Don't buy a new DCC System until you've watched this! | Hornby, Bachmann, Lenz and NCE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2024
- What DCC system should you choose? I give a run down of many of the entry level set-ups available, all from personal experience. Save time and money by learning from my mistakes!
There are many different makes and models of DCC System available, and I seem to have used most of them over the years, so make use of my experience to make the right choice of DCC System to start with!
I cover DCC Systems from Lenz, Bachman, Hornby and NCE and give you the low down on each.
Links to buy:
Hornby Select: amzn.to/3gxDsrd
Bachmann EZ Command: amzn.to/3VNwGOq
Bachmann Dynamis: amzn.to/3z56PHQ
Perfect timing for me! Just getting back into the hobby and I'm enjoying your content.
Awesome! Thank you! I guess I'm in the same position, but just a little further along. After many false starts over the years, I started back in earnest a couple of years ago, and I'm using my channel to share my experiences! I look forward to seeing how you get on.
Thank you for the kind words! It’s been almost 15 years since I dropped the hobby and now I have time and room O need a release so I thought, why not! I will try to release videos or clips as and when there are updates :)
I've decided not to use Dc or Dcc, but instead to pull the trains along with clear filament and make train noises verbally. My wife thinks it's silly until I told her how much money I'm saving
toot toot
This is the exact reason why I got rid of the wife!
Honestly you wouldn't believe how much I've saved
Lmao!
lol
@stephenblacker1208 but who's going to remind you how much kitchen roll costs, and how many sheets is too many?
2 months ago I got a DCC layout and it came with the NCE power cab and for me it’s really simple to use
Thanks for the feedback!
Very informative video especially if your starting out with DCC. My foray into DCC was with Hornby's Select controller which at the time I did find it as a good starting place, however, it's limited performance, cumbersome size did not realize the full potential of my DCC sound fitted HO locos so I moved onto Gaugemaster,s Prodigy Advance. Its outstanding performance both at home and exhibitions was a sound investment into the world of DCC working well with both HO and N gauge.
I've tried the Gaugemaster progidy, and it was fine, but I felt the NCE PowerCab fitted easier into my hand.
A very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload it. Stay safe mate
Thanks, you too!
I ended up getting a Sig-naTrak ace 2 and have been very happy with it so far, I like the colour touchscreen screen that shows more information than most controllers. Also have 2 hand controllers for it.
They've always intrigued me. I'm not sure about touchscreens though it's a personal preference.
thank you its helped a lot trying to find the right one for me as I don't understand how to get one and wire it in to my lay out so this has helped me a lot now its how to wire it in
Glad to have helped!
This video is just the thing for me, as I'm looking at starting back.
Thanks Jake Richards for the feedback, much appreciated!
Another vote here for the NCE powercab. I have had one for several years now and it has been great. I also prefer the tactile feel of knobs, levers, and pushbuttons over a computer interface like JMRI. Now that being said there are a bunch of other cool systems. ESU Cab Control, Digitraxx DCS52, And the crafty amoung you can build an Arduino controlled DCC++EX setup. I put one of those together and it has been a lot of fun to experiment with.
Quite agree - I always recommend people have a test with a system before they buy - either at a friends layout, a model railway show, or in the store.
@@MessingaboutwithModels I had to rely on online videos to try to make an informed decision. Shows only come around twice a year, if that often, in my area. And my local friends into trains were/are DC people.
I've used a few dcc systems over the years, but i'm most impressed with The roco multimaus z21 profi . It is expensive tho but really worth the price
At one time I really wanted a MultiMaus. They looked really good - and the ergonomics looked as if they would be good too. I very nearly got one when the Roco HOe sets were going cheap on ebay.
However, it wasnt to be, and now the price has gone up quite considerably.
I'm looking at getting into the hobby and DCC it what I want with all the sounds and extra features. Although I'll probably be using Hornby's new HM7000 system on my phone, I'll be getting an Elite controller as my grandchildren will be playing with it too. With two simple knobs to control speed etc we can both control a train each at the same time.
Currently putting together a layout. And the conclusion I’d already come to is ultimately I’m going to go for one of the NCE powerCab controllers or one of the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express controllers in the long run. Thing is, currently my budget for a DCC controller is perhaps limited. Therefore chances are my first one will no doubt be one of the rather less than perfect examples you’ve listed in your story, whilst I put everything together.
6:29 "But the total cost is, brand new, is now 300 pounds!" *blood curdling scream*
Thats why I dont recommend the Dynamis.
A great summary of the options, as I’m looking for a new one, having used a Hornby Select so far. I’d looked at the NCE, but wasn’t sure about the looks of it, compared to things like the Gaugemaster ones. Definitely food for thought! Thanks!
Thanks Ed. The thing I really like about the NCE is that you can use it one handed. When I've looked at the Gaugemaster Prodigy, it really needed both hands. Found that useful so I had a hand free to throw points, uncouple, etc.
@@MessingaboutwithModels Agreed about dual hands use of a Prodigy compared to a NCE. Honestly, right now, I would rather not do what I have done in 2007 when I bought my Prodigy, and straight buy a NCE. Anyway, if you have a test track apart for testing/programming DCC engines, a Prodigy can be usefull. Anyway, for a small layout with a full throttle use, an NCE is better in my opinion, the one-hand use wins all.
Thanks, what are your thoughts on the Guagemaster Prodigy system?
Its not bad, in terms of features, but I didnt like the ergonomics, it felt like you really needed two hands to hold it and use it. Whereas with the NCE PowerCab you could use the buttons with the same hand that is holding it.
For my main HO layout, I use MRC Elite Wireless.
I also have Lionel O trains that I sometimes set up on the floor through my house (yes, I'm a kid at heart, lol), and I use Lionel TMCC (Lionel uses their own proprietary control system that's not DCC compatible).
I think one drawback with the basic NCE PowerCab is the lack of a wireless option (at least here in the UK). Not a problem with the smaller layouts I tend to build.
@@MessingaboutwithModels I agree. My first foray into DCC was with a NCE Power Cab 'cuz that's what my hobby shop recommended for "DCC n00bs," but I was disappointed with its limitations. So I found someone on eBay selling "new old stock" of the MRC Elite system. I love the system! If it ever fails or "wears out" I'll prolly switch to the ESU system
Hi with regard to you NCE DCC can controller am I correct in thinking this came with an American voltage power supply, or is it a multi voltage power supply. Thanks
Can’t thank you enough sir, I’ve been dabbling with dcc casually for years on and off. I had that early lenz, compact, but it was awful, I packed up and sold my Bachman diesels as I was so underwhelmed. I regretted that immediately…………Years later bought a Hornby set because of the e-link and railmaster It had some crappy locos and a few wagons. This was so full of bugs and connected to the pc only 20% of the time, loco detection was also never forthcoming from hornby despite the promises.
I’ve since bought a few Bachman rats with sound and this afternoon decided to look for a controller as I’ve given up on railmaster years ago.
Long story short, just bought an NCE power cab after watching this vid. Found a local guy selling one, 5 weeks old, made offer and collected within 3 hours of seeing your vid.
Cheers
Wow, thanks for that! I'm glad my video was able to help someone.
will a digital n gauge locomotive run on standard track with a non digital controller ?
Hi Matt, all these controllers will work fine with N Gauge, even though some are designed specifically for OO (eg the Hornby ones). The DCC standardises the voltage.
Will the Bachman dcc controller work with a dcc atlas engine?
It should do, as long as the address is set to 1 - 9. Any higher number and it wont work.
@@MessingaboutwithModels 1-8 address 9 is for point, turnout changing
Great and informative video I've also had time out and just getting started again after around 10 years , the locos you bought then a typical Bachmann 66 would cost around £59 from hattons . I'm currently using the dynamiss which I perchesed when first introduced was around £55 but I'll probably try that NCI it seems a lot more reliable and better quality . I just need to buy a couple of decoders then make do with what I have as I've noticed it's becoming a expensive hobby 😅
Those were the days! I sometimes regret not "stocking up" back then
I see Digitrax got skipped.
Is it that bad in your opinion?
Or have you just not tried it out?
I havnt owned a Digitrax unit long term, this is really based on my personal use of a number of popular systems. If Digitrax would like me to do a review, they can always send me a unit!
Just looking around net for solutions: my dynamis has suddenly stopped working ,basestation wont recognize the handset and switch on the power.. ive tried new handset, even borrowed another bastation. Now heres the thing- i tested it elsewhere in model shop and another household and it switches on.. Why does it not work in my household.? Nothing has changed.. ever come across this? Im absolutely flabahgasted..
I have the Sprog3 and was using it with JMRI and WiThrottle on iPad/iPhone. There is a big limitation with the Sprog, you can only use one throttle open at a time. This is really annoying. I’ve now discovered DCC++EX. This is a self build DCC controller that is built around a few cheap components that are readily available online. It can be used with JMRI but it’s possible to build a version that only needs WiThrottle (if you want multiple throttles you’ll need the full version of the app). Building the controller took me less than an hour and it’s possible to get the bits for less than 50 quid.
I've heard a lot about DCC++ sounds really interesting.
Nice to see a review of the lower end dcc controllers. I use the hornby select with the latest firmware. As a budget/starter option I think it's good, the way it writes cvs is a bit long winded but it works.
Thanks Matthew. The latest firmware makes the Select much more reasonable, but I just dont think the price justifies it, when for a little bit more you can have a much better system.
Agreed, I got a deal on mine (£100 a year ago) so I thought it was worth it. But as you say it does fell a bit cheap. I plan to upgrade in a year or so.
I tried the dynamis once, and it didn't connect at all. The lighting caused a real issue as I was in a garage. Had to refund!
What controller do you recommend for an LGB engine with a digital decoder?
I'm afraid I dont have any experience with G Gauge stuff, I think it would depend on the current draw of the locos. Most of these controllers can output 1.5-2A out of the box, and thats enough for 3 or 4 locos, even in O.
6:33 I made the same sound at the same time, when you said it was 300 pound
Quite!
Great detailed video, keep it up
Appreciate it!
What about the digitrax zephyr extra? Plus dt 500. A great system Beware of the momentum button on the nce as this changes cv3 and cv 4. Not good for tailor made sound decoder to suit specific loco as once changed you can not change back. Some users in USA stick plastic under the button in case of accidentally press on the button
Not tried those - though if they are reading this, I am happy to review a set if they want to send one to me!
Owned a few over the time, 1st one hornby select didnt like the buttons and limited features. 2nd Bachmann Dynamis was ok but wifi feature irritated me so that also went. 3rd one Nce powercab rather like the feel of this one and kept it for programing track a bit lack in power around 1.2 amps with uk supplied power adaptor.
4th one Digitrax DCS52 my main controller as has all the features i like and not too dear and has 3 amps of power will be adding the latest throttle to it in near future like UT6 Utility Throttle for second user.
Also have had a few dc controllers in past were most awful from the big two brand companys,best one so far for dc is my Gaugemaster one.
As I say in the video, the best way is to get a chance to try out different controllers.
Do they work on Thomas and friends engines?
=/
Hi. Nice wee video. Interesting to hear from someone who's tried a few . Did you find an improvement in running with the NCE powercab ? I recently went from a Hornby select ( came in set i got for free) to the power cab and the running with the same locos on the same track is much much better. Anyone thats interested MERG also do dcc control
I do think it is a bit smoother than the performance you get from the Select, but having said that, I was using one with an older firmware edition, so the latest ones maybe better.
I've long wanted to dabble with MERG, but dont have the time at the moment.
ever used z21?
No, its not one I've used - I'd like to try it out, I'm always keen to see if theres something better than what I've got. You listening Roco?
Guys, I'm a new to all of this, trying to commit to my first DCC controller. -Do these need an accompanying power pack? Example, the handheld Powerpak-that surely isn't a transformer...is it?
Depends what you mean by a power pack. Here in the UK (and elsewhere, as I understand it), the transformer is combined with the wall plug.
@@MessingaboutwithModels Thank you 'MaM' =P. This would be for a US layout. From doing a little search I better understand this unit. Seems to be of good quality.
Will these operate the new 18 pin DCCs? Sorry i'm new to DCC stuff
18-pin decoders should all meet the DCC standard, so yes.
We have a layout with up to 20 locos on the track ready to run. I want to be able to run up to 3 of these locos at a time. Will this system handle this OK??
Yes, there should be no problem at all. Most modern locos draw a lot less power than the older ones from before the 1980s, and even with sound don't pull more than 0.5A. The power in the starter set is just under 2A, so will handle 3 or 4 locos with no difficulty.
If you did want to increase the power, you can buy a 5A booster, and unlike some other systems, you won't need to replace your handset.
Great find, my son had requested the MRC Prodigy on Amazon for $136 but I was looking at the NCE for $222. When he last used his ho he was wanting the MTH DCS and now it looks like MTH is no more.
Thanks for that, I'd not heard of MTH.
MTH product line being taken over :) Found this on the MTH website.
Although the entire tooling portfolio wasn't sold to a single buyer, this past Winter several tooling sales did occur, including the sale of the HO and S Gauge tooling assets to Scale Trains in January 2021, followed by the March purchase of select O gauge tools by Atlas. At this point, approximately 20% of the O Gauge tooling portfolio, including the Atlas purchases, have been sold to date. The as-of-now unnamed buyers of the other O Gauge tooling will be revealed later this Summer.
Just an Update to the video on Prices and Availability. The NCE Power cab was hard to find 2 years ago, but you could get it at around £150. Now its £210 minium.
Still a good price in my opinion. That being said, I have also had the pleasure of owning a Dynamis Ultima as well as a Power Cab and I've got to say I love the Dynamis, 5amp supply straight out of the box, Wireless (ive not had any dropouts and I'm in a room with lots of sun light so infared should be an issue but never has been), the controller is light and compact without feeling cheap, it looks like it was designed by someone not 50 years old, and it is very simple to use, I've found the Ultima the go to for beginners and seasoned DCC people alike, its just more intutive over the Power cab.
The Dynamis is £200 new from a variety of places, and the add-ons are cheaper and easier to configure and understand and aquire. The NCE is good (I love mine for getting really into the decoders) but for playing trains and moving around and showing people DCC the Dynamis Ultima is by far the better product. Maybe its because I'm a bit younger but the Ultima just has a friendlier and thoughtful design.
The price of everything has gone up. It is still good value, compared to its competitors.
Hello, i have a query...can you give CVs in bachmann ez command controller??
The only programming you can do with the EZ Command is to set the address to a value between 1 and 9.You cant change any other CVs
@@MessingaboutwithModels Thanks for replying !!! I have a hornby dcc select controller with 1.6 version firmware. Is it better than ez command?
One good choice is the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express. I have one and it has a good ratio features/ease to use. I had bought ages ago the original version by MRC direct from the US, and it is a good controller for a small shunting layout, and for initial programming.
I also have a NCE, it's a great bang for the pound, maybe better than the Gaugemaster.
For full computerized use, I'm in for a Dijikeijs DR-5000 with JMRI on Linux? Not the same league, I will buy one the next year.
I did seriously think about the Prodigy, but just didnt get on with it ergonomically. The PowerCab fits nicely in my hand - thats why I recommend people should try out a controller before buying it.
What do YOU think is the best DCC System? Maybe its one I havnt mentioned? Let me know in the comments!
DCC++EX fraction of the cost (£30 all in for me) with more functionality than a NCE powercab starter kit. Only needs a tam valley booster to be equivalent to a NCE powercab pro all for a £100!
What functionality does it have that the NCE PowerCab doesn't?
I don't know if they are available in the UK, but Roco's z21 and Z21 are big on the continent, and certainly seem very capable to me, a novice.
ROCO Z21, as there is no need to remember any loco or turnout numbers, as the user interface is pictorial. I still admire Charlie at Chadwick, but having to remember and then type in those digits each time must be a nightmare.
PIKO smart control light. It's like NCE power cab but cheaper.
Have you come across dead rail Bluetooth systems?
To me, these seem ideal: zero track wiring, use your mobile as a controller, slow running to die for, (especially over points).
However, these systems seem very rare, so I must be missing something...
Any idea why this hasn't caught on?
DCC has been around in its current form for at least 25 years. The Bluetooth type systems are still i their infancy by comparison - give them time!
I had a NCE Power Cab (I bought it new from a dealer) and to be blunt, I hated it and sold it a quite a loss just to get rid of it. It felt flimsy, the controls physically were not smooth. I went back to my Atlas Commander quite happily.
I've got an e link and a select which has been upgraded. The functions on the new select are brilliant. The e link is a pain in the arse, it's fully feature packed and brilliant for controlling points, but like you say the software is very poor and if your not a wizz on computers you might struggle getting the usb connected
Hi Matt, the newer Select does avoid the problems with the older models, but with an RRP of £135, its not a great deal more to get an even better system, in my opinion, so I suppose it depends on the price you pay for it.
@@MessingaboutwithModels yeh I suppose your right, I only paid 35 quid for it off eBay and then Hornby charged me 15 for the upgrade so I can't complain really!
Now that really IS a bargain!
What functions does the newer Select have? Does it resolve the compatibility issues with other brands of decoders? I only ask because I use a select for my layout, and might see about getting mine upgraded if it fixes some of those issues.
I hear that some of the compatibility issues are resolved, but it's not something that Hornby have ever admitted to as far as I am aware. v1.5 added the ability to use functions up to 28 while 1.6/2.0 allows you to program individual CVs.
A timely video... thank you
Glad it was helpful! Let us know what system you decide to buy.
@@MessingaboutwithModels Think it will be the NCE
I think Roco Multimaus is the best controller
Its certainly one I've always wanted to try out - hopefully Roco is watching and will send me a model for review!
I liked the video but most if not all in now ancient
I am a fan of JRMI for train control and points (turnout) control
I have used a Sprog I found it limited.
Early on tried a Hornby setup it was horrid.
Had a lot of fun setting up an Arduino and Raspberry Pi with JRMI (good and very cheap)
As for my needs today, I use the Digikeijs DR5000 controller + 2 x DR4018 Digikeijs 16-channel switch decoder. They work superbly using and old aging PC and 2 x 24-inch monitors. I have 2 old android tablets that guests can use via the built in Digikeijs Wi-Fi. The software that comes with Digikeijs is functional but a bit basic if you go this route use JRMI it is a bit of a learning curve but worth it.
All my track is n gauge Kato with Digikeijs DR4101 switch interfaces for ac points adapters linked to the 2 DR4018’s and controlled through JRMI PanelPro.
Took me a fair while to get to grips setting it all up but there are some great TH-cam tutorials to help total cost under £350.
JRMI PanelPro and DecoderPro are completely free with most PC operating systems supported. Many thanks to the JRMI developers you are great. Their tutorials are very thorough and can be easily found on their website and again on TH-cam.
I certainly like the JMRI set up, and I have used a Sprog for programming. They're both great at what they do.
I have got Dynamis, and a Dynamis Ultima. I have found the Ultima is not as good as the original Dynamis, so I would not get one. Although the Ultima can read back CVs, it is very unreliable, and you often get an error! If your Dynamis does not make contact with the base station, take the handset apart and bend the contacts back to right-angles with the case. The Dynamis can be set not to cut out when the line of site to the base station is lost. You don't mention the eLink, which is a good one to get if you have got an old Windows XP laptop lying around, as it will work on that! Thanks for uploading.
Thanks for the tip on the Dynamis. I mention the eLink in passing really, but the software (Railmaster) is a bit clunky
i bought a digikijs dr5000 and i wouldnt swap it for a million quid. has all features works on your mobile tablet and pc. its cheap for the features it carries and reliable.
I've not tried those - I've tried controllers with phone apps though, and they take some getting used to.
@@MessingaboutwithModels everything new needs getting used to. but having a curled up cable attached to your controller is already a hindrance on its own. no freedom of moving around your layout or worrying the cable would pull the controller to the floor if you have a derailment or other such problems. with the dr5000 just put your mobile or tablet down anywhere and sort the problem out without having to stop the whole layout.
When buying a DCC system keep in mind that some older systems only have functions up to F8. Some of the newer decoders won't run unless the system has F9 available.
Got my first PowerCab circa 2006, cost me £90. never looked back.
Wish they were still that price! Still good value though, compared to other similar priced set-ups.
I got Z21 it uses WI-FI
Have to say, I'd really like to try out the Z21, heard great things about it.
if it's realism, slow running and cheap DCC you're after, you have to look at the Hornby HM7000 app that controls the loco directly using a tablet or phone via bluetooth (you can also run it normally on DCC). You're now going to say, so what's the difference to HM7000 and any other DCC system as far as realism and slow running. Well this is the clever bit, as hornby have designed the decoder to run directly from a dc power supply (not PWM), you need to forget the power supply and run the decoder directly off batteries (8.4 to 12.6v), fitted internally in the loco. Most will now say "you can't put 12v batteries in a loco", and i say yes you can and to show just how small you go with 12v batteries i'm converting an 06 hornby shunter atm.
The last bit is the price, £60 for a fully programmable sound decoder.......that's cheap.!!!
I just stumbled onto this video today. I didn't see Digitrax in the list, but even more importantly, Train Control Systems (TCS) will be offering a new Command Station utilizing LCC protocols in August this year (2022). TCS already offers too highly rated Wi-Fi throttles that work with NCE, Digitrax and other Wi-Fi capable DCC systems. And also the TCS command station can work with Digitrax and NCE Hammerhead throttles as well as a system popular in Europe. You may want to do an updated "Don't buy a new DCC System" video after watching this: th-cam.com/video/OOKjhMsIIM4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ModelRailroadHobbyistmagazine
Happy to update it when I get hold of new controllers to test. At the moment I'm not planning on buying any myself - the NCE works well. But if any manufacturers want to send me a model to test and review, I'd welcome it!
@@MessingaboutwithModels I think a lot of people with NCE feel they don't need to change and if the system is doing what you need and your happy, why spend more money? I have a DIgitrax Chief system and I found it isn't very user friendly to do consisting etc. and in America many trains run with 2, 3 or more engines so this is important. The TCS system is looking like a good possible system to change over to.
shame you never reviewed the dr5000
Quite happy to review it if someone was willing to send me one!
As an owner of the Bachmann E-Z Command, I agree with everything you said. But with 27 locos and counting, I still find it usable. I just made a no-BS assessment of which locos I would run at the same time. And I've made some minor hardware mods that I'm very fond of. I do not program CVs with it; I have DecoderPro and a Sprog for that.
Would always recommend a SPROG for programming, but not everyone is keen on using a computer.
“It costs over £300” (screams in the distance)
Quite. If I'm paying that much I expect something special!
Well made video
Am analogue so this goes all my head
Sorry
But it a great video for dcc people
Keep safe arp
Thanks Adi! Hope you're keeping well. Just hope this video will help those folk who are going digital. I think analogue will be around for quite a while yet though!
@@MessingaboutwithModels reason I have a gaugemaster combi is they great for coreless motors
I use a Combi for DC - great little controllers!
@@AdiPullen Got one too for initial running of engines with coreless motors. My last N7 by Oxford Rail is running it it right now. It's a good controller at a decent price, you can buy one per track if you want a complete control in a station/whole layout in DC without hassle, plug one per section and no problem.
Lenz é o pai do DCC !
Mas, hoje em dia, controlador ROCO Multimaus com sistema Z21 ! Este é o melhor do mundo há dez anos, superando a ESU.
I've wanted to try out a Roco MultiMaus for ages, I like the look of them as controllers.
Thanks.
Nothing more than opinions. When buying a controller decide on what you need, easy USB PC connection, power capability, and most importantly, personal preference.
Of course they're opinions! Any review is just someone's opinion. This just happens to be mine.
Shame you didn’t review the Hornby elite it’s better than you think bar modellers general dislike of it
I don't have an Elite, which is why I wasn't able to give more than a passing opinion on it. Which is that at £300, it's very over-priced for what it is, and for that reason alone I wouldn't recommend it
@@MessingaboutwithModels Twice the price of a Digikeijs DR-5000, and you can get a Digitrax DCS 52, which does at least the same, for GBP 100 less.
il stick with the superior DC system
And thats fine.
You need to raise your script up to the same level as your camera.
Thanks for the feedback
Hi I have used the Hornby elite ever Sind it come out very happy with it and I have got a garden railway oogauge have a look TH-cam Paul Barnard Daws Heath garden railway oogauge
Looks good. I havnt used the Elite personally, great to see it in action.
Sorry to disagree, but I had an elite, which requires laboriously remembering loco and point numbers and typing them in each time. The Roco Z21 is so much easier as the user interface is pictorial.
I think it is each to only i very happy with my elite it is nice to have too controll nobs
Bachmann's looks like a toy and Lenz set 100 looks like an old fashioned 3 quid calculator. Hornby DCC also looks cheap. NCE for me all the way.
I just liked the ergonomics of it. And you're right, it doesn't look or feel dated like some others.
@@MessingaboutwithModels I really want to change to Lenz for their great decoders etc but their throttles just look awful, I wish they could make something that looks better.
They havnt changed their designs in all the time I've known them (15+ years). Their decoders are brilliant though.
Try liberating yourself from all this manufacturer mumbo jumbo : Convert to RC direct cab control battery in loco No more dodgy track electrics . Make your own track. Power is in the loco As real locos.
NCE the rest are all garbage controllers !
Certainly the best of the ones I've tried
It's not a case of which DCC system to use, but whether you should waste money on a "Toy Train Set" control system. All DCC systems now being inter compatible, means the basic control system is set in stone ! You simply choose which expensive extras to add. But unfortunately NONE of the extras can alter the basic flaw in DCC, which is that it cannot replicate ANY of the real life railway control systems !
Real railways have books full of rules, all designed to prevent train crashes. As a result they are very complex. So Operation (movement) of ANY train, has to work within the rules applicable to the line it is moving along, which has to include "Interlocking".
So for example, if the line is semaphore signaled, it works to Absolute Block rules. Which means only ONE train is allowed on each "Running Line", within the WHOLE area controlled by a Signalbox. Irrespective of how many signals that box has on each of the "Running Lines". Further all the signals have to be interlocked with each other and any pointwork, to ensure safety.
Absolute Block is a very safe mechanical signalling system, and also one of the most simplistic. But the question is can DCC even replicate this simple system. Of course NOT. So it obviously can't replicate the operational methods for any of the more complex systems such as Track Circuit Block. Which as its name implies requires Track Circuits to ensure the known whereabouts of each train, and ensure each signal returns to red automatically, as a train passes.
Further can DCC ensure that if you pass a signal at danger, your train is stopped, like a real one. As real trains have AWS (Automatic Warning System)? No DCC can't. Indeed there is no DCC system, or add on accessory that can operate signals in a real life manner. For the simple reason DCC has no method of adding the real life interlocking, because every model railway has a different track plan.
DCC is therefore a childish gimmick laden, toy train set, commercial success, and costs a fortune.
My exhibition layouts have for near 40 years always had the correct signalling block system, relevant to the period modelled, including Track Circuits and AWS. And nothing more complex than Relays are needed. And costs roughly 15% of any DCC system, and requires LESS wiring.
DCC is fine for home use. But it is an abomination when applied to exhibition layouts, and reveals most modellers today, KNOW NOTHING ABOUT REAL RAILWAYS, or they wouldn't use it.
Happy Modelling 😝.
Check out the McKinley Railway - its computer controlled DCC, and they have to drive to the signals!
OK calm down I'm an engineman BR and I run trains for fun like most people, Guess what it's not serious no one is going to get killed, Unfortunately I've witnessed such events on BR chill out.
The video are three months old and you present old digital system which does not produce anymore time. Really dumb video! :-(
All of the systems I talk about in the video are still widely available new here in the UK, and are popular with many people.
I'd strongly recommend that you put your script/flipchart board/bullet points above, or next to the camera, as you look like you are reading Braille. Good concise presentation though.
If I had kids running around, screaming bloody murder, I definitely would lock myself up in some rarely used room, like the basement, or perhaps the attic, and spend the day playing trains! Just give me a decent sound system in there to help drown out the unpleasantries until I had my railroad up and running! Regardless, thanks for the information!
Good luck!