Sean, I’ve owned my SSII for 18 years, and I’ve never touched the paint with anything other than soap and water. I have a bunch of those chips on the front edge of the hood and fenders just like you showed. I was just inspired to clean up the old rig. When I get to doing it, I’ll post before and after. I appreciate these videos!
The vibration could be the drive shaft is out of "phase". Only sharing this because a friend had a similar issue. Even after replacing the u-joins the vibration was still there. We ended up taking the drive shaft to be balanced. The drive shift guy pointed out the drive shaft was out of "phase" as soon as we walked in. Basically from what I understand the u-joints must be 180 degrees off from each other when you draw a straight line from the front to rear joint....?
I'm in the process of buying a 1976 Scout. It's all original with original paint. It does need some body work, but it's from the desert so not a whole lot. I think it's the same color as your Scout in the video. I'm super excited to get it here and get started on bringing it back to life. :)
I’d like to come visit you guys as I’m in Southwest Wisconsin and only about 3.5 hours away. I have a 79 Tahitian red Scout that came out of Arizona. I did the clay-bar and I used that Meguiars rubbing compound. and then wax. It Turned out really well. You mentioned that yours needs a tail cap. Mine also needs a tail cap as it’s damaged. I’d like to share some pictures with you and get your input if the patina can be matched with a new cap installed.
Great vid! And timely. I've been thinking a lot about my paint. Someone rattle-can painted my green '77 Scout. It's all chalky now and makes a mess of your clothes if you brush up against it. I wonder if there's a product that I could use to remove that crappy rattle-can camo paint down to the original paint?
I faced a similar dilemma on the Grenoble green SSII clone…the magic trick was some 2000 and 2500 grit wet sanding! Then follow the steps in this video
@@anythingscout That actually makes a lot of sense. I bet some careful, high grit, wet sanding would do the trick. Thanks! Pretty sure mine is Grenoble green under the camo rattle can job. Interior metal is a beautiful shade of green.
Also to add to my last comment . Clay can be used with a simple soapy water solution. The clay is simply grabbing shards that are wedged into your paint. Buying a solution like that for it is throwing your money away . Dish soap and water in a spray bottle is your answer. Now back to the meguiars iron oxide eater spray - It won’t affect the paint. it’s the same as the clay bar but is eating away the dust as opposed to actually pulling it out. It isn’t very effective at that and large shards will stay wedged in the paint and not eaten. Again you don’t want it hitting any metal cause it will cause rust on that metal and that’s the reason not to spray it Willy nilly on your paint. It’s for wheels only and it will also eat your lug nuts there
For my third comment here. He is correct with the polish you don’t want to remove paint. So use a product like mequiars number 7 show car glaze. You don’t want grit. He may be using something similar.
Thanks and great question. I’ve seen some creative use of an airbrush or even some pho-tina hacks to add some distressing…I’ll have to do that soon! I need to replace a corner cap
I love it. It’s from our friends at VERO Watches…they are Scout friendly people and craftsmen! Check em out and tell em we sent ya and they’ll hook you up
Sean, I’ve owned my SSII for 18 years, and I’ve never touched the paint with anything other than soap and water. I have a bunch of those chips on the front edge of the hood and fenders just like you showed. I was just inspired to clean up the old rig. When I get to doing it, I’ll post before and after. I appreciate these videos!
Dude! That’s awesome and please do! Send me before and after! It’s worth it!
sweet!
The vibration could be the drive shaft is out of "phase". Only sharing this because a friend had a similar issue. Even after replacing the u-joins the vibration was still there. We ended up taking the drive shaft to be balanced. The drive shift guy pointed out the drive shaft was out of "phase" as soon as we walked in. Basically from what I understand the u-joints must be 180 degrees off from each other when you draw a straight line from the front to rear joint....?
Wow that looks great. I am in love with this rig what a beauty
I'm in the process of buying a 1976 Scout. It's all original with original paint. It does need some body work, but it's from the desert so not a whole lot. I think it's the same color as your Scout in the video. I'm super excited to get it here and get started on bringing it back to life. :)
Was there a follow up video after this? I haven’t seen on me yet?
Lastly the music reminds me of peacetime in a medieval manor while the peasants are happily growing grains
Haha! I tried to keep the same tunes flowing the whole vid! 😭😭😂
I’d like to come visit you guys as I’m in Southwest Wisconsin and only about 3.5 hours away. I have a 79 Tahitian red Scout that came out of Arizona. I did the clay-bar and I used that Meguiars rubbing compound. and then wax. It Turned out really well. You mentioned that yours needs a tail cap. Mine also needs a tail cap as it’s damaged. I’d like to share some pictures with you and get your input if the patina can be matched with a new cap installed.
Thats so awesome, come down sometime! As far as photos you can either DM them to us on Instagram or send us an email at: parts@anythingscout.com
Great vid! And timely. I've been thinking a lot about my paint. Someone rattle-can painted my green '77 Scout. It's all chalky now and makes a mess of your clothes if you brush up against it. I wonder if there's a product that I could use to remove that crappy rattle-can camo paint down to the original paint?
I faced a similar dilemma on the Grenoble green SSII clone…the magic trick was some 2000 and 2500 grit wet sanding! Then follow the steps in this video
@@anythingscout That actually makes a lot of sense. I bet some careful, high grit, wet sanding would do the trick. Thanks! Pretty sure mine is Grenoble green under the camo rattle can job. Interior metal is a beautiful shade of green.
Also to add to my last comment . Clay can be used with a simple soapy water solution. The clay is simply grabbing shards that are wedged into your paint. Buying a solution like that for it is throwing your money away . Dish soap and water in a spray bottle is your answer. Now back to the meguiars iron oxide eater spray - It won’t affect the paint. it’s the same as the clay bar but is eating away the dust as opposed to actually pulling it out. It isn’t very effective at that and large shards will stay wedged in the paint and not eaten. Again you don’t want it hitting any metal cause it will cause rust on that metal and that’s the reason not to spray it Willy nilly on your paint. It’s for wheels only and it will also eat your lug nuts there
For my third comment here. He is correct with the polish you don’t want to remove paint. So use a product like mequiars number 7 show car glaze. You don’t want grit. He may be using something similar.
If you ever need a kidney, or heart... I'd give you one for that thing. My favorite og color. Any tips on matching a repair to old faded paint?
Thanks and great question. I’ve seen some creative use of an airbrush or even some pho-tina hacks to add some distressing…I’ll have to do that soon! I need to replace a corner cap
that rust stuff works good. keep that scout running
Thanks!! I liked it and will experiment more with it
What is the name of that color? Did they use that color in 1977?
IH buckskin tan!
Tell me more about this watch you’re wearing. I’ve seen it in several of the Anything Scout vids.
I love it. It’s from our friends at VERO Watches…they are Scout friendly people and craftsmen! Check em out and tell em we sent ya and they’ll hook you up