
@@almabatekert_villanykorte3387 In life, having more money will always help you save money. Having an extra bike will always help you maintain your other bike. You won't be in a hurry for replacement parts just so you can ride. You will be able to wear out your cheap bike rather than your nice one. Also, a very basic bike, like a rigid single speed, will require less maintenance. How much is a cassette these days? $300? I've replaced the "cassette" on my single speed for as cheap as $18. And that included the freewheel! With simple bike, you can pack on the miles and not worry about spending big dollars to do so.
“Now that I’ve convinced you….” Hardly. My MTB riding began in 1988 so I’m very experienced with fully rigid trail riding. In 1994 I got my first suspension fork. One thing I noticed immediately was the severe osteoarthritis I was developing in both thumb MCP joints (knuckles) immediately started getting better. If front suspension had never been invented I probably would have eventually had to give up the sport. Rigid is fine on smooth, gravel bike worthy trails like you are showing in your video but a real trail will beat the hell out of your body on a fully rigid bike.
Exactly. People now have bought into the rigid gravel bike idea and use the gravel bike for everything.....at a certain speed the bike is no longer touching the ground, hitting the brakes means nothing. Tires are barely touching the ground..............the next trick is hands popping off the bars and rider launching over the bars and bike running over rider,.................this video is a joke pretty much..............I rode old rigid mt bikes and the abuse is extreme.
I have never owned suspension or hardtail, but I have two 29+ rigids and love them! One is a 30lb steel frame and the other is a 20lb titanium frame with carbon fiber fork and wheels. Each has their own advantages, but both are a blast to ride!
Totally agree on the fun factor. When it comes to performance, theres hardly any convincing argument outside of bikepacking and Cycling. If you dont want to send jumps or gnarly downhills, this probably is a possibility to Spice it Up. Simplicity is great because you dont have to maintain a lot, therefore youre able to ride more careless and just for the sake of Riding. I think some are misunderstanding your idea: Rigidity isnt Superior in Performance, but in maintenance, simplicity and parts longevity. If thats what youre looking at, Go for it. This will be enough to fulfill most Bikers. Many are also often overbiking but Missing Out on the fun of simplicity
I think a lot of people are over-biked (whether they realize it or not) and would really benefit from riding a bike that allows their skills to be challenged a little more. Do I think this should be done all the time/on every trail? Definitely not...they make bikes with different travel, geo, etc. for a reason, but man it's fun to ride a rigid bike.
I agree, a full rigid 29+ would be ideal, but you only find them in a niche category (adventure and bike packing), and even fewer offerings that comes complete with 29x3. Finally settled on a Jones LWB, handles beautifully and more comfortable than any the FS bikes I'd ever ridden before. If only there were more 29+ for FS geeks to try out there, we'd have more converts.
One if the biggest ironies of full suspension is that it’s a lot more forgiving for novice riders, but you sort of need to know how to wrench to own a full suspension bike. Shock set up alone is beyond a lot of people’s technical abilities. Also, rough terrain requires a lot more repair during down time.
I have a rigid old 3-speed 26" bike. It just feels like biking. I've ridden it since 2011, since I was a kid. I'm connected to it on a spiritual plane. :P
Yeah...I started my first Kona mountain bike with rigid fork/ 7er speed, later GT many years ago. Perfect to control, punchy and great for decent climbing!! Greetings from XC rider Kuala Lumpur.
I agree with all of this I've had more fun on the trail with a single speed full rigid than a full suspension cause it puts you more in tune with the trail way more nimble on switchbacks,jumps,and negating rocks and gnar sections gives you better balance and control.Just simply way more old school fun.
I will take my Stumpy FSR 29er in the "gnar" any day of the week. You are out of your mind if you think a rigid is better on jumps or "negating rocks." What all of this rationalization means is that you will ride slower and not attempt trail features. When I see guys on rigid bikes, even on blue trails, it is when I alert them I need to pass. I rode a rigid Trek 830 back in '93 on hiking trails. There were no mtb trails where I live back then. It sucked. Bought a Cannondale F500 w a 80mm Headshock and never went rigid again for trail riding, except my fatbike, but 4.25 tires provide plenty of give.
i ride a fully rigid 27.5 mtb. i ride w/ groups where every other rider has either a suspension fork or full suspension. the only place i feel i’m lacking is on steep rocky descents. however… there are many descents that i can do that guys on full suspension bail out on… bottom line is rigid bikes are FUN.
Great vid and glad you’re loving your ride. But this guy whose first mtb was a fully rigid 1990 is never going back. My full squish allows me to do sh*t as an old banged up guy I never would have imagined. Course dropper seat posts and modern geo help a lot too, but my joints really appreciate the sus. I do think though that everyone should start on fully rigid or at least a HT. Teaches you how to ride properly and learn about what trail features will do to you so you can better pick a line or be better prepared for the effects of a feature. 🤙
I put an ENVE fork on my Chumba Stella with a 29x3.0 tire last August…I have not been been at all tempted to go back to a suspension fork yet. It’s such a great ride with the ENVE fork. So yeah rigid is totally fun and a great skill builder for riding better lines vs. inefficiently plowing through (which can be just as rough feeling)
@@glenpiolofficial5825 I mainly use a Bontrager XR2 29x3.0 (it’s light and fast). I also use a Bontrager XR4 29x3.0 (it has way more cornering traction)
Grew up on BMX in the 90s and early 2000s, and then skipped about 20 years. I was always a skater and snowboarder first. Been back in it for a couple years with the latest stumpy iteration that I love on our Alaskan trails, but could never shake the thought that a modern trail hardtail, or even BMX to underbike my common trails, would be super fun. Recently picked up a new karate monkey, and it's truly the big-kid MTB-BMX-monster truck fantasy I was looking for. The excitement and simple funky feeling it delivers is what I didn't even know I'd missed for so long. AND it's purple! And it's mechanical! And I can make it whatever I want! I love embracing the concept that fun most often doesn't come in a linear form. "More" isn't just better. Sometimes the reason you're having fun comes from simplicity, and having "less." But is it really "less?" Feels like "more" to me. I'm sure plenty of folks know this book, but I grew up with a Mickey Mouse story in which he starts with a small boat to head out on the water with Pluto. He then wants to take a friend, and then a few more friends, and a few more, and eventually ends up with a large vessel that he doesn't use as often, and it becomes a stress. He circles back to his tiny boat, and finds himself loving it again. That concept carries over into many things in life, and that's how I feel about simple, reliable bikes like these. I think it's a beautiful thing to have variety, but don't overlook the roots. It's not uncommon that advanced technology ends up muting the experience itself (even though it can open up so many new experiences)
Rigid mountain biking is bringing back good old days of mountain biking when there even wasn't so much trail riding like nowadays, because it was such pain to drive offroad, driving with full suspension e-bike is so much easier, it is like driving with motorcycle and you will go much faster. One good thing about rigid mountain bike is that it will keep trails more calm and peaceful when you can't ride so fast.
Riding a ridged frame here at a place on the west coast that sees mountain bikes of all kinds most every day. A mountain-bike from 1989 and out of my three bikes,...it's become my favorite. Had it for decades and ridden the heck out of it. I'm the only one riding a ridged out here except for the gravel bikes but I go where they don't. A rigid mountain bike is maybe the best of both worlds. Mine still has the 3x5 shimano gear-set, stock wheel size and canti brakes. Two/three finger pull and the wheels lock up. No need for disks. No need for a lot of service. It just works month after month with little maintenance needed. It's no slouch on flat pavement/gravel yet climbs steep grades and single track like crazy - up to the point the tires loose traction. Extreme downhill or massive jumps? Nope! No comparison to a suspension bike. Not my thing anyway. Too old for that. But everything else is everything stated here. Getting a suspension seat post and different bars helps smooth things. Cheers.
I recently rebuilt a mystery MTB from the early 80's (?). It is all rigid. I turned it into a 1X7, urban 26" tires. It is the most fun of any bike I have ever built or rode.
It also lessens the weight the front suspension let alone rear suspension also adds. It becomes pretty bomb proof, and it looks less out of place in public as an all around bike. If you have to pick up your bike going up, or down steps etc every extra pound is noticeable especially if can cut it down by 10+ extra pounds.
We used to jump our bmx bikes down 6-7 stairs to flat, on cement. 60 psi in the tires…sounds awful these days but, it’s fun to feel the ground on a steel bike in particular.
One thing that you should have highlighted more is how it can increase your skills. It come out of necessity since rigid forks are unforgiving if you make a mistake on the trail. Good video btw.
I rode a rigid Spec Fatboy Carbon for 5 years after 20 years on a full suspension. I have to say it made me a better rider. Last year I bought a new Spec Enduro and I'm back on full sus, but now with sharper skills thanks to the rigid bike. I still ride the fatboy on easy xc trails just for fun!
My only rigid bike is my Fatbike, and the tires are the suspension. It is as low tech as you can get w/o going singlespeed. I ride it in all kinds of gunk in the winter including road salt. Everything gets contaminated. It has mech brakes and so I can make easy fixes and adjustments. Going tubeless and carbon bars really changed the performance of the bike. Otherwise, I'm riding w suspension. Gotta use the right tool for the job.
I like this, being thinking about it. Bikes are getting too complicated, they even have electronic shifters now, that's why we have cars and look how they are doing reliability wise, I'm upgrading my fork to this...or downgrading it.
Have a 30 yr old Schwinn Woodlands FULLY ridged. I am the one and only owner. Had it out on the trails today for about and hour and a half. Very true analysis. More torque, responsive steering, cost effective. Have to look sharp for obstacles and maneuver appropriately or it can buck you off like a wild horse. 😣
Completely agree , you need a `loose relaxed `hand on downhill bumps but there soooo much lighter and more fun ..and way cheeper to maintain . swapped my trek one out to a rigid when the forks were no longer rescuable, way better all round . Also with new forks i was able to adjust the handle bar height to perfection .
I've been riding a Jones LWB for the past couple of years on all the trails I can. Absolutely love the feel of a well thought out rigid. Pity that they have gotten so pricey, though.
My first mtb was a 1991 fully rigid 26" and it got me hooked on mtn biking. Not too keen on going back to the beginning where i started, but I did go back to a hardtail, all be it a plus hardtail. I am thinking of taking my 1998 Barracuda XC URT frame and building it up with a rigid fork. Sort of a soft tail gravel bike w/ 26" wheels
@@Bob-hq5lj I am going to strip my wife's 1995 Marin Muir Woods of its parts; wheels, shifters, cranks, derailleur, and brakes. The frame is way too small for me which is why I am not using her old bike as a gravel bike.
just in time! i'm going to convert my fatbike to a rigid 29 for a summer riding. rigid is my way to go, as i service my bikes completely by myself and suspension is one problematic thing to operate on.
I used to ride my SS full rigid. Then I got into more long distance runs and realized just how much more energy you expend on a full rigid. Got a Judy with only 100mm travel and I can now do more distance with less fatigue and less upper body stress. I still miss the feedback and weight of the full rigid. I remember the first time on a techy rock section with the Judy I actually wrecked and rolled down a drainage path. The reason was I was so used to the momentum of the rigid allowing me to pop the front wheel over rocks and roots. The suspension ate up that momentum and I stalled out at the worst possible time. Lesson learned, and I adjusted my style. But I still miss the directness.
Early Mountain bikes look cooler as well.. Biggest advantage of full rigid is if you are riding non technical gravel type stuff and lots of road sections.. If you set it up close to your road position on a old school frame it gives great performance !
I ride a late 80s rigid mountain bike with 3x8 drivetrain, cantilever brakes, 26" wheels. I get a lot of looks on the local single tracks, but most of the trails really don't need suspension. I do envy the dropper posts on modern mountain bikes though.
I like suspension a lot. Front and rear,much like cars and motorcycles suspension works great on bicycles.....by all means knock yourself out though. Impact can be very meaningful.
I remembered back when I got my 1st mountain bike in the early 2000. Back then, the sport was relatively new, the fun in mountain biking was all about the challenge and overcoming obstacles, and don't forget, we only had 26'ers, skinny 1.somethin tires, and V-brakes, and you got to be one of those super fit skinny roadie type to be able to race and endure the harsh terrains on that vintage full rigid. So yea, how could the introduction of front shocks and eventually rear shocks not make mountainbiking more fun back then. If it weren't for the introduction of 29'ers and FAT tires, I don't know that I would ever have gone back to the simplicity of full rigid. 29+ should be perfect, handles well, rolls smooth, dampens the bumps adequately. 26x4 plus was bit of a challenge, too much pull on turns.
My favorite bike is my Cogburn CB4 fully rigid fatbike. With 26"×4" tires, it rides like a 29" with superb traction. I never think about the "lack" of suspension. It doesnt need it. The tires absorb the shock. Better yet i can adjust the squish with air pressure and never have the e,tra weight of suspension forks. Im VERY interested in getting a Surly now for bike camping.
To each their own. I'm over 50, bolted together, creaky and broken down. Suspension can take up that slack for me on trails. Growing up un rigid bikes was great for skills tho--when I got my first bikes with suspension, I still steered around things on the trail. Took a while to learn I could just go the straightest line and it did not matter.
Bravo!!! I’ve said the same for years but haven’t been able to make a video as good. Rigid. Makes you choose your line and body position. It is right in line with skills with Phil short travel philosophy. Take it another level with a single speed. My recommendation for a rigid 29er fork. Carver XC 490.
I like a full rigid MTB.... mostly because I suck at mountain biking and tend to ride slow enough to avoid the trees which have a habit of jumping out in front of me....😁👍...and because old MTBs look way better than new ones ...
Fully rigid is lighter, and makes climbing easier. With more of the weight in the back going downhill requires less drop to the back as well. I tested monster climb of about 20-25° for 1000ft between two bikes one being a 26" fully rigid and a 29" front suspension. The 29 is about 6 pounds heavier being the bigger bike however being 6ft tall I need a bigger frame than a 26. Still I am 30 seconds faster on the fully rigid because it locks out and and can put all the force in the climb. Most of my riding is road riding and I do simple trail riding for fun. A gravel cross bike is more my preferred bike.
I have 20+ bikes. My everyday/fav is a trek 3700 frame with all hollowtech/deore xt and rigid fork. Does everything well but nothing great. Never breaks. Lite as a feather!
I ride a 26 size S bike, with a 100 mm suntour fork, that has actually become fully rigid because the previous owner thrashed it. The problem with riding rigid bikes is that they'll beat you up on rough downhill runs. I can't afford a new bike, so i always come home with my ankles and wrists hurting.
There's a fair chance that I'll be swooping out the suspension fork on my old MTB this summer. Planning to take it down to South Africa where it'll do as a holiday gravel bike when I'm there and a utility bike when I'm not.
When you're still young or those older ones but with really strong bone structure, yes to a full rigid bicycle. But for most older people who go cycling on weekends/or on their free time do have very tiring and back breaking jobs, at least a bicycle with a front fork is the best option.
I haven't ridden a modern, rigid mtb, but I did used to ride my dad's old hybrid with 40mm tires. It was a blast on easy trails, except when I had to change tubes mid-ride every couple of weeks.
Yeah then you might as well change out the fork for a Ridgid work since you're not using it doesn't make any sense but if you feel better then I guess that's what matters right? Feelings... 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮
I rented a Surly rigid recently while on holiday, a sort of adventure bike with 3-4 inch tyres. It was huge fun on gravel forest roads but really awful on rooty single track. It was really hard to control the steering in the bumps without it being deflected. Won’t be doing that again in a hurry!
Tire pressure is critical on a rigid bike and in the plus/fat tire world. Not saying that’s the problem here, because rooty singletrack is tough on a rigid, but it sounds like the pressure was way too high which wouldn’t help.
In my opinion I feel like fully rigid bikes can give you more control over the bike and where you go as you wouldn't 'feel' the ground as much if you had suspension sinking into the bumps.
I grew up mountain biking when i was young. Over a decade later i tried a suspension bike and i honestly hated it. I don’t like how its bouncing around and moves when riding, especially when i first got on the bike and it sunk down. I prefer the old no suspension, but i do like the new disc brakes.
much like other commenters. I have ridden a fully ridgid bike. And if you only have low skill required, relatively flat green and blue trails where you live go for it. But for anywhere with technical features, or fast rough trails. A suspension fork will always work better. if 1000m of decent is tiring on a full suspension, there is no way that I would do it on a rigid bike.
I built up my old 07 Marin Rocky Ridge with rigid forks just because I felt so 'over biked' on my local trails with my full sus trail bike. It isnt quick but its great fun and makes the ride a lot more interesting. I'm unlikely to take it for a day's riding at the Forest of Dean though.
Yep, agree with all of this. I ride fully rigid plus all the time, super fun. I especially like the efficiency when going from a down to an up, stand out of the saddle and the bike just springs forward. Thanks for the video!
And here I am going the other direction. I've always been happy with hard tails as a commuter-first, fun-on-the-trail-second kinda guy. But after messing up my back pretty good on some nasty asphalt I took at speed, I think I'm going to save myself actual spinal injury one day go either suspension seat or full squish. rigid bikes do have pretty consistent control, though.
A suspension seat helps a little. Been running one for 6 years, still wish for full squish sometimes. A rough ride can still leave me feeling rattled (also have back issues).
I think it's horses for courses. The type of riding conditions shown are relatively mellow compared to our local trails and suit the rigid bikes. However at the age of 65 comfort is number one in my book and tbh have only had one suspension related mechanical in any of my bikes over the years and still got home. Some of the suspension set ups are relatively bob free like my SC Bronson. Roll on suspension......
Right on time advise as my hard tail cannondale has a damaged front suspension, a lefty, that I’m not able to find someone to fix or a new one to replace for a year now! I’ll see if the mechanic can make that for rigid and give it a try.
I’ve started a “grountain bike” conversion on my Framed Marquette. Just ordered 45mm tires and a small clamp-on aero bar. Bike has a Fox 32SC 100mm I have been looking at replacing with a Whisky carbon fork for this build.
Just bought a Surly Ghost Grappler and it's at the shop getting the drop bars swapped for moloko. I already felt that fun factor (like when you're a kid) with the drop bars but the alt bar is going to be amazing. I haven't touched the FS bike in a while.
I’ve included some rigid forks for mountain bikes in the description of this video. This isn’t every one out there, but it’s some of the forks I’ve considered for future builds.
Great Recomendations, have You maybe any slightly cheaper other options to recomend? I'm lookin for a rigid fork for my Marin Bobcat Trail 2021 for replace very heavy SR Suntour XCM 120mm
On a plus or fat bike, one can lower air pressure in their tubeless front tire to give them some suspension in a simple way, agreed?
I'm 50 now. I started mountain biking when every bike was a stiff frame and fork. Then we see these odd balls with suspension forks, then full suspension bikes. So many people thought that was cheating, or wasn't real mountain biking (kinda like how some feel about e-bikes). It's funny to see it coming back around.
I think the suspension is its own thing but not cheating. E-bikes are powered vehicles that produce some of the wattage themselves.
I mean I'm on a full rigid ebike so like yes the circle is complete
@@TheBcoolGuy is it really cheating if you're not racing?
I remember seeing a full suspension bike for the first time and thinking that is ridiculous and expensive. Lol.
They have come a long way. Now I have both a full ridged and full suspension.
Ride on 🤘
@@TheBcoolGuyMost of the wattage
I like rigid because it acts as a limiter for my recklessness. Full suspension has me going so fast and so big, I seem to hurt myself every other ride. Hardtails are awesome but similarly allow me to stay off the brakes in some chutes, super fun but inherently risky. Rigid bikes remind you the instant things get a little out of control, right at that margin where any bike is the most fun.
Efficiency, weight, stable geo, and avoiding fork rebuilds are huge bonuses for sure. Thanks for the video!
I like going reckless, i'm young and thus invincible
Fork rebuild... The chills
I agree about the limiter thing. I'm 63 and don't bounce as well as I used to. I figure that my rigid Krampus means that I'll be going a bit slower when I inevitably crash.
Agreed, its a safety feature!
@@kermitleninja7310 I'm 42 and still invincible, though I crashed on my last rigid mtb ride LOL.
I recently switched from a FS bike to rigid. All carbon 29er with 1x drive train. Light and smooth. I ride smooth fire road and single track. No jumps. No drops. It’s epic!
I started out on a rigid MTB, and I stuck with it. I started on one because I wasn't sure how I'd like mountain biking; I thought it was a good way to get my feet wet. I did some technical and trail riding years ago, but now, fire roads are about as technical as I get. These days, I mostly stick to the street, bike paths, and hardpack canal trails, so my bike is set up accordingly. A rigid is fine the riding I do, so I stuck with mine. Why get anything more if you don't need it?
If someone has budget constraints yet has the time, I’d recommend a frame up build. It will take a longer time overall but you also get more out of it: 1) you get exactly the bike build you want, 2) you end up with a working set of tools you actually need and will use, 3) you pay yourself back by learning the skills to build and maintain a bike, building your own wheel set, and from the enjoyment of learning how to ride a crazy rigid bike. I love my rigid single speed Trek Stache build, and I really like the option that I can always make it a complete bulldozer with 29x3 tires and 140mm of travel.
I highly recommend doing your own bike maintenance/builds too. It’s almost all surprisingly simple, saves money, and is actually pretty enjoyable.
Unfortunately building from the frame up can be more expensive a lot of the time because you don’t get the bulk discounts the manufacturers get on components, so unless you’re finding good deals or using used parts, it can easily pass a complete bike build in price.
@@RideYearRound True. I save money by buying Kona full bike Parts. Lot of stuff on eBay. Stems, posts, Bars. People Charge Parts of full bike builts a Lot. Remove logos with Aceton
This is the only way I get bikes. Frame or frameset only. Building up from scratch gets me working close up with it. I end up loving those builds waaaaay more than an already built and specd bike. Ive sold all new bike completes that ive bought but own all the builds.
Never thought I’d be this guy but “ When I was a lad we only had rigid bikes”..,
Ok seriously when I raced in the 80’s we only had rigid bikes, tuning the suspension meant adjusting the tire pressure. The day after a race you woke up with every single joint in your body popping and clicking. You had to pick your route stone by stone, but it was still fast and epic fun. I clocked 51mph and still had folks past me. If you’re thinking about a full rigid, do it. It’s hardcore. You’ll love it.
I remember going down the Kamikaze full tilt with my Bridgestone MB2. You aimed down the middle because your vision was so blurry. Also your teeth hurt from rattling so bad. Good times...
I tried full ridgid. I fell, no more. :)
Ah, the good old days mate. When bikes were bikes and sheep were frightened. Throwing the 29-32lb bike onto your shoulder and scrambling up the side of mountains in all weathers. Of all the 25 odd bikes I have had since 84, only about 3 had shocks and they were off quicker than you could say John Tomac ;-) Speed is relative. 35 mph down Snowdon on a rigid steel frame and fork would scare the crap out of yer ( as you know ). In 2007 I bought a GT Pantera frame second hand, bought Cro-mo forks, an old XT retro gruppo I had lying about along with the trusty 7 sp thumb shifters and I wouldn't swap it for the world. And yes, I do have bar ends :-)
Totally agree. The best part about a fully rigid bike is that it makes "boring" trails spicy and exciting again. Also it builds skill. You need to be on top of those wheel lifts now.
Only drawback really is lack of comfort. It'll beat you up so it may not be the best if you have joint pains.
Added a vintage softride suspension stem and a suspension seat post to my rigid bike and it makes a world of difference in comfort and increases my speed. Plus no bobbing out of the saddle or on climbs. Not as plush as FS, but a happy medium. 😊
The "efficiency" argument for rigid bikes really needs to fall by the wayside. If you're climbing over even remotely uneven terrain, a full-sus bike with the rear shock *open* is actually significantly more mechanically efficient. If rigid bikes were actually more efficient, they would be faster, and the quickest riders in the world would be utilizing the "simple, direct, efficient" rigid bikes to win races. As it sits, the fastest and most efficient bikes in the world are short-travel full-suspension, so I'm not buying any claim that a rigid bike is a better climber in any scenario except on pavement.
Regarding failure from impact - I would highly doubt that a suspended bike would be more likely to experience catastrophic failure from a drop test. Just think about it - the duration of impact for the suspended bike is so much longer, so the same impact gets spread out over a greater moment. Just imagine repeatedly hucking off a 3-foot tabletop to flat with a full-sus bike versus a fully rigid bike - which one would break a part first, and after how many drops? My money is on a sheared pedal spindle for the rigid bike.
And the geometry argument - sure, your geo numbers are relatively the same when your front wheel hits a rock in the trail - but then your front wheel either completely changes direction, or loses contact with the ground entirely. In both of those cases your geometry numbers cease to mean anything, because you're either suddenly changing direction against your will or you're temporarily losing contact with the earth, neither of which are favorable handling characteristics, geometry sheet be damned.
I feel like this video could be distilled into two points - Go fully rigid if you a) want to ride tame trails while keeping them engaging (with the additional bonus of not going so ludicrously fast that crashing means dying, and also learning more about line choice and bike handling), and b) if you want a simpler bike that costs less to buy/maintain. Both of those were totally valid reasons that you brought up, but they're let down by specious claims about a more "efficient" or "stronger" bike. Such points are straight out of the pursed lips of a crossed-arm back-of-the-bike-shop curmudgeon. And please don't fall into the trap of "things were simpler in the old days and they worked", because it's a slippery slope leading to a Sarlacc pit where logic goes to die.
But I get it, it's TH-cam, so the topic has to be "Why you SHOULD ride a rigid MTB" not "Pragmatic reasons for considering mellow rigid MTB enjoyment as opposed to death-defying full-suspension insanity".
NIce wording. but I would emphasize how its divisiv to claim its better and push to create a not so humble opinion but glorifying one narrative.
Alot of the bike feel is subjective but I wouldn't ride a rigid down drops and high jumps. even for daily use on gravel that less vibration from the terrain with a fork suspension keeps my hands and shoulder fresh even on long rides of gravel uphill or downhill
A very logical and well-presented point-of-view. Based on science and physics. It is amazing to me how many people actually believe that suspension or wide tires are inefficient all anything-- what glass smooth surfaces. Hysteresis losses. 👍
Don't even get me started about idiots that claim their will ride Reckless if they have a full suspension, oh my goodness!
Thanks for the comment, I like to hear feedback and other points of view on things like this. In regards to fork failure, I wasn't talking about a fork failing from impact, I was talking about the cage/bag mounting solutions available for fork lowers failing in a crash. However, I have had issues with more than one fork on the trail having some sort of failure and also blown a rear shock, so it's not an impossibility.
If you've never ridden a rigid bike with plus or fat tires, it's a very different experience than one with "normal" tires. I've rarely experienced any major deflection or loss of contact with the ground on a rigid plus bike...not to say it doesn't happen, but it's not like riding some wild bucking horse all the time. You can also ride black/double black on them too...you just have to rely on technique and line choice more than your suspension travel.
I'll also say I'm not advocating that everyone ride a rigid mountain bike all of the time for every situation. I'm pretty sure nobody thinks a single style of bike is good for all riding disciplines. If you like to do epic 50 milers on backcountry singletrack, but also hit the lift access bike park sometimes...there's a really good chance you'll have two bikes that look pretty different from each other. If I wanted to go ride Big Sky or Whitefish all the time, I'd have a mid/long travel full suspension for it.
@@RideYearRound Totally agree, horses for courses. I owned a first-generation Krampus for a few years when I lived in Santa Cruz, and it was an absolute blast to ride around the forests there. I focused less on "sending it" and used it more as a vehicle for meditating on a bike in a forest. The "grown-up BMX" vibes were real with that bike, and absolutely nothing I've owned since picks up and holds momentum like a 29+ bike. But, as I said before, it was my experience that as the trails turned to black diamonds, and the rock gardens grew to watermelon-sized rocks and beyond, a full-suspension bike was undeniably better-suited.
Now that I live in the PNW and ride mostly "natural" trails, I couldn't possibly imagine riding a Krampus, as fond as my memories for that bike are. You're typically seeing 2000 ft of elevation for every 10 miles (sometimes even more), and that comes in lurches and lumps of 20-25% gradients, with tight switchbacks thrown in. Roots abound, and I care not for picking up tremendous momentum when I'm picking my way along a narrow bench-cut with a sheer drop off down the leeward side. I brought an XC hardtail to this new environment, and I'm currently in the process of putting a rigid fork on it - but I'm doing this to ride the chunkier "gravel" rides, not to entertain anything that qualifies as "mountain biking" around these parts.
And the part about sus-fork bikepacking is duly noted - although it only really applies to steel pack-mount forks, because taking a serious digger on a carbon rigid fork would likely bugger the pack mounts if it was serious enough to mess up a suspension fork. And yes, having more moving parts means maintaining and being mindful of them. Shocks require that you be mindful of them overheating on prolonged descents, minding the air pressure, cleaning the stanchions, checking and servicing the seals, servicing the fluid, yada yada. But again, horses for courses; if I was riding the Great Divide, by all means I would ride a rigid MTB, but if I was riding the Colorado Trail or the AZT, I would happily put up with the pragmatic shortcomings of bikepacking with a suspension fork.
I think the most compelling argument for rigid bikes comes in the form of a question - what is mountain biking to you? I think far too often people get put on a conveyor belt of constantly ratcheting the gnar-bar higher and higher, but your channel (and a few others) is a great reminder that off-road riding is about more than hucking giant gaps so that you have something to talk about at work the next day (or, heaven forbid, so you have something cool to post on the 'gram). A rigid bike is a great way to pull back from the cliffs of insanity, the dreams of Red-Bull Rampaging every time you get on a bike, and instead suggests plugging into something both more mellow and immersive.
Rigid singlespeed! With 8 inch cable discs and a dropper post. Mullet 2.8 tires. I might be a special kind of bike nerd.
I have ridden some light-to-medium trails fully rigid and it is actually a great time. Put the psi a little lower and really get involved on the bike .You won't be doing much sitting, but you will be doing a lot of smiling!
I have both a rigid fork bike and front suspension bike, both middle upper quality, and hands down the front suspension bike makes the ride on rough terrain more comfortable and enjoyable. Hands down.
Nice to have choice.
You just got yourself an 80's mountainbiker subscriber. Great video mate.
Been having a fun time testing the limits of my rigid gravel bike on single track lately. Throwing a dropper on made a world of difference. I have ridden hard tails without a dropper before, but with drop bars I find a rigid post just wants to throw you over the front end too much. With the seat dropped i can actually stay level and use my arms and legs as suspension instead of having my body pitched forwards. 40c tires are still pretty small, but they have been surprisingly capable on green- blue level single track, and they still roll super well on the road as well. Can't say I am ready to give up my full sus yet, but I can imagine throwing a rigid mtb in my stable in the future.
I have to partly disagree in terms of efficiency. Especially on demanding and rough climbs, a clever build full sus with platform damping is far superior to a rigid bike because the rear wheel will not bounce arround as much. Hence it will be more efficient due to the the fact that you can put down the power more continuously. Maybe very skilled riders can accommodate for the lack of traction with riding technique but in general i guess the modern short to midtravel full sus will have the edge in this situation. But apart from that I totally agree with most of your points. Simple rigid bikes are just massive fun
I think you are confusing effectiveness with efficiency. Due to its nature, damping will always consume energy and not return most of it, in a full suspension you're trading that loss in efficiency in favor to gain traction and saving on fatigue through vibration that reaches your body, at the expense of pedalling efficiency. I can tell easily tell the difference between my Santa Cruz Blur (One of the most efficient dual sus bikes out there) against my Specialized AWOL running 29x2.2 tires (Not even a frame made for racing, but for adventure/touring). Unless things are very rough that I cannot put the power down the pedals, usually the AWOL will fatigue me less during long climbs with some roots and rocks and when it comes to fire roads/hardpack or even worse asphalt, difference is a a lot. Don't have numbers since none of them have a power meter, but I'm willing to say in smooth roads I have to put out 10% less effort with the fully rigid. The blur shines when there are technical climbs, where even more powerful riders than me struggle due to lack of traction and I can more effectively put power down the road, but that's it for the full squish.
that only applies for technical ascents but yeah I agree, same reason you want low tire pressure
The only way my bike could be simpler is with a rigid seatpost instead of a dropper. Rigid single speed is where it's at.
I rode a rigid Niner ss for yrs & loved it & regret selling it. At 59 I’m actually thinking about building up another one
Everyone should have a rigid single speed
@@EstebanRapido yee sure everyone has the money for 2 or more bikes...
I just built up a kona unit rigid ss and it's way too fun esp in winter months
@@almabatekert_villanykorte3387 In life, having more money will always help you save money. Having an extra bike will always help you maintain your other bike. You won't be in a hurry for replacement parts just so you can ride. You will be able to wear out your cheap bike rather than your nice one. Also, a very basic bike, like a rigid single speed, will require less maintenance. How much is a cassette these days? $300? I've replaced the "cassette" on my single speed for as cheap as $18. And that included the freewheel! With simple bike, you can pack on the miles and not worry about spending big dollars to do so.
“Now that I’ve convinced you….” Hardly. My MTB riding began in 1988 so I’m very experienced with fully rigid trail riding. In 1994 I got my first suspension fork. One thing I noticed immediately was the severe osteoarthritis I was developing in both thumb MCP joints (knuckles) immediately started getting better. If front suspension had never been invented I probably would have eventually had to give up the sport. Rigid is fine on smooth, gravel bike worthy trails like you are showing in your video but a real trail will beat the hell out of your body on a fully rigid bike.
Exactly. People now have bought into the rigid gravel bike idea and use the gravel bike for everything.....at a certain speed the bike is no longer touching the ground, hitting the brakes means nothing. Tires are barely touching the ground..............the next trick is hands popping off the bars and rider launching over the bars and bike running over rider,.................this video is a joke pretty much..............I rode old rigid mt bikes and the abuse is extreme.
Fully Rigid and SS is the way to go..
I have never owned suspension or hardtail, but I have two 29+ rigids and love them! One is a 30lb steel frame and the other is a 20lb titanium frame with carbon fiber fork and wheels. Each has their own advantages, but both are a blast to ride!
Totally agree on the fun factor. When it comes to performance, theres hardly any convincing argument outside of bikepacking and Cycling. If you dont want to send jumps or gnarly downhills, this probably is a possibility to Spice it Up. Simplicity is great because you dont have to maintain a lot, therefore youre able to ride more careless and just for the sake of Riding. I think some are misunderstanding your idea: Rigidity isnt Superior in Performance, but in maintenance, simplicity and parts longevity. If thats what youre looking at, Go for it. This will be enough to fulfill most Bikers. Many are also often overbiking but Missing Out on the fun of simplicity
I think a lot of people are over-biked (whether they realize it or not) and would really benefit from riding a bike that allows their skills to be challenged a little more. Do I think this should be done all the time/on every trail? Definitely not...they make bikes with different travel, geo, etc. for a reason, but man it's fun to ride a rigid bike.
I agree, a full rigid 29+ would be ideal, but you only find them in a niche category (adventure and bike packing), and even fewer offerings that comes complete with 29x3.
Finally settled on a Jones LWB, handles beautifully and more comfortable than any the FS bikes I'd ever ridden before.
If only there were more 29+ for FS geeks to try out there, we'd have more converts.
I’ve bought a Jones LWB last year, importing it into the UK. An incredible machine.
Another Jones LWB owner here. The most capable and comfortable bike I've ever owned.
Steel SWB Space Frame with truss fork, here. Head over heels in love with this thing.
One if the biggest ironies of full suspension is that it’s a lot more forgiving for novice riders, but you sort of need to know how to wrench to own a full suspension bike. Shock set up alone is beyond a lot of people’s technical abilities. Also, rough terrain requires a lot more repair during down time.
I have a rigid old 3-speed 26" bike. It just feels like biking. I've ridden it since 2011, since I was a kid. I'm connected to it on a spiritual plane. :P
Yeah...I started my first Kona mountain bike with rigid fork/ 7er speed, later GT many years ago. Perfect to control, punchy and great for decent climbing!! Greetings from XC rider Kuala Lumpur.
I agree with all of this I've had more fun on the trail with a single speed full rigid than a full suspension cause it puts you more in tune with the trail way more nimble on switchbacks,jumps,and negating rocks and gnar sections gives you better balance and control.Just simply way more old school fun.
I will take my Stumpy FSR 29er in the "gnar" any day of the week. You are out of your mind if you think a rigid is better on jumps or "negating rocks." What all of this rationalization means is that you will ride slower and not attempt trail features. When I see guys on rigid bikes, even on blue trails, it is when I alert them I need to pass. I rode a rigid Trek 830 back in '93 on hiking trails. There were no mtb trails where I live back then. It sucked. Bought a Cannondale F500 w a 80mm Headshock and never went rigid again for trail riding, except my fatbike, but 4.25 tires provide plenty of give.
I just did this with my Salsa Timberjack. I put the Whisky carbon fork on it and it is awesome!
Did you end up going with the LT version or the standard?
@@RideYearRoundLT version
i ride a fully rigid 27.5 mtb. i ride w/ groups where every other rider has either a suspension fork or full suspension.
the only place i feel i’m lacking is on steep rocky descents.
however… there are many descents that i can do that guys on full suspension bail out on…
bottom line is rigid bikes are FUN.
I just did a parts bin rigid 29er build. So much fun. Great for chunky gravel rides.
Great vid and glad you’re loving your ride. But this guy whose first mtb was a fully rigid 1990 is never going back. My full squish allows me to do sh*t as an old banged up guy I never would have imagined. Course dropper seat posts and modern geo help a lot too, but my joints really appreciate the sus. I do think though that everyone should start on fully rigid or at least a HT. Teaches you how to ride properly and learn about what trail features will do to you so you can better pick a line or be better prepared for the effects of a feature. 🤙
Great vid. All the reasons I like grav grav bikes too :)
I put an ENVE fork on my Chumba Stella with a 29x3.0 tire last August…I have not been been at all tempted to go back to a suspension fork yet. It’s such a great ride with the ENVE fork. So yeah rigid is totally fun and a great skill builder for riding better lines vs. inefficiently plowing through (which can be just as rough feeling)
I've heard good things about the Enve fork and I really like the look of it.
what tire you used sir
@@glenpiolofficial5825 I mainly use a Bontrager XR2 29x3.0 (it’s light and fast). I also use a Bontrager XR4 29x3.0 (it has way more cornering traction)
Grew up on BMX in the 90s and early 2000s, and then skipped about 20 years. I was always a skater and snowboarder first. Been back in it for a couple years with the latest stumpy iteration that I love on our Alaskan trails, but could never shake the thought that a modern trail hardtail, or even BMX to underbike my common trails, would be super fun. Recently picked up a new karate monkey, and it's truly the big-kid MTB-BMX-monster truck fantasy I was looking for. The excitement and simple funky feeling it delivers is what I didn't even know I'd missed for so long. AND it's purple! And it's mechanical! And I can make it whatever I want!
I love embracing the concept that fun most often doesn't come in a linear form. "More" isn't just better. Sometimes the reason you're having fun comes from simplicity, and having "less." But is it really "less?" Feels like "more" to me.
I'm sure plenty of folks know this book, but I grew up with a Mickey Mouse story in which he starts with a small boat to head out on the water with Pluto. He then wants to take a friend, and then a few more friends, and a few more, and eventually ends up with a large vessel that he doesn't use as often, and it becomes a stress. He circles back to his tiny boat, and finds himself loving it again. That concept carries over into many things in life, and that's how I feel about simple, reliable bikes like these. I think it's a beautiful thing to have variety, but don't overlook the roots. It's not uncommon that advanced technology ends up muting the experience itself (even though it can open up so many new experiences)
Rigid mountain biking is bringing back good old days of mountain biking when there even wasn't so much trail riding like nowadays, because it was such pain to drive offroad, driving with full suspension e-bike is so much easier, it is like driving with motorcycle and you will go much faster. One good thing about rigid mountain bike is that it will keep trails more calm and peaceful when you can't ride so fast.
Riding a ridged frame here at a place on the west coast that sees mountain bikes of all kinds most every day. A mountain-bike from 1989 and out of my three bikes,...it's become my favorite. Had it for decades and ridden the heck out of it. I'm the only one riding a ridged out here except for the gravel bikes but I go where they don't. A rigid mountain bike is maybe the best of both worlds. Mine still has the 3x5 shimano gear-set, stock wheel size and canti brakes. Two/three finger pull and the wheels lock up. No need for disks. No need for a lot of service. It just works month after month with little maintenance needed. It's no slouch on flat pavement/gravel yet climbs steep grades and single track like crazy - up to the point the tires loose traction. Extreme downhill or massive jumps? Nope! No comparison to a suspension bike. Not my thing anyway. Too old for that. But everything else is everything stated here. Getting a suspension seat post and different bars helps smooth things. Cheers.
I recently rebuilt a mystery MTB from the early 80's (?). It is all rigid. I turned it into a 1X7, urban 26" tires. It is the most fun of any bike I have ever built or rode.
It also lessens the weight the front suspension let alone rear suspension also adds. It becomes pretty bomb proof, and it looks less out of place in public as an all around bike.
If you have to pick up your bike going up, or down steps etc every extra pound is noticeable especially if can cut it down by 10+ extra pounds.
We used to jump our bmx bikes down 6-7 stairs to flat, on cement. 60 psi in the tires…sounds awful these days but, it’s fun to feel the ground on a steel bike in particular.
Now try it single speed. I have a 2009 kona unit, that thing is the most fun of all my bikes.
One thing that you should have highlighted more is how it can increase your skills. It come out of necessity since rigid forks are unforgiving if you make a mistake on the trail.
Good video btw.
I rode a rigid Spec Fatboy Carbon for 5 years after 20 years on a full suspension. I have to say it made me a better rider. Last year I bought a new Spec Enduro and I'm back on full sus, but now with sharper skills thanks to the rigid bike. I still ride the fatboy on easy xc trails just for fun!
My only rigid bike is my Fatbike, and the tires are the suspension. It is as low tech as you can get w/o going singlespeed. I ride it in all kinds of gunk in the winter including road salt. Everything gets contaminated. It has mech brakes and so I can make easy fixes and adjustments. Going tubeless and carbon bars really changed the performance of the bike. Otherwise, I'm riding w suspension. Gotta use the right tool for the job.
I like this, being thinking about it. Bikes are getting too complicated, they even have electronic shifters now, that's why we have cars and look how they are doing reliability wise, I'm upgrading my fork to this...or downgrading it.
Fully rigid is fun as even riding slow feels like going lightning fast, bumping all over the place. Great fun.
Have a 30 yr old Schwinn Woodlands FULLY ridged. I am the one and only owner. Had it out on the trails today for about and hour and a half. Very true analysis. More torque, responsive steering, cost effective.
Have to look sharp for obstacles and maneuver appropriately or it can buck you off like a wild horse. 😣
Completely agree , you need a `loose relaxed `hand on downhill bumps but there soooo much lighter and more fun ..and way cheeper to maintain . swapped my trek one out to a rigid when the forks were no longer rescuable, way better all round . Also with new forks i was able to adjust the handle bar height to perfection .
I've been riding a Jones LWB for the past couple of years on all the trails I can. Absolutely love the feel of a well thought out rigid. Pity that they have gotten so pricey, though.
I sold my FS & went back to a 26er chromoly rigid bike with a rigid steel fork, the ride feels like a extension of my body💝💯💕😇👋🕊️🍺🐢🙏
I pulled the gears off my old steel frame mtb bike, then I put a rigid Carbon fork in it. Very fun machine to ride.
My first mtb was a 1991 fully rigid 26" and it got me hooked on mtn biking. Not too keen on going back to the beginning where i started, but I did go back to a hardtail, all be it a plus hardtail. I am thinking of taking my 1998 Barracuda XC URT frame and building it up with a rigid fork. Sort of a soft tail gravel bike w/ 26" wheels
Sounds like a fun project!
I have both a Breezer Tornado and a Klein Karma frame hanging in the the garage and considering building one of them up into a hardnose
I have a NOS set of Shimano XT Dual control shifter/brakes that might work in this application as STI would
@@Bob-hq5lj I am going to strip my wife's 1995 Marin Muir Woods of its parts; wheels, shifters, cranks, derailleur, and brakes. The frame is way too small for me which is why I am not using her old bike as a gravel bike.
just in time! i'm going to convert my fatbike to a rigid 29 for a summer riding. rigid is my way to go, as i service my bikes completely by myself and suspension is one problematic thing to operate on.
I used to ride my SS full rigid. Then I got into more long distance runs and realized just how much more energy you expend on a full rigid. Got a Judy with only 100mm travel and I can now do more distance with less fatigue and less upper body stress. I still miss the feedback and weight of the full rigid. I remember the first time on a techy rock section with the Judy I actually wrecked and rolled down a drainage path. The reason was I was so used to the momentum of the rigid allowing me to pop the front wheel over rocks and roots. The suspension ate up that momentum and I stalled out at the worst possible time. Lesson learned, and I adjusted my style. But I still miss the directness.
Early Mountain bikes look cooler as well.. Biggest advantage of full rigid is if you are riding non technical gravel type stuff and lots of road sections.. If you set it up close to your road position on a old school frame it gives great performance !
I ride a late 80s rigid mountain bike with 3x8 drivetrain, cantilever brakes, 26" wheels. I get a lot of looks on the local single tracks, but most of the trails really don't need suspension. I do envy the dropper posts on modern mountain bikes though.
I ride rigid, Surly ICT (26" & 29" tyres) I do everything... DH, Trail, Pumoptrack, bikepacking, gravel, you name it.
Yes man you are totally right. Most people have forgotten how awesome riding without a suspension fork is.
Just get a gravel bike and be done with it. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Love it! A rigid Mtb is honestly a blast. I can also say you will feel worked over after a ride but you also build up your base skills
I've finally gotten to being in agreement with this after a few months of being on a rigid bike but man... your body does take quite the beating.
I like suspension a lot. Front and rear,much like cars and motorcycles suspension works great on bicycles.....by all means knock yourself out though. Impact can be very meaningful.
I remembered back when I got my 1st mountain bike in the early 2000. Back then, the sport was relatively new, the fun in mountain biking was all about the challenge and overcoming obstacles, and don't forget, we only had 26'ers, skinny 1.somethin tires, and V-brakes, and you got to be one of those super fit skinny roadie type to be able to race and endure the harsh terrains on that vintage full rigid. So yea, how could the introduction of front shocks and eventually rear shocks not make mountainbiking more fun back then.
If it weren't for the introduction of 29'ers and FAT tires, I don't know that I would ever have gone back to the simplicity of full rigid.
29+ should be perfect, handles well, rolls smooth, dampens the bumps adequately.
26x4 plus was bit of a challenge, too much pull on turns.
Mtb wasn't new in 2000, I got my first mtb in 1989 and suspension forks weren't even invented back then, never mind full-sus.
@@timb171 Amen bro, I had the first specialized future shock. 1" of travel.
@@timb171 Yeah, the sport was "relatively new" in around 1990. Not the year 2000
For bike packing a ridged “non suspension corrected” frameset gives you a larger front triangle for a larger frame bag for more storage, lower.
i agree 100% add in a single speed drivetrain and im all set
My favorite bike is my Cogburn CB4 fully rigid fatbike. With 26"×4" tires, it rides like a 29" with superb traction. I never think about the "lack" of suspension. It doesnt need it. The tires absorb the shock. Better yet i can adjust the squish with air pressure and never have the e,tra weight of suspension forks.
Im VERY interested in getting a Surly now for bike camping.
To each their own. I'm over 50, bolted together, creaky and broken down. Suspension can take up that slack for me on trails. Growing up un rigid bikes was great for skills tho--when I got my first bikes with suspension, I still steered around things on the trail. Took a while to learn I could just go the straightest line and it did not matter.
Bravo!!! I’ve said the same for years but haven’t been able to make a video as good. Rigid. Makes you choose your line and body position. It is right in line with skills with Phil short travel philosophy. Take it another level with a single speed. My recommendation for a rigid 29er fork. Carver XC 490.
I like a full rigid MTB.... mostly because I suck at mountain biking and tend to ride slow enough to avoid the trees which have a habit of jumping out in front of me....😁👍...and because old MTBs look way better than new ones ...
Fully rigid is lighter, and makes climbing easier. With more of the weight in the back going downhill requires less drop to the back as well. I tested monster climb of about 20-25° for 1000ft between two bikes one being a 26" fully rigid and a 29" front suspension. The 29 is about 6 pounds heavier being the bigger bike however being 6ft tall I need a bigger frame than a 26. Still I am 30 seconds faster on the fully rigid because it locks out and and can put all the force in the climb. Most of my riding is road riding and I do simple trail riding for fun. A gravel cross bike is more my preferred bike.
I have 20+ bikes. My everyday/fav is a trek 3700 frame with all hollowtech/deore xt and rigid fork.
Does everything well but nothing great. Never breaks. Lite as a feather!
I ride a 26 size S bike, with a 100 mm suntour fork, that has actually become fully rigid because the previous owner thrashed it. The problem with riding rigid bikes is that they'll beat you up on rough downhill runs. I can't afford a new bike, so i always come home with my ankles and wrists hurting.
I ride full rigid and single gear, it’s a lot of fun!
I have fond memories of my old rigid mtb back when, however, NO WAY I'D GO BACK
There's a fair chance that I'll be swooping out the suspension fork on my old MTB this summer. Planning to take it down to South Africa where it'll do as a holiday gravel bike when I'm there and a utility bike when I'm not.
When you're still young or those older ones but with really strong bone structure, yes to a full rigid bicycle.
But for most older people who go cycling on weekends/or on their free time do have very tiring and back breaking jobs, at least a bicycle with a front fork is the best option.
I haven't ridden a modern, rigid mtb, but I did used to ride my dad's old hybrid with 40mm tires. It was a blast on easy trails, except when I had to change tubes mid-ride every couple of weeks.
I've taken my gravel/cx bike on some trails with 40mm tires. So terrifying, but so fun.
Plus: a rigid fork is way lighter than a suspension fork, added with no bouncing or energy losses, at climbing is super effective.
It’s also what your body is actually capable of. Adding suspension means you couldn’t really handle it physically.
Go singlespeed, practically no maintenance.
Interesting... Been riding 40+ years and never owned a suspension bike...
Been saying this for years! Carbon 29er forks are amazing these days.
Totally agree, always seem to have my forks on lockout anyway
Yeah then you might as well change out the fork for a Ridgid work since you're not using it doesn't make any sense but if you feel better then I guess that's what matters right? Feelings...
🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮
I rented a Surly rigid recently while on holiday, a sort of adventure bike with 3-4 inch tyres. It was huge fun on gravel forest roads but really awful on rooty single track. It was really hard to control the steering in the bumps without it being deflected. Won’t be doing that again in a hurry!
Tire pressure is critical on a rigid bike and in the plus/fat tire world. Not saying that’s the problem here, because rooty singletrack is tough on a rigid, but it sounds like the pressure was way too high which wouldn’t help.
I've had the fully rigid Breezer Thunder bike for a few days and it's been fun. Comes with 29" tires and a decent price.
In my opinion I feel like fully rigid bikes can give you more control over the bike and where you go as you wouldn't 'feel' the ground as much if you had suspension sinking into the bumps.
I grew up mountain biking when i was young. Over a decade later i tried a suspension bike and i honestly hated it. I don’t like how its bouncing around and moves when riding, especially when i first got on the bike and it sunk down. I prefer the old no suspension, but i do like the new disc brakes.
I ride a rigid fat bike all year round i love it
much like other commenters. I have ridden a fully ridgid bike. And if you only have low skill required, relatively flat green and blue trails where you live go for it. But for anywhere with technical features, or fast rough trails. A suspension fork will always work better. if 1000m of decent is tiring on a full suspension, there is no way that I would do it on a rigid bike.
Think of it as a monster road/gravel bike.
Don't have to think of it that's what it is
I built up my old 07 Marin Rocky Ridge with rigid forks just because I felt so 'over biked' on my local trails with my full sus trail bike. It isnt quick but its great fun and makes the ride a lot more interesting. I'm unlikely to take it for a day's riding at the Forest of Dean though.
I tried suspension but kept going back rigid on my fat bike. The tires give enough suspension.
No way! Suspension takes a little training and saves massive wear & tear on energy & focus.
Yep, agree with all of this. I ride fully rigid plus all the time, super fun. I especially like the efficiency when going from a down to an up, stand out of the saddle and the bike just springs forward. Thanks for the video!
And here I am going the other direction. I've always been happy with hard tails as a commuter-first, fun-on-the-trail-second kinda guy. But after messing up my back pretty good on some nasty asphalt I took at speed, I think I'm going to save myself actual spinal injury one day go either suspension seat or full squish. rigid bikes do have pretty consistent control, though.
A suspension seat helps a little. Been running one for 6 years, still wish for full squish sometimes. A rough ride can still leave me feeling rattled (also have back issues).
I started 30 yrs ago on fully rigid. Cant think of one reason to go back. Unless I want to go alot slower.☺
I think it's horses for courses. The type of riding conditions shown are relatively mellow compared to our local trails and suit the rigid bikes. However at the age of 65 comfort is number one in my book and tbh have only had one suspension related mechanical in any of my bikes over the years and still got home. Some of the suspension set ups are relatively bob free like my SC Bronson. Roll on suspension......
Yeah this is the reason why i wanna build a rigid bike!
This is absolute madness!
Rigid fatbike for the win! 😊
Right on time advise as my hard tail cannondale has a damaged front suspension, a lefty, that I’m not able to find someone to fix or a new one to replace for a year now! I’ll see if the mechanic can make that for rigid and give it a try.
I’ve started a “grountain bike” conversion on my Framed Marquette. Just ordered 45mm tires and a small clamp-on aero bar. Bike has a Fox 32SC 100mm I have been looking at replacing with a Whisky carbon fork for this build.
Just bought a Surly Ghost Grappler and it's at the shop getting the drop bars swapped for moloko. I already felt that fun factor (like when you're a kid) with the drop bars but the alt bar is going to be amazing. I haven't touched the FS bike in a while.
I ride 180mm/180mm every where, local trails, bike parks and big day outs.. but its emtb :D Nicolai
Great video content, as always! Looking forward to the new bike build.
Thanks for the kind words. I’m excited for the new one too…but I’m mostly tired of waiting for parts haha.