For cutting through polyurethane-based caulks around windows, I like to use an oscillating multitool with a scraper blade (no teeth). If you already have an oscillating tool then a scraper blade costs between $6 to $15 (about $10). If you're sealing a big gap with polyurethane caulk like vulkem, it's best to stuff some foam backer rod in the gap before you fill the gap with caulk. If you have a big and deep gap, I guess you could also spray some low-expansion foam in the gap to fill most of it (the window+door stuff) before you caulk the opening with a polyurethane caulk like vulkem 116. I like using vulkem 116 for sealing around windows. In Illinois, you can buy it at Menard's. I recently bought a tube on amazon because I wanted the almond color to match the trim around my garage, but I couldn't find that color in stock at local hardware stores.The almond color matched the color of the rustoleum almond oil paint that I used to paint both wood trim + the underside of an I-beam around my brick garage in Chicago. I re-caulked some windows in my house in Chicago with Vulkem 116 a few years ago, and I feel like it has held up pretty well. I think it's pretty good stuff. If I were installing a window, I would not rely on Vulkem or any other caulk as the sole method for mechanically attaching the window to the house. Some new windows are mounted by screwing a face flange on the window to framing. Other windows require window stops to be framed, and then the window sits against the stop. Then you just fasten another window stop strip on the other side, after you press in the window, to hold it in place. Or you might use special window trim screws to screw the frame of the window to wood framing on the inside through the sides of the window frame. The mechanical It depends on the style of window. You additionally want to caulk gaps after you install the window, but I think you want to use nails or screws to somehow attach the window to framing or else install it in a channel with window stops on the inside and outside of the window frame to hold it in place.
Window fastening is a science sometimes when renovating. In this case any method seems to be okay, wich works when you're not bound by warranties. Someone who looks to do this job once and only once would use fasteners and probably even custom 0.7mm steel trimming to protect and elongate life of the sealant. With trimming you'd put yourself in a situation where you have a very good protection while also having a visual indicator of wear that can be maintained and even replaced if neglected for a very long time.
Thanks for the tutorial I would recommend Tremco Dymonic 100 or Dymonic FC as your weather seal. TremGrip as your adhesive. Contact your local rep and they will most likely send you a tube of each to try and compare.
Interesting. I've never heard of polyurethane as a construction sealant! All the caulks at the orange store seem to be slowly being replaced with misleadingly labeled latex formulations. I guess that's the cheapest to make?
Coax seal is like a putty which can be used to seal all those caulk containers and other tubes of gunk. Its waterproof and sticks to plastic so it seals the air out fairly well. I like travels with geordies reccomendation sika 295
There's a difference between caulk and sealant..... Caulk cheap as shit 😂😂😂 Ever build STIXALL here in the UK is pretty good even sticks under water roofers use it 😂😂😂
Randomly stopped by to see how you’re doing. Your voice has come a long way. Hope things are looking up for you.
For cutting through polyurethane-based caulks around windows, I like to use an oscillating multitool with a scraper blade (no teeth). If you already have an oscillating tool then a scraper blade costs between $6 to $15 (about $10).
If you're sealing a big gap with polyurethane caulk like vulkem, it's best to stuff some foam backer rod in the gap before you fill the gap with caulk. If you have a big and deep gap, I guess you could also spray some low-expansion foam in the gap to fill most of it (the window+door stuff) before you caulk the opening with a polyurethane caulk like vulkem 116.
I like using vulkem 116 for sealing around windows. In Illinois, you can buy it at Menard's. I recently bought a tube on amazon because I wanted the almond color to match the trim around my garage, but I couldn't find that color in stock at local hardware stores.The almond color matched the color of the rustoleum almond oil paint that I used to paint both wood trim + the underside of an I-beam around my brick garage in Chicago.
I re-caulked some windows in my house in Chicago with Vulkem 116 a few years ago, and I feel like it has held up pretty well. I think it's pretty good stuff.
If I were installing a window, I would not rely on Vulkem or any other caulk as the sole method for mechanically attaching the window to the house. Some new windows are mounted by screwing a face flange on the window to framing. Other windows require window stops to be framed, and then the window sits against the stop. Then you just fasten another window stop strip on the other side, after you press in the window, to hold it in place. Or you might use special window trim screws to screw the frame of the window to wood framing on the inside through the sides of the window frame. The mechanical It depends on the style of window. You additionally want to caulk gaps after you install the window, but I think you want to use nails or screws to somehow attach the window to framing or else install it in a channel with window stops on the inside and outside of the window frame to hold it in place.
Yeah my idea was that I would mortar the window in place from the inside, however plans got changed.
Window fastening is a science sometimes when renovating. In this case any method seems to be okay, wich works when you're not bound by warranties.
Someone who looks to do this job once and only once would use fasteners and probably even custom 0.7mm steel trimming to protect and elongate life of the sealant. With trimming you'd put yourself in a situation where you have a very good protection while also having a visual indicator of wear that can be maintained and even replaced if neglected for a very long time.
Thanks for the tutorial
I would recommend Tremco Dymonic 100 or Dymonic FC as your weather seal. TremGrip as your adhesive.
Contact your local rep and they will most likely send you a tube of each to try and compare.
Couldnt find any local sellers
have you tried bitumen? they even sell it in a caulking gun cartridge
Hey nice tutorial
I’m going to use in wider gaps in block and concrete
Interesting. I've never heard of polyurethane as a construction sealant! All the caulks at the orange store seem to be slowly being replaced with misleadingly labeled latex formulations. I guess that's the cheapest to make?
Does it adhear to polyethylene film?
Coax seal is like a putty which can be used to seal all those caulk containers and other tubes of gunk. Its waterproof and sticks to plastic so it seals the air out fairly well.
I like travels with geordies reccomendation sika 295
Structural spray foam is your friend
Thank you.
The little moth is cute ☺️
Great stuff
You say aluminum like my Scottish husband. Adorable 💜
First
There's a difference between caulk and sealant..... Caulk cheap as shit 😂😂😂
Ever build STIXALL here in the UK is pretty good even sticks under water roofers use it 😂😂😂
caulk is just the term for stuff in tubes really
@@RinoaL just for finishing edges that are not flush or straight not for sticking or sealing shit 😂 reminds me of grouting for tiles 😂
You use emojis like a pre-teen lol