Hi Joe. You mentioned that it is like therapy for you to 'freehand' projects like this. Well, It was also relaxation therapy for me to watch, after a shitty day at my office job. Thank you.
This is a true work of art. Something lost in this trade. Honestly a lot of us started this trade with the idea of making beautiful works of art, only to find no time for personal projects, just parts for other people. Thank you Joe for lighting that spark again.
I gotta thank you sir, not many things in life these days gives me that childlike goofy grin on my face while watching it. This did... Beautiful work. A new subscriber right now. 👍
Lovely work! You're spot on when you said about freehand turning being very theraputic, & not having to worry about specific dimensions. Making something attractive for the hell of it is surely the best reason for owning a lathe!
Not a machinist but have turned some brass and bronze. You have done a really nice job on this barrel. Me need to work on tapering, this has helped ~ thanks. Waiting to see end result on this project. Have a safe day in shop.
Thanks for all your videos! Very helpful as I start out with my new (to me) lathe. I'm practicing the turning on a chunk of Al to determine angle of taper and general technique. Thanks for all the time you take to teach us newbies!
It is just sooooo nice to see you doing small as no other person can. It is always a pleasure to see you on the tools my friend. What a wonderful piece you have for us this fine day. Seems like I can make one of these using my never ending supply's of Gr. 8 bolts eh, LOL. Thanks a bunch Joe. Great way to see the end of this fine day eh.
Thanks. In some of my earlier videos, I show the muzzle end being done. Its a good watch if you haven't seen it. Lots of form tool and blending footage.
Impressed that you could do the turning with such a large overhang and fairly small length of material gripped in the chuck without using a tailstock centre. You were taking fairly light cuts but I think the reason is more to do with the quality of your chuck and overall rigidity of your lathe. Great video.
Great piece ! I thought I was the only one that used a piece of paper like the back side of a piece of cloth backed wet/dry sandpaper as a burnisher. Apparently not eh, LOL. It's a beauty my friend !
Nice job, always enjoy and learn from your videos. Possibly a little more details on the tool you used for the turning? Also, great tip on how to rework a file to have a protected edge.
Beautiful work and prob one of the best videos I think you have made.. I got completely sucked into that and was not really lisening to what you were saying so I will have to watch it again
@@joepie221 I am watching that series also.. there is another TH-cam channel building the same engine right now and its cool to watch how two diferent machinest come at it from two different veiw points but get the same results
Nice job. What is sometimes do is use a MT extension drill socket in the tailstock in order to use a center. Not ideal, but works sometimes when compound is in the way.
I like your project. I look forward to seeing how you go about locating the placement and size of the trunnions which were generally one caliber wide (diameter of bore) and one caliber long at the top surface where it is located at the center of the bore axis. A great book on the subject, with scale drawings is, "Round Shot and Rammers", by Harold L. Peterson
I plan to place my trunion for cosmetic appeal. I know that diameter/bore reference, but I may make mine smaller to allow for comfortably sized other components. A good way to place a trunion is to complete the entire barrel and lay it on a pin. Keep shifting the barrel until the barrel muzzle end lifts. Shift forward a bit to be sure. and drill it there. This won't be a true scale model, but very close to a 24 pounder.
That is Gorgeous Joe, it definately brings out your artistic side. I think i would like to replicate your work too. Would be a great Birthday present for my son. Thank you for sharing Joe I do appreciate your skills, insights and knowledge.
I've noticed those lines on my machine when I have the carriage feed engaged. I've never measured them, but it looks like they are at the same interval as the lead screw pitch. Maybe when the half nut crosses the slot in the lead screw there is a slight hesitation in travel? I've always wanted to make a cannon. Maybe this is the inspiration I need to get to it.
I hate to be "that" guy but my eyes are telling me that the front muzzle section where it meets the first raised elements is several thousandths larger than the beginning of the second section after the raised elements.
I agree. That 1st section had been turned previously and Joe picked up from there for the remaining sections. It looks like he used the final diameter of the 1st section as the beginning diameter of the 2nd, without allowing for the increase over the distance of the 1st raised elements.
I like the method of backing out with the cross slide and jumping the features....but I think the next level would be to calculate the rate of taper and compensate with the cross slide to the appropriate position, and continue the taper on the other side of the feature....that way it's almost like the taper is continuing beneath the feature, instead of basically being flat....
@@joepie221ohhhhh you are jumping the features with the compound....I thought you were stopping the compound advance and jumping with the carriage lol. My thought was you were conserving compound travel by jumping with the carriage
To avoid ridges: Make an adaptor, and turn compound slide with battery powered drill/driver at low speed. Use flex 1/4" extension to minimize influence.
My daughters making a cannon in my workshop in the hope to get some experience before she starts her engineering apprenticeship. The trouble is the brass is too big to fit in the lathe past the chuck and it’s going to be too long to not use a centre. I hope the centre doesn’t get in the way of the compound slide.
Might be a good idea to turn the cannon 180 degrees to what Joe has it and then your compound can be three degrees the opposite direction and get you a little further away from live center. Leave enough meat at the butt end of the cannon so after you're done with the profile you still have something to grab onto with the chuck to drill the barrel. Goodluck
Thats a good idea. Turn a small cylinder on the front of the blank first, smaller then the planned bore. Flip the part and reverse turn the barrel. Then when you bore the hole, the material you were just holding on, goes away. I call that a one way part.
I've made several really large Cannon I mean when I say large I'm talkin 2 and 1/2 ft long stainless I did one Bell brass that was absolutely gorgeous and I did them by making mandrels for them and I was able to polish them on the hurting by walking in the Mandrell into a collet it worked out beautifully she might want to try that
As always, very fine work Joe! Hey speaking of tapers....I have a 1.5" x 16" long brass cylinder that I have to bore 5 precision steps with hard square shoulders which start at 3/4" and steps down to 3/8" along the length inside. How would you do this ? most of my drills are not long enough to get down the length? Do I have to buy a set of gun drills and then matching reamers? I have not seen reamers that long and it sure seems like a good way to break something at that length. I cannot wait for more Cannon work from you!
At that length, extended bottom cutting reamers sound like your only option. Make sure they are bottom cutting. You can make your own extensions if the length is not available. I've done it many times.
Hey Joe, I'd like to see what you do when you are cutting the taper with the compound but you run out of range with the compound. Specifically how you pick up the taper again after having to move the carriage. Thanks
My technique would be 1.back off the cross slide, 2.advance the carriage the distance of the compound stroke, 3. return the compound slide to its start point, 4.begin feeding the compound while advancing the cross slide. 5.Once contact is detected, stop advancing the cross slide and finish with the compound.
Joe I have great respect for you and have learned a lot of tricks but I always file left handed and NEVER reach over the chuck!!!!! This can be ok? on a small lathe but on a larger machine its VERY dangerous...... One thing I do is run the spindle in reverse and hold the file by the tip with 2 fingers, anything bad happens it just takes the file away from you??
Hi Joe, nice work with the cannon. Thanks for posting your videos, they are very instructive and you often have true gems, the one that I’ve found most recently was putting an angle on the end of the parting tool so that the cut off piece has no nib. You mention returning to the same cross slide value when compound taper turning, and stepping over the bands. From what I understand this means the barrel tapers on each side are parallel but not on the same line. If you wanted to have them on the same line is there any way to do this or is the maths too complicated?
By keeping the carriage locked and using the technique described, the taper is continuous beneath the bands. Each time you advance the compound, you have increased the diameter. by having the cross slide return to the same number, the trajectory continues to be the same as well. No deep math necessary.
I have a friend, who has a small TH-cam channel. Occasionally the blue dot appears as if a video has been posted except no new video. Can you tell me what is happening? I know it's not a machining question, I don't know where to do research so I am asking someone who knows more than me. If you can or will help I would greatly appreciate it. Really loved the video about setting compound angles, thanks for the things you teach me. Darrell
Hi Darrell. I'm not familiar with the blue dot, but this new uploader TH-cam has, has given me some grief during uploads a few times. Try switching over to the classic studio, but be sure to answer the question about 'WHY' when you do. It has never failed to solve my issues. Thanks for watching.
Nice Joe, I have a question, I am making a diamond (Machining a Diamond shape with a Spin Indexer) and I'm up to the fly cutting did you use a special grind on the bit, cheers from OZ.
Hi Joe , a real treat for the eyes , thanks , A quick question , would you recomend hss tool similar to that used by you for working on gold wedding rings ,ie groves and bev edges, Cheers
Have you ever used "semi chrome" polish? It comes in tubes or cans. You will get amazing results. MSC has it #77552198. Bigger sizes are available too.
Hi Joe.
You mentioned that it is like therapy for you to 'freehand' projects like this.
Well, It was also relaxation therapy for me to watch, after a shitty day at my office job.
Thank you.
Good to know. Did you like the FF and music overlay? I am trying to improve viewer quality.
This is a true work of art. Something lost in this trade. Honestly a lot of us started this trade with the idea of making beautiful works of art, only to find no time for personal projects, just parts for other people.
Thank you Joe for lighting that spark again.
Beautiful work on the cannon barrel!
Thank you.
I was thinking about this yesterday as I am a fan of the 24 pounders used on the USS Constitution
Beautiful , I could watch brass turning all day, it’s almost therapeutic. Looking forward to the ball turning .
Nice work. Dimensions by eye! Your eyes are better than mine. Reminds me of wandering around the USS Constitution in Boston. So many cannon.
I gotta thank you sir, not many things in life these days gives me that childlike goofy grin on my face while watching it. This did... Beautiful work.
A new subscriber right now. 👍
Thank you. I'll film this series as my shop time allows. Go check out the Trunion strap video. Its part of this build.
Lovely work! You're spot on when you said about freehand turning being very theraputic, & not having to worry about specific dimensions. Making something attractive for the hell of it is surely the best reason for owning a lathe!
I was thinking about making a chess set just for kicks.
@@joepie221 Now that would be major therapy! Can't wait to see it!
Not a machinist but have turned some brass and bronze. You have done a really nice job on this barrel. Me need to work on tapering, this has helped ~ thanks. Waiting to see end result on this project. Have a safe day in shop.
Thanks for the thought. You as well.
Hi Joe, Nice to see you back. Happy new year.
Great job Joe, I can hardly wait to see the grunion process, cheers!
Thanks for all your videos! Very helpful as I start out with my new (to me) lathe. I'm practicing the turning on a chunk of Al to determine angle of taper and general technique. Thanks for all the time you take to teach us newbies!
Glad to help.
It is just sooooo nice to see you doing small as no other person can. It is always a pleasure to see you on the tools my friend. What a wonderful piece you have for us this fine day. Seems like I can make one of these using my never ending supply's of Gr. 8 bolts eh, LOL. Thanks a bunch Joe. Great way to see the end of this fine day eh.
That is just a beautiful lathe work. You sir are a artist.
Thank you very much.
Enjoyed the video, after making hundreds of these I still learn new things from your video's. Can't wait for part 5, LOL, thanks.
Its coming.
A technical advise to a simole solution with therapeutic love and care to the job. Beatiful!
It's good to see you working on the canon again.
This is a second one, the first is still in cue, but will take more time. Thanks for watching.
Hi Joe,
That is some nice looking hand turning.
Thanks. In some of my earlier videos, I show the muzzle end being done. Its a good watch if you haven't seen it. Lots of form tool and blending footage.
Joe that's a nice Canon Caption Black Beard would Like it ah board his Pirate wind jammer 👍😁
Impressed that you could do the turning with such a large overhang and fairly small length of material gripped in the chuck without using a tailstock centre. You were taking fairly light cuts but I think the reason is more to do with the quality of your chuck and overall rigidity of your lathe. Great video.
True. I was aware of a 'Climb over" potential. Light cuts helped for sure.
Awesome free hand brass turning :)))
Great piece ! I thought I was the only one that used a piece of paper like the back side of a piece of cloth backed wet/dry sandpaper as a burnisher. Apparently not eh, LOL. It's a beauty my friend !
Nice job, always enjoy and learn from your videos. Possibly a little more details on the tool you used for the turning? Also, great tip on how to rework a file to have a protected edge.
Watching you turn that is like watching a ballerina,so graceful.
Thank you.
Hi Joe, been waiting for you to get back to this, not disappointed. TFS, G :)
Beautiful work and prob one of the best videos I think you have made.. I got completely sucked into that and was not really lisening to what you were saying so I will have to watch it again
Thanks. I like the way it came out. I'll finish that project after the steam engine series.
@@joepie221 I am watching that series also.. there is another TH-cam channel building the same engine right now and its cool to watch how two diferent machinest come at it from two different veiw points but get the same results
Very nice. Can't wait for the next installment
Very nice Joe. Always enjoy your videos. Gary
Thanks Gary. Its nice to have some fun in the shop once in a while.
The gun barrel is looking good!
Thanks. The ball end really finished nice. Part 3
Nice job. What is sometimes do is use a MT extension drill socket in the tailstock in order to use a center. Not ideal, but works sometimes when compound is in the way.
Beautiful work.
Thanks, I will be doing a cannon pattern soon out of wood so this is beneficial 👌
I like your project. I look forward to seeing how you go about locating the placement and size of the trunnions which were generally one caliber wide (diameter of bore) and one caliber long at the top surface where it is located at the center of the bore axis. A great book on the subject, with scale drawings is, "Round Shot and Rammers", by Harold L. Peterson
I plan to place my trunion for cosmetic appeal. I know that diameter/bore reference, but I may make mine smaller to allow for comfortably sized other components. A good way to place a trunion is to complete the entire barrel and lay it on a pin. Keep shifting the barrel until the barrel muzzle end lifts. Shift forward a bit to be sure. and drill it there. This won't be a true scale model, but very close to a 24 pounder.
Loved this!
That is Gorgeous Joe, it definately brings out your artistic side.
I think i would like to replicate your work too. Would be a great Birthday present for my son.
Thank you for sharing Joe
I do appreciate your skills, insights and knowledge.
I've noticed those lines on my machine when I have the carriage feed engaged. I've never measured them, but it looks like they are at the same interval as the lead screw pitch. Maybe when the half nut crosses the slot in the lead screw there is a slight hesitation in travel?
I've always wanted to make a cannon. Maybe this is the inspiration I need to get to it.
Beautiful job! Beautiful material! Now we're into Clickspring country. ;-)
Looks awesome!
I hate to be "that" guy but my eyes are telling me that the front muzzle section where it meets the first raised elements is several thousandths larger than the beginning of the second section after the raised elements.
fabricator it does look like it but could just be the light
I agree. That 1st section had been turned previously and Joe picked up from there for the remaining sections. It looks like he used the final diameter of the 1st section as the beginning diameter of the 2nd, without allowing for the increase over the distance of the 1st raised elements.
Nice video Joe.
I like the method of backing out with the cross slide and jumping the features....but I think the next level would be to calculate the rate of taper and compensate with the cross slide to the appropriate position, and continue the taper on the other side of the feature....that way it's almost like the taper is continuing beneath the feature, instead of basically being flat....
Thats exactly what is happening. If you turned the raised elements off, there would be no flat ( cylindrical) area on this barrel. Think about it.
@@joepie221ohhhhh you are jumping the features with the compound....I thought you were stopping the compound advance and jumping with the carriage lol. My thought was you were conserving compound travel by jumping with the carriage
To avoid ridges:
Make an adaptor, and turn compound slide with battery powered drill/driver at low speed.
Use flex 1/4" extension to minimize influence.
Thank you for sharing.Beautiful
very nice Joe!
Hi Emma. Thanks for stopping by. I'm posting the ball end machining next. That really wakes this up. I hope ya come back.
Good stuff JP!
My daughters making a cannon in my workshop in the hope to get some experience before she starts her engineering apprenticeship. The trouble is the brass is too big to fit in the lathe past the chuck and it’s going to be too long to not use a centre. I hope the centre doesn’t get in the way of the compound slide.
Might be a good idea to turn the cannon 180 degrees to what Joe has it and then your compound can be three degrees the opposite direction and get you a little further away from live center. Leave enough meat at the butt end of the cannon so after you're done with the profile you still have something to grab onto with the chuck to drill the barrel. Goodluck
Thats a good idea. Turn a small cylinder on the front of the blank first, smaller then the planned bore. Flip the part and reverse turn the barrel. Then when you bore the hole, the material you were just holding on, goes away. I call that a one way part.
Thanks joe and Troy I’ll give your ideas a go and I’ll let you know how I get on.
I've made several really large Cannon I mean when I say large I'm talkin 2 and 1/2 ft long stainless I did one Bell brass that was absolutely gorgeous and I did them by making mandrels for them and I was able to polish them on the hurting by walking in the Mandrell into a collet it worked out beautifully she might want to try that
I did enjoy. Thanks again
As always, very fine work Joe! Hey speaking of tapers....I have a 1.5" x 16" long brass cylinder that I have to bore 5 precision steps with hard square shoulders which start at 3/4" and steps down to 3/8" along the length inside. How would you do this ? most of my drills are not long enough to get down the length? Do I have to buy a set of gun drills and then matching reamers? I have not seen reamers that long and it sure seems like a good way to break something at that length. I cannot wait for more Cannon work from you!
At that length, extended bottom cutting reamers sound like your only option. Make sure they are bottom cutting. You can make your own extensions if the length is not available. I've done it many times.
@@joepie221 Terrific! Thanks for the heads up on the reamers. I was not aware of bottom cutting Type.
Looks great.
Thanks Mike. Still enjoying those coaster you sent.
Glad your using them. I went downstairs & turned a cannon barrel after watching your video !
Hey Joe,
I'd like to see what you do when you are cutting the taper with the compound but you run out of range with the compound. Specifically how you pick up the taper again after having to move the carriage. Thanks
My technique would be
1.back off the cross slide,
2.advance the carriage the distance of the compound stroke,
3. return the compound slide to its start point,
4.begin feeding the compound while advancing the cross slide.
5.Once contact is detected, stop advancing the cross slide and finish with the compound.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks Joe.
very nice, thanks for the video..
It is a little cutie!
For a moment I thought the song you chose for the video was "Bron-Yr-Aur" by Led Zeppelin. It is very close.
Very neat, thanks.
Joe I have great respect for you and have learned a lot of tricks but I always file left handed and NEVER reach over the chuck!!!!!
This can be ok? on a small lathe but on a larger machine its VERY dangerous......
One thing I do is run the spindle in reverse and hold the file by the tip with 2 fingers, anything bad happens it just takes the file away from you??
I draw the line at around a 10" chuck. from there I use tools to deburr and radius parts.
"sorry if I block the camera as I hold this file in a safe way" . Don't worry, we prefer you with all your fingers attached on your hands!!!
Me too. Thanks for the thought.
just one thing on board a ship its a Gun ie 100 |Gun Ship
nice work
You sound just like that actor that play's Rosannes husband, can't remember the name of the t.v. series, I think it's called Rosanne!
Hi Joe, nice work with the cannon. Thanks for posting your videos, they are very instructive and you often have true gems, the one that I’ve found most recently was putting an angle on the end of the parting tool so that the cut off piece has no nib.
You mention returning to the same cross slide value when compound taper turning, and stepping over the bands. From what I understand this means the barrel tapers on each side are parallel but not on the same line. If you wanted to have them on the same line is there any way to do this or is the maths too complicated?
By keeping the carriage locked and using the technique described, the taper is continuous beneath the bands. Each time you advance the compound, you have increased the diameter. by having the cross slide return to the same number, the trajectory continues to be the same as well. No deep math necessary.
What LATHE are you using?
1340 Clausing / Colchester
Nice!
I have a friend, who has a small TH-cam channel. Occasionally the blue dot appears as if a video has been posted except no new video. Can you tell me what is happening? I know it's not a machining question, I don't know where to do research so I am asking someone who knows more than me. If you can or will help I would greatly appreciate it. Really loved the video about setting compound angles, thanks for the things you teach me.
Darrell
Hi Darrell. I'm not familiar with the blue dot, but this new uploader TH-cam has, has given me some grief during uploads a few times. Try switching over to the classic studio, but be sure to answer the question about 'WHY' when you do. It has never failed to solve my issues. Thanks for watching.
I really enjoyed the music, could you point me towards who it is?
It was a copyright free YouYube music download. I'll see if I can track it down.
Its an MP3 track called 'Castleshire' th-cam.com/video/Q9hhtDrekxA/w-d-xo.html
@@joepie221 thanks! I enjoyed the series and format
Great machining as always, but is that you on the guitar as well?
I wish.
Which video shows the barrel being bored?
You got trunnion correct. The ball is called a cascabel.
part 2?
Check my video catalog. Parts 2 and 3 are already posted.
Nice Joe, I have a question, I am making a diamond (Machining a Diamond shape with a Spin Indexer) and I'm up to the fly cutting did you use a special grind on the bit, cheers from OZ.
Mildly aggressive like you would use for aluminum. Small tip radius.
@@joepie221 Thank Joe for the quick reply, keep up the good work.
Seriously?
What type of person thinks this is a thumbs down worthy video?
Hi Joe , a real treat for the eyes , thanks ,
A quick question , would you recomend hss tool similar to that used by you for working on gold wedding rings ,ie groves and bev edges,
Cheers
I personally like HSS for softer metals. I've always had better finishes.
@@joepie221 thank you joe , new to trying a lathe with my ring making , much appreciated 👍
if its to tight unloosen it ??????
Yep.
👍
You never said what polish you were using. I'm guessing Simichrome, although Flitz and Brasso are also options.
I'll show it soon. great stuff. Almost like 000 norton diamond paste, but available over the counter.
Awesome video. Did you show the taper attachment in a different video.
@@chadhanson3431 No taper attachment used. this was all done with the compound.
Have you ever used "semi chrome" polish? It comes in tubes or cans. You will get amazing results. MSC has it #77552198.
Bigger sizes are available too.
I have. It works well. I have a new favorite I use on this project. Stay tuned, the next 2 segments are coming pretty quick.
.....and, then you had to say """ unloosen "" again ! Lol !
Maybe it's just his way of saying tighten. Just my rememory thinking about double negatives. Lol
now I know that I have searched The Machinist Handbook end to end to no avail all these years ! I am now Enlightened here on TH-cam ! Lol !
No Joe Pieczynski video is compete without hearing unloosen being said at least once.
I may make that a standard. I love that word.