I am aligning the rear wheel by measuring the distance between the center of the wheel axis to the end of the swing arm back plate on both sides of the bike. I just use a ruler. If the distances are equal, it is fine. I agree, i consider the marks as useless.
One thing I didn't explain in the video is that it is a quick detach rear wheel as more usually found on trial bikes. The chain sprocket is locked in place to the swing arm by a hollow stub and nut. which is tightened independantly of the rear axle. The solid rear axle passes through the hollow stub. The chain tension is adjusted first by the right hand adjuster and the concentric stub is locked in place. Then the alignment of the rear wheel, which at this stage is free to move all over the place on the loose axle, is set by using the left hand adjuster and axle locknut. That's the theory but in practice only the left hand of the solid axle can be set by the adjuster and the right hand end of the axle, which is still free to move, shifts whist tightening up the axle nut. Hence, it is extremely difficult to set the rear wheel alignment properly. Any tips would be most appreciated. Thank you.
You seem to have found a method that works to align the rear wheel, but since you asked for input I'll put my two cents worth in (I have a 2021 Classic 500 in Stealth Black as well). I bought one of those wheel alignment tools that screws on to the rear sprocket and which you then use to align along the line of the chain. You have to take the chain guard off to use it but I found this method works for me. Using the string method I found to be useless. They're a strange and wonderful beast they are, getting an accurate reading for oil levels is an art in itself.
Thanks for the comment. I have a chain alignment tool as well but it doesn't help due to the quick detach wheel because the chain run is always in line with the swing-arm whatever the wheel axle is doing. I am trying to put a video together explaining the problem. I know what you mean about the oil level. I topped mine up believing it was low and overfilled it. I didn't know that if you put the bike on the sidestand at any time after stopping the engine, the oil does a runner into an internal compartment or wormhole or something. Lesson now learned!
@@ridetheslowlane6642 I have also noted how dirty the oil was on the first change, and did and extra one at 2000km (1200ish miles). I'll be doing the second scheduled change today or tomorrow (6000km) and will be interested to see how it looks. I'm using a full instead of semi synthetic since it's easier to get where I live (rural Australia) and it can get pretty hot here plus the bike already runs fairly hot. I also have an Interceptor and it's amazing how clean the oil was at the first oil change was compared to the 500. I've done a number of modifications, changed the front sprocket from the 17 to an 18 tooth, installed a booster plug, and replaced the entire exhaust with a freer flowing one from Hitchcocks which gave the engine a far more free revving nature. The engine didn't really feel properly run in until somewhere between 3000-3500km but now it's very nice indeed.
1st. I am an old retired machinist, tool & die maker/mold maker. "I like the pointer that you have made." I think this should be accurate enough, as long as you've center drilled the axle bolt accurately. If you want to dial your pointer in any more, you could make another one that is threaded with the same thread pitch as the axle adjustment bolts on the bike. Then when you measure from side to side you can count the revolution/partial revolution (somewhat like a micrometer) and dial it in on the first try (as long as the chain tension is correct). "I would settle for using what you have made." Measure the difference between left and right side and dial it in according to the adjusters thread pitch. I live in the US and work in inches and thousands of inch, but this is easily converted to metric. "Good job on the pointer!"
Thank you for the suggestions. I centre drilled the axle and bolt on a lathe so they are accurate. I didn't think of a threaded adjustable pointer - good suggestion which I will take up just for ease of all adjustments.
Good video to highlight the alignment problem. Like you, I could not make sense of the swing arm marks (2020 classic 500 'Tribute'). I now pack a small, 3m tape measure in the side case along with the tools. My bike has even more clutter in the form of the pannier frames (your clever tool would not work) but it is possible to stretch the tape straight between the swing arm pivot and axle centres. Careful measurement to
Yes easy , laser chain alignment tool place on rear sprocket shine up length of chain it will show if your to much to the left or right , straight chain " straight wheels.😊
I have one but it doesn't work with the Royall Enfield quick detach wheel. The chain sprocket is always in alignment as it bolts hard up to the swinging arm on its own stub axle and cannot be tilted left or right, unlike the rear wheel which is on its separate axle. In other words, the chain sprocket does not move with the wheel. If only life were so simple!
I bought a cheap tool of E-Bay that is magnetic. You place it on the rear wheel next to the sprocket, there’s a rod that go by the chain, by which you can see if the wheel is out of line.
As I've explained, chain alignment tools do not work with the Royal Enfield quick detach rear wheel because the chain sprocket is always in line with the swingarm even though at the same time the rear wheel can point anywhere! Thanks anyway.
Good to know about the alignment challenges with this bike! I have recently acquired a 2018 Classic which does track straight ahead...for now. I plan to make witness marks...punch marks or scribe lines...showing where things are back at the axle so that I can return there. I reckon there is the old stand by....trial and error. Set it, go ride, adjust, go ride again. These are welded, somewhat antiquated machines and even with dead nuts equal measurements both sides unloaded on the center stand, once you're on it, compressing the suspension and tires under load, things change.
I did try the 'trial and error' way in desparation. I can set the rear wheel pointed left, centre or right but the bike always veers to the right, whatever I do. At one point, I was so confused by it that I couldn't convince myself whether the wheel needed to be set more to the right or to the left (countersteering effects and all that!). Hence my trying to approach things more accurately. You are of course quite correct that these are hand welded machines aligned at the factory more by eye and a primitive worn jig than by robotic accuracy and, yes, things do move under load. The plastic swing arm bushes do allow the whole swinging arm to move under load from the drive chain, which can't help!
I'll be interested to hear of any alignment tips you get as I'm about to part ex my XSR700 for a Classic 500. But I'd of thought that tool you made would be spot on?
Hi great vidio i to have the same problem with my bullit adjusters are useless i got a tip from one of the indian users measuring the distance from the adjuster nut to the end of the adjuster bolt i to had my bike pulling to the right not to bad now but just cant get it perfect
I've have similar frustrations on my 2020 Bullet 500 Trials. Your sliding point tool assumes that the frame accuracy forward of the swing arm pivot right down to the headstock and front fork/wheel is going to be perfect. I have concluded that it is not. My latest method involves a steel straight edge with stand offs to get the measuring points on the rear wheel higher up (by clearing the mainstand).. and then measuring back to the front wheel on both sides front and back. It's a right faff that I have wasted hours working on....and guess what?..the bike still pulls to one side. I've actually given up trying to better the results that I have obtained and concluded that the frame and or wheels are manufactured to very lax standards of accuracy. Such is the quality of this model of motorcycle....It ain't perfect that's for sure!
Thanks for your comments. If the frame is off line forward of the swingarm pivot, then, as you say, my tool will not help. Luckily for me, the tool (quick to use) and a straight edge (tedious and slow to use) give the same result on my bike. Not the best quality but I still love the bike!
I am aligning the rear wheel by measuring the distance between the center of the wheel axis to the end of the swing arm back plate on both sides of the bike. I just use a ruler. If the distances are equal, it is fine. I agree, i consider the marks as useless.
One thing I didn't explain in the video is that it is a quick detach rear wheel as more usually found on trial bikes. The chain sprocket is locked in place to the swing arm by a hollow stub and nut. which is tightened independantly of the rear axle. The solid rear axle passes through the hollow stub. The chain tension is adjusted first by the right hand adjuster and the concentric stub is locked in place. Then the alignment of the rear wheel, which at this stage is free to move all over the place on the loose axle, is set by using the left hand adjuster and axle locknut. That's the theory but in practice only the left hand of the solid axle can be set by the adjuster and the right hand end of the axle, which is still free to move, shifts whist tightening up the axle nut. Hence, it is extremely difficult to set the rear wheel alignment properly. Any tips would be most appreciated. Thank you.
You seem to have found a method that works to align the rear wheel, but since you asked for input I'll put my two cents worth in (I have a 2021 Classic 500 in Stealth Black as well). I bought one of those wheel alignment tools that screws on to the rear sprocket and which you then use to align along the line of the chain. You have to take the chain guard off to use it but I found this method works for me. Using the string method I found to be useless.
They're a strange and wonderful beast they are, getting an accurate reading for oil levels is an art in itself.
Thanks for the comment. I have a chain alignment tool as well but it doesn't help due to the quick detach wheel because the chain run is always in line with the swing-arm whatever the wheel axle is doing. I am trying to put a video together explaining the problem. I know what you mean about the oil level. I topped mine up believing it was low and overfilled it. I didn't know that if you put the bike on the sidestand at any time after stopping the engine, the oil does a runner into an internal compartment or wormhole or something. Lesson now learned!
@@ridetheslowlane6642 I have also noted how dirty the oil was on the first change, and did and extra one at 2000km (1200ish miles). I'll be doing the second scheduled change today or tomorrow (6000km) and will be interested to see how it looks. I'm using a full instead of semi synthetic since it's easier to get where I live (rural Australia) and it can get pretty hot here plus the bike already runs fairly hot. I also have an Interceptor and it's amazing how clean the oil was at the first oil change was compared to the 500.
I've done a number of modifications, changed the front sprocket from the 17 to an 18 tooth, installed a booster plug, and replaced the entire exhaust with a freer flowing one from Hitchcocks which gave the engine a far more free revving nature. The engine didn't really feel properly run in until somewhere between 3000-3500km but now it's very nice indeed.
I also have a 2021 Stealth Black. It's done just over 1000 km and I haven't had any problems with the bike pulling to one side 🤞
Great little tool you made up. Should be good for the alignment 😊 👍
1st. I am an old retired machinist, tool & die maker/mold maker. "I like the pointer that you have made." I think this should be accurate enough, as long as you've center drilled the axle bolt accurately. If you want to dial your pointer in any more, you could make another one that is threaded with the same thread pitch as the axle adjustment bolts on the bike. Then when you measure from side to side you can count the revolution/partial revolution (somewhat like a micrometer) and dial it in on the first try (as long as the chain tension is correct). "I would settle for using what you have made." Measure the difference between left and right side and dial it in according to the adjusters thread pitch. I live in the US and work in inches and thousands of inch, but this is easily converted to metric. "Good job on the pointer!"
Thank you for the suggestions. I centre drilled the axle and bolt on a lathe so they are accurate. I didn't think of a threaded adjustable pointer - good suggestion which I will take up just for ease of all adjustments.
Nice tool! 🙌🏻
Good video to highlight the alignment problem. Like you, I could not make sense of the swing arm marks (2020 classic 500 'Tribute'). I now pack a small, 3m tape measure in the side case along with the tools. My bike has even more clutter in the form of the pannier frames (your clever tool would not work) but it is possible to stretch the tape straight between the swing arm pivot and axle centres. Careful measurement to
Yes easy , laser chain alignment tool place on rear sprocket shine up length of chain it will show if your to much to the left or right , straight chain " straight wheels.😊
I have one but it doesn't work with the Royall Enfield quick detach wheel. The chain sprocket is always in alignment as it bolts hard up to the swinging arm on its own stub axle and cannot be tilted left or right, unlike the rear wheel which is on its separate axle. In other words, the chain sprocket does not move with the wheel.
If only life were so simple!
I bought a cheap tool of E-Bay that is magnetic. You place it on the rear wheel next to the sprocket, there’s a rod that go by the chain, by which you can see if the wheel is out of line.
As I've explained, chain alignment tools do not work with the Royal Enfield quick detach rear wheel because the chain sprocket is always in line with the swingarm even though at the same time the rear wheel can point anywhere! Thanks anyway.
Good to know about the alignment challenges with this bike! I have recently acquired a 2018 Classic which does track straight ahead...for now. I plan to make witness marks...punch marks or scribe lines...showing where things are back at the axle so that I can return there. I reckon there is the old stand by....trial and error. Set it, go ride, adjust, go ride again. These are welded, somewhat antiquated machines and even with dead nuts equal measurements both sides unloaded on the center stand, once you're on it, compressing the suspension and tires under load, things change.
I did try the 'trial and error' way in desparation. I can set the rear wheel pointed left, centre or right but the bike always veers to the right, whatever I do. At one point, I was so confused by it that I couldn't convince myself whether the wheel needed to be set more to the right or to the left (countersteering effects and all that!). Hence my trying to approach things more accurately. You are of course quite correct that these are hand welded machines aligned at the factory more by eye and a primitive worn jig than by robotic accuracy and, yes, things do move under load. The plastic swing arm bushes do allow the whole swinging arm to move under load from the drive chain, which can't help!
I'll be interested to hear of any alignment tips you get as I'm about to part ex my XSR700 for a Classic 500. But I'd of thought that tool you made would be spot on?
Great tool by the way
Hi great vidio i to have the same problem with my bullit adjusters are useless i got a tip from one of the indian users measuring the distance from the adjuster nut to the end of the adjuster bolt i to had my bike pulling to the right not to bad now but just cant get it perfect
I've have similar frustrations on my 2020 Bullet 500 Trials. Your sliding point tool assumes that the frame accuracy forward of the swing arm pivot right down to the headstock and front fork/wheel is going to be perfect. I have concluded that it is not.
My latest method involves a steel straight edge with stand offs to get the measuring points on the rear wheel higher up (by clearing the mainstand).. and then measuring back to the front wheel on both sides front and back.
It's a right faff that I have wasted hours working on....and guess what?..the bike still pulls to one side.
I've actually given up trying to better the results that I have obtained and concluded that the frame and or wheels are manufactured to very lax standards of accuracy. Such is the quality of this model of motorcycle....It ain't perfect that's for sure!
Thanks for your comments. If the frame is off line forward of the swingarm pivot, then, as you say, my tool will not help. Luckily for me, the tool (quick to use) and a straight edge (tedious and slow to use) give the same result on my bike. Not the best quality but I still love the bike!