Beginners Install Drywall! How bad was it? | Off Grid Cabin Build #58
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- In this episode of our off grid cabin build series, we are installing sheetrock or drywall for the first time. We are also taping and mudding the seams for the first time.
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The fold in the tape goes towards the seem in the drywall. God bless you guys.
Grab a cheap tube of lipstick. Cover the edges of the outlet box to be cut. Press the sheetrock against the wall paying special attention to the location of the outlet box and pressing firmly in that location. Pull away from the wall and cut the board. 😉
Cool tip
Syl Hunt - Thanks. Saw it done ages ago and have never forgotten it. 😂
The lipstick tip is what I learned from my brother-in-law who was a builder.
317 stitches - And it works too! Love that trick!
Fortunately putting outlet/switch boxes is a lot easier here in Europe. Put up the plaster board first then use a bell saw to cut holes in the sheetroc for the boxes. The boxes (singles, doubles, trebles) push fit into the holes and have screws that pull up wedges behind the sheetroc to hold them in place.
My TIP - On that small piece of drywall. Instead of putting it at the bottom, put the two full sheets at the top and bottom and the small piece in the center. That way when you mud, you wont have to bent over to mud it. It will save your back, trust me.
Also, wet your mud till its like a thick pancake batter, doing that will eliminate the whole wetting the tape process.
And tape your Vertical gaps first then the Horizontal gaps.
This was my very first thought. Btw if your walls just happen to less than 8 feet high, run the drywall vertically. Its perfectly fine to do so and you will have a lot less taping to do. And if you dont want to rent or buy a lift you can make braces out of 2 by 4s
I was coming to tell you the same thing, putting the RIP in the middle makes it to where you don't have to bend over when finishing.
thtadthtshldntbe you only do stand up sheets on steel studs with 5/8 drywall... wood framing with 1/2 inch drywall will be wavy and very hard to hide especially for someone who doesn’t do taping for a living
Pro tip. Keep the bottom edge of the sheet rock an inch above your sub-floor to keep any water from soaking up from a spill. For as much as you have to do, a sheet rock jack can be had for less than $200 and will save you a LOT of sketchy "hold this for me" moments. When you're done you can sell it for at least half what you paid for it. Looking good.
Thats how we use to do it as well, a small scrap of the cut off and as you stand up the sheets, one at each corner on the ground to give water clearance.
After you put the tape on you need to put a skim coat over the tape to seal it in the joint compound.
Hi Martin, There are tons of comments on this video. Nice first attempt at doing drywall. Fortunately most of what you did will be covered by upper and lower cabinets along with appliances. So, even if there are issues most of it will be covered up. Thanks for sharing your progress on you build series.
Thanks. That is why I’m glad we started here.
I like to use the mesh tape. I put a thick bed of joint compound and then tape above it. Make sure the joint compound is mixed and use a little water to soften it a little. I never worry how much compound I use because it is very easy to sand. Sand using a square orbital sander with a mesh screen cut to size and if you have a shopvac connect it. 3 coats later should be perfectly smooth.
I would put some insulation in the floor to sound proof that love loft ;)
Will do over the down stairs bedrooms.
Martin, the thing about drywall is that the better you do it the easier the taping and mudding and sanding will be. So the more you do the better you will get at it.
Pro tip. Add a block between studs 36" off the floor where door knobs might strike. When door stops fail a dent is easier to patch than a hole.
Martin no worries. Mud and tape are your best friends. Putting up sheet rock is never ending you learn something every day. Must agree with another comment. Raise the electric box behind the ice box.
Same for me as the Swedish guy said. Playwoold/OSB under the drywall for holding stuff up, and where I come from, the sheets and the wall height are the same, so I install them standing on the floor. Also good to paint/prime the walls before any cooking starts, you are going to want to be able to clean them later! But keep up the good work! I always watch all commercial to the end in your channel. Least I can do!
Good idea.
Home Renovision DIY channel on TH-cam is doing a series now on drywall for beginners, it is a good channel to go to for any DIY projects, the guy is awesome! For you not having any building experience, you are doing a fantastic job! Love your channel!
Martain. I'm not familiar with the suggested channel but it sounds like it's worth your time. Reading your fan base make suggestions, (well meant) is scary. Now's a good time to step back and watch a good instructional. Rocking is not pre-med but there is a right way.👍
In sweden we use “Secure” wall and that is a 1/2 inch plywood and on top of that the green 1/2 inch drywall in kitchen and bathrooms ,this is for easy mount of cabins etc
and strong .And we always mount the sheets vertical! .
And put in insulation between the inside walls and the floor
Invest in a few items, a cordless rotozip is worth every penny, and a banjo for tapeing, dont worry about getting the paper wet, I believe it works better dry. If u are using a 5 gal bucket of pre mix mudd, make sure you mix it every time you open the tub, also add about one bottle of water to every pre mix bucket!
Well you wanted comments. coming from the construction industry from the last 15 years I give you props for building your own home with not knowing every step involved I don't think I could do that I'm too much of a perfectionist. but I must say some of these things I see you doing are painful to watch as far as drywall tips hang your drywall sheets over the electrical boxes even though you don't have a Rotozip just cut them out with the saw afterwards just write down your measurements and the drywall sheet or wall above before you hang your rock. I know this is complicated do you understand in text format you could always try watching a TH-cam video😉
Use liquid nails oof another construction adhesive on all studs before screwing in. It will make a better job overall when done. When cutting board, ensure that the joint will occur in the middle of the step or rafter so next piece isn’t floating. Insulation will decrease noise from ceiling and adjacent rooms. Make sure you stagger joints so that you don’t have straight seams when don’t.
We had a 3' island with 3" overhang at both ends at a 45 degree angle. Had a 9" overhang on the back for 3 bar stools. Left room for access at both ends into kitchen. Counter top overhung about 9" on back side for 3 bar stools. Loved that kitchen....James
I think we’re going to go with the island.
martin make a tee out of 2 2x4s to help hold sheet rock up to ceilings
Yes. It's called a dead man brace. That stuff can get heavy. Just brace there till you get enough screws in then take it down.
Yep, that's how we did ours.
That house is pretty big. It would be reasonable to buy a drywall support device, at least if there's something used and fairly close by on eBay or Craigslist, for example.
If you're going to install a standard Range, you'll need a bigger electrical box, or better yet just surface mount a range outlet down low on the wall or floor behind the range.
I've never seen anyone wet the drywall tape before installing, that really slows the process...just install it dry and PULL the mud down TIGHT on each of the three coats (Tape, Block and Skim). Use a 5-6" knife to tape and then a 8-10" to block and skim. Feather it out and don't leave any lumps if you can help it and the sanding person will thank you later...less sanding = less dust...
I wouldn't install to much ceiling as any electric running through those joist above the ceiling will need to be stapled/supported AND inspected.
You will also need counter top outlets, I rough the boxes in at 47" above the floor to the top of the box. Per code you need to never be more than 2' away from an outlet when measuring along the counter top at the back splash. These outlets need to be 20 amp (#12 wire) and you are required to have a min of 2 20 amp circuits that just serve the kitchen.
Hope this helps...
I have worked with people who use wet paper tape. They usualy put the whole roll of tape in a bucket of water and take it out as needed. But they are doing a whole building. It would be very easy to put in just what you expect to use for that session. The advantage is that you can get a very smooth first embedding. Both ways work, try them then do it the way you prefer. Wet tape will dry out if you don't use it all if you put it where air circulates.
Take your time. The smoother the first coat the smoother the finish coat.
And apply it almost as thin as you can, sanding sucks.
Definitely a sheet rock lifter. And start at the bottom. Tape and mud fixes everything 😉
I think putting up drywall was my toughest challenge. You learn and get better as you go along. Good work Martin. 😀
Martin I jumped in on some other suggestions on videos to watch in comments below , hope you will be able to watch that channel, Doug is a great teacher on Dry Wall @ Diyfferent. What I wanted to say to you here is dry wall isn't difficult .... unless you haven't done it before, then it is awkward and frustrating and difficult .... and messy. The first few times I did it I was ready to give up but I finally ask a neighbor next door if he could take a few minutes and just show me how to do it (this is before the internet) I knew the neighbors out where I lived and he had no problem showing me, a few months earlier he came over to show me how to lay brick. Sometimes it just helps to have someone show you how to do it and explain the why and how. If you have a friend at church that knows how ask him if he can give you an hour to show you how to do it. So much better to have a hands on teacher/experience if possible. Good luck. Just remember my motto ..... it is just a house, you aren't doing heart surgery, no one is going to die. (I have been a Registered Nurse for ever and my scariest moment in life was when I had to hold a heart in the operating room ..... after that , life is a breeze) Blessings to all
When putting up ceiling panels (or even wall panels) a panel lifter is worth hiring makes lifting and placing plasterboard/sheetroc much easier.
Also using a special sheetroc/plasterboard/drywall electric screwdriver or adapter makes sure that you never drive the screws too deep. Invested in one for the first house we renovated, well worth the 120€
Try the self adhesive mesh drywall tape. More expensive, but, in my opinion, much easier to use. Also spend a little more time with the drywall knife. The smoother you get it with the knife, the less sanding and recoating.
2 amateur tips:
Get a rotozip from Harbor freight, they are like $20, will save tons of timeswith openings.
Sheetrock is cheap, hang it in such a way to minimize joints and don't worry about using small leftover sheets. There will be waste, but I promise you that you will be glad the taping stage is easier.
Looking good, wait until you start sanding, that's when the fun starts. Great video.
Awsome job guys, I'm not a sheet rock guy but maybe a suggestion on cutting holes for your electrical. Since you currently have access to the back side of the wall, maybe set the sheet rock then have someone step to the other side and trace it out ?
But anyway I only commented that because you asked about tips.... But I've never hung sheetrock so I really don't have any idea 😃 👍
I think you need blocking in that inside corner so that your corner joint is supported all the way across. When you try to tape that, it will flex when you push on it between the joists.
I use a 10" blade. It's easier and allows you to feather it out better. If you are going to have a gap, make the gap be on the floor since it will be covered with baseboard and it won't matter.
Put screws nearer edge to be covered by tape. Two screws in center stud only. Tape and corner bead covers plenty. Doing a great job, also with family helping is great. On cuts score front side and a foot notch on Bach then snap it will break clean. Put a couple screws in side rock and use saw to cut a cross inside box then trim outside.
Wow really good for first time taping.
Hahaha the lip thing, that was me that said it🤣 I realised I was doing it again the otherday and thought about Martin doin it haha
Too funny!
:)
You have a beautiful Boston Terrier I breed them from time to time. I live in Florida a long way from you. I have had people come as far away as Oklahoma just to buy my puppies. Don't get me wrong I have no puppies available at this time so I don't want you to think I am trying to sell you a puppy. I just like watching your show and I love your dog. Glad to see your house coming along so well.
We love our Tux! He is such a fun dog! :)
I think you’re smashing it, you’ll get a lot better at Sheetrock as u go but not many people can even do what you done
Thanks for the encouraging words.
Make your self up a soldier, a length of 3by2 with a T on the top measure it tight to the underside of the studs when you lift the sheet get the T under the sheet and kick it up thought under it, have a go it supports it for you easy once you get the hang of it good luck. ..D. S.
Wow I read the comments, a lot of ways to get the job done. Make sure you know what local building inspectors want. Generally they are looking for the same thing but don't always use exactly the same standards. I couldn't quite see, you may already be using the bit I suggested but the screws may not be bugle head dry wall screws. The shape of the head is very important to the strength of the dry wall. Make sure you are using all purpose or embedment joint compound for taping. They have glue for the tape. Topping joint compound has no glue, it's softer and easier to finnish but not realy nessary. Have a good day.
Green board is for walls nearest a water source and all walls in a bathroom
Люблю смотреть такие видео есть чему по учиться и наслаждаясь прекрасной природой , спасибо.
Thin out your mud, you put the tape on backwards, the tape folds... the crease goes on facing the drywall... makes it easier for doing the angles
Great video. Take your time lining up your sheet rock before installing it completely so you can line it up better.
The sheets go up with the tapered sides butting each other so the plaster fills that dip and it will be smooth
Suzanne Leblanc you are correct. Also it has been suggested to put the filler in the middle so one doesn’t have to stoop to save you back, However that defeats the purpose of the tapered edge... almost always put the cut at the very top or the very bottom. (Usually at the bottom). Also a kitchen wall is usually covered with base cabinets and once they are installed that portion of the wall will never be seen again, therefore a tape job and a couple skim coats is sufficient.
A 6 inch knife is good to start with, butter your joints a littel more and top coat the paper right away. Clean the extra off , less sanding. Second coat use a 10 inch knife. If you clean the edges with your knife before it dry, you will sand less. I had a Pro do some work and he didnt sand any thing till he was done. Third coat or top coat is with a 12 inch knife. Butter the area and feather it on each side. Take your time. Be neat and clean with each sheet. You got all winter.
1st time I had ever did rock was a summer job...commercially.
I learned how to mud from asking questions from pro's, and watching them.
I can, but would rather have help, hang the lid by myself...walls are easy to do by yourself.
And I've never put green board on the ceiling..usually not a wet area in the ceiling..only in the shower area and not needed there
I can't say you wrong or right, because I do not know anything about sheetrock hanging but putting the tape,and mortar for the space I can dobut Martin you a smart guy ,and you do great. work
Enjoy watching your video
Next time Sir, put your sheet rock where it's supposed to go and give it a little press on the place of the plug case and you will have it marked exactly where it should be instead of you measuring all the time and missing a gap. By the way where is, the trimmer you used for the windows before? That is the tool for making all these electricity holes. I salute you you for participating all of you and enjoying it. That's awesome! Mary X-Mas to you all.
A friend of mine had a guy drywall his whole house.. He used 1/2 inch in the garage ceiling and it didnt pass inspection. All of that drywall had to be torn down and 5/8th put in. Check codes about sheetrock above stoves and ceilings.. Also.. Is there insulation in the crawl space under the floor.. That could be a huge source of cold air
We haven't seen him insulate the crawl space yet, but presumably it's on his things-to-do list.
he should not have torn it down. longer screws and double up on the sheets. fire walls between apartments are satisfied with 4 layers of sheet rock.
Just a tip keep your screws on the edge 1/2 inch to 1 inch from the edge, in Aus there is different sheet rock (plasterboard) for ceilings, it has fibers through it for strength
And yes I've dabbled in this craft...and art...and yes its both....not an easy learn...and I've done tons of renos
I was going to leave some tips, but it looks like all the good ones have been covered.... I do like to use a wider knife (spatula) like 10" or 12" also don't try to use all the small pieces, you want as few seams as possible. If you end up with some really big gaps, you might try a product like "Durabond 90", it does't shrink as much, you can put it on thicker, and its ready to sand sooner (its a type of joint compound, most of the brands have something like it, get the easy sand type). There really are a lot of good tips on here so be sure to read them...lol Good Luck :D
Thanks. I am.
I'm sorry...
I know this is your first time at this..but you made my evening.
Wish I would come and give you a hand.
Oh I'm in Spokane.
Great video!
Put insulation in ceiling - makes sound insulation. And leave small gaps between sheetrock cut sides so you can fill them when you fill them with filling. An you need to cut those cut egdes of sheetrock on angle, so that filling goes in better and has more surface
start from the bottom and work your way up. also start in a corner first.
Hello new to your channel Great stuff Your frig isn't to close to your stove Most stoves are next to them in house's so your good Your doing a great job
The seam you pointed out are tapered edges, for tape and mud finish. Try to make them match up , try keep cut edges against floors and corners, and try keeping seams needing mud as low as possible. You do not need to fill the gaps, that is to much mud to try to dry. Layer of mud, tape, layer of mud, allow or set, then break out your 12" knife finish across the two, when you hang the sheets on the walls, measure the distance down set a board on the wall with a couple of screws you won't need to hold it up in the air while setting the screws. Sheet rock is never perfect, that is what tape, mud, and texture, is made to fix...!
Cool. Thanks for the tips!
have you looked at board and batten on the ceiling with 12/13 plywood- then you put up pre oiled or painted before you put it up - look nice in your home with the style you are using and much easier than putting mud on a ceiling that high - put gib on the walls and the lower downstairs ground floor ceiling only and board and batten in the vaulted ceiling of the family room
Great video guys !!! IMO, I reckon extend that hallway wall in order to cover the fridge .. but hey, that could very well just be my OCD at not wanting to see the often messy side of a fridge . 🤣
Do you mean using the side of the fridge as a magnet wall? It can get messy.
Great job! You get a lot of comment and tip some of them are very helpful:)
A cabin/house in the forest with plaster boards?
Have you never thought to use wood instead? There is many ways to do that. And not so tricky:)
Just a thought from a Swedish retaiered man in the woods :)
That would be cool too.
I would use the self adhesive mesh tape to help with the gaps
Im Fans From Indonesian, Nice Content I love it
Trial and error is the best way too learn! It pretty good for no prior experience👍🏻
Wouldn’t say it’s the “best” way unless it’s someone else’s error that you learn by! ... learning from your own error is a close second! Jk😁. But seriously they are doing great for having never done much of what they are doing.
..learning is good and results get better as you go along..looks good to me...nice vid...
Thanks. By the time we get good we will be done. Hahaha
@@MartinJohnsonOffGridLiving ..lol..
buy a rotozip and drywall lift....re sell when done....looks good...it will mud up nicely sir
Thin layer of mud then tape all seams first then another layer of mud over the tape sweeping your mud trowel down then side to side for even spreading You will find later after it dries it willbe easier to sand smooth
Nice job fellas.
a flat crow bar under the edge of sheet rock and a 2x4 block for a fulcrum will tighten your joints
You should do the wiring first, that you can put metal wiring saftey plates on the studs where the wires are run. That would keep sheetrock screws and Shelfves from cutting the wires, which could cause fires!
I have seen better, considering it’s your first time drywalling it looks beautiful! You never know if you can do something until you try. By the time you get to the second wall you will be a pro!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Screws 8'' apart on the edges, 12'' in 'the field'. Bottom sheet to the floor held off the floor by a couple of paint sticks. Filler piece in the center. Already mentioned about the 5/8'' with 24'' centers. House I'm doing now..were putting 5/8 on all the exterior walls and 1/2'' on the interior---all 16'' centers.
Martin, mark your studs on the floor with some spray paint. Otherwise they tend to become invisible! Mk
Great tip!
I always miss when trying to measure for electrical boxes :)
When hanging sheet rock, always cover the ceiling area first. The wall sheets support the edges of the ceiling sheets. Over time the edges of the ceiling sheets will tend to sag in the areas between the ceiling joists.
Thanks for the tip. How big can the gaps be?
Great job guy's!👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🐸🐸🐸🐸🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄💖💖💯💯
when doing ceiling, 1/2" from the bare ceiling, drive a couple nails 1/2 way in ...in the space vetween the bails and the joist ...slip your sheetrock into that space and push up on the other end to raise it. Wall sections are done vertically from the floor up.
What if you have 9’ walls?
@@MartinJohnsonOffGridLiving then use a full piece and a litttle ...alternate the liyyle piece top and bottom ... by doing them alternately, the iape seam will blend better.
Could be wrong but, I was always told to start drywall from the floor up and then u can make it level/straight then work your way up then might solve that gap issue. Just my 2 cents. (Also having a bit of a gap on the bottom is okay because of the trim/carpet if said (room had carpet) I know your doing the kitchen but just saying
If your first sheet is put up level and plumb, the next sheet will be nearly gap free. A little extra time spent on the first sheet will make your job easier and better looking when you finish it.
I always fit the sheet long side on the side sort on the top. That way the weight is take by the floor.
5/8 should be used on the ceiling when nailing floor joists 24”o.c. Also 5/8 on all walls for fire rating see you are so far from the fire Dept.
YUP! Anything over 24" center anchoring will remain flat but 1/2" will so the wave for you. Don't know your plans but the majority of failed joints I've had to replace are from mesh tape. Paper when moistened first will anchor far better.
Yes
Great job!
you can also use 10' drywall ...it is special order, but makes install easier.
Love the down to earth approach you have, have u thought about insulating downstairs ceilings ? as u tend to loose all there heat through the ceiling to upstairs n they are cold
Oh that’s a good idea. I’ll put some thought into it.
Mud fixes almost everything...
Since you have access to the back side of your interior walls , you can mark your electrical boxes from the back side with the drywall tight in place. and you will still need to put electrical boxes for your lighting, and be able to run the wire, so you may want to plan it out and run it before covering them with drywall...
also you can use a damp sponge instead of sandpaper which really cuts down on the dust
dude you need to thank God every night for Jewls, she is amazing.
Make sure you insulate the wall between the fridge and the bedroom because it will resonate in the wall and could be fairly disruptive during the night for whom ever stays in that room.
Thanks for the tip.
all you have to do with the gaps in mix up some gyp-rock filler and smooth it over
The mud will make it paintable yes it will cover you did good for the first time
You can make a supporting "T" 8' out of 4x 2 to hold ceiling panels up
Good idea thank you
They make fiberglass sticky seam tape that is MUCH easier. A lot of times I start my first sheet ~ 1/4" from the floor OR run the drywall vertically which only gives 1 seam every 4'
If you make any boo boos on the sheetrock it's called Mud no big deal just mudded and great job
Start from the floor. Keep your cuts and infill at the top.. and use tape and then fill...
With all the drywall you’ve got to hang, a drywall banjo would be a great investment as well as a drywall router for the electric boxes and cutouts. Also, green board only has to go half way up behind sinks.
I’ll have to look into the banjo. I don’t know what that is.
Banjo needs skill, cost prohibitive unless martain is going into drywall contracting
Mike O'Connell you are absolutely right
You could have marked your electrical boxes from the other side of the wall. Lipstick on the edge of the boxes works too.
Rent a lift it will make things ezer for all of you.
Anyway to have a experienced drywaller spent a day with you to show you some tricks of the trade.
Remember the final product depends on the smoothness of joints etc.once you paint all the sins will show.
You’ll get there with practices do the closets first to get a fell of taping etc.
good luck.
Sounds good. We are just not doing some of the dry wall now. But when we set to the vaulted ceiling I’ll look into it.
Hi Martin it’s me again karim from Algeria 🇩🇿👍🏻checking on your progress god bless and merry Christmas 🎄 for you and your family 👍🏻🤠
Thanks. Glad you are here. How is it in Algeria?