Thanks for posting this. I followed your instructions and replaced the neck cork on my son's tenor. I couldn't find a music store that would sell me cork. I finally found the right stuff at an art and craft supplies store. It's 1/16 inch "Hygloss" brand. A package of two 8 1/2 x 11 inch sheets cost less than US$5. It think it's finer than flooring cork, but not as smooth or dense as the cork used by pro repair shops It seems to work fine in this application.
Last time I asked a repairman about pads he told me that is something that takes a lot of experience to float it properly (it looks so easy) but it is apparently very complex without hands on instruction
I don' think this is a good method to follow. A 45 degree chamfer is way too steep to provide good secure overlap. Also even thin cork sheet cannot be bent through 45 degrees without forming a radius (hence gap). Lastly, cutting a regular 45 degree angle with a craft knife is not predictable. Unless you are experienced, the knife is razor sharp, the cork may tear. I would apply cork in 6 stages 1. Fix a small section of cork (say 0.5 mm) along the centreline of the crook using contact adhesive and clamp until completely set (overnight if possible). 2. Chamfer the fixed edge so there is a smooth gradient for overlap (ie less than 30 degrees). 3. Apply contact adhesive to the inner side of remaining exposed cork, the edge of the the chamfer and to the crook.When dry, carefully and firmly wrap the cork up to and over the chamfer. 4. Firmly wrap ptfe tape around the cork and leave for some hours. 5.Cut off excess overlap. 6. Sand down overlap area until rougbly the thickness of cork then sand complete cork with rotating movement regularly checking fit with desired mouthpiece - bear in mind that not all mouthpieces have same internal diameter.
LOL...This was me an hour ago. The Music Store Refused to sell me any Cork and wanted to charge me $100 to replace it. I said F U...I therefore went to Home depot, Got Flooring cork-1/16, Contact Cement, Goof Off and some 220 grit drywall sand sheets. Good to go. [Note]...Even though the Flooring tile isn't the right density, it worked. Also used Crisco for Cork grease.Mage due with what I had on hand. :).
possibly look at the cork sheet for large growing holes and use best section. I use in the UK Thixofix which is what they glue tennis balls with it lasts longer and i have found it best for small cork keywork pads as well as they stay on. a lot of contact glues cannot hack musical instrument pickups etc
Thanks for the tip re steaming the cork! I was reduced to putting paper 'round the cork as I live in a rural area some distance from technicians. The steaming has reviatalised the cork. It's as good as new!
having done me own repairs all me musical life Roll the cork around a boiling kettles steam output (just the cork ) and it will expand. wait until it cools then regrease and slide mouthpiece on job done sod paper shims
I wish that I had watched this before going through the unsuccessful attempt that I made about a year ago. I had a professional do it on my alto. My tenor seems to need a thicker cork. It is very loose fitting when in proper tune. Can I soak it in water or something to make it swell, or will I need to replace it?
You really thought this was a good video!!?? ....... First, remove the old cork carefully, even if it isn't complete it will make a "good enough" template. Second you don't want the angled cut, you will need a butt joint. I challenge anyone to make a neat trim after fitting. He will have a thicker section on the overlap.
When a good portion is still glued to the neck, and a replacement is warranted because of compression, this type of removal is necessary. Also, a butt joint leaves the possibility for an air leak, thus the beveled edge that 99% of all repair techs use. With a sharp razor I can cut Down that high spot if need be, or if you are still concerned, I can cut an opposite bevel on the other side of the new cork so when it gets glued down, they’ll end up perfectly flush, and have a bevel.
@@SaxophoneWhisperer Okay, I'm sorry but i agree. Most professionals are getting away from the overlap.On top of that. Why so rough with the instrument? You shouldn't have to trim the bottom if you do it correctly. Most "Repair Techs" remove the old cork with heat and none of them would use a kitchen scratch pad to take off glue. And the repetitive music was a bit much
Thanks for posting this. I followed your instructions and replaced the neck cork on my son's tenor. I couldn't find a music store that would sell me cork. I finally found the right stuff at an art and craft supplies store. It's 1/16 inch "Hygloss" brand. A package of two 8 1/2 x 11 inch sheets cost less than US$5. It think it's finer than flooring cork, but not as smooth or dense as the cork used by pro repair shops It seems to work fine in this application.
Last time I asked a repairman about pads he told me that is something that takes a lot of experience to float it properly (it looks so easy) but it is apparently very complex without hands on instruction
great video but this music is driving me nuts. lol
I love the song.
Oldest saxologic comment discovered?
You make it look easy! Can't wait to try it on my saxes.
I don' think this is a good method to follow. A 45 degree chamfer is way too steep to provide good secure overlap. Also even thin cork sheet cannot be bent through 45 degrees without forming a radius (hence gap). Lastly, cutting a regular 45 degree angle with a craft knife is not predictable. Unless you are experienced, the knife is razor sharp, the cork may tear.
I would apply cork in 6 stages
1. Fix a small section of cork (say 0.5 mm) along the centreline of the crook using contact adhesive and clamp until completely set (overnight if possible).
2. Chamfer the fixed edge so there is a smooth gradient for overlap (ie less than 30 degrees).
3. Apply contact adhesive to the inner side of remaining exposed cork, the edge of the the chamfer and to the crook.When dry, carefully and firmly wrap the cork up to and over the chamfer.
4. Firmly wrap ptfe tape around the cork and leave for some hours.
5.Cut off excess overlap.
6. Sand down overlap area until rougbly the thickness of cork then sand complete cork with rotating movement regularly checking fit with desired mouthpiece - bear in mind that not all mouthpieces have same internal diameter.
Yes, this is what I do for years, using masking tapet to prevent any scratches in the neck surface.
LOL...This was me an hour ago. The Music Store Refused to sell me any Cork and wanted to charge me $100 to replace it. I said F U...I therefore went to Home depot, Got Flooring cork-1/16, Contact Cement, Goof Off and some 220 grit drywall sand sheets. Good to go. [Note]...Even though the Flooring tile isn't the right density, it worked. Also used Crisco for Cork grease.Mage due with what I had on hand. :).
possibly look at the cork sheet for large growing holes and use best section. I use in the UK Thixofix which is what they glue tennis balls with it lasts longer and i have found it best for small cork keywork pads as well as they stay on. a lot of contact glues cannot hack musical instrument pickups etc
Thanks for the tip re steaming the cork! I was reduced to putting paper 'round the cork as I live in a rural area some distance from technicians. The steaming has reviatalised the cork. It's as good as new!
Thank you! And the music was fine…Mozart…saxes…makes perfect sense to me!
Hammer out the cork a little - so it doesn't crack when you wrap it around the neck?
i believe A&G in Warren, MI is only 15, isn't it? looking for a place to get mine done
having done me own repairs all me musical life Roll the cork around a boiling kettles steam output (just the cork ) and it will expand. wait until it cools then regrease and slide mouthpiece on job done sod paper shims
I wish that I had watched this before going through the unsuccessful attempt that I made about a year ago. I had a professional do it on my alto. My tenor seems to need a thicker cork. It is very loose fitting when in proper tune. Can I soak it in water or something to make it swell, or will I need to replace it?
the contact glue is ALPHA (thixofix) UK its in gel form so easy to work with
use masking tape around bits that should have no glue remove about 5 mins after application ie before glue semi cures
With regards the solvent mentioned at 1:20, are their any that you need to stay clear of incase they attack the laquer? e.g. acetone???
Wow 100.00 to replace a cork!? We charge $25.00 AND we'll sell you the cork for $6.00.
MUSIC BOX , Shelby Twp, MI
wow looks amazing!!!
Do I need a thinner cork for 4c cos I'm using It's original cork when I got The Alto sax but seems to thick
Where did you get the sheet music to this piece? Mozart I think?
i feel bad for asking i usually know these things but what is the name of the piece that is playing during the video
Where do u get the cork from?How much does it cost?
Love it, thank you.
Is it possible that the solvent will remove the lacquer?
madogblue
Measure a lot . Have nothing end up fitting . Trim every edge. Have it overlap anyway and look sloppy
Thanks for the great video but the music uuggh!
It's Mozart "The Little Serenade"
Alexander Vengerov
I played this song in a Wind Ensemble. WHAT THE HECK IS THE NAME?
Only if it’s dried out.
Thank you so much :D
you cant go fast when making an instructional video however.
Tedious. Like watching glue dry! Oh, I WAS watching glue dry!!
45 degree
You really thought this was a good video!!?? ....... First, remove the old cork carefully, even if it isn't complete it will make a "good enough" template. Second you don't want the angled cut, you will need a butt joint. I challenge anyone to make a neat trim after fitting. He will have a thicker section on the overlap.
When a good portion is still glued to the neck, and a replacement is warranted because of compression, this type of removal is necessary. Also, a butt joint leaves the possibility for an air leak, thus the beveled edge that 99% of all repair techs use. With a sharp razor I can cut Down that high spot if need be, or if you are still concerned, I can cut an opposite bevel on the other side of the new cork so when it gets glued down, they’ll end up perfectly flush, and have a bevel.
@@SaxophoneWhisperer Okay, I'm sorry but i agree. Most professionals are getting away from the overlap.On top of that. Why so rough with the instrument? You shouldn't have to trim the bottom if you do it correctly. Most "Repair Techs" remove the old cork with heat and none of them would use a kitchen scratch pad to take off glue. And the repetitive music was a bit much