Not sure how far along you got when you ended part one, I want to share some insight with you that I learned myself the hard way. I replaced the pump on my truck because hard starts were becoming more and more common, even with properly functioning glow plugs on warm days and an airtight fuel system. I replaced the pump and the issue persisted, even worse than before with new injectors to boot. I had pop tested the injectors so I knew they were good. I ran a compression test through the holes for the glow plugs with the shut down solenoid disconnected, and those results were well within spec (260-440 psi.) I threw my old pump back on there (after replacing the starter lol) and she fired right up. The “reman” pump I’d bought was faulty, I suspect the advance bore was neglected but I’m not sure. I bought ANOTHER reman pump through a different vendor and she fired up a treat, no issues. If you experience consistent, excessive hard starting with all your new components, don’t panic, throw your old pump back on there to confirm she starts up same as before, that would eliminate the gear being a tooth off. I suspect you’ll be getting a pump and injectors from Justin at R&D Idi performance, so the issue with the advance bore shouldn’t be a thing but it is still something to consider.
Truck is on the road and running strong. I only replaced the pump and injectors for the sake of power and better drivability with weight on the truck. My goal was stock powerstroke power and feel and I've surpassed that. With that said, stock pump and injectors are on the parts shelf bagged as spares as they were in good shape.
The engine does not have to be at TDC to replace the pump, but the manual does specify having the engine at TDC when installing the pump gear housing, as that is typically done with the front cover removed to reveal the timing marks on the front gear train
Chris, My 85 f250 idi has never been hot and up until 20 k ago never blew visible exhaust... Now it blows blue and I have to keep the oil topped off. I have to use ether because the glow plugs don't work... Any hope of fixing my oil burning issue?
A compression test could give you insight to the health of the cylinders in relation to each other, the spec is 260 psi to 440 psi. You want to have all the cylinders within that range with no more than 25 psi variation between cylinders.
I wasn't replacing parts due to failure. I've never had a mechanical failure caused by my fuel. I kept my originals for spares. I went with a hotter pump from R&D and stg 1 injectors from them as well. Pricing is on his website.
Mixed results are wide spread; you’ll have guys like Chris who do extensive testing, put in the time and money and they’ll have constant issues. Then you’ll have someone’s grandpa who pours every oil change through a rag into the fuel tank and has run the original pump and injectors past 400,000 miles. It’s hard to pin down consistency. The older trucks aren’t money pits and they’re easy to work on, but you WILL work on them.
@@adrienst.raymond6801 I only replaced the pump and injectors for power. I wanted more umph to pull the trailer I'm building. Stock pump and injectors are going on the shelf as spares.
Not sure how far along you got when you ended part one, I want to share some insight with you that I learned myself the hard way. I replaced the pump on my truck because hard starts were becoming more and more common, even with properly functioning glow plugs on warm days and an airtight fuel system. I replaced the pump and the issue persisted, even worse than before with new injectors to boot. I had pop tested the injectors so I knew they were good. I ran a compression test through the holes for the glow plugs with the shut down solenoid disconnected, and those results were well within spec (260-440 psi.) I threw my old pump back on there (after replacing the starter lol) and she fired right up. The “reman” pump I’d bought was faulty, I suspect the advance bore was neglected but I’m not sure. I bought ANOTHER reman pump through a different vendor and she fired up a treat, no issues. If you experience consistent, excessive hard starting with all your new components, don’t panic, throw your old pump back on there to confirm she starts up same as before, that would eliminate the gear being a tooth off. I suspect you’ll be getting a pump and injectors from Justin at R&D Idi performance, so the issue with the advance bore shouldn’t be a thing but it is still something to consider.
Truck is on the road and running strong. I only replaced the pump and injectors for the sake of power and better drivability with weight on the truck. My goal was stock powerstroke power and feel and I've surpassed that. With that said, stock pump and injectors are on the parts shelf bagged as spares as they were in good shape.
I have an 88 f350 idi and an 85 f250 idi.... The 88 has 50k original miles! Thank you for this video series, it will be a big help!
Thanks for watching
Whats the pressure switch on the turbo line contol?
Water methanol injection.
Does it have to be in top dead center before removal
That I don't know. It was suggested to me so that's how I did it. It's easy enough to spin it over by hand and put it at TDC
@@NotSoGrandGarage
Ok thanks. I was reading the shop manual and I thought I read to remove to glow plugs and move to top dead center
@andresramirez1983 no problem!
The engine does not have to be at TDC to replace the pump, but the manual does specify having the engine at TDC when installing the pump gear housing, as that is typically done with the front cover removed to reveal the timing marks on the front gear train
I see a turbine on that is it something you added to an IDI ???
It has an ATS 093 turbo kit on it yes. Same as the factory turbo system offered in '94. There are several bolt on turbo options for the IDI
Chris, My 85 f250 idi has never been hot and up until 20 k ago never blew visible exhaust... Now it blows blue and I have to keep the oil topped off. I have to use ether because the glow plugs don't work... Any hope of fixing my oil burning issue?
Oil consumption can come from several things... Rings.... Valve seals /guides... Turbo (if it has one). Are you running it on home brew?
@@NotSoGrandGarage Not yet Chris, I have everything to add a second tank but have not installed it yet.
A compression test could give you insight to the health of the cylinders in relation to each other, the spec is 260 psi to 440 psi. You want to have all the cylinders within that range with no more than 25 psi variation between cylinders.
Just curious I believe that running WO causes the injectors and pump go prematurely. What did the parts cost for this repair?
I wasn't replacing parts due to failure. I've never had a mechanical failure caused by my fuel. I kept my originals for spares. I went with a hotter pump from R&D and stg 1 injectors from them as well. Pricing is on his website.
Mixed results are wide spread; you’ll have guys like Chris who do extensive testing, put in the time and money and they’ll have constant issues. Then you’ll have someone’s grandpa who pours every oil change through a rag into the fuel tank and has run the original pump and injectors past 400,000 miles. It’s hard to pin down consistency. The older trucks aren’t money pits and they’re easy to work on, but you WILL work on them.
@@adrienst.raymond6801 I only replaced the pump and injectors for power. I wanted more umph to pull the trailer I'm building. Stock pump and injectors are going on the shelf as spares.