Thanks for the video !!! I own a 2012 Mustang I ordered LED bulbs, Sand paper, buffing compound. Im sick of being blinded by trucks and BMWs at night. I followed your steps to a T. Im amazed how well it turned out. I cant wait to blind people for all the times ive been while driving .HaHa Thanks again
I normally start from 600, 800, 1500 then polish it with compond paste to get that factory shinny look before applying lens clear spray can, it comes out brand new.
Have you tried the Trizact 3000 after p800 ? I did one Honda and then polished with 3M orange pad and a Griot's 3" orange pad using Chem guys headlight restore and or 3D headlight restore. Trying on a 2nd car now and may need another Trizact disc
No, the clear coat MUST be designed for headlights otherwise you can cause more headaches, and damage to the lens. The NextGen spray I'm using has filling properties, whereas others do not.
Your Nextgen spray must be so much superior then Meguiars spray. I did a Honda accord today started with 400 then 600 then 800 and sprayed and it looked awful. I could see all the scratches and it was hazy. The other light I ended up doing 400,600,800,3000 then polish then I had to spray it twice and it came out great but look at all the extra work I had to do.
Hi Tom! I'm sorry to hear it didnt come out. I don't know the filling properties for the Meguiars Spray. I would stick to their process of polished afterwards to ensure you won't have any issues. You should consider recording a restoration and posting it! I'd love to see the process.
Meguairs has no filler and cannot be applied in this way or like 2k clear... You need to sand and polish to a smooth surface then apply. You’ve mentioned in the past a few times you watch the headlight pro and you see how it’s applied every time.. not sure why you’re trying to apply it after 800 grit etc.
@@MichaelBrianInc your right I tried to cut back on my steps and spray after 800 but it came out awful. I thought maybe I could do it like Brad but his spray must have fillers.
The inspection step. Anytime someone is doing a restoration its so important do inspect the lens. But its the condition of the oxidation. There's light haze/oxidation, then theres severe oxidation. Severe oxidation is the stuff you can feel when running your fingers over it. For example 0:33 seconds is a prime example. Pause it at 33 or 34 seconds and you can see where my thumb is, the difference between the 2 different severities of oxidation. This is oxidation that is penetrating deeper into the original clear coat. Yes, It would come off easily with the 600, however, I want to ensure I'm addressing any scratches that might be a little deeper, so to be safe, I start with the 400.
Oh yeah, after market housings are horrible, (mobile aquariums) and new oem are super expensive. Best to keep the originals for as long as you can. For some reason CR-V's headlight housing's clear coat and plastic itself fogs out pretty quickly. I'm getting ready to do my daily driver. I don't know how much work I'll put into it. Probably see where 800-2500 and the buffer gets me real quick. If I'm not happy I'll take them off and do them on the bench. And then decide if I'll LaminX them or spray paint them. But for sure I won't replace them with eBay China stuff. And yeah, for me most plastic headlight housing have to be looked every 3-5 years.........
Agreed! The jobs we get calls for that have aftermarket headlights always oxidize much faster than the OEM. We have single car kits on our site if you want to safe some time and money btw!
Not a fan. Wipe have terrible consistency when it comes to application. The part where you start will have much more product on it than where you stop. This is why applying a clear coat is best.
Boy, you and the headlight restoration pro are miles apart when it comes to your philosophy other than the fact that both of you stress don’t use 2K clear lol How does one pick the best strategy. Your method definitely seems easier, and much more profitable because the supplies needed are very few. My only question is, how did you go about developing your own clearcoat? Having a good clearcoat makes a break the whole headlight restoration. The reason I quit the business back in 2012 is because I couldn’t find good product that would hold up in the Florida sun.
Yes, his process is great, and I actually started out doing the same process, but it's an old, outdated process. Idk if he's scaling, and quite frankly it is none of my business, but it's not an efficient method from a business standpoint simply because it takes way too long, and isn't cost-effective after factoring in all the material. I didn't develop the clear coat, I did a lot of research to find a manufacturer that develops clear coat that's specifically designed for polycarbonate. I've been operating my business, and using this process since 2019, and best part is that I'm also in Florida :)
@@StartRestoringHeadlights I’m going to give your method and spray a try. See which I like better. Because yours definitely allows for one person to scale up faster.!
I don't like this method at all. Anything that relies on the clearcoat to cover up scratches is a gimmick. Use 500,800, then 3000 trizac pad to wet sand, then polish with a real plastic polish to crystal clarity, then use a maguires headlight sealer as a final step to protect an already clear surface. This might look acceptable on a video, but the amount of clarity you're missing out on, which will directly translate into additional night visibility is massive. This will not come close to the peak performance of a real restoration.
Hi Bob, I was wondering the same thing, I was writing a comment about how often I needed to refill mine, and am actively looking for some new bottles. Definitely did not delete. What was the brand you recommended again? Please link it
@@bobsgarageFL Not bad, especially for 3 dollars! I can't find any of them in more than 32 oz. I currently keep 5 full ones, and run out by the end of the day, so I have to refill every morning.
Yess Wet sanding... By Hand !.... is the best method It's easy , quck and Controlable. Dry sanding and using a power drill is Simply Lazy production work. nonsense,
Thank you! Honestly, powertools are overkill when it comes to sanding headlights. If you're polishing, obviously you need it, but the majority of vehicles can be done in the amount of time it takes most to tape up for prep.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video !!! I own a 2012 Mustang I ordered LED bulbs, Sand paper, buffing compound. Im sick of being blinded by trucks and BMWs at night. I followed your steps to a T. Im amazed how well it turned out. I cant wait to blind people for all the times ive been while driving .HaHa Thanks again
Ha I'm glad we could help! Hah, don't blind them completely!
Two questions for you.
1) How many coates do you spray the he headlights?
2) How long does this method last for?
Just 1, thick even coat, can last between 3-5 years, just depends on how well you apply it, and how well the vehicle is taken care of.
I started mine earlier.. didn't finish but used a 600 grit and a 1,000 grit..only sandpaper i got.. hopefully it works
Noice!
It’s nice to see there are others out here Making Headlights Great Again :)
We're an elite core! lol
I normally start from 600, 800, 1500 then polish it with compond paste to get that factory shinny look before applying lens clear spray can, it comes out brand new.
Nice!
Have you tried the Trizact 3000 after p800 ? I did one Honda and then polished with 3M orange pad and a Griot's 3" orange pad using Chem guys headlight restore and or 3D headlight restore. Trying on a 2nd car now and may need another Trizact disc
Hi can i use any clear coat spray, or is there particular type.
No, the clear coat MUST be designed for headlights otherwise you can cause more headaches, and damage to the lens. The NextGen spray I'm using has filling properties, whereas others do not.
Great video ! Thanks man !
Once is all thats needed
Your Nextgen spray must be so much superior then Meguiars spray. I did a Honda accord today started with 400 then 600 then 800 and sprayed and it looked awful. I could see all the scratches and it was hazy. The other light I ended up doing 400,600,800,3000 then polish then I had to spray it twice and it came out great but look at all the extra work I had to do.
Hi Tom! I'm sorry to hear it didnt come out. I don't know the filling properties for the Meguiars Spray. I would stick to their process of polished afterwards to ensure you won't have any issues. You should consider recording a restoration and posting it! I'd love to see the process.
Meguairs has no filler and cannot be applied in this way or like 2k clear... You need to sand and polish to a smooth surface then apply.
You’ve mentioned in the past a few times you watch the headlight pro and you see how it’s applied every time.. not sure why you’re trying to apply it after 800 grit etc.
@@MichaelBrianInc your right I tried to cut back on my steps and spray after 800 but it came out awful. I thought maybe I could do it like Brad but his spray must have fillers.
@@grandmastert01 Nothing wrong with experimenting Tom, as long as its fixed if there are any issues :)
@@StartRestoringHeadlights do You use meguiars coating?
Hi Brad what determines for you when to start with 400 or 600 sandpaper
The inspection step. Anytime someone is doing a restoration its so important do inspect the lens. But its the condition of the oxidation. There's light haze/oxidation, then theres severe oxidation. Severe oxidation is the stuff you can feel when running your fingers over it. For example 0:33 seconds is a prime example. Pause it at 33 or 34 seconds and you can see where my thumb is, the difference between the 2 different severities of oxidation. This is oxidation that is penetrating deeper into the original clear coat. Yes, It would come off easily with the 600, however, I want to ensure I'm addressing any scratches that might be a little deeper, so to be safe, I start with the 400.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights ok good to know
Oh yeah, after market housings are horrible, (mobile aquariums) and new oem are super expensive. Best to keep the originals for as long as you can. For some reason CR-V's headlight housing's clear coat and plastic itself fogs out pretty quickly. I'm getting ready to do my daily driver. I don't know how much work I'll put into it. Probably see where 800-2500 and the buffer gets me real quick. If I'm not happy I'll take them off and do them on the bench. And then decide if I'll LaminX them or spray paint them. But for sure I won't replace them with eBay China stuff. And yeah, for me most plastic headlight housing have to be looked every 3-5 years.........
Agreed! The jobs we get calls for that have aftermarket headlights always oxidize much faster than the OEM. We have single car kits on our site if you want to safe some time and money btw!
What are your thoughts on those kits with clear coat sheets like the 3m kits?
Not a fan. Wipe have terrible consistency when it comes to application. The part where you start will have much more product on it than where you stop. This is why applying a clear coat is best.
Does your clear coat cover up any scratches left behind?
Hi Johnny, yes. Our clear coat acts as a filler so it can cover up scratches
@@StartRestoringHeadlights thank you and all your video are great.
@@johnnynguyen6730 Thank you!
I like your handy paper with tape, where you get those
Hi Bucket List! Lowes, it was about $50. The tape itself is about $10, and the masking paper is $6. Well worth it.
Which is better (polish or spray)
Boy, you and the headlight restoration pro are miles apart when it comes to your philosophy other than the fact that both of you stress don’t use 2K clear lol
How does one pick the best strategy. Your method definitely seems easier, and much more profitable because the supplies needed are very few.
My only question is, how did you go about developing your own clearcoat? Having a good clearcoat makes a break the whole headlight restoration. The reason I quit the business back in 2012 is because I couldn’t find good product that would hold up in the Florida sun.
Yes, his process is great, and I actually started out doing the same process, but it's an old, outdated process. Idk if he's scaling, and quite frankly it is none of my business, but it's not an efficient method from a business standpoint simply because it takes way too long, and isn't cost-effective after factoring in all the material. I didn't develop the clear coat, I did a lot of research to find a manufacturer that develops clear coat that's specifically designed for polycarbonate. I've been operating my business, and using this process since 2019, and best part is that I'm also in Florida :)
@@StartRestoringHeadlights I’m going to give your method and spray a try. See which I like better. Because yours definitely allows for one person to scale up faster.!
@@StartRestoringHeadlights I see you have two websites listed in the description. Which one should I order from?
@@KeatSweat the Nextgenheadlightsolutions site, the other one is going to be aimed for all things about the business. Doing a major update soon
I don't like this method at all. Anything that relies on the clearcoat to cover up scratches is a gimmick. Use 500,800, then 3000 trizac pad to wet sand, then polish with a real plastic polish to crystal clarity, then use a maguires headlight sealer as a final step to protect an already clear surface. This might look acceptable on a video, but the amount of clarity you're missing out on, which will directly translate into additional night visibility is massive. This will not come close to the peak performance of a real restoration.
Thanks for the tip brother! 👍
Did I do something wrong? I recommended a spray bottle, not a paid link. why did you delete the comment?
Hi Bob, I was wondering the same thing, I was writing a comment about how often I needed to refill mine, and am actively looking for some new bottles. Definitely did not delete. What was the brand you recommended again? Please link it
@@StartRestoringHeadlights this is how the bottle looks. th-cam.com/video/Xw8lrVCU8kw/w-d-xo.html
@@bobsgarageFL Not bad, especially for 3 dollars! I can't find any of them in more than 32 oz. I currently keep 5 full ones, and run out by the end of the day, so I have to refill every morning.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights refilling wide mouth makes it much easier
hey bro what did your reccomend? it seems that it’s been deleted again
theres still a blue tape bro
Ha! Yes, I had to pull out the credit card to pinch those small pieces out. This is why you have to remove the tape slowly lol Good eye!
Yess Wet sanding... By Hand !.... is the best method It's easy , quck and Controlable.
Dry sanding and using a power drill is Simply Lazy production work. nonsense,
Thank you! Honestly, powertools are overkill when it comes to sanding headlights. If you're polishing, obviously you need it, but the majority of vehicles can be done in the amount of time it takes most to tape up for prep.
Why don’t you just lift the hood?
The customer had left their keys inside after walking out.