@@jaylanecreations5503 Just completed more than 4,200 miles to Pacific Ocean and back. Steering Head bearings hung in there but the bottom ones were rusted badly. Glad I made it in one piece. I must say, my rear end suffered the last two... long.. days. What do you sit on?
@@tomgould2410 It must have been one amazing trip! Glad to hear you made it back in 1 piece! I got back from a trip looping from Oklahoma out through NM, TX, CO, UT, NV, OR, ID, WY, and back south to OK... Did you get the bearing changed out?
@@jaylanecreations5503 I got them changed. I see why labor charge for doing so is so high. I could not get the bottom one out with Kawasaki made puller (borrowed from local Kawasaki shop) or punch because there was no lip on half the race. Used a dremel and stone. Race was pretty stubborn so I had to grind it completely in two. The dremel allowed me to be quite careful where a dye grinder wouldn't have.
8:40 Thats what I needed to know...the service manual doesn't state that the upper head race is supposed to sink in that 1/8" or so. I have the factory tool and the sucker is bottomed out flush. The bottom race is perfect...I wonder if allballs sent me the wrong damned race....
Hi , im about to replace mine on my 2008 nomad. I don't see/understand on your video what to do with the front brake line that pass through the fork, on a divider bloc .... ??
Wouldn't it have been easier to remove the old bearings with a gas torch? Heat the bearing up to expand it and break the seal between the metals etc? Honest question ore than suggestion. I'm about to do this on my Drifter
I wouldn't apply heat here, personal preference. The fit is just snug and a punch works fine with almost no fight. Adding heat could (potentially) damage the paint or metal. I did freeze the bearings to allow them to shrink so I didn't need to beat on them any harder than I needed to. There are times where that would be totally acceptable.
You can use a hair dryer to heat the bearing without any damage to the paint. I did this and it worked like a charm. Always safely use hot and cold to install interference bearings (In my opinion). Using a chisel you run the risk of damaging the bearing surface.
It can be done with good quality basic hand tools, a good manual and a few 'specialty tools' IE good punch and chisel, and Crescent Wrench. From beginning to end it should book at around 4 hours or so, depending on a few add ons and such. If you insist on bringing it to a shop get to know the shop and mechanics and get agood sense of what they are about- Anyone can turn a wrench, not everyone is trained and has the experience to do the job correctly. I hope this helps. Feel free to contact me with any other questions! Thank You
Yeah, trying to hold a camera and work isn't an easy thing to do. I do this when I can to help others out the best I can, no fancy crews, no fancy cameras, cheap editing software, no compensation and usually under some type of time crunch.... Helped out a lot of folks with their questions though...... Thanks for watching....
I will be using your videos to help me with working in my 1600vn. Great bike.
They are amazing, since last June, I've logged well over 25k miles and still going....
Rubber Side Down!!!!
@@jaylanecreations5503 Just completed more than 4,200 miles to Pacific Ocean and back. Steering Head bearings hung in there but the bottom ones were rusted badly. Glad I made it in one piece. I must say, my rear end suffered the last two... long.. days. What do you sit on?
@@tomgould2410
It must have been one amazing trip! Glad to hear you made it back in 1 piece! I got back from a trip looping from Oklahoma out through NM, TX, CO, UT, NV, OR, ID, WY, and back south to OK...
Did you get the bearing changed out?
@@jaylanecreations5503 I got them changed. I see why labor charge for doing so is so high.
I could not get the bottom one out with Kawasaki made puller (borrowed from local Kawasaki shop) or punch because there was no lip on half the race. Used a dremel and stone. Race was pretty stubborn so I had to grind it completely in two. The dremel allowed me to be quite careful where a dye grinder wouldn't have.
8:40
Thats what I needed to know...the service manual doesn't state that the upper head race is supposed to sink in that 1/8" or so. I have the factory tool and the sucker is bottomed out flush. The bottom race is perfect...I wonder if allballs sent me the wrong damned race....
Thank you sir! Changing bearings on my VN-900 now.
Great video! What pipe did you use to drive the bearing onto the stem?
Hi , im about to replace mine on my 2008 nomad. I don't see/understand on your video what to do with the front brake line that pass through the fork, on a divider bloc .... ??
Thank you for the knowledge, keep it up
We also added a new project, a VLX1800r...Getting her ready for some great and long road trips!
Thanks!
Wouldn't it have been easier to remove the old bearings with a gas torch? Heat the bearing up to expand it and break the seal between the metals etc? Honest question ore than suggestion. I'm about to do this on my Drifter
I wouldn't apply heat here, personal preference.
The fit is just snug and a punch works fine with almost no fight. Adding heat could (potentially) damage the paint or metal.
I did freeze the bearings to allow them to shrink so I didn't need to beat on them any harder than I needed to.
There are times where that would be totally acceptable.
You can use a hair dryer to heat the bearing without any damage to the paint. I did this and it worked like a charm. Always safely use hot and cold to install interference bearings (In my opinion). Using a chisel you run the risk of damaging the bearing surface.
Around how long did it take? Trying to guess around how much in labor I'm gunna have to pay bc I dont have the proper equipment to do it myself.
It can be done with good quality basic hand tools, a good manual and a few 'specialty tools' IE good punch and chisel, and Crescent Wrench.
From beginning to end it should book at around 4 hours or so, depending on a few add ons and such.
If you insist on bringing it to a shop get to know the shop and mechanics and get agood sense of what they are about- Anyone can turn a wrench, not everyone is trained and has the experience to do the job correctly. I hope this helps. Feel free to contact me with any other questions!
Thank You
I could have benefited much more if you had positioned the camera to show all your work.
Yeah, trying to hold a camera and work isn't an easy thing to do. I do this when I can to help others out the best I can, no fancy crews, no fancy cameras, cheap editing software, no compensation and usually under some type of time crunch....
Helped out a lot of folks with their questions though......
Thanks for watching....
Should have moved the camera to the left.