A quick run through of the current state of my Annex K3. Really liking this printer. Shout out to the Annex team for an awesome job! Annex K3 GitHub github.com/Ann...
OP: Puts together a feat of engineering for a 3d printer Also OP: Mentions the LEDs as a highlight Jokes aside awesome printer! Hard to decide between a K3 and a VzBot
The ribbon is 26g. The Aussies calculated and are running 50w heaters without issue with 4 lines x 26g. This one uses 8 x 26g, so 100w or so? I plan on using 70w so should be a nice amount of headroom. They worked it all out. I just hacked it to be double.
@@mandryd This also relies heavily on the voltage you're running on. You could push it to 48v for example, but then you would need a compatible heater cartridge.
Thanks. It's actually 12mm lol. Probably should have gone less to lose less build height in hindsight. It's working well though and since it's only 180x180 it doesn't take too long to heat up.
I'm using honeybadger cross rails and LDO rail kit for the rest (the full honeybadger kit had not yet come out when i built mine). Motors are 2504AH, so 1.8 degree steppers which isthe main reason why they are quieter in comparison to the 0.9 degree steppers.
Okay I'm fairly new to 3d printing and have been designing and printing pc-abs car parts for shop I work at. I only print at 50-60mm/sec on an ender 3 v2 with upgraded sprite pro extruder and auto bed leveler. Can I assume that I could be printing at these speeds with this build with pc-abs? This would GREATLY increase 3d print applications at my shop. Any guidance appreciated!
You would definitely be able to print way way way faster than you ender 3 with a k3. I giggle every time.i print something with my k3...it's really that fast. Drop by the annex engineering discord. Folks can help ya out there!
@@AlexG207 github.com/MakerBogans/roadkill That's the original roadkill. The one I was using in the video was a modified one. Since this video I have switched to the standard k3biner board to make it easier to switch between toolhead. If you want one of these boards and you're in the US I have some sitting around in a box.
@@mandryd thanks! Just curious do you have like a list of what electronics and you're klipper settings? I plan to build one after I finish my second 2.4 and want it that quiet!
@@OscarOliu I have a spider 2.2 with 2209s. For quiet, the main thing that matters is using 1.8 degree steppers for the gantry motors. I have ldo 2504AH motors. For these motors, you have to use couplers since the shaft is short (the couplers have a tendency to break if you push the k3 super hard. I haven't had an issue so far staying at 15k accel). However, there was a preorder recently by lukeslab for "magnum bois" which is a long shafted 2504ah with the correct length for the k3 so you wouldn't have to use couplers. I think there's more info in the discord. My config is pretty standard otherwise.
I'm always fascinated with these kind of printers. With all that speed, and compared to usual speeds (60-100mm/s) do you increase the temperature as well? If so, by how much?
I guess it depends on whether or not you are pushing the limits of your hotend. This printer is running an NF-Crazy HF hotend which can push somewhere around 25 mm^3/second of ABS with a standard 0.4 nozzle. So, 250 mm/s, 0.4mm line width, and 0.2mm layer height = around 20 mm^3/s, which is well within the limits of the hotend. If I push the speeds some more and start approaching the limits of the hotend, then I would need to up the temps to compensate.
@@mandryd - we have an Uktimaker s5 at work and it’s too flimsy to run fast like this. I keep pushing them to release a new printer… they should take a leaf out of your book!
@@OnceShy_TwiceBitten croxy is cross gantry. It's a bit different than corexy which uses two belts and two motors. Croxy uses 4 motors and 4 belts and has much shorter belt lengths. Theres other stuff too, but maybe a different video can explain it better.
@@mandryd not to be confused with the Croxy project, we generally refer to our printers as 'cross gantry' rather than croxy so people don't get confused about our relationship with the Croxy printers
extra love for such a clean build!!
very nice! probably one of the quieter k3s out there honestly
That thing is gorgeous. Well done.
The extruder cable is super cool!
OP: Puts together a feat of engineering for a 3d printer
Also OP: Mentions the LEDs as a highlight
Jokes aside awesome printer! Hard to decide between a K3 and a VzBot
Awesome buil man!! Congrats! How much current can this flex ribbon cable carry ? Wondering on the hotend..
The ribbon is 26g. The Aussies calculated and are running 50w heaters without issue with 4 lines x 26g. This one uses 8 x 26g, so 100w or so? I plan on using 70w so should be a nice amount of headroom. They worked it all out. I just hacked it to be double.
@@mandryd This also relies heavily on the voltage you're running on. You could push it to 48v for example, but then you would need a compatible heater cartridge.
@@MarinusMakesStuff for sure! Forgot to mention I'm on 24v. So definitely could up that if needed.
Very cool!! 👍
Sweet frame
Thanks, I won it from this really awesome guy named nirecue :)
god that is quiet, even quiter than my ender 3, with noctua fans, and tmc2209...
Dat thiccc bed doh. Jeez man. What is that 10mm? Excellent build. Truly.
Thanks. It's actually 12mm lol. Probably should have gone less to lose less build height in hindsight. It's working well though and since it's only 180x180 it doesn't take too long to heat up.
@@mandryd ya know I've heard the thicker you go the more it tends to warp. More metal more expansion and such.
I'm soooo jellllyyyy
Hi,where do you find this unbilical cable?
Amazing printer
github.com/MakerBogans/BoganParts/tree/main/safflower/RoadkillExtended
Nice build nice and quiet are you using upgraded rails/motors?
I'm using honeybadger cross rails and LDO rail kit for the rest (the full honeybadger kit had not yet come out when i built mine). Motors are 2504AH, so 1.8 degree steppers which isthe main reason why they are quieter in comparison to the 0.9 degree steppers.
@@mandryd thank you for your response I’m sure it will help many!🙏
is 15k your outer perimeter acceleration or just for the infill? Nice build btw
15k for everything :). Thanks!
Okay I'm fairly new to 3d printing and have been designing and printing pc-abs car parts for shop I work at. I only print at 50-60mm/sec on an ender 3 v2 with upgraded sprite pro extruder and auto bed leveler. Can I assume that I could be printing at these speeds with this build with pc-abs? This would GREATLY increase 3d print applications at my shop. Any guidance appreciated!
You would definitely be able to print way way way faster than you ender 3 with a k3. I giggle every time.i print something with my k3...it's really that fast. Drop by the annex engineering discord. Folks can help ya out there!
@@mandryd thank-you!!
@@qquantumpi take a look at awd Vzbot
Got a link to the Roadkill board?
@@AlexG207 github.com/MakerBogans/roadkill
That's the original roadkill. The one I was using in the video was a modified one.
Since this video I have switched to the standard k3biner board to make it easier to switch between toolhead. If you want one of these boards and you're in the US I have some sitting around in a box.
Hey, What is you build vol Is it bigger than k3 180 mm3? Wondering seeing that prusa build plate.
My k3 bed is 180x180. The prusa sheet overhangs the actual bed by a little bit.
Layer Hight?
0.2
That bed looks THICK lol, what thickness is that plate?
1/2" thick bed. in hindsight it's a bit overkill lol. That said, the k3 has no problems with the bed sagging when it's off :).
@@mandryd thanks! Just curious do you have like a list of what electronics and you're klipper settings? I plan to build one after I finish my second 2.4 and want it that quiet!
@@OscarOliu I have a spider 2.2 with 2209s. For quiet, the main thing that matters is using 1.8 degree steppers for the gantry motors. I have ldo 2504AH motors. For these motors, you have to use couplers since the shaft is short (the couplers have a tendency to break if you push the k3 super hard. I haven't had an issue so far staying at 15k accel). However, there was a preorder recently by lukeslab for "magnum bois" which is a long shafted 2504ah with the correct length for the k3 so you wouldn't have to use couplers. I think there's more info in the discord. My config is pretty standard otherwise.
a Ribbon cable on its side is way better than what bamboo used, cable chains and type C
I'm always fascinated with these kind of printers. With all that speed, and compared to usual speeds (60-100mm/s) do you increase the temperature as well? If so, by how much?
I guess it depends on whether or not you are pushing the limits of your hotend. This printer is running an NF-Crazy HF hotend which can push somewhere around 25 mm^3/second of ABS with a standard 0.4 nozzle. So, 250 mm/s, 0.4mm line width, and 0.2mm layer height = around 20 mm^3/s, which is well within the limits of the hotend. If I push the speeds some more and start approaching the limits of the hotend, then I would need to up the temps to compensate.
@@mandryd seems like the volume you mentioned is too much, I don't know about the details of that hotend but it seems like impossible or difficult
@@himanilsharma2147 What seems off to you? 0.4mm width * 0.2mm layer height * 250 mm/s = 20 mm^3/s
@@himanilsharma2147 mm * mm * mm/s = mm^3/s
@@mandryd Yeah, 20 mm³/s is nothing extreme. Even a stock Creality hotend can do over 25 with a CHT.
This a CROXY?
Yup croxy
@@mandryd - we have an Uktimaker s5 at work and it’s too flimsy to run fast like this. I keep pushing them to release a new printer… they should take a leaf out of your book!
@@mandryd that the same as a corexy? just a different way to say it?
@@OnceShy_TwiceBitten croxy is cross gantry. It's a bit different than corexy which uses two belts and two motors. Croxy uses 4 motors and 4 belts and has much shorter belt lengths. Theres other stuff too, but maybe a different video can explain it better.
@@mandryd not to be confused with the Croxy project, we generally refer to our printers as 'cross gantry' rather than croxy so people don't get confused about our relationship with the Croxy printers
only bad thing is the motors inside the main chamber...
...except it's not a problem when you get motors rates for the temps.
Where are the files located for the toolhead?
github.com/Annex-Engineering/Gasherbrum-K3