Easy to miss-route the chain..I was 3 rides in after waxing my chain when I realized I had routed the thing over the lower jockey pulley cage. The wax was so slippery I could still ride it though I was kind of thinking there was a bit more noise in the drive train than usual 🙂
@@CyclespeedTours That tube is the one think i would not skimp on because of weight, crank spindle can sand down brake hose and brake will stop working wich is no bueno :). I have seen it all as a bike mechanic, even cut down in half steel crank spindle from shift cable that on first glace looked like they where not touching. Otherwise your bike looks amazing, thanks for videos.
@@martinkroutil worth considering for sure, but as best I can tell, this thinner axle does not touch brake hose unless handlebars are turned severely. Plus if does touch, both are greased and pressure is very light. My brake hose shows no signs of any wear.
Have you ever tried the Shimano wide axle pedals? My pedal stroke from above looked just like yours. Heal very close to crank. Tried the +4 Shimano DA pedals and I'm glad I did. More power 😀
Can't say I that I have. My heels are close to the crank because I have a slightly 'duck' set up where my toes point out a bit. I think I would prefer to have my legs driving as straight down as possible.....
Well I have pulled the trigger on this crank and the metal rings. Advice please Did you have to install spacers on the drive and none drive side of the crank for the SL8? I have looked the instructions which could be better imo. Does a total length of 90.5mm need to be achieved with the install for the spindle? Cybrei told me if you use a 0.5mm shim on the drive side this also has to be replicated on the none drive side.
Testing my memory here....pretty sure i installed a thin one on the DS. My adjuster is wound in a fair way, and my crank arm to chainstay gap is pretty good and even. If anything it maybe could have used another thin one one the DS. All seems to be working well.
I always use just a little plumbers tape on my bottom bracket installing far as the chain noise try indexing your gears every time I change set I have to index gears
Yeah, opinions differ on the benefit og PTFE tape on the BB threads, but I get the idea in principle. Yeah, I did already re index a bit but perhaps not enough.
@@jonathanwoo6597 But the bike was totally silent. Spindle looks bad simply because the brake line took the paint (anodizing) off it, but the spindle itself is OK.
@@CyclespeedTours The white marks on the center of the axle aren't the problem. The part of the axle where the BB bearing touches have been worn away, which can be seen clearly in the video. The bearing wear on the axle is caused by bearing under-rotation. The bearing and axle require a tight fit. Once the axle becomes under-sized the axle will move relative to the inner race of the bearing. And that movement causes the creaking. The THM BB itself isn't the source of the creak. The source is the crank axle rocking within the bearing in the BB. I hope I explained it better this time.
@@jonathanwoo6597 There will always be visible wear on the axle where it contacts the bearing. I have seen this on all axles. This axle has no play, and is not 'worn out'. And the noise disappeared when I changed the Rotor cranks for new ones, so the axles was NOT the source of the noise. To say that the axle has 'worn away' is not possible by eye. You need to measure it with a vernier caliper.
@@CyclespeedTours The noise could be temporarily gone when you changed the crank simply due to the fact that you adjusted the crank's preload. Adjusting the preload has some effect on reducing the axle to bearing play. I think we need to contact Hambini and settle this one with his help 😆
Bling! I noticed that you have your shifters rolled in slightly. How do you like it? Recently I rolled mine in a little and I’ve noticed that my wrists are in more comfortable position and probably I’m little bit more aero.
I only did It because my bars are wider than I wanted - 400 instead of my old 380 (just ordered 360). But feels comfy enough. Some riders have them super tilted which I think defeats the object....!
@@CyclespeedToursspeaking of which…will you continue with the same cockpit product, albeit in the reduced width? Or switch to a competitor? Am actually on 42 currently, which I find a significant force multiplier on the bigger x steeper climbs, viz. leverage, but am keen to try 40.
@@pakelly99 I feel too wide on the 40cm, and have ordered a Darimo 36cm (I was using 38 on the Ostro). Studies have shown big aero benefits in using narrower bars. However, as you mention, when pedalling standing, you need to counteract the leg force with the opposite side arm/hand. You have a lever of 20cm as opposed to your pedal which is about 13cm from centre, so you need less force than your leg. I have never felt 'lacking' in arm/shoulder force, no matter the bar width, and I spend more time than most out of the saddle. Possibly a wider bar could help extreme efforts like sprinting, but I think that generally, the aero gains are worth a narrower bar.
Do you mind checking to see if your front wheel is off center relative to the fork legs? Mine and several people's SL8 have this issue. I think it's because the NDS fork leg has a different angle than the DS leg. I just posted a pic. on the WW SL8 forum about this issue. I just want to confirm that yours is the same as mine. On mine the wheel seems to be 2mm offset to the DS fork leg. Thanks.
@@CyclespeedTours I contacted Specialized U.S.A. They said a little bit off-center is normal. A lot is not normal. They sent me a pic showing a fork that is severely off-center, and asked me to contact my retailer if mine looked like that. I don't think mine is as bad but I need to do a comparison to confirm.
Ha! reminds me of my cube litening pro where the dropout was lower on one side than the other. The wheel was off-centre and at a slant. It was considered within tolerance and not warrantable. It used to create the scariest speed wobble!
Hi Andrew Have you noticed if you have an issue with the front fork on your SL8? I have just noticed a problem with mine which apparently Specialized are aware of but have not said anything about it! I have Roval Rapide wheels which as you know the front is very wide externally, the width of the rim highlighted a problem which I thought was a dishing problem with the wheel, as the gap on the disc brake side was 3mm wider than the gap on the other side, however having checked the dishing at my LBS the wheel was accurate, the problem is actually a manufacturing problem with the forks, my LBS Called them whilst I was present, they confirmed they are aware of a manufacturing fault affecting the forks on these bikes which causes this issue, I now have a warranty claim for a replacement fork which will be around 4 months 🤷♂️ the issue is less evident with a narrower external width wheel which is why I initially didn’t notice it, one would have expected better from Specialized 😩
Yes, I've been following this issue closely. My SL8 seems to be OK, but I have seen many photos of forks that are not OK. It's amazing that quality control can still slip up like this, even with the biggest brands. Hopefully they resolve them all quickly, but at least you can still ride the bike safely.
@@Bikes-guitars Wow, that suscks. One day the bike industry will make a bike that doesn't have anything wrong with it.....Really not cool if you're paying 15kE for the top end bike
I will never understand what length people go to just to have a lighter bike when physics and math tell you it is by far the most pointless way to optimize. A 7-8 kg Tarmac with deep and wide rims, 30mm tubeless tyres, and a stock shimano bb and crank will run circles around that setup. Most importantly, it will not creak for weeks on end
It depends on where you ride. If you are riding almost exclusively mountains as I do, then weight is an important factor. And a light bike feels snappier, quicker to respond. The difference in feel between my 450g Extralite front wheel and a 650g deep wheel is night and day. I am running 28mm tyres without light bulb effect, which is plenty wide enough for my 65kgs. So you can optimise everything as best you can, not just weight but Crr and aero too. My Factor OStro will be optimised for aero for the rare flat rides that I do. Stock Shimano is solid, but not immune from creaks either......
@@CyclespeedTours All well and good. But don't you think, a modern tubeless tyre that runs a couple of watts faster and a drive train setup with a sensible bb/crank choice and a non wobbly chain ring will save you far more even uphill? 4-5 Watts saving is the equivalent of 1-2 kg weight difference if not more on almost every climb ...
@@MS-bw7yt Tyre performance is very much dependent on the type/make of tyre, pressure, road surface, etc. Veloflex and Vittoira usually do pretty well in tests, whether tubs or tubeless. And Crr gains are proportional to speed, so again more relevant for high speed flat riding. There is nothing 'wrong' with either the Rotor or the Cybrei chainsets - both work fine and have many happy users. But I like to try stuff out - if the Cybrei disappoints in any way, I-ll take it off.
Easy to miss-route the chain..I was 3 rides in after waxing my chain when I realized I had routed the thing over the lower jockey pulley cage. The wax was so slippery I could still ride it though I was kind of thinking there was a bit more noise in the drive train than usual 🙂
Great minds &^*% up alike!!
We sell quite a lot of these over on Panda Podium, very good feedback so far!
Good to know!
2:01 That little cylinder will isolate the brake hose and wires in rubbing against the crank spindle. 😊
yes, but they barely touch, if at all (Di2 definitely not) so not an issue.
@@CyclespeedTours That tube is the one think i would not skimp on because of weight, crank spindle can sand down brake hose and brake will stop working wich is no bueno :). I have seen it all as a bike mechanic, even cut down in half steel crank spindle from shift cable that on first glace looked like they where not touching. Otherwise your bike looks amazing, thanks for videos.
@@martinkroutil worth considering for sure, but as best I can tell, this thinner axle does not touch brake hose unless handlebars are turned severely. Plus if does touch, both are greased and pressure is very light. My brake hose shows no signs of any wear.
@@martinkroutil seen that too. Alu Spindle had a 1mm groove worn in. Didnt notice it during the install
Have you ever tried the Shimano wide axle pedals? My pedal stroke from above looked just like yours. Heal very close to crank. Tried the +4 Shimano DA pedals and I'm glad I did. More power 😀
Can't say I that I have. My heels are close to the crank because I have a slightly 'duck' set up where my toes point out a bit. I think I would prefer to have my legs driving as straight down as possible.....
thanks, will wait for the long term review of the crank
It will come!
Thank you for this review! Would you advise to go with Cybrei after testing it? I’m hesitating between Cybrei and THM for the crankset.
THM is quite a bit lighter but much more expensive and very hard to find. My Cybrei has been flawless so far.
Impressive weight! What are your favorite tubs from all you have ridden?
Greetings from Germany!
Thanks! Vittoria Corsa re good, but I do like the Veloflex Pro TOur Race that I use now.
@@CyclespeedTours I just ordered some Vittoria Corsas for 60€ each direct from Vittoria. They are quite cheap at the moment😉
@@Boogie_man2506 Yes, probably the best value, Veloflex are 20E more.....
Well I have pulled the trigger on this crank and the metal rings.
Advice please Did you have to install spacers on the drive and none drive side of the crank for the SL8?
I have looked the instructions which could be better imo.
Does a total length of 90.5mm need to be achieved with the install for the spindle?
Cybrei told me if you use a 0.5mm shim on the drive side this also has to be replicated on the none drive side.
Testing my memory here....pretty sure i installed a thin one on the DS. My adjuster is wound in a fair way, and my crank arm to chainstay gap is pretty good and even. If anything it maybe could have used another thin one one the DS. All seems to be working well.
I always use just a little plumbers tape on my bottom bracket installing far as the chain noise try indexing your gears every time I change set I have to index gears
Yeah, opinions differ on the benefit og PTFE tape on the BB threads, but I get the idea in principle. Yeah, I did already re index a bit but perhaps not enough.
That Rotor spindle looked like it had a bad time with the bearings over the years😢
That worn spindle would be the source of the creaking
@@jonathanwoo6597 But the bike was totally silent. Spindle looks bad simply because the brake line took the paint (anodizing) off it, but the spindle itself is OK.
@@CyclespeedTours The white marks on the center of the axle aren't the problem. The part of the axle where the BB bearing touches have been worn away, which can be seen clearly in the video. The bearing wear on the axle is caused by bearing under-rotation. The bearing and axle require a tight fit. Once the axle becomes under-sized the axle will move relative to the inner race of the bearing. And that movement causes the creaking. The THM BB itself isn't the source of the creak. The source is the crank axle rocking within the bearing in the BB. I hope I explained it better this time.
@@jonathanwoo6597 There will always be visible wear on the axle where it contacts the bearing. I have seen this on all axles. This axle has no play, and is not 'worn out'. And the noise disappeared when I changed the Rotor cranks for new ones, so the axles was NOT the source of the noise. To say that the axle has 'worn away' is not possible by eye. You need to measure it with a vernier caliper.
@@CyclespeedTours The noise could be temporarily gone when you changed the crank simply due to the fact that you adjusted the crank's preload. Adjusting the preload has some effect on reducing the axle to bearing play. I think we need to contact Hambini and settle this one with his help 😆
Advantage over rotor could be that cybrei has a spider (without PM) which allows dura ace chainrings? So lightweight and best shifting experience?
True. There's nothing particularly special about the Cybrei rings, so maybe I could try DA one day.
@@CyclespeedTours very curious about that, as I am in doubt between cybrei and rotor ;)…
Bling! I noticed that you have your shifters rolled in slightly. How do you like it? Recently I rolled mine in a little and I’ve noticed that my wrists are in more comfortable position and probably I’m little bit more aero.
I only did It because my bars are wider than I wanted - 400 instead of my old 380 (just ordered 360). But feels comfy enough. Some riders have them super tilted which I think defeats the object....!
@@CyclespeedToursspeaking of which…will you continue with the same cockpit product, albeit in the reduced width? Or switch to a competitor? Am actually on 42 currently, which I find a significant force multiplier on the bigger x steeper climbs, viz. leverage, but am keen to try 40.
@@pakelly99 I feel too wide on the 40cm, and have ordered a Darimo 36cm (I was using 38 on the Ostro). Studies have shown big aero benefits in using narrower bars. However, as you mention, when pedalling standing, you need to counteract the leg force with the opposite side arm/hand. You have a lever of 20cm as opposed to your pedal which is about 13cm from centre, so you need less force than your leg. I have never felt 'lacking' in arm/shoulder force, no matter the bar width, and I spend more time than most out of the saddle. Possibly a wider bar could help extreme efforts like sprinting, but I think that generally, the aero gains are worth a narrower bar.
installed the chain over the cage lol. been there. looking at these for an sl6 build. the price point seems unmatched.
They aren't that cheap. Similar to euro competition.
Do you mind checking to see if your front wheel is off center relative to the fork legs? Mine and several people's SL8 have this issue. I think it's because the NDS fork leg has a different angle than the DS leg. I just posted a pic. on the WW SL8 forum about this issue. I just want to confirm that yours is the same as mine. On mine the wheel seems to be 2mm offset to the DS fork leg. Thanks.
Yes, mine is also like this and it doesn't look right to me. I need to have a closer look at with spirit levels, laser etc. when I get home.
@@CyclespeedTours I contacted Specialized U.S.A. They said a little bit off-center is normal. A lot is not normal. They sent me a pic showing a fork that is severely off-center, and asked me to contact my retailer if mine looked like that. I don't think mine is as bad but I need to do a comparison to confirm.
Ha! reminds me of my cube litening pro where the dropout was lower on one side than the other. The wheel was off-centre and at a slant. It was considered within tolerance and not warrantable. It used to create the scariest speed wobble!
I've done that exact same thing with my chain, and I was like WTF IS MAKING THAT NOISE xD
You did all that to save 17g?
The things I do for my viewers, right?!
Hi Andrew
Have you noticed if you have an issue with the front fork on your SL8? I have just noticed a problem with mine which apparently Specialized are aware of but have not said anything about it! I have Roval Rapide wheels which as you know the front is very wide externally, the width of the rim highlighted a problem which I thought was a dishing problem with the wheel, as the gap on the disc brake side was 3mm wider than the gap on the other side, however having checked the dishing at my LBS the wheel was accurate, the problem is actually a manufacturing problem with the forks, my LBS Called them whilst I was present, they confirmed they are aware of a manufacturing fault affecting the forks on these bikes which causes this issue, I now have a warranty claim for a replacement fork which will be around 4 months 🤷♂️ the issue is less evident with a narrower external width wheel which is why I initially didn’t notice it, one would have expected better from Specialized 😩
Yes, I've been following this issue closely. My SL8 seems to be OK, but I have seen many photos of forks that are not OK. It's amazing that quality control can still slip up like this, even with the biggest brands. Hopefully they resolve them all quickly, but at least you can still ride the bike safely.
@@CyclespeedTours I’ve just posted a video of mine, it’s miles out, Specialized uk are quoting 4 months to provide a replacement fork 🤷♂️🙈
@@Bikes-guitars Wow, that suscks. One day the bike industry will make a bike that doesn't have anything wrong with it.....Really not cool if you're paying 15kE for the top end bike
holy fucking smokes :D 5.9kg ... incredible gratz
5.85 dude...LOL
I did that chain thing once when the rainbow was still in b&w. Nice weight man!!! Get a patent on the sausage spot 👍
Thanks! Yeah, it's not the first time to be honest....!
Scared of the rain? Its only water it won't hurt u
Never really like the rain, but here in Mallorca the issue is extremely slippery roads when it gets wet.
Carbon chainrings aren't good for 2x, the teeth can shear off.
Let's see!
It is stiffer, carbon crank
Can you feel that 11g off the bike? How much faster is it? 🤣
No, but I can feel the 2kgs versus a 7.85kg bike.
I will never understand what length people go to just to have a lighter bike when physics and math tell you it is by far the most pointless way to optimize. A 7-8 kg Tarmac with deep and wide rims, 30mm tubeless tyres, and a stock shimano bb and crank will run circles around that setup. Most importantly, it will not creak for weeks on end
It depends on where you ride. If you are riding almost exclusively mountains as I do, then weight is an important factor. And a light bike feels snappier, quicker to respond. The difference in feel between my 450g Extralite front wheel and a 650g deep wheel is night and day. I am running 28mm tyres without light bulb effect, which is plenty wide enough for my 65kgs. So you can optimise everything as best you can, not just weight but Crr and aero too. My Factor OStro will be optimised for aero for the rare flat rides that I do. Stock Shimano is solid, but not immune from creaks either......
@@CyclespeedTours All well and good. But don't you think, a modern tubeless tyre that runs a couple of watts faster and a drive train setup with a sensible bb/crank choice and a non wobbly chain ring will save you far more even uphill? 4-5 Watts saving is the equivalent of 1-2 kg weight difference if not more on almost every climb ...
@@MS-bw7yt Tyre performance is very much dependent on the type/make of tyre, pressure, road surface, etc. Veloflex and Vittoira usually do pretty well in tests, whether tubs or tubeless. And Crr gains are proportional to speed, so again more relevant for high speed flat riding. There is nothing 'wrong' with either the Rotor or the Cybrei chainsets - both work fine and have many happy users. But I like to try stuff out - if the Cybrei disappoints in any way, I-ll take it off.