Whether you're hand spiking the real thing or model track, spikes are never set opposite one another on the same rail. They are cross checked. This helps to check expansion and contraction especially on real track. Set one spike slightly left of the center of the tie Then on the other side of the rail set the opposite spike slightly right of the first.. On real track sometimes anchor spikes are used on curves. Some tie plates provide an extra hole for an anchor spike to help hold gauge on curves.
You took far too long explaining stuff . In the whole long video all I have learnt is to stick sleepers to a bit of tape which I already knew. I wanted to learn how to spike turnouts on a operating railway.
why not paint the glue on the ties, then put the assembly upside down on the desk with a compressive weight or a weight on top like you did with the clamps?
If you had a need for a more precise stretch of ties (I like the roughly laid look for old sidings too), you could run the tape along the grade marks on your cutting mat and use that for the tie spacing. Tape your ruler on the cutting mat as well and butt the ties up to it.
Note: In the real world, spikes are never set opposite each other on either side of the rail. They are "crosschecked". This is done by setting a spike one one side of the rail to the left of the center of the tie and setting the other spike to the right of the center of the tie on the other side of the rail. This serves to anchor the rail and to check movement from expansion and contraction. It also works in HO. You can grab the rail with pliers. It will be very difficult to move!
I've used a Dremel tool with a drill bit slightly thinner that the spike to pre-drill the spike holes; makes it much easier and faster. Also, I would use much smaller spikes. ( I was spiking O gauge track with code 100 rail).
nice vid... I made a similar diorama just to see how handlaid rail would look... I was surprised at how even a plain old stretch of straight track looked so good... I used code 70 weathered micro engineering rail... looked REALLY nice. the key is the weathered ties... that balsa wood when stained looks REALLY REALLY NICE... it makes the rail and the whole scene really stand out
Whether you're hand spiking the real thing or model track, spikes are never set opposite one another on the same rail. They are cross checked. This helps to check expansion and contraction especially on real track. Set one spike slightly left of the center of the tie Then on the other side of the rail set the opposite spike slightly right of the first.. On real track sometimes anchor spikes are used on curves. Some tie plates provide an extra hole for an anchor spike to help hold gauge on curves.
I'm going to fall asleep watching you do one tie at a time, build a tie jig, it goes much faster and you'll feel better because you got more done.
You took far too long explaining stuff . In the whole long video all I have learnt is to stick sleepers to a bit of tape which I already knew.
I wanted to learn how to spike turnouts on a operating railway.
Any chance you could do a video on making the balsa wood ties? The are the best ties I have seen anywhere, period.
why not paint the glue on the ties, then put the assembly upside down on the desk with a compressive weight or a weight on top like you did with the clamps?
and a track gauge is your best friend... constantly checking it... also homosote makes a good roadbed material... easy to spike and holds them well
If you had a need for a more precise stretch of ties (I like the roughly laid look for old sidings too), you could run the tape along the grade marks on your cutting mat and use that for the tie spacing. Tape your ruler on the cutting mat as well and butt the ties up to it.
just found your videos, but I would suggest that you use PC board ties to help hold the gauge. on track about every 5 to 7 ties is fine.
Note: In the real world, spikes are never set opposite each other on either side of the rail. They are "crosschecked". This is done by setting a spike one one side of the rail to the left of the center of the tie and setting the other spike to the right of the center of the tie on the other side of the rail. This serves to anchor the rail and to check movement from expansion and contraction. It also works in HO. You can grab the rail with pliers. It will be very difficult to move!
Very nice video, thank you for your tips and suggestions. This is something im looking into doing so this was a helpful video.
I've used a Dremel tool with a drill bit slightly thinner that the spike to pre-drill the spike holes; makes it much easier and faster. Also, I would use much smaller spikes. ( I was spiking O gauge track with code 100 rail).
I have a cnc i guess I can make interesting stuff :)
Good job .
Would take forever to build any size railroad this way
This is next level display stuff
Beautiful work!
nice vid... I made a similar diorama just to see how handlaid rail would look... I was surprised at how even a plain old stretch of straight track looked so good... I used code 70 weathered micro engineering rail... looked REALLY nice. the key is the weathered ties... that balsa wood when stained looks REALLY REALLY NICE... it makes the rail and the whole scene really stand out