First time I ever heard about over-stretching a string. Thank you for the explanation and sacrificing that poor string for our education benefit! Been playing for almost 2 decades and I still learn something new about guitar setup every now and again.
Excellent video. Releasing the lengthwise twist is so important and so often overlooked. I believe this is the first time I’ve seen somebody else mention it. Kudos!
Thank you for explaining why you should not to go over the tailpiece it makes more sense just to adjust it higher and you won't scratch the tailpiece also I never realized that tool for stretching strings really mangles the string I've watched countless videos on this nobody has ever shown it or explain it
Thanks you for this lesson. I knew this method but none about string wrap and about over stretching! I'll be very gentle now. Long life to you and your son.
Great video! The locking method is exactly the way i wind my strings, but I have never thought about releasing the twist. I will look into that the next time I change strings. It is great to get advices from a real pro!
I usually leave one string on so there is tension on the neck. Makes it a little tougher to clean the fretboard, but I've always felt it better for the neck rather then release all of the string tension at once. Love the knot trick on the tuning post, did not know that. Thank you Juha!
Thanks for your feedback Buzz! It's ok of course to do it as you wrote (leave one string in place) - but I have to add, that in my 25+ years experience stringing guitars more or less daily, I have never experienced neck issues due to removing all the strings. Just wanted to mention, in case others wonder if it might be risky. :)
Really great advice regarding not putting too many winds on the “D” and “G” string posts to avoid an excessive angle over the nut. I’ve decided to experiment by using your locking ties on the plain strings and “D”.... and the “1 over, 2 under” winding on the “A” and “E” strings. Looking forward to improved tuning stability. Really appreciate the attention to detail in your videos mate! Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺!
Great! Exactly the way i wind my strings, picked up the metod from classical guitar string and later saw it on Martin restring video. locks the string in place and only one wind around the peg is enough. nice video, keep it up!
cool well done ...little care needed when cleaning around the bridge/tailpiece that you don't accidently adjust the height by catching the clean cloth on the adjustment pole pieces, maybe best to take some measurements first and make sure the strings don't touch the back of the bridge after restringing !
Thank you Gerry. Ah - yes - I didn't mention in my commentating that if one removes the bridge to clean from under, it's a good idea to hold those adjustment wheels in place with a finger - which I'm doing more or less on auto-pilot there.. :D
I guess I'll try that tge next time restringing. To be honest I have strung my guitars for 15 years now with only string through the tuner post hole, and then tightened all the excess under the hole. No knots whatsoever. The only time I have noticed the string slip, has been with locking tuners. Well, they are auto-lock tuners, that need tightening by hand to really hold.
That is how I put strings on my LP. I have never made a knot like in the video. But perhaps I will try this method next time. I put string through with a lot of slack, then turn 90 degrees, pull up and tighten. No problem. But I like the little knot idea.
To see witch string is witch, I take both strings at the same distance, like 15cm is good, and the one that bends more is the lightest one. ;) I never make a knot such as Martin does. But If you like your way, it's your way.
This could happen if the string is either cut too short (so it doesn't wind any whole rounds around the tuner) or you end up bending the string back and forth many times before getting the knot right. But if the string winds around the post a couple of rounds and tying the knot goes smoothly as shown in the video, I don't think there is such risk. I've done this way for 25+ years, to thousands of guitars....
Anybody know what the 3rd lug on a tone pot is for? I never see it used. Say I'm looking at the bottom of the pot, lugs facing me. 1,2,3...... Do they have specific functions?
The functional principle of all guitar potentiometers is the same, regardless if it is a volume or tone pot. A potentiometer is an adjustable resistor, and depending on how you wire it, you can "do things" with that resistor. If you hook up the 3rd lug to ground and your pickup hot wire to the 1st lug, and solder the output hot wire to the middle lug - voilá - it becomes a volume pot. If, instead, you solder a capacitor from 1st lug to ground, your signal hot wire to the middle, and leave the 3rd lug "floating" (no connection, you have a tone pot. :) So, in the case of the tone pot, the adjustable resistor moves from direct signal (pot turned open, towards the 3rd lug) to a darker tone, cutting off the highs the more the cap "bleeds" the highs to the ground through the 1st lug. Sorry for the long explanation - I hope it helped, instead of just making you more confused, ha! :D
When using strings with round core wire (DR Veritas) do you think the knot is a sharp enough angle to keep the string from unwinding? Thank you for the great content!
I can only speak for myself here and understand that many people swear by this method but, in all honesty, I don’t like this method. I have always preferred one wrap over the post hole then 2-3 under the hole.
Thank you. Yes, the method you mention is probably the most common one referred to in a lot of places, and I used to string guitars in that same way for a looong time - and in many cases, there is no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well. I have found, however, in my 25+ years of experience stringing up all sorts of guitars more or less on daily basis, that when stringed the way you referred to, oftentimes the plain strings (especially E and B) can slip from the tuner posts for quite some time until the tuning settles - and in certain cases (a bit worn / rounded off tuner post holes, or light gauge strings) those skinniest strings can even slip off the posts completely! Also, especially in the case of a typical Les Paul with a 17° headstock angle, I want to avoid wrapping many rounds of string around the tuner posts in order to not increase the already steep angle the strings travel from the nut to tuners. On the positive side, the method with wrapping one round over the post and then 2 rounds under is really easy to do and if in rush, it is also quicker to remove the old strings from the posts, if they're wound this way. Just wanted to address these findings of mine, even though you clearly mentioned you don't like the method I showed (which is perfectly ok!) in case other wonder which way might be better for them. :)
@@ruokangas I used to have issues with the treble strings slipping a bit at first. I did come up with a solution: two over and two under on the B and E strings.
if you don't want to wrap the strings, then cut out a piece of wood, so the tail piece is flush with the body. then can have strings at less angle, and keep sustain if it even affects it. not really tested it.
Thanks. No, typically Les Paul style guitars don't need those extra windings around the tuner posts because the Les Paul headstock angle is so steep. In other words, you'll have enough pressure at the nut without the gradual string excess that I talk about on episode 6 (stringing a Telecaster) or episode 3 (..Stratocaster).
Yeah I have a few good tips for acoustic guitars as well. Will make videos of a common flattop steelstringed guitar and a classical guitar restringing soon, too, so stay tuned. :)
@@aldocero8959 Ah! Ok, you could simply tape over the ends of the tune-o-matic in a similar way as I did for the tailpiece. If the tape extends over the height adjustment thumbwheels, it will be sufficient to keep things in place. The only thing you should be aware of is that if the tape extends on the top finish, there's a slight risk tearing off chips of lacquer - especially be careful in case the guitar has nitrocellulose finish, relic'd or cracked, etc.
3:20 - if Jimmy Page wrapped his strings around the stop piece, I’ll 100% go straight through the stop piece. I try to do the complete opposite of what that hack guitar player did.
First time I ever heard about over-stretching a string. Thank you for the explanation and sacrificing that poor string for our education benefit! Been playing for almost 2 decades and I still learn something new about guitar setup every now and again.
🙏
best, clearest restringing on youtube, thanks!
Thank you! 🙏
Excellent video. Releasing the lengthwise twist is so important and so often overlooked. I believe this is the first time I’ve seen somebody else mention it. Kudos!
Thank you!
Thank you for explaining why you should not to go over the tailpiece it makes more sense just to adjust it higher and you won't scratch the tailpiece also I never realized that tool for stretching strings really mangles the string I've watched countless videos on this nobody has ever shown it or explain it
Happy to hear you found this piece of information useful! :)
Great tutorial. Thank you for doing this.
My pleasure! Glad you found the video useful.
Thanks you for this lesson. I knew this method but none about string wrap and about over stretching! I'll be very gentle now. Long life to you and your son.
Thank you Bonzo! 🙏
Great tip regarding twists and over-stretching strings!
Happy to hear I could be of help!
Very clear! Nice work, thank you.
Thank you! 🙏
Great video! The locking method is exactly the way i wind my strings, but I have never thought about releasing the twist. I will look into that the next time I change strings.
It is great to get advices from a real pro!
Thank you! Happy to hear the video was helpful! :)
Big fan from WV, USA. Your videos are so patient and smart. Thx for taking the time to educate me.
Hi! Thank you so much! Happy that my videos have been of help.
Thank you so much for this detailed videos. You're Rock 👍
Thank you Alfred!
I usually leave one string on so there is tension on the neck. Makes it a little tougher to clean the fretboard, but I've always felt it better for the neck rather then release all of the string tension at once. Love the knot trick on the tuning post, did not know that. Thank you Juha!
Thanks for your feedback Buzz! It's ok of course to do it as you wrote (leave one string in place) - but I have to add, that in my 25+ years experience stringing guitars more or less daily, I have never experienced neck issues due to removing all the strings. Just wanted to mention, in case others wonder if it might be risky. :)
@@ruokangas somehow I suspect you know better than I do Juha. Thanks again!
Really great advice regarding not putting too many winds on the “D” and “G” string posts to avoid an excessive angle over the nut.
I’ve decided to experiment by using your locking ties on the plain strings and “D”.... and the “1 over, 2 under” winding on the “A” and “E” strings. Looking forward to improved tuning stability. Really appreciate the attention to detail in your videos mate! Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺!
Thank you! Glad to hear you found the video helpful! 👍🏼
Great! Exactly the way i wind my strings, picked up the metod from classical guitar string and later saw it on Martin restring video. locks the string in place and only one wind around the peg is enough. nice video, keep it up!
Thank you Marky! Yup, I kinda recall I've also learned this method from stringing classical guitars, but it's long ago, can't be 100% sure! :D
Next a Strat (with a ”floating” trem): changing a set of 9s to a set of 10s and the adjustments one has to make?
Yes these kind of concrete tips is always godd to have
Thanks Max!
Thank you for this, most detailed and best explain use of this technique on You Tube.
Great video, I learned some important information. Thanks.
Thank you Jon, happy that I could be of help! 🙏
cool well done ...little care needed when cleaning around the bridge/tailpiece that you don't accidently adjust the height by catching the clean cloth on the adjustment pole pieces, maybe best to take some measurements first and make sure the strings don't touch the back of the bridge after restringing !
Thank you Gerry. Ah - yes - I didn't mention in my commentating that if one removes the bridge to clean from under, it's a good idea to hold those adjustment wheels in place with a finger - which I'm doing more or less on auto-pilot there.. :D
Thank you so much!!! :D
Great .. He's gonna trick us into watching a video about philosophy
I guess I'll try that tge next time restringing. To be honest I have strung my guitars for 15 years now with only string through the tuner post hole, and then tightened all the excess under the hole. No knots whatsoever. The only time I have noticed the string slip, has been with locking tuners. Well, they are auto-lock tuners, that need tightening by hand to really hold.
That is how I put strings on my LP. I have never made a knot like in the video. But perhaps I will try this method next time. I put string through with a lot of slack, then turn 90 degrees, pull up and tighten. No problem. But I like the little knot idea.
To see witch string is witch, I take both strings at the same distance, like 15cm is good, and the one that bends more is the lightest one. ;) I never make a knot such as Martin does. But If you like your way, it's your way.
👍👍
Do you angle the nut slots on LP/Gibson style headstocks?
Yes - or more precisely, I curve the slot downwards to minimize the friction.
Putting a knot at the tuner can cause eventual breakage on the E and B strings at the knot. At least it did for me.
This could happen if the string is either cut too short (so it doesn't wind any whole rounds around the tuner) or you end up bending the string back and forth many times before getting the knot right. But if the string winds around the post a couple of rounds and tying the knot goes smoothly as shown in the video, I don't think there is such risk. I've done this way for 25+ years, to thousands of guitars....
Holy God! What's up with your left thumb? Just curious....
A little accident 25 years ago with a pin router. Blood, sweat & tears... Ouch.
Anybody know what the 3rd lug on a tone pot is for? I never see it used. Say I'm looking at the bottom of the pot, lugs facing me. 1,2,3......
Do they have specific functions?
The functional principle of all guitar potentiometers is the same, regardless if it is a volume or tone pot. A potentiometer is an adjustable resistor, and depending on how you wire it, you can "do things" with that resistor. If you hook up the 3rd lug to ground and your pickup hot wire to the 1st lug, and solder the output hot wire to the middle lug - voilá - it becomes a volume pot. If, instead, you solder a capacitor from 1st lug to ground, your signal hot wire to the middle, and leave the 3rd lug "floating" (no connection, you have a tone pot. :) So, in the case of the tone pot, the adjustable resistor moves from direct signal (pot turned open, towards the 3rd lug) to a darker tone, cutting off the highs the more the cap "bleeds" the highs to the ground through the 1st lug. Sorry for the long explanation - I hope it helped, instead of just making you more confused, ha! :D
@@ruokangas
That.......was the answer I was looking for.
Thank you
When using strings with round core wire (DR Veritas) do you think the knot is a sharp enough angle to keep the string from unwinding? Thank you for the great content!
Thank you Kimi. Yes, the knot is definitely sharp enough to keep the string from unwinding. :)
I can only speak for myself here and understand that many people swear by this method but, in all honesty, I don’t like this method. I have always preferred one wrap over the post hole then 2-3 under the hole.
Thank you. Yes, the method you mention is probably the most common one referred to in a lot of places, and I used to string guitars in that same way for a looong time - and in many cases, there is no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well. I have found, however, in my 25+ years of experience stringing up all sorts of guitars more or less on daily basis, that when stringed the way you referred to, oftentimes the plain strings (especially E and B) can slip from the tuner posts for quite some time until the tuning settles - and in certain cases (a bit worn / rounded off tuner post holes, or light gauge strings) those skinniest strings can even slip off the posts completely! Also, especially in the case of a typical Les Paul with a 17° headstock angle, I want to avoid wrapping many rounds of string around the tuner posts in order to not increase the already steep angle the strings travel from the nut to tuners. On the positive side, the method with wrapping one round over the post and then 2 rounds under is really easy to do and if in rush, it is also quicker to remove the old strings from the posts, if they're wound this way. Just wanted to address these findings of mine, even though you clearly mentioned you don't like the method I showed (which is perfectly ok!) in case other wonder which way might be better for them. :)
@@ruokangas I used to have issues with the treble strings slipping a bit at first. I did come up with a solution: two over and two under on the B and E strings.
if you don't want to wrap the strings, then cut out a piece of wood, so the tail piece is flush with the body. then can have strings at less angle, and keep sustain if it even affects it. not really tested it.
Hi, quick question. Do Les Paul type guitars not need the gradual string excess like say Telecaster type guitars (like in ep6)? Thanks
Thanks. No, typically Les Paul style guitars don't need those extra windings around the tuner posts because the Les Paul headstock angle is so steep. In other words, you'll have enough pressure at the nut without the gradual string excess that I talk about on episode 6 (stringing a Telecaster) or episode 3 (..Stratocaster).
@@ruokangas Thanks a lot. Appreciate it 🙂
what about acoustic guitars? any pitfalls?
Yeah I have a few good tips for acoustic guitars as well. Will make videos of a common flattop steelstringed guitar and a classical guitar restringing soon, too, so stay tuned. :)
Big bends nut sauce instructions advice to add substance after restringing.
How can I fix the bridge with tape?
Not sure I understand your question? On the video I use tape so the tailpiece doesn’t drop off when strings removed…
@@ruokangas Sorry for the confusion. I meant how to put tape in the tune-o-matic bridge to avoid misadjusting the bridge height
@@aldocero8959 Ah! Ok, you could simply tape over the ends of the tune-o-matic in a similar way as I did for the tailpiece. If the tape extends over the height adjustment thumbwheels, it will be sufficient to keep things in place. The only thing you should be aware of is that if the tape extends on the top finish, there's a slight risk tearing off chips of lacquer - especially be careful in case the guitar has nitrocellulose finish, relic'd or cracked, etc.
@@ruokangas Thanks a lot for the tip!
3:20 - if Jimmy Page wrapped his strings around the stop piece, I’ll 100% go straight through the stop piece. I try to do the complete opposite of what that hack guitar player did.
I prefer ALL the tuners to turn away from tail piece when tightening. Just me I guess. Nice demo thought. Thks
Why would anyone go and use that "string stretcher" now? Thing should be banned.