Hey! Black smoke isn't a fail criteria in ASTM 2417, but SECONDARY IGNITION is... so if the candle starts on fire in a second place (either on the wick or lighting the entire surface of the candle top) - that's a fail! Black smoke is bad though too!
These are by far the best videos I’ve seen. I’ve been testing for months and nothing seems to work. Then I saw a video where you explained that a full melt pool isn’t required in 2 hours and that FINALLY gave me some peace of mind because which ever wick gave me a full melt pool by then, was soothing by the 3rd or 4th hour. So thank you for all the information.
Just getting back into candle making after closing my brick & mortar shop a few years ago & being strictly online. I've been testing for the last few months for a fall launch. All was well until yesterday....I had a smoker! I rechecked my FO measurements & sure enough, my calculation was off & there was a tad much. If I hadn't tested, a customer would have gotten it. Thanks for the videos & helpful tips!
I have seen a lot of people in Facebook groups who just started candlemaking. I find myself worried to death about some of the products I see that they are putting out. Some of the questions that they’re asking (while they are already selling candles) is disturbing. Not gonna lie, I honestly thought I could just get some wax and wicks and some jars and get started right up in January. Now I think I’m gonna have to wait until February and that’s okay. I’m glad I found this channel and found really good information to protect people who may buy from me in the future!
I am definitely going to take my time and test my candles, it might take a couple of months more before I launch and that's okay..I live in India and I really think these guidelines make sense.. thank you so much for sharing , I learn so much from your videos 😊
@@ArmatageCandleCompany True, the way that I want to my best capabilities, and when someone like you shares it, it becomes possible. SO Thank you!😀. For me it's not only about making money, it's about putting out a safe and memorable product out into the whole scheme of things lol...
I don’t live in USA, but I plan on using this to test my candles. My main question is, are there any special criteria for pillar candles? The candles that I am making are all pillar candles.
I am watching your videos daily as I learn the art of candle making. My first candle was essential oil and natural wax and it presented with many problems including wet spots, frosting and I just dripped in some oregano oil before doing any research on any of that and cooling etc ... I then, I found and followed your instructions to make a pure white candle.. Tomorrow's day 10... Came out beautifully, let's see how it burns. Sometimes we need to make mistakes to make the learning more effective. Long story short, thanks for your awesome technical videos with valuable expertise and insight shared with the world!
I am absolutely loving your videos. They are so very helpful. ive been making candles for a while now. Getting ready to open a small business, but im just testing testing testing everything. I also printed out little care cards with all the information and warnings about burning the candles on a heat proof surface, trimming wicks, not touching the candle until its cooled etc. My tins are good so far but I definitely notice the tins get really hot towards the very end and I worry about that.
Thanks for this! Are you able to show us or tell us what an ideal candle should look like at end of life. Soot in jar, how low to burn it ect. I am always confused on if glass should be clean of carbon build up at end of life.
I have been failing my candles for months because they are reaching 160 degrees. Problem is I was testing temp inside the jar at the top🙄🙄🙄 bit when I went to a lower wick it left wax. This answered so much. Thank you. I wish you had classes on coconut/apricot wax.
Ah I'm so glad! With a good grip on the fundamentals I know you can crush any wax type. I have a Beginners course if you're curious: armatagecandlecompany.com/course
My candles are reaching over 150 degrees on some spots. I’m testing the jar on the outside by where the flame is. Is that where I’m suppose to test to temperature of the container?
When do you decide its time to throw in the towel on candles and just move on? I do wickless testing, 1 vessel, 2 different wax types, 10 different wicks and woohoo finally find one that I think works great, YAY!! So happy and excited! Proceed to make a candle with all the stuffs- the wick, dye, FO, all the works, let it cure, the day comes to light it, AND it sucks ;( This goes on for months, no luck, is it time?
That's one of the main drawbacks of wickless testing - previous burns influence the behavior of later burns, so wicks that seem to be awesome may have behaved differently due to how the earlier wicks thermally impacted the wax. You did the right thing - making a new candle with the apparently good wick, but it's not always a guarantee. I've had some work great, and I've had letdowns. For me, it's just continued iteration and eventually.... I'll move on from the FO since that's typically the prime suspect when I can't get it to work out.
i have a 75mm diameter candle and have used the recommended wick but the melt pool tunnels to one side, do i use two wicks, when is it right to use 2 wicks as opposed to one? is one wooden wick enough?
Hey, for how long do hand made candle making business people are suppose to test their candles? What does every test entail such as: that specific fragrance oil, wax, candle wicks? Also what’s the best type of candle wick to avoid black smoke and burning smell?
I know this video is a year old, but I hope you can help. I am using the ig 6006 wax unscented without dye. The 12oz libbey jars from candle science. I am testing wicks and can't find the right wick. Everything from black smoke/soot, mushrooms, little wax pool after 3 hrs burn. And flames that are too high/big and jumping, flickering. I have tested all wicks from eco, lx, CD, htp, and zinc. Knowing some were too small and/or too big. And none of them have worked. I have tested a total of 44 wicks. The first round was 14 and the second round was 33. Can you please offer some advice or suggestions? What am I doing wrong. So confused and frustrated... Thanking you for any response...
Bit confused, so if i cure my candle, test and all seems great, if i don't sell the candle straight away, it might not perform well after being stored for weeks or months? Even after testing? Hope this makes sense!
Depending on your wax, it might be different after a drastically long period of time. For instance, vegetable waxes will continue to harden and *potentially* require a different wick. Not something I want to cause concern over - you only control the process until its out of your hands, and these impacts aren't super drastic that anyone should stress over them, imo.
I can’t find video where you talk about first to text new waxes with wicks, without fo to get a base wick for that wax. I was wondering how long to let a coconut apricot wax when using this method. No fo, so can cure time be sooner?
Part of curing is the wax setting up too. You probably should still cure the whole length even if you don’t use FO. But your mileage may vary and many people in the industry are torn on whether you should/shouldn’t. I am team Fully Cure every time.
Good afternoon, my friend my name is Dennis Sanders and I’m starting my own business. Well, I have my business already. I just wanna start selling candles. I would like you to help me to get the right right wicks for the bottles and some nice bottles also
Is there an ideal temperature of the melt pool? I’m using wooden wicks and I’m having the MOST DIFFICULT time wicking. I use small wicks to avoid overheating the container but the flames are dim sometimes and other times they’re great. Some wax is left behind but it catches up later and then the flames go dim again 🤦🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️ please help. I’ve been testing them for many months and nothing gives 🥺
That's going to vary per fragrance blend, unfortunately. The reality is that some hold their carriage better in high heat and some don't. Top-middle-base note profile will help you understand if you'll be in the higher range, but I've had some that throw well at 140°F and some that throw well at 160°F. It's all up to your.... testing. At some point it's worthwhile to throw in the towel with that fragrance/wax/container combo and move on. Usually easiest to find a new fragrance. Some FO just plain stink for some applications.
I typically recommend putting lids on after you can trim the wick, but I don't believe in any significant scent loss if you don't put lids on. If there is some, it's a tiny tiny fraction and no one can really measure that anyways.
Do you think the stick/stir material we use also affect the candle result? What's the best to use? Stainless or plastic? Pls advise. Anyway, great video! Subscribed.
Great question! Thanks for the sub. I always recommend a wider spatula made of anything that won't absorb anything. Number one rule in stirring is to avoid introducing air. Be gentle, not aggressive. As far as the final result, I really believe it's how consistent you keep the blend temperature and how much you can avoid air being introduced into your blend. Hope that helps!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Oh well noted. Thanks! May I ask you more questions? you said on your videos about testing the candle (soy wax) ideally for up to 4 hours. How about if there is only 1/3 wax left on 8 oz jar, do I need to test my candle for 4 hours also? because I got a large melt pool for only 1.30 hours. I want to attach a picture, but I can't do it here. Btw, I'm using CD7. Pls, advise. Many thanks!
@@yaayass The industry standard in the US is to safety test from the very top of a candle down to the bottom or failure, 4 hours at a time. This includes the bottom 1/3 (which is notoriously difficult). A large melt pool isn't a problem by itself, but sometimes exists as a symptom of high temps. Check out this guide for more information (armatagecandlecompany.com/blog/basic-burn-test/) Best of luck!
I could have! The reason I didn't is scent throw is best tested in other ways that differ from a safety test. You might find the hot throw to be horrible, but your friends and family might find that same candle overwhelming (it's subjective and super weird...). For testing hot throw I recommend checking out this video: th-cam.com/video/uhslXZ2vqvI/w-d-xo.html
I know he said it in the video ,but I didnt understand it so if the wax reaches room temperature we can re-light it or we should wait 3-4 hours and then re-light it ?
Please please give me a reason why every wick i use in my candle.is flickering? I have tested almost every eco and lx wick in my container and the flickering doesn' t stop. Please help me.
It's always air. I recommend most people worry first about temperatures and flame height before worrying about a flicker. Especially in container candles that are more than halfway consumed, the local air currents are wild and flickering is pretty much normal. If a candle has a lot of soot AND flickering, it might be time to switch wick sizes or series.
مرحبا انا تعرفت عليك من فترة قصيرة وبدأت اشاهد جميع الفيديوهات ولكن بعض الفيديوهات غير مترجمة للعربي وانا لا افهم لغتكم وخاصة هذا الفديو كان مهما بالنسبة ويوجد غيرها فارجو منك ان تجعل اللغة قابلة للترجمة للعربي وشكرا لك
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Hey! Black smoke isn't a fail criteria in ASTM 2417, but SECONDARY IGNITION is... so if the candle starts on fire in a second place (either on the wick or lighting the entire surface of the candle top) - that's a fail!
Black smoke is bad though too!
This is pure gold. Thank you!
These are by far the best videos I’ve seen. I’ve been testing for months and nothing seems to work. Then I saw a video where you explained that a full melt pool isn’t required in 2 hours and that FINALLY gave me some peace of mind because which ever wick gave me a full melt pool by then, was soothing by the 3rd or 4th hour. So thank you for all the information.
I'm so glad! Welcome aboard and bring on the questions haha
Just getting back into candle making after closing my brick & mortar shop a few years ago & being strictly online. I've been testing for the last few months for a fall launch. All was well until yesterday....I had a smoker! I rechecked my FO measurements & sure enough, my calculation was off & there was a tad much. If I hadn't tested, a customer would have gotten it. Thanks for the videos & helpful tips!
You're welcome! Good time to be online, I suppose. Best of luck!
I have seen a lot of people in Facebook groups who just started candlemaking. I find myself worried to death about some of the products I see that they are putting out. Some of the questions that they’re asking (while they are already selling candles) is disturbing.
Not gonna lie, I honestly thought I could just get some wax and wicks and some jars and get started right up in January. Now I think I’m gonna have to wait until February and that’s okay. I’m glad I found this channel and found really good information to protect people who may buy from me in the future!
I think you decision is wise - much respect! Keep up the great work and evangelize safety among our peers too!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany I’m not that type, lol
I’m just a quiet watcher 😂
I wish you luck! I just started and no lie, I'm giving myself until next fall to get it right lol. There's so much to test ugh!
@@butterflymuse2707 Thank you! I know! I’m making my own vessels also, so I made it even more complicated lol
Good luck to you also!
I am definitely going to take my time and test my candles, it might take a couple of months more before I launch and that's okay..I live in India and I really think these guidelines make sense.. thank you so much for sharing , I learn so much from your videos 😊
I’m so glad you find them helpful. It’s a very fun craft that feels so good when you create something that works the way you want!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany True, the way that I want to my best capabilities, and when someone like you shares it, it becomes possible. SO Thank you!😀.
For me it's not only about making money, it's about putting out a safe and memorable product out into the whole scheme of things lol...
I think I watched every video 2 times lol. I love the way you explain everything
I don’t live in USA, but I plan on using this to test my candles. My main question is, are there any special criteria for pillar candles? The candles that I am making are all pillar candles.
I am watching your videos daily as I learn the art of candle making. My first candle was essential oil and natural wax and it presented with many problems including wet spots, frosting and I just dripped in some oregano oil before doing any research on any of that and cooling etc ... I then, I found and followed your instructions to make a pure white candle.. Tomorrow's day 10... Came out beautifully, let's see how it burns.
Sometimes we need to make mistakes to make the learning more effective. Long story short, thanks for your awesome technical videos with valuable expertise and insight shared with the world!
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for such great, to the point information!
I am absolutely loving your videos. They are so very helpful. ive been making candles for a while now. Getting ready to open a small business, but im just testing testing testing everything. I also printed out little care cards with all the information and warnings about burning the candles on a heat proof surface, trimming wicks, not touching the candle until its cooled etc. My tins are good so far but I definitely notice the tins get really hot towards the very end and I worry about that.
You can do it!
Thanks for this! Are you able to show us or tell us what an ideal candle should look like at end of life. Soot in jar, how low to burn it ect. I am always confused on if glass should be clean of carbon build up at end of life.
I have been failing my candles for months because they are reaching 160 degrees. Problem is I was testing temp inside the jar at the top🙄🙄🙄 bit when I went to a lower wick it left wax. This answered so much. Thank you.
I wish you had classes on coconut/apricot wax.
Ah I'm so glad! With a good grip on the fundamentals I know you can crush any wax type. I have a Beginners course if you're curious: armatagecandlecompany.com/course
My candles are reaching over 150 degrees on some spots. I’m testing the jar on the outside by where the flame is. Is that where I’m suppose to test to temperature of the container?
I really apreciate the content you make, it has helped me through my candle making journey. Greetings from Perú.
Very helpful, I'm just starting out making candles in UK but all your info makes so much sense!
Excellent informative video
This is a great video and information! Many thanks.
This helps a lot. Thank you!
I'm so glad! Best of luck!
Wonderful explanation as all your videos. Thank you so much
Thank you, great information!
Great video 👍
Best video ever ! Thank you
You're welcome. Glad you liked it!
When do you decide its time to throw in the towel on candles and just move on?
I do wickless testing, 1 vessel, 2 different wax types, 10 different wicks and woohoo finally find one that I think works great, YAY!! So happy and excited! Proceed to make a candle with all the stuffs- the wick, dye, FO, all the works, let it cure, the day comes to light it, AND it sucks ;(
This goes on for months, no luck, is it time?
That's one of the main drawbacks of wickless testing - previous burns influence the behavior of later burns, so wicks that seem to be awesome may have behaved differently due to how the earlier wicks thermally impacted the wax. You did the right thing - making a new candle with the apparently good wick, but it's not always a guarantee. I've had some work great, and I've had letdowns. For me, it's just continued iteration and eventually.... I'll move on from the FO since that's typically the prime suspect when I can't get it to work out.
i have a 75mm diameter candle and have used the recommended wick but the melt pool tunnels to one side, do i use two wicks, when is it right to use 2 wicks as opposed to one? is one wooden wick enough?
Can you make a video about how to record candle batches? what info is needed etc
Hey, for how long do hand made candle making business people are suppose to test their candles? What does every test entail such as: that specific fragrance oil, wax, candle wicks? Also what’s the best type of candle wick to avoid black smoke and burning smell?
Thanks very helpful
you're super welcome!
I know this video is a year old, but I hope you can help. I am using the ig 6006 wax unscented without dye. The 12oz libbey jars from candle science. I am testing wicks and can't find the right wick. Everything from black smoke/soot, mushrooms, little wax pool after 3 hrs burn. And flames that are too high/big and jumping, flickering. I have tested all wicks from eco, lx, CD, htp, and zinc. Knowing some were too small and/or too big. And none of them have worked. I have tested a total of 44 wicks. The first round was 14 and the second round was 33. Can you please offer some advice or suggestions? What am I doing wrong. So confused and frustrated... Thanking you for any response...
so helpful....
Love your videos. 🥰🧡
I'm so glad! Share with a friend or in a Facebook group ;)
No mention of burn pool depth.. not that it is listed as a safety issue but isnt it notable regarding the wick being appropriate ?
Personally I don’t think so. It’s more of a metric for hot throw, but convection above the melt pool makes a much bigger difference IMO.
awesome!!!!
What do you think about Artminds premium container wax
Bit confused, so if i cure my candle, test and all seems great, if i don't sell the candle straight away, it might not perform well after being stored for weeks or months? Even after testing? Hope this makes sense!
Depending on your wax, it might be different after a drastically long period of time. For instance, vegetable waxes will continue to harden and *potentially* require a different wick. Not something I want to cause concern over - you only control the process until its out of your hands, and these impacts aren't super drastic that anyone should stress over them, imo.
I can’t find video where you talk about first to text new waxes with wicks, without fo to get a base wick for that wax. I was wondering how long to let a coconut apricot wax when using this method. No fo, so can cure time be sooner?
Part of curing is the wax setting up too. You probably should still cure the whole length even if you don’t use FO. But your mileage may vary and many people in the industry are torn on whether you should/shouldn’t. I am team Fully Cure every time.
@@ArmatageCandleCompany ok thank
Hey Kevin! I can't seem to be able to download your pdf. I get an access denied error. Can you help pls? Thank you!
Good afternoon, my friend my name is Dennis Sanders and I’m starting my own business. Well, I have my business already. I just wanna start selling candles. I would like you to help me to get the right right wicks for the bottles and some nice bottles also
Is it a fail when the test is a candle tin that's double wicked, and has a full melt pool within 2 hrs? You can see through to the bottom of the tin
Is there an ideal temperature of the melt pool? I’m using wooden wicks and I’m having the MOST DIFFICULT time wicking. I use small wicks to avoid overheating the container but the flames are dim sometimes and other times they’re great. Some wax is left behind but it catches up later and then the flames go dim again 🤦🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️ please help. I’ve been testing them for many months and nothing gives 🥺
That's going to vary per fragrance blend, unfortunately. The reality is that some hold their carriage better in high heat and some don't. Top-middle-base note profile will help you understand if you'll be in the higher range, but I've had some that throw well at 140°F and some that throw well at 160°F. It's all up to your.... testing.
At some point it's worthwhile to throw in the towel with that fragrance/wax/container combo and move on. Usually easiest to find a new fragrance. Some FO just plain stink for some applications.
How many days do i need cure the candles if i use pparaffin?
When you curing your candles, when should the lids go on if the container have any
I typically recommend putting lids on after you can trim the wick, but I don't believe in any significant scent loss if you don't put lids on. If there is some, it's a tiny tiny fraction and no one can really measure that anyways.
Do you think the stick/stir material we use also affect the candle result? What's the best to use? Stainless or plastic? Pls advise. Anyway, great video! Subscribed.
Great question! Thanks for the sub. I always recommend a wider spatula made of anything that won't absorb anything. Number one rule in stirring is to avoid introducing air. Be gentle, not aggressive. As far as the final result, I really believe it's how consistent you keep the blend temperature and how much you can avoid air being introduced into your blend.
Hope that helps!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Oh well noted. Thanks! May I ask you more questions? you said on your videos about testing the candle (soy wax) ideally for up to 4 hours. How about if there is only 1/3 wax left on 8 oz jar, do I need to test my candle for 4 hours also? because I got a large melt pool for only 1.30 hours. I want to attach a picture, but I can't do it here. Btw, I'm using CD7. Pls, advise. Many thanks!
@@yaayass The industry standard in the US is to safety test from the very top of a candle down to the bottom or failure, 4 hours at a time. This includes the bottom 1/3 (which is notoriously difficult). A large melt pool isn't a problem by itself, but sometimes exists as a symptom of high temps. Check out this guide for more information (armatagecandlecompany.com/blog/basic-burn-test/) Best of luck!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany thank you so much!
You didn’t mention no scent throw in the failing criteria
I could have! The reason I didn't is scent throw is best tested in other ways that differ from a safety test. You might find the hot throw to be horrible, but your friends and family might find that same candle overwhelming (it's subjective and super weird...). For testing hot throw I recommend checking out this video: th-cam.com/video/uhslXZ2vqvI/w-d-xo.html
I know he said it in the video ,but I didnt understand it so if the wax reaches room temperature we can re-light it or we should wait 3-4 hours and then re-light it ?
once the wax cools to room temp you can re light it. you want to test burn it again for another 4 hours. and repeat.
Anyone making candles in the UK who can share what the UK standards are and where they can be found? Please 🙏
Please please give me a reason why every wick i use in my candle.is flickering?
I have tested almost every eco and lx wick in my container and the flickering doesn' t stop. Please help me.
It's always air. I recommend most people worry first about temperatures and flame height before worrying about a flicker. Especially in container candles that are more than halfway consumed, the local air currents are wild and flickering is pretty much normal. If a candle has a lot of soot AND flickering, it might be time to switch wick sizes or series.
so this explains why i cant buy a candle with a large flame and making lots of smoke for my sconces in my dungeon...
Does this mean you have to test ALL the candle jars made or just the one jar from a batch of letsay 20?
I recommend testing one in every 100, or when you have a significant change in your supply chain (such as a new lot of wax).
If the wick only smokes during the last hour of its burn, is this normal?
I would vote “no”.
مرحبا انا تعرفت عليك من فترة قصيرة وبدأت اشاهد جميع الفيديوهات ولكن بعض الفيديوهات غير مترجمة للعربي وانا لا افهم لغتكم وخاصة هذا الفديو كان مهما بالنسبة ويوجد غيرها فارجو منك ان تجعل اللغة قابلة للترجمة للعربي وشكرا لك
I’m a CPA so have a high tolerance for listening to non essential information, but this was 12 minutes of very little information.