Blacksmithing - very simple way I sharpen metal drills (bits)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- This is one very simple, cheap way to sharpen a metal drill. Glen
www.gstongs.com
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The guy has shown you his method proved before and after that it works, and all you precision engineer wanna be's start slagging him off, some people just want to drill a bloody hole through a piece of metal, Has any one ever thought you might not be in your cosy workshop with all your Machines ,tools and jigs, but out armed with a blunt drill and you only have an angle grinder with you as the only means of sharpening the drill.
You sound British lol
@@Cybertruck1000 English (but that's not allowed now)
Being spear drill bits in the feild...Do that on weekends. Or always use new ones like me and put it on the company account...
Dang man breath, did this man touch you or something geez
Love it - and - doesn't the preferred method for drilling steel call for low speed, more pressure, and oil? That's how you get ribbons instead of chips, and faster cutting.
Eric, I could've (and should've) gotten the drill in the video sharper, that's for sure - to the point where ribbons rather than chips are coming out. But I'll take chips over nothing any day. Oil, in my opinion, is not necessary. Water is a decent lubricant... Thanks. Glen
I like it! thanks for sharing. I think for smaller bits maybe a dremel tool with a sanding wheel and a lighted jewelers magnifying lens would be the ticket.
Glad you like this video. There are definitely more accurate ways to go about sharpening drill bits but this cheap method has worked well for me, especially when I don't have a lot of time. Your idea using a Dremel tool for smaller bits sounds great. The way my eyes are now, the magnifying lens would be perfect. Thanks for watching and for your input. Glen
Put the angle grinder in the vise and touch the bit to it. Should be a lot easier to get the right cut that way. Definitely going to try this, since I don't own a bench grinder and I have a lot of bits need sharpening. Also a Dremel for the small bits should work.
Run your drill slower and a dab of cutting fluid and you won't have to sharpen them as often. Heat will destroy a cutting edge very fast.
Jon, I'm used to using water as a lubricant but someone else made mention of using cutting oil and I have to admit that the cutting action is improved by the oil. Given everything that seemingly went wrong with this video, I eventually will show another technique I use that may be met with more approval. Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
Automatic transmission fluid works great as cutting oil. My bits get sharper when I use them with auto trans fluid.
He makes it look so easy, but I'll be it takes a steady hand and precise grinding.
Like anything in life, practice helps. I openly admit that this technique is not precise but with enough trial and error, it's possible to make unusable drills useable again. Thanks for watching. Glen
Like anything in life, practice helps. I openly admit that this technique is not precise but with enough trial and error, it's possible to make unusable drills useable again. Thanks for watching. Glen
Just learn to do it on an angle grinder it gets easy with practice. Takes me about 30 seconds. A good way to get a splinter is to wipe swarf with bare hands
Thanks for watching and for your suggestions.
A lot of negative comments, if it works for you great.
Your comment is the best so far.
Very interesting. Thanks.
Thanks Wilson. I think I need to make some adjustments to my method and show that in another video. Glen
that is very cool dood
Donald, Thanks for watching. Glen
If you show the tip of the drill bit in the viewing angle/ frame we can see what you mean. It is out of shot.
John Parker
I know I'm not too good with the camera. Hopefully I can improve in this area and I might do a follow up video and show the bit more clearly. Thanks for watching. Glen
Good advice, very well presented.
BUT WEAR SAFETY GLASSES! You only get one set of eyes!
Your sharpening technique is good cheap HSS drill bits. But I have noticed higher speeds isn't great for drilling steel it makes your bit blunt. This is why drill bench are better. The bigger the drill bit the lower rpm.
Thanks
just look at the brand new drill bit the shape of it just follow how it looks
Close up shots would be very helpful for your viewers.
Good tip
You should have start with a smaller bit
I've been sharpening drill bits for 30+ years , I just sharpen the 2 angles and they drill just fine ...
Unfortunately,the drill bit was not as dull as this video
Jeez... I can't imagine what you go through to actually build something. lol
HAHA
I have spent 15 years in a machine shop.Drill grinding is difficult if you don't understand the cutting tool mechanism.He was partially correct with that jig but it requires a indexable stopper on the rear side.Then both the cutting edges will be equal.After that part is finished you need to relieve the rest.Need to use a bench grinder for drill grinding and also wear you safety glasses.If you are an amateur or a beginner there is a 90% chance of getting hurt.please do not try this with out professional guidance.It is worse then a gun if you don't have the knowledge on grinding wheels.Take care. I
Sadhana, While I don't totally agree with you, you give very good advice regarding how to properly sharpen drills and be safe while doing so. Thanks for watching and sharing. Glen
90% chance?
what a bozo.
also most of us do not have a professional hanging around to guide us so that statement was a bit off as well.
it is not that difficult. just get some old dull bits and practice. videos like this are useful for beginners to give them ideas. the eye protection should have been pointed out for sure though.
Glen are you aware that your vise wobbles? :D Just saying "Hi", keep up the good work.
Yes, my vise is not anchored down. On video, it seems a lot worse that it really is. And I've since gotten a new, larger vise which wobbles a lot less. Thanks for watching and good luck in your work. Glen
Caveman Drill Doctor, but I'll try it . . . .
you take the drill out the photo to often you could be changing them around for a sharp drill bit
why would he do that......
I assure you it's the same drill. But maybe that's what I should have done given how so many people dislike my technique here and say the drill is still too dull. Thanks for watching and I actually got a kick out of your comment since the thought did cross my mind, but only for a split second... Thanks for watching. Glen
Pgs Penang, Let me now show you how I turn an old, dull drill into a new, sharp one by buying a new one, opening the package, putting it in the drill chuck and drilling holes with ease... Anyway, I got a laugh out of that comment and appreciate your support. Thanks for watching. Glen
Desk cleaner
Or Cool n Cut ✌️
I dont have time to watch for 17 minutes...
Paweł G so he spends an hour going to the shop to buy new drill bits
Speed and feed. Slow enough for the bit to cut and feed pressure enough to stay engaged in the metal. When you hog, you only speed up the dulling. Lube/ cool to keep the hardness (and toughness) of the bit's temper to extend the time between sharpenings. A drill bit is a chisel turning in a rotational plane direction to dig a hole, ideally curling up the metal. Chips are the skipping over the metal surface and banging down again and again in rapid succession. Sharpen with the relief plane as equal as possible across the back of the face plane.... like a chisel. Take a new drill bit and observe it closely.... replicate same. Learn to do it on a bench grinder with a good stone, learn how to lap the stone to keep it true enough to sharpen bits. Get an experienced machinist to show you and make you do it, until you get it right. When you look into a scrap metal bin in a production machine shop or a tool and die shop, you'll see a lot of curled metal of many feet in length and not a lot of small chips. Feed and speed. Finesse. Keep a cool tool.
this
sneeds speed and feed
what's the point of having the drill bit angled at 67.5 degrees when you are holding the angle grinder at varying angles?
Pat, The idea is to practice and perfect a freehand technique. With a steady hand and a good eye, you would be surprised how accurate you can be though I do admit it's not easy and even when you get good results, it's not always possible to duplicate the good result each time out. Thanks for watching. Glen
For general use, inclusive drill angle is 118 degrees, if you hold 2 large hex nuts together on their flats this will give you 120 degrees, grind drill so it " fits" inside the nut flats....then slightly back the drill off for clearance on the heel...
Very good information. Someone else mentioned using hex nuts but didn't elaborate. I've been lambasted for this video by a fair share of people but plan on showing an alternative method I use in a future video. Thanks for sharing. Glen
In our workshop we have never had a "drill sharpening jig" only using the "nut gauge" for drills up to around 20mm dia, (we tacked the nuts together). equal cutting edge length is very important otherwise the drill will cut over size, remember, don`t back it off too much, just enough so the cutting edge touches, other wise it will grab, there are further issues such as thinning the point, flattening the cutting edge for non ferrous matl`s, drill reaming, how to make a drill cut an oversize hole etc etc etc, but all that`s another story... done correctly, drill grinding quite an art......hope this helps...
oh, my god! I thing,....you sharp drill first time in your life. terrible!!! :(
Glen, great idea if you're out on a site and only have a grinder at hand, and are not too familiar with sharpening drill bits. I cringe at seeing an angle grinder without a guard, fingers are not replaceable, it only takes one mistake.
MJ, I often feel angle grinder guards to be a hindrance to actually using the tool though obviously it's more dangerous not having the guard in place and so I can't argue with you about the safety aspect or lack thereof though the flap discs I'm using are a bit more forgiving than other grinding and cutting discs. Anyway, this is just a simple method that works for me. I will show another, perhaps more safety conscious method in the future. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glen
It’s more accurate to just eyeball it than use that block of wood.
I am a tradesman and I sharpen all drills on the bench grinder. If I got caught as an apprentice sharpening a drill like this blacksmith is doing I would have gotten a swift kick up the arse by. Real blacksmiths punch a hole through when the part is hot enough from the forge.
I thought I would give some RPM'S to
give long life. To exceed these will
burn cutting lips off:
1/16” - 3/16” 3000 RPM
1/4” - 3/8” 1000 RPM
7/16”- 5/8” 600 RPM
11/16” - 1” 350 RPM
Lubricate drill with oil when cutting steel
1/8” or thicker.
x2malandy
Thanks for the info. and for taking the time to watch, even if I don't follow standard procedure... Glen
Glen GS Tongs I'm going to try your way out next time I have to sharpen some drill's. Enjoyed your vid. I'm 67 years old and learned to hand sharpen drills at 18. There is always ways of learning new things.
A very complicated method to do something very simple. I use a bench grinder or an angle grinder clamped in a vice.
A properly sharpened drill when viewed "end on" will have it's cutting edges straight, if they look hooked the drill is ground at to shallow an angle, if curved back the angle is too steep i.e. pointed. Start by holding the drill to the grinding stone with one cutting edge parallell with the side of the stone, then lightly grind the drill and rotote a few degrees it to create "back" clearance. Repeat on the other cutting edge. Then check that the cutting edges are straight, if not re-adjust the holding angle and re-grind. Hold it up to the light and check also that both cutting edges look to be the same length, if not refrind to correct..Examine a new 10mm or larger drill to observe the points raised above.
Practice an an few old scrap drills and you will find this mathod works a treat. You will need sharp eyesight for drills leas of than 6mm.
Thanks for your detailed description of how you go about sharpening drills. I think the key is understanding how a drill cuts and clear chips. Then, practice and practice some more. And like you say, a good eye is essential coupled with consistency... Glen
Thank you for showing how to do this simple jig. I've been sharpening drill bits successfully, free hand, since I was in my early teens. One tip I can give that will help anyone wanting to drill through thick steel is to first drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit 1/8 to 3/16. Then your large bit will REALLY cut through a LOT faster.
That, or a stepper...which really is using a series of pilot holes in succession.
long, slow, inaccurate way to do it, and poor explanation. much better to use a bench grinder. i thought blacksmiths made holes with drifts
Absolutely true. A bench grinder gives you the ability to make all the angles evenly and because you have both hands on the drill bit you get much better control of making the top point an even angle between the two flutes.
I mainly hot punch holes (drifts are for expanding existing holes). I know this technique is odd and my video quality at this time poor, but it works for me in a pinch when I want to quickly sharpen a drill.
Great Video Sir...I learned a lot...As I am a Automotive Tech, looking for more and more old school ways to save money...There are a lot of idiots on youtube sending negative Comments.....Please excuse them...they do not speak for the "Skilled Worker of Today and Yesterday" I take pride in my work, happy to see your info...Thanks Brother! Big Help, I know what to do now
correct. I welded 2 large wheel nut from a HGV and used them as a gauge for years. the thing nobody states is that if 1 cutting side is longer than the other the drill will actually cut bigger than the drill size, eg a 10mm drill can end up cutting a hole 10.5mm diameter just because it has not been sharpened correctly.
A silly method indeed. Careful sharpening on a fine-grit bench grinder, with plenty of light on the subject, has been doing the job for me for many years.
Also, Harbor Freight (China Freight) offers small-size drill bits in packs of 10-15 for cheap. I keep plenty on hand and thro away the broken/dull ones.
bullshit just use two hex nuts put them together it is the perfect pattern for your drill bit
Hi , I'm Hector from Argentina and want to tell you that with your video is the first time that I can shape the ""small bits."'
Thank you
What about thermal properties and tempering of the material. A angle grinder produces a lot of heat. The one you are using probably turns about 10k rpms. even with a flap disk the heat produced at that speed will destroy the temper of the metal on the thin cutting edge of the bit and cause it dull faster. Bits like cobalt and HSS get there toughness from their hardness and temper. By submitting them to that kind of heat you are damaging a good tool. At the price of good bits you would be best buying or making a slow speed grinder and using a drill fixture. Also a little cutting oil goes a long way. After your first sharpening you tested the bit. All that spinning created more heat damaging your temper even more. Dipping your bit in water when it is hot will harden it but not temper it. this will cause it to become brittle. Only way to sharpen a bit is low speed / low heat. You are honestly better off using a diamond knife sharpener or file. Hitting it with a grinder also doesn't help with the 3-5 degree rake the it needs for structural strength. When you sharpen a bit correctly you should have a nice spiral chip when drilling steel, stainless, aluminum, etc. A little cutting oil and some proper care and a good drill bit should be good for 500-1000 holes in mild steel. Just some things to chew on. Not a bad idea in a pinch, though.
Ronster Irons no
The pressure applied when using an angle grinder (bench grinder, etc.) will have big affect on how hot the drill becomes and at what rate the heat builds up. I am applying very little pressure and do cool the drill in water (not clearly seen in video). I personally prefer to use water - for cooling and as a lubricant. I know proper oil is probably superior as a lubricant but I still like using good old water. Dipping the drill in water will not harden it unless it is at critical temperature (the point where it loses magnetism) though I do admit that adding certain alloys/minerals, as in this cobalt drill, do change this some. The diamond sharpener (or maybe carbide sharpener) is a good idea. Anyway, your main point is a good one - don't overheat as you sharpen or you're doing more harm than good. Honestly, I never meant this video to be the definitive guide to drill sharpening - just show a simple, quick way that has worked for me. Not for everyone, that's for sure. I do appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment in detail. Thanks. Glen
Don’t care what anyone says, I really like your workshop. But seriously, you did take the time to show your method and yet a lot of the nay sayers talk the talk but don’t walk the...hey it’s easy to criticize. Thanks for taking the time for sharing your method.
good to see the safety guard is removed on the grinder
Thanks for the video but please watch it before posting so that you get what you are demostrating in the actual video.....?
Anyone who sharpens a drill bit using this method needs their brain examined. Holding a drill bit in one hand while using an angle grinder in the other? Hahahahaha no thanks.
Whilst I can sharpen a drill on a bench grinder by hand and also have a precision drill sharpener for when I need a perfect grind this is a brilliant way to get a good edge on a drill bit if you are away from your workshop. The use of the block of wood to get a matched angle on both wings is a stroke of genius. Cheers.
Elmer J Fudd, I think a lot of folks would disagree with you on calling my method here a stroke of genius! But I think you understand the idea - there are precision tools that can do this job but for those who don't possess those tools or who are away from their shop, this can be a quick and easy way to make a drill at least passably usable. Once you know how to hand sharpen, consistency is the key and the simple wood block helps me in this regard. On a unrelated note, your handle makes me think of the the line, "I am Elmer J Fudd, millionaire, I own a mansion and a yacht, again..." Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs w
Yikes - please, the unprotected hand swiping across the metal shavings...
And why was the angle grinding wheel not parallel with the wood block? Or did it just appear so?
The flap wheels I use are not exactly parallel with the angle grinder. They have a bit of an angle. I'm planning another go at this in a slightly different way that might please more folks. Thanks for watching. Glen
Drilling into metal with that size drill bit without a pilot hole is lazy and is the main reason your drill bits heat up so much which in turn work hardens the metal and makes it harder to drill. "This drill chuck sucks" Ever heard the expression a bad tradesman always blames his tools? Learn how to drill holes. Starting with a small drill bit and working your way up will give you more accurately placed holes and your bits won't dull as quickly.
unapro3 Is And use cutting oil. Never drill steel dry.
Maybe he's gonna drill a 2" hole and that is his pilot? Pilots are not always required so jog on numpty
very hard way to do this.
sharpened drill bits for over 40 years as a machinist. like reinventing the wheel.
I know most machinists cannot fathom what the heck I'm doing but for my purpose, this method does work. I could've done a better job with my method in the video, that's for sure. Anyway, even though this is not for you (and many others) I still appreciate you watching. Glen
yes easier to by hand with a bench grinder to sharpen the way it has beed done over a century. i se what u r doing too much to remember complicated. I have taught guys with dislexia and they learned faster than i did!
good luck
Glen GS Tongs sir what is drill brand or name you used it in video thanx a lot
The drills I use are Japanese and the brands name is Nachi. Thanks for watching.
If you could redo this video with better lighting and closer focus.
Just one point I would like to add. When yo get to the point where your bit starts to cut through and snag. Turn the material/ object over when possible and cut through from the underside to make a clean hole.
John, Thanks for the good advice. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Glen
Thanks for the information. I enjoy your video much more than these professional factory types. Your information on using the wood block was helpful. This shows a freehand method. Of course viewers can always buy an electric bit sharpener if they prefer.
I don't see how you can get a precise cutting angle with this hand held technic. Also, if for some reason there is a kick back, you will split open your wrist holding the bit.
I might not be able to attain a precise cutting angle but I can definitely bring a dull drill back to life - much the same as someone can use a bench grinder or a sharpening stone and via freehand, resharpen a drill, a blade, a chisel, etc. I admit there are dangers involved and basic safety must always be practiced. You are right that the drill could kick back. But if I were to try to avoid every action that could possibly hurt me, I'd never set foot outside my home and definitely never blacksmith. Anyway, everyone must weigh for himself what is considered to be acceptable risk... Thanks for watching and for commenting. Glen
I can't believe it's never occurred to me to sharpen a drill bit! After all I don't throw my planes or chisels away when they're dull - this is a great video - many thanks!
Bruce, Back in the day, I was the same as you. Just figured when drill bits were dull, I should file them under "G" for garbage or repurpose the steel in some way. I know this method isn't exactly what you (or most anyone, as evidenced by some of the "fine" comments!) would call technically accurate, but with practice (and maybe some adjustments to suit your style of working) it can bring dull drills back to life. Thanks for watching. Glen
the reason your "sharpened" drill didn't cut well is because you did not provide the real relief - look it up in any mechanics handbook that covers sharpening drill bits
I know there's a specific way to sharpen drills, as outlined by those with more experience than me. But there is also more than one way to go about such sharpening. Much the same as there are many methods to sharpen a knife. At the end of the day, I could've done a better job but for my purpose, it worked. Anyway, thanks for watching. Glen
Glen if you worry about the haters you will never do anything I personally enjoy seeing things happening in real time (makes it more real for me) as when they are edited it makes me wonder why things take me so long to do when it happens so quickly in the video thank you and keep on posting
Steve, I know I can't try to be all things to all people. I'm actually having fun responding to most. I never had a video get so much attention... I will do my best to keep my format of showing basically the whole process and I will upload a new video tomorrow that follows this... I appreciate you taking the time to comment and your supportive words. Glen
So where is the blacksmithing?
I thought I would show something related to metalworking but not necessarily blacksmithing. But I will keep the focus of my channel on hot ironwork. Thanks for watching. Glen
Thanks for sharing. Great idea but I wonder about the temper being lost due to excessive heat. Since you didn't answer "Roster Irons" below, I suspect it may be an issue.
Jeff, I did reply to Ronster Irons and explained my opinion regarding that - maybe check again. You're right. It's easy to lose temper with such a technique but I do cool the drill frequently in water (not obvious in video) and apply very light pressure so as to not build up heat too quickly. I realize this method doesn't suit everyone - I've been eaten alive by criticism - and that's fine. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment intelligently. Glen
Lets me lend a tip. Use a pointer and and not your finger. Stop jumping about with the drill bit. Put the drill bit in the vice and point to it. In other words HOLD STILL
WOW, thank you sir , this was a very informative way to do the drill bits for me anyway, I live in the Philippines and they don't have all the drill doctors and other fancy stuff we have in the states, so this method works well for me here ,as I have all the material that I need to do this in my home. REALLY SIR,, A JOB WELL DONE FOR YOUR TRAINING.
I live in the Philippines too and just sharpened my 1/2 inch bit however it will drill wood ok but the angle is off a lot so still not very good on steel.
3 minute video in 17! Some people just like to talk. I like videos that are straight up and to the point rather than those looking to garner advertising revenue with fill.
every video on youtube shows the length of the video before u watch it and u clicked yet here you are
You should try to tighten all 3 chuck holes , it should help you get the bit tight. Good tip for the non machine folks .
great technique, can't believe how many idiots in the comments
The video was so much more dull than the drill bit.
Handyjack
Your drill will cut faster cooler and last longer with cutting oil
No it won't. I can attest to that. I ruined two cobalt drills drilling stainless and using cutting oil. Then, I tried spraying water ever few seconds. Worked like a charm. You have to keep the drills cool. Oil burns off. Water doesn't. Watch. th-cam.com/video/FMzIHl1HMXc/w-d-xo.html
I think it's a very cool way to sharpen bits for very cheap. And I wonder why people feel the need to nit-pick, safety police, throw their2 cents in comment section. he is a grown man who obviously doesn't need your help with how to live and work with his tools. looks to me like he has things under control.
Jarret, Thanks for the support. I've been berated by tons for folks for this video. Some of the (constructive) criticism is justified but a lot of it is nonsense. I know this isn't the definitive drill sharpening technique video but I just wanted to let other see a simple way that works for me. Have a good one. Glen
The first thing I did with my angle grinder was take the guard off. People act like its a table saw or something. I have hands that will survive touching a flap disc. Lol
Jarrett Reece I agree, I have removed the gaurd also. Sometimes put a larger disc than recommended. However make no mistake, if a chunck of disc comes off because you hit a corner with it or what have you, that chunk can remove a finger(s), or wind up inside your body. Be careful.
wow - that is not a sharp drill bit - also WAY too fast with that drill - this is all wrong.
Just simply scoop the drill bit (like scooping ice cream) on a bench grinder - then drill slow for steel and use some oil.
But appreciate you making vids
Glenn, I admit that I didn't get this drill sharp enough in this video. With the camera rolling, I must've had stage fright! But compared to how dull it was, it's cutting like a champ in my eyes. I prefer to use water - to cool and to act as a lubricant. Could I improve on my technique, sure. I think I need to make a sequel since you're not alone in your criticism. Glad you still have some appreciation. Nice name... Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs
no worries - I do like the angled block trick!
It's just that I have been sharpening bits by hand for so long it's second nature, and really easy to do on a belt sander or bench grinder. Cheers and thanks again for making videos!
Drill gauge, pedestal grinder and back to work before you are done drilling your block of wood.
My humble opinion as a Tool and Die Maker of about 40 years, I would never do this, but, hell, if it makes chips, God Bless You! By the way, it helps to relieve the flutes a little, but, that would be very hard to do with an angle grinder. When it comes down to it, if it makes chips, it's doin' it's job!
I appreciate your comment which to me is sensible. The tool (drill) couldn't perform it's job but after some simple (albeit ridiculous to many) sharpening, could at least perform reasonably well. I never intended this video to be the definitive guide to drill sharpening and I can accept criticism, so long as its constructive in some way. Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs
This seems like a really useful video but the poor focus makes it very difficult to understand what he is talking about.
My goodness, I read a lot of the comments below and I feel really sorry for you. You share your experiences and tips with everyone and that's how those keyboard warriors thank you. Please don't forget, that many of us enjoy your videos and are grateful for your efforts. Best regards man. Ps: I checked your website. Those are no tools, those are pieces of art. Beautiful!
Steven K I understand you.
Perhaps some trolls work for companies.
If a bit ain't curling out material in plain old flat stock....give up the technic...it doesn't work. Just freehand the bit on that flap disc and you'll do just fine.
very good information, terrible video, too much repetition. Edit it down to the vest few minutes of video and do voice over for the audio...
Brandon, I've heard the same from others and realize that my filming and editing skills aren't up to par. The voice over is a good idea for sure. I may have another go at this but given the negative comments I've gotten for this video, I'm not too sure... Glad you got something out of it at least. Thanks. Glen
The hardest part of photography and video is editing -- going through and selecting only the best shots or sequences. I'd encourage trying it again, but next time target 3 minutes as the total length and toss out any sequence that doesn't show what you want to show. Do the close ups of the bit tip as separately, carefully composed, and focused photos or video.
For illustrating the freehand work with the grinder, make sure the camera is absolutely level and the lens pointed directly at the top of the wood block and the center of the image and focus is right across the top of the wood block. The camera angle you used makes it look as if the grinder is tilted quite a bit and not level at all.
For myself, I'll probably to work out some sort of clamping to hold the bit in the block so I'd have both hands free for the grinder.
This is actually an excellent idea. Saves time while working on site, and no time to run to the store for a new one. Also better to have a jig than to free hand it on a belt sander.
Great idea. I would get a rpm chart for bit diameter. This should extend the working life of the drill 3 to 5 times. I learned the expansive way in my business I drill steel plate all the time.
Why discredit? Glen is a master blacksmith and moves brilliantly forward without the frills. I sharpen mine on a bench grinder but a wood jig and an angle grinder… I have no problem with. Much respect.
Your better off to learn to hold the drill bit at a correct angle and learn to roll the bit correctly and use the gauges properly and you will become very efficient and good
Hallaylooyerr son
ohh very nice and creative way to sharpen a drill bit.
very simple and without a grinder station...congratulations and thank you for share
Fernando, I admit this way isn't always very accurate and takes some trial and error. But I've had good success with this method. I will eventually upload a video of a slightly more advanced way I go about this. Thanks for watching. Glen
Way to high RPM!
I will slow it down some in a future video. I have a variable speed controller that could work for this purpose. Thanks for watching. Glen
Gives great anatomy of a metal bit but technique when drilling is way too fast for large bits, pneumatic drills are best for big bits in metal. Finish the cutting edge on a 3000 grit wet stone by hand with basic tool oil too.
One of the easiest methods I've seen so far , only I'm confused where exactly do I spot on the relief , would it be at the back end of the cutting tips
THANK YOU BROTHER! MAY JESUS SAVES YOUR SOUL!
I hope so... Thanks. Glen
osenhortodopoderoso TV
Thanks for the video. I would try Less speed. And never go in dry. Helps the life of my bits
Very interesting but why to spend 17 minutes to say something to explain in enough 5 minutes
Roberto, I do admit that I need to sharpen my video editing skills as well... Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen GS Tongs vvvg
Good video. Rather than trial and error, I use a Dr. Drill bit sharpener. No guess work, never lets me down. For the price, it's a great tool!!!
Mike, I tried a Drill Doctor or something similar but didn't have any success. But it might have been the older model I tried. It just seemed good for woodworking drill bits but not metalworking. My technique here won't win any awards but I personally find it effective. Thanks for watching. Glen
Thank you for showing a simple approach to an often annoying DIY job. Its not just about saving money on drill bits, but getting the job done in weekends, where new parts are not always readily available. Big thumbs up :-)
I appreciate your words of support. I've been getting roasted in the comment section for this video! I just wanted to show a quick way I sharpen drills; saving time and money. But I realize this isn't for everyone and that's fine. To each his own. Thanks. Glen
I have an drill bit sharpening bench grinder with all of the nice jigs and what not and I typically just freehand an old 1x42 belt sander and a 400grit belt in my shop. Takes just a few seconds and cuts like new everytime.
Try using some tapping/cutting oil to cool the bit rather than water - I've found that to work wonders at extending the life of the bits and it cuts much faster and cleaner when drilling. Thanks for the vid - I like the jig idea.
Dave, Thanks for your suggestion. I've always preferred water for the simplicity but the proper cutting oil would almost certainly be better. I appreciate you watching. Glen
I have used unrefined corn oil but it`s a bit stinky. 360 deg F. LOL.
this is just wrong. Compare new drill bit and old sharpened with these instuctions.
Thanks for taking the time Glen .
As a rule, for any holes in metal over 5/16", I drill pilot holes, so I thought this was a bad start, but I can see yhe value in this if you don't have a grinder or sharpener.
Gary, Glad you could see some merit to my method here. I do agree that starting by drilling a smaller hole would have been better... Anyway, I just meant this to be a quick and simple way for those (like myself) who don't drill much (as a blacksmith, I normally hot punch holes). Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
How about using some eye protection, remember you are already on your last set!
Dave, I did wear safety goggles though it might not have always been obvious. Nonetheless, your comment is good information. I always tell people that if they don't want to wear safety glasses when blacksmithing, that they should find another craft. Thanks for watching. Glen
The problem with drilling metal drills is that everyone is drilling at a too high speed. The high speed destroys the metal drill.
I'm definitely guilty of drilling at too high of a speed. But I do frequently cool my drill bits... Thanks for watching and commenting.
darie99 so true
too high a speed and not using a cutting oil to cool the bit.
i am guilty of both on occasion.
I wonder what that HS stands for on those round cutting things
A quite correct answer Sir high speed in a nutshell.
I just clicked on this to say a 17 minute video is not a very easy way to sharpen a drill bit
It's correct term is swarf . The mess of metallic shavings from castings from drilling . Some uniform pieces are similar too a metal scourer which can be used to clean up or roughen up surfaces during restoration . So universally the correct term everyone is swarf .
Daniel, Thanks for pointing that out....learn something new everyday. And thanks for watching.
Chips is the correct term. Jog on numpty
bigger the hole slower the speed, also helps if you file a point into where you are talking about relief, on large drills like this I would create i smaller drill at the top so its starts the hole and then the main part of the drill takes over but its a complicated skill, never cool drills with water, they are hardened.
Great method!
Thanks for sharing the instructions.
I see a lot of criticisms in the comments, but if it works for you I don't see what the problem is. No one suggested a better process than you've shown here.
I know this isn't the perfect method for sharpening drills - just a simple way that works for me. I really appreciate your comment. Many folks seem to feel that the means outweighs the end - that regardless if a dull drill was made sharp again, I didn't follow standard procedure... Have a happy holiday season. Glen