My workshop envy is monumental. The opening scene shows such a beautiful, uncluttered brightly lit workshop. Oh I wish I had one of those elements in my workshop! 😂
you done it, despite the fears and then success but still humble. that's why i like you so much better than others. You show how a engine comes to life step by step and without mincing words too much - with all the insecurities that comes doing some operation the first time. this in my mind, gives some the push to try it out themselves, even without the best tooling. i would call it, the "just do it mentality"
Ha ha - thanks mate. It turned out to be quite an expensive component - having purchased a fixed steady and a boring bar with a carbide shank! Anyway, I got there in the end. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Cheers Andrew
Wel done! That could have gone badly wrong but you anticipated the problems and produced a great result. The brake hone is easy to use and very gentle so you will remove only a tiny amount of material. Basically just taking the tops off the ridges caused by the cutter. Put the hone in the tailstock chuck and the part in the lathe chuck. Using a litlle cutting fluid on the hone run it through the bore at fairly low speed. It will take many passes to remove even one thou, but it gives the bore a nice finish. Dwell a little longer on the tight end of the bore and you may be able to reduce the variation slightly. Remember it is not a machining tool so it will be hard to get accuracy. Just go steady and check your dimensions often. If you do go a thou over make the piston to fit the bore instead of following the plan dimensions. Give it a try.
Hi Tim - many thanks for the advice and explanation. From what I can tell the bore is out by 2 to 3 thou along it's length. I'm thinking that I might try boring it slightly larger once I get my between centres boring bar set up. It should be good practice, and if I mess up I can always have a go at making another one. I really appreciate the explanation though and it will no doubt come in handy in the future. Cheers Andrew
I know I am several months late here , but to get a better start point for your center drill. you can use the V square of your combenation Square to scribe an "X". Just put the "V" of the combination square on the ruler . The ruler will cross the end of you round stock through the center . turn your stock 45* to 60* scribe another line to form an "x" will mark the spot to center drill. In the 3 jaw chuck you can still use you hammer to tap the end of your round stock while rotating the chuck. to line up the "X" with your center drill. Your run-out and interrupted cuts will be a lot less.
Well done Andrew, another different material and process now under your belt. I think you will like the Hemmingway Kit, they have good designs and super instructions. I have just bought their Rotary Broach Kit and the instructions are great, clear with plenty of coloured photographs.Stay Safe and Well. Regards to all from Australia.
Thanks Dave. For one of my first projects I purchased a Hemmingway Knurling Tool kit and it was really good quality material and design. The Rotary Broach kit looks very interesting - maybe one for me to have a go at in a few years time after I've made this engine! You take care too! Cheers Andrew
Thanks mate. Yeah between centre boring should be fun. I'm glad Dave provided a link to Mr Crispin - definately one for me to study before having a go myself. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, this is one of my next parts on the Kerzel Hit & Miss Engine so enjoyed watching the video. The cylinder liner on the Kerzel is cast iron but also the piston and rings. I'm just trying to locate some cast iron here in NZ. Regards Kevin
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew, Yes I have done line boring in my endmill grinder videos. Have a look here: th-cam.com/video/lcCF6Uy_lXE/w-d-xo.html Regards Kevin
Well done Andrew! Did You deliberatly want to make us scared, telling You would turn half the inner, half the outher and then swop the piece, in a 3 jaw chuck? I felt like calling 911 to stop You….. Your way of doing the work was brilliant. Turning a new face plate and cleaning the neighbourhood from cast iron dust I tell I'll never try to make a steam engine…...
When using such a steady You can wrap a sanpaper(!) around the item, the sanded surface outwards. Lubricate between stock and the smooth side of the sandpaper. Works excellent! It saves both the steady and the stock.
I really like this web site that you have just what I'm interested in-- could you put a link in the description for anything that you buy like the Hemminways between center kit I looked for it and could not find it doing good keep it up.
Hi William. Thanks for the feedback. I often try to avoid putting URLs in descriptions because sellers often change them. There is only one 'm' in Hemingway which is probably why you couldn't find their website. The link to the between centres boring bar is currently: www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/_Tidy__Between_Centres_Boring_Bar.html I hope that helps. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal thanks for the link, thought that was what you were talking about the large one is like one I made and the gauge also I have one suggestion but what you are doing it is working out the suggestion is when you are milling between centers like making gears the cutter should be cutting away from the tailstock not to it you can reverse the indexing head from the left side to the right side so you will be cutting to the indexing head not away from it and cutter still be on the fount.
Coming along now, the cylinder is one of the most critical parts, surface finish and parallelism are critical for the engine to run. As mentioned you can use a small brake hone to smooth it off and take out the taper. The tolerance for the piston fit is tiny, I’ve just got my model hit and miss running and had to re-make the piston as it was one thou too small, engine wouldn’t run. If you had a bigger lathe you could easy face, drill (one drill about 22mm straight in) finish OD finish bore and part off all in one operation.
Thanks for the advice James. I actually purchased a small brake hone a while back after someone suggested it when I had machined one of the Stuart cylinders. I've never used it and don't know how to. With the hone material just 1 inch long l am concerned that I would actually increase the taper and make matters worse. If I understood how to use it, maybe it would alay my fears. All the best. Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale even emery on your finger to polish it out a bit. I just know from getting my engine running that they are VERY fussy on bore fit and finish, and valves sealing too, any loss of compression either stops them from running or makes them only able to run fast. You should be able to roll the engine slowly over the compression stroke with no audible hissing and it should have enough stored compression to push the piston back down to bottom dead centre and even bounce back and fourth a little.
Hi James - many thanks for the info. I've just checked out some TH-cam videos on cylinder honing and I think I will give it a try. Worse case, if I mess up, I can always open it up a little when I've got my between centre boring set up. Cheers Andrew
At the time 11:20 You show the 10 mm Carbide boring bar. Could You attach a link to it, where You bought it? What type of inserts does it use? I can pay for a good boring bar if I know I get a good one.
Sticking the part number visible on the b'bar in the video into google gives as the first link the tool available from shop-apt.co.uk in the UK, price £60 www.shop-apt.co.uk/sclcr-carbide-shank-boring-bars-for-ccmt-inserts/c10p-sclcr-06-apt-10mm-diameter-carbide-shank-boring-bar-for-ccmt-0602-inserts.html
Is that a small hole in the wall at about 15:06, looks like a blow hole but can't really see it clearly as it flashes past. Hope not. Keep it up, look forward to the next episode.
Is that lathe still the Sieg SC4, Andrew? If so, can you recommend it? Would you prefer to have gone for the SC6 or SC10? Questions, questions, I know. Great work, you're doing these days - it's a crime you have so few subscribers. Sorry - I see it IS the SC4, the rest of the questions still apply, though. :)
Hi Richard. I purchased the SC4 from Arc Euro Trade and I'm very happy with it. I am not aware of the SC6 or SC10, but if it comes from Seig and you have the space and cash I would go for the biggest you can get. Subscriber numbers don't matter to me, but three things do. 1: Documenting my learning experience. 2: Hoping to inspire others to get into model engineering. 3: Getting help and advice from toolmakers with decades of experience. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew - the SC6 and SC10 are available her in Australia and are somewhat larger (as the number suggests) than the SC4. If you're happy, I won't bloviate about them, since I haven't actually handled them, myself. Lots of luck.
I almost bought the sc4 lathe, but when i went to Axminister tools to have a look at a sc4 lathe next too it was a c8 lathe a lot bigger lathe 750mm between centres 140mm centre height & 25mm up the spindle for the extra it was worth it. Sorry for the late reply.
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately my toolholder restricted the size of boring bar. I suppose I could have explored other ways of holding a larger tool, but I wanted to avoid one job leading to another. The 10mm carbide shank cost £80.00 and that was cheap compared to others. Having already purchased a fixed steady for the job, it ended up being a quite expensive part to make. As you know, It can get to be a quite expensive hobby. But, you can never have too many tools! All the best. Andrew
Ok good job. Perhaps a little constructive criticism, final cut was a bit noisy due to vibration, this will give you a poor finish. A larger boring bar would help, also a small cutting radius on the boring bar. I would say less rpm also. You can buy a small cylinder hone on Ebay for car brake cylinders that will increase surface finish and Possibly remove some of the taper. Hope this helps regards john
Thanks for the advice John - very much appreciated. Unfortunately my toolholder restricted the size of boring bar. I suppose I could have explored other ways of holding a larger tool, but wanted to avoid one job leading to another. I actually purchased a small cylinder brake hone a while back after someone suggested it when I had machined one of the Stuart cylinders. I've never used it and don't know how to. With the hone material just 1 inch long l am concerned that I would actually increase the taper and make matters worse. If I understood how to use it, maybe it would alay my fears. All the best. Andrew
Ok when you said this is the final cut just 4 thou to come of, you cut some out to get a size, then you filmed the last cut for the video. The first 6 mm or so didn't vibrate, I suspect you were removing about one thou or a spring cut, that should have been the final cut all the way through if that makes sense. Next cylinder hone, clamp the cylinder in the chuck and fit the hone in a drill chuck. Put some clamps on the bed so you don't leave the bore with The business end of the hone the move the tailstock in and out slowly by hand plenty of cutting oil or wd40 at about 100 rpm checking regularly. hope this makes sense have fun be safe keep up the good work Regards
Hi John - well observed. I don't know what a spring cut is, but I suspect it's what I did without knowing it. I think that the bore is out by 2 to 3 thou along it's length, and from other comments I don't think that will be good enough for a hit n miss engine. So, I plan to make a finish it once I've got the between centre boring bar set up. All the best. Andrew
My workshop envy is monumental. The opening scene shows such a beautiful, uncluttered brightly lit workshop. Oh I wish I had one of those elements in my workshop! 😂
I am so glad that I found your channel. You do a wonderful job using the tools that almost everyone can afford! Good job!
Thanks for the feedback Tom - very much appreciated.
Take care!
Andrew
Good job. You should make a video of the whole build, I’d love to watch it all the way through.
I have! 😃
@@learningturningmetal oh I see I’ll have a wee look through your videos.
@@Darren_Barclay I have a playlist dedicated to the Farm Boy build. That way it's easy to see/play all 20+ videos.
you done it, despite the fears and then success but still humble. that's why i like you so much better than others. You show how a engine comes to life step by step and without mincing words too much - with all the insecurities that comes doing some operation the first time. this in my mind, gives some the push to try it out themselves, even without the best tooling. i would call it, the "just do it mentality"
Ha ha - thanks mate. It turned out to be quite an expensive component - having purchased a fixed steady and a boring bar with a carbide shank! Anyway, I got there in the end. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Cheers
Andrew
Wel done! That could have gone badly wrong but you anticipated the problems and produced a great result. The brake hone is easy to use and very gentle so you will remove only a tiny amount of material. Basically just taking the tops off the ridges caused by the cutter. Put the hone in the tailstock chuck and the part in the lathe chuck. Using a litlle cutting fluid on the hone run it through the bore at fairly low speed. It will take many passes to remove even one thou, but it gives the bore a nice finish. Dwell a little longer on the tight end of the bore and you may be able to reduce the variation slightly. Remember it is not a machining tool so it will be hard to get accuracy. Just go steady and check your dimensions often. If you do go a thou over make the piston to fit the bore instead of following the plan dimensions. Give it a try.
Hi Tim - many thanks for the advice and explanation. From what I can tell the bore is out by 2 to 3 thou along it's length. I'm thinking that I might try boring it slightly larger once I get my between centres boring bar set up. It should be good practice, and if I mess up I can always have a go at making another one.
I really appreciate the explanation though and it will no doubt come in handy in the future.
Cheers
Andrew
I know I am several months late here , but to get a better start point for your center drill. you can use the V square of your combenation Square to scribe an "X". Just put the "V" of the combination square on the ruler . The ruler will cross the end of you round stock through the center . turn your stock 45* to 60* scribe another line to form an "x" will mark the spot to center drill. In the 3 jaw chuck you can still use you hammer to tap the end of your round stock while rotating the chuck. to line up the "X" with your center drill. Your run-out and interrupted cuts will be a lot less.
Hi Mark - thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have a v square. Maybe something else to put on my shopping list!
Cheers
Andrew
Such a good video series thanks for sharing awesome stuff👏
Ask a dozen machinists how to do something and there might be 15 answers, but never mind that, you did your way and it worked.👍
Hi Chris - yeah not the best solution but luck was on my side.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal wrong thinking, if it works for you it is the best and luck comes with practice.👍
Well done Andrew, another different material and process now under your belt. I think you will like the Hemmingway Kit, they have good designs and super instructions. I have just bought their Rotary Broach Kit and the instructions are great, clear with plenty of coloured photographs.Stay Safe and Well. Regards to all from Australia.
Thanks Dave. For one of my first projects I purchased a Hemmingway Knurling Tool kit and it was really good quality material and design. The Rotary Broach kit looks very interesting - maybe one for me to have a go at in a few years time after I've made this engine!
You take care too!
Cheers
Andrew
really enjoying this series!
Thanks for the video. Keep safe and stay well.
Cheers Colin - you too mate!
Great work Andrew, have more confidence in yourself you are doing brilliantly.
Thanks Derek.
Take care.
Andrew
Ha ha - nice one Tony!
Glad you are finding some of the videos of interest.
Take care mate!
Cheers
Andrew
I am very much interested in seeing between center boring Andrew. Great job on the sleeve .
Have a look at this guy . th-cam.com/video/s8HM8ja9t-A/w-d-xo.html
Thanks mate. Yeah between centre boring should be fun. I'm glad Dave provided a link to Mr Crispin - definately one for me to study before having a go myself.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, this is one of my next parts on the Kerzel Hit & Miss Engine so enjoyed watching the video. The cylinder liner on the Kerzel is cast iron but also the piston and rings. I'm just trying to locate some cast iron here in NZ. Regards Kevin
Hi Kevin. I would highly recommend between centre boring if you have that capability. Looking forward to see how you go about it.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew, Yes I have done line boring in my endmill grinder videos. Have a look here: th-cam.com/video/lcCF6Uy_lXE/w-d-xo.html
Regards Kevin
Really coming along very well. Keep us in the know! Regards, C
Cheers Chris!
Well done Andrew! Did You deliberatly want to make us scared, telling You would turn half the inner, half the outher and then swop the piece, in a 3 jaw chuck? I felt like calling 911 to stop You…..
Your way of doing the work was brilliant.
Turning a new face plate and cleaning the neighbourhood from cast iron dust I tell I'll never try to make a steam engine…...
When using such a steady You can wrap a sanpaper(!) around the item, the sanded surface outwards. Lubricate between stock and the smooth side of the sandpaper. Works excellent! It saves both the steady and the stock.
Stefan Börjesson interesting idea.
@@kgee2111 Some of the turning TH-camrs showed it. No squezing noices, less ware on the item being turned.
Good job Andrew!
Cheers Craig!
I really like this web site that you have just what I'm interested in-- could you put a link in the description for anything that you buy like the Hemminways between center kit I looked for it and could not find it doing good keep it up.
Hi William. Thanks for the feedback. I often try to avoid putting URLs in descriptions because sellers often change them. There is only one 'm' in Hemingway which is probably why you couldn't find their website. The link to the between centres boring bar is currently:
www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/_Tidy__Between_Centres_Boring_Bar.html
I hope that helps.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal thanks for the link, thought that was what you were talking about the large one is like one I made and the gauge also I have one suggestion but what you are doing it is working out the suggestion is when you are milling between centers like making gears the cutter should be cutting away from the tailstock not to it you can reverse the indexing head from the left side to the right side so you will be cutting to the indexing head not away from it and cutter still be on the fount.
Coming along now, the cylinder is one of the most critical parts, surface finish and parallelism are critical for the engine to run. As mentioned you can use a small brake hone to smooth it off and take out the taper. The tolerance for the piston fit is tiny, I’ve just got my model hit and miss running and had to re-make the piston as it was one thou too small, engine wouldn’t run.
If you had a bigger lathe you could easy face, drill (one drill about 22mm straight in) finish OD finish bore and part off all in one operation.
Thanks for the advice James. I actually purchased a small brake hone a while back after someone suggested it when I had machined one of the Stuart cylinders. I've never used it and don't know how to. With the hone material just 1 inch long l am concerned that I would actually increase the taper and make matters worse. If I understood how to use it, maybe it would alay my fears.
All the best.
Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale even emery on your finger to polish it out a bit. I just know from getting my engine running that they are VERY fussy on bore fit and finish, and valves sealing too, any loss of compression either stops them from running or makes them only able to run fast. You should be able to roll the engine slowly over the compression stroke with no audible hissing and it should have enough stored compression to push the piston back down to bottom dead centre and even bounce back and fourth a little.
Hi James - many thanks for the info. I've just checked out some TH-cam videos on cylinder honing and I think I will give it a try. Worse case, if I mess up, I can always open it up a little when I've got my between centre boring set up.
Cheers
Andrew
At the time 11:20 You show the 10 mm Carbide boring bar. Could You attach a link to it, where You bought it? What type of inserts does it use? I can pay for a good boring bar if I know I get a good one.
Sticking the part number visible on the b'bar in the video into google gives as the first link the tool available from shop-apt.co.uk in the UK, price £60
www.shop-apt.co.uk/sclcr-carbide-shank-boring-bars-for-ccmt-inserts/c10p-sclcr-06-apt-10mm-diameter-carbide-shank-boring-bar-for-ccmt-0602-inserts.html
Is that a small hole in the wall at about 15:06, looks like a blow hole but can't really see it clearly as it flashes past. Hope not.
Keep it up, look forward to the next episode.
If you go back to the drawing. th-cam.com/video/6bCXq1I98uA/w-d-xo.html your will see plans call out for a #40 drill hole for oil hole.
Is that lathe still the Sieg SC4, Andrew? If so, can you recommend it? Would you prefer to have gone for the SC6 or SC10? Questions, questions, I know. Great work, you're doing these days - it's a crime you have so few subscribers. Sorry - I see it IS the SC4, the rest of the questions still apply, though. :)
Hi Richard. I purchased the SC4 from Arc Euro Trade and I'm very happy with it. I am not aware of the SC6 or SC10, but if it comes from Seig and you have the space and cash I would go for the biggest you can get. Subscriber numbers don't matter to me, but three things do. 1: Documenting my learning experience. 2: Hoping to inspire others to get into model engineering. 3: Getting help and advice from toolmakers with decades of experience.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew - the SC6 and SC10 are available her in Australia and are somewhat larger (as the number suggests) than the SC4. If you're happy, I won't bloviate about them, since I haven't actually handled them, myself. Lots of luck.
I almost bought the sc4 lathe, but when i went to Axminister tools to have a look at a sc4 lathe next too it was a c8 lathe a lot bigger lathe 750mm between centres 140mm centre height & 25mm up the spindle for the extra it was worth it.
Sorry for the late reply.
You could have bought a bigger carbide boring bar say 16mm dia and it would have been stiffer. But these carbide boring bars are expensive.
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately my toolholder restricted the size of boring bar. I suppose I could have explored other ways of holding a larger tool, but I wanted to avoid one job leading to another. The 10mm carbide shank cost £80.00 and that was cheap compared to others. Having already purchased a fixed steady for the job, it ended up being a quite expensive part to make. As you know, It can get to be a quite expensive hobby. But, you can never have too many tools!
All the best.
Andrew
Whoops, its an oil hole - forget the previous comment. Went back and looked at the drawing.
Ha ha - well observed!
I thought I would sneek the oil hole in off camera and wondered if anywone might notice.
Nice one!
Andrew
Video 2 and 3 th-cam.com/video/A1doJnJKUmk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/vZA38Dgbehc/w-d-xo.html
Ok good job.
Perhaps a little constructive criticism, final cut was a bit noisy due to vibration, this will give you a poor finish.
A larger boring bar would help, also a small cutting radius on the boring bar. I would say less rpm also.
You can buy a small cylinder hone on Ebay for car brake cylinders that will increase surface finish and
Possibly remove some of the taper.
Hope this helps regards john
Thanks for the advice John - very much appreciated. Unfortunately my toolholder restricted the size of boring bar. I suppose I could have explored other ways of holding a larger tool, but wanted to avoid one job leading to another. I actually purchased a small cylinder brake hone a while back after someone suggested it when I had machined one of the Stuart cylinders. I've never used it and don't know how to. With the hone material just 1 inch long l am concerned that I would actually increase the taper and make matters worse. If I understood how to use it, maybe it would alay my fears.
All the best.
Andrew
Ok when you said this is the final cut just 4 thou to come of, you cut some out to get a size, then you filmed the last cut for the video.
The first 6 mm or so didn't vibrate, I suspect you were removing about one thou or a spring cut, that should have been the final cut all the way
through if that makes sense.
Next cylinder hone, clamp the cylinder in the chuck and fit the hone in a drill chuck. Put some clamps on the bed so you don't leave the bore with
The business end of the hone the move the tailstock in and out slowly by hand plenty of cutting oil or wd40 at about 100 rpm checking regularly.
hope this makes sense have fun be safe keep up the good work
Regards
Hi John - well observed. I don't know what a spring cut is, but I suspect it's what I did without knowing it.
I think that the bore is out by 2 to 3 thou along it's length, and from other comments I don't think that will be good enough for a hit n miss engine.
So, I plan to make a finish it once I've got the between centre boring bar set up.
All the best.
Andrew