Thanks a lot for all the videos demonstrating your UJK system, I have enjoyed doing my carpentry and woodworking projects with current system for a long time, but have been looking for better options to do my projects. Due to all the information you provide I have decided to build my work bench/cutting table in similar way as yours, I like the system, but the main reason is due to all the demonstrations you provide, they help ensure novices like me understand how the system works along with pitfalls to look for before starting the build process. ( Please note I am from Mexico, English is not my native language, so please excuse if I misspelled some words ) . Excellent job with the design of your system , and the support you provide to current and future users with these videos.
Another very educational video! Thanks for that! Many teachers will admire your talent and expertise, which enables you to explain even difficult content in an understandable way! I have disabled young people in the metal sector for over 30 years and I know what I'm talking about!🙂
Peter, first let me say that I used your PARF system years ago, and since then there has never been a more useful addition to my shop, ... thanks. I am also not surprised that your new setup is so accurate, but maybe more accurate than you think. I propose that you do another test and compare it to the first. There should be two sources of cutting angle error, one is the station itself, and the second is random alignment of the work sample. If the second test is identical to the first, then you know the station error exactly. But if it is different, then you can see the small effects of work sample positioning. Thanks again for your brilliant innovations.
Hey Peter, I have been following you on you tube for years now. Please put your atomic clock back in its proper place as your integrity is unmatched. Beautiful new top! Thanks for sharing! Oh yes you are also correct that many of us do not have a CNC machine.
Hi Peter thank you for another interesting video. Your video will help me to build my new mft work station. I would be grateful if you can give a copy of the plan.
In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Great job Peter, love your work and educational service. Quick ask, I thought the off cut was outwards from the cutting edge of the rail, in other wards, the purpose of the rail and the rubber edged was to hold in place the fibers as they are been cut, therefor your keeper cuts will be under the rail. from where you where cutting, to your left? I have the same fence, I just placed it on the other side of the rail, as to use the stop from the cutting edge of the rail to fence stop to get repeatable sizes, am I doing it wrong? Festool seems to follow the same logic I’m using. Cheers!
That would be true for non Festool saws but the TS series of tracksaws has a chip-out protector that can be fitted if needed. I never bother as I do keep my blades sharp. Cheers. Peter
Facinating video! I was just wondering how you are registering the square on these cuts, do you have those silver discs under the track as a stop perhaps???
I have a different approach to calibrating the scale. In my setup, I have Incra but you only need a block of something with a known length. Step 1 - set the stop to 100 + known length. Step 2 - with the block between the stop and your scrap board, make a cut. Step 3 - remove the block and stack the newly cut piece and the rest of the board against the stop. Step 4 - without allowing the board to move, remove the newly cut piece and zero out your stop at 100 against the board. The only way I know of with fewer steps is when you attach a sacrificial piece to the stop and cut it off when set to zero on the scale. But that gets tricky if you are using stops on the other side of the rail the way I do.
Peter, great video. Wondering if you could show us in a next video what your support structure for your MDF top looks like. What height do you have the work surface? It looks like saw horses, but is there some attachment to keep things from moving? Many thanks.
Hi Kevin, In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
@MrJacrider Hi Andrew, I have now shown the trestle support for the tracksaw cutting station in this video: th-cam.com/video/vbBjWpGi6PA/w-d-xo.html Peter
the test at the end is awesome. do you know of any test where you can measure the work piece and find the angular error? lets say I already threw away my off cuts lol
Hello Peter, thank you for producing such informative videos. A perhaps silly question - when you are making tracksaw cuts on your MFT, are you cutting a little way into the table itself?
Hi Peter. Would be interested to know why the work piece came in from the cut side of the rail and not the other under the rail, or was it just for the 4 cut test
I think that the table is symmetrical about the left/right axis but not the fore/aft axis. Trying to remember my chemistry from almost 60 years ago, I think that it is a member of the C2v point group.
I’m curious why you measure to the right of the rail, since you must factor in blade kerf? I have my fence on the left so I can drop my splinter guard on my mark. I have a benchdogsuk fence system. They sell fence dogs and flag stops that work with an aluminum extrusion available here in the US. I don’t have a scale, so just measure and drop the rail on the mark, and use the flag stop for repeat cuts. I may upgrade to scale in the future. Also, I have the Parf system, and really love it, the only product that gets “cheaper” every time you use it :] [getting ready to make a new table top soon]. BTW match fit clamps are great, the clamps fit into dovetail slots that you rout into any wooden surface, and the clamps slide in… much like the festool clamps on the sides of an MFT. But much like the Parf system, the options are endless. A good example of an MFT / matchfit clamp top can be seen on another great British TH-cam channel, Peter Millard of 10 minute workshop.
@@NewBritWorkshop I think I got too verbose and buried my actual question, I was curious why you work to right of the rail as opposed to the "standard" MFT setup of working to the left. But I think I had an aha moment and realized why: is it because you slide your panel under and square it up, and then just slide it along to your stop? I realize that I square the edge and then have to flip my work to utilize my flag stop on the left.
Thank you Brian for another informative video. Though I can help but feel that the way you set up the material on your table makes it far to far away from you and as a result of hyper extending you have a lot less control over the saw. If the saw was to get jammed and jump off of the track you would have a lot less control over it. Just a personal thought as I have had this happen a number of times in my early due to various reasons and one of these occasions I managed to keep control over it resulting in just a large gauge out of the rail not me which I don’t think would have been the case if I was extending across a work bench that far
I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out the final configuration for my workbench top. I am convinced that the Mocrojig dovetail system is the right choice, but ideally it should be paired with your system. Any Ideas?
@@NewBritWorkshop thank you for your reply. The Microjig system basically uses a dovetail groove for horizontal and vertical channels instead of aluminium extrusions. So with this system and your dog hole system any workbench would be ideally set up for future projects.
It may be a good idea to also make sure that the sacrificial piece is identical in thickness as the "work piece", as it may result in an - albeit very slightly - angled cut... But I'm pretty sure Peter thought of that.
Not sure what you mean. My sacrificial stock will probably be a piece of 6 mm MDF or plywood that is larger than the cutting area but with dog holes, where required, for registration and for the dogs needed through the pieces above it. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop it really is not a big deal. Let's assume just for drawing a clearer picture, your sacrificial board would be 30mm in thickness while your work piece 6mm, you would end up with a cut that is angled along its line as the guide rail for the saw will be not planar/parallel (bear with me, English is not my native language) to the top of your workbench/work piece (or the saw blade not perpendicular to the workbench).... but I am worrying about minute details here. It is woodworking, we're not working in micron ranges here. Results as you presented them are brilliant as they are. BTW I myself am more than happy with your parf guide system, which I adopted during its first release. Big thanks for all I have learned from you so far!
Hi Peter, that final figure you give, should it not be 0.09mm over 1 m as I think you used only the last single cut of 0.15 over 415mm instead of 0.15 over (4 x 415mm = 1660mm). That equates to an angle of 90.005 deg which of course is extremely accurate.
Hi Les, Yes, I think that you may be right. The angular error in radians is 0.15 divided by 415x4 which is 0.0000903. This is the figure that should be multiplied by 1000 to generate the distance out of square at 1m. So, it is 0.09 mm at 1 m which could be stated as roughly 0.1 mm over a meter. Cheers. Peter
Bonsoir Peter, Comment faire pour obtenir les plans de vos réalisations que je trouve géniaux ? Je n’arrive pas à trouver votre Email?? Merci pour vos vidéos très intéressantes même en anglais 😉👍
All my plans are available free of charge but in order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Please state which plans you need in your email. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Bonjour Peter, j'ai beau suivre la procédure que vous m'avez transmise, passer l'étape que je ne suis pas un robot, quand je clique sur envoyer, rien ne ce passe. peux être envoyer une réclamation sur YT. ou bien avez vous un autre moyen pour avoir votre E-Mail?? Thierry
Hi Peter, great informative video. I would like a copy of your plan if at all possible but I don’t have a PC to request via email. Sure I saw on a previous video that this could be done by send my email through the comments, is this still the case?
Thanks a lot for all the videos demonstrating your UJK system, I have enjoyed doing my carpentry and woodworking projects with current system for a long time, but have been looking for better options to do my projects. Due to all the information you provide I have decided to build my work bench/cutting table in similar way as yours, I like the system, but the main reason is due to all the demonstrations you provide, they help ensure novices like me understand how the system works along with pitfalls to look for before starting the build process. ( Please note I am from Mexico, English is not my native language, so please excuse if I misspelled some words ) . Excellent job with the design of your system , and the support you provide to current and future users with these videos.
Hi Juan, Your E nglish is excellent and thank you for such a lovely message. Cheers. Peter
Another very educational video! Thanks for that! Many teachers will admire your talent and expertise, which enables you to explain even difficult content in an understandable way! I have disabled young people in the metal sector for over 30 years and I know what I'm talking about!🙂
Gosh, How kind. Many thanks. Peter
Excellent video Peter
Thanks for all your good work and the layout drawing too!
All the best
You are very welcome. Cheers. Peter
Peter please keep these coming. Theyre awesome!! especially practical and demonstrative uses of your Ultmate Table. Thanks so much!
Glad you like them! Cheers. Peter
Absolutely amazing thank you for your skills and your thoughtful videos. Thank you once again.
Hi Shawn, Thank you so much. Cheers. Peter
Peter, first let me say that I used your PARF system years ago, and since then there has never been a more useful addition to my shop, ... thanks. I am also not surprised that your new setup is so accurate, but maybe more accurate than you think. I propose that you do another test and compare it to the first. There should be two sources of cutting angle error, one is the station itself, and the second is random alignment of the work sample. If the second test is identical to the first, then you know the station error exactly. But if it is different, then you can see the small effects of work sample positioning. Thanks again for your brilliant innovations.
That is a brilliant suggestion - I will try it. Cheers. Peter
Hey Peter, I have been following you on you tube for years now. Please put your atomic clock back in its proper place as your integrity is unmatched. Beautiful new top! Thanks for sharing! Oh yes you are also correct that many of us do not have a CNC machine.
Hi Gary, Many thanks. Cheers. Peter
That is incredibly accurate.
Others have done much better. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop That may be so. I would say a number that small is more than good enough. I guarantee it is 2,0 better than mine. Great video.
Nice work Peter, that is plenty accurate.
Hi John, Many thanks. I hope you did not mind me referring to you in the previous video. Good luck with your great channel. Cheers. Peter
Love the atomic clock
Hi Pete, Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter thank you for another interesting video. Your video will help me to build my new mft work station. I would be grateful if you can give a copy of the plan.
In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Great job Peter, love your work and educational service. Quick ask, I thought the off cut was outwards from the cutting edge of the rail, in other wards, the purpose of the rail and the rubber edged was to hold in place the fibers as they are been cut, therefor your keeper cuts will be under the rail. from where you where cutting, to your left? I have the same fence, I just placed it on the other side of the rail, as to use the stop from the cutting edge of the rail to fence stop to get repeatable sizes, am I doing it wrong? Festool seems to follow the same logic I’m using. Cheers!
That would be true for non Festool saws but the TS series of tracksaws has a chip-out protector that can be fitted if needed. I never bother as I do keep my blades sharp. Cheers. Peter
Facinating video! I was just wondering how you are registering the square on these cuts, do you have those silver discs under the track as a stop perhaps???
Hi Danny, Yes, the disks are only about 6 mm thick so will slip under the track almost all the time. Cheers. Peter
I have a different approach to calibrating the scale. In my setup, I have Incra but you only need a block of something with a known length. Step 1 - set the stop to 100 + known length. Step 2 - with the block between the stop and your scrap board, make a cut. Step 3 - remove the block and stack the newly cut piece and the rest of the board against the stop. Step 4 - without allowing the board to move, remove the newly cut piece and zero out your stop at 100 against the board. The only way I know of with fewer steps is when you attach a sacrificial piece to the stop and cut it off when set to zero on the scale. But that gets tricky if you are using stops on the other side of the rail the way I do.
That sounds a very accurate way of doing it. Cheers. Peter
Peter, great video. Wondering if you could show us in a next video what your support structure for your MDF top looks like. What height do you have the work surface? It looks like saw horses, but is there some attachment to keep things from moving? Many thanks.
I will do this. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop
Morning Peter please could you send plans for the Ultimate Tracksaw Cutting Station. Keep the great and helpful videos coming.
Hi Kevin, In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
@MrJacrider Hi Andrew, I have now shown the trestle support for the tracksaw cutting station in this video:
th-cam.com/video/vbBjWpGi6PA/w-d-xo.html
Peter
the test at the end is awesome. do you know of any test where you can measure the work piece and find the angular error? lets say I already threw away my off cuts lol
Yes, measure the diagonals of a square or rectangle. If the sides are at a perfect right angle then both diagonals will be the same. Peter
Hello Peter, thank you for producing such informative videos. A perhaps silly question - when you are making tracksaw cuts on your MFT, are you cutting a little way into the table itself?
Yes, but only 1 or 2 mm. Peter
Hi Peter. Would be interested to know why the work piece came in from the cut side of the rail and not the other under the rail, or was it just for the 4 cut test
I think that the table is symmetrical about the left/right axis but not the fore/aft axis. Trying to remember my chemistry from almost 60 years ago, I think that it is a member of the C2v point group.
Do not worry about any of this - there are enough holes symmetrically placed about the two centre lines to play with. Cheers. Peter
I’m curious why you measure to the right of the rail, since you must factor in blade kerf? I have my fence on the left so I can drop my splinter guard on my mark. I have a benchdogsuk fence system. They sell fence dogs and flag stops that work with an aluminum extrusion available here in the US. I don’t have a scale, so just measure and drop the rail on the mark, and use the flag stop for repeat cuts. I may upgrade to scale in the future. Also, I have the Parf system, and really love it, the only product that gets “cheaper” every time you use it :] [getting ready to make a new table top soon]. BTW match fit clamps are great, the clamps fit into dovetail slots that you rout into any wooden surface, and the clamps slide in… much like the festool clamps on the sides of an MFT. But much like the Parf system, the options are endless. A good example of an MFT / matchfit clamp top can be seen on another great British TH-cam channel, Peter Millard of 10 minute workshop.
My measuring is done on the fence scale so I do not need a pencil mark. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I think I got too verbose and buried my actual question, I was curious why you work to right of the rail as opposed to the "standard" MFT setup of working to the left. But I think I had an aha moment and realized why: is it because you slide your panel under and square it up, and then just slide it along to your stop? I realize that I square the edge and then have to flip my work to utilize my flag stop on the left.
Yes, of course that is a key element which is a good part of my decision to work that way. Cheers. Peter
Thank you Brian for another informative video. Though I can help but feel that the way you set up the material on your table makes it far to far away from you and as a result of hyper extending you have a lot less control over the saw. If the saw was to get jammed and jump off of the track you would have a lot less control over it. Just a personal thought as I have had this happen a number of times in my early due to various reasons and one of these occasions I managed to keep control over it resulting in just a large gauge out of the rail not me which I don’t think would have been the case if I was extending across a work bench that far
Hi Nick, Many thanks for this - good advice. Cheers. Peter
I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out the final configuration for my workbench top. I am convinced that the Mocrojig dovetail system is the right choice, but ideally it should be paired with your system. Any Ideas?
I do not know that system I am afraid. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thank you for your reply. The Microjig system basically uses a dovetail groove for horizontal and vertical channels instead of aluminium extrusions. So with this system and your dog hole system any workbench would be ideally set up for future projects.
Master, teach me.
It may be a good idea to also make sure that the sacrificial piece is identical in thickness as the "work piece", as it may result in an - albeit very slightly - angled cut... But I'm pretty sure Peter thought of that.
Not sure what you mean. My sacrificial stock will probably be a piece of 6 mm MDF or plywood that is larger than the cutting area but with dog holes, where required, for registration and for the dogs needed through the pieces above it. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop it really is not a big deal. Let's assume just for drawing a clearer picture, your sacrificial board would be 30mm in thickness while your work piece 6mm, you would end up with a cut that is angled along its line as the guide rail for the saw will be not planar/parallel (bear with me, English is not my native language) to the top of your workbench/work piece (or the saw blade not perpendicular to the workbench).... but I am worrying about minute details here. It is woodworking, we're not working in micron ranges here. Results as you presented them are brilliant as they are. BTW I myself am more than happy with your parf guide system, which I adopted during its first release.
Big thanks for all I have learned from you so far!
Okay, all will be clearer when I am able to create the first template routing video using the tracksaw cutting station. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, that final figure you give, should it not be 0.09mm over 1 m as I think you used only the last single cut of 0.15 over 415mm instead of 0.15 over (4 x 415mm = 1660mm). That equates to an angle of 90.005 deg which of course is extremely accurate.
Hi Les, Yes, I think that you may be right. The angular error in radians is 0.15 divided by 415x4 which is 0.0000903. This is the figure that should be multiplied by 1000 to generate the distance out of square at 1m. So, it is 0.09 mm at 1 m which could be stated as roughly 0.1 mm over a meter. Cheers. Peter
@SirLesMeyer I have now put a correction in the video description and mentioned you. Many thanks. Peter
Bonsoir Peter,
Comment faire pour obtenir les plans de vos réalisations que je trouve géniaux ?
Je n’arrive pas à trouver votre Email??
Merci pour vos vidéos très intéressantes même en anglais 😉👍
All my plans are available free of charge but in order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main TH-cam page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Please state which plans you need in your email. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop
Bonjour Peter,
j'ai beau suivre la procédure que vous m'avez transmise, passer l'étape que je ne suis pas un robot, quand je clique sur envoyer, rien ne ce passe.
peux être envoyer une réclamation sur YT.
ou bien avez vous un autre moyen pour avoir votre E-Mail?? Thierry
That'll probably be the _penultimate_ tracksaw station 🙂
Hi Neil, Perhaps. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, great informative video. I would like a copy of your plan if at all possible but I don’t have a PC to request via email. Sure I saw on a previous video that this could be done by send my email through the comments, is this still the case?
Hi Philip, Try sending me your email address below - it should be taken out of the public domain and put in my TH-cam "Held for Review" folder. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, could you confirm you have my email address as I don’t appear to have received you plan to date. Many Thanks
154 cuts if you are unlucky and atomic clock 😂