SAAB 93 DOOR LOCK FIX 0$
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2020
- Hey guys, and welcome back to another video.
Its been a while.
In this video i will show you how to repair a door lock that triggers you alarm randomly, or just woks intermittently when locking or unlocking the car.
Enjoy the video. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Really appreciate this video and I’m sure there are others. Had the random alarm issue many years ago on my 2006 9-3. Took it to Saab repair shop who fixed it. Now that shop is gone. Videos like yours are invaluable to keeping these cars on the road. I have 207k miles on her now and she’s still my daily driver until I look for a replacement vehicle next year. Will keep the Saab of course.
This channel is GOLD! An actual DIY auto channel where the majority of the vids are on SAAB 93s 😁👍 Hope to try this fix during the summer. I have a few doors that are intermittently doing this. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much for this guide. I managed to repair one of my locks which was suffering from intermittent failure. Probably a worn out solder joint.
after replacing and repairing many locks its been my experience to work the locks by hand when they stick from sitting and not being used. 50 to 100 cycles pulling it up and down as it will engage and disengage and will work fine after that. works for me. saves a wet floor too for those that dont know what they are doing.
my locks randomly works or don't work
Thats just sheer luck and slight vibration. It doesnt actually manipulate the motor
Thanks a bunch brother. Front was easier in that I didn't have to remove the glass or regulator. Solid video. My 9³ is slowly coming together.
very nice, amusing and helpful video. Thanks a lot. I'll try this with my door.
Me and my brother have the same cars 9-3ss Aero 2003, same color,same package, and same problems... Door lock is one of them :D Thank you very much on this DIY video. Best whishes!
Me and my brother have identical cars as well 😂
Is there a way to test the unit by supplying power to the lock and deadlock pins as well as a continuity check on the door ajar pins before re-installing this in the car?
My door ajar works just fine. It's just intermittently not working on my passenger side of my 2004 arc convertible. It works, then stops, then works and so on. My driver side door lock unlock button doesn't work. The lock/unlock on my fob works for the driver.
hi how can i find from this dc motor?thank you
Thank you ! Random alarm has been following me since i bought my 9-3 and ended in removing the horn fuse to mute it. Other sensors was reason too so i disconnected them as well (hood opening sensor, body tilt sensor e.t.c.). Alarm also triggering when battery voltage goes low and it happens very often in winter because extreme cold conditions (i live in siberia). So i decided to simply mute the horn for now. Bad idea i know :)
Nickolay Tatarintsev theres alot of videos on how to change the batteries and caps in it. But i just disabled mine aswell with a tech2
@@Takamine840 disabling theft alarm with tech2 is possible? No way! This is great news! Because guys in repair shop which i know where tech2 is available said that this is impossible. The only thing i know for sure - i don't wont to work with them anymore :)) Thanks !
Nickolay Tatarintsev just Get a tech 2 from AliExpress and do it yourself. Its Only about 200usd
Very good video!But i didn't saw a check, if the silenoid motor is ok and the operation is good by order as well.
Note that these failures are intermittent by nature, so if i checked it once that will not mean its good, only time will tell after installing it in the car. So far this lock has been into my car for almost a year and working like a horse . Thanks
Good stuff! I'll be doing this tomorrow
Great video , my passenger door is also stuck some time some time work some time not, question is can this malfunction dry battery of the car ?
It could, but not all the times.
Hi, would this solve an issue on the the 9-3 2008 convertible driver door lock? The central locking, both inside and from the key, doesn't do anything do the driver side door (passenger door works fine). I can manually lock/unlock the door with the plastic tug. any thoughts would be very welcome! Thanks!
Yes it could be, but it’s not always the case, the motor inside the lock maybe totally dead and this repair will not revive it, or the door lock module (the driver window buttons panel) maybe faulty .. u will need a tech2 to read faults and other data from the car
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks, will give it a go!
I was able to get mine out and open it up based on your two videos. Unfortunately it looks like my dc motor is bad and after extensive searching I could not find any replacement online. I ordered an entire used door lock actuator assembly from ebay. Sad because a small motor like that should have been a lot cheaper, but the manufacturer, Johnson, only seems to sell in bulk to car companies and this particular model looks like it was custom made by them for Saab/GM.
Please may I ask how you figured out the motor was bad?
@@carlosmascarenhas4905 it had burn marks on it, but if you suspect it is bad you can also take the motor out and apply a current with a battery and some wires to see if it moves.
@@snwdn Thanks! I appreciate the prompt response. I am actually hoping to carry out this repair and then test the lock outside of the car applying voltage to each motor and also checking continuity
on the door ajar switch. Thanks again.
Hi in such a hassle at the minute, the automatic gear selector is stuck in park, i have tried to use the manual override however it still does not move! Currently has no gear knob as it has fallen apart, would it stay in park as i have no gearknob on it? Any help will be apprecieated🥺😭
U will need to move the white stick inside the lever (u should be able to see it if u dont have the knob) move it up or down while trying to shift, as well make sure the ignition is ON, and the press on brake light is extinguished
Bad solder joints (breaking loose?) from vibration
Hi flying . I know this video is a bit olfd J ust a strage situation. I followed your video intructions to the left front driver lock. The reason was the random alarm issue especially when the car was parked under hot sunshine. Before proceeding to the repair all functions where almost ok, by means central locking/unlocking of all doors exept some randome sporadic individual doors failing to operate (lock/unlock) Alarm was engaging and disengaging by remote as well. After the repair (resoldering , greasing etc.) and while connecting the 2 door plugs the sirene started to sing and I stoped it by the remote (central unlock button ). That was the end of story. The lock is electrically dead now, all doors central locking by remote is dead No theft fucntion anymore (no flashing dush red light) and no steering wheel locking/ unlocking even if I through in the remote into ISM. The only sign while I'm using remote button for cental locking is the flashing of the left turning light for a couple of times. Windows central control is working but can't program the driver's window. The only door lock that sounds electrically active is the rear left (behind driver) which gives the motor sound while I lock it manualy . All other locks are dead. I diconnected negative battery pole but still the same symptoms. Luckily the engine cranks and can lock the car manually with the driver's door key (all other doors are manually locked by hand). Surprising the trunk can ulock by remote(!!) Any idea???
U probably bridged a connection inside or didn’t assemble the lock correctly , because there are few variations of that lock, i cant really help in details, but u should be able with the help of the appropriate wiring diagram of ur car to test if there is any short between pins at the locks, and if the resistance values for motors makes sense, and if the pins dedicated to the door lock sensor are changing when door is locked & unlocked .
I've read that it is very common for the driver door switch pack causing alarms when doors are all locked with FOB. What is your opinion on this? My 2010 9-3 XWD started alarms when locked with FOB, so for now, I hard key it until I can figure it out. Also, I can lock it with the key, but can't unlock it with the key. What could be jammed up? Nice video!
Without a scan tool it is 100% impossible to figure out what failed, could be any door lock/switch pack/trunk/ hood .. and the key
unlocking issue its either bad cylinder or door lock, also need to disconnect the link between them and try to figure out which has failed, cylinder or lock
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I have a tech 2, and will diagnose with it. I was told before I read your reply to someone else that tech 2 wouldn't locate the source of alarms. I'm glad I read your reply! Now I'll have to get it out and find the fault. What function on the tech 2 will I be using? I've used it several times on other things, like programming an extra key and a few other functions, but still learning the functions. You are a great resource! Nice to know somebody that really knows their stuff!
@@doug900S thanks man, somewhere in the theft alarm menu, u will need to find “last trigger reason” something like this, which will tell u what was the last reason the alarm was triggered .
Ofcourse that on top of any faults stored “DTCs”
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the quick reply! Hopefully I can do something this weekend. Until then, I hard key it, to bypass the system. And, I can also diagnose my 07 Saab for the same issue! Love my 2010 XWD though! BTW, if you remember, when I bought a rebuilt ECM, and it failed? I did get my money refunded. I then purchased one from ebay, flashed it with trionic 8 software. It has been perfect since that day, a couple of years, I think! I installed a plate kit to isolate it from the manifold transient heat, to hopefully extend the life, and I have one to install on my 2010 9-3, well
@@doug900S if installing it make u happy then why not, though i doubt it protect the ecu from my failure analysis ..
I have a 08 9-3. The alarm goes off randomly even while driving and the doors lock and unlock repeatedly and randomly also while driving or stationary. Do you have any thoughts what the issue might be. The Door actuator? Which one?
Do you know what code set on your car that made you know it was your right rear door lock? I used a friend's TechII and see my car is setting B3001 - Door Ajar Switch Right Rear Circuit. Is that the correct code to know that it is the right rear door lock causing these alarm issues? Thanks for the video!
Correct .. and that basically points to bad solder point or switch on that lock board.
Hi mate, i have diagnosed my 2011 93 as having a fault with rear right door module. Code b3001. I have checked connectors and cleaned from what it told me on WIS. Do you have a guide on removing the door card and glass etc?
The 2011 should be the same as this video, its not the best video i know, but should do the job.
Assuming it is the rear door.
th-cam.com/video/IaBfd3iSzfI/w-d-xo.html
I just soldered my left rear lock and it worked for a very short time the first time and the same story when I soldered it again but this time the sid complained about tsl not working. Also the theft alarm doesn't go off when opening the door while the car is locked. What can the problem possibly be. That door seems to be totally disconnected from the car but the powered windows still work. The car doesn't know either if the door is closed or not
I am thinking it's the connector which seemed to be slightly lose
Many likes!Thank you a lot, i will try to fix it!Could you make a video about fixing the side mirror?Actually for the folding operation.How to open the mirror (with safety) and fix the spring that is the ...guilty (i suppose, if i have mistake, please correct me) for no folding.
Thanks, im not sure if the spring at fault, but i never opened those, the spring is under huge pressure, and there is no way to take it out without cutting metal
Thanks, im not sure if the spring at fault, but i never opened those, the spring is under huge pressure, and there is no way to take it out without cutting metal
Thanks, im not sure if the spring at fault, but i never opened those, the spring is under huge pressure, and there is no way to take it out without cutting metal
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you a lot.I think, that there is no need to pullout the spring.I suppose that, if you have an optical reach to the spring, maybe, by a screwdriver to get the rigth position (if it has moved such a little bit from its rigth position) and it will be fixed.Of course you know better, i make a guess.It is a very common problem for the SAAB 9-3 and if a solve will be found that will be marvelous!
The powerfold system is virtually impossible to repair. The gears are made of soft zamak and wear out. Powerfold systems across a range of vehicles are very unreliable generally. Especially those mid-noughties Magna systems.
Did you use tech2 to identify alarm triggers?
Great video content!
Thanks, yes it did ..
How can you remove the door panel if the door is closed and locked won't open from inside or the outside?
Its hard without breaking anything .. fix why its locked first
you can remove panel even though the door is lock.After that break the lock by a long screw driver and hammer.
My saab93 2005 no power to drivers side door any ideas guys the wiring harness that comes through dash to door how can I get it through dash side to check for broken wires any videos on how it's done would be appreciated
I assume u checked the fuses.
Did u check for power at the connector between the door and the car near the hinges ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY all new fuses I cant really test for power door harness seems really tight that's why I was asking is it possible to pull harness through body so I can check wiring thank you for your reply
0$... I like it..
trop difficile pour moi
OMG......these cars are a NIGHTMARE!
not really
my only problem is doors