You absolutely DO NOT grease any of the bearings in the front hub and strut assemblies. Any grease in the strut will find its way into the hilliard clutch and mess it up. The drive fluid/atf lubricates all the bearings and parts in the hub and strut.
I was going to say the same thing. I just had to replace a hub clutch and bearings because the whole unit was seizing up from grease and grime. There is no seal between all the bearings.
Quick tip, I noticed you used a lot of metric tools on this job, these Polaris machines are built with all imperial size bolts, I found that out recently, I’m used to my all metric Yamaha’s
Mudford this is my first Polaris as well, I’ve had 3 Yamaha’s and just bought an 04 sportsman recently, needed a lot of work so I’ve been finding a lot of these videos you and other have posted very helpful
Great information, now maybe I can get my beast on the road , was a 700 efi sportsman ! Roll over down a hill, rebuilt into a side by side 🤦♂️😵💫 been working on it for a long time, wife wants it gone but I won’t give up ( to much in it to stop now 🤪 it is for my autistic son and I. Going to check out the some things on my front end now! Don’t have s manual but it will live again 😆🥸😉
You are wrong about grease on the larger bore bearings. This is a sealed system there is a total of 4 (four) seals keeping oil in the hub.. rear of the aluminum strut has a seal where the cv axle stabs in and seats to, then the rear of hub has a seal that you can see in video nearest the rotor , then the two cap seals. If you pack grease in the hub bearings it won't take long for the strut seal (pressed into aluminum housing to leak out and ruin all you nice work nearest the cv boot once all that grease is thinned out by the fluid because they aren't separate its all inclosed meaning "in the same bore".
ps....The specs on the wheel bearing nut is 100 ft /lbs from the shop manual. Use a ketchup squeeze bottle for the hub drive fluid. It makes adding fluid easier. Do you run with the oil injector system or do pre mix. After a catastrophic engine failure due to original Polaris piston skirt failure, I bypassed the injector system with a completely rebuilt engine having a Wiseco piston. Don't want to go down engine failure lane again.
I premix. When I got the four wheeler the engine was bad. It had a melted piston from an oil injection failure. The oil line had come off of the intake. I rebuilt the top end and ran it for a couple years. I overheated it and ruined the piston while plowing snow. This time I decided to start premixing.
Loretta, not meaning to correct but if anyone was cinch down the 'wheel bearing nut' to 100 ft lbs, they would technically burn up their bearings in the first 1/4 mile. This is actually torqueing down to the equivalent of a utility trailer lug nut. Per my 1997 Polaris Xplorer 500 it states 165 IN lbs.. Not FT lbs. 165 'IN' lbs is only about 13.7 'FT' lbs on the conversion. I'm sure most of the guys here caught this but I wanted to correct this before someone took this for face value and burn up their bearings and ruin their races This if from my manual. If you need the conversion, you can go here. www.convertunits.com/from/in.+lb/to/ft.+lb Item Nom In.·lb. ..ft Ib. Front hub castellated nut' First stage 18.6 165 - second stage 14.0 124 - Front brake rotor hex borts' 24 - 18
@@parrishmooneyham6095 you are correct, my 99 Scrambler with similar hubs says in the shop manual first tighten to 170 inch pounds while rotating hub then back off nut 1/2 turn and re-tighten axle nut to 108-144 inch pounds.
the bearing that you packed with grease ..when did you put that on ? when you pulled the shaft through the strut or did you put it in back of the hub and then slide the whole hub on ? i couldnt tell...thanks Ed
Do you still have all the links to the parts you bought? My hub on mine doesn't engage anymore on one side, it stopped working after I was wheeling hard through some trails and I heard a snap and it stoped working, axle still spins tho and the axle is not broke. I think I have the same problem as you, so those links would be wonderful!
I tear my front left 4wd hub n try to get it work but when i did off the ground it work all 4wd but drive it n for little bit then it doesn't work again.....dont know y...i did like 3 or 4 times did the same.....u know y?....lmk.
I'm sorry, but its been a year and a half since I worked on it and made this video. I don't remember. They should come out either way. It's more than likely just a problem of getting a hammer and a punch to it with lots of stuff in the way.
I haven't been able to lately. It is a project that is just for fun. I've had a lot of urgent work lately. (Like my snow plowing quad). I hope to get back to the steering soon. I have some work done on it, but it's not finished yet. I'll post a video when I get the steering completed.
Thanks for the clear description of the strut bearing / hub dissassembly. I have the same machine and have been trying to fix an annoying hub fluid leak. Have replaced hub seals, and it solved the problem on one side. I noticed a slight leak on the other side after seal replacement and also some wheel bearing play in the same axle. Others have said that if hub bearings are wobbly, the hub seal will not seal correctly and will leak. Now I am ready to go back and replace the suspected wheel bearings. Thanks for showing the strut bearig assembly. No where does it mention greasing the strut bearings in any shop manual. Mine will probably need replacement also as they came out dry. Can you give me those all balls parts # for the hub and strut bearing kits. Did they come with races or just bearings and seals? Thanks again....Happy to see another 96 polaris sportsman 400 still kicking.
All Balls Wheel Bearing and seal kit (includes races) part # 25-1008 All Balls Strut Bearing and seal kit (includes races) part # 25-1006 You should be able to find them reasonably priced on ebay. Good luck! Hope you can get it back together without having to spend too much.
hello. Tell me, could you tell me why Polaris isn’t gaining momentum the same as your video only works at idle What could be the reason, please tell me
i use tractor fluid i researched it get wet brake tractor hydraulick oil i use it gear n all well [not in engine of course] in all of it a++ 38.00 usd ish fer 5 galleons of it
There's a seal on the back of the hub that seals it to the round shiny piece on the strut as it turns. Took me a minute to figure it out, but I realized he's right about greasing the strut bearings and not the hub bearings. I'm using Polaris Demand Drive Fluid on the one I'm fixing but only cuz it belongs to a customer. If it were mine I'd use type F. I've heard where people actually crashed because of their Demand Drive front-ends not being maintained properly, so I go by the book on someone else's.
i would like to know if there is some polaris video showing how the magnetic hub engage works, an animation or similar. it really seems to be witchcraft lol. fu**ng magnets XD
Do you use Polaris pure for fluids or do you use something else? I have a 95 and gonna do sone service to it but, not sure if I have to go to dealer and get all Polaris pure fluids
People usually don't read comments before or after watching a video. You really should remove those video! Besides a light greasing to the seals (for ease of installation) NO GREASE should be introduced to this system.
Hey if you guys are looking for a video on the Polaris sportsman ETX cv shaft replacement, I just made a video on it, check it out here! th-cam.com/video/DAFNg-0EAbM/w-d-xo.html
You absolutely DO NOT grease any of the bearings in the front hub and strut assemblies. Any grease in the strut will find its way into the hilliard clutch and mess it up. The drive fluid/atf lubricates all the bearings and parts in the hub and strut.
U sure? Bout to do mine and don't wanna f*** it up
@@joshramsay8718 yes, call a Polaris shop and ask if you need piece of mind.
Thank you
yea dude i just took my hubs apart and all 4 bearings def get lubed by the hub fluid. there’s no seal on the inside of the hub and the strut
Hmm. I have to do mine again. Plowing is hard on mine. 4wd rarely works so I am going to try this route.
You are not supposed to grease the bearings on them. The type f oil is the lube. The oil goes all the way into the strut housings
I was going to say the same thing. I just had to replace a hub clutch and bearings because the whole unit was seizing up from grease and grime. There is no seal between all the bearings.
Im about to do this same inner & outter bearing replacement on my 300 4x4 next weekend. This video is very helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to detail this process. Much respect.
Quick tip, I noticed you used a lot of metric tools on this job, these Polaris machines are built with all imperial size bolts, I found that out recently, I’m used to my all metric Yamaha’s
Thanks, I'm used to Japanese bikes and quads, also (this is my first Polaris) I never would have guessed.
Mudford actually funny enough I got tearing into it more some more this past weekend and found some factory metric stuff. Must be a weird mix.
Mudford this is my first Polaris as well, I’ve had 3 Yamaha’s and just bought an 04 sportsman recently, needed a lot of work so I’ve been finding a lot of these videos you and other have posted very helpful
Thank you so much!!! This helped me more than I can say!!! Your my new hero👍.
Great information, now maybe I can get my beast on the road , was a 700 efi sportsman ! Roll over down a hill, rebuilt into a side by side 🤦♂️😵💫 been working on it for a long time, wife wants it gone but I won’t give up ( to much in it to stop now 🤪 it is for my autistic son and I. Going to check out the some things on my front end now! Don’t have s manual but it will live again 😆🥸😉
Thanks for the video mudford u the man!
Good video, appreciate the time and detail in the process. Great help in solving my problem.
You are wrong about grease on the larger bore bearings. This is a sealed system there is a total of 4 (four) seals keeping oil in the hub.. rear of the aluminum strut has a seal where the cv axle stabs in and seats to, then the rear of hub has a seal that you can see in video nearest the rotor , then the two cap seals. If you pack grease in the hub bearings it won't take long for the strut seal (pressed into aluminum housing to leak out and ruin all you nice work nearest the cv boot once all that grease is thinned out by the fluid because they aren't separate its all inclosed meaning "in the same bore".
If you get any oil or grease on the brake rotor you must , MUST clean it thoroughly with brake clean !!!!!!
ATF works in the hubs just fine.
Thanks for the video, it was a great help in fixing my problem
Great video, I'm about to tear apart my 500 Scrambler which is leaking some fluid on the inside of the front rim.
Hello, you do not use grease on any of the bearings. they are all lubercated with the oil...
These bearing don't require any grease they are lubed by the oil in the hub
I just got a 95 just like this in really good condition. Does it have a front diff with fluid? Other than the hub oil? Thanks for your time
ps....The specs on the wheel bearing nut is 100 ft /lbs from the shop manual. Use a ketchup squeeze bottle for the hub drive fluid. It makes adding fluid easier. Do you run with the oil injector system or do pre mix. After a catastrophic engine failure due to original Polaris piston skirt failure, I bypassed the injector system with a completely rebuilt engine having a Wiseco piston. Don't want to go down engine failure lane again.
I premix. When I got the four wheeler the engine was bad. It had a melted piston from an oil injection failure. The oil line had come off of the intake. I rebuilt the top end and ran it for a couple years. I overheated it and ruined the piston while plowing snow. This time I decided to start premixing.
Loretta, not meaning to correct but if anyone was cinch down the 'wheel bearing nut' to 100 ft lbs, they would technically burn up their bearings in the first 1/4 mile. This is actually torqueing down to the equivalent of a utility trailer lug nut. Per my 1997 Polaris Xplorer 500 it states 165 IN lbs.. Not FT lbs. 165 'IN' lbs is only about 13.7 'FT' lbs on the conversion. I'm sure most of the guys here caught this but I wanted to correct this before someone took this for face value and burn up their bearings and ruin their races This if from my manual. If you need the conversion, you can go here. www.convertunits.com/from/in.+lb/to/ft.+lb
Item Nom In.·lb. ..ft Ib.
Front hub castellated nut'
First stage 18.6 165 -
second stage 14.0 124 -
Front brake rotor hex borts' 24 - 18
@@parrishmooneyham6095 you are correct, my 99 Scrambler with similar hubs says in the shop manual first tighten to 170 inch pounds while rotating hub then back off nut 1/2 turn and re-tighten axle nut to 108-144 inch pounds.
Be very observant as to in/lbs or ft/ lbs , to convert in/lbs to ft/lbs , simply divide by 12 , as (12” to the ft )
Loretta Caputo -There is no way that the tq is 100 ft/lbs NO WAY
the bearing that you packed with grease ..when did you put that on ? when you pulled the shaft through the strut or did you put it in back of the hub and then slide the whole hub on ? i couldnt tell...thanks Ed
Do you still have all the links to the parts you bought? My hub on mine doesn't engage anymore on one side, it stopped working after I was wheeling hard through some trails and I heard a snap and it stoped working, axle still spins tho and the axle is not broke. I think I have the same problem as you, so those links would be wonderful!
I tear my front left 4wd hub n try to get it work but when i did off the ground it work all 4wd but drive it n for little bit then it doesn't work again.....dont know y...i did like 3 or 4 times did the same.....u know y?....lmk.
Isn't the hub supposed to take type f trans fluid?
Please respond do the roll pins only come out 1 way or can it be punched out either way?
I'm sorry, but its been a year and a half since I worked on it and made this video. I don't remember. They should come out either way. It's more than likely just a problem of getting a hammer and a punch to it with lots of stuff in the way.
It seemed like mine only came out one way but it could have been because one side was mushroomed from the last tear down
How did you make room to get the roll pin out?
are you still working on the mudmower?
I haven't been able to lately. It is a project that is just for fun. I've had a lot of urgent work lately. (Like my snow plowing quad). I hope to get back to the steering soon. I have some work done on it, but it's not finished yet. I'll post a video when I get the steering completed.
Mudford ok i understand
Thanks for the clear description of the strut bearing / hub dissassembly. I have the same machine and have been trying to fix an annoying hub fluid leak. Have replaced hub seals, and it solved the problem on one side. I noticed a slight leak on the other side after seal replacement and also some wheel bearing play in the same axle. Others have said that if hub bearings are wobbly, the hub seal will not seal correctly and will leak. Now I am ready to go back and replace the suspected wheel bearings. Thanks for showing the strut bearig assembly. No where does it mention greasing the strut bearings in any shop manual. Mine will probably need replacement also as they came out dry. Can you give me those all balls parts # for the hub and strut bearing kits. Did they come with races or just bearings and seals? Thanks again....Happy to see another 96 polaris sportsman 400 still kicking.
All Balls Wheel Bearing and seal kit (includes races) part # 25-1008
All Balls Strut Bearing and seal kit (includes races) part # 25-1006
You should be able to find them reasonably priced on ebay. Good luck! Hope you can get it back together without having to spend too much.
hello. Tell me, could you tell me why Polaris isn’t gaining momentum the same as your video only works at idle What could be the reason, please tell me
Иван Беляев if the problem is only in reverse, then my guess would be a problem in the override circuit.
I don't have any hub fluid is there any other oil I can put in there
I think most people use transmission fluid
Type F transmission fluid, for fords
i use tractor fluid i researched it get wet brake tractor hydraulick oil i use it gear n all well [not in engine of course] in all of it a++ 38.00 usd ish fer 5 galleons of it
Thanks for your input!..
Thank you
Is the strut bearing the one you greased and the hub bearings are the one with the transmission fluid?
What keeps the greased bearing from mixing with the atf. Bearings
There's a seal on the back of the hub that seals it to the round shiny piece on the strut as it turns. Took me a minute to figure it out, but I realized he's right about greasing the strut bearings and not the hub bearings. I'm using Polaris Demand Drive Fluid on the one I'm fixing but only cuz it belongs to a customer. If it were mine I'd use type F. I've heard where people actually crashed because of their Demand Drive front-ends not being maintained properly, so I go by the book on someone else's.
your old school?? put bearing and grease in swandwich bag seal! then pack the same way in bag! dah!!!
What year was this
Timothy Hendricks The quad is a 1996 if that is what you are asking.
why dont you wash it before yoy do ajob like this? especially for a vidio
i would like to know if there is some polaris video showing how the magnetic hub engage works, an animation or similar. it really seems to be witchcraft lol. fu**ng magnets XD
Far Altright I haven’t seen a good video describing the hubs. You’re right, it is witchcraft. I’m not a fan of this setup.
Do you use Polaris pure for fluids or do you use something else? I have a 95 and gonna do sone service to it but, not sure if I have to go to dealer and get all Polaris pure fluids
gallitocinco I did not use Polaris oil. I just used a good quality oil.
No grease
People usually don't read comments before or after watching a video. You really should remove those video! Besides a light greasing to the seals (for ease of installation) NO GREASE should be introduced to this system.
You don’t grease the bearings you have to use atf or polaris demand drive fluid your 4x4 will not work with grease
Dimes for adds
If had a dime for every unwanted fucin add
Theres another fucin dime
Don’t use that grease
Hey if you guys are looking for a video on the Polaris sportsman ETX cv shaft replacement, I just made a video on it, check it out here! th-cam.com/video/DAFNg-0EAbM/w-d-xo.html
At least do it to where we can see it on video whats the point of making a video if your not showing us
most annoying first minute and a half on youtube.