It's well worth the money, I cut 45 degrees of square stainless steel bars to make furniture, it's PERFECT 45 degrees, saves a lot of time, the cut is ready to weld. I can literally make a complex cut of complete inox chair structure in 10 min, in the regular abrasive saw takes almost a hole hour to get cut and grinded out to make the angles right. And the weld finishing is better so saves time in that fase also. This is the second machine that every TIG welder must buy. With some practice and a good electronic angle meter you can cut perfect angles that is no way possible with a abrasive saw.
Thanks men! 2 DAYS viewing videos and surfing the web to help me about to make my decision to buy my new chop saw, until i saw this video finally i decided which one i want. I placed my order today n hope to enjoy my new Makita tomorrow!
What a terrific review! Simple and to the point. Exactly what one expects to see. Great camera work, narration and use of time. Thank you. I really enjoyed watching this.
I also use an LC 1230, brilliant on accuracy and 2000th cut is the same as the first one, unlike abrasive saws that distort metal during cutting and leave you with inaccurate mitres. If your blade cloggs up with aluminium, a few drops of 'Tapmatic #2' for non-ferrous metals does the trick!
Im looking to get this saw to use with 1” solid aluminum rods. Would you recommend this saw? I ask because this review mentioned that the warranty gets voided if used with aluminum.
8.40sec mark, if the angle piece fits against the back wall you should cut it on its edge, it will save your blade an cut quicker because your only cutting through single wall thickness the whole time
I love my Milwalkee 14" dry cut saw! I know that the cut is cool, but the chips coming off are hot. I might not hook up the shop vac, as the chips could be hot enough to burn what's in the shop vac. Also always advance the blade into the work, just sitting there in the cut does create heat that the chips are not carrying the heat away. This could break down the carbide blade faster. One of my favorite things is cutting threaded rod the thread is nice and clean and I can thread the nut on without having to file the edge first. I know you're gonna love this tool!
I'm normally not a fan of the stamped bases, but after about 25 years of using and abusing my Makita abrasive chop saw, I tore it down, cleaned off the rust, primed and painted the stamped steel base, and it is as straight and clean as new. Having used that type clamp screw release, I'm not real fond of it. Other saws have a release that you just push straight in, which is faster. For cutting aluminum, I just use my wood-cutting saw with a carbide miter blade (also works fantastic for copper pipe, which is what I used when I replaced all the plumbing in my house in California).
Hi Jeremy, i learnd a lot of your Videos. thank you. Maybe you remember i comentate one of your videos that i want to start making knife. That is now two month ago. And yes now i made 4 knifes or more and i love it. Sorry for my bad english im 14 and come from germany
Very nice saw, we have the same one at work. A much older makita, and that thing is cutting something all the time, probably 5-6 hrs run time a day for the past 5-6 years. It cuts eve thing from hardened tools steels aluminum and phenolic. I wouldn't worry too much about cutting aluminum with it. The saw was made for that and steels. I'll check out what blade we run at work, they seem to last a unusually long time. Congrats on the new addition!
Have this same saw at work, 4 blades later (the OEM makita blade, another makita blade, a 72T Dart metal sonic and a 60T Dart) and still going strong. Must have made 1000's of cuts of 25mm box tubing, no problems, just a few lost teeth when the work piece wasn''t clamped properly. Runs like a champ. The base is made of >AL
With cutting aluminum you want to use standard wood circular/radial arm saw speeds with a carbide tipped wood blade. They cut through aluminum stock like butter. Same with bandsaw's you want your blade speed to be close to what you would use for wood.
Great review! Thanks for posting. I like the fact that the Makita has a cast aluminum base instead of the stamped steel base from the competitors. 12" blade will cost less than 14". I believe that cold cut saws are the way to go, though initial investment is high. Time is money. I believe you can buy a replacement blade to cut aluminum? Non ferrous metal blade?
Nice Saw Im going with the Evolution Rage 2 for only like $185 give or take a little and its a 14" blade. Ill be so happy to get rid of my abrasive DeWalt 14" saw This should work really well for you. Congrats I know its always exciting to get new tools/equipment.
Defnotdemas i need to check. to be honest i haven't cut any long pieces with it yet. only 1.5" based on that it cut square. i need to find something long and cut to make sure. thanks for the heads up
Thanks for the video, I ended up buying the Makita in good part because of your great review. Out here in Saskatchewan no one sells replacement blades, in your review you mentioned easy access to replacement blades - where are you getting your blades? FYI - anyone buying one of these saws should read the manual prior to cutting. I pretty much destroyed the OEM blade cutting 3X3X3/16 square tubing for a new welding bench project...
Just a tip you don’t need a metal cutting blade for aluminium it’s so soft you can just use a regular wood blade been doing it for years at work and it works great
You did a great review but I did not see you try the mitre lever ? Did you have any problems moving the lever? My lever won’t slide. Anyway just wanted to know thanks
I was actually using it yesterday (it will appear in an upcoming video) and I was thinking how great of a tool it’s been. Maybe I should do a follow up video. I use it fairly regularly and have a few dozen hours on it of cutting time. Zero complaints. Cheers👍
The supplied blade is for mild steel only. Makita does not advise to cut aluminium with the stock blade. A 12 inch non-ferrous dedicated blade with a one-inch arbor hole is recommended.
I have this Makita metal saw and a Dewalt wood chop saw and I find the Dewalt wood chop saw works better on aluminum. In fact, most wood working tools work better on aluminum than metal tools, as aluminum tends to clog metal tools.
A 14" blade costs more but with more teeth stays cooler and lasts longer, so the choice is yours to make. There otta be a wet saw that keeps the blade even cooler, but the complexity of containing the cutting liquid may not be worth it.
Hey guys, I bought myself this chop saw about 6 months ago and use it for cutting titanium pipe. It worked as intended the first 4-5 times but after that the cuts kept taking longer, more burs appeared and the metal was cutting hotter and hotter. Anyone know why this is? Is it the blade? Can it not handle Titanium? And any idea what I can do to fix it/ any saws you can recommend?
@@LiamDavidsonYT Use diamond cutting disc (coupe tout) french made. Or use the old abrasive chop saw for titanium. Titanium is much harder than mild steel.
Hi, As a joiner Makita is often my no'1 choice of tool, I did a small amount of metal work & I'm considering buying a metal saw, one of these Makita's, It's been a while now for you, how's the blade doing or how long did it last i should say? Thanks
I love my Makita Saw as well. I found in reading the instructions that there are some tips on techniques for material placement in the vice so that your blade lasts longer. See page 7 of instructions . Love your videos.
tnx for sharing this video..its really nice...im just asking something,,,,because i have makita 2414NB but abrassive cut...do you think i can use a blade just like that for my 2414nb.. tnx a lot..
I got this saw. Looks very well made but I am experiencing vibration while cutting. The saw is mounted very well to a heavy duty work stand so not sure where the vibration is coming from and I do not get clean cuts like in your video. The cuts are straight but it leaves sharp edges. I am thinking the Makita saw blade that came with it could be the problem. I will try a Diablo Steel Demon 12 in. x 60-Tooth Cermet II Metals and Stainless Steel Circular Saw Blade and see how it goes.
Hi, I bought one a yr or 2 ago, I don't use it much but I've been a joiner for 36yrs & Makita are hard to beat for quality & life length, most of my Makita tools are over 20yrs old n still work as new, they'll be still working when I'm dead n gone 😂 Can i ask how is/was the blade holding up? it's been a few yrs now, did it last a decent amount of time? Thanks
Thank u so much great video bit above Wat l can afford but still think it's great and learn so much so thank you for everything x still need a price if can
You betcha. Also, I can't seem to find an email from you about a knife you were wondering about? I've check through everything and can't seem to find it. You sent it to jeremy@homesteadknives.com? Anyway, maybe wanna try sending it again? Cheers!
I also use this saw very often. If you follow the instructions on how you should cut metal, the blade will last a very long time. So, follow the instructions and this saw will really work well.
I am considering purchasing this saw (it is between this and the Dewalt 14"). I have read mostly very positive reviews, but I have read a few where they comment about the adjustment with vice/table but the motor and blade are actually out of square! which makes it useless for any precision work and there's no adjustment for this. Any one have any problems like this, any comments would be appreciated.
I watched several reviews on the Evolution saw before purchasing one and it works great. One thing I don't recall anyone else mentioning is that the Evolution blade remains almost the same diameter for it's whole useful life, but an abrasive blade gets smaller in diameter with each use. This can be important when cutting larger stock, or cutting at an angle. With my abrasive saw i sometimes found myself swapping in a new blade to complete certain cuts.
some day.. lol if I come across one in Stock.. or a bandsaw.. useless suppliers around here are only factory order. would have been nice to make the parts for my belt cutter. how much did you pick it up for?
Thanks for the video. Bought an evo saw. Hated it. Angle cuts are bad, hoping to get rid of that with a Makita or Dewalt. How deep of a cut is this one rated for? And how do you like the fence and angles?
Yes! I love it! Probably sharpened at least 50 knives with it now and I'm a huge fan. I'm actually going to make a tool rest and a knife clamp for it so I can sharpen the exact same angle on both sides every time. That'll be coming up on a future video. But even free-hand, love it. By far the fastest way I've found to get a really sharp, really clean edge on a knife. If you do buy one though, one tip: don't use too much wax on the gritted wheel. I made that mistake and now I have to re-condition the wheel. No biggie but when they say use the wax sparingly, they mean it. Cheers!
I just got one of theese. I cant express enough how true the saw is. So easy and smooth to adjust. So solid. If i where to rate out of 10 it would be an 11 for sure.
You should not use the 60 tooth blade on stainless steel. It will not last long. Go for the 78 tooth blade, that blade is also better for thinner mild steel. Cutting aluminum is not ideal, it will jam up some teeth and break them off. If you lucky you can get away with it but stay careful and make sure you check the teeth after each cut, also use some tapping fluid for aluminum, this will prevent clogging the teeth. Don't want to damage a 100 US$ blade to soon.
Ha YOU FOOLED ME at 1:28 IT'S a Makita not a Milwaukee, one fact not commonly understood is with steel stock imported from China you could have a hard zone somewhere throught its thickness, and when cutting, if you are unlucky,it will lead to premature wear of the blade .This is when abraisive chop saws have a very distinct advantage and are ideal for cutting harder stock.Of course the same thing can happen if you randomly cut steel stock of unknown origin e.g. from a scrap yard,nice review though,and a happy new year.
yeah I saw that. I've been cutting a lot of aluminum and I've started using A-9 cutting fluid with it. Before I was using the A-9 I was seeing quite a bit of build up in the teeth and the finish wasn't all that great. I think the reason is because of the blade that it comes with. The rake angle of the teeth is not designed for soft material like aluminum. But since using a small dab of cutting fluid for each cut, the aluminum doesn't build up in the teeth at all and I get a really nice surface finish. It actually works really well now with the A-9. Cheers!
Simple Little Life Thanks for that, I was thinking there was a danger issue. But if it's just a finish issue it won't matter for me cutting bits to go in my lathe. Thanks again.
A-9 is pretty costly, you can also use some WD-40, kerosene and paraffin/wax to get good results, just that kerosene stinks a little more than wax... My Porter Gable cold cut is also doing great... Most of my Makita tools are still alive compared to De-Walt or the rest... ;)
An abrasive saw speed exceeds the RPM rating of a typical carbide blade. What will most likely happen if you do this is that the carbide will overheat and the blade will be ruined after several cuts. Also, the mounting hole diameter differs
+Brian Backhaus I go to Metal Supermarket in the SE. Maybe a little pricey but they let you buy as little or as much as you want. Plus they have really nice precision ground O-1 tool steel and all sorts of copper, brass and aluminum rods and tubing that are great for pin material. I love going in there and always walk out with more than what I was shopping for:)
I've been eyeing this saw for the last few months (currently have an abrasive chopsaw). Any reason you chose to go with the cold chopsaw versus a Floorstanding 4 x 6 metal bandsaw?
Number one reason is space. My little shop is a shipping container and it's full of tool so space is a premium. But also this is significantly faster than a bandsaw. I used to work in a shop with 3 nice fully automated Hyd-Mech band saws and those are great for large projects and even making several thousand of one piece. But for time when you're fabricating project by project, I think this is a much quicker option. Also the finish is better than I've ever seen come of a bandsaw. In a perfect world, I'd have this AND a bandsaw:) Cheers!
NeverStopSeeking and he even really took his time with the cut. with dry cut saws, because they run rather slow, you have to really push the blade into he material just like with drilling metal. they can handle it, will cut faster and by that cooler.
Fence moves. The flaws in these cheep saws are always the same. Light castings for the base and fence. It's going to move. Look how high the threaded rods positioned on the clamp. It naturally wants to push over the fence and pull the base up. So what happens is too much downward pressure combine with a bad blade + an offset handle equals angry man.
I love my Makita cold saw.. cuts like butter and i cut myself from a 45 degree angle bar because the edge came out like a knife. I am worried about my blade as after about 100 cuts it exhibits some wear on the blade. I was careful with it and i used a bees wax lube every 10 cuts. There not much literature in the manual about speed or force when cutting. I used common sense and kept pressure consistent and speed was not aggressive ( Aircraft Mechanic background).
14.04.19 - 1.24 Not Milwaukee this one a Makita. How about clamping down 2 inch pipe and tube does it hold tight and not turn removing the tips of the teeth when the pipe turns.
Don't mean to split hairs here but this is a dry-cut not a cold cut. There can be sparks. Traditionally, A cold cut has fluid jets, a heavy cabinet base and runs from 3000 to 10000 dollars. Just sayin'
Só não consigo entender o por que uma policorte que contem o mesmo material dos outros modelos de maior rotação, 3.800 rpm (que costuma custar menos de R$1.000,00) cuja diferença é apenas o disco diferenciado e a rotação menor, pode custar até quatro vezes mais, só por ser de baixa rotação (em torno de 1300 rpm) em relação aos outros modelos que utilizam discos abrasivos .... NADA JUSTIFICA ESTA DIFERENÇA !!! (a não ser o preço do disco que fica em torno de R$1.000) AGORA O POR QUE DO PREÇO TÃO ABUSIVO ???
I do know exactly what you’re talking about and used to use one at a fab shop I worked at. This is a fairly common term for these types of saw though. Run slower and the material doesn’t heat up nearly as much as an abrasive chop saw. I think that’s why these are often referred to as a cold cutting chop saw.
@@Simplelittlelife yes that is right, they leave almost perfect cut surface, but they are extremly heavy, require 3 phase power, and you need different blade for any material that you cut so you don't ruin them because they are very expensive. They are used in the production enviroment and most people like you and I are better soothed by Chop saw like yours.
It's well worth the money, I cut 45 degrees of square stainless steel bars to make furniture, it's PERFECT 45 degrees, saves a lot of time, the cut is ready to weld. I can literally make a complex cut of complete inox chair structure in 10 min, in the regular abrasive saw takes almost a hole hour to get cut and grinded out to make the angles right. And the weld finishing is better so saves time in that fase also. This is the second machine that every TIG welder must buy. With some practice and a good electronic angle meter you can cut perfect angles that is no way possible with a abrasive saw.
Thanks men! 2 DAYS viewing videos and surfing the web to help me about to make my decision to buy my new chop saw, until i saw this video finally i decided which one i want. I placed my order today n hope to enjoy my new Makita tomorrow!
What a terrific review! Simple and to the point. Exactly what one expects to see. Great camera work, narration and use of time. Thank you. I really enjoyed watching this.
I also use an LC 1230, brilliant on accuracy and 2000th cut is the same as the first one, unlike abrasive saws that distort metal during cutting and leave you with inaccurate mitres. If your blade cloggs up with aluminium, a few drops of 'Tapmatic #2' for non-ferrous metals does the trick!
Im looking to get this saw to use with 1” solid aluminum rods. Would you recommend this saw? I ask because this review mentioned that the warranty gets voided if used with aluminum.
8.40sec mark, if the angle piece fits against the back wall you should cut it on its edge, it will save your blade an cut quicker because your only cutting through single wall thickness the whole time
I love my Milwalkee 14" dry cut saw! I know that the cut is cool, but the chips coming off are hot. I might not hook up the shop vac, as the chips could be hot enough to burn what's in the shop vac. Also always advance the blade into the work, just sitting there in the cut does create heat that the chips are not carrying the heat away. This could break down the carbide blade faster. One of my favorite things is cutting threaded rod the thread is nice and clean and I can thread the nut on without having to file the edge first. I know you're gonna love this tool!
Yeah, it is pretty awesome and I love it already! Cheers!
I'm normally not a fan of the stamped bases, but after about 25 years of using and abusing my Makita abrasive chop saw, I tore it down, cleaned off the rust, primed and painted the stamped steel base, and it is as straight and clean as new. Having used that type clamp screw release, I'm not real fond of it. Other saws have a release that you just push straight in, which is faster. For cutting aluminum, I just use my wood-cutting saw with a carbide miter blade (also works fantastic for copper pipe, which is what I used when I replaced all the plumbing in my house in California).
Great video thanks for show the saw cutting different types of material.
Was looking at a Milwaukee band saw but now that I saw this... It's on the wish list!
Right on!
Hi Jeremy,
i learnd a lot of your Videos. thank you. Maybe you remember i comentate one of your videos that i want to start making knife. That is now two month ago. And yes now i made 4 knifes or more and i love it. Sorry for my bad english im 14 and come from germany
Very nice saw, we have the same one at work. A much older makita, and that thing is cutting something all the time, probably 5-6 hrs run time a day for the past 5-6 years. It cuts eve thing from hardened tools steels aluminum and phenolic. I wouldn't worry too much about cutting aluminum with it. The saw was made for that and steels. I'll check out what blade we run at work, they seem to last a unusually long time. Congrats on the new addition!
That's awesome. And if you cold check at work that would be sweet. Glad to hear of others using it in the way I want to with success. Cheers!
Have this same saw at work, 4 blades later (the OEM makita blade, another makita blade, a 72T Dart metal sonic and a 60T Dart) and still going strong. Must have made 1000's of cuts of 25mm box tubing, no problems, just a few lost teeth when the work piece wasn''t clamped properly. Runs like a champ.
The base is made of >AL
Twinfire they do a blade for stainless
Twinfire and can you tell where is it made? Is it made in Italy ?
I bought the bosch dry cut saw. I am not going back to my grinder for these cuts again. It should be the next machine after the welder
I can confirm this is a fantastic tool, I have one and it cuts tubing like a hot knife through butter.
Lovely piece of kit! Please dont forget that 1 parts aluminium powder mixed with 3 parts iron oxide = Thermite! +1
With cutting aluminum you want to use standard wood circular/radial arm saw speeds with a carbide tipped wood blade. They cut through aluminum stock like butter. Same with bandsaw's you want your blade speed to be close to what you would use for wood.
that saw is the best on the market
That tool just went on my wish list, wow
Great review! Thanks for posting. I like the fact that the Makita has a cast aluminum base instead of the stamped steel base from the competitors. 12" blade will cost less than 14". I believe that cold cut saws are the way to go, though initial investment is high. Time is money. I believe you can buy a replacement blade to cut aluminum? Non ferrous metal blade?
Hey I bought the Makita cold cut saw and the lever for the mitre cuts won’t slide over ? Is there a trick to make it slide? Thanks
Nice Saw Im going with the Evolution Rage 2 for only like $185 give or take a little and its a 14" blade.
Ill be so happy to get rid of my abrasive DeWalt 14" saw
This should work really well for you. Congrats I know its always exciting to get new tools/equipment.
I agree I'm a firm believer I you get what you pay for. But i also know allot of the time you pay for the brand name as well
I'm with you On the Evolution I also have the Rage2,, I like the Bigger Blade ...
So far so good but i haven't had much use on it yet maybe 30 mins
Defnotdemas i need to check. to be honest i haven't cut any long pieces with it yet. only 1.5" based on that it cut square. i need to find something long and cut to make sure. thanks for the heads up
Well my short pieces have been square
Thanks for the video, I ended up buying the Makita in good part because of your great review. Out here in Saskatchewan no one sells replacement blades, in your review you mentioned easy access to replacement blades - where are you getting your blades?
FYI - anyone buying one of these saws should read the manual prior to cutting. I pretty much destroyed the OEM blade cutting 3X3X3/16 square tubing for a new welding bench project...
Amazon.ca sells blades for this.
hmmm...very tempting
Just a tip you don’t need a metal cutting blade for aluminium it’s so soft you can just use a regular wood blade been doing it for years at work and it works great
hello I am from Costa Rica this machine is excelent thanks for information
You’re welcome!
You did a great review but I did not see you try the mitre lever ? Did you have any problems moving the lever? My lever won’t slide. Anyway just wanted to know thanks
Great looking tool Jeremy, it's on my want list...
Badass, great vid and thank you for posting! Been looking for something like this, sure beats using a hand grinder lol.
Hi
impressive machine
can it cut an angle bar say 4"?
Please would You do a updated workshop tour
don't you just love new toys. :-))
Oh yeah!
What's the "throat" capacity of the Makita dry cut saw?
For example what would be the widest pieces of plate you could cut at a 90° and a 45°?
I am not sure. Haven’t measured it and pretty much only use it for 2” and under square tubing.
how has it held up?
I was actually using it yesterday (it will appear in an upcoming video) and I was thinking how great of a tool it’s been. Maybe I should do a follow up video. I use it fairly regularly and have a few dozen hours on it of cutting time. Zero complaints. Cheers👍
Will this cut 100mm by 100mm box ?
The supplied blade is for mild steel only. Makita does not advise to cut aluminium with the stock blade. A 12 inch non-ferrous dedicated blade with a one-inch arbor hole is recommended.
I have this Makita metal saw and a Dewalt wood chop saw and I find the Dewalt wood chop saw works better on aluminum. In fact, most wood working tools work better on aluminum than metal tools, as aluminum tends to clog metal tools.
I'm about to buy one but I don't know if I should get the dewalt or the makita I really am liking the makitas base dewalts looks stamped
A 14" blade costs more but with more teeth stays cooler and lasts longer, so the choice is yours to make. There otta be a wet saw that keeps the blade even cooler, but the complexity of containing the cutting liquid may not be worth it.
Hey guys, I bought myself this chop saw about 6 months ago and use it for cutting titanium pipe. It worked as intended the first 4-5 times but after that the cuts kept taking longer, more burs appeared and the metal was cutting hotter and hotter. Anyone know why this is? Is it the blade? Can it not handle Titanium? And any idea what I can do to fix it/ any saws you can recommend?
You are using mild steel saw to cut titanium - Of course it would dull the blade. Get a proper blade for ti
@@souffianeyasser Do you have any recommendations?
@@LiamDavidsonYT Use diamond cutting disc (coupe tout) french made. Or use the old abrasive chop saw for titanium. Titanium is much harder than mild steel.
Which brand is most reliable and will still have parts available 10 to 15 years down the road?
Hi, As a joiner Makita is often my no'1 choice of tool, I did a small amount of metal work & I'm considering buying a metal saw, one of these Makita's, It's been a while now for you, how's the blade doing or how long did it last i should say? Thanks
I love my Makita Saw as well. I found in reading the instructions that there are some tips on techniques for material placement in the vice so that your blade lasts longer. See page 7 of instructions . Love your videos.
tnx for sharing this video..its really nice...im just asking something,,,,because i have makita 2414NB but abrassive cut...do you think i can use a blade just like that for my 2414nb.. tnx a lot..
Nice job.
Bar soap helps when cutting aluminum:)
Oh cool, thanks for the tip 👍
I got this saw. Looks very well made but I am experiencing vibration while cutting. The saw is mounted very well to a heavy duty work stand so not sure where the vibration is coming from and I do not get clean cuts like in your video. The cuts are straight but it leaves sharp edges. I am thinking the Makita saw blade that came with it could be the problem. I will try a Diablo Steel Demon 12 in. x 60-Tooth Cermet II Metals and Stainless Steel Circular Saw Blade and see how it goes.
Hi, I bought one a yr or 2 ago, I don't use it much but I've been a joiner for 36yrs & Makita are hard to beat for quality & life length, most of my Makita tools are over 20yrs old n still work as new, they'll be still working when I'm dead n gone 😂 Can i ask how is/was the blade holding up? it's been a few yrs now, did it last a decent amount of time? Thanks
Thank u so much great video bit above Wat l can afford but still think it's great and learn so much so thank you for everything x still need a price if can
You betcha. Also, I can't seem to find an email from you about a knife you were wondering about? I've check through everything and can't seem to find it. You sent it to jeremy@homesteadknives.com? Anyway, maybe wanna try sending it again? Cheers!
Simple Little Life just sent another email to say thank u and about knife my email is aaronchefo@gmail.com
I also use this saw very often. If you follow the instructions on how you should cut metal, the blade will last a very long time. So, follow the instructions and this saw will really work well.
I am considering purchasing this saw (it is between this and the Dewalt 14"). I have read mostly very positive reviews, but I have read a few where they comment about the adjustment with vice/table but the motor and blade are actually out of square! which makes it useless for any precision work and there's no adjustment for this. Any one have any problems like this, any comments would be appreciated.
What kind of steel for first time knife makers
O-1 tool steel is a great option. Easy to work with and easy to get a decent heat treat on. Cheers!
I watched several reviews on the Evolution saw before purchasing one and it works great. One thing I don't recall anyone else mentioning is that the Evolution blade remains almost the same diameter for it's whole useful life, but an abrasive blade gets smaller in diameter with each use. This can be important when cutting larger stock, or cutting at an angle. With my abrasive saw i sometimes found myself swapping in a new blade to complete certain cuts.
some day.. lol if I come across one in Stock.. or a bandsaw.. useless suppliers around here are only factory order. would have been nice to make the parts for my belt cutter. how much did you pick it up for?
$600 CDN. Not cheap by any means but I think it will be worth it in the long run. Cheers!
Спринг роллы
Hi! would you be able to tell me what the ideal speed (FPM) is for a Makita cold cut blade? (the one with the big teeth) Thank you!
How many. Cut in one blade ...
The right amount
fence moves while you making it tight , u still think its accurate ?
I much prefer the evolution S355CPS. It's a beast.
You’ve used both?
is it good for stainless?
Thanks for the video. Bought an evo saw. Hated it. Angle cuts are bad, hoping to get rid of that with a Makita or Dewalt. How deep of a cut is this one rated for? And how do you like the fence and angles?
Do you still like your razor edge sharpening system? Saw your older video and thinking about getting one... Love the channel!
Yes! I love it! Probably sharpened at least 50 knives with it now and I'm a huge fan. I'm actually going to make a tool rest and a knife clamp for it so I can sharpen the exact same angle on both sides every time. That'll be coming up on a future video. But even free-hand, love it. By far the fastest way I've found to get a really sharp, really clean edge on a knife.
If you do buy one though, one tip: don't use too much wax on the gritted wheel. I made that mistake and now I have to re-condition the wheel. No biggie but when they say use the wax sparingly, they mean it. Cheers!
Thanks for the review. I’m looking at buying this saw. Is it fairly square? What about angles? Are they fairly accurate
I just got one of theese. I cant express enough how true the saw is. So easy and smooth to adjust. So solid. If i where to rate out of 10 it would be an 11 for sure.
In my newbie opinion quite similar to wood saw, instead of lower revolutions per seconds rate.
+Piotr Lenarczyk seems like they might be similar, but they are very different. Cheers👍
You should not use the 60 tooth blade on stainless steel. It will not last long. Go for the 78 tooth blade, that blade is also better for thinner mild steel. Cutting aluminum is not ideal, it will jam up some teeth and break them off. If you lucky you can get away with it but stay careful and make sure you check the teeth after each cut, also use some tapping fluid for aluminum, this will prevent clogging the teeth. Don't want to damage a 100 US$ blade to soon.
anyone knows how this compares to the bosch or dewalt ones
Accuracy and price
Ha YOU FOOLED ME at 1:28 IT'S a Makita not a Milwaukee, one fact not commonly understood is with steel stock imported from China you could have a hard zone somewhere throught its thickness, and when cutting, if you are unlucky,it will lead to premature wear of the blade .This is when abraisive chop saws have a very distinct advantage and are ideal for cutting harder stock.Of course the same thing can happen if you randomly cut steel stock of unknown origin e.g. from a scrap yard,nice review though,and a happy new year.
On the Makita's vid, they say it's not for aluminium. Thoughts?
yeah I saw that. I've been cutting a lot of aluminum and I've started using A-9 cutting fluid with it. Before I was using the A-9 I was seeing quite a bit of build up in the teeth and the finish wasn't all that great. I think the reason is because of the blade that it comes with. The rake angle of the teeth is not designed for soft material like aluminum. But since using a small dab of cutting fluid for each cut, the aluminum doesn't build up in the teeth at all and I get a really nice surface finish. It actually works really well now with the A-9. Cheers!
Simple Little Life
Thanks for that, I was thinking there was a danger issue. But if it's just a finish issue it won't matter for me cutting bits to go in my lathe. Thanks again.
A-9 is pretty costly, you can also use some WD-40, kerosene and paraffin/wax to get good results, just that kerosene stinks a little more than wax...
My Porter Gable cold cut is also doing great...
Most of my Makita tools are still alive compared to De-Walt or the rest... ;)
is it 220 volt ?
420v
great video as always :)
thanks!
is it good to buy a metal cutting saw then attach to the abrasive cut off saw? New subscriber here ;)
An abrasive saw speed exceeds the RPM rating of a typical carbide blade. What will most likely happen if you do this is that the carbide will overheat and the blade will be ruined after several cuts. Also, the mounting hole diameter differs
Great review. How have you got on with the blade cutting Aluminium? Any broken teeth as everyone seems to say? Cheers
get some slip sick wax for the blade, will help with your aluminum cutting, or try some tap magic aluminum cutting fluid [smells like peppermint]
Hey those are great ideas. I have some A-9 by Relton I might have to give a try. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
Hey Jeremy..where in Calgary do you buy your stock metal.. I know you get your tool steel from Sundre.. Cheers..
+Brian Backhaus I go to Metal Supermarket in the SE. Maybe a little pricey but they let you buy as little or as much as you want. Plus they have really nice precision ground O-1 tool steel and all sorts of copper, brass and aluminum rods and tubing that are great for pin material. I love going in there and always walk out with more than what I was shopping for:)
can i cut wood with this ?
Probably, but lower RPM isn't as good for wood, and the blade is not going to be optimal either.
I've been eyeing this saw for the last few months (currently have an abrasive chopsaw). Any reason you chose to go with the cold chopsaw versus a Floorstanding 4 x 6 metal bandsaw?
Number one reason is space. My little shop is a shipping container and it's full of tool so space is a premium. But also this is significantly faster than a bandsaw. I used to work in a shop with 3 nice fully automated Hyd-Mech band saws and those are great for large projects and even making several thousand of one piece. But for time when you're fabricating project by project, I think this is a much quicker option. Also the finish is better than I've ever seen come of a bandsaw. In a perfect world, I'd have this AND a bandsaw:) Cheers!
Makes sense. Thanks for the response. Really enjoy your channel by the way!
you said milwaukee right???
I was skeptical , at 7:37 i felt some tension because looked like you were going to burn your fingers. Instead you laughed with positive surprise :)
NeverStopSeeking and he even really took his time with the cut. with dry cut saws, because they run rather slow, you have to really push the blade into he material just like with drilling metal. they can handle it, will cut faster and by that cooler.
I did not know that, thanks for sharing!
Never Stop Seeking 😂
mikita, not milwauke, my bro,
It's a Milkita.
& Milwaukee
Fence moves.
The flaws in these cheep saws are always the same.
Light castings for the base and fence.
It's going to move.
Look how high the threaded rods positioned on the clamp.
It naturally wants to push over the fence and pull the base up.
So what happens is too much downward pressure combine with a bad blade + an offset handle equals angry man.
The back-clamp moved when you tighten it metal peach, seems almost 2-3 mm! ....that's really bad (about 7.06 seconds in the video)
Most people do not know that a Makita sold in the US is made in the US.
I love my Makita cold saw.. cuts like butter and i cut myself from a 45 degree angle bar because the edge came out like a knife. I am worried about my blade as after about 100 cuts it exhibits some wear on the blade. I was careful with it and i used a bees wax lube every 10 cuts. There not much literature in the manual about speed or force when cutting. I used common sense and kept pressure consistent and speed was not aggressive ( Aircraft Mechanic background).
14.04.19 - 1.24 Not Milwaukee this one a Makita. How about clamping down 2 inch pipe and tube does it hold tight and not turn removing the tips of the teeth when the pipe turns.
Trying to catch up hate having no WiFi in hospital
I've owned my makita lc1230 for 2 yrs on the same blade.i use it all the time.i bought a cheaper brand and it burnt up in 3 months
ចង់ទិញម៉ូសភ្លើង
evolution cost just over 40 bucks more. about 220 to your door
My manz, it's a Makita.
Don't mean to split hairs here but this is a dry-cut not a cold cut. There can be sparks. Traditionally, A cold cut has fluid jets, a heavy cabinet base and runs from 3000 to 10000 dollars. Just sayin'
I dont know if the misnomer is because the metal is "Cold" after the cut as opposed to a chop saw "Hot" but i understand your point.
shoulda put a square on a cut or two.
Só não consigo entender o por que uma policorte que contem o mesmo material dos outros modelos de maior rotação, 3.800 rpm (que costuma custar menos de R$1.000,00) cuja diferença é apenas o disco diferenciado e a rotação menor, pode custar até quatro vezes mais, só por ser de baixa rotação (em torno de 1300 rpm) em relação aos outros modelos que utilizam discos abrasivos .... NADA JUSTIFICA ESTA DIFERENÇA !!! (a não ser o preço do disco que fica em torno de R$1.000) AGORA O POR QUE DO PREÇO TÃO ABUSIVO ???
that is not a true cold cut saw, they have running coolant and usually 3 phase motors.
I do know exactly what you’re talking about and used to use one at a fab shop I worked at. This is a fairly common term for these types of saw though. Run slower and the material doesn’t heat up nearly as much as an abrasive chop saw. I think that’s why these are often referred to as a cold cutting chop saw.
@@Simplelittlelife yes that is right, they leave almost perfect cut surface, but they are extremly heavy, require 3 phase power, and you need different blade for any material that you cut so you don't ruin them because they are very expensive. They are used in the production enviroment and most people like you and I are better soothed by Chop saw like yours.
Need to see some functionality not just commentary.
Надо было больше махать рукой перед камерой. Мало махал. Все равно никакой пользы от твоего видео нет.
Princess auto junk for $400?No comparison.
Good ^_^
first :)
Hoto @$INDIA
lol still funny as