Nice job showing how to clean uo the bearings on the rear diff. I would only do that thought if I didn't have access to new bearings and was in a pinch. $12 for 2 bearings is cheap enough to just change them out.
Thanks! Great video Earl towards the money pit I'm actually about to start ripping apart my X-Maxx to replace the lower back bulkhead The screws for the cush drive cover is stripped out
Poor Kraton donor lol. Ive just ordered a K8 exb rtr and spares. $$$$ but hey should be fun. I expect alot of tear downs and servicing. Half the fun. Good job. Thanks for vid.
I had my K8 lock up a rear bearing. On all my bearings I open them up, clean with brake clean and get them moving. Then I pack them with wheel bearing grease from the local auto parts store. It’s like $10-$15 for the brake clean and grease and you have enough grease for a life time. I service the bearings once a year after that and never have an issue. Done this with my XMaxx, K8, K6, and Maxx V2.
This is a good strategy. I have a mason jar full of mineral spirits I throw parts in and shake it for a little. I always check bearings while I’m already working in that area.
@@earlmoorhead5555 true. I don’t have rust issues because Arizona lol. I pretty much exclusively run in dirt, no water no grass. I don’t like using PB Blaster because I soaked some bearings in it and the bearings completely seized up. Maybe they sat in there too long but after that I just switched to brake clean.
@@stayunique91 California don’t have rust either but running in the winter months causes some rust in the bearings and screws plus cleaning the rc also contributes to the issue
I have several video on a iPhone alignment using an app but for a basher 1/8the toe out and 0 camber works great 👍 rear always stock has tow in to drive the rc straight and you need parts to adjust most of them 👍
@@earlmoorhead5555I can agree with that, I'm a big Xmaxx fan myself, have a few of them and an Ultimate or two, and Xmaxx is always a go to R/C...XRT also!!!!
Yes just buy bearings. I don’t really trust plastic diff cases with the amount of torque these go through especially with upgraded systems. Those threads eventually go to shit when servicing and they will back out and then lose the gear set.
You know what I noticed Earl? If you would replace Arrma parts with a much better upgrade part the first time it seems like you would not have to go back for the same problem like when you use Arrma replacement parts. Not on everything, but on parts that keep failing and the weak parts around it.
@@earlmoorhead5555 yeah I get that too. I just keep fixing my outcast with good parts until one day it became a tank.. but you are exactly right… replace this and that breaks. It does eventually stop. Oh, that would be a great series Earl!! Replace everything that breaks until it stops. Then people watching can just put all the parts it takes to make their Kratons tanks… it would be an expensive venture though
@RC-Closer1313 I have an m2 C Kraton 8s couldn’t keep a control arm or wing on that rc as the weight was to much and that was just a chassis upgrade mount and center brace with the steering button from m2c 🤷🏻♂️
@@earlmoorhead5555 yeah, those 5th scale trucks are heavy… you would know better than me. I’m more 8th scale and 10th scale. They don’t seem to have to much of a problem with building them up with some aluminum
Mind-blowing? it's a nearly 4-year-old roller. He spent more trying to make a maxx slash go 100MPH but makes videos complaining about the maintenance cost of a 4-year-old roller LOL.
Got a question my body on my xmaxx the paint scheme on it is way off to one side ain't even close to being straight is that a common thing it's one of the new graphic style......
The diff case will not last very long, the tits that broke off will cause the case to shift and will loosen up in no time. happend to me. they do more than align the two parts. good luck. My 2 cent. Have fun
@@earlmoorhead5555 don't listen to me. figure it out the hard way bro. i need not share any other information i know. have fun with that. It has to have the tities and the screws to hold it together. with the tits broke off it still will not hold it together. it will still slip. good luck buddy.
What I said was: With the tits broken off, the case will slip. it can't rely on only the screws. I only pointed this out because you put it back together with a broken case. It won't last. Have fun
This has to be a first on RC TH-cam, a person making videos complaining about the maintenance cost of a nearly four-year-old roller... I searched and yeah, this is it. What's the point though? Most owners either A. Didn't whine and just replaced parts or B. Bought the V2 like i did.
Dr. Diff🩺 meets the Bearing King!🤴 Great how-to video, Earl! Thank you! 💯
Nice job showing how to clean uo the bearings on the rear diff. I would only do that thought if I didn't have access to new bearings and was in a pinch. $12 for 2 bearings is cheap enough to just change them out.
Thanks! Great video Earl towards the money pit I'm actually about to start ripping apart my X-Maxx to replace the lower back bulkhead The screws for the cush drive cover is stripped out
Drill and put in m4 screws if that’s all that’s wrong with the bulkhead
Wow I’ve had that issue with the idle gear cover to good luck 👍 thanks for the money put support definitely need it on this one 💯
@@aaronmoore5552 for $21 I'd rather just replace it
Poor Kraton donor lol. Ive just ordered a K8 exb rtr and spares. $$$$ but hey should be fun. I expect alot of tear downs and servicing. Half the fun. Good job. Thanks for vid.
I had my K8 lock up a rear bearing. On all my bearings I open them up, clean with brake clean and get them moving. Then I pack them with wheel bearing grease from the local auto parts store. It’s like $10-$15 for the brake clean and grease and you have enough grease for a life time. I service the bearings once a year after that and never have an issue. Done this with my XMaxx, K8, K6, and Maxx V2.
Brake clean won’t remove rust that why I use PB blaster but grease is the way to go 👍
This is a good strategy. I have a mason jar full of mineral spirits I throw parts in and shake it for a little.
I always check bearings while I’m already working in that area.
@@aaronmoore5552 yes me to always checking bearing it’s the bearing we hardly see that can fail 👍
@@earlmoorhead5555 true. I don’t have rust issues because Arizona lol. I pretty much exclusively run in dirt, no water no grass. I don’t like using PB Blaster because I soaked some bearings in it and the bearings completely seized up. Maybe they sat in there too long but after that I just switched to brake clean.
@@stayunique91 California don’t have rust either but running in the winter months causes some rust in the bearings and screws plus cleaning the rc also contributes to the issue
Can you do a video on how to adjust camber and toe on the outcast? And explain what the difference is. And proper set up for an rc
I have several video on a iPhone alignment using an app but for a basher 1/8the toe out and 0 camber works great 👍 rear always stock has tow in to drive the rc straight and you need parts to adjust most of them 👍
th-cam.com/video/punaYt5u67E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=X_Lcf9jdjlLPyE49
I have gone the same way with my diffs, I prefer a lighter oil in the rear diff than the front and then the 20 million in the center.
Yea stops the rc from spinning out on dirt so easily
People think R/C is all play....they are wrong, especially when you get into the 6S and 8S rigs, they take a lot of maintenance....
That’s why the xmaxx is great cheap and easy fixed 👍💯
@@earlmoorhead5555I can agree with that, I'm a big Xmaxx fan myself, have a few of them and an Ultimate or two, and Xmaxx is always a go to R/C...XRT also!!!!
Haven't seen any uploads in a minute. Hope all is well 🚀 🌙
Yes been real busy at work last few weeks July 31st this job end I’ll be back regularly then 💯👍
Yeah regular check bearing of the diffs before they melt the bulkheads which then causes play in the gears. One problem goes on to the other
Yes just buy bearings. I don’t really trust plastic diff cases with the amount of torque these go through especially with upgraded systems. Those threads eventually go to shit when servicing and they will back out and then lose the gear set.
You know what I noticed Earl? If you would replace Arrma parts with a much better upgrade part the first time it seems like you would not have to go back for the same problem like when you use Arrma replacement parts. Not on everything, but on parts that keep failing and the weak parts around it.
Problem I find upgrading the Kraton with m2c is anything you make stronger causes a bigger issue that’s more expensive 💯🤔
@@earlmoorhead5555 yeah I get that too. I just keep fixing my outcast with good parts until one day it became a tank.. but you are exactly right… replace this and that breaks. It does eventually stop. Oh, that would be a great series Earl!! Replace everything that breaks until it stops. Then people watching can just put all the parts it takes to make their Kratons tanks… it would be an expensive venture though
@RC-Closer1313 I have an m2 C Kraton 8s couldn’t keep a control arm or wing on that rc as the weight was to much and that was just a chassis upgrade mount and center brace with the steering button from m2c 🤷🏻♂️
@@earlmoorhead5555 yeah, those 5th scale trucks are heavy… you would know better than me. I’m more 8th scale and 10th scale. They don’t seem to have to much of a problem with building them up with some aluminum
Earl mind blowing are how much money it cost to get one of them refresh😮🤯🙀 does have no you know you love RC thank you Earl Morehead
Mind-blowing? it's a nearly 4-year-old roller. He spent more trying to make a maxx slash go 100MPH but makes videos complaining about the maintenance cost of a 4-year-old roller LOL.
😎💯💯💯
I'm wondering what happened to the maxx slash
You Alive? been looking for a new video. Hope yr ok
Ha my bearings frozen up 2 months in
Got a question my body on my xmaxx the paint scheme on it is way off to one side ain't even close to being straight is that a common thing it's one of the new graphic style......
Hi Earl, I like your video’s. Can you recommend the best aluminium diff cases for the Kraton 8S front+rear that fit the stock bulkheads? Many thanks!
Vitavon seems to be the best
Hey brother, is everything ok over your way? Hope so🤙🏻
Yes just been super busy at work
@@earlmoorhead5555 oh… that’s cool. Gotta fill them pockets when you can👍🏻
The diff case will not last very long, the tits that broke off will cause the case to shift and will loosen up in no time. happend to me. they do more than align the two parts. good luck. My 2 cent. Have fun
It’s for the torque of the gear now it relies on the 4screw rather then the help of the diff case
@@earlmoorhead5555 don't listen to me. figure it out the hard way bro. i need not share any other information i know. have fun with that. It has to have the tities and the screws to hold it together. with the tits broke off it still will not hold it together. it will still slip. good luck buddy.
Man people read things differently! As I agree with you then you leave this comment hmm 🤔
What I said was: With the tits broken off, the case will slip. it can't rely on only the screws. I only pointed this out because you put it back together with a broken case. It won't last. Have fun
Why do you ask a question in the title of all your videos? Thatd something my grandpa would do
Easy way people can search there question according to the analytics
But yeah. Money pit.
I just replace the bearings ..theyre cheap.
Yes but most new bearings need grease added as they have just a light oil in them 👍
This has to be a first on RC TH-cam, a person making videos complaining about the maintenance cost of a nearly four-year-old roller... I searched and yeah, this is it. What's the point though? Most owners either A. Didn't whine and just replaced parts or B. Bought the V2 like i did.
Exactly lol all earl knows how to do is complain that’s basically what his channels all about blah blah blah. And he drives like a grandma lmao