Had a 1990 mk 4 escort 1.4, and when I did the cambelt on that a ford mechanic friend advised me to set the cam sprocket 1 tooth past ford's timing mark, the difference it made to the running of the car was amazing, more responsive and used less fuel. Couldn't believe it. Great work, hate torx bolts, horrible things!
Really good video. It inspired me to change my own timing belt + water pump on my 2015 insignia. The only difference i really noticed was the water pump came out without moving cam sprocket. Unfortunately my torque wrench snapped when tightening to 25nm. So i tightened to what i thought was appropriate. Reassembled then started it over, very nervous times! I intend on buying another torque wrench and checking all appropriate bolts and their respective tightening instructions at the weekend when i fit engine tray (left off to inspect any possible leaks) Thanks again 👍
We have always changed the water pump and all pullies too. You are a great teacher. The Astra Van is a great van and drives as well as an estate. Mine was a 53 reg. Many miles never a problem. Only replaced with a Vectra SRi V6 and I did 86K miles in 6 months. Never a problem with that either. Actually, front tyres changed at 70K miles and swapped from with back for a lot more miles.
Great video mate. Im a self employed sparky and the bearings on my ac compressor failed mid last week. Two days no work. Sourced a new unit and fitted over the weekend with the help of your video.. As i was so deep in anyway i changed the timing belt too. Cheers for the guidance, big thumbs up... V
Great job sir, I believe the water pump bolts are Alan key size 6-8. Hope this helps anyone else reading this or doing this . But very informative video. Thanks.
Great vid..... balls of steel correcting the timing marks. I'm guessing you stood back the first time you started it. Still great video showing all mistakes as well. Not saying "oh no point in filming this for you or I can't get the camera in to show you......best vids on here showing mistakes is what makes vids real life and a lot more valuable.
Same engine on my Saab93. I done my first TB job on this and them crank markings made me nervous but i had the pin to lock it, no problem there. Mine leaked from the water pump, after stripping it again i noticed a little bur in the block that must of nipped the o ring gasket. Next time i left aux belt off and run it looking for leaks. Im going to cold chisel a new notch in the 9pm location next time im down there as the pin isn't needed. TH-cam is a great source of information but sometimes bad, good work!
Had a Leon 1.9 tdi had a vw garage do cambelt the 1st time really hard to start sent it back turns out they didn't time the pump up properly must have been slightly out , second time the pump didn't self prime properly and sucked in air the non vw specialist had car and said pump had failed ,so I diagnosed it myself and bled the injectors myself , I don't think even some garages are any good sometimes if I had another older woukd attempt myself . Good video and you know it's been done properly . Cheers , Steve
Great video Martin ! I have a 57 plate Vauxhall Vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp ( exact same engine as this ) , I had to pay twice to have the timing belt and water pump done on my car at the start of 2018, the first guy who fitted it had fitted it wrong as it was apparently 2-3 teeth out ( according to second mechanic ) , it would not start after being switched off for at least a minute so had to use easy start to get it to run. The timing belt was removed done by a different mechanic a day or 2 later , it was very lucky no damage was done to the engine
"Use a dfferent technique"..? Thought the breaker bar was coming out. Who needs one when you have a perfectly good first hahaha. Thanks for the help man.
I used to be the master of the Pinto cambelt, my trick was to carefully trim 50% of the cambelt away leaving a good section of teeth exposed, slide on the new belt and do all the down below gubbins to get it to be lined up etc then cut the remainder of the old belt away leaving it free to slide new belt on without having to time it all up, quick whack on the tensioner and done in half the time hehe :D Great vid as always :)
Very good video! , very informative and detailed, the gripe I have is why the hell do manufactures use torx bolts, which can chew up very easy, rather than just standard bolts.
Just changed the timing kit and water pump again recently and i had a leak after re-installing everything. The 2 bolts on the pump, it's advised to add a little threadlocker (like you have done). I thought this step was solely a precaution against vibration loosening the bolts. So i took a closer look and the left bolt hole is open into the water jacket of the block, wtf, didn't know this. So mine leaked cos i thought "its not really needed" but i now know its ESSENTIAL on the 8v engine. Also after fitting TB and pump, i started the engine minus the serp belt and mount etc to see if all was good this time, and it was, tf. (This will throw a code as maf is disconnected, i cleared it with a cheap code reader. Thought id share my experience relating to this invaluable video!
Very interesting Martin, wish I had the courage to tackle mine as it's due , but seeing your video reasures me best left to someone qualified like yourself.
for those stubborn or stripped bolts there is a special socket set you can get(I've got a set ) basically they fit over the bolt/nut as normal but the difference is that they have special groves cut into them where they grab the bolt and bite in tight and you can undo them without too much problem,after getting them off it is best to replace them. came in very handy when I changed engine mounts in my 89 camry a some of the bolts had rounded off so I used those sockets to undo the mount .
Excellent video, thank you. Doing mine tomorrow on a Saab 9-5 Tid Z19DTH...my crank looks like one tooth off, advanced, but waiting for my timing tool kit to confirm.
Hi Martin, not sure if this is your van but if so worth changing the box fluid (Fuchs titan a good bet) and checking any movement of the stick when engaging the clutch in first, you may already know but the M32 box is a well known problem, bearings are undersized for purpose and take a hammering. They can be changed with the box in place if needs be, just lower it and remove end casing. Good vid cheers
Thank you so much for this informative video, I just did my first timing belt on 2.0cdti. I struggled putting belt on as it would always spin camshaft sprocket, but using zip ties did the trick. The old marks on mine didn't align at all, so I made my own, and the belt lines perfectly matched which indicates It's timed perfectly, cranked it over 6 times just for sanity check lol. Thank you again!!!!
Nice work Martin, think you got the engine codes mixed up though the one you got the 120HP one is the Z19DT the 150HP one is the Z19DTH. Only know this as I did a fair bit of work on both lol. The 120 is bulletproof though less things go wrong in it that the 150.
Martin Brilliant job done you made it look easy I you should do a check with your local garage the cost of them doing this work then compare your cost witch will include parts only has you saving labour cost Phil in stoke
Great job Martin I've had many of that experience with incorrect cambelt fitting in my garage mechanic days with bad timing marks makes you wonder how engines run and lucky it hasn't done any damage.
brilliant job there. there will soon be a video up regarding EGR though lol. great video and I like how you didn't edit any troubles you had and showed us how to sort them nice work Martin
Not sure why I’m watching this, but dude, I totally said “don’t like that at all” at the same time you did at the 22:00 mark. Ugh I was wincing at that, I know the feeling. Alright off to watch the rest of the video of a repair of a car that they don’t sell in the states
Sometimes on those Torx bolts you can clamp a pair of vice grips on them so it kind of squeezes around the outside of the bolt head so the torx bit doesn't slip and churn the bolt head as you undo
Great video Martin . I was cringing over those bolts had visions of the drill and taps coming into play' I am not a big fan of locktite ,I think some people overdo it then you have the problems when trying to remove bolts next time . Well done enjoyed watching the video especially how you got round the awkward bits. I bet it runs a lot smoother now its timed correctly.
He's only just got it so not a lot of driving it apart from bringing it home. I was lucky to get away with it as they were solin and are only supposed to be 25nm.
great vid mart ,worked on a lot of Vauxhalls (earlier ones) on the older engines the camshaft pulley used to be a taper fit so you had too lock the camshaft as there was no locating pin. funny you called it a jockey wheel ,I allways knew them as a idler pulleys.oh ps if it was one tooth out it would run like a dog .
25 past 8 , didn't you 20 to 9 Martin 😉 superb tuturiol as usual . Nice to see the refurb jack make an appearance. You seen those new ecoboost fords the cambelt runs through oil ment to last 150k lifetime of the engine ! Cheers shout me out one Sunday 👍👍👍
The best tip I've seen for replacing the belt is to cut the old belt in half lengthways while it's still on, pull off half the belt, then put the new belt on and cut the rest of the old belt off. Works wonders.
Nice job. Good instructional video. I was going to ask about the missing mirror cover, then door handle, then bumpers missing. Then heard you say he is going to paint it. Another prep video maybe?
Interesting to watch - I presume the engine was a hard starter one tooth out (and a bit rattly) I've had to put belts back timed different to what was on - it takes a lot of confidence in understanding the principles to not just copy whats there.I guess if you can do two turns you know you've got your thinking right. Renaults are positioned how yours was wrong - maybe whoever did it was used to Renault. Im not a fan of sealant either , nice to see how clean you got it and just used what should be used.
I do miss old intros as well , or perhaps do a new one with all of you in it with the same music as you all looked so young in the original titles , def wont put me off watching if it stays the same thou. 👍
Perfect positioning of the belt and drive teeth etc. Personal I would remove the wrong mark (s). I ould have checked the air filter when you removed it, or at least have checked.
I got the wrong type of crankshaft locking tool at first, sent it back, ordered a new tool and it was a faulty production and gave up, screwed the bolt to the camshaft. with an air nut driver and held back the drive to the Camshaft with a half-inch extender I towards the cylinder head and went to the torque of 120 nm that it should be, it went fine, took a couple of rounds by hand to make sure there was nothing wrong, before the same installation and start-up of the engine
thanks for this video it helped amazingly for doing my zafira 1.9cdti 8v 👍 just curious to how you tensioned the belt as i struggled, i asked a vaux tech he said simply to leaver ageist the idler thats what they do, apparently a special tool is required to turn the tensioner, im not sure however this is what i did in the end,, also just like yours mine was one tooth out, now drives better, better fuel economy, better heater too funnily anough, vast improvement! however i gotta go back in there soon as need to do camshaft end seal, didnt have one to fit sadly and am miles from civilization 😂 but yerhh thanks agen top vidio 5☆
nice work mate. love the new intro much more professional looking ... fits in nice with the title graphics too good thing about your vids is you show potential issues somebody might face. .. most how to vids skip over these. looks like the van has had new engine mounts at some stage ;-)
This is the Fiat 1.9 JTD engine, which Vauxhall used. This guide works for both only the engine stabilizer mounts are different and the Fiats use the RIBE bits for several of the bolts.
👍👍 the timing marks being out would have had me sweating! Also I need to find what’s the difference between T sockets and E sockets. Thanks for the video Martin!
How did this run with being slightly out? If you have your impact, only start a job if you have it to hand. It may have made those waterpump bolts a bit easier.
They can run one tooth out but not efficiently. You can't foresee everything that could go wrong bud but having the skill and knowledge to overcome problems comes with experience.
Great vid-noticed the new horn and poss overspray on the air box-is the van ex damage repaired ? runs sweet tho cos some of those 1.9cdti lumps can be right rattily tractors.
It doesn't matter that the marks don't line up with anything on the casing. You just need to line up the lines on the belts with the marks on the pulleys.
Very helpful vid. will be referring to it again when I tackle this next week. They say use a contitech kit and avoid gates. which make did you use and do you think it really matters? cheers Martin.
I have the Vectra 1.9 CDTI 150bhp remapped at 210bhp allot rattling so I pulled the plastic casing off at the top like you did and I started her up and the belt is pretty loose, do I need a new belt and water pump or is there a way to tighten her back up. She takes a while to start I think the timing is way off somewhere how do get the timing back wich way do i go on the cog forward or pull it back to line it back up.
Have you noticed any difference in the starting or performance of the engine? 1 tooth is a lot to be out. Have to watch its not another person's bodge and something is up for it to be out. The first start is always a relief!
My corsa had damaged bolts on the water pump. They were naughty though, who ever the previous owner took it to. The log book said that the belt had been changed but when I had my mate do it, he saw that it actually had the original belt on. Looked like they gave up on the bolts.
Always best thing to renew the cambelt, unless your 100% sure of the service history, it could last 5 years or break tomorrow! Im not keen on torx bolts, i alway find (especially small sizes) the tools never seem to fit the heads very well, why couldn't they just use Allen bolts? The boot of the Acclaim makes a good tool/ parts storage box!😉
Great vid Martin not the easiest todo these done a couple of fuel pumps on the 1.9cdti . Has this had the swirl flap delete done if not I would before they fail anyway I’m sure your lad knows all about them bit of a Vauxhall fan isn’t he Gary. Also not seen lee in any for a while miss the banter between you haha.
Top tip: Refill coolant after installing water pump so you can check for leaks before reinstalling the tensioners belts etc.
Had a 1990 mk 4 escort 1.4, and when I did the cambelt on that a ford mechanic friend advised me to set the cam sprocket 1 tooth past ford's timing mark, the difference it made to the running of the car was amazing, more responsive and used less fuel. Couldn't believe it. Great work, hate torx bolts, horrible things!
Great video, kinda cool you had a problem so we can see how it's handled. you're one hell of a teacher.
Really good video. It inspired me to change my own timing belt + water pump on my 2015 insignia. The only difference i really noticed was the water pump came out without moving cam sprocket. Unfortunately my torque wrench snapped when tightening to 25nm. So i tightened to what i thought was appropriate. Reassembled then started it over, very nervous times! I intend on buying another torque wrench and checking all appropriate bolts and their respective tightening instructions at the weekend when i fit engine tray (left off to inspect any possible leaks) Thanks again 👍
We have always changed the water pump and all pullies too. You are a great teacher. The Astra Van is a great van and drives as well as an estate. Mine was a 53 reg. Many miles never a problem. Only replaced with a Vectra SRi V6 and I did 86K miles in 6 months. Never a problem with that either. Actually, front tyres changed at 70K miles and swapped from with back for a lot more miles.
Great video mate. Im a self employed sparky and the bearings on my ac compressor failed mid last week. Two days no work. Sourced a new unit and fitted over the weekend with the help of your video.. As i was so deep in anyway i changed the timing belt too. Cheers for the guidance, big thumbs up...
V
Nice one Vince. Cheers.
Great job sir, I believe the water pump bolts are Alan key size 6-8. Hope this helps anyone else reading this or doing this . But very informative video. Thanks.
Courageous effort and brilliant employment of of the "bigger hammer" theory. Very nice job!
Great vid..... balls of steel correcting the timing marks. I'm guessing you stood back the first time you started it. Still great video showing all mistakes as well. Not saying "oh no point in filming this for you or I can't get the camera in to show you......best vids on here showing mistakes is what makes vids real life and a lot more valuable.
Martin, I must say a very clear and well explained video , well done! I might even have a go myself one day.
I send you Martin a big thank you for your useful instructions.I change the timing belt in a Opel zafira 1.9 cdti. Greetings from Athens Greece.👍
You are welcome
Same engine on my Saab93.
I done my first TB job on this and them crank markings made me nervous but i had the pin to lock it, no problem there. Mine leaked from the water pump, after stripping it again i noticed a little bur in the block that must of nipped the o ring gasket. Next time i left aux belt off and run it looking for leaks. Im going to cold chisel a new notch in the 9pm location next time im down there as the pin isn't needed. TH-cam is a great source of information but sometimes bad, good work!
Thanks bud.
Had a Leon 1.9 tdi had a vw garage do cambelt the 1st time really hard to start sent it back turns out they didn't time the pump up properly must have been slightly out , second time the pump didn't self prime properly and sucked in air the non vw specialist had car and said pump had failed ,so I diagnosed it myself and bled the injectors myself , I don't think even some garages are any good sometimes if I had another older woukd attempt myself . Good video and you know it's been done properly . Cheers , Steve
Great video Martin !
I have a 57 plate Vauxhall Vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp ( exact same engine as this ) , I had to pay twice to have the timing belt and water pump done on my car at the start of 2018, the first guy who fitted it had fitted it wrong as it was apparently 2-3 teeth out ( according to second mechanic ) , it would not start after being switched off for at least a minute so had to use easy start to get it to run.
The timing belt was removed done by a different mechanic a day or 2 later , it was very lucky no damage was done to the engine
What a pain, Glad you got it sorted though.
"Use a dfferent technique"..? Thought the breaker bar was coming out. Who needs one when you have a perfectly good first hahaha. Thanks for the help man.
I used to be the master of the Pinto cambelt, my trick was to carefully trim 50% of the cambelt away leaving a good section of teeth exposed, slide on the new belt and do all the down below gubbins to get it to be lined up etc then cut the remainder of the old belt away leaving it free to slide new belt on without having to time it all up, quick whack on the tensioner and done in half the time hehe :D Great vid as always :)
Yes I remember the pinto well Ian lol
Very good video! , very informative and detailed, the gripe I have is why the hell do manufactures use torx bolts, which can chew up very easy, rather than just standard bolts.
Just changed the timing kit and water pump again recently and i had a leak after re-installing everything.
The 2 bolts on the pump, it's advised to add a little threadlocker (like you have done). I thought this step was solely a precaution against vibration loosening the bolts.
So i took a closer look and the left bolt hole is open into the water jacket of the block, wtf, didn't know this. So mine leaked cos i thought "its not really needed" but i now know its ESSENTIAL on the 8v engine.
Also after fitting TB and pump, i started the engine minus the serp belt and mount etc to see if all was good this time, and it was, tf. (This will throw a code as maf is disconnected, i cleared it with a cheap code reader.
Thought id share my experience relating to this invaluable video!
Nice one bud. Cheers
nice job Martin I used to work with vehicle radiator's and with the colour off the coolant the hole system could do with a flush out
Nice work Martin love the way you take the time explain things in detail. Hope you and the good wife are well?
Thanks Dave, yes, we are fine bud.
Nice job, sure am glad the water pump bolts didn’t break, that would have been a disaster. Good save.
These kinds of videos make my life a bit happier! Thank you very much Martin, TOPJOB !!!!! Greeting's from the Netherlands.....
Very interesting Martin, wish I had the courage to tackle mine as it's due , but seeing your video reasures me best left to someone qualified like yourself.
I'm not qualified Chris, its the first time on one of these for me.
for those stubborn or stripped bolts there is a special socket set you can get(I've got a set ) basically they fit over the bolt/nut as normal but the difference is that they have special groves cut into them where they grab the bolt and bite in tight and you can undo them without too much problem,after getting them off it is best to replace them.
came in very handy when I changed engine mounts in my 89 camry a some of the bolts had rounded off so I used those sockets to undo the mount .
Top video Martin, proper down to earth bloke with some good mechanical advice 👍🏻
Cheers Will
Hey man, great videos!
Do you have one for Astra 1.7 diesel?
Thanks
Good idea to use the tie strap to hold and stop the belt from moving
Excellent video, thank you. Doing mine tomorrow on a Saab 9-5 Tid Z19DTH...my crank looks like one tooth off, advanced, but waiting for my timing tool kit to confirm.
What a great job Martin well done is there nothing you can't do your a very knowledgeable man . Jimmy looks a happy chappie.
Hi Martin, not sure if this is your van but if so worth changing the box fluid (Fuchs titan a good bet) and checking any movement of the stick when engaging the clutch in first, you may already know but the M32 box is a well known problem, bearings are undersized for purpose and take a hammering. They can be changed with the box in place if needs be, just lower it and remove end casing. Good vid cheers
Very good. I laughed when the coolant peed out. You have lots of patience.
Thank you so much for this informative video, I just did my first timing belt on 2.0cdti. I struggled putting belt on as it would always spin camshaft sprocket, but using zip ties did the trick. The old marks on mine didn't align at all, so I made my own, and the belt lines perfectly matched which indicates It's timed perfectly, cranked it over 6 times just for sanity check lol. Thank you again!!!!
Glad it helped. Well done too.
Excellent video Martin, again! I can’t believe it. I’m just about to do this job on mine! Brilliant “timing”! Thanks.
Haha, brilliant timing lol see what you did there lol
Amazing quality video for such a small channel
Another good video and great close up footage and explanations. Perfect for the home do it your selfer. Keep them coming
Thanks 👍
Is it all bolts with treadlock are so hard to remove?
Great vid as always but that is the Z19DT engine, The Z19DTH is the 16 valave 150 bhp version :)
Proper job Martin as always 👍
Great job Martin, very informative and detailed view of changing the belts and water pump. Look forward to more great videos.
Cheers, Jeff.
Cheers Jeff
Nice work Martin, think you got the engine codes mixed up though the one you got the 120HP one is the Z19DT the 150HP one is the Z19DTH. Only know this as I did a fair bit of work on both lol. The 120 is bulletproof though less things go wrong in it that the 150.
This is the 120 so I got that bit right lol
I like Jimmy's screwdriver door handle that looks like a job for another video
Martin
Brilliant job done you made it look easy I you should do a check with your local garage the cost of them doing this work then compare your cost witch will include parts only has you saving labour cost
Phil in stoke
Great job Martin I've had many of that experience with incorrect cambelt fitting in my garage mechanic days with bad timing marks makes you wonder how engines run and lucky it hasn't done any damage.
Yes, it seemed to be running fine but it just shows you Nick.
brilliant job there. there will soon be a video up regarding EGR though lol. great video and I like how you didn't edit any troubles you had and showed us how to sort them nice work Martin
Brilliant Martin, fantastic channel- learning so much from you. Keep it up. Tom
Thanks Tom
Not sure why I’m watching this, but dude, I totally said “don’t like that at all” at the same time you did at the 22:00 mark. Ugh I was wincing at that, I know the feeling. Alright off to watch the rest of the video of a repair of a car that they don’t sell in the states
Sometimes on those Torx bolts you can clamp a pair of vice grips on them so it kind of squeezes around the outside of the bolt head so the torx bit doesn't slip and churn the bolt head as you undo
nice one martin good job there always better safe than sorry with timing belts .
Hi martin..
BIG THNKS..just followed your vid and have changed my cam belt and bits .. fab vid cheers
Well done Mark.
Another great video Martin, I love this type of video that you put out, I always look forward to seeing your videos. All the best. Steve. Shared 😉
Thanks Steve.
Del boy would be proud!!
brilliant mate two many videos out there not good is yours mate thank you again 5 star
Never ever ever change the timing belt on a VX CDTi without changing the water pump!
Never ever not change the water pump on any car when doing timing belt false economy
@@john-vh1hz exactly, the only time you can getaway with leaving it is if it’s run by the auxiliary belt .
Great video Martin . I was cringing over those bolts had visions of the drill and taps coming into play' I am not a big fan of locktite ,I think some people overdo it then you have the problems when trying to remove bolts next time . Well done enjoyed watching the video especially how you got round the awkward bits. I bet it runs a lot smoother now its timed correctly.
He's only just got it so not a lot of driving it apart from bringing it home. I was lucky to get away with it as they were solin and are only supposed to be 25nm.
I always enjoy your videos Martin
great vid mart ,worked on a lot of Vauxhalls (earlier ones) on the older engines the camshaft pulley used to be a taper fit so you had too lock the camshaft as there was no locating pin. funny you called it a jockey wheel ,I allways knew them as a idler pulleys.oh ps if it was one tooth out it would run like a dog .
Same thing Pete. One tooth out can make them a pig to start when warm as well.
25 past 8 , didn't you 20 to 9 Martin 😉 superb tuturiol as usual . Nice to see the refurb jack make an appearance. You seen those new ecoboost fords the cambelt runs through oil ment to last 150k lifetime of the engine ! Cheers shout me out one Sunday 👍👍👍
The best tip I've seen for replacing the belt is to cut the old belt in half lengthways while it's still on, pull off half the belt, then put the new belt on and cut the rest of the old belt off. Works wonders.
No good when the water pump lives behind it mark
retrorestore yes, like I said, just replacing the belt.
Great video as normal Martin hope Sharon had a lovely birthday😊
Yes she did Col, thanks
Nice job. Good instructional video. I was going to ask about the missing mirror cover, then door handle, then bumpers missing. Then heard you say he is going to paint it. Another prep video maybe?
He's so busy Bri, and so am I so no time to film the prep on those i'm afraid.
Great video Martin, gives me the push to do mine on the Alfa (similar engine).Thanks again
Interesting to watch - I presume the engine was a hard starter one tooth out (and a bit rattly) I've had to put belts back timed different to what was on - it takes a lot of confidence in understanding the principles to not just copy whats there.I guess if you can do two turns you know you've got your thinking right. Renaults are positioned how yours was wrong - maybe whoever did it was used to Renault. Im not a fan of sealant either , nice to see how clean you got it and just used what should be used.
Don't you have use the locking tools to set it .or is just a case as long as the 2 marks line up your good to go ??
Please bring back the old intro Martin 😊 I do miss it! Brilliant stuff though 👍
Yes me to
I preferred the old intro too.
I do miss old intros as well , or perhaps do a new one with all of you in it with the same music as you all looked so young in the original titles , def wont put me off watching if it stays the same thou. 👍
Great vid Martin 👍 top job on the cambelt
Thanks Jamie
Good job, hope jimmys going to paint the bump strips and put a nice set of alloys on 👍
Perfect positioning of the belt and drive teeth etc. Personal I would remove the wrong mark (s). I ould have checked the air filter when you removed it, or at least have checked.
I got the wrong type of crankshaft locking tool at first, sent it back, ordered a new tool and it was a faulty production and gave up, screwed the bolt to the camshaft. with an air nut driver and held back the drive to the Camshaft with a half-inch extender I towards the cylinder head and went to the torque of 120 nm that it should be, it went fine, took a couple of rounds by hand to make sure there was nothing wrong, before the same installation and start-up of the engine
This vid will help so many folks.. great share man !
thanks for this video it helped amazingly for doing my zafira 1.9cdti 8v 👍 just curious to how you tensioned the belt as i struggled, i asked a vaux tech he said simply to leaver ageist the idler thats what they do, apparently a special tool is required to turn the tensioner, im not sure however this is what i did in the end,, also just like yours mine was one tooth out, now drives better, better fuel economy, better heater too funnily anough, vast improvement! however i gotta go back in there soon as need to do camshaft end seal, didnt have one to fit sadly and am miles from civilization 😂 but yerhh thanks agen top vidio 5☆
Well done bud.
Well that job was annoying. I hope you rewarded yourself with a cold beer afterward, Martin.
nice work mate. love the new intro much more professional looking ... fits in nice with the title graphics too
good thing about your vids is you show potential issues somebody might face. .. most how to vids skip over these.
looks like the van has had new engine mounts at some stage ;-)
Yes, they were changed by the last owner not long ago.
This is the Fiat 1.9 JTD engine, which Vauxhall used. This guide works for both only the engine stabilizer mounts are different and the Fiats use the RIBE bits for several of the bolts.
Great video Martin. It's like watching Wheeler Dealers. :)
A BIG MASSIVE HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MRS BUTLER SHARON HOPE ITS A GOOD ONE REACHING THE BIG 21 X
Thanks Chris Beef was superb bud.
👍👍 the timing marks being out would have had me sweating! Also I need to find what’s the difference between T sockets and E sockets. Thanks for the video Martin!
T bits are male and E sockets are female
Great job 👌👍,I've got a insignia 2.0 ecoflex diesel,it is similar like the Vectra ???
Have you got a video on how to clean the egr valve mate?
How did this run with being slightly out? If you have your impact, only start a job if you have it to hand. It may have made those waterpump bolts a bit easier.
They can run one tooth out but not efficiently. You can't foresee everything that could go wrong bud but having the skill and knowledge to overcome problems comes with experience.
great vid Martin saved a few quid doing yourself.. atb Steve
Good Job Martin and well explained.
Great vid-noticed the new horn and poss overspray on the air box-is the van ex damage repaired ? runs sweet tho cos some of those 1.9cdti lumps can be right rattily tractors.
Failed the last MOT on horn Lee,
It doesn't matter that the marks don't line up with anything on the casing. You just need to line up the lines on the belts with the marks on the pulleys.
Well done mate was worth watching
Very helpful vid. will be referring to it again when I tackle this next week. They say use a contitech kit and avoid gates. which make did you use and do you think it really matters? cheers Martin.
I didn't get the kit bud but This one had a plastic impeller on the water pump and I would have liked to see a metal one.
Just re-watched start again and it's a gates so a plastic impeller must be the reason the gates kit isn't favoured, cheers.
I have the Vectra 1.9 CDTI 150bhp remapped at 210bhp allot rattling so I pulled the plastic casing off at the top like you did and I started her up and the belt is pretty loose, do I need a new belt and water pump or is there a way to tighten her back up.
She takes a while to start I think the timing is way off somewhere how do get the timing back wich way do i go on the cog forward or pull it back to line it back up.
Runs sweet as a nut. Another job well done Martin. Great video.
Have you noticed any difference in the starting or performance of the engine? 1 tooth is a lot to be out. Have to watch its not another person's bodge and something is up for it to be out. The first start is always a relief!
I hope you also did a turbo replacement job as it is whistling :)
Very well explained , love it
Thank you 🙂
Hi Martin did you use a socket to move bottom crank to 9pm position! At all wanna do mine save myself a few quid
Yes Shane. Cheers
Martin
My corsa had damaged bolts on the water pump. They were naughty though, who ever the previous owner took it to. The log book said that the belt had been changed but when I had my mate do it, he saw that it actually had the original belt on. Looked like they gave up on the bolts.
Oh dear, that's terrible.
What I really want to know is how do you keep your hands so clean, great vid keep em coming
Always best thing to renew the cambelt, unless your 100% sure of the service history, it could last 5 years or break tomorrow!
Im not keen on torx bolts, i alway find (especially small sizes) the tools never seem to fit the heads very well, why couldn't they just use Allen bolts?
The boot of the Acclaim makes a good tool/ parts storage box!😉
I agree, and yes the Acclaim is ideal for that, at least it has a use at the moment lol
top man, this will make doing my saab 93 easier .
Martin what signs do you get if the timing belt or water pump is on his way out to keep my eye on
No signs with the belt. Water pump can leak or get noisey.
And i thought you could only work on lawn mower engines martin lol. Nice job.
Haha, a bit more complicated than a Briggs Pete lol
Do you all have vice grips plyers over there? You could have used a vice grip to get those bolts loosened.
Yes I do but I think they were too tight for that.
'When in doubt-give it a clout' lol
Great vid Martin not the easiest todo these done a couple of fuel pumps on the 1.9cdti . Has this had the swirl flap delete done if not I would before they fail anyway I’m sure your lad knows all about them bit of a Vauxhall fan isn’t he Gary. Also not seen lee in any for a while miss the banter between you haha.
Its the 8 vavle engine by looks of it. They dont have the swril flaps
very informative as usual martin and very helpful really enjoy m8