Finishing the Hot Rod Deluxe Dumble Conversion! // Gray Bench Electronics
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Welcome back to the bench!
Time to wrap up the Fender Hot Rod Deluxe to Dumble Overdrive Special conversion (finally!).
Part 3 here will show some final measurements and listening tests. Enjoy!
Luigi Retro-Custom HDR2ODS PCB: luigiretro.com...
Follow me on instagram: @graybenchelec
Business contact: graybenchelec@gmail.com
#hotroddeluxe #dumble #dumbleoverdrivespecial #dumbleods #tubeamp #electronics
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There's obviously a lot of quality professional amp repairers giving you advice! You're a lucky dude...
Such fun to hear those incredible overdriven tones while looking at a Fender amp. Great project. Looking forward to the next 😁
Maybe someone has already suggested it but using a terminal style wire crimp which is a “post” style of crimp on that’s very effective in making solid connections of the sort you were concerned about. In fact they’re intended for those green terminal blocks!
Nice job! It needs a cream back or g12-65 now.
10k is just the beginning. Such a great channel. Wish you all the success.
Sounds pretty good. Very clear highs, the jazz mode at the higher volume flattened out the minds. Nice build!
I use loctite medium for the bridge string saddle screws on fender guitars, it holds up well on those small screws. Congratulations on the build conversion 👏👍👌😃🎸
I'm about to pull the trigger on this and mod my Deville. One thing for certain is I'm going to replace the stock Jenson speakers I have in mine. There is a dude who is using a WGS ET-65 in his modded amp and it is magic compared to other speakers.
Sounds great! Excellent job!
I am very worried about the terminal blocks .. There is considerable vibration in a combo and I am sure it will shake them loose.. Could be disastrous . Solder all please !!! or inject screws with locktite etc ...
Locktite isn't a bad idea, time consuming though! There's also the threat of the locktite seeping onto the contacts and creating a bad connection that way.
This video makes a good point, in that the soft solder will deform and "loosen" the mechnical connection. Might have to get some of the ferrules they discuss: th-cam.com/video/KE3CjZ0BUFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=C8sl-mHuv4w1j4Wl&t=256
Wouldn't it just be easier to unsolder the terminal blocks and wire directly to the board? I'm worried too.. @@graybenchelec
@@midwestrepairdesk I don't think that would be easier actually. Maybe I'm just shit at desoldering 😆Besides, then you'd be giving up the benefit of the screw terrminals, namely the ability to easily remove the PCB for repairs.
Love the idea of the screw terminal blocks, but on my MCI console I’ve found that even if something works ok for 10 years, it might not be great for 40. I don’t think Mr D would have used them.
Nice, been eagerly awaiting this video,
I would not tin the stranded wire when using screw terminals. Solder tends to creep under pressure and your connection will come loose over time.
Better to use crimped end sleves on the wires, thpse, if properly crimped) provide good connection and are sufficient compressed to ensure proper connection for long time, hot and cold.
Also ensure your terminal blocks are high current version, there is versions for
Nice component choices! For one offs, those Vishay Dale resistors are worth it just for looks, although the colour of the higher wattage versions do look like hot dogs!
I'm not convinced by the screw terminals either, especially with tinned wire because if the solder gets hot enough to deform, you lose all preload. Crimped ferrules would be better but I still doubt you'd get things tight enough to be properly reliable without stripping threads. Would be nice to see if you can come up with a better quick disconnect solution.
Oh, and congrats on 10k! You are making interesting content that is well presented and informative. Glad the effort is starting to pay off.
Great stuff!
i would change those heater center tap resistor to 1/2 watt , if you have a short they fuse and save your transformer.
A speaker swap would be nice to hear - or with an extension cab (2 greenbacks?) and the fender speaker disengaged. I used a Vintage 30 in mine (without your mods) and it was instantly a much better amp. Bet your's would be really great.
I had the same thought! I bet the distortion would sound much less fuzzy and zippy.
Congratulations on the 10k subs, I look forward to your videos every week.
You were kind enough to repair my original MXR distortion + I remain indebted to you and send you my kindest regards.
I'd definitely be nervous about those terminal strip screws coming loose particularly in a combo
It's a cool project. I'd much rather see someone develop a drop in board that keeps the stock hot rod deluxe or deville circuit, but drops all the extra shit no one wants like the effects loop, and second channel. These amps are modern classics, and have their own tone apart from classic tweeds or black panel amps.
I love your channel - let that be clear. But: Thanks for saving me from a disappointment building this. The circuit cannot deliver without the proper IRON (OT and PT), the cabinet and the speaker.
Indeed ....Sounds wooly as F ... You can't cook a proper burger with ground rat meat....But he knows how to cook tho
Speaker is the main issue.
Go to Andertons channel and watch the video where they do a speaker shootout.
Great videos Joe. Well done on the 10k
I wonder does this conversion use an external or board mounted trim control. Leave it to Dumble to put a gain control inbetween each gain stage.
sounds more like a big muff, than a dumble.
It is a very bad idea to use such terminal blocks! They have a large mounting capacity, poor vibration resistance, and they are also highly oxidized
Soundwise I am not convinced. External pedals like a Klon Clone or alike give better results for my taste ....
od kinda harsh brash init?
Can I find those PCB tube-mounts somewhere just to make wiring the sockets easier? What would they be called, exactly? I really don't like the way the contacts on Belton sockets float around so much.
Here you go, just scroll down: luigiretro.com/
@@graybenchelecFantastic! Thanks so much.
How many dB would you estimate at the loudest part of the video? Ha before I could finish typing you go to HP by F. my dad had the 45 rpm record.
And where are you located?
I like the PCB boards for the tubes. Where can they be purchased?
Here’s the octal ones: luigiretro.com/LRC-VT8A
Awesome, thanks for the quick reply…
Hocus Pocus by Focus!
How much do you charge for this conversion?
Sorry I don't do these as a service. You might reach out to a local amp tech though and see if they're up for it!
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NOOOOO …… never tin stranded wire going into a screw term. If you think about it…. Wires are easily crushed behind a lil tightened screw….. tinned and now that lil screw has to try to crush lead. Anything signal is fine but there is better ways to do it but never I repeat never AC or DC supplies.
The problem with crushing loose stranded wires is that they will just be pushed out of the way as you tighten. But the solder doesn't necessarily solve the problem either as the lead is soft and will deform, effectively loosening the screw.
The wire ferrules seem like the best solution if you're going screw terminals, which look like plated brass.
@@graybenchelec not if you twist your ends.
Use crimped end sleeves!@@graybenchelec