Thank God there's people like you to explain this because it's so confusing to the common consumer, and somebody so-called experts don't know what the hell they're talking about
All receptacles have a NEMA designation that will tell you the amps and from that designation you can pretty easily look up wiring diagrams. I hope that helps!
If you have any doubt, buy the cord that matches, and attach it as per instruction on the dyer. Do not install the outlet if you are confused. Or get a pro to upgrade the outlet to the four wire type (the ground is connected to the metal case of the dryer and it is safer that way.
Nice description! 👌 This subject is cause for lots of confusion amongst those not in the trade, and even some in the trade! The terminology used to identify conductors and the actual applied use of said conductors is where mistakes are made. I spent a whole lunch break trying to explain to my 2nd year apprentice that the un insulated (bare) wire within older romex is referred to as a grounding conductor (ground), but it is / was used back in the day, as a grounded conductor (neutral) in certain instances such as the 3 wire dryer connection (two hots and a neutral). But when it came to the air handler, the connection was compromised of two hots and a ground. So the bare wire was a neutral when feeding the dryer, but a ground when feeding the air handler. Dryer is 120/240 volts, hence neutral. Air handler is 240 volts, hence ground. This may sound trivial, but it makes a BIG difference when it comes to landing that "bare" wire within a sub panel, which has its neutrals and grounds separated. SO.... The moral of the story is, just because it's bare, that doesn't mean that it always gets terminated on the ground bus with all the other bare wires! It depends on the load being served as to what the 3rd wire becomes. 120/240 it's a neutral. 240 only its a ground. Fortunately, these days, it is no longer acceptable to use the ground (bare) as a neutral, unless of course, it is existing wiring in an older building that is grandfathered in. This may well be a great topic for you to do another video on, as it needs to be explained carefully, and you, sir, seem to have an ability to do just that. Thanks for taking the time to create this short, and keep up the good work! Great channel 👏
In the interest of safety, if you're getting a new dryer, and you've got an old 3-wire receptacle, it's a good idea to replace it with a 4-wire receptacle, assuming the box has ground running to it. Note that there may be a jumper in the dryer you need to remove as they can use both 3 and 4 wire plugs.
if you have a 4 prong plug on a new home and bring your old dryer, don't forget to remove the internal ground strap (inside the dryer) when changing the cord.... because a new home will have a GFCI breaker, and that strap will trip the GFCI.
Me: went to school for electrical engineering Also me: somehow missed all this because EET doesn’t make you an electrician Sadly me: wishing I went to school to become an electrician instead of an electrical engineer (who needs breadboards? Pfft) Happily me: now subscribed to your channel and making up for lost time!
Brother like I said and say it again you have talent, you know your stuff and you could be a great teacher thank for all your hard work making this videos
Shaped like a "U", unless you mount it sideways then its a "D"😁 ....didnt think about it till i started typing but it could also make "D for grounD and L for neutraL"😅 All joking aside, thanks for explaining
Wow thanks for explaining this so simply and clearly! I've always been a lil confused, despite having changed cords on many a clothesdryer for myself and others thru the years. Flat-blades = hot L blade = return/neutral U prong = ground
I bought a new dryer and the installers tied the neutral and ground together inside the dryer, which used a four conductor plug. For some unknown reason, I decided to check their work and discovered what they did. It only took a few minutes to fix it but I was still pissed at their sloppy incompetence.
In that first one, the chassis of the drier will often be connected to the neutral. Just hope you don't get a broken neutral, or you might be in for a shock... Not, of course, legal for new installs.
@@lrfiv I'm not surprised. It's amazing that the code allowed it up until the middle of the 1990s, although there will be plenty of "grandfathered" installations still around for many decades to come. Fortunately, with the North American split phase system, the shock will be limited to 120V to ground maximum, which is very rarely deadly, although it's much worse in a wet environment, like a laundry.
That is neutral but on that type of receptacle ground wire from dryer (itself)should be connected to that neutral and it’s not 100% safe but by code it’s considered existing situation.On new type receptacle (4 prone)ground wire should be separated from neutral.
Can you do one to explain the different bodied nema 14-50 outlets. Is there any difference between the kind that looks like the outlets you showed here and the "heavy duty" one?
My dryer was jumpered Neutral to Ground... So technically, a false ground. I opened the dryer, removed the jumper, and grounded the dryer to the cold water pipe, the way it was done in the old days when people knew how to do things.
True, however the device instructions will often have you bond the grounded conductor to the equipment grounding terminal on the device. Obviously fault current still gets back to the source as long as the was correctly bonded. To be honest, it’s crazy how all this works - even in the past. Our system is so incredibly robust.
Prior to the code change in the 90s, the dryers had a ground strap bonding the neutral to the chassis. With the 4 prong devices used today, the bonding strap is not used. The equipt ground and neutral remain separate.
Prior to 1940 it was not allowed. In 1942 to save metal for ww2 they changed the code to allowed the neutral to be used as a ground in dryers and range. The code stayed that way until 1996
@@FerrellBill Not true. If there is a broken neutral back to the panel, then the chassis can go live due to there being no current carrying path back. It's potentially dangerous, and not approved for new installs. There is a reason why the grounding conductor is separate. If we only ever needed hot and neutral, then why do you think that a separate ground circuit was ever invented?
My boss started buying these 30 amp outlets that are 4 wire, (hot, hot neutral, ground) all the screws are silver. I know how to install them but getting somebody else to wire it up the right way isn’t as easy
2020 NEC code dryers need to be on a 30 a.m. GFCI breaker the damn problem is the dryer manufacturers tie the neutral and ground together. I constantly get service call for this. What is your response?
You wouldn't be able to do that anyway. Those prongs are heavy brass and you would need something a lot stronger than pliars to do any bending and twisting!
Had a dryer that kept tripping the breaker. I replaced the chord and receptable for one of those dual hot with a neutral and never tripped again. Wonder why....
Not only is this a great breakdown but you tell people to look at the instructions at the beginning. There would be a whole a lot more people still alive if they did that
@buzzlightyear5515 they only tie to the same place once. In the house getting wrong can put current on all the metal of the appliances fed out of a subpanel
Yeah, nah. If Im putting in a weird 240v or three phase plug or outlet, I'm going to the wikipedia for NEMA. No way I trust myself to reliably remember which is which.
1st NEMA 10-30 L1 N L2 2ND NEMA 6-30. L1 L2 GROUND 3RD NEMA 14-30 L1 N L2 GROUND TRAILER houses used 4 wires since the mid 60s and 1999 most states made it standard for 14-30. 10-30 was phased out by 1999 code adoption. 6-30 used on Compressors, Wall hung Shop heaters and 30,000 BTU window AC or Rack mount computer power supply
But, the 1996 NEC codes states all NEW WORK must include the ground. If you have an older equipment that has no ground, you must make compliant. In the old days, the dryer makers would have a plug that was hot, hot, ground and the dryer light would sneak the neutral on ground path. Nope.
@@Stevenj120volts Steve, I think there’s been some misunderstanding. The National Electrical Code (NEC) indeed doesn’t make dryers; it governs the electrical standards manufacturers need to comply with. I’m specifically referring to older dryer models that might have followed different electrical wiring standards before NEC updates. It would indeed be a monumental task to examine every dryer model since 1938, but that’s why it’s crucial to rely on credible sources and professional experience. Expertise in this area is often built over years of practical application, and I believe there’s value in considering all perspectives. While concrete thinking has its place, the nuances of historical appliance development and code compliance require a more flexible approach. Let’s agree that some things aren’t purely black and white, especially when it comes to evolving standards in manufacturing and safety.
@@williamcorcoran8842 the misunderstanding is on your end. I 100% know the history and 100% know I am correct. The 3 wire dryer and stove bonding and grounding is straight out of the NEC and controlled by the NEC. I own every code book back to 1940 it was a code violation in 1940 but then In 1942 to save metal for the war the NEC added an expectation that allowed you to not need a ground run to the dryer or stove they said the frame maybe grounded by a connection to the neutral.(Grounded conductor) This wording is still in the modern 2023 NEC to explain what is happening with the old equipment. If you have a 3 wire dryer the code requires that third wire to be treated as neutral including be an insulated conductor with run to a sub panel. Old stove and dryer always had 120 components and needed a neutral. Think about old 120v plugs one hot one and one neutral no ground. Thee three wire dryer is the 120/240 equivalent two hots and a neutral. . Also think about the receptacle is NOT labeled 240v it is labeled with dual voltage of 120/240 because it has neutral
@@williamcorcoran8842 i have geeked out hard on this topic its the reason I built my code book collection and I even went to an original 1968 stove so I could run tests and do experiments. What year NEC do you have I can look it up tell you where to find the rule
And for those of you using the damn neutral as a ground when changing out the dryer whip, they make a special place in hell that involves Hitler and pineapples. It's hard enough to diagnose neutrals in the field without dealing with bonding issues on top of it.
I'm sorry I guess I'm just not that smart. I could sure use a little more information. After 96 Why did we not need a neutral before that please explain more.
Mmmk sooo … what’s the purpose of the neutral with 220 ? I understand how it makes the outlet rated for 110, but why?? Why do we need a 220 dryer outlet rated for 110? Do these newer units use both 220 and 110? Also curious to know if there’s return current on neutral with 220, I assume from another video of yours there wouldn’t be because the unit balances its usage .. 🤔 Cheers
@@Stevenj120volts I had figured manufacturers would have step down transformers in their equipment.. the neutral with 220 has always made me question why.. Cheers
That's what ypu get with US grid. I can plug my dryer into any recepticle i want in my house becouse all of them are the same and all of them can take 3500w load.
@aleksandarl6975 you are confused the different types of receptacle are both rated for the same watts and amps. The different type is an old receptacle with not ground. The USA system is head and shoulders above the eu
@@Stevenj120volts i'm aware of that, but that's not what i ment, i was talking about is that you have to have diferent type of the recepticle for high load appliances in the US, while we here in eastern europe can plug ours where ever we want becouse all outlets are the same (schuko), and i can simply unplug my phone charger in the kitchen and plug the dryer there instead if i want to, but if you want to move yours that takes some electrical work 1st.
@aleksandarl6975 well that's not true... I just when to Germany and Paris it was only 3 hours apart and the receptacles where totally different you type f type a type b. The uk is different. It's total mess over there
@aleksandarl6975 the usa(not counting Alaska) covers an area the same size as London to Baghdad. With one complete standardized system. You guys have a mess of like 20 systems in the same size area.
@@Stevenj120voltsparts of France (even if you can plug rest of the europe plug to french outlet) and UK have their own wierd thing, fortunately i don't live there, outlets being only the tip of the iceberg why🤣. Rest of the europe is fine and adhere to 1 electrical standard, like what you saw in Germany. French and rest of europe, apart from UK plugs are compatible in most cases, as most (can't remember when was the last time i saw one that doesn't) newer schuko plugs produced have extra hole for french ground pin.
I've often found this topic confusing, but you have a way of making it crystal clear.
I have to agree with you. Excellent work.
Thank God there's people like you to explain this because it's so confusing to the common consumer, and somebody so-called experts don't know what the hell they're talking about
All receptacles have a NEMA designation that will tell you the amps and from that designation you can pretty easily look up wiring diagrams. I hope that helps!
If you have any doubt, buy the cord that matches, and attach it as per instruction on the dyer. Do not install the outlet if you are confused. Or get a pro to upgrade the outlet to the four wire type (the ground is connected to the metal case of the dryer and it is safer that way.
The way I remembered when i was a kid was Pittsburgh. Black and yellow, white on white. I was like 12. It stuck.
You give such good clear instructions. Very nice thank you
@@robflammia4716 thank
Nice description! 👌 This subject is cause for lots of confusion amongst those not in the trade, and even some in the trade! The terminology used to identify conductors and the actual applied use of said conductors is where mistakes are made. I spent a whole lunch break trying to explain to my 2nd year apprentice that the un insulated (bare) wire within older romex is referred to as a grounding conductor (ground), but it is / was used back in the day, as a grounded conductor (neutral) in certain instances such as the 3 wire dryer connection (two hots and a neutral). But when it came to the air handler, the connection was compromised of two hots and a ground. So the bare wire was a neutral when feeding the dryer, but a ground when feeding the air handler. Dryer is 120/240 volts, hence neutral.
Air handler is 240 volts, hence ground. This may sound trivial, but it makes a BIG difference when it comes to landing that "bare" wire within a sub panel, which has its neutrals and grounds separated. SO....
The moral of the story is, just because it's bare, that doesn't mean that it always gets terminated on the ground bus with all the other bare wires! It depends on the load being served as to what the 3rd wire becomes. 120/240 it's a neutral. 240 only its a ground.
Fortunately, these days, it is no longer acceptable to use the ground (bare) as a neutral, unless of course, it is existing wiring in an older building that is grandfathered in.
This may well be a great topic for you to do another video on, as it needs to be explained carefully, and you, sir, seem to have an ability to do just that. Thanks for taking the time to create this short, and keep up the good work! Great channel 👏
In the interest of safety, if you're getting a new dryer, and you've got an old 3-wire receptacle, it's a good idea to replace it with a 4-wire receptacle, assuming the box has ground running to it.
Note that there may be a jumper in the dryer you need to remove as they can use both 3 and 4 wire plugs.
Dudes a great teacher 👍
I always wanted to know this, it makes easy to understand when you have all those comparison, thanks for your video and time
if you have a 4 prong plug on a new home and bring your old dryer, don't forget to remove the internal ground strap (inside the dryer) when changing the cord.... because a new home will have a GFCI breaker, and that strap will trip the GFCI.
Me: went to school for electrical engineering
Also me: somehow missed all this because EET doesn’t make you an electrician
Sadly me: wishing I went to school to become an electrician instead of an electrical engineer (who needs breadboards? Pfft)
Happily me: now subscribed to your channel and making up for lost time!
I subscribed for teaching me something I thought I knew. Thanks for making content.
Very glad that he showed up on my feed. Very good teacher!
Nice to see a pro telling it like it is. That NEC book looks a little dogeared. Good stuff man.
Brother like I said and say it again you have talent, you know your stuff and you could be a great teacher thank for all your hard work making this videos
Very good refresher on the subject, there is always something to learn / go over and get better
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Been trying to understand neutral for along time. Took you one day... Thx Cg
Thanks for the video, this clears up a lot of questions I had.
Thank you for your channel
Great refresher
Thanks
You're pretty good at this electrical thing!
Great videos guy.
Very informative subjects
Shaped like a "U", unless you mount it sideways then its a "D"😁
....didnt think about it till i started typing but it could also make "D for grounD and L for neutraL"😅
All joking aside, thanks for explaining
Oh my gosh. Succinct and most helpful.
Damn good bro you are the MAN
Keep up the good work
🙂I already know this,I am happy 😊 to see someone explain it thank you.
Quality stuff, second short i watched and it was clear as day.
Interesting faces when you see receptacles up close.
Great info. Thank you.
I like it. All info, no bullshit.
Boom. So clear.
Outlet with emotions and faces!
Wow thanks for explaining this so simply and clearly!
I've always been a lil confused, despite having changed cords on many a clothesdryer for myself and others thru the years.
Flat-blades = hot
L blade = return/neutral
U prong = ground
Lettts jump right into the electrical newwwwws!! 😂
I bought a new dryer and the installers tied the neutral and ground together inside the dryer, which used a four conductor plug.
For some unknown reason, I decided to check their work and discovered what they did.
It only took a few minutes to fix it but I was still pissed at their sloppy incompetence.
The way my mom taught me about ground:
Green is ground, stay neutral stay silver, bold and brass
Great job.
In that first one, the chassis of the drier will often be connected to the neutral. Just hope you don't get a broken neutral, or you might be in for a shock...
Not, of course, legal for new installs.
He's got both a long and a short on this very subject, titled something about "spicy neutrals" LOL. Also a very clear lesson.
@@lrfiv I'm not surprised. It's amazing that the code allowed it up until the middle of the 1990s, although there will be plenty of "grandfathered" installations still around for many decades to come.
Fortunately, with the North American split phase system, the shock will be limited to 120V to ground maximum, which is very rarely deadly, although it's much worse in a wet environment, like a laundry.
That first one looks like an Australian plug. We use the bottom one for ground.
That is neutral but on that type of receptacle ground wire from dryer (itself)should be connected to that neutral and it’s not 100% safe but by code it’s considered existing situation.On new type receptacle (4 prone)ground wire should be separated from neutral.
Thank you sir for sharing this information 🤝🏽
Can you do one to explain the different bodied nema 14-50 outlets. Is there any difference between the kind that looks like the outlets you showed here and the "heavy duty" one?
Thank you Tom Selleck.
My dryer was jumpered Neutral to Ground... So technically, a false ground. I opened the dryer, removed the jumper, and grounded the dryer to the cold water pipe, the way it was done in the old days when people knew how to do things.
I completely forgot they used to do that, thanks for making me feel old.
Thanks for sharing.
True, however the device instructions will often have you bond the grounded conductor to the equipment grounding terminal on the device. Obviously fault current still gets back to the source as long as the was correctly bonded. To be honest, it’s crazy how all this works - even in the past. Our system is so incredibly robust.
I agree with it, but at the panel, the neutral is bonded to the ground but ideally you should change it to a 4 prong plug and outlet.
Why is there no ground on that first 220V receptacle? Wasn't that a huge safety oversight before they finally added it to the newer version?
Neutral is bonded to ground in the primary panel. Don't really need it.
Prior to the code change in the 90s, the dryers had a ground strap bonding the neutral to the chassis. With the 4 prong devices used today, the bonding strap is not used. The equipt ground and neutral remain separate.
Prior to 1940 it was not allowed. In 1942 to save metal for ww2 they changed the code to allowed the neutral to be used as a ground in dryers and range. The code stayed that way until 1996
@tux1968 history of the upgrade
th-cam.com/video/UJ1W8SXiYKo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=02HtE7OFul42veR3
@@FerrellBill Not true. If there is a broken neutral back to the panel, then the chassis can go live due to there being no current carrying path back. It's potentially dangerous, and not approved for new installs.
There is a reason why the grounding conductor is separate. If we only ever needed hot and neutral, then why do you think that a separate ground circuit was ever invented?
So if you have old SEU 3-conductor cable w/ the uninsulated ground wire, you can use for neutral if you tape up BOTH ends?
Wow awesome man
My boss started buying these 30 amp outlets that are 4 wire, (hot, hot neutral, ground) all the screws are silver. I know how to install them but getting somebody else to wire it up the right way isn’t as easy
2020 NEC code dryers need to be on a 30 a.m. GFCI breaker the damn problem is the dryer manufacturers tie the neutral and ground together. I constantly get service call for this. What is your response?
Do you have to color code the end of the conductor in the box?
I'm thinking of 8-2 with ground UF for HVAC. 240V
Short answer is if the plug doesn fit the receptacle, DO NOT bend or twist one of the prongs to get it to go in.
You wouldn't be able to do that anyway. Those prongs are heavy brass and you would need something a lot stronger than pliars to do any bending and twisting!
@@ethanlamoureux5306 you underestimate the power of the average idiot!
Can you explain what the bonding strap is doing there? Bonds are only allowed at one point near the main disconnect, right?
Your knowledge of electrical is impressive. But don't think we don't see those wire nuts in the background hanging on that light!
That one with the two hots and the ground looks like he drank too much and is vomiting.
No neutral on that second one is blowing my mind.
@vwmullen that would be for like a welder that is only 240v and no parts are 120v
Have you hooked up 120 on the four wire system?
Had a dryer that kept tripping the breaker. I replaced the chord and receptable for one of those dual hot with a neutral and never tripped again. Wonder why....
Not only is this a great breakdown but you tell people to look at the instructions at the beginning. There would be a whole a lot more people still alive if they did that
Hey, you got it right this time 🎉
I've seen some installers put the ground and neutral on that one lug is that imbalance ok or is that bad ?
Dryers on sub panels are the cause of transient voltage when hooked up wrong. I’ve seen up to 40 volts on the ground
@@badbanano I have a video where I going to where the NEC tells you how to deal with 3 wire dryer on sub panels
I argued with my dad on this for hours... He tried saying you have 2 grounds in the new 4 prong... He thinks every neutral is a ground...
TRUE...NOODLE FOR LIGHT LOL...CODE NOW SAYS GROUND AND NOODLE A MUST MUST 30 AMP AMP DRYER
Who ever knew threw diffrent things could be so complicated
And don’t bond the dryer to the neutral! Lol
Good stuff!!
Why would there be a neutral on a 240 appliance? Do some dryers use both 240 and 120?
@@Fordo264 yes dryers and stoves have parts in that some parts use 120v and some 240v
How do you hooked up 120 on the four wire system?
Aren’t neutrals and grounds often tied into the same bus bar…so what difference does it make?
@buzzlightyear5515 they only tie to the same place once. In the house getting wrong can put current on all the metal of the appliances fed out of a subpanel
According to Bob Dylan, there ain't NO neutral ground...
Awesome information
Meanwhile in other countries all the plugs are the same😂
What's up with the light bulb and extension cord above you? All do respect.
Yeah, nah. If Im putting in a weird 240v or three phase plug or outlet, I'm going to the wikipedia for NEMA. No way I trust myself to reliably remember which is which.
Im looking to learn more about electrical. Its like God has sent you to teach the masses. God bless 😂❤
When he says silver he means silver color, it's just steel right? And the green is just an indicator, also steel?
Ground is green right?
1st NEMA 10-30 L1 N L2
2ND NEMA 6-30. L1 L2 GROUND
3RD NEMA 14-30 L1 N L2 GROUND
TRAILER houses used 4 wires since the mid 60s and 1999 most states made it standard for 14-30.
10-30 was phased out by 1999 code adoption.
6-30 used on Compressors, Wall hung Shop heaters and 30,000 BTU window AC or Rack mount computer power supply
Question so if it has three wire wiring which is two hots and a ground. Does that mean that configuration is wrong and you cannot install that plug?
On 120v, wouldn't that bottom one be a ground on that first outlet??
@@chevydavidson9220 grounds are U shaped and are only design to carry current during a fault
The nema # tells you everything you need to know.
I never realized there was an upgrade
But, the 1996 NEC codes states all NEW WORK must include the ground. If you have an older equipment that has no ground, you must make compliant. In the old days, the dryer makers would have a plug that was hot, hot, ground and the dryer light would sneak the neutral on ground path. Nope.
@@williamcorcoran8842 no
@@williamcorcoran8842 open the code book and read NEC 2023 250.140. the old dryers had two hots and a neutral. They didn't have a ground
@@Stevenj120volts Steve,
I think there’s been some misunderstanding. The National Electrical Code (NEC) indeed doesn’t make dryers; it governs the electrical standards manufacturers need to comply with. I’m specifically referring to older dryer models that might have followed different electrical wiring standards before NEC updates.
It would indeed be a monumental task to examine every dryer model since 1938, but that’s why it’s crucial to rely on credible sources and professional experience. Expertise in this area is often built over years of practical application, and I believe there’s value in considering all perspectives. While concrete thinking has its place, the nuances of historical appliance development and code compliance require a more flexible approach.
Let’s agree that some things aren’t purely black and white, especially when it comes to evolving standards in manufacturing and safety.
@@williamcorcoran8842 the misunderstanding is on your end. I 100% know the history and 100% know I am correct. The 3 wire dryer and stove bonding and grounding is straight out of the NEC and controlled by the NEC. I own every code book back to 1940 it was a code violation in 1940 but then In 1942 to save metal for the war the NEC added an expectation that allowed you to not need a ground run to the dryer or stove they said the frame maybe grounded by a connection to the neutral.(Grounded conductor) This wording is still in the modern 2023 NEC to explain what is happening with the old equipment. If you have a 3 wire dryer the code requires that third wire to be treated as neutral including be an insulated conductor with run to a sub panel. Old stove and dryer always had 120 components and needed a neutral. Think about old 120v plugs one hot one and one neutral no ground. Thee three wire dryer is the 120/240 equivalent two hots and a neutral. . Also think about the receptacle is NOT labeled 240v it is labeled with dual voltage of 120/240 because it has neutral
@@williamcorcoran8842 i have geeked out hard on this topic its the reason I built my code book collection and I even went to an original 1968 stove so I could run tests and do experiments. What year NEC do you have I can look it up tell you where to find the rule
"Silver" is actually "white brass"
Had one in 1965 house-why-never used
Where is the bonding strap?
What is a bonding strap??
The brass strip that connects the ground point to the metal frame so you don't shock yourself if you touch the metal face plate.
I still don't understand because the ground and the neutral go to the same place in the electrical panel.
The neutral is intended to carry current. Ground is not. It’s for personal protection only
And for those of you using the damn neutral as a ground when changing out the dryer whip, they make a special place in hell that involves Hitler and pineapples. It's hard enough to diagnose neutrals in the field without dealing with bonding issues on top of it.
What if I don’t have a neutral wire
I'm sorry I guess I'm just not that smart. I could sure use a little more information. After 96 Why did we not need a neutral before that please explain more.
May I ask why you have so many different socket types?
@MortenPLarsen I am an electrician I use them
@@Stevenj120volts Sorry my question was not Clear enough. So many types of sockets in US?
@MortenPLarsen the shape of the receptacle tell you the voltage and amps available on the circuit
Mmmk sooo … what’s the purpose of the neutral with 220 ? I understand how it makes the outlet rated for 110, but why?? Why do we need a 220 dryer outlet rated for 110? Do these newer units use both 220 and 110?
Also curious to know if there’s return current on neutral with 220, I assume from another video of yours there wouldn’t be because the unit balances its usage .. 🤔
Cheers
@@bdubs8620 the 240 parts use the other hot as it is return. But some parts in the dryer/stove run on 120v so the 120v parts use the neutral
@@Stevenj120volts
I had figured manufacturers would have step down transformers in their equipment.. the neutral with 220 has always made me question why..
Cheers
@@bdubs8620 newly designed stuff like heat pumps will have a transformer if it needs it but old designs did this in stead
L is for laundry kids
If someone was working on that and didn't already know that, he or she needs to stop being an electrician.
@@jessiejames683 I posted a survey 50% of the electricians that responded had it backwards
That's what ypu get with US grid. I can plug my dryer into any recepticle i want in my house becouse all of them are the same and all of them can take 3500w load.
@aleksandarl6975 you are confused the different types of receptacle are both rated for the same watts and amps. The different type is an old receptacle with not ground. The USA system is head and shoulders above the eu
@@Stevenj120volts i'm aware of that, but that's not what i ment, i was talking about is that you have to have diferent type of the recepticle for high load appliances in the US, while we here in eastern europe can plug ours where ever we want becouse all outlets are the same (schuko), and i can simply unplug my phone charger in the kitchen and plug the dryer there instead if i want to, but if you want to move yours that takes some electrical work 1st.
@aleksandarl6975 well that's not true... I just when to Germany and Paris it was only 3 hours apart and the receptacles where totally different you type f type a type b. The uk is different. It's total mess over there
@aleksandarl6975 the usa(not counting Alaska) covers an area the same size as London to Baghdad. With one complete standardized system. You guys have a mess of like 20 systems in the same size area.
@@Stevenj120voltsparts of France (even if you can plug rest of the europe plug to french outlet) and UK have their own wierd thing, fortunately i don't live there, outlets being only the tip of the iceberg why🤣. Rest of the europe is fine and adhere to 1 electrical standard, like what you saw in Germany. French and rest of europe, apart from UK plugs are compatible in most cases, as most (can't remember when was the last time i saw one that doesn't) newer schuko plugs produced have extra hole for french ground pin.