So I followed all the instructions. After reassembling it gave the same red flashes. Called Rheem. While on hold went back to water heater to get the model number. Magically the blue light was flashing. Looked and there was a little flame. I turned up the thermostat and it came on full throttle. Needless to say I owe you a great big thank you. Awesome 😎
awesome - I actually have to do this from time to time. I would say once every couple of months - but it's takes around 30 seconds. Enjoy Brother! Good job
This worked!! Brand new hot water heater and it's been a damn nightmare!! Had it installed and next morning my basement was flooded!! Had a bad pressure release valve and then it keeps blinking and not lighting if pilot goes out! Thank you sooo much!!
Another man was talking about the foil as well but didn't explain like you so I didn't understand what actually to do so thank you, I have the red and white wire unplugged and will try with my son helping me when he gets back home. I will leave an update on here later on how it worked, thank you and God Bless everyone and your families.
You dont have to do the foil...as I found out. Just wiggle the power cable loose wait about 5 minutes and push it back in. It comes out straight up from the unit - not down. So wiggle it out.... not down, if that makes any sense.
This Worked! - Tried all the other gimmicks. nothing worked. Pressed the foil across the circuit board for about 30 sec. put it back together and voila! fired right up! Sweet ! Thanks!
100% on board with this video. Exactly what is needed for a solid DIY repair.... He says exactly what he found worked for him. No nonsense, no ridiculous BS about who cares. THANK YOU for just making a solid, simple, DIY, video.
Unplugging, waiting, and then re-starting the pilot did not reset mine. I tried waiting for various amounts of time. This suggestion did reset mine: light the pilot as normal....continue holding in the pilot button until the blinking starts. It'll still blink 7 times, but keep holding in the pilot button....keep holding.....keep holding....maybe even 2+ minutes....keep holding it in. Eventually, the light indicated normal blinking (or turns blue if that's your model.) Release the pilot button finally and set the temperature. Thanks, Daniel! I just wanted to add this option to the comments.
@NancyAdams Thank you so much!!! Your recommendation worked!!!! I did not have to take anything apart. Just held the pilot for like 3 or 4 minutes a day it went to blue and fired up. Life saver!
Wow! Thanks for this 🙏 I literally just followed these instructions to a T and it worked for me without having to do what the video suggested (even though I would’ve been happy to go that route if needed). Now that we’re three years out from when you left this comment, I’d be curious to know if you had any recurring issues with yours afterward?
Holy crap! It worked. I saw another video where a guy pressed down on the igniter for a few minutes after the pilot flame was on but that wasn't working. It did take me 2 tries but I likely didn't get that foil on every damn surface. Lifesaver! TY Dan
Glad it helped you - know that you may have to repeat the process from time to time, maybe once a month. But honestly saving the money was always a 'worth it' for me. ....and truly, you just have to unplug it and wait about 2 minutes and plug it back in, re-light the pilot light. that simple. The foil thing was just buying time lol
I have this model and I followed recommendation of one of the comments below and it fixed it, much easier. You hold the pilot and ignite, hold it, hold it, hold it, literally for like 3 or 4 minutes. It will begin to flash the red signal 7 times for the error message. Just keep holding!!! After three or four minutes of holding down it will begin to flash blue! Just set your temperature, all done.
This worked for me! To be more clear: Hold pilot down, push ignite one time, continue to hold down the pilot for 3-4 minutes until the blue light comes on. Once it comes on set the temp to your desire. You should hear it fire right up!
I was literally getting ready to try this. I had the pilot lit with 7 blinks. Turned the knob to the hot position. Still 7 blinks. Tapped on it with my finger and viola!!! This worked for me anyway. If it does it again. I will be trying the tin foil. Thank you
Dan Sheperd, quite a few of the other repairmen, (experienced) say to never turn the dial above the "A" as it will cause the valve to run the heater so hot that it will shut down the valve. They say if you need it higher than "Hot", you need a larger water heater.
Maybe you're right - ive kept me pretty hot for the 20 years Ive lived there and never had an issue. This issue started about a year ago - if people want their water hotter, that's fine - that's what the settings are there for. Your info is great for advisement though, thank you.
you are a life saver i worked on the thing all ready to give up finally i got that code 7 i did excactly what you said and did and that baby fired right up thanks for saving me a ton of time and money
Holy crap! It friggin worked! I put a piece of foil across the whole circuit board and pushed every square inch against all the contacts! No wait time at all! Thank you!
Well having no other options and wanting to have a hot shower in the morning, I tried your foil trick. Worked first time. Now I can go to bed...Thanks for that. MB. Now my only worry is Coronavirus.
Daniel Shepherd while leaving knob in the hot position and everything on?? Also as soon as i lite pilot i got this 7 flash error. I went back im house and then back im gargae 20 mins later to check on the flashing to see if anything changed and now its just doing the 1 flash which means is fine. But my question is will it continue to do this 7 flash thing until the problem is fixed or does it just do it initially and then go away like in my case?? I find it strange that it did it and now it’s corrected itself unless it only does it initially when the pilot first lights.
@@benjaminsalopek3394 So about once a month or so I see a red light, I unplug the power wait, and replug it back in after a few minutes. it works for me and I can live it. Some really cant stand to have their "unit going out" or so I have researched. The unit is about 300$ on eBay. I see the unit daily and give it a quick 1 second look - no worries for me. Again I am not at all affiliated with gas repair, but this works for me .
I had the 7-blink error and used the “factory reset” method (10-10-10) to clear it. Another DIY channel describes it in detail to reset after a 4-blink error. I suspect it can clear any persistent error with this particular unit. If the error continues, try replacing the circuit board. Finally, the entire unit if the error continues. Good luck!
Glad to hear it... mind you, you will need to check the heater light daily - just a glance will do. If it flashes red again just unplug it as in the video, wait 5 minutes and pug it back in. Reset the pilot light and off you go. My turns red about once a month.
Thanks Daniel, going to try this tomorrow as I've just gotten the news of the "7 flashes" today. You mentioned shutting the gas off, how long to wait before turning it back on? 10 minutes enough, or give it an hour?
My Problem is the Thermostat, it won't turn on the burner even with the pilot being lit, but has the 7 flash blink. I was able to reset the board without having to wait the 2 hours. Just rubbing (shorting) with the foil, will discharge the capacitor on the board. I also noticed when I disconnected the power (thermocuple) and put the selector in the OFF position, the light becomes a fast steady blink until it runs out of power and the light dies off. My water heater was still under warranty (two years old of the 6 year) so I was able to get a Free (under warranty) replacement for the Control Unit. In the mean time, I can just reset the board and get it to fire up for at least one cycle, and get hot water for a shower. Always check for warranty coverage first. 2-4 days free shipping, FedEx overnight shipping also available for extra charge.
I've had to 'foil' mind a few times in the past few months - but it still works. sometimes it stays for months, sometimes for days - either way, it's a quick 1 minute fix. Way easier than buying a whole new 300$ unit.
@@shep78Gmail If it's still under warranty the control unit is free. It seems that almost every gas water heater controller is made by Honeywell. You'd think they figured out a fix by now. I'm going to try swapping just the circuit board when I get the replacement unit. (I really want to avoid having to drain the tank to replace the whole unit)
@@joelmonleon6471 You can find them on ebay for about 200$ - replacing the unit is not too difficult (youtube videos on that too). Mine is over 8 years old - so I doubt there is a warranty. I have no problems doing the foil thing though until I HAVE to replace it :)
@@shep78Gmail My controller is a WV8860C1000, lowest is like $275. All the eBay ones I saw are WV8840 models. Not sure if they are compatible. The last two water heaters were both covered under warranty, so I did not have to pay full price, to replace. A few years back, I replaced a water heater for my aunt, similar to the one I have, the controller also failed after two years, but warranty covered it. The original water heater lasted well over 30 years.
Can anyone comment how often this problem comes back? Have a 2019 Rheem with this Honeywell that gave me 7 blinks today. Ran this procedure and it worked when none of the other tricks (10-10-10) worked. Just curious to know if this is something that will continue to happen or not.
@@isinet2813 you move the knob to extra hot for 10 seconds, hot for 10 seconds and then prime for 10 seconds. It’s mentioned in other videos. I must say though, I did the foil on the front of the circuit board two nights ago and it has not *yet* reset. I called the number on the water heater and Rheem is sending new parts so just trying to have hot water until the new parts get here sometime in the next week or so.
@@JakeGuilbo Did you disconnect the power wire? Leave off for 5-10 min? I got to mine today & started w/ the normal instructions on the heater label, and it came back to normal blue light & working like nu (2½ yrs old). I'm in SoCal & we've had a weird blizzard/rainstorm/snow/wind/hail/cats & dogs, etc. It's inside a little hut structure & the wind & rain just blew the door away, so I suspect that's what caused it to shut off. My next project now is to seal the aluminum door to the hut so a wind gust won't blow it open again.
Had a flood in my basement last night and my status light is doing the 7 blinks. Any chance this will work after the unit has been submerged in water for several hours 😞
I was an HVAC tech for Sears 12 years ago. The older valves were tremendously better. You would replace a genuinely faulty valve and walk away. I just replaced a Residio valve on an AO Smith for a 4 flash code and the new one, right out of the box, was giving a 7 flash code. Well I knew that was BS. I tried shorting rhe board with the foil and it fired right up. There is a capacitor on the circuit board that's not discharging completely and when you use the foil, it's discharged and the circuit can reboot. This method works. The circuit design is lousy but tech support will never admit that. This problem will magically go away after the industry has used up all the crap controls in stock.
I did this today, but not sure if I connected that three colors cable that goes behind the motherboard. It is sitting tight, but since I am not able to see if it went inside the pins or not. The heater is working fine so far. Not sure if that is going to cause some danger (if it was not connected well/right).
So your video was plan B, but plane A worked , and plan A is after you turn it on from pressing the pilot and the ignition button, dial it to very hot for 15 second then hot for 15 second then back to pilot for 15 second do it 3 times and that’s how you reset it without opening it . Still thank you for a very educational video .
this works only if it's a glitch. If you have a problem the code will come back. in my case resetting worked for few hours and the 7 flashes came back. Rheem sent me the burner assembly and the controller under warranty. I replaced the whole controller first including gas valve. code came back same day. then I replaced the burner assembly pretty much everything and so far it's good. I know the pilot was ok the hi temp sensor ok since it has it own code and I watched the controller cycle off so no issue with hi temp. My guess it was the thermopile. Its voltage output gets weak so there isn't enough power to run the valve, Hence I get the 7 flashes. If your heater is out of warranty try replacing the sensors first they are inexpensive. Don't buy from Rheem they charge a lot more for same sensor.
So I tried this last night on my slightly different BW w/ Honeywell control and couldn't get it to work. Same 7 flash error code. So I unplugged the "power" cables all night and tried this method again the next morning and it WORKED. Another thing I did different in the morning is to ground each 3 pin to the metal tank instead of the metal valve itself. This wasn't very clear in the video so I tried this approach but I'm not sure if it made a difference. Btw, the lone pin on the middle right of the valve control is the ground so i'm sure joining the other 2 pins to this one would have the same effect as touching the metal case. Anyhow, where do I send the beer to exactly? lol! Thanks mate, you helped a fellow IT man solve his heater problem :D
There is another way of resetting these as well. The pilot knob, you hold it down like you are lighting the pilot, hit the igniter and all that. Then you want to continue to hold down the knob until your red light starts blinking normally again. That take 4-5 minutes. It does some kind of reset to it too. Im going to try your way because mine is blinking 7 times, every other day now. Your way could be a hard reset or something. Thanks for the vid bud. I will let you know how it works for me.
@@amygoulart7657 There is another video in TH-cam, that shows how to remove the top cover. Then rub the circuit board contacts with the foil and reassemble.
Wow, I had this problem and fixed it but not this way. I just set the knob to off. It will stop blinking in 3-5 min. After that i just relight the pilot. Sometimes it struggles to start so i quickly turn the knob up to the hottest and back down to pilot and try again. Eventually it starts blinking blue. I would have tried this method if mine failed
The warranty company just sent us a new one. I replaced the whole thing, and I get the same 7 flashes error code about an hour later . Not sure what is wrong
It's been years since I lived there. I know Google and forums were a great place to start. ....I assume, you MAY need to replace the heater. They are about 700 at lowes, and it's not rocket science. Just ask lowes rep to help you etc.
You can take the whole thing apart and put it back together in like 3 minutes. Would it have been that hard to actually do it, instead of rambling while haphazardly waving your camera around in front of a perfectly functional device? The footage might as well have been black, and the instruction might as well have been a comment on some forum somewhere. 1:51 I'm suppose to ground the board to the valve pins? What are you even saying? Why not just show it? I feel like I'm watching a toddler trying and explain what they did at daycare to their mother.
Hard to believe that brand new unit on the day one gives 7 flash code. Let's see if this works. I may install a little manual knob with foil on the other side.
@@prednosttrake Unplug it- wait 10 full minutes. Remove the unitl like the video and rub foil on the bacck. Plug everything back in. Place the dial in 'piliot light'. Hold it in, and push the LIGHTER button about 10 times. Release both and turn dial to desired temp. The blue light should flash and you should hear the gas heater ignite.
If this doesnt work for you - then: is this the SAME UNIT? ARE YOU SURE YOU ARE GETTING 7 FLASHES? if no to either of these please continue your search I guess - EBAY sells the units for about 200$
@@shep78Gmail performance platinum 50gal. Same Honeywell unit as yours. Tested gas for leaks with soap and water. I just put timer for 10min and last attempt. I can't find where this sensor sits. It is not on the bottom like some other models show.
I followed this video and not sure if I didn’t do something correctly or what but it didn’t work for me! BUT I did follow other commenters who said they turned it on and continued to hold the pilot button until it blinked blue ! And sure enough 3 minutes later it blinked blue ! I haven’t had it blink red as of now but I sure hope it stays that way !
My light started the 7 red blinks just earlier this week. I'm able to turn it off - wait, and turn it back on and re-light, however it's only lasting a day or two now. Should I short the board? I'm thinking I'll try unplugging the red/white wires for an hour or so first but just curious - are you still having to fuss with this now that you've found the fix for itt? Thanks for making the video (and keeping it quick and straight forward ;))
I unplugged the red/white wires and let them sit for 20 min but that did nothing (still went out like a day later). I’m going to short the board I guess. Will report back. Ugh. So annoying this issue
@@oSTYNCLSYo It's been 2 days now and I'm still blinking blue with no issues. However I didn't short the board, last thing I was going to try before doing that was this - read this someplace else as a potential reset. To reset the valve first turn off the tank let sit for 30 seconds (start that 30 seconds AFTER the blinking red light finishes on shutting it down). Then turn the nob to very hot and let stand for 30 seconds, then to hot for 30 seconds then relight the tank. - Mine fired up a little differently so I'm hoping this sticks. If it goes out in the next few days I'll report back.
Hello, I originally had a 7 error code then after following the steps in the post I was able to clear the error. But I still have an issue. I can light the pilot but as soon as I let go the pilot goes out and I still have normal operation code. I turn it off wait 10 min or more it still does the same thing and it flashing normal. I still at a loss. Its been two weeks without hot water and every service tech is 3 weeks or more behind. I am just about ready to go buy an electric hot water heater and shut my gas service off.
I'm having this happen to me, I am not sure sure what you mean in the foil step, can you give more details? I've rubbed the board with aluminum foil but not really sure how I am shorting anything when the power is disconnected :P.
Youre not... the foil just buys you time while the computer battery winds down. Simply remove the power, wait 5 minutes - plug it back in, then re light the pilot - you have to do this about once a month.
wait 2 hours? ...unplug it and wait about 5 minutes. Then plug it back in - even the foil is not needed. this will work as a bandaid for yyears - just keep an eye on the light. I would have to reset every two weeks or so - took 4 minutes and was free. PLUS you're prolonging the life of the unit :)
Thank you for sharing, however this method did not fix my water heater issue. I have a Rheem Ultra Low NOx gas water heater with 7 red blinks (even through I can see the flame where the pilot still lid), and like to share my method hoping this would help someone with the same issue that I have. In my case I was able to reset the water heater by turn it off for 5 minutes and re-lid the water heater, but as soon as I take a long warm shower or my washing machine is using hot water and some one is taking warm shower at the same time, it will shut off the heater and gave a 7 red blinks error. I have try many reset methods that shown on youtube + google with no luck. Here is what I did: 1 Flush the tank and fill it with 4 gallon of cleaning vinegar then add water and leave it over night then flush it ( this will clean up all the calcium built up inside the tank) Result : still got 7 Flash after water heater running for a while. 2. Shut off my gas valve and remove the Honeywell valve controller (the white box) then cleaning the water temperature probe with vinegar to remove all the build up. Reinstall it, but still same result 7 blinks. I kept have to reset the system every times this happened. Finally I found this bypass method to solve this 7 blinks error for my water heater: Shut off your gas valve, Remove the burner from your water heater. Use the Kapton tape to wrap around the thermistor sensor ( the 4" copper probe ) Now use aluminum foil food wrap to wrap outside that thermistor sensor. Reinstall everything back and water heater work like new. It is been running for more than 2 weeks now with no issue. I hope this would help someone with the same issue like mine!
I think this not a good method of fixing the controller. If not find the root cause of what happened on the controller it will happen again. Am I right?
didn’t work for me but i called the phone number on the tank and talked to manufacturer. my heater was still be under warranty. for 12 years and all parts were sent for free.
I guess what you're actually doing is discharging the capacitors on the board then put the aluminum foil to ground I wonder if you could put a permanent jumper wire from the ground on the circuit board to a water pipe it's brass or copper I did notice with my unit when I put it on very hot I would have this problem so now I leave it on warm
You will hear the heater kicking in (the burner) and the BLUE light should be flashing, yours MAYBE white - Hopefully you have the same unit in the video - which would go with your question. if not, then..... WHY are OU WATCHING A VIDEO not related to your unit?!!
You leave it turned up that high???? Your gas bill is big. Ghat damn. You wont feelba difference at Aor B because your body literally cant tolerate those temps. But if you have it that hot everyone can shower at the same time
when you unplug it, wait for the light to stop.... rub foil on the back of the circuit board. and plug it back in. You MAY need to re-light the pilot light. I am doing this about every 2 weeks..... mine realy might be going on, but this trick keeps working.
Daniel Shepherd I’ve tried unsuccessfully to solve this issue. I don’t think I’m resetting the circuit board correctly. Would love to connect to hear your advice. Thank you!
So the wires do come out but they are snug in there. You need to rock them out dont pull down, but pull back. That black piece on top of the wires lifts out with the wires attached. I would comb through the unit on youtube and see if you can see it being done - not difficult, but yes, rock them back and forth bulling straight up not pulling the wires down.
Hi Daniel. I noticed white teflon tape on your gas connections. White is normally used for water, not gas. The gas tape is colored yellow and is only used on threaded connections. I see you have white tape on your compression fitting. There should not be any tape or pipe dope on this connection. I also noticed the teflon tape is shredded, which normally means it was wound around the threaded fittings in the wrong direction. Not a hater, but as a landlord, liability comes first! Gas kills. Not just from fire or explosion, but carbon monoxide from leaks from incorrect connections. I don't know if your foil technique works. I do know that Honeywell gas valves DO NOT!
Thanks, Nick, it's been that way for the past 8 years.... when I did the fitting I used the tape then used soap and water to check the line. No issues since - I'll change them out just to be safe. And Yes, this method works great - saved me the 200$ to replace it.
The yellow teflon tape, just like the blue is all a gimmick. Pipe dope works for the threaded connection just fine and is not color coded. UPC does not require yellow, blue, or grey just the use of a proper thread lubricant. Standard white teflon used properly, usually just two wraps thick is all that is needed. Been a union plumber for awhile and tired of the gimmicks HD, Lowes or others use just to make a buck.
@@rudjeep1 I know - ive been usinig this stuff for years and my pipes have been this way for going on 9 years. :) Still people like to live by the UNION code :)
@@jermainereid5815 you are welcome to try. you need to count the flashes and look on the unit. the type of flashes will tell you what is wrong. If it's 7 flashes, then pauses.... then this trick usually works. if it;s another pattern of flashes, you may need to investigate further.
Just turned off and let it cool off, it will keep doing it anyway these things are a joke. Thats our payment for climate change, replace it every couple years
My code 7 problem was fixed by cleaning the thermocoupler. Had cold water, checked 12 year old Rheem water heater in an outdoor enclosure one mile from the salty ocean, it was completely off, no light. Restarted, now showing the code 7. Tried the many ‘fixes’, tin foil to circuit board, battery clicking the valves, checked ohm resistance of valves (10-13) mine were 12, and finally the Pilot/High Heat/Hot/Pilot 10 second reset procedure several times, no change. Each ‘fix’ resulted in the same scenario, it would start, run, still showing code 7 then after a few minutes show the normal operation code of one light every 3 seconds. This would last until the next day when I would find it completely shut off again, no light. It’s a 12 year old WH so I thought about buying a whole new one, contemplated just buying a new controller, then thought about buying just a new thermocoupler, finally decided to just remove the burner assembly and clean everything up like shiny new. Reassembled, started up, light code now shows normal operation and it has been fine ever since. So apparently code 7 will appear for many reasons, including if the pilot doesn’t stay lit for whatever reason, mine apparently being the assembly was just dirty. Note: this is my second Rheem water heater. First lasted 12 years, got drenched in a storm and was never the same. This unit, again 12 years old (but in a much better outdoor enclosure) shows no rust outside or inside burner area and still no sediments on flushing. When I finally have to replace it with a new one it will most likely be another Rheem!
Uh... thank you. You did far more leg work than I did. Glad you got it fixed. Feel free to make your own video on your fix - maybe you'll help a few thousand people too. :)
The old electromechanical work the best I guess Honeywell mustn't making enough money is it going to inconvenience everybody then they're going to tell you it's safer btime the electromechanical work fine for many years welcome to the 21st century
Thanks for sharing Daniel. I had the same 7-Flashes issue but found a different solution after calling Rheem service desk. Here's a video on how I did it: th-cam.com/video/7ZrApWtz4_0/w-d-xo.html
it was so simple what I described was more than enough. Of the hundreds that commented saying this worked, finally after years - you come alone and leave a negative comment. Congrats ;) Not that hard to figure out, and it will save you hundreds.
@@shep78Gmail I just don’t understand DIY videos that don’t actually show the how to…. But either way the fact you helped hundreds save hundreds is priceless….
@@ngarci8040 I'm sorry brother - it just didn't seem realistic to cause the failure again when the fix was pretty straightforward. I am glad to help you - was there a step that you had a problem with? after it's all said and done, you literally unplug the unit, and wait 5 minutes then plug it back in, and restart the pilot light.
Instead of thanking you guys should make a donation to this gentleman for saving yall some cash
haha.... that would be welcomed. I am glad you were able to save some cash. ;) Shep78@gmail.com is my paypal account :)
I was about to give up, when a voice spoke to me about how we will not go quietly into the night. Then I saw your video, saved me $450.
So I followed all the instructions. After reassembling it gave the same red flashes. Called Rheem. While on hold went back to water heater to get the model number. Magically the blue light was flashing. Looked and there was a little flame. I turned up the thermostat and it came on full throttle. Needless to say I owe you a great big thank you. Awesome 😎
awesome - I actually have to do this from time to time. I would say once every couple of months - but it's takes around 30 seconds. Enjoy Brother! Good job
This worked!! Brand new hot water heater and it's been a damn nightmare!! Had it installed and next morning my basement was flooded!! Had a bad pressure release valve and then it keeps blinking and not lighting if pilot goes out! Thank you sooo much!!
Another man was talking about the foil as well but didn't explain like you so I didn't understand what actually to do so thank you, I have the red and white wire unplugged and will try with my son helping me when he gets back home. I will leave an update on here later on how it worked, thank you and God Bless everyone and your families.
You dont have to do the foil...as I found out. Just wiggle the power cable loose wait about 5 minutes and push it back in. It comes out straight up from the unit - not down. So wiggle it out.... not down, if that makes any sense.
This Worked! - Tried all the other gimmicks. nothing worked. Pressed the foil across the circuit board for about 30 sec. put it back together and voila! fired right up! Sweet ! Thanks!
100% on board with this video. Exactly what is needed for a solid DIY repair.... He says exactly what he found worked for him. No nonsense, no ridiculous BS about who cares. THANK YOU for just making a solid, simple, DIY, video.
Unplugging, waiting, and then re-starting the pilot did not reset mine. I tried waiting for various amounts of time. This suggestion did reset mine: light the pilot as normal....continue holding in the pilot button until the blinking starts. It'll still blink 7 times, but keep holding in the pilot button....keep holding.....keep holding....maybe even 2+ minutes....keep holding it in. Eventually, the light indicated normal blinking (or turns blue if that's your model.) Release the pilot button finally and set the temperature. Thanks, Daniel! I just wanted to add this option to the comments.
@NancyAdams Thank you so much!!! Your recommendation worked!!!! I did not have to take anything apart. Just held the pilot for like 3 or 4 minutes a day it went to blue and fired up. Life saver!
Same! Thanks for this because this is what I had to do for mine to reset !
Wow! Thanks for this 🙏 I literally just followed these instructions to a T and it worked for me without having to do what the video suggested (even though I would’ve been happy to go that route if needed). Now that we’re three years out from when you left this comment, I’d be curious to know if you had any recurring issues with yours afterward?
I held the pilot for about two minutes and the red light turned blue. I hit the igniter and the flame came on! Thank you very much for the advice.
Holy crap! It worked. I saw another video where a guy pressed down on the igniter for a few minutes after the pilot flame was on but that wasn't working. It did take me 2 tries but I likely didn't get that foil on every damn surface. Lifesaver! TY Dan
Glad it helped you - know that you may have to repeat the process from time to time, maybe once a month. But honestly saving the money was always a 'worth it' for me. ....and truly, you just have to unplug it and wait about 2 minutes and plug it back in, re-light the pilot light. that simple. The foil thing was just buying time lol
You saved my bacon today! Thank you. A victim of the California heat wave this week, your guide was perfect and got right to the point. Haha
I have this model and I followed recommendation of one of the comments below and it fixed it, much easier. You hold the pilot and ignite, hold it, hold it, hold it, literally for like 3 or 4 minutes. It will begin to flash the red signal 7 times for the error message. Just keep holding!!! After three or four minutes of holding down it will begin to flash blue! Just set your temperature, all done.
this works i just did it and mine is back up and running after a month of cold showers!!!!
This worked for me! To be more clear:
Hold pilot down, push ignite one time, continue to hold down the pilot for 3-4 minutes until the blue light comes on. Once it comes on set the temp to your desire. You should hear it fire right up!
@@LarrySoliman OMG awesome
To you have to do this every few months like Daniel states?
@@thomasgruver5777 no clue as its been 3 months and it hasnt turned off yet!
@@LarrySoliman awesome... thanks!
I was literally getting ready to try this. I had the pilot lit with 7 blinks. Turned the knob to the hot position. Still 7 blinks. Tapped on it with my finger and viola!!! This worked for me anyway. If it does it again. I will be trying the tin foil. Thank you
Thanks. Followed your steps. Problem solved in 5 minutes. Made appointment to repair. They didn't keep the promise and kept changing.
worked for me! thank you i was aboutt o buy a new water heater and this saved me time and money. your a genius!
THIS WORKED! I was about to go out and spend $149 on a new valve. 1 cent of aluminum foil and it reset the electronics. Brilliant!
Dan Sheperd, quite a few of the other repairmen, (experienced) say to never turn the dial above the "A" as it will cause the valve to run the heater so hot that it will shut down the valve. They say if you need it higher than "Hot", you need a larger water heater.
Maybe you're right - ive kept me pretty hot for the 20 years Ive lived there and never had an issue. This issue started about a year ago - if people want their water hotter, that's fine - that's what the settings are there for. Your info is great for advisement though, thank you.
Those folks don't realize a bigger tank doesn't mean the water gets hotter, and turning up temp won't give you "more" hot water
you are a life saver i worked on the thing all ready to give up finally i got that code 7 i did excactly what you said and did and that baby fired right up thanks for saving me a ton of time and money
Holy crap! It friggin worked! I put a piece of foil across the whole circuit board and pushed every square inch against all the contacts! No wait time at all! Thank you!
Well having no other options and wanting to have a hot shower in the morning, I tried your foil trick. Worked first time. Now I can go to bed...Thanks for that. MB. Now my only worry is Coronavirus.
Next time try just unplugging the power cable waiting a few minutes and plugging it back in.... I've notice that also works :)
Daniel Shepherd while leaving knob in the hot position and everything on??
Also as soon as i lite pilot i got this 7 flash error. I went back im house and then back im gargae 20 mins later to check on the flashing to see if anything changed and now its just doing the 1 flash which means is fine.
But my question is will it continue to do this 7 flash thing until the problem is fixed or does it just do it initially and then go away like in my case?? I find it strange that it did it and now it’s corrected itself unless it only does it initially when the pilot first lights.
@@benjaminsalopek3394 So about once a month or so I see a red light, I unplug the power wait, and replug it back in after a few minutes. it works for me and I can live it. Some really cant stand to have their "unit going out" or so I have researched. The unit is about 300$ on eBay. I see the unit daily and give it a quick 1 second look - no worries for me. Again I am not at all affiliated with gas repair, but this works for me .
I had the 7-blink error and used the “factory reset” method (10-10-10) to clear it. Another DIY channel describes it in detail to reset after a 4-blink error. I suspect it can clear any persistent error with this particular unit. If the error continues, try replacing the circuit board. Finally, the entire unit if the error continues. Good luck!
Great video, clear instruction? I followed step by step carefully and fixed my water heater problem. Thank you.
Glad to hear it... mind you, you will need to check the heater light daily - just a glance will do. If it flashes red again just unplug it as in the video, wait 5 minutes and pug it back in. Reset the pilot light and off you go. My turns red about once a month.
Thanks Daniel, going to try this tomorrow as I've just gotten the news of the "7 flashes" today. You mentioned shutting the gas off, how long to wait before turning it back on? 10 minutes enough, or give it an hour?
My Problem is the Thermostat, it won't turn on the burner even with the pilot being lit, but has the 7 flash blink. I was able to reset the board without having to wait the 2 hours. Just rubbing (shorting) with the foil, will discharge the capacitor on the board. I also noticed when I disconnected the power (thermocuple) and put the selector in the OFF position, the light becomes a fast steady blink until it runs out of power and the light dies off. My water heater was still under warranty (two years old of the 6 year) so I was able to get a Free (under warranty) replacement for the Control Unit. In the mean time, I can just reset the board and get it to fire up for at least one cycle, and get hot water for a shower. Always check for warranty coverage first. 2-4 days free shipping, FedEx overnight shipping also available for extra charge.
I've had to 'foil' mind a few times in the past few months - but it still works. sometimes it stays for months, sometimes for days - either way, it's a quick 1 minute fix. Way easier than buying a whole new 300$ unit.
@@shep78Gmail If it's still under warranty the control unit is free. It seems that almost every gas water heater controller is made by Honeywell. You'd think they figured out a fix by now. I'm going to try swapping just the circuit board when I get the replacement unit. (I really want to avoid having to drain the tank to replace the whole unit)
@@joelmonleon6471 You can find them on ebay for about 200$ - replacing the unit is not too difficult (youtube videos on that too). Mine is over 8 years old - so I doubt there is a warranty. I have no problems doing the foil thing though until I HAVE to replace it :)
@@shep78Gmail My controller is a WV8860C1000, lowest is like $275. All the eBay ones I saw are WV8840 models. Not sure if they are compatible. The last two water heaters were both covered under warranty, so I did not have to pay full price, to replace. A few years back, I replaced a water heater for my aunt, similar to the one I have, the controller also failed after two years, but warranty covered it. The original water heater lasted well over 30 years.
@@shep78Gmail Just wanted to mention that my Rheem water heater that uses this controller does have a 12 year warranty on parts.
Your video help me to fix my Gas valve I follow up the instructions and bingo back to normal again Thank you very much
great news brother!! Well done - sometimes a simple video can save you hundreds!
Can anyone comment how often this problem comes back? Have a 2019 Rheem with this Honeywell that gave me 7 blinks today. Ran this procedure and it worked when none of the other tricks (10-10-10) worked. Just curious to know if this is something that will continue to happen or not.
Jacob, what's the 10-10-10 you mentioned? Mine is barely 2 yrs old, & got the 7 blinks today. Going through the research you-tube exercise now!
@@isinet2813 you move the knob to extra hot for 10 seconds, hot for 10 seconds and then prime for 10 seconds. It’s mentioned in other videos. I must say though, I did the foil on the front of the circuit board two nights ago and it has not *yet* reset. I called the number on the water heater and Rheem is sending new parts so just trying to have hot water until the new parts get here sometime in the next week or so.
@@JakeGuilbo Did you disconnect the power wire? Leave off for 5-10 min? I got to mine today & started w/ the normal instructions on the heater label, and it came back to normal blue light & working like nu (2½ yrs old). I'm in SoCal & we've had a weird blizzard/rainstorm/snow/wind/hail/cats & dogs, etc. It's inside a little hut structure & the wind & rain just blew the door away, so I suspect that's what caused it to shut off. My next project now is to seal the aluminum door to the hut so a wind gust won't blow it open again.
Had a flood in my basement last night and my status light is doing the 7 blinks. Any chance this will work after the unit has been submerged in water for several hours 😞
I dont know - I know this trick resets the computer on the system - but it not a permanent solution. I would have to reset the unit once a month.
Thanks Daniel. Much appreciated. My results were similar to czhff9. Back to blue.
I was an HVAC tech for Sears 12 years ago. The older valves were tremendously better. You would replace a genuinely faulty valve and walk away. I just replaced a Residio valve on an AO Smith for a 4 flash code and the new one, right out of the box, was giving a 7 flash code. Well I knew that was BS. I tried shorting rhe board with the foil and it fired right up. There is a capacitor on the circuit board that's not discharging completely and when you use the foil, it's discharged and the circuit can reboot. This method works. The circuit design is lousy but tech support will never admit that. This problem will magically go away after the industry has used up all the crap controls in stock.
I did this today, but not sure if I connected that three colors cable that goes behind the motherboard. It is sitting tight, but since I am not able to see if it went inside the pins or not. The heater is working fine so far. Not sure if that is going to cause some danger (if it was not connected well/right).
So your video was plan B, but plane A worked , and plan A is after you turn it on from pressing the pilot and the ignition button, dial it to very hot for 15 second then hot for 15 second then back to pilot for 15 second do it 3 times and that’s how you reset it without opening it .
Still thank you for a very educational video .
How do you short the board , do you just wipe the foil over the back of the board or do you have to do some thing else?
pull the power and wait 10minutes... yes, that long. Then comeback and replug it in. The foil is not needed.
Thank you brother. The blue light is back on!
I can't believe this worked. Thank you so much!!
Holy smokes this actually works!!!! Dam your smart man!!!
Thanks
this works only if it's a glitch. If you have a problem the code will come back. in my case resetting worked for few hours and the 7 flashes came back. Rheem sent me the burner assembly and the controller under warranty.
I replaced the whole controller first including gas valve. code came back same day. then I replaced the burner assembly pretty much everything and so far it's good. I know the pilot was ok the hi temp sensor ok since it has it own code and I watched the controller cycle off so no issue with hi temp. My guess it was the thermopile. Its voltage output gets weak so there isn't enough power to run the valve, Hence I get the 7 flashes.
If your heater is out of warranty try replacing the sensors first they are inexpensive. Don't buy from Rheem they charge a lot more for same sensor.
Worked like a charm, thanks Daniel!
I have done this 3 times now over the past year or two, it works every time.
So I tried this last night on my slightly different BW w/ Honeywell control and couldn't get it to work. Same 7 flash error code. So I unplugged the "power" cables all night and tried this method again the next morning and it WORKED. Another thing I did different in the morning is to ground each 3 pin to the metal tank instead of the metal valve itself. This wasn't very clear in the video so I tried this approach but I'm not sure if it made a difference. Btw, the lone pin on the middle right of the valve control is the ground so i'm sure joining the other 2 pins to this one would have the same effect as touching the metal case. Anyhow, where do I send the beer to exactly? lol!
Thanks mate, you helped a fellow IT man solve his heater problem :D
Ya if it's different, I would find the video that pertains to your exact model. Either way, you figured it out on your own for free! Well done sir ;)
Thank you so very much! You saved me a couple hundred dollars.
It worked! Saved us some money. Thank you for posting this!!
These damn things. They go out after 2 to 3 years. The old models lasted over 10 years.
There is another way of resetting these as well. The pilot knob, you hold it down like you are lighting the pilot, hit the igniter and all that. Then you want to continue to hold down the knob until your red light starts blinking normally again. That take 4-5 minutes. It does some kind of reset to it too. Im going to try your way because mine is blinking 7 times, every other day now. Your way could be a hard reset or something. Thanks for the vid bud. I will let you know how it works for me.
How did it go? I would reset mine the same way you would but then it started blinking 7 times every other day, too.
@@drakeperales6387 Honestly, I never did it this way. We kept doing it by the way I wrote and its been doing good now for several months.
It worked. Great advice. Thank you so much!
I'm confused. So un plug it then pull off plate rub could all over board and 3 pins. Then plug it right back in and try and fire it up?
@@amygoulart7657 There is another video in TH-cam, that shows how to remove the top cover. Then rub the circuit board contacts with the foil and reassemble.
Just did this and it worked! Thanks for sharing
Do I have to shut off the gas? I don't have access to my shut off valve
This worked for me. Thank you sir! 🙏
Wow, I had this problem and fixed it but not this way. I just set the knob to off. It will stop blinking in 3-5 min. After that i just relight the pilot. Sometimes it struggles to start so i quickly turn the knob up to the hottest and back down to pilot and try again. Eventually it starts blinking blue. I would have tried this method if mine failed
Thank you!! Another water heater thermostat fixed!
The warranty company just sent us a new one. I replaced the whole thing, and I get the same 7 flashes error code about an hour later . Not sure what is wrong
It's been years since I lived there. I know Google and forums were a great place to start. ....I assume, you MAY need to replace the heater. They are about 700 at lowes, and it's not rocket science. Just ask lowes rep to help you etc.
@@shep78Gmail that sucks. Because our heater is only about 3 years old
Worked great for me. After a week I started getting the error again. Fixed it again and we’ll see how long this fix lasts this time around.
Ok if it was “fixed” it wouldn’t be throwing a code again
How long did it last the second time around? Mine also lasted a week and went back to 7 red blinks.
This actually worked! Dang...thanks
You can take the whole thing apart and put it back together in like 3 minutes. Would it have been that hard to actually do it, instead of rambling while haphazardly waving your camera around in front of a perfectly functional device? The footage might as well have been black, and the instruction might as well have been a comment on some forum somewhere.
1:51 I'm suppose to ground the board to the valve pins? What are you even saying? Why not just show it?
I feel like I'm watching a toddler trying and explain what they did at daycare to their mother.
Thank you so much! God bless you
It still WORKS!!!! Thank you
Hard to believe that brand new unit on the day one gives 7 flash code.
Let's see if this works.
I may install a little manual knob with foil on the other side.
Just unplug it, wait about 5 min - come back and reset the pilot. Much easier.
@@shep78Gmail Tried multiple times and no luck
@@prednosttrake Unplug it- wait 10 full minutes. Remove the unitl like the video and rub foil on the bacck. Plug everything back in. Place the dial in 'piliot light'. Hold it in, and push the LIGHTER button about 10 times. Release both and turn dial to desired temp. The blue light should flash and you should hear the gas heater ignite.
If this doesnt work for you - then: is this the SAME UNIT? ARE YOU SURE YOU ARE GETTING 7 FLASHES? if no to either of these please continue your search I guess - EBAY sells the units for about 200$
@@shep78Gmail performance platinum 50gal. Same Honeywell unit as yours. Tested gas for leaks with soap and water. I just put timer for 10min and last attempt. I can't find where this sensor sits. It is not on the bottom like some other models show.
I followed this video and not sure if I didn’t do something correctly or what but it didn’t work for me! BUT I did follow other commenters who said they turned it on and continued to hold the pilot button until it blinked blue ! And sure enough 3 minutes later it blinked blue ! I haven’t had it blink red as of now but I sure hope it stays that way !
My light started the 7 red blinks just earlier this week. I'm able to turn it off - wait, and turn it back on and re-light, however it's only lasting a day or two now. Should I short the board? I'm thinking I'll try unplugging the red/white wires for an hour or so first but just curious - are you still having to fuss with this now that you've found the fix for itt? Thanks for making the video (and keeping it quick and straight forward ;))
I'm having the same issue. And my tank is only 2 weeks old.
I unplugged the red/white wires and let them sit for 20 min but that did nothing (still went out like a day later). I’m going to short the board I guess. Will report back. Ugh. So annoying this issue
@@barnabaas79 thank you.
@@oSTYNCLSYo It's been 2 days now and I'm still blinking blue with no issues. However I didn't short the board, last thing I was going to try before doing that was this - read this someplace else as a potential reset. To reset the valve first turn off the tank let sit for 30 seconds (start that 30 seconds AFTER the blinking red light finishes on shutting it down). Then turn the nob to very hot and let stand for 30 seconds, then to hot for 30 seconds then relight the tank. - Mine fired up a little differently so I'm hoping this sticks. If it goes out in the next few days I'll report back.
@@barnabaas79 thank you for the response, I just got tired of the water heater I went and got another one.
Hello, I originally had a 7 error code then after following the steps in the post I was able to clear the error. But I still have an issue. I can light the pilot but as soon as I let go the pilot goes out and I still have normal operation code. I turn it off wait 10 min or more it still does the same thing and it flashing normal. I still at a loss. Its been two weeks without hot water and every service tech is 3 weeks or more behind. I am just about ready to go buy an electric hot water heater and shut my gas service off.
try this: th-cam.com/video/rllnMAx05JI/w-d-xo.html and
maybe also watch this: th-cam.com/video/cAo4I2eoJ9Q/w-d-xo.html
I'm having this happen to me, I am not sure sure what you mean in the foil step, can you give more details? I've rubbed the board with aluminum foil but not really sure how I am shorting anything when the power is disconnected :P.
Youre not... the foil just buys you time while the computer battery winds down. Simply remove the power, wait 5 minutes - plug it back in, then re light the pilot - you have to do this about once a month.
Wow!! It really works, Thank you so much
Same exact problem I am having! I wonder why I have to wait 2 hours?
wait 2 hours? ...unplug it and wait about 5 minutes. Then plug it back in - even the foil is not needed. this will work as a bandaid for yyears - just keep an eye on the light. I would have to reset every two weeks or so - took 4 minutes and was free. PLUS you're prolonging the life of the unit :)
I tried this and the power didn’t come back to the unit after reconnecting the cable :(
Water heater was turning off every few minutes, an hour or two tops. Tried it last night, it's been 10hrs now and still going.
Why do you have to wait 2 hours to remove the power cable?
You dont..... just give it a decent 10 minutes. Just enough for the power to exhaust out.
Dude you are awesome this worked
Thank you SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks got mine working too; hopefully it stays blinking blue!
Thanks for the tip this helped us today and saved us $$$
Thank you for sharing, however this method did not fix my water heater issue. I have a Rheem Ultra Low NOx gas water heater with 7 red blinks (even through I can see the flame where the pilot still lid), and like to share my method hoping this would help someone with the same issue that I have. In my case I was able to reset the water heater by turn it off for 5 minutes and re-lid the water heater, but as soon as I take a long warm shower or my washing machine is using hot water and some one is taking warm shower at the same time, it will shut off the heater and gave a 7 red blinks error. I have try many reset methods that shown on youtube + google with no luck. Here is what I did:
1 Flush the tank and fill it with 4 gallon of cleaning vinegar then add water and leave it over night then flush it ( this will clean up all the calcium built up inside the tank) Result : still got 7 Flash after water heater running for a while.
2. Shut off my gas valve and remove the Honeywell valve controller (the white box) then cleaning the water temperature probe with vinegar to remove all the build up. Reinstall it, but still same result 7 blinks. I kept have to reset the system every times this happened.
Finally I found this bypass method to solve this 7 blinks error for my water heater:
Shut off your gas valve, Remove the burner from your water heater. Use the Kapton tape to wrap around the thermistor sensor ( the 4" copper probe ) Now use aluminum foil food wrap to wrap outside that thermistor sensor. Reinstall everything back and water heater work like new.
It is been running for more than 2 weeks now with no issue.
I hope this would help someone with the same issue like mine!
I think this not a good method of fixing the controller. If not find the root cause of what happened on the controller it will happen again. Am I right?
God bless, I know you mean Jesus! Thank you! Thank you!
It worked! THANK YOU!
Just did the same at my house. Worked.
Thank you!!! It worked
Thanks for sharing! 👍
didn’t work for me but i called the phone number on the tank and talked to manufacturer. my heater was still be under warranty. for 12 years and all parts were sent for free.
I guess what you're actually doing is discharging the capacitors on the board then put the aluminum foil to ground I wonder if you could put a permanent jumper wire from the ground on the circuit board to a water pipe it's brass or copper I did notice with my unit when I put it on very hot I would have this problem so now I leave it on warm
The white flashing light , does that mean the heater is ok
You will hear the heater kicking in (the burner) and the BLUE light should be flashing, yours MAYBE white - Hopefully you have the same unit in the video - which would go with your question. if not, then..... WHY are OU WATCHING A VIDEO not related to your unit?!!
You leave it turned up that high???? Your gas bill is big. Ghat damn. You wont feelba difference at Aor B because your body literally cant tolerate those temps. But if you have it that hot everyone can shower at the same time
I did that and now my status light doesn’t light up at all anymore.
when you unplug it, wait for the light to stop.... rub foil on the back of the circuit board. and plug it back in. You MAY need to re-light the pilot light. I am doing this about every 2 weeks..... mine realy might be going on, but this trick keeps working.
any update to your issue? were you able to fix it?
Daniel Shepherd I’ve tried unsuccessfully to solve this issue. I don’t think I’m resetting the circuit board correctly. Would love to connect to hear your advice. Thank you!
@@jasonhartman9960 First time I'm seeing this brother - I am so sorry. Hopefully it's been fixed.
owesome you are my hero worked better then you even disccibed
The wires wont come out
What do i do?
So the wires do come out but they are snug in there. You need to rock them out dont pull down, but pull back. That black piece on top of the wires lifts out with the wires attached. I would comb through the unit on youtube and see if you can see it being done - not difficult, but yes, rock them back and forth bulling straight up not pulling the wires down.
Carefully use a screwdriver to pry it from the top and side. Be careful no to short the two metal connector tabs.
Thanks man!
Hi Daniel. I noticed white teflon tape on your gas connections. White is normally used for water, not gas. The gas tape is colored yellow and is only used on threaded connections. I see you have white tape on your compression fitting. There should not be any tape or pipe dope on this connection. I also noticed the teflon tape is shredded, which normally means it was wound around the threaded fittings in the wrong direction. Not a hater, but as a landlord, liability comes first! Gas kills. Not just from fire or explosion, but carbon monoxide from leaks from incorrect connections. I don't know if your foil technique works. I do know that Honeywell gas valves DO NOT!
Thanks, Nick, it's been that way for the past 8 years.... when I did the fitting I used the tape then used soap and water to check the line. No issues since - I'll change them out just to be safe. And Yes, this method works great - saved me the 200$ to replace it.
The yellow teflon tape, just like the blue is all a gimmick. Pipe dope works for the threaded connection just fine and is not color coded. UPC does not require yellow, blue, or grey just the use of a proper thread lubricant. Standard white teflon used properly, usually just two wraps thick is all that is needed. Been a union plumber for awhile and tired of the gimmicks HD, Lowes or others use just to make a buck.
@@rudjeep1 I know - ive been usinig this stuff for years and my pipes have been this way for going on 9 years. :) Still people like to live by the UNION code :)
Mine has flashing red can I do the same thing I have no hot water
@@jermainereid5815 you are welcome to try. you need to count the flashes and look on the unit. the type of flashes will tell you what is wrong. If it's 7 flashes, then pauses.... then this trick usually works. if it;s another pattern of flashes, you may need to investigate further.
LIFE SAVER !!!!!!
Any chance this is dangerous? Also wish you showed what you did when you ran the foil across I’m kinda confused about that
Just turned off and let it cool off, it will keep doing it anyway these things are a joke.
Thats our payment for climate change, replace it every couple years
My code 7 problem was fixed by cleaning the thermocoupler. Had cold water, checked 12 year old Rheem water heater in an outdoor enclosure one mile from the salty ocean, it was completely off, no light. Restarted, now showing the code 7. Tried the many ‘fixes’, tin foil to circuit board, battery clicking the valves, checked ohm resistance of valves (10-13) mine were 12, and finally the Pilot/High Heat/Hot/Pilot 10 second reset procedure several times, no change. Each ‘fix’ resulted in the same scenario, it would start, run, still showing code 7 then after a few minutes show the normal operation code of one light every 3 seconds. This would last until the next day when I would find it completely shut off again, no light. It’s a 12 year old WH so I thought about buying a whole new one, contemplated just buying a new controller, then thought about buying just a new thermocoupler, finally decided to just remove the burner assembly and clean everything up like shiny new. Reassembled, started up, light code now shows normal operation and it has been fine ever since. So apparently code 7 will appear for many reasons, including if the pilot doesn’t stay lit for whatever reason, mine apparently being the assembly was just dirty. Note: this is my second Rheem water heater. First lasted 12 years, got drenched in a storm and was never the same. This unit, again 12 years old (but in a much better outdoor enclosure) shows no rust outside or inside burner area and still no sediments on flushing. When I finally have to replace it with a new one it will most likely be another Rheem!
Uh... thank you. You did far more leg work than I did. Glad you got it fixed. Feel free to make your own video on your fix - maybe you'll help a few thousand people too. :)
Just did fixed my crap
You should install a sediment trap it prevents some stuff like this happening
Sadly.... it didnt work me 😢...
Nvm i waited for about 3 mins and then the blue light came back 😅
Dodged a huge 💸 bullet
The old electromechanical work the best I guess Honeywell mustn't making enough money is it going to inconvenience everybody then they're going to tell you it's safer btime the electromechanical work fine for many years welcome to the 21st century
Worked! Thanks!
Demonstrator!!
Thanks for sharing Daniel. I had the same 7-Flashes issue but found a different solution after calling Rheem service desk. Here's a video on how I did it: th-cam.com/video/7ZrApWtz4_0/w-d-xo.html
A actual video showing us would have been GREAT…..👎
it was so simple what I described was more than enough. Of the hundreds that commented saying this worked, finally after years - you come alone and leave a negative comment. Congrats ;) Not that hard to figure out, and it will save you hundreds.
@@shep78Gmail I just don’t understand DIY videos that don’t actually show the how to…. But either way the fact you helped hundreds save hundreds is priceless….
@@ngarci8040 I'm sorry brother - it just didn't seem realistic to cause the failure again when the fix was pretty straightforward. I am glad to help you - was there a step that you had a problem with? after it's all said and done, you literally unplug the unit, and wait 5 minutes then plug it back in, and restart the pilot light.
@@shep78Gmail im actual having a furnace/thermostat issue but either way much respect to you for uploading helpful content 👍