So basically, as long as the crease doesn't break the surface, there is hope? Also, if the crease is still noticeable, is it safe to dab it with the spray and reclamp it? Or will it eventually damage the card? Great videos by the way. You helped me fix some imperfections on more than a few vintage cards I own. 👍👍
Correct, well said. If you're just working with a light crease. You can apply a light bit of card spray on it and let it dry right in front of you. After you do a soak or semisoak you can do light amounts to finish. I have several ways to go at these issues. Check out my vintage playlist, it has more examples
Hi Kurt, how do you know when to soak first when you see creases on a card versus dabbing it with a cotton pad before soaking? On your Bob Swift video you didn't soak.
Hi. I have your kit, but have never used it. Where can I get those black drying pads that you used in this video as well as the round flats glasses and crimps you used. Thanks much. Looking forward to trying out your products.
Thank you. If it’s something stuck on the surface, you can usually safely remove it. But if it’s a little specs of missing paint, it would just be missing.
Interesting... One has to wonder the affects on the material from the chemicals after a longer period of time ... If the card can hold this form after many years inside or even outside of a slab after many changes in climate would be interesting to know ... Thank you
the exact same as any other card. “chemicals”…? wth do you think hes using here? ive yet to see any proof of “cracking” or damage this process causes. its been going on for many years. Kurt cares enough to be transparent and walk collectors through the process.
Yes... Are they not chemicals ? The product was manufactured in a lab using chemicals... These are concerned questions about the process ... if the card remains in the same condition from day one as is does after 10 years than that would be great news ... But do not assume 7-10 year results.
@@roccog627 so why are you assuming 7-10 year results to be negative? and this has been going on for years,….but yet nobody has proof of cards cracking, etc? not one pic so far. he doesnt make the spray in a lab, HE makes it himself. its distilled water mixed with alcohol for evaporation (if my guess is correct). im sure Kurt can provide some pics from at least 2 years, of cards still like they were the day he finished them.
I don’t take any offense to your question, I think it’s a great question. This is stuff I really get into and I have been successful doing this for many years. Only a few years ago I started showing collectors how to do this type of stuff on TH-cam and Instagram. I feel this is the safest way to remove dirt and stains and often relieve stress and wrinkles. It’s not something that creates a time bomb, and one day it just falls apart. These cards are resilient and when you respect the materials that they’re made out of you’re going to be OK. It is easy to make mistakes, and if you do, it’s right in front of your face vs as time goes by I appreciate you asking
Will hold up just fine. That was the worry in the 1980s - that the PVC in the 9-pocket plastic sheets would melt your cards. I’ve had my cards in plastic sheets for 40 years and hold up exactly the same as the ones that were never put into plastic sheets.
Typically an ounce or two. When I soak a vintage card, it usually pulls out a lot of dirt and junk so it’s not something you’d want to reuse. If you’re just gonna work on some particular spots on your card, you don’t have to soak it. You can just use small amounts of cards spray, and if you need some advice, I could always be more specific. Thanks for asking.
Is there any other liquid you can use to soak the card because I have a Gil Hodges from that set and it’s in terrible condition, but good enough I could restore, and I don’t have money
A bit out of your wheelhouse, but I'd love to see what you could do with an old beat-up Pokemon Gameboy game box. In terrible condition those thinks go for a couple hundred dollars.
Hey Taylor, I’m not sure, but it would be an easy test. Because the canvas card you gotta be careful with you can’t wipe on them or anything like that, so I think soaking them would be the only option if they were dirty. But I just don’t know what they would dry like, if they would split apart….If I have an extra one, I’ll give it a try.
I’ve soaked Cards through the 80s. They’re usually not as damaged as these cards so just doing little edge or corner jobs on those is usually what I do. But a paper card can be soaked. You just have to be patient and let it dry flat, and slowly. Practice on a base card First. I can vouch for the results of all the old stuff but it’s always wise to test first. Thanks for asking.
Incredible!!
Would love to see it graded again
I’ll definitely follow up. I like trying to improve the card but also the grade on these lower graded examples
following so I can see@@kurtscardcare
So basically, as long as the crease doesn't break the surface, there is hope? Also, if the crease is still noticeable, is it safe to dab it with the spray and reclamp it? Or will it eventually damage the card? Great videos by the way. You helped me fix some imperfections on more than a few vintage cards I own. 👍👍
Correct, well said. If you're just working with a light crease. You can apply a light bit of card spray on it and let it dry right in front of you. After you do a soak or semisoak you can do light amounts to finish. I have several ways to go at these issues. Check out my vintage playlist, it has more examples
Another fantastic restoration 👍🏽💯
Man this was insane , enjoyed the video.
Amazing!
Are those dryer sheets your using the casoman tool box liners cut into squares?
Yes casoman liner cut into 6x6 squares
Hi Kurt, how do you know when to soak first when you see creases on a card versus dabbing it with a cotton pad before soaking? On your Bob Swift video you didn't soak.
I’ll typically soak a card if it’s really dirty. Soaking is great for an old dirty card and it will help relieve some of the creases as well.
@@kurtscardcare Appreciated. In what situation would you work on a card before soaking? (if there is one)
@@4rebecca good question. If a card has a severe stain I will try to work it down before soaking kind of like pre-treating a stain
👍
Sharp
Thanks for another amazing video Kurt!
Absolutely, thanks for watching
Hi. I have your kit, but have never used it. Where can I get those black drying pads that you used in this video as well as the round flats glasses and crimps you used.
Thanks much.
Looking forward to trying out your products.
I get those accessories on Amazon, here’s a link
www.kurtscardcare.com/products-we-love
Thank you!
Amazing job! Kurt, I was wondering about print dots (ie snow) on vintage cards. Can that be removed or diminished at all? Thanks
Thank you. If it’s something stuck on the surface, you can usually safely remove it. But if it’s a little specs of missing paint, it would just be missing.
Interesting... One has to wonder the affects on the material from the chemicals after a longer period of time ... If the card can hold this form after many years inside or even outside of a slab after many changes in climate would be interesting to know ... Thank you
the exact same as any other card. “chemicals”…? wth do you think hes using here? ive yet to see any proof of “cracking” or damage this process causes. its been going on for many years. Kurt cares enough to be transparent and walk collectors through the process.
Yes... Are they not chemicals ? The product was manufactured in a lab using chemicals... These are concerned questions about the process ... if the card remains in the same condition from day one as is does after 10 years than that would be great news ... But do not assume 7-10 year results.
@@roccog627 so why are you assuming 7-10 year results to be negative?
and this has been going on for years,….but yet nobody has proof of cards cracking, etc? not one pic so far.
he doesnt make the spray in a lab, HE makes it himself. its distilled water mixed with alcohol for evaporation (if my guess is correct).
im sure Kurt can provide some pics from at least 2 years, of cards still like they were the day he finished them.
I don’t take any offense to your question, I think it’s a great question. This is stuff I really get into and I have been successful doing this for many years. Only a few years ago I started showing collectors how to do this type of stuff on TH-cam and Instagram.
I feel this is the safest way to remove dirt and stains and often relieve stress and wrinkles. It’s not something that creates a time bomb, and one day it just falls apart. These cards are resilient and when you respect the materials that they’re made out of you’re going to be OK. It is easy to make mistakes, and if you do, it’s right in front of your face vs as time goes by
I appreciate you asking
Will hold up just fine. That was the worry in the 1980s - that the PVC in the 9-pocket plastic sheets would melt your cards. I’ve had my cards in plastic sheets for 40 years and hold up exactly the same as the ones that were never put into plastic sheets.
Hello how much card spray do you use for the soak. Also is it used once and done
Typically an ounce or two. When I soak a vintage card, it usually pulls out a lot of dirt and junk so it’s not something you’d want to reuse.
If you’re just gonna work on some particular spots on your card, you don’t have to soak it. You can just use small amounts of cards spray, and if you need some advice, I could always be more specific. Thanks for asking.
Is there any other liquid you can use to soak the card because I have a Gil Hodges from that set and it’s in terrible condition, but good enough I could restore, and I don’t have money
I've been experimenting with distilled water
A bit out of your wheelhouse, but I'd love to see what you could do with an old beat-up Pokemon Gameboy game box. In terrible condition those thinks go for a couple hundred dollars.
That would be cool, I’ve never had one personally
my only question is would you try to sell it as original or refurbished ?
Can Psa tell if you’ve tried to clean or restore a card?
I've never had any issues with the type of cleanings and restorations I show - Good question and thanks for asking
Could you submerge a young guns canvas lime that? What are you soaking it with?
Hey Taylor, I’m not sure, but it would be an easy test. Because the canvas card you gotta be careful with you can’t wipe on them or anything like that, so I think soaking them would be the only option if they were dirty. But I just don’t know what they would dry like, if they would split apart….If I have an extra one, I’ll give it a try.
do you take restoration orders? i trust you more than i trust myself lol. I have an 09 steph curry rookie with a small dent that needs raised up.
Sorry, no, I don’t do that personally
What type of mat do you use on your desk ?
Get some material called toolbox liner, but it works awesome for cards
amzn.to/3EkTZr0
That’s a 49 Dave Chapelle😅
@@kc8767 I can see the resemblance for sure.
Curt where do you get the card mats from and what are they called
I have them linked here: www.kurtscardcare.com/products-we-love
Can you soak cards from the 80s? I see you do it on much older cards. Didn’t know if the same goes for 80s cardboard cards
I’ve soaked Cards through the 80s. They’re usually not as damaged as these cards so just doing little edge or corner jobs on those is usually what I do. But a paper card can be soaked. You just have to be patient and let it dry flat, and slowly. Practice on a base card First. I can vouch for the results of all the old stuff but it’s always wise to test first. Thanks for asking.
Thank you. Just bought your kit last night.
Perfect time for a sale on products, bogo on the liquid or buy 2 get % off.....
That card just jumped about another 2 grand en value
Are you going to submit back to sgc to see if the grade improves?
Yes, that’s the game plan.