Im laying Granit Safe T 2mm in a walk in level shower area coved on 3 sides. I will be welding the corner 45 deg butterfly seams. The multicoloured welding rod specified is 4mm round. What size U shape seam groove is required, (width and depth) for welding? Is a speed weld nozzle with small narrow air slide appropriate?
I like the position my cut on the other side of the straight edge so that the small end getting cut off is on the other side if that makes sense, you'll have more weight on the seam this way so nothing will move on you, Ive learned this helps prevent the peaking you were talking about, I use straight blades too. But if this works for you with that blade then thats what matters.
So does he lay the glue first and whilst the glue is wet overlap and cut and press the edges onto the glue or does he cut, separate the edges, put the glue down, and then press together. It seems simple but I cant see where glue is mentoned.
Proper tradesman using on the job methods rather than a pretty boy in a suit and perfect lighting and conditions laying a floor to nice gentle harp music after having read a pamphlet 😂 good stuff mate....
Would it cause any issues to just slightly peel back and add a small thin bead of glue to help bind the join together? Obviously not so much glue that it creats a bubble
dont think so they should use clear seam sealer if its domestic vinyl or a weld that is close to colour if its commercial vinyl like you might see in hospital for example
Well I'll be darned, here in the USA our home improvement stores, Lowes, Home Depot, do not carry the concave blades. They have the hook blades, but not the concave. Would the hook blade work better for us than the regular straight blade?
Private Lender actually you can purchase concave blades at any Contractor flooring supply house. I only use the concave blade to scour the floor then the hook blade to finish the cut. Saves blades as well!
That's a good question. I had to find a place in Aberdeen, Scotland. On the net. I found a place called Toolstation. The blades are "Stanley 5192B". I hope this helps.
HELP PLEASE: I seriously needed just this help AND MORE, the vinyl we want to use (that we used before) is so thick that cutting through the double layer is impossible for us--at least the way we thought it had to be done. We this vinyl in some other rooms awhile back when my two brothers were here from out of state--neither myself, husband, nor one of my brothers had the strength to cut through both layers of this vinyl without lifting the blade as we thought it had to be done. I was surprised to see you scoring the top layer like that repeatedly and lifting your blade. When we tried doing it by lifting the blade and doing it more than once the seam would not match correctly. Just the one brother could do it without lifting the blade and cutting more than once and he will not be here to help us this time. Somehow we need to figure out how to do this, your method is different and maybe we can do that.... Before we used a brand new blade in our utility knife, just the regular kind, do you think this concave blade you recommend will make all the difference for us?? What I can remember, when we did it before, although the bade would cut the second layer, and cut through some parts of the second layer, it only scored many parts, like a dotted line, some cut, some scored. But we thought we could not score it over and over as you did and lifted it up to find the mess. Any extra advice for us from what I've mentioned? I was hoping there might be some sort of electric cutting tool I could use to do this, that is what I was on here searching for. Surely we are not alone in our inability to be able to cut through these two layers for a seamless looking seam? I'm hoping this concave blade will be the answer. We have some scrap pieces from the first job to practice with.
It's possible to get knife blade attachments for Fein multi tools that will cut vinyl and carpet, but I've never needed to try it so I don't know how this would with seams. I too have had difficulty trying to seam vinyl for a replacement patch and am going to try again with a concave stanley blade.
Double cutting vinyl for tight seams with no welding weakens one side of the shot because the bottom cut edge you pull out takes some of the adhesive away with that scrap piece and this type of method fails in the future. We usualy trim one edge and trace cut the top edge with either scriber or lino cutter, this way we make sure bottom edge is not disturbed and stuck good so it wouldn't peak. Unfortunately, your way of cutting vinyl for tight seams are not acceptable in N. America
been doing it like him for ages myself never an issue only difference id cut join in one go no scribe cuts and would have cut on the other side of straight edge to keep weight on join so it wouldnt move
Thanks Man. Great video. Answered all my questions and showed me how to do it right. Without any b.s or over explaining things to death. Thanks again
This guy knows his stuff! And his thumbs are working overtime ;)
Wow. This is a great Technique! Had never heard of it. Thank you !!!
Hi Danny and thank you for your video,i learned everything from you and now i work fitting the vinyl.
With his skill level he already knew what it was going to look like before he finished. good job!
Great video mate! Very informative. Provided me all the information I required for my homes linoleum flooring repair/renovation. Thank you!!!
Excellent advise. Cutting the seams together means they HAVE to match up perfectly
Great technique to cut the vinyl flooring. Thanks
Im laying Granit Safe T 2mm in a walk in level shower area coved on 3 sides. I will be welding the corner 45 deg butterfly seams. The multicoloured welding rod specified is 4mm round. What size U shape seam groove is required, (width and depth) for welding? Is a speed weld nozzle with small narrow air slide appropriate?
I like the position my cut on the other side of the straight edge so that the small end getting cut off is on the other side if that makes sense, you'll have more weight on the seam this way so nothing will move on you, Ive learned this helps prevent the peaking you were talking about, I use straight blades too. But if this works for you with that blade then thats what matters.
yes i agree with all of this are you my vinyl twin LOL
also no scribing just one clean cut never take blade out untill app 6 inches from other end
@@jb-es5zj lol everyone does stuff differently but I always love seeing when guys do stuff the same as me
So does he lay the glue first and whilst the glue is wet overlap and cut and press the edges onto the glue or does he cut, separate the edges, put the glue down, and then press together. It seems simple but I cant see where glue is mentoned.
floor i glued prior to doing the join
That’s amazing. No heat welding.
Proper tradesman using on the job methods rather than a pretty boy in a suit and perfect lighting and conditions laying a floor to nice gentle harp music after having read a pamphlet 😂 good stuff mate....
When do you put the glue on never showed that thanks
How to glue is here www.colourflooring.co.uk/pages/vinyl-flooring-installation
Not everyone is gonna have a thumb either! 😂
Great work boss. Nice knife and straight edge too!
wait so, you tuck one piece of vinyl over another? Does this mean that the edges of the vinyl where not adhered with adhesive?
Christopher Angulo he pealed the under piece away, watch carefully
@3:40
You don't tuck anything. You overlap the next roll
Why dont you use a underscriber then you can cut the excess of the vinyl off then it will be sweet to weld it
Would it cause any issues to just slightly peel back and add a small thin bead of glue to help bind the join together? Obviously not so much glue that it creats a bubble
use a thing/product called seam sealer
Gr8 job got our vinyl laid seam sticks out mile they ran black sealant in middle of join on kitchen floor is supposed be like that
dont think so they should use clear seam sealer if its domestic vinyl or a weld that is close to colour if its commercial vinyl like you might see in hospital for example
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" I understand :)"
Well I'll be darned, here in the USA our home improvement stores, Lowes, Home Depot, do not carry the concave blades. They have the hook blades, but not the concave. Would the hook blade work better for us than the regular straight blade?
Private Lender actually you can purchase concave blades at any Contractor flooring supply house. I only use the concave blade to scour the floor then the hook blade to finish the cut. Saves blades as well!
Kenny, you do this for seaming? Scour with concave then cut through with hook blade?
Roofing blade try roofing supplier
How come you didn't use a seam sealer?
Our vinyl has a thick cushioned backing which kind of spreads out under the seam so it doesn’t need welding
Hi Daniel. Do you have contact details if I wanted you to lay some flooring in a property? Many thanks
great, very clear instructions!! Thanks
where do they sell concave blades
That's a good question. I had to find a place in Aberdeen, Scotland. On the net. I found a place called Toolstation.
The blades are "Stanley 5192B".
I hope this helps.
Brilliant vid mate new sub
HELP PLEASE: I seriously needed just this help AND MORE, the vinyl we want to use (that we used before) is so thick that cutting through the double layer is impossible for us--at least the way we thought it had to be done.
We this vinyl in some other rooms awhile back when my two brothers were here from out of state--neither myself, husband, nor one of my brothers had the strength to cut through both layers of this vinyl without lifting the blade as we thought it had to be done.
I was surprised to see you scoring the top layer like that repeatedly and lifting your blade. When we tried doing it by lifting the blade and doing it more than once the seam would not match correctly. Just the one brother could do it without lifting the blade and cutting more than once and he will not be here to help us this time.
Somehow we need to figure out how to do this, your method is different and maybe we can do that.... Before we used a brand new blade in our utility knife, just the regular kind, do you think this concave blade you recommend will make all the difference for us?? What I can remember, when we did it before, although the bade would cut the second layer, and cut through some parts of the second layer, it only scored many parts, like a dotted line, some cut, some scored. But we thought we could not score it over and over as you did and lifted it up to find the mess.
Any extra advice for us from what I've mentioned? I was hoping there might be some sort of electric cutting tool I could use to do this, that is what I was on here searching for. Surely we are not alone in our inability to be able to cut through these two layers for a seamless looking seam?
I'm hoping this concave blade will be the answer. We have some scrap pieces from the first job to practice with.
Okay, thanks.
Private L
It's possible to get knife blade attachments for Fein multi tools that will cut vinyl and carpet, but I've never needed to try it so I don't know how this would with seams.
I too have had difficulty trying to seam vinyl for a replacement patch and am going to try again with a concave stanley blade.
Andrew Stevens don't worry about that it's way better to use an electric Grover for commercial vinyl way faster and cost about 30-60 &
@@andrewschannel3635 I just picked up the hookey blade for my Fein and plan on getting the rubber flooring in today
Great video!
I see that in some demonstrations a seam sealer is used. Do you consider it to be unnecessary?
recomend seam sealer stops dust gathering in join and turning into black line
Thank you so much for uploading your perfect experience
Double cutting vinyl for tight seams with no welding weakens one side of the shot because the bottom cut edge you pull out takes some of the adhesive away with that scrap piece and this type of method fails in the future.
We usualy trim one edge and trace cut the top edge with either scriber or lino cutter, this way we make sure bottom edge is not disturbed and stuck good so it wouldn't peak.
Unfortunately, your way of cutting vinyl for tight seams are not acceptable in N. America
What??
zu1875lu What??
That's how we do it in Canada
@@wadephillips947 I am trained and certified in Western Canada and involved in flooring business for almost thirty years.
been doing it like him for ages myself never an issue only difference id cut join in one go no scribe cuts and would have cut on the other side of straight edge to keep weight on join so it wouldnt move
Thanks mate !
I used to do this job in oz,gave it up when my John Thomas slipped out of the leg of my shorts and I cut 50mm of loose foreskin off the end of him😱😱
I must be difficult to avoid that when you’re upside-down.
As an American his accent assures me I can do this lol
brilliant,wish you could come and do mine,ha.good vid
nothing like hitting the bottom
this guy knows
That’s not the best way mate! Try a recess scrubber will change your game big time
While using a straight edge, don't ever position your holding hand below your knife hand ffs lol, this is basic stuff, 1 slip and by bye finger
Tuck that thumb in buddy I haven't got any thumbs left just stumps now when that knife jumps that new floor now had DNA all over it
A dentist a minis a oral
Sounds like beckham
I thought exactly the same
@@Youkaydeano Londoner.
Not the way it sold in US no help
????