More hammer forming and metal shaping! Keep this art form alive! The examples of your large complex pieces are fantastic. I'd love to see a time lapse of a big project with details on all the tools and techniques as you encounter different shapes and challenges.
I can't believe how much I like this video you teach very well. I was trying to find something where I can learn to do the bodywork on my 61 Chevy truck with hand tools, this is a start.
Glad to help your journey anyway I can. This technique can get you out of a lot of complex shaping situations. It’s time consuming for just small parts but it works.
Watched 1 video and he said only use steel for forms. I'm glad I found your channel. I don't need to make anything now but the knowledge is good to have. Hope to see more hammer forming. I'll be subscribing. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Joe Atwork who said to use Steel for forms? There is nothing wrong with that but it is by no means the only option. I have done two more hammer Forming videos since this one. Check out more of my stuff to see!
I've done two more Hammer Forming videos since this one, you can check them out here: th-cam.com/video/0GbooPGeM7g/w-d-xo.html And th-cam.com/video/1WO69ygwfmc/w-d-xo.html
I had never watched this process done. I had no idea a few simple tools could do so much (in the right hands). Thanks for the introduction video, well done!
Glad you enjoyed it. The goal of this series was to show exactly that, you can do a lot without needing a lot. I want to show the complex and the "simple" so folks aren't as afraid of trying it out for themselves.
All of the instructional videos I have seen from you are very well done and very useful. I would like to see more of metal working with ordinary hand tools, inexpensive ways of working with metal as not everybody can afford the professional tools.
Thank you. I am always trying to add simple shaping project to the video list. More will be coming eventually but at a certain point I will exhaust them and have to move on to using the equipment too.
Genius thats all i can say. More videos please. Would love a tour video of your shop and projects if you dont mind. Im building a flatfender jeep and looking for inspiration anywhere i can find it
I have a Shop Tour series where I show behind the scenes in various shops and companies. From small one car garages and basement shops to larger scale companies selling products. I believe every shop has the potential to show some unique details that people can learn and get ideas from. As for my own space, there are some reasons that I have avoided that to this point. I will get to it eventually though. Check out the Shop Tour Playlist for inspiration: th-cam.com/play/PLbz6McLd1t0VEOkc4F7F1fLlbr856Ry72.html&feature=share
That sounds like an excellent video topic. I will add it to the list. I did a video explaining what the designs of different body hammers are intended for already: th-cam.com/video/gRhosSyIWLQ/w-d-xo.html But your idea sounds like a good addition to that information.
HI I LOVED WHAT YOU DID WITH THE PLY AND HOW YOU SHAPED THE METAL TO MAKE A BEAD TANK ROLL I AM 78 YEAR OLD CHIPPY AND I AM DOING A 1936 MORRIS 8 AND I NEED TO MAKE THE RUNNING BOARDS OR LONG STEPS EACH SIDE OF THE CAR I HAVE A BEAD ROLLER,BUT NO TANK ROLLS TO FORM THE LONG CORNERS WOULD THIS METHOD SUFFICE. HOPE YOU ARE ABLE TO UNDERSTAND THIS AS THIS PC LARK IS ANOTHER FOREIGN THING ALL NEW TO ME .I DID MY FIRST CAR AT 70 IT KEPT ME OFF THE STREETS FOR 5 YEARS. ALL THE BEST AND THANKS TONY T
It would be a lot of real estate to make them running boards that way, but yes this method could be used to do that. Without seeing the exact setup it is hard for me to say if another way would be better. So that's the best I can offer.
You do nice hand work, I am just adding metal (aluminum) forming into my skills of being a precision machinist, I would like to know how to do this and you are helping me learn here, thank you.
Nice video. I was looking for more auto body repair work hammering instruction, but I really liked your video. I will have to watch more. I do some CNC machining. 6061 is pretty soft so you may be disappointed with the durability if you drop the form or have a mis-hit. If you can find someone local with a CNC lathe you can easily make some of your common forms for diam and radius from 1018 steel. Mild steel is also susceptible to drops and hammer hits. You can get them heat treated for a reasonable cost so you will never need to make them again. If you can find people who need your services you may be able to trade so it is no out of pocket cost for you.
Make since to me for hand forming I was doing this before TH-cam I wish we had it in the 80's 90's to share information back then it was very few of us that were building are own Kustoms. In my area.
I do believe it is important to know the principles behind each way of shaping. Knowing how to use a power hammer is excellent but without knowing what it is really doing its easy to make mistakes. 👍👍
Thanks for sharing. How many videos I have watched where it requires welding. I don't have any equipment to weld. Please, can you show or if you have a video where you can show how you create larger pieces. I just happen to find you, it will help me quite a lot instead of having to figure how to weld and buy equipment. Thank you
Nadia Mubarak I will eventually be doing videos about much larger pieces. Right now I'm trying to focus on smaller basics as it's much easier for me to produce videos about and explain. It is rare I create something that doesn't require some welding though. It's just a fact of metal work. Maybe a fender for a motorcycle or a seat pan for one. Aside from that I generally weld things. It's the only way to seamlessly attach parts together. I'll give it some thought though. Thank you.
Very informative. I wonder, could similar techniques be applied to a square shape? I need to fabricate floor patch panels for my truck and they’re not available anywhere. Solid video!
Casey Ostrander Yes. Not to take anything away from the hippie but there’s a couple other sources I’ve learned from... Not TH-cam but look up “this old tony” for a ‘202-series’ college class. Another different approach is the incredible panel making shown in TH-cams by metalshaper.
Terrific lesson - thank you sir! Would love to see more forming. Maybe in conjunction with welding up a complete piece like a tank. Also leading too pls if you do that ever.
Thank you, I'll definitely be doing more projects like that. Except lead work. I do not believe in it or do it ever. My personal opinions and feelings there.
Interesting about the leading - is it the toxicity? Just looking to learn more. I do a little building and restoring old boats and motors and was wondering if leading would be a viable way to fill a dent in an old metal tank I don't want to pull.
@@motorv8N It isn't the toxicity. Most commercially available "leads" are not as toxic as the old stuff. It is corrosion inhibiting and quality of work. If I overlap a panel I mask off my welds and then primer/paint the area to prevent rust. You cannot do that when leading as the torch burns it away. Also the heating process can create steel that is likelier to rust later on. So if any water intrudes or gets trapped it will rust easier. I cannot remember EVER stripping lead off of an old car and not finding quite a bit of rust underneath. I did a video just recently about "Overlapping vs Butt welding" you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/yjjmlEhT_go/w-d-xo.html My second problem is that in my experience Lead is used as a bandaid for bad work. I very rarely see it used in any other way, even strict restoration work. It is most often folks figuring "I can build up a bunch of lead to fill in these deep dents and blend it out." and for some reason they feel that is better than doing the same thing with body filler. Lead sleds back in the day were built that way because they didn't English Wheel out shapely panels that had the shape they wanted. They cut up and pie pieced together existing panels then paved over them with lead. Not a quick answer but those are my feelings on lead. I'll do a dedicated video someday with examples and a better thought out explanation.
Ah - got it. Thanks so much for this detailed response. I've been watching some leading videos and no one ever talks about the downside that I've seen so far so good on ya. I'll check out that other video on welding joints.
hotrod1ish I have some seriously hard stuff that a woodworker gave me. I use that to make random tools and chisels for shaping. I may have to try it for a hammer form. Glad to hear you are going to give it a go!
Thanks. Maybe do video shaping that form with your router. Simple forming solutions are most rewarding. Good hammer technique explanation also. Keep em coming. Cheers, Cyclefrog
I'll check it out, thanks. I'm just starting my metal fabrication endeavors. Trade a sub and see what my application of hammer forming will be applied to. Thanks
End caps for oil/water tanks can be made far easier by roll forming on a lathe and much more accurate to. But hammer form is all good if that's all you have, keep up the good work.
U rad a f! I totally flip hammer as much as possible to keep my eye and hand coordination and cause ...well.. . We jus do! Appreciate your sharing of knowledge. Gonna peep out yo other vids🤟👍💯
I have a question. I started by making a buck and attempted to hammer 16ga steel over it. A noobie mistake. Clearly, this steel is too thick. I am trying to make patches for the rusted floor of a car. Anyone know if 18, 19, or 20ga will actually work? I can deform the 16ga, but not shape it in detail. Any help?
Unless you are talking floor braces, 16ga isn't common for floor pans. I'd absolutely recommend trying 18, 19, or 20ga. If your floor has larger areas to span between braces, 18ga would be the way to go. If you don't have that far to span, 20ga should be sufficient. 19ga is what I'd say is the most common thickness of material on classic cars, but it is hard to come by usually. I only know of one person who gets it and they have to buy a LOT each time they order it as their steel supplier doesn't stock it normally. I'd love work with it more personally.
Good explanation. Thanks for making the video. For larger pieces such as the center console, do you still use the clamp plate concept and then weld the holes closed?
thank you!!! this gave me an idea. i really want to get into metal shapping. with this process i would be able to make a motorcycle exhaust correct? finding an exhaust tube and welding end caps to seal the tubbing.
Great video!!!! Thanks a lot! But questions: Does it make things easier to score the sheet metal first. I will have 304 stainless sheet (.036") laser cut and I can easily add score marks. Should I add any? If so, where?
I have not. The issue with press forming is the need to make a male and female die fairly precisely to achieve similar results. I've seen it done with great results but usually only for small parts like recessed pieces. Hammer forming can be done on shaped panels also. Doing that on a press would be even more difficult to get right. I will have to demonstrate what I mean about that in the future.
would using a harder wood last longer, or making them out of steel plate. I have a few large steel plates and am going to be hammer forming myself a steel chair top. This video helped m figure out some new skills I didn't know I might have lol.. oh and Mc Hammer once said "Hammer Time" lol
You absolutely could do that. If I were producing numerous pieces off of the same form I'd at the least use a harder wood or make a metal form to work off of.
I believe this was 20ga steel but I don't remember for certain. 22ga is the thinnest steel I've used in Hammer Forming. You could likely go thinner but I have no call to ever so so. Or did you mean Numerically smaller, aka thicker material? In that case the thickest I've done is 16ga. You could do thicker with stronger clamp and forms and a lot of effort.
First time on your page. Very Impressed to say the least. Not that I'm working on cars but this process comes in handy with small projects that I do. Thank for the lesson!!!
Aluminum is much easier. My latest hammer Forming video I formed an entire piece out of aluminum. I did it in short order. I'd venture to say it was close to how long this one steel component took me. Steel takes more time and physical effort but is the same process overall.
Great video! is it possible to hammer form a pot out of stainless steel?- I want to do a personalized canteen. similar to the german ww canteen, but out of stainless steel
If you haven't seen I have done two other hammer forming videos since this one. Both two different shapes involving other techniques. However I will do more in the future. 👍
It could work but it's gonna be tough. You'd have to make a strong aluminum or more likely steel form to hammer the 10ga around. As well as using some bigger hammers. And quite possibly eating up the metal to make it maleable. Not something i would normally recommend but you don't have a ton of choice to move that heavy of metal.
I'm not 100% clear on what you are looking for. However you can check out my third Hammer Forming Video. It may give you some ideas for what you could do. I used that design to hide fuel lines. Wiring would be basically the same idea. I'm going to start a few motorcycle projects on the channel soon. th-cam.com/video/1WO69ygwfmc/w-d-xo.html
HotRodHippie Wire mold isn’t for wiring. It’s a way of developing a three dimensional form. Like 3D CAD wire forming does but tactile and not abstract in context...
Doh, I must have been half asleep when I commented on this. I (and most folks I know) call those a Wire Form or Wire Buck. My mistake. I have plans to do videos on this topic in the new year.
HotRodHippie HotRodHippie I read this as a complex shape development/design question. Wire mold in that case isn’t a raceway for wiring. It’s a way of developing a three dimensional form in sequential stages in three axes instead of by sculpture or virtual reality. Like 3D CAD wire forming and modeling does - but more tactile and not as abstract in context or imagination...
This instruction video is awesome! I was unsure about the properties of metal and am amazed about the "shrinking" effect from hammering! I love to learn things like this and you're a fantastic teacher! Thank you! D Oh yeah, I'm a new subscriber!
Hey great video and thanks. I'm a light fixture designer wanting to shape hexagons/octagons/diamonds etc. Can this mold to shape work or you think I'll need a stretcher/shrinker. Thx
Thiz method might be useful for you. However I would say you will. Need a shrinker stretcher setup. This is a wonderful operation but if you are trying to make pieces over and over again mixing up the steps is probably going to be smart. Hammering every single piece would be tiresome and beat up your hammer forms. And some of the shapes may not turn out as well as they would with a few minutes of shrinker stretcher work.
pro tip: use a heavy workbench or table that's bolted to the floor. When your table is moving with every strike, it's taking away from the energy you're trying to put into the work piece.
Solid point. Even a very hefty table walks around under this guy of force I find. When I get situated in the new shop a new bench for these videos is top priority.
Alonzo Branson I would love to try it, however I don't have access to the equipment to do it. And making my own would take up space I need for other machines I use a lot more. Someday hopefully.
Yes BUT doing so is not recommended. Doing it by hand would be VERY difficult. It would also be very hard to make the piece a uniform and consistent thickness. You are much better off buying the material thickness you need.
If you were producing the same shape over and over again and had a large enough press. Also you'd have to have the ability to accurately machine forms with the proper clearances. To do all that would require big chunks of metal, a lathe or mill, large press (likely 50 ton or higher) and an intimate knowledge of proper die design. Versus hammer forming. Which literally requires. Some plywood and a hammer at the minimum. This demonstration was to show the simplest parts I use this process to create. It doesn't come close to showing the versatility of the operation. To create a press form for every operation that I use this for would take a significant investment of time and money. So yes you could do that, but it's impractical even on small scale commercial applications. I know some manufacturing companies that use this process over pressing small runs of parts.
Absolutely. The hole helps to keep the piece from sliding around and to locate all the pieces together properly. Without the hole you'd just need to make sure you put it in the right spot and clamp the top piece down hard enough. Personally I find welding up the hole easier than not having it if I don't want my finish part to have said hole. For this instance the final piece gets a larger center hole cut in so it just makes sense to keep it.
A good impact resistant composite material would make a good form. I don't know that it would be superior to a wood one, except for maybe a little longer lasting. The expensive would offset that value to me personally. As far as doing this with copper, you absolutely can. Aluminum also work hardens and from time to time you have to anneal it in the middle of working the piece. You would just need to do the same with copper if you found it was getting too hard in the middle of the process. Thank you for subscribing! I have two other Hammer Forming videos already up (three in total) and will be doing more eventually.
@@HotRodHippie I've just seen the UFO speed blister one. Thank you for your quick reply, just quickly, just welded a bit of plate to a car sill for a repair. Obviously I can't get behind it with a dolly, can I gentle tap down the slight curve to match the rest of it. The curve I made needs to be a little more smoother, it's a little more pointy, I was going to build up with filler but the less filler the better. Just got into this stuff, an amazing craft.
hawkdaddy64 it would be doable. The hard part would be the point protruding outward and the crease between the two halves. The crease would be a stretched section and depending how harsh of a crease it is, it souls be very focused stretching. I'd be wary of tearing the metal in there. You'd wNt some type of chisel like a plastic Corking tool to get in there and crisp it up somewhat gently.
You might want to soak your wooden forms with tung oil. It will increase the hardness a LOT. I believe the Chinese used it to fabricate armour at one point, until their enemies found out flaming arrows did a number on the Chinese soldiers. :D But used in a shop, wood soaked in tung oil and allowed to dry COMPLETELY is not dangerous; unless you want to heat treat the metal while it's still on the form. :)
DemonDNF that does sound like s pretty good idea. At least for when I make forms out of something other than MDF. I may give that a try next time I intend to keep a form for a while.
I love your technique, and I think this is exactly what I was looking for! I have one question for you, however. If you had to do a square form (with round corners), how would you do this? First get a rough shape of a cylinder and then fine tune to a square? Or start with a square shape already? Thank you!
Just go right for your finished shape. Reshaping one shape into another is just going to turn into a mess. Depending on your final shape I’d probably make the part in pieces then weld them together but that’s hard to say with just your description.
@@HotRodHippie Thank you for your answer! Let me describe it in a more detailed way: I am trying to form a shower flange. It is a box shape, about 1/2 in to 2/3 in deep shape, smallest being about 2 in in side length, largest being about 2.5 in in side length. Because of it being a square, I am afraid the corners are going to look goofy (where should all that excess material go). I have measured and have determined a gauge 22 will work just fine. Do you think this can be done by creating a square-shaped wood form and using a dolly and hammers? Thank you again!
What's the best method for folding about a 1/16" edge lip on all sides of a rectangular piece of metal where the corners and edges make it look like the entire piece was stamped vs. cut and folded flanges? This would be a piece replicating a factory console insert. The original insert has a raised edge all the way around the entire piece.
If it was me, I’d cut and fold it, then TIG weld the corners up and grind them smooth. That will be light years faster and smoother than any forming operation. The other other option I can think off hand would be actually making a stamp and having it pressed. That is a science all it’s own. Hammer forming small and fine details is difficult. It is doable but tedious and you will absolutely still end up having to weld together some pieces anyway.
I wouldn’t use an aluminium for base for beating steel on it. It will cause oxidation as the combination of steel and aluminium does. As well as using a steel hammer on alu. Because steel is made from iron and carbon, when you beat steel on alu, you will break of carbon into alu and it will oxidate. I do bodywork on cars and for working on alu we use wooden hammers instead. Just something i picked up. Nice video though, i like watching this stuff. Keep beating the metal up !
I get your point. However aluminum has been shaped with steel tooling for generations. I completely understand your point though. However have you ever seen an English wheel with anything but steel wheels (aside from rubber for linear shaping.). Most tool manufacturers recommend dedicated tooling. Namely steel hammers that you designate and only use on aluminum and not steel. As the hammers themselves aren't as likely to transfer material as the previous material you hammered with those hammers will. I largely use "plastic" mallet, leather faced wood slapped, and wood for shaping aluminum. But eventually beas roller dies, English wheel anvils, power hammer dies, and planishing hammer dies will come into the equation. Coachbuilders and aircraft mechanics have done things his way for ages. Not trying to argue with you. I fully support and understand that minimizing cross contamination is a solid course of action. However in the metal shaping world vs body repair, it just isn't feasible in the end. Basically all materials get sanded, thoroughly cleaned, and treated (primer/paint/etc). These aren't fool proof but help. I am glad someone fought this up though. Sooner or later it will be a topic of discussion for a dedicated video I'm sure. Thank you.
HotRodHippie thx for your answer, sorry I’ve waited so long to answer, kind of slipped my mind. It’s a good point about the english wheel and the steel wheels on it. I always wondered if they came in other materials... apparently not :) maybe I’m taking it too far with the cross contamination issues, because of course it’s not the final product and you will sand the material down and primer it and so on. I do think it’s an interesting discussion or at least a topic. And indeed there is a difference between body work on cars and sheet metal working but now a days it’s becoming crazy with all the extra knowledge and education on new cars. So we tend to go over evaluate stuff :) Anyways I’m planning on buying me an english wheel because i fear that the metal work on cars is about to die out, it al becomes plastic. I give it another 10 maybe 15 years and it’s over. But that won’t keep me from building my own metal stuff at home. That’s why i check some you tube vids like the ones you did. Anyway thanks for the answer and keep up the good stuff man !
Stefan Ivens no problem. This is absolutely an interesting discussion to be had. I'll make note of it for future work. Maybe I can confer with some smarter minds than myself and pool some knowledge on the topic. 👍 As far as E-wheels, the only other die materials I've ever seen in use are plastics for non-marring and stretching purposes. However to really move metal it's all about the steel.
Do you use Hammer Forming? Would you like to see me go more in depth with this topic?
@HotRodHippie what gauge steel are you using in this video?
Andre Ladegaillerie this was 20ga steel. Sorry I edited out where I said that for the sake of time. I knew I shouldn't have.
Yes let’s see more in depth hammer forming. Thanks.
Yes do so
HotRodHippie one DIVINE 🔨
More hammer forming and metal shaping! Keep this art form alive! The examples of your large complex pieces are fantastic. I'd love to see a time lapse of a big project with details on all the tools and techniques as you encounter different shapes and challenges.
I can't believe how much I like this video you teach very well. I was trying to find something where I can learn to do the bodywork on my 61 Chevy truck with hand tools, this is a start.
Glad to help your journey anyway I can. This technique can get you out of a lot of complex shaping situations. It’s time consuming for just small parts but it works.
Watched 1 video and he said only use steel for forms. I'm glad I found your channel. I don't need to make anything now but the knowledge is good to have. Hope to see more hammer forming. I'll be subscribing. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Joe Atwork who said to use Steel for forms? There is nothing wrong with that but it is by no means the only option. I have done two more hammer Forming videos since this one. Check out more of my stuff to see!
Fantastic video to get the idea across of what's possible with hammer forming. I'd love to see more hammer forming tutorials.
I've done two more Hammer Forming videos since this one, you can check them out here:
th-cam.com/video/0GbooPGeM7g/w-d-xo.html
And
th-cam.com/video/1WO69ygwfmc/w-d-xo.html
You're explanation of the whole process is spot on and I could actually listen to you , great work
I had never watched this process done. I had no idea a few simple tools could do so much (in the right hands). Thanks for the introduction video, well done!
Glad you enjoyed it. The goal of this series was to show exactly that, you can do a lot without needing a lot. I want to show the complex and the "simple" so folks aren't as afraid of trying it out for themselves.
All of the instructional videos I have seen from you are very well done and very useful. I would like to see more of metal working with ordinary hand tools, inexpensive ways of working with metal as not everybody can afford the professional tools.
Thank you. I am always trying to add simple shaping project to the video list. More will be coming eventually but at a certain point I will exhaust them and have to move on to using the equipment too.
Genius thats all i can say. More videos please. Would love a tour video of your shop and projects if you dont mind. Im building a flatfender jeep and looking for inspiration anywhere i can find it
I have a Shop Tour series where I show behind the scenes in various shops and companies. From small one car garages and basement shops to larger scale companies selling products. I believe every shop has the potential to show some unique details that people can learn and get ideas from.
As for my own space, there are some reasons that I have avoided that to this point. I will get to it eventually though.
Check out the Shop Tour Playlist for inspiration: th-cam.com/play/PLbz6McLd1t0VEOkc4F7F1fLlbr856Ry72.html&feature=share
Perfect sir. Thank you much
An excellent channel. You are gifted indeed, and it's great to get tuition from one so talented.
Thank you, it is greatly appreciated. 👍
Very informative, I would like to learn about the different hammers used (metal vs nylon) & modifications done to different tools used to for forming
That sounds like an excellent video topic. I will add it to the list.
I did a video explaining what the designs of different body hammers are intended for already: th-cam.com/video/gRhosSyIWLQ/w-d-xo.html
But your idea sounds like a good addition to that information.
Excellent narration explaining what you’re doing. This video is awesome!
Shawn Bottom thank you very much!
Thank you. I want to make a few small tanks and this gives me a good start.
Glad to hear it is going to help you 👍👍
Love the hammer 🔨 idea!!!i made one as soon as I got in the garage... thanks bro for awesome tips.. very knowledgeable
Hope the method works out great for you!
This was really helpful for a cover on a door pocket I was trying to figure out how to make, thank you!
Glad to be of help! 👍
HI
I LOVED WHAT YOU DID WITH THE PLY AND HOW YOU SHAPED THE METAL TO MAKE A BEAD TANK ROLL I AM 78 YEAR OLD CHIPPY AND I AM DOING A 1936 MORRIS 8 AND I NEED TO MAKE THE RUNNING BOARDS OR LONG STEPS EACH SIDE OF THE CAR I HAVE A BEAD ROLLER,BUT NO TANK ROLLS TO FORM THE LONG CORNERS WOULD THIS METHOD SUFFICE. HOPE YOU
ARE ABLE TO UNDERSTAND THIS AS THIS PC LARK IS ANOTHER FOREIGN THING ALL NEW TO ME .I DID MY FIRST CAR AT 70 IT KEPT ME OFF THE STREETS FOR 5 YEARS.
ALL THE BEST AND THANKS TONY T
It would be a lot of real estate to make them running boards that way, but yes this method could be used to do that. Without seeing the exact setup it is hard for me to say if another way would be better. So that's the best I can offer.
Nice Video thanks for sharing surprised how simple the process looks to get the piece done. ,
Thanks, this is very useful for copper boiler smithing.
Glad to be any part of your metalworking journey.
Just discovered this channel. It is AWESOME and your explanations are FANTASTIC!!
You do nice hand work, I am just adding metal (aluminum) forming into my skills of being a precision machinist, I would like to know how to do this and you are helping me learn here, thank you.
Active Atom I am glad to hear this helped. I hope my videos continue to do so.
How to form a small metal sphere using only hammers.
I know I'm late, but thanks for a great video!
Nice video. I was looking for more auto body repair work hammering instruction, but I really liked your video. I will have to watch more. I do some CNC machining. 6061 is pretty soft so you may be disappointed with the durability if you drop the form or have a mis-hit. If you can find someone local with a CNC lathe you can easily make some of your common forms for diam and radius from 1018 steel. Mild steel is also susceptible to drops and hammer hits. You can get them heat treated for a reasonable cost so you will never need to make them again. If you can find people who need your services you may be able to trade so it is no out of pocket cost for you.
Great input. Thank you. I have a couple friends with that kind of capability one even heat treats his own stuff.
THANK YOU FOR THEACH THIS AMAZING TECNIC, IT'S REALLY USEFUL IN MY WORKSHOP.
Make since to me for hand forming I was doing this before TH-cam I wish we had it in the 80's 90's to share information back then it was very few of us that were building are own Kustoms. In my area.
This is exactly what I needed! Thanks!
Good video man...learned a lot as this process is new to me. I definitely like to see more hammer forming projects. 👍
Thank you. I've made two more hammer Forming videos since this one. I'm sure there will be more.
My new favourite channel👍
Kyle Reyner thank you very much. I hope it continues to be!
I just found your channel and will be watching more videos. Thanks for the instruction to metal forming. I can use this!
Thank you. I hope to keep on making content folks want to see! Feel free to suggest anything you would like to see.
Great work Hotrod Hippie! I’m going to have to build some custom panels for my VW bus and your vids help.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear it. Hope it goes smooth for you!
YES! Keep going, would like to learn more
Nice job! I can't wait to get out into my shop and try it!
Glad to hear you will give it a go. Practice makes perfect. Or at least better, ha.
I was told by an old boy panel beater, if you can't make the panel with hand tools, you shouldn't buy expensive tools. Nice video.
I do believe it is important to know the principles behind each way of shaping. Knowing how to use a power hammer is excellent but without knowing what it is really doing its easy to make mistakes. 👍👍
Kudos to you sir, fantastic work you are doing! Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
Thank you very much. It is appreciated.
Thanks for sharing. How many videos I have watched where it requires welding. I don't have any equipment to weld. Please, can you show or if you have a video where you can show how you create larger pieces. I just happen to find you, it will help me quite a lot instead of having to figure how to weld and buy equipment. Thank you
Nadia Mubarak I will eventually be doing videos about much larger pieces. Right now I'm trying to focus on smaller basics as it's much easier for me to produce videos about and explain. It is rare I create something that doesn't require some welding though. It's just a fact of metal work. Maybe a fender for a motorcycle or a seat pan for one. Aside from that I generally weld things. It's the only way to seamlessly attach parts together. I'll give it some thought though. Thank you.
Good stuff!👍 I’ve been enjoying your videos.
Very informative. I wonder, could similar techniques be applied to a square shape? I need to fabricate floor patch panels for my truck and they’re not available anywhere. Solid video!
Casey Ostrander
Yes. Not to take anything away from the hippie but there’s a couple other sources I’ve learned from...
Not TH-cam but look up “this old tony” for a ‘202-series’ college class.
Another different approach is the incredible panel making shown in TH-cams by metalshaper.
Excellent video!!
Glad you appreciated it, I am happy to provide content like this. 👍👍
Well done !
And just what i needed .
Thank you !
Like the way you teach ; excellent videos .Thanks!
Thank you very much, it is appreciated. 👍👍
Terrific lesson - thank you sir! Would love to see more forming. Maybe in conjunction with welding up a complete piece like a tank. Also leading too pls if you do that ever.
Thank you, I'll definitely be doing more projects like that. Except lead work. I do not believe in it or do it ever. My personal opinions and feelings there.
Interesting about the leading - is it the toxicity? Just looking to learn more. I do a little building and restoring old boats and motors and was wondering if leading would be a viable way to fill a dent in an old metal tank I don't want to pull.
@@motorv8N It isn't the toxicity. Most commercially available "leads" are not as toxic as the old stuff.
It is corrosion inhibiting and quality of work.
If I overlap a panel I mask off my welds and then primer/paint the area to prevent rust. You cannot do that when leading as the torch burns it away. Also the heating process can create steel that is likelier to rust later on. So if any water intrudes or gets trapped it will rust easier. I cannot remember EVER stripping lead off of an old car and not finding quite a bit of rust underneath. I did a video just recently about "Overlapping vs Butt welding" you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/yjjmlEhT_go/w-d-xo.html
My second problem is that in my experience Lead is used as a bandaid for bad work. I very rarely see it used in any other way, even strict restoration work. It is most often folks figuring "I can build up a bunch of lead to fill in these deep dents and blend it out." and for some reason they feel that is better than doing the same thing with body filler. Lead sleds back in the day were built that way because they didn't English Wheel out shapely panels that had the shape they wanted. They cut up and pie pieced together existing panels then paved over them with lead.
Not a quick answer but those are my feelings on lead. I'll do a dedicated video someday with examples and a better thought out explanation.
Ah - got it. Thanks so much for this detailed response. I've been watching some leading videos and no one ever talks about the downside that I've seen so far so good on ya. I'll check out that other video on welding joints.
Men you are the best. At least to what I need.
Really helpful video.Thanks HRH!
thank you for posting - I expect to use this technique in my hobbys
Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope you find many uses for this technique and it's variants 👍
Keep the wood...Just go harder and treat it... great vid's and keep them coming. They just helped me to decide to hammer out side covers my scooter.
hotrod1ish I have some seriously hard stuff that a woodworker gave me. I use that to make random tools and chisels for shaping. I may have to try it for a hammer form. Glad to hear you are going to give it a go!
Very interesting & a neat idea ! Great video & well explained. Please keep them coming.
thank you, making corners for my speaker build, have some sheet so here i am hahah
Thanks. Maybe do video shaping that form with your router. Simple forming solutions are most rewarding. Good hammer technique explanation also. Keep em coming. Cheers, Cyclefrog
Enjoyed your hammer form vid! Thanks. That's one Snap-on Hammer I don't have.....yet
Boxcar's Garage thank you. My latest video that I just posted this past weekend is all about that hammer actually! 👍
I'll check it out, thanks. I'm just starting my metal fabrication endeavors. Trade a sub and see what my application of hammer forming will be applied to. Thanks
End caps for oil/water tanks can be made far easier by roll forming on a lathe and much more accurate to. But hammer form is all good if that's all you have, keep up the good work.
like to see more on hammer forming...... doing a great job
U rad a f! I totally flip hammer as much as possible to keep my eye and hand coordination and cause ...well.. . We jus do! Appreciate your sharing of knowledge. Gonna peep out yo other vids🤟👍💯
Time+skill+love = awesomeness
It is amazing when you can do when you out your mind to it!
HotRodHippie true man, from a blank sheet comes creation, its what this world seems to have lost
Great explaination and many thanks for sharing. You have just gained another subscriber...
Thank you, glad to have you here! I hope you continue to enjoy my videos.
Me too.. subscribed
I have a question. I started by making a buck and attempted to hammer 16ga steel over it. A noobie mistake. Clearly, this steel is too thick. I am trying to make patches for the rusted floor of a car. Anyone know if 18, 19, or 20ga will actually work? I can deform the 16ga, but not shape it in detail. Any help?
Unless you are talking floor braces, 16ga isn't common for floor pans. I'd absolutely recommend trying 18, 19, or 20ga. If your floor has larger areas to span between braces, 18ga would be the way to go. If you don't have that far to span, 20ga should be sufficient. 19ga is what I'd say is the most common thickness of material on classic cars, but it is hard to come by usually. I only know of one person who gets it and they have to buy a LOT each time they order it as their steel supplier doesn't stock it normally. I'd love work with it more personally.
Good explanation. Thanks for making the video. For larger pieces such as the center console, do you still use the clamp plate concept and then weld the holes closed?
Yes I did exactly that. Use as many guide holes as deemed necessary and weld them up when finished.
Thanks!
thank you!!! this gave me an idea. i really want to get into metal shapping. with this process i would be able to make a motorcycle exhaust correct? finding an exhaust tube and welding end caps to seal the tubbing.
Nice work.
Great video!!!! Thanks a lot! But questions:
Does it make things easier to score the sheet metal first.
I will have 304 stainless sheet (.036") laser cut and I can easily add score marks. Should I add any? If so, where?
Really informative video
Have you ever tried hydro forming with 10 ton press. It would be much faster and more complex shapes
I have not. The issue with press forming is the need to make a male and female die fairly precisely to achieve similar results. I've seen it done with great results but usually only for small parts like recessed pieces.
Hammer forming can be done on shaped panels also. Doing that on a press would be even more difficult to get right. I will have to demonstrate what I mean about that in the future.
what type and thickness of aluminum do you use for making items like the AC vents?
One tip , use a better sturdier table so all your hammerblows have effect..
very cool video
Thank you very much
would using a harder wood last longer, or making them out of steel plate. I have a few large steel plates and am going to be hammer forming myself a steel chair top. This video helped m figure out some new skills I didn't know I might have lol.. oh and Mc Hammer once said "Hammer Time" lol
You absolutely could do that. If I were producing numerous pieces off of the same form I'd at the least use a harder wood or make a metal form to work off of.
I would like to know gauge of metal you were using.. and what would be the lowest you could bend/form in this way..
I believe this was 20ga steel but I don't remember for certain. 22ga is the thinnest steel I've used in Hammer Forming. You could likely go thinner but I have no call to ever so so. Or did you mean Numerically smaller, aka thicker material? In that case the thickest I've done is 16ga. You could do thicker with stronger clamp and forms and a lot of effort.
Awesome video. Live that hammer, preety cool.
First time on your page. Very Impressed to say the least. Not that I'm working on cars but this process comes in handy with small projects that I do. Thank for the lesson!!!
Glad to hear it. You can do a lot with these hands on techniques. Thanks for commenting.
really well explained
Thank you!
Hey Alan, how much differences is there in hammer forming steel from aluminum. Great videos
Aluminum is much easier. My latest hammer Forming video I formed an entire piece out of aluminum. I did it in short order. I'd venture to say it was close to how long this one steel component took me. Steel takes more time and physical effort but is the same process overall.
I enjoyed this video.
Aaron Dalton thank you very much. Glad to hear it. I just did a second video about hammer forming and have some more coming.
Great video! is it possible to hammer form a pot out of stainless steel?- I want to do a personalized canteen. similar to the german ww canteen, but out of stainless steel
I would like to see more videos on making other shapes and sizes.
If you haven't seen I have done two other hammer forming videos since this one. Both two different shapes involving other techniques. However I will do more in the future. 👍
Top stuff! Thanks.
Thank you!
What would you suggest for 10 gauge steel? Would this work, or would different tools be required?
It could work but it's gonna be tough. You'd have to make a strong aluminum or more likely steel form to hammer the 10ga around. As well as using some bigger hammers. And quite possibly eating up the metal to make it maleable. Not something i would normally recommend but you don't have a ton of choice to move that heavy of metal.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the insight. Enjoyed the video.
Very nice
Thank you 👍👍
Brilliant well explained
Thank you
You're video was very informative. What gauge of sheet metal do you normally use in your creations. I want to do some metal forming.
Bricktop1253 it depends on the vehicle I'm working with or what I'm creating. 18ga and 20ga as he most common sizes I work with though.
hello there i am making a custom honda goldwing and i have got to form around a wire mold how can you help never done anything like this before
I'm not 100% clear on what you are looking for. However you can check out my third Hammer Forming Video. It may give you some ideas for what you could do. I used that design to hide fuel lines. Wiring would be basically the same idea. I'm going to start a few motorcycle projects on the channel soon. th-cam.com/video/1WO69ygwfmc/w-d-xo.html
HotRodHippie
Wire mold isn’t for wiring. It’s a way of developing a three dimensional form. Like 3D CAD wire forming does but tactile and not abstract in context...
Doh, I must have been half asleep when I commented on this. I (and most folks I know) call those a Wire Form or Wire Buck. My mistake. I have plans to do videos on this topic in the new year.
HotRodHippie
HotRodHippie
I read this as a complex shape development/design question. Wire mold in that case isn’t a raceway for wiring. It’s a way of developing a three dimensional form in sequential stages in three axes instead of by sculpture or virtual reality. Like 3D CAD wire forming and modeling does - but more tactile and not as abstract in context or imagination...
I’ve jst started building bikes, as a hobby n extra cash...and you videos are going to be golden for me 👍thx for taking the time to share your skills.
Glad to hear it and you are welcome. Thank you 👍
This instruction video is awesome! I was unsure about the properties of metal and am amazed about the "shrinking" effect from hammering! I love to learn things like this and you're a fantastic teacher! Thank you! D Oh yeah, I'm a new subscriber!
Hey great video and thanks. I'm a light fixture designer wanting to shape hexagons/octagons/diamonds etc. Can this mold to shape work or you think I'll need a stretcher/shrinker. Thx
Thiz method might be useful for you. However I would say you will. Need a shrinker stretcher setup. This is a wonderful operation but if you are trying to make pieces over and over again mixing up the steps is probably going to be smart. Hammering every single piece would be tiresome and beat up your hammer forms. And some of the shapes may not turn out as well as they would with a few minutes of shrinker stretcher work.
Thanks for the advice! looking forward to the next video.
pro tip: use a heavy workbench or table that's bolted to the floor. When your table is moving with every strike, it's taking away from the energy you're trying to put into the work piece.
Solid point. Even a very hefty table walks around under this guy of force I find. When I get situated in the new shop a new bench for these videos is top priority.
Dude! Awesome video!! That center console is badass as well!!
Solid info. Have you ever considered metal spinning for some circular projects?
Alonzo Branson I would love to try it, however I don't have access to the equipment to do it. And making my own would take up space I need for other machines I use a lot more. Someday hopefully.
I did a canteen cup lid out of stainless basically like that
Thx,very helpful video
Really usefull video, like hammer forming videos
Is it possible to hammer a 3mm thick metal plate to 1-2mm?
Yes BUT doing so is not recommended. Doing it by hand would be VERY difficult. It would also be very hard to make the piece a uniform and consistent thickness. You are much better off buying the material thickness you need.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to make a tool/dye that can be used in a manual press to make several endcaps?
If you were producing the same shape over and over again and had a large enough press. Also you'd have to have the ability to accurately machine forms with the proper clearances. To do all that would require big chunks of metal, a lathe or mill, large press (likely 50 ton or higher) and an intimate knowledge of proper die design.
Versus hammer forming. Which literally requires. Some plywood and a hammer at the minimum.
This demonstration was to show the simplest parts I use this process to create. It doesn't come close to showing the versatility of the operation. To create a press form for every operation that I use this for would take a significant investment of time and money.
So yes you could do that, but it's impractical even on small scale commercial applications. I know some manufacturing companies that use this process over pressing small runs of parts.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for the response and explanation. Appreciate it.
Is it possible to make something without putting a hole in the middle of it?
Absolutely. The hole helps to keep the piece from sliding around and to locate all the pieces together properly. Without the hole you'd just need to make sure you put it in the right spot and clamp the top piece down hard enough.
Personally I find welding up the hole easier than not having it if I don't want my finish part to have said hole. For this instance the final piece gets a larger center hole cut in so it just makes sense to keep it.
HotRodHippie okay thanks for the helpful info! Trying to replace some old tin toy parts
Amazing I'm subbed. How about making forms out of nylon. Can you do this with copper as it work hardens. I would like to see more of this dark magic.
A good impact resistant composite material would make a good form. I don't know that it would be superior to a wood one, except for maybe a little longer lasting. The expensive would offset that value to me personally.
As far as doing this with copper, you absolutely can. Aluminum also work hardens and from time to time you have to anneal it in the middle of working the piece. You would just need to do the same with copper if you found it was getting too hard in the middle of the process.
Thank you for subscribing! I have two other Hammer Forming videos already up (three in total) and will be doing more eventually.
@@HotRodHippie I've just seen the UFO speed blister one. Thank you for your quick reply, just quickly, just welded a bit of plate to a car sill for a repair. Obviously I can't get behind it with a dolly, can I gentle tap down the slight curve to match the rest of it. The curve I made needs to be a little more smoother, it's a little more pointy, I was going to build up with filler but the less filler the better. Just got into this stuff, an amazing craft.
Would it be too difficult to create metal heart with round over edges?
hawkdaddy64 it would be doable. The hard part would be the point protruding outward and the crease between the two halves. The crease would be a stretched section and depending how harsh of a crease it is, it souls be very focused stretching. I'd be wary of tearing the metal in there. You'd wNt some type of chisel like a plastic Corking tool to get in there and crisp it up somewhat gently.
You might want to soak your wooden forms with tung oil. It will increase the hardness a LOT. I believe the Chinese used it to fabricate armour at one point, until their enemies found out flaming arrows did a number on the Chinese soldiers. :D
But used in a shop, wood soaked in tung oil and allowed to dry COMPLETELY is not dangerous; unless you want to heat treat the metal while it's still on the form. :)
DemonDNF that does sound like s pretty good idea. At least for when I make forms out of something other than MDF. I may give that a try next time I intend to keep a form for a while.
DemonDNF m
I love your technique, and I think this is exactly what I was looking for!
I have one question for you, however. If you had to do a square form (with round corners), how would you do this? First get a rough shape of a cylinder and then fine tune to a square? Or start with a square shape already?
Thank you!
Just go right for your finished shape. Reshaping one shape into another is just going to turn into a mess. Depending on your final shape I’d probably make the part in pieces then weld them together but that’s hard to say with just your description.
@@HotRodHippie Thank you for your answer!
Let me describe it in a more detailed way: I am trying to form a shower flange. It is a box shape, about 1/2 in to 2/3 in deep shape, smallest being about 2 in in side length, largest being about 2.5 in in side length. Because of it being a square, I am afraid the corners are going to look goofy (where should all that excess material go). I have measured and have determined a gauge 22 will work just fine.
Do you think this can be done by creating a square-shaped wood form and using a dolly and hammers?
Thank you again!
What's the best method for folding about a 1/16" edge lip on all sides of a rectangular piece of metal where the corners and edges make it look like the entire piece was stamped vs. cut and folded flanges? This would be a piece replicating a factory console insert. The original insert has a raised edge all the way around the entire piece.
If it was me, I’d cut and fold it, then TIG weld the corners up and grind them smooth. That will be light years faster and smoother than any forming operation. The other other option I can think off hand would be actually making a stamp and having it pressed. That is a science all it’s own. Hammer forming small and fine details is difficult. It is doable but tedious and you will absolutely still end up having to weld together some pieces anyway.
@@HotRodHippie thanks man. definitely seems like the way to go
Awesome content.. 😁
NickMode Projects thank you very much
you are true master 👍👍👍👍
Pekka Hallikainen well that is greatly appreciated. Thank you
I need to do the top of the wings on mgb. The beads are rusty so I'm getting rid.
I wouldn’t use an aluminium for base for beating steel on it. It will cause oxidation as the combination of steel and aluminium does. As well as using a steel hammer on alu. Because steel is made from iron and carbon, when you beat steel on alu, you will break of carbon into alu and it will oxidate. I do bodywork on cars and for working on alu we use wooden hammers instead. Just something i picked up. Nice video though, i like watching this stuff. Keep beating the metal up !
I get your point. However aluminum has been shaped with steel tooling for generations. I completely understand your point though. However have you ever seen an English wheel with anything but steel wheels (aside from rubber for linear shaping.). Most tool manufacturers recommend dedicated tooling. Namely steel hammers that you designate and only use on aluminum and not steel. As the hammers themselves aren't as likely to transfer material as the previous material you hammered with those hammers will.
I largely use "plastic" mallet, leather faced wood slapped, and wood for shaping aluminum. But eventually beas roller dies, English wheel anvils, power hammer dies, and planishing hammer dies will come into the equation. Coachbuilders and aircraft mechanics have done things his way for ages.
Not trying to argue with you. I fully support and understand that minimizing cross contamination is a solid course of action. However in the metal shaping world vs body repair, it just isn't feasible in the end.
Basically all materials get sanded, thoroughly cleaned, and treated (primer/paint/etc). These aren't fool proof but help.
I am glad someone fought this up though. Sooner or later it will be a topic of discussion for a dedicated video I'm sure. Thank you.
HotRodHippie thx for your answer, sorry I’ve waited so long to answer, kind of slipped my mind. It’s a good point about the english wheel and the steel wheels on it. I always wondered if they came in other materials... apparently not :) maybe I’m taking it too far with the cross contamination issues, because of course it’s not the final product and you will sand the material down and primer it and so on.
I do think it’s an interesting discussion or at least a topic. And indeed there is a difference between body work on cars and sheet metal working but now a days it’s becoming crazy with all the extra knowledge and education on new cars. So we tend to go over evaluate stuff :)
Anyways I’m planning on buying me an english wheel because i fear that the metal work on cars is about to die out, it al becomes plastic. I give it another 10 maybe 15 years and it’s over. But that won’t keep me from building my own metal stuff at home. That’s why i check some you tube vids like the ones you did.
Anyway thanks for the answer and keep up the good stuff man !
Stefan Ivens no problem. This is absolutely an interesting discussion to be had. I'll make note of it for future work. Maybe I can confer with some smarter minds than myself and pool some knowledge on the topic. 👍
As far as E-wheels, the only other die materials I've ever seen in use are plastics for non-marring and stretching purposes. However to really move metal it's all about the steel.
Good job