So glad I found this channel. Been a fan of restoration channels for awhile but not really the items they were restoring. This is the best of both worlds! Thanks brad, keep it up, see you at 100k
I have a set of the old Nike cavity backs. Idk what year they are, but those clubs were amazing. I’ve retired my set and just keep them for nostalgia, but man we’re they great when I was getting back into golf.
For sure. Check out the latest videos. I show each wheel and what compound on each. Sisal = black Stitched denim = brown Stitched denim = white Loose cotton = green I posted a chart of what each color is for.
Hey Brad, I have been experimenting with the taping process. Instead of blue painters tape and aluminium, I have been using Gorilla tape. It's thicker and sticks like crazy. Plus, I can reuse it for many more times. I still use the blue tape around other areas that might get accidentally hit with the media blast. Saves me time and MONEY. More for Cervesas. LOL IMO. Try it, if it's a hassle let me know.
This was the easiest club I've done. You can just polish them and they'll look mint. Maybe some light sanding, but nothing like the forged clubs I work on.
@@jamesmccarthy7879 That would work to give that contrast in texture. I'd go with a 120 or 200 to see how it looks. Take a look at my Titleist driver video where I sand the face. You'll see the brushed look it leaves.
@@BradMeehan It's black, or at the very least the last owner decided it should be. There's black paint where there shouldn't be any... Might go with blonde, we'll see when it's stripped!
@@AdamTheGuitarHero I've restored a set of black before. You'll notice that Ping gets away with imperfections in the wood by using plastic filler under the paint in some areas which was a deal breaker for going blond. I had to repaint the club since it would take the stain. Few things to mention: be sure to mask off the red face with a lot of tape. The paint stripper will melt it. Then, I put a piece of clear packing tape over the whole face to draw an outline of the area to mask when it came time to paint then transfered that shape into a layer of proper masking tape.
@@BradMeehan lucky for me after a bit of stripping and sanding there doesn't appear to be any filler. Still some black paint trapped in the grain, so definitely didn't start life as a blonde. The wood around the insert is chipped, so I may need to knock down the insert flush with the wood and recut the grooves. This is almost as detail oriented as any of the furniture projects I've taken on 🤔
I could watch these videos all day. Tried to track down this info from your other videos, but what would you recommend for an air compressor? Any basic specs that need to be met? Thanks!
Thanks Alex. My compressor is tiny. It's enough to drive the little handheld media Blaster, However, if I were purchasing a NEW compressor, I would get the biggest one you can afford. There are so many applications I can't do because my compressor doesn't have the volume to drive paint guns, sprayers, air tools, blasting cabinet, etc without constantly running to try and keep up.
I really love your channel and the associated content! I am getting ready to try refinishing a set of clubs today. I see a guide of some kind in some of your videos. Is it a club reference guide that has historical information?
Brad, GREAT videos. Great presentation and explanation of each of the steps. However, I don't have a media blaster so I'm wondering if it is possible to use sand paper or a palm sander? If so, which grit would you recommend? Thank you again for your content.
You could use sand paper. My recommendation is to use the least aggressive grit you can to achieve the look you're going for, then adjust from there if it's not cutting. It's more of an appearance thing than a texture-for-grip thing, so even a scuff pad would work if you just want that contrast between shiny and matte finish.
I don't believe they are as they have not corroded at all and I've done nothing to protect them. I tried to look up specs but couldn't find what the material was. The blades, however would need some sort of protection like nickel or even taking them to a chrome shop. My channel tries to do things on the cheap while still achieving great results, so chrome is out for me because of the expense. Let me know if you have any questions along the way. If I can do this, anyone can.
Love the work you do! Before sandblasting the club face, do you debur and polish that surface as well, or just clean then mediablast them after you've done the rest of the club?
I do polish it first. I want it all uniform before I change the texture of a surface. Otherwise I'd stare at the imperfections underneath and want to redo it. Part of my self-diagnosed touch of OCD, probably.
@@BradMeehan ha, same! Do you re-groove/sharpen the grooves before or after polishing? A couple of my irons have a bit of the color bleeding through from where I’m assuming the nickel plating is worn where I strike the ball…assuming I’ll need to re-nickel plate that to get rid of that part?
@@mikem7443 I do it before plating. I've done it after but I've chipped the plating with the sharpener. You can get away with a little brush plating to protect the face if you don't want to go all-in.
I bought a set of callaway X forged irons that had a lot Of bag chatter and some dings and minor gashes. I’ve managed to smooth everything out for the most part but the clubs have turned raw. I had to take the badges off when I bought them they were barely holding on. What is your recommendation to get them back to the original finish?
You'd have to plate them with the nickel to get the finish back. I have a tutorial video on nickel plating. I'm was a C student and even I can do it. Hit me up with questions
i like how we are oceans apart but i ue exact same processes . i use alu tape and blue ( yellow frog tape is better) , mask off the same way etc . im on my way to perfecting each big brands original face finish using different media, sometimes 3 on one face
Thanks, Billy. I will for sure. In the meantime, check out some of my earlier videos like the Wilson D7, or the TaylorMade M2 video where I explain the polishing process and tools a bit.
The sisal wheel will get out a lot of scratches but you will have to sand deeper scratches first with paper. Deburring just helps with the first pass but it introduces scratches of its own that you have to sand out before polishing. You can skip deburring and just sand by hand.
It's a cheap bench grinder and I took the wheels off (easy) and added inexpensive arbor extenders on. There's a link in the description. I makes it super easy to switch polishing wheels and I'm super lazy. You can find bench grinders at estate sales for 10 dollars. Mine is a 6 inch harbor arbor freight brand that I got with a coupon.
What grit sandpaper did you use after the deburring and did you sand or polish the club face to get out any scratches before using the media blaster on them?
400, then maybe 600 grit. It really depends on how deep they are. I generally start with a higher grit to see if that takes it out first then move lower grit if not. It saves time on sanding by not going too aggressive too early. I criss cross 90 degrees in straight lines when I switch grits. The finer you sand the less time you spend on the sisal wheel. And I do sand the club face to get it the most even looking after blasting. It's a borderline ocd thing I do.
@@BradMeehan thanks for the tips! I will definitely be trying out the polishing on my old set of clubs, they have a few scratches so will need a sand before. I think the media blasting might be a bit out of my skill level and budget. Is it OK to give them a light sanding without media blasting them or is it better to just clean them a bit and leave them as is?
@@RandomNessDD I'd go backwards. Start light and if you can't get it out, then sand. No use introducing new scratches that weren't there before with sand paper since you'll just have to do more work to get them out. Lazy man's approach.
Only on clubs that are plated. These cast clubs are not. I believe there is nickel in the alloy, but not plated with it. That's why I didn't have to replate these. On my other videos I do strip and replate.
@@BradMeehan Thanks! One more question if you don’t mind: I just bought a set of used Mizuno MP-59’s and plan on refurbishing them. However, the back of the irons have that aluminum powder coat finish that is on most other clubs faces. How would you go about refurbishing them?
@@joshuarodriguez2776 are you sure it's powder or is it textured and plated? Take a look at my Hogan Edge video and look at the club face. I sand blasted it and plated over it for that look. I've never seen that model in person so it's hard to tell from the pictures.
It's personal preference. The blasting has some benefit in terms of texture on the face, but I feel it's more aesthetics. The contrast just looks great next to a shiny, polished surface. Also, if the face was previously blasted, your polishing may have 'smoothed-out' a portion of it, so this just gets it back to a straight line with clear definition.
@@BradMeehan thanks man! I'm going to try and bring these back to life with a dremel. Would you recommend getting abrasive cutting wheels (120-400) or getting the polishing compound kit? Ive got sandpaper and some scotch pads bright on hand
@@shawnnoblin1668 I'd get the polishing compound kit. Those grits on the abrasive wheel are too aggressive. The most aggressive grit I sand with is 400. It's less work than using something with a heavy grit and having to get out those scratches too. I start light then get more aggressive if I have to. I'm lazy as hell, and equally as OCD so I want to do less work for the same great results.
@@BradMeehan that's some lovely finish, but only with polishing you'll be protected from rust ? I just sanded the sole of my miura 4 iron and detected that the nickel bath went away, so I don't think that only polishing over this will protect the club from rust, or maybe im wrong...would you clarify? thanks
@@miguellopezquincoces4851 I'm this video, I polished a club that was not previously plated so corrosion and oxidation wouldn't be an issue. Your club, however sounds like they're plated so you'll need to either plate them using my home nickel plating tutorial or wipe them.often with corrosion prevention spray like CRC or WD40.
There are additional steps to do the plating for those irons. Check out my Mizuno tutorial, then my MacGregor and Wilson videos for reference. Also, feel free to hit me up with any questions.
It's crazy how nike spent all that r&d money and made such sweet clubs then just gave up. I love my sumo sq 3 and 5 wood and my sumo driver is very forgiving
No sir. This is a very easy club to restore because you only have to polish it. I have a video on how to make a polisher from a cheap bench grinder. Happy to answer any questions along the way.
You can. The only differences is that the Ping have a matte finish, so you'd have to hit them with the blasting gun (with the glass beads) after to dull-out the shine (unless you want them shiny and not matte).
I always start with the finest that will remove a scratch first before going more aggressive. 400 to 600 works, but takes more time. But, you'll end up doing less work on your polishing because you won't have to take out the deep scratches introduced by a heavier grit.
@@BradMeehan and last question from me, in another video you used white vinegar and salt to soak the head to remove rust - what proportion of salt to vinegar should I use? Cheers!
@@simonhuttley8850 I used a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and water. You can make it more dilute or use a different acid (like vinegar) but it will take longer. You shouldn't need it on a stainless club like the Nike in this video. Also, using salt will accelerate rust so avoid that in the mix.
Feel like I'm watching woody be restored in toy story
This is literally the best comment I've ever received.
Pinned to the top!
So if I sand vertical and then horizontal I should get a better shine than just doing it one way ?
@LITTY LEGEND yes. Use straight criss-cross pattern and you'll organize the little scratches into tiny square mirrors.
@@BradMeehan would that be in all grits or just the fine grits ?
So glad I found this channel. Been a fan of restoration channels for awhile but not really the items they were restoring. This is the best of both worlds! Thanks brad, keep it up, see you at 100k
Thanks, Theo. Me too! I can only watch so many rusty bench vices before I get bored. Spread the word!
Nothing was better than seeing those puppies on the shelf back in the day.
I have a set of the old Nike cavity backs. Idk what year they are, but those clubs were amazing. I’ve retired my set and just keep them for nostalgia, but man we’re they great when I was getting back into golf.
unbelievable work it was great to see your process from start to finish.
Thank you!
Another great video! Just picked up a grinder and have polishing wheels on the way. Thanks for the inspiration.
You're welcome. Let me know how they turn out!
Can you pair what wax you use for each wheel ? I'm gunna do this to my clubs and don't want to screw up the process
For sure. Check out the latest videos. I show each wheel and what compound on each.
Sisal = black
Stitched denim = brown
Stitched denim = white
Loose cotton = green
I posted a chart of what each color is for.
👏👏👏. Love it. I’ve just bought mizuno mp67 4-PW to do exactly this over the summer. Hopefully I will get a similar finish to your beautiful clubs
Woah, beautiful restoration workmanship with so much care and attention to detail. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
i got these clubs again i just got them on ebay i had them in 2006 i love them
They're great clubs!
I can watch these all day
Beautiful!
The finishing touch should’ve been you hitting a golf ball with it!
This is cathartic
I would have been done at 5:10 🤣Beautiful restoration!!
Hey Brad, I have been experimenting with the taping process. Instead of blue painters tape and aluminium, I have been using Gorilla tape. It's thicker and sticks like crazy. Plus, I can reuse it for many more times. I still use the blue tape around other areas that might get accidentally hit with the media blast. Saves me time and MONEY. More for Cervesas. LOL IMO. Try it, if it's a hassle let me know.
I have some I will try. The aluminum tape gives me peace of mind knowing I have that thick barrier against the work I did.
Very nice job . Looks like a new club . Keep the videos coming .
Thanks, Manuel!
Love this Brad. Really interested in giving this a go. Retirement project!
Thank you. I'm jealous of the retirement status!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Just picked up a set of these today… really tempted to refurbish them
This was the easiest club I've done. You can just polish them and they'll look mint. Maybe some light sanding, but nothing like the forged clubs I work on.
great job Brad, that media blasting makes all the difference to the finish
It really does. The contrast of the two textures is satisfying when you peel the tape.
@@jamesmccarthy7879 That would work to give that contrast in texture. I'd go with a 120 or 200 to see how it looks. Take a look at my Titleist driver video where I sand the face. You'll see the brushed look it leaves.
Nice… A whole set though? That’s a lot of work
Fantastic work! Just what I needed this morning to get me to go work on the Ping Eye2 3w I picked up.
I have a few Woods restoration videos on the channel. Are you doing the blond or the black Eye 2?
@@BradMeehan It's black, or at the very least the last owner decided it should be. There's black paint where there shouldn't be any... Might go with blonde, we'll see when it's stripped!
@@AdamTheGuitarHero I've restored a set of black before. You'll notice that Ping gets away with imperfections in the wood by using plastic filler under the paint in some areas which was a deal breaker for going blond. I had to repaint the club since it would take the stain.
Few things to mention: be sure to mask off the red face with a lot of tape. The paint stripper will melt it. Then, I put a piece of clear packing tape over the whole face to draw an outline of the area to mask when it came time to paint then transfered that shape into a layer of proper masking tape.
@@BradMeehan lucky for me after a bit of stripping and sanding there doesn't appear to be any filler. Still some black paint trapped in the grain, so definitely didn't start life as a blonde. The wood around the insert is chipped, so I may need to knock down the insert flush with the wood and recut the grooves. This is almost as detail oriented as any of the furniture projects I've taken on 🤔
@@AdamTheGuitarHero let me know how it turns out! brad @ bradmeehan.com
I could watch these videos all day. Tried to track down this info from your other videos, but what would you recommend for an air compressor? Any basic specs that need to be met?
Thanks!
Thanks Alex. My compressor is tiny. It's enough to drive the little handheld media Blaster, However, if I were purchasing a NEW compressor, I would get the biggest one you can afford. There are so many applications I can't do because my compressor doesn't have the volume to drive paint guns, sprayers, air tools, blasting cabinet, etc without constantly running to try and keep up.
I added links to the media gun, blasting media, tape, etc in the description.
I will watch all the content on here that I can 😂
Very nice restoration.👍
Thank you very much!
Excelente trabajo!!!!
amazing work!!
Simply brilliant and beautiful
Is this difficult to do?
I live in England
This is a brilliant site
Thank you. It's surprisingly easy. Most of the time is spent just standing there while the tools do the work.
Brad, great work. What type of fine deburring wheel do you commonly use?
Thank you
Chris
I really love your channel and the associated content! I am getting ready to try refinishing a set of clubs today. I see a guide of some kind in some of your videos. Is it a club reference guide that has historical information?
Brad, GREAT videos. Great presentation and explanation of each of the steps. However, I don't have a media blaster so I'm wondering if it is possible to use sand paper or a palm sander? If so, which grit would you recommend?
Thank you again for your content.
You could use sand paper. My recommendation is to use the least aggressive grit you can to achieve the look you're going for, then adjust from there if it's not cutting. It's more of an appearance thing than a texture-for-grip thing, so even a scuff pad would work if you just want that contrast between shiny and matte finish.
Are these slingshots carbon steel? I have a set of Nike Blades I will be restoring but don't have the setup for nickel plating yet.
I don't believe they are as they have not corroded at all and I've done nothing to protect them. I tried to look up specs but couldn't find what the material was. The blades, however would need some sort of protection like nickel or even taking them to a chrome shop. My channel tries to do things on the cheap while still achieving great results, so chrome is out for me because of the expense. Let me know if you have any questions along the way. If I can do this, anyone can.
Love the work you do!
Before sandblasting the club face, do you debur and polish that surface as well, or just clean then mediablast them after you've done the rest of the club?
I do polish it first. I want it all uniform before I change the texture of a surface. Otherwise I'd stare at the imperfections underneath and want to redo it. Part of my self-diagnosed touch of OCD, probably.
@@BradMeehan ha, same!
Do you re-groove/sharpen the grooves before or after polishing?
A couple of my irons have a bit of the color bleeding through from where I’m assuming the nickel plating is worn where I strike the ball…assuming I’ll need to re-nickel plate that to get rid of that part?
@@mikem7443 I do it before plating. I've done it after but I've chipped the plating with the sharpener. You can get away with a little brush plating to protect the face if you don't want to go all-in.
Bravo my friend!! Bravo!
Thank you, Austin
In the process of doing this to my SQ Machspeeds.
They'll turn out like new. 👍
How much are you charging to restore a set of these PW-3?
Very cool😊
Masterful!
Thanks, Jeffrey
Keep them coming ! I’m trying to get into this hobby.
Thank you. I hope you try it. It's pretty easy stuff.
Drop me a note if you have any questions.
@@BradMeehan will do! Do you have an email ?
@@calebross3790 Brad@BradMeehan.com
Caleb - I added links to the equipment in the description. I try to go with the more economical route when possible.
I bought a set of callaway X forged irons that had a lot
Of bag chatter and some dings and minor gashes. I’ve managed to smooth everything out for the most part but the clubs have turned raw. I had to take the badges off when I bought them they were barely holding on. What is your recommendation to get them back to the original finish?
You'd have to plate them with the nickel to get the finish back. I have a tutorial video on nickel plating. I'm was a C student and even I can do it. Hit me up with questions
i like how we are oceans apart but i ue exact same processes . i use alu tape and blue ( yellow frog tape is better) , mask off the same way etc . im on my way to perfecting each big brands original face finish using different media, sometimes 3 on one face
Very cool. Do you have any photos to share?
@@BradMeehan can that be done via youtube ?
Could you do a video of all the tools you use. I’m getting into this and these videos by far have been a great help!
Thanks, Billy. I will for sure. In the meantime, check out some of my earlier videos like the Wilson D7, or the TaylorMade M2 video where I explain the polishing process and tools a bit.
@@BradMeehan awesome, setting up my workspace now. Found an awesome set of hogans that look pretty old.
When is it necessary to use the deburring wheel, and when can you start with the polishing wheels?
The sisal wheel will get out a lot of scratches but you will have to sand deeper scratches first with paper. Deburring just helps with the first pass but it introduces scratches of its own that you have to sand out before polishing. You can skip deburring and just sand by hand.
Hi Brad, what solution do you use when wiping away the paint? Love the videos
It's just isopropyl alcohol
Great work man. What machine is operating the sisal wheel? Would love to start restoring my golf clubs
It's a cheap bench grinder and I took the wheels off (easy) and added inexpensive arbor extenders on. There's a link in the description. I makes it super easy to switch polishing wheels and I'm super lazy. You can find bench grinders at estate sales for 10 dollars. Mine is a 6 inch harbor arbor freight brand that I got with a coupon.
Nice vids, what happen if you stop after polishing? What are those steps with the electro machine?
On clubs that aren't chrome plated, you won't have to do any of that. You can just get away with polishing to a mirror finish.
Do you find it easy to get wide deburring wheels? I'm working with a 12mm wheel, I'd love something maybe an inch wide,but having bother finding!
I had to dig for it. Here is the big one I bought. I think I even had to check a box that affirmed I was a "professional" to use it.
amzn.to/3TrCLPy
@@BradMeehan cheers Brad!
That's coming up as an attachment for a drill?
@@fastandyc i clicked it and got this: "Scotch-Brite - MU-WL Multi-Finishing Wheel, Medium Grit (Pack of 1)"
Where are you located?
@@BradMeehan yeah but it's one for a drill it's showing
Is there a way you can do the face of the club by using the grinding wheel?
You'd just have to be careful not to go too low or you'll dull the grooves.
What grit sandpaper did you use after the deburring and did you sand or polish the club face to get out any scratches before using the media blaster on them?
400, then maybe 600 grit. It really depends on how deep they are.
I generally start with a higher grit to see if that takes it out first then move lower grit if not. It saves time on sanding by not going too aggressive too early. I criss cross 90 degrees in straight lines when I switch grits. The finer you sand the less time you spend on the sisal wheel.
And I do sand the club face to get it the most even looking after blasting. It's a borderline ocd thing I do.
@@BradMeehan thanks for the tips! I will definitely be trying out the polishing on my old set of clubs, they have a few scratches so will need a sand before.
I think the media blasting might be a bit out of my skill level and budget. Is it OK to give them a light sanding without media blasting them or is it better to just clean them a bit and leave them as is?
@@RandomNessDD I'd go backwards. Start light and if you can't get it out, then sand. No use introducing new scratches that weren't there before with sand paper since you'll just have to do more work to get them out. Lazy man's approach.
Question: do you not have to first strip the clubs of nickel/copper coatings?
Only on clubs that are plated. These cast clubs are not. I believe there is nickel in the alloy, but not plated with it. That's why I didn't have to replate these. On my other videos I do strip and replate.
@@BradMeehan Thanks! One more question if you don’t mind: I just bought a set of used Mizuno MP-59’s and plan on refurbishing them. However, the back of the irons have that aluminum powder coat finish that is on most other clubs faces. How would you go about refurbishing them?
@@joshuarodriguez2776 are you sure it's powder or is it textured and plated? Take a look at my Hogan Edge video and look at the club face. I sand blasted it and plated over it for that look. I've never seen that model in person so it's hard to tell from the pictures.
@@BradMeehan Can I just send you a club and you can use it to make a video? Hahah
@@BradMeehan But you are correct, it is the same texture as the club on your Hogan video.
How do you decide whether or not to media blast the face? I have a set of Adams Golf Tight Lies I am working on.
It's personal preference. The blasting has some benefit in terms of texture on the face, but I feel it's more aesthetics. The contrast just looks great next to a shiny, polished surface. Also, if the face was previously blasted, your polishing may have 'smoothed-out' a portion of it, so this just gets it back to a straight line with clear definition.
@@BradMeehan thanks man! I'm going to try and bring these back to life with a dremel. Would you recommend getting abrasive cutting wheels (120-400) or getting the polishing compound kit? Ive got sandpaper and some scotch pads bright on hand
@@shawnnoblin1668 I'd get the polishing compound kit. Those grits on the abrasive wheel are too aggressive. The most aggressive grit I sand with is 400. It's less work than using something with a heavy grit and having to get out those scratches too. I start light then get more aggressive if I have to. I'm lazy as hell, and equally as OCD so I want to do less work for the same great results.
Brad, love the videos!
Question …if you media blast the faces, will they rust after time? Is that why you nickel plate sometimes?
Yes, they will rust if you go down to bare steel. This is why I nickel plate them for corrosion prevention as well as just aesthtics.
@@BradMeehan does the debuting wheel and light sanding remove the chrome?
@@txhornsfan33322 This particular club isn't chrome, but yes, you would eventually go through the chrome layer.
What does media blaster do? What is its function?
It's just for looks. I'm sure there's some additional grip you gain, but this is minimal for contrast in the appearance
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Love your videos
Wow’
What takes out the bag chatter? The debuting wheel?
Yes, and the hand sanding. The sisal wheel gets out the scratches before polishing.
Might wanna clean that manky sink whilst you're at it 😄
Haha. It's permanent!
Great work! Question: Will the fine deburring wheel remove a deep gouge on the sole?
*Eventually. You're better off just hand sanding with 220, 400, 800, etc.
@@BradMeehan that's some lovely finish, but only with polishing you'll be protected from rust ? I just sanded the sole of my miura 4 iron and detected that the nickel bath went away, so I don't think that only polishing over this will protect the club from rust, or maybe im wrong...would you clarify? thanks
@@miguellopezquincoces4851 I'm this video, I polished a club that was not previously plated so corrosion and oxidation wouldn't be an issue. Your club, however sounds like they're plated so you'll need to either plate them using my home nickel plating tutorial or wipe them.often with corrosion prevention spray like CRC or WD40.
Looks great! do you have a link to the deburring wheel?
Here you go! amzn.to/3qYH1I8
So could you (me) not do this exact process on day Macgregor Tourneys from 70's ? Because of chrome plating?
There are additional steps to do the plating for those irons. Check out my Mizuno tutorial, then my MacGregor and Wilson videos for reference. Also, feel free to hit me up with any questions.
Also, the polishing steps are the same
How long did this club take you to do start to finish?
It was probably around 20 minutes, but filming it added more time.
@@BradMeehan What paint do you use?
Can I send my whole set to you
At this point I'm just doing DIY.
It's crazy how nike spent all that r&d money and made such sweet clubs then just gave up. I love my sumo sq 3 and 5 wood and my sumo driver is very forgiving
Agreed! They are very popular on eBay now. They're going for hundreds of dollars! Even if Nike reissued some sets online, they'd do well.
Do you do repairs for people. I have the same irons
No sir. This is a very easy club to restore because you only have to polish it. I have a video on how to make a polisher from a cheap bench grinder. Happy to answer any questions along the way.
@@BradMeehan I’ll check that video out, is it a fairly easy polish for these guys??? I just want em to shine bright again!
Thank you for this great video. Can I do this with Ping g700 irons?
You can. The only differences is that the Ping have a matte finish, so you'd have to hit them with the blasting gun (with the glass beads) after to dull-out the shine (unless you want them shiny and not matte).
@@BradMeehan Thank you for the reply. :)
@@BradMeehan what do I use for the face where the grooves are? It appears to be a different finish from the heads.
@@walkfreetv9553 Check out my video on reconditioning the face and see if that helps.
@@BradMeehan Thanks again. Great videos.
Hey Brad, what grit sandpaper were you using? Cheers!
I always start with the finest that will remove a scratch first before going more aggressive. 400 to 600 works, but takes more time. But, you'll end up doing less work on your polishing because you won't have to take out the deep scratches introduced by a heavier grit.
@@BradMeehan Thanks, greatly appreciated! Will put to use for a restoration of a set of TaylorMade 200s that are in the attic.
@@BradMeehan and last question from me, in another video you used white vinegar and salt to soak the head to remove rust - what proportion of salt to vinegar should I use? Cheers!
@@simonhuttley8850 I used a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and water. You can make it more dilute or use a different acid (like vinegar) but it will take longer.
You shouldn't need it on a stainless club like the Nike in this video.
Also, using salt will accelerate rust so avoid that in the mix.
They appear very chunky but I could be wrong
And are you selling these clubs on? Is there a market for it?
Definitely one of the ugliest sets ever.
Wait until you see my Cleveland VAS irons. U.G.L.Y.