With regards the axle breakages, If you assume constant torque from the rider. A steel axle at 24mm Outside Diameter and an aluminium axle at around 29/30mm outside diameter has a comparable shear stress in the side wall. When the axle diameter is made smaller but the material is not compensated ie 24mm aluminium - you may run into some problems. It should be noted that you can usually alleviate these by making the side walls thicker but then you add weight. I'd be more worried about hardened steel bearings going into 30mm axles which is why I prefer 24mm (shimano axles) with a delrin spacer and then the bearing - basically it protects the expensive component which is usually the crank.
How many brands can we spot ripped off in this? Lets count: 1. Shimano for the axle standard/IP 2. Rotor aldhu chainrings 3. Sram branding 4. Raceface branding 5. Sram packaging. Utterly frustrating because they clearly know-how to make something. Just needed 20 more mins at the design desk to make it original. Will that mindset ever change? Who likes this stuff? Also wouldn't touch a 24mm Alu axle with a barge pole!
I know that cranks are designed to take the full weight of someone stood on them, but did anyone else flinch on the stiffness test? Lovely videos, great work! Thanks for taking the time to create, edit, and share! 🥖🥖🥖
Cheers Dave, glad you liked it! But yeah that stiffness test didn't really show much tbh, crank arms army really designed to be stressed in that direction, but was interesting regardless I think.
More than just standing on them I hope. When taking off from a standing start, one might pull up on one toe clip while pressing down with more than full weight on the other peddle.
No rider weight limit means Race Works didn’t do any testing. As always Chinese groupset makers tend to release products early and use early adopters as product testers. Future product revisions fixes of the design are only done once failures are publicly reported.
I bought three. Two have been fine, but one was consistently coming loose. Came off on the non-drive side twice, causing a crash both times. Was torqued WAY past the mfr's specs the second time, and just came off still attached to the cleat. Tossed that one in the bin, but am (I know) still riding the other two, which have been great.
Exactly the video I've been waiting for. Was holding out for skypivot carbon crank, but that doesn't look like it will ever materialize. Very good to see an alternative to skypivot. Thank you Luke.
Cheers Brad! Yeah it's definitely something to bear in mind. It's all well and good chasing grams off the bike, but you need to be sensible and understand the limits of your gear at the end of the day. I've shown failures of cheap carbon parts before, so it pays to be conscious of these sort of things!
Another concern here might be the aluminum inserts in the carbon arms, carbon doesn't change form in different temperatures, but aluminum does. So whatever they use to adhere that inserts into the arms, might potentially fail at some point.
Very true. I will say though, all the BSA BB shells in my carbon frames have been fine over the years. But definitely see your point, one to keep an eye on for sure!
I think you're mistaken about most of us using steel chainrings. Steel chainrings are mostly found on very low model bikes. The odd exception is that at the Tiagra (or so) level, the small chainring will be steel but the big one will be aluminum.
I was using aluminum alloy rings, inner and outer, over 40 years ago. Even though I generated a great ddeal of torque on take-off, those rings never let me down.
100% correct. ALL mid-level and higher road groupsets will have 7000 series, aircraft aluminum, chainrings. Only the very lowest level road chainrings and 1x mtb chainrings will be steel.
The only thing that worries me with this racework one is the construction of the axle. Few years ago these aluminum axle with Shimano standard diameter tends to snap. Hope this one uses the 29mm standard that are used for Sram crankset in the near future. Anyways still great video as always Luke 🥖🥖🥖🥖
The problem isn't the shimano axle diameter, its the material choice for the axle. Aluminum is way less sturdy than steel and thusly not optimal for axles for several reasons. Hambini could tell you all about it :)
Nice one Luke, interesting development , keep us posted after you put the miles into it. Take care and when you go to the bakery "keep bagging your baguette " 🥖🥖🥖🥖
I've been running these Racework carbon cranks for about 5 months and was an early adopter. I'm using them on both a 2x and 1x setup. So far I'm quite happy with them due to the weight savings and performance. Neither the Racework Store or any other store selling these cranks knew the bolt torque settings on the non-drive side crank arm. I've been torquing the bolts to 8nm and I check periodically to make sure they stay secure. I think torqued any higher and you run the chance of stripping the bolts. Unfortunately these cheaper AliEx cranks seem to use M5 hex bolts which aren't as sturdy as M6 bolts that Shimano uses.
I have it for two week, not yet have a long ride on it. And I also asked the torque setting for left crank. The seller said 5 nm. A lot less than 12-14 nm normal shimano crank. But I use it anyway, consider this is my first carbon crank. any info on the torque setting from other carbon crank ..?
@@Gerus2000 5nm? I was initially torquing these Racework cranks at 6nm and on an out of saddle climb, the left crank arm fell off! 5nm to me would be risky. Just make sure to install the fixing bolt prior to torquing the pinch bolts and incrementally tighten each bolt carefully.
@@TraceVelo I weigh about 68-69kg, so I figure I'm well under the weight to stress the carbon crankset out. Also I do own that hollowed out alloy crankset as well. I did find they creaked in my PF BB carbon bike. Though when I mounted it to my BSA threaded alloy gravel bike the creaking disappeared. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the BB type, frame material or both?
The reason why SRAM DUB can get away with aluminum axles is that they are thicker than the standard 24mm axles used on most cranksets like Shimano. The did it to compensate for the flex that you get from smaller 24mm standard crankset axle diameter; since aluminum is softer than steel (as you mentioned) and thus it flexes more under load.
Sensai Luke, ...........another exquisite oriental component review and test. I think as your experience has brought all of us great entertainment and joy over the months i believe its time to upgrade your diet to Chinese Sir, so here are a few noodle/rice boxes, a man of your wisdom cannot survive on baguettes alone!🥡🥡🥡🥡🥡🥡 we all like the "cut of your jib" and what you do to educate and entertain us at the same time! Keep up the good work.
6:50 Looks awesome with the LTWOO gold color groupset. Hey Luke, any latest about the LTWOO electronic groupset? Hope to see another follow up video about it.
Hi Luke, I really like your videos. I am a little concerned about the combination of a 24mm diameter axle and a material like aluminum that is subject to fatigue. As Hambini pointed out aluminum axles are usually 30mm or at least 28.95 for Dub. I think it is no accident that nobody else uses 24mm aluminum axles. Obviously the torque load is the same that snapped your other 24mm aluminum axle... I had a nasty crash once caused by a chain slip in full power acceleration and still remember how first my foot fell through and then the bike took off... The failure mode would be similar in your case. I have never written a comment to any TH-cam video. I am only doing it now because I don't want you to get hurt. I learn a ton from your videos and want you to be able to continue with all body parts intact...😊
Thats a great Video, i'm still searching for a budget crankset especially carbon and i came to the same issue to find one... i think i gonna order this for my upcoming mtb build. ... thanks your again!
Hours ago I've just received a set of Fovno Aurora crankset (presumably the lightest alloy Chinese-made crankset) bought on Taobao, haven't opened the package yet, and I'm here watching your carbon crankset. The algorithm scared the shit of me... 😂 By the way, I don't want to gamble on the durability of 24mm alloy axle, either steel 24mm or alloy 29~30mm would be better IMHO.
Hello, Luke! Thank you very much for doing this amazing work! your videos are very helpful when choosing good spare parts, and your humor really lifts the mood in the evening after work) Can you tell more about your hip joint and how you came to the decision to lengthen the axle of the pedals? maybe you have articles about bikefit in your memory or some of your observations. I suffer from the problem of narrowing the gap of the left hip joint and I can’t adjust my position on the bike so that my left knee does not ache and I sit straight on the saddle.
So I used to feel a tightness in my groin area, especially when getting the power down when I was in the saddle. I didn't really know what it was until I watched a video from Cam Nichols where he sat down with a bike fitter and chatted about it. There are some really easy tests you can do at home to check if you have any hip impingement, so I would just have a quick Google around the topic. The pedals extenders I use are definitely not a sliver bullet to eliminate knee pain, but they have helped me enormously. They are not particularly expensive either, so might be worth experimenting to see if it can help you balance your pedal strokes.
@@TraceVelo Thank you! I just have a few washers under the pedals, I'll try to use them. I found out about my problem after an x-ray and then you released a video about 5 useful things that gave me an idea)
The most critical issue with carbon-metal cranksets is… the gluing of both materials ! I experienced this issue even with Specialized crankset on my Tarmac SL6… Sometimes, it will also be the consequence of a fall...
I'm around 5'11" and around 15 stone, I'd be better going on a diet before spending £140 trying to save 200 grams, I'd imagine the same could be said of yourself .
Excellent video as always. I think we all needed to see your camping/bikepacking? Can I get a link for the chain please? Do they do an 11 speed? Ngl, the gold has me suckered in 😂
Those Goldix one piece chainrings you have on those flexy cranks are lighter if you really want to chase those grams. So annoying they don't do these in 165 though. 😢
Can you tell me if they come in different color schemes? That yellowish gold decal just wouldn't go with my paint scheme at all. Also, I'll look forward to you (hopefully) updating us on these cranks 6 or so months down the road.
Great vid Luke. 🥖 Be interesting to see how it turns out after a proper few miles!! You said they could easily last 5000 miles. Now you've told the Mrs you're a full-time TH-camr and sent her out to work instead, so you could easily do a 1000 miles a week! So we'll lookout for the results first week of June then eh??😂😂😂🥖🥖🥖
I'm happy to see the alloy chainrings. I was waiting to cringe when the rings were revealed to be forged carbon. Carbon chainrings are a cute idea on paper, but too brittle to be economically smart to purchase unless you're swimming in money or on a pro team where your bike is rebuilt between stages. lol
I'm using the same chainrings as you. I've found that they're really thin chainrings for a 10 speed chain, the chain doesn't quite sit on the chainring too well laterally. I think they made them thin to accommodate 12 speed chains as they have the same pitch but thinner width.
Love your vids! It would be cool to see you have a look at some bike tools, maybe offer some advice/guidance on what us mere mortals need to buy and learn to have a crack at maintenance and builds.
Note that Sigeyi makes a power meter for 3-bolt SRAM cranksets like this (even though SRAM no longer offers Quarq for 3-bolt AFAIK). They're like $335-$355 USD and are available in both 5-bolt and Shimano 4-bolt. And with the Sigeyi you could use decent chainrings like Shimano or Praxis. Those included chainrings look like they will shift poorly since they have no ramps.
I think i m riding the same rings, just branded different. If i were racing i'd ask myself the question, for for general use (i'm let's say in the top 15% of the general cycling population, performance wise), they're fine. My bias is i'll do a lot to avoid paying the price rackets from Sram & Shimano, But honestly with my eyes closed i dont think i could tell the difference. I also ride Shimano & Sram red stuff.
I took my bike to the shop a few days ago because my chain was popping off whenever I stomped on the pedals. The mechanic said I needed a new chain, rear cassette, and front big chain ring. The crank is Dura Ace(Covid shortages => no Ultegra with power meter to be found), and the rear cassette and chain are Ultegra. (12,000 miles and two years for all components). It is costing me $550. I don't mine paying more $ for premium stuff but when it wears out so fast it sucks. I might go the Ali Express route for my next bike.
@@xtremegopher I have taken it to the bike shop numerous times in two years. I don't do mechanical stuff. I wash it and keep the chain lubricated. That's it. It worked fine right up to the end. My last ride it popped off four times in 60 miles.
Don't know where you got the weight of the SRAM Red but mine weigts 544g in 172.5mm with 52/36 chainrings on. So still a bit lighter since you haven't included the chainring bolts & preload cap in your weight comparison and if you can get your hands on a used set they are not necessarily more expensive. Otherwise this seems to be a good and available option.
Luke, I'm sure you've mentioned this in the past, but how tall are you, and what size frame do you usually ride? I'm largely interested based on your choice of shorter cranks. You've always struck me as a pretty tall dude. I'm 175cm and am weighing up whether to go down to 165s from my 170s
Just done it. I'm 175cm tall also and I've swapped in GRX 165cm cranks for riding LEJOG at the end of May. Only four rides in, 230km, but plenty of stiff hills too, and the difference is immediately apparent - just not the same strain in the knees or shoulders/neck - less pain! It makes it easier to spin up the hills. I sit on my saddle, usual cadence, but somehow things feel easier. Technically I think this has to do with my patella being directly over the pedal axle now. Get a bike fit, (mine was an old school one holding a plumbline at patella, and it) seems to have worked for me.
@@percival3830 That's really interesting feedback thanks for that. I'm running Dura Ace 170mm cranks at the moment because that's what my power meter is compatible with. But my winter bike is still running 172.5 Ultra cranks that I'm tempted to swap out for something shorter - based on your feedback it sounds like it's worth doing
@@adammillsindustries. Thought about it but the thread is minimal (width of the sprocket) so didn't have confidence in that, I just removed them instead.
🥖🥖Hey Luke. As always, amazing video! Will you be doing an upgrade for this carbon crank set? I'm really looking forward to it! Keep up the great work 🥖♥️🚲
Thank you for what you do Luke. I purchased some of these and have had issues from the start. The cranks do not come with any kind of direction as to how many NM to secure the crank arm bolts. I started with 8nm and the non drive side came loose on first ride. I then did these up incrementally and they continued to come loose all the way up to stripping the allen bolt heads. I have sent the seller repeated texts. 12 texts and 4 videos to be exact. With no closure. They just keep asking me what the issue is and I tell them over and over. I finally even asked them just to send me the bolts and they wanted me to give them 6 dollars for shipping. Worst customer service I have ever experienced. Do not I repeat DO NOT use Outdoor Sport Cycling Ejoyiing Store for ANYTHING. They are the worst! BTW what NM did you end up using and are they still ok? Thank you Sir!
Those unbranded cranks look very much like my FSA carbon crankset. I got them used, so no idea how old that design is. I won't be surprised if a new alloy set is actually lighter. 1:00
Hi Luke. Interesting product. Is there any way of fitting tripple chain rings? With advancing years, I need the smaller ring for the hills and light weight would be a very real benefit.
Thanks Luke for risking your life and testing all of this 😁 I've got Toseek carbon seatpost and absolutely happy with it and was thinking about replacing my saddle with something carbon and more ventilated with minimal padding for cheap. Any recommendations?
With regards the axle breakages, If you assume constant torque from the rider. A steel axle at 24mm Outside Diameter and an aluminium axle at around 29/30mm outside diameter has a comparable shear stress in the side wall. When the axle diameter is made smaller but the material is not compensated ie 24mm aluminium - you may run into some problems. It should be noted that you can usually alleviate these by making the side walls thicker but then you add weight.
I'd be more worried about hardened steel bearings going into 30mm axles which is why I prefer 24mm (shimano axles) with a delrin spacer and then the bearing - basically it protects the expensive component which is usually the crank.
Looks like the pen is working.
The ultimate crossover ... Hambini and Luke.
Needs more hairdresser
@@lucky.youtube just need project farm to chip in as well.
My hairdresser approves this.
@@carlosgaspar8447 how fast can these cheap chinese cranks spin before exploding? let's find out
SRAM looking cranks with Rotor looking chainrings built to a Shimano standard.
If you are going to steal, steal from the best
@@kondor4920 It’s not stealing if the patents have already expired after 20 years. Then the design is free for anyone to copy.
What's not to love?
@@iMadrid11 those Rotor chainrings that look like that are not 20 years old. That is their current design.
Would I be able to stick a Shimano left crank power metre on this crankset?
How many brands can we spot ripped off in this? Lets count:
1. Shimano for the axle standard/IP
2. Rotor aldhu chainrings
3. Sram branding
4. Raceface branding
5. Sram packaging.
Utterly frustrating because they clearly know-how to make something. Just needed 20 more mins at the design desk to make it original. Will that mindset ever change? Who likes this stuff? Also wouldn't touch a 24mm Alu axle with a barge pole!
Add up those 5. That is a lot of $$$. No way of getting anywhere near the retail price if they had to develop in-house.
I know that cranks are designed to take the full weight of someone stood on them, but did anyone else flinch on the stiffness test?
Lovely videos, great work!
Thanks for taking the time to create, edit, and share! 🥖🥖🥖
Cheers Dave, glad you liked it! But yeah that stiffness test didn't really show much tbh, crank arms army really designed to be stressed in that direction, but was interesting regardless I think.
@@TraceVelo it certainly was! And you certainly shot things well enough that you could see things
More than just standing on them I hope. When taking off from a standing start, one might pull up on one toe clip while pressing down with more than full weight on the other peddle.
@@surferdude4487 indeed, or the shock load from when you drop off a curb
Sram force arms, shimano spindle and rotor chainrings! What’s not to love!!
Luke is getting good at spending my money... I mean by making me want things I didn't think I wanted before lol
This is the way
No rider weight limit means Race Works didn’t do any testing. As always Chinese groupset makers tend to release products early and use early adopters as product testers. Future product revisions fixes of the design are only done once failures are publicly reported.
There are carbon parts that don't have rider weight limits on them, but they are typically more expensive ones ha
racework is a taiwanese brand dude!!!no chinese
seeing they only come in 170mm, this is very, very early stage
I bought three. Two have been fine, but one was consistently coming loose. Came off on the non-drive side twice, causing a crash both times. Was torqued WAY past the mfr's specs the second time, and just came off still attached to the cleat. Tossed that one in the bin, but am (I know) still riding the other two, which have been great.
Exactly the video I've been waiting for. Was holding out for skypivot carbon crank, but that doesn't look like it will ever materialize. Very good to see an alternative to skypivot. Thank you Luke.
No problem Li, glad you liked it !
Always good to arrive home and have a new trace velo video to watch ❤
Thanks! As someone who has had 1 crank arm break and toss me over the bars and broke my thumb,etc.
Its good to keep limits of light parts in mind.
Cheers Brad! Yeah it's definitely something to bear in mind. It's all well and good chasing grams off the bike, but you need to be sensible and understand the limits of your gear at the end of the day. I've shown failures of cheap carbon parts before, so it pays to be conscious of these sort of things!
Did you do some research on those cracks? I've read about multiple breaks
Been watching most of your reviews and I think you are underappreciated. Keep up the good work!
Another concern here might be the aluminum inserts in the carbon arms, carbon doesn't change form in different temperatures, but aluminum does. So whatever they use to adhere that inserts into the arms, might potentially fail at some point.
Very true. I will say though, all the BSA BB shells in my carbon frames have been fine over the years. But definitely see your point, one to keep an eye on for sure!
@@TraceVeloTo say nothing of all the carbon forks with aluminum crowns and fork ends that are out there
Hi Luke, hope all is well with your new adventure. The contents you produced were top notch, keep up the good work. 🥖
Thanks C'est moi!!!! Yeah really enjoying the full time gig, hopefully I can make it work in the long term! 🥖🥖🥖
I think you're mistaken about most of us using steel chainrings. Steel chainrings are mostly found on very low model bikes. The odd exception is that at the Tiagra (or so) level, the small chainring will be steel but the big one will be aluminum.
I was using aluminum alloy rings, inner and outer, over 40 years ago. Even though I generated a great ddeal of torque on take-off, those rings never let me down.
100% correct. ALL mid-level and higher road groupsets will have 7000 series, aircraft aluminum, chainrings. Only the very lowest level road chainrings and 1x mtb chainrings will be steel.
And this is the reason why the "lowest level" is the go to for me. It is far more durable.
I LOVE IT!! now lets hope it doesn't break. Cant wait for the 2nd review!. Great Job Luke! 🥖🥖🥖
Great video! 🥖🥖🥖🥖But I just found the SRAM, full carbon, Red, new 52/36, BB30, 554g. EBay awarded my $130 bid with a win! No Ali for me on this one.😅
Have run these since the new year. No issues to report. I am a smaller rider and dont make mega power, but they look good and have held up fine.
Nice, good to hear Chuck, thanks for the comment!
Be aware, it will fail at some point, the non-drive side arm is badly designed, and will crack. Check it before every ride.
A quality video and comment from Hambini, well done 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
The only thing that worries me with this racework one is the construction of the axle. Few years ago these aluminum axle with Shimano standard diameter tends to snap. Hope this one uses the 29mm standard that are used for Sram crankset in the near future. Anyways still great video as always Luke 🥖🥖🥖🥖
The problem isn't the shimano axle diameter, its the material choice for the axle. Aluminum is way less sturdy than steel and thusly not optimal for axles for several reasons. Hambini could tell you all about it :)
That whip is looking pretty nice with the gold chain and accents, and the weight is 🥖🥖🥖👌 (French chef’s kiss)
Nice one Luke, interesting development , keep us posted after you put the miles into it. Take care and when you go to the bakery "keep bagging your baguette " 🥖🥖🥖🥖
AHH that's the real dream, to open a small Parisian bakery, and serve baguettes to the masses... Maybe I'll get there one day 😂
Congrats on the career switch. Love the channel.
Commenting for the algorithm! Hope you great fortune in the youtube career!
I've been running these Racework carbon cranks for about 5 months and was an early adopter. I'm using them on both a 2x and 1x setup. So far I'm quite happy with them due to the weight savings and performance. Neither the Racework Store or any other store selling these cranks knew the bolt torque settings on the non-drive side crank arm. I've been torquing the bolts to 8nm and I check periodically to make sure they stay secure. I think torqued any higher and you run the chance of stripping the bolts. Unfortunately these cheaper AliEx cranks seem to use M5 hex bolts which aren't as sturdy as M6 bolts that Shimano uses.
I have it for two week, not yet have a long ride on it. And I also asked the torque setting for left crank. The seller said 5 nm. A lot less than 12-14 nm normal shimano crank. But I use it anyway, consider this is my first carbon crank. any info on the torque setting from other carbon crank ..?
@@Gerus2000 5nm? I was initially torquing these Racework cranks at 6nm and on an out of saddle climb, the left crank arm fell off! 5nm to me would be risky. Just make sure to install the fixing bolt prior to torquing the pinch bolts and incrementally tighten each bolt carefully.
@@jonathan_f2 I will increased to 8nm, considering that you already use the torque for 5 months. Thx broh...
Awesome cheers Jonathan, glad to hear they are still going strong!
@@TraceVelo I weigh about 68-69kg, so I figure I'm well under the weight to stress the carbon crankset out. Also I do own that hollowed out alloy crankset as well. I did find they creaked in my PF BB carbon bike. Though when I mounted it to my BSA threaded alloy gravel bike the creaking disappeared. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the BB type, frame material or both?
Ive been waiting for this crankset to be reviewed ...thanks luke
🥖 Excellent engineering flex testing on those cranks!
I had the same crankset and it worked well as what Luke mentioned in the video.
It will fail. Check the non-drive side arm every ride.
The reason why SRAM DUB can get away with aluminum axles is that they are thicker than the standard 24mm axles used on most cranksets like Shimano. The did it to compensate for the flex that you get from smaller 24mm standard crankset axle diameter; since aluminum is softer than steel (as you mentioned) and thus it flexes more under load.
That looks stunning. 7.4kgs for a large disc brake framed bike. Spot on. Carbon cranks for that amazing. Your bike looks ace. Almost like a Canyon
Cheers Chris. Yeah the OG Evkin frame was definitely 'inspired' by some of Canyons designs thats for sure 😂
Sensai Luke, ...........another exquisite oriental component review and test. I think as your experience has brought all of us great entertainment and joy over the months i believe its time to upgrade your diet to Chinese Sir, so here are a few noodle/rice boxes, a man of your wisdom cannot survive on baguettes alone!🥡🥡🥡🥡🥡🥡 we all like the "cut of your jib" and what you do to educate and entertain us at the same time! Keep up the good work.
Fascinating. I will be interested to see the long term follow up. Thanks Luke!!
To me, “Clavicula” always sounded like the bone you’re likely to break when you snap your cranks while winding up for a sprint. 🙃🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
6:50 Looks awesome with the LTWOO gold color groupset. Hey Luke, any latest about the LTWOO electronic groupset? Hope to see another follow up video about it.
This is the content i am here for. Keeping going! I can really vibe with your kind of humor.
Hi Luke,
I really like your videos.
I am a little concerned about the combination of a 24mm diameter axle and a material like aluminum that is subject to fatigue. As Hambini pointed out aluminum axles are usually 30mm or at least 28.95 for Dub. I think it is no accident that nobody else uses 24mm aluminum axles.
Obviously the torque load is the same that snapped your other 24mm aluminum axle...
I had a nasty crash once caused by a chain slip in full power acceleration and still remember how first my foot fell through and then the bike took off...
The failure mode would be similar in your case.
I have never written a comment to any TH-cam video. I am only doing it now because I don't want you to get hurt.
I learn a ton from your videos and want you to be able to continue with all body parts intact...😊
Love videos from Luke/TraceVelo better than watching gcn imo, - Luke does absolutely brilliant stuff on TH-cam ✌️ 🥖
3:44 the legendary pan lid makes a return
u are the only one i trust about these chinese products m8 ty for making these vids
Thats a great Video, i'm still searching for a budget crankset especially carbon and i came to the same issue to find one... i think i gonna order this for my upcoming mtb build. ...
thanks your again!
Hours ago I've just received a set of Fovno Aurora crankset (presumably the lightest alloy Chinese-made crankset) bought on Taobao, haven't opened the package yet, and I'm here watching your carbon crankset. The algorithm scared the shit of me... 😂
By the way, I don't want to gamble on the durability of 24mm alloy axle, either steel 24mm or alloy 29~30mm would be better IMHO.
Hello, Luke!
Thank you very much for doing this amazing work! your videos are very helpful when choosing good spare parts, and your humor really lifts the mood in the evening after work)
Can you tell more about your hip joint and how you came to the decision to lengthen the axle of the pedals? maybe you have articles about bikefit in your memory or some of your observations. I suffer from the problem of narrowing the gap of the left hip joint and I can’t adjust my position on the bike so that my left knee does not ache and I sit straight on the saddle.
So I used to feel a tightness in my groin area, especially when getting the power down when I was in the saddle. I didn't really know what it was until I watched a video from Cam Nichols where he sat down with a bike fitter and chatted about it. There are some really easy tests you can do at home to check if you have any hip impingement, so I would just have a quick Google around the topic. The pedals extenders I use are definitely not a sliver bullet to eliminate knee pain, but they have helped me enormously. They are not particularly expensive either, so might be worth experimenting to see if it can help you balance your pedal strokes.
@@TraceVelo Thank you! I just have a few washers under the pedals, I'll try to use them. I found out about my problem after an x-ray and then you released a video about 5 useful things that gave me an idea)
thank you for those info
hopefully you will makme a episode for carbon seatpost upgrade. thank you
Can't wait to see long term usage and how it performs, thanks for the review 🥖🥖
Cheers for the comment NoName, have some baguettes on the house 🥖🥖🥖🥖
The most critical issue with carbon-metal cranksets is… the gluing of both materials ! I experienced this issue even with Specialized crankset on my Tarmac SL6… Sometimes, it will also be the consequence of a fall...
Karma at work here. I just sent you a message yesterday about getting one of these to review and here it is! Lol. Great reviews as always
Great video! As a heavier rider, I am bummed about the weight limit. Please update us if they happen to get back to you with the exact number.
He made up that weight limit completely on his own😂 The company doesn't list one so his number isn't even a company estimate
If you are a heavier rider, these lightweight component make no difference to your total system weight.
@@mjokffsgfjs so if you're heavy and buy light parts, your total weight isn't decreasing?🤣
@@veganpotterthevegan do the math, few hundred grams, to a system weight of 80-90kg, it's not even half a %. Comon.
I'm around 5'11" and around 15 stone, I'd be better going on a diet before spending £140 trying to save 200 grams, I'd imagine the same could be said of yourself .
How are you liking the 3D printed saddle?
Racework have some familiar looking crank set from
Racework XT & XTR
hi did you review the 3d printed saddle or did i miss it ?? keep up the great vids 🥖🥖
They fail to mention what type of BB they use it would be appreciated if someone did including Racework.
Could you do XC content as well please? Cranks, rims/wheelsets and frames… love your content!
Have a set of Raceworks brakes - 6500km - no issues, neat stuff.
01:56 those drilling on the inside, saving weight and also making it stronger too
@trace velo - Chris Miller Cycling mentioned you their NERO Show episode #33. You should see if you can be a guest on that show! Take care Luke!
Hi Luke, 16lbs thats amazing 😮😮, would u bless & share us your full bicycle parts, brand, etc we would love to replicate your ride 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Excellent video as always. I think we all needed to see your camping/bikepacking?
Can I get a link for the chain please? Do they do an 11 speed? Ngl, the gold has me suckered in 😂
Those Goldix one piece chainrings you have on those flexy cranks are lighter if you really want to chase those grams. So annoying they don't do these in 165 though. 😢
So nice to see these companies coming in & eating the big guys lunch! Hope it continues !!
This would be so nice for my 80s Centurion carbon tube frame... Too bad the square taper bottombracket is stuck in there forever :(
Can you tell me if they come in different color schemes? That yellowish gold decal just wouldn't go with my paint scheme at all. Also, I'll look forward to you (hopefully) updating us on these cranks 6 or so months down the road.
Wow, gravel bike that weights as a road bike! This carbon racework crankset looks amazing! 😍 🤩
I think the blue bike is the gravel bike, and this one is the road bike.
Man you are the one i trust in these chinese products Godbless to you 🔥
Hi.. Ltwo is cooking a new groupset, I heard.. I think you already knew it.. Waiting to be features it here😉
LUKE, great video as always. When will u share the outcome after using it for a while now. Thanks in advance.
Speaking of inspiration, the font looks like Raceface
The chainrings really resemble the Rotor Aldhu ones. You don't even have to squint!
Nice crankset!! Nice review. About the chain line. Is this the same as Ultegra??
Great vid Luke. 🥖
Be interesting to see how it turns out after a proper few miles!! You said they could easily last 5000 miles. Now you've told the Mrs you're a full-time TH-camr and sent her out to work instead, so you could easily do a 1000 miles a week! So we'll lookout for the results first week of June then eh??😂😂😂🥖🥖🥖
I'm happy to see the alloy chainrings. I was waiting to cringe when the rings were revealed to be forged carbon. Carbon chainrings are a cute idea on paper, but too brittle to be economically smart to purchase unless you're swimming in money or on a pro team where your bike is rebuilt between stages. lol
Amazing video as always Luke enjoyed it a lot!
Love your videos Luke.. Keep them coming.
And gotta love the RACE FACE "inspired" logo
Can't wait for a L-Twoo eRX review
I'm using the same chainrings as you. I've found that they're really thin chainrings for a 10 speed chain, the chain doesn't quite sit on the chainring too well laterally. I think they made them thin to accommodate 12 speed chains as they have the same pitch but thinner width.
Are they not meant to be for 12spd set up...at least that's what Luke is using
Great these come with the GXP standard as you can then pair with sub compact doubles from Senicx.
Impressive bit of kit for the money. Good find Luke. 🥖
Bring back the intro please 🥖🥖 🥖🥖🥖 🥖🥖🥖 🥖
Love your vids! It would be cool to see you have a look at some bike tools, maybe offer some advice/guidance on what us mere mortals need to buy and learn to have a crack at maintenance and builds.
Note that Sigeyi makes a power meter for 3-bolt SRAM cranksets like this (even though SRAM no longer offers Quarq for 3-bolt AFAIK). They're like $335-$355 USD and are available in both 5-bolt and Shimano 4-bolt.
And with the Sigeyi you could use decent chainrings like Shimano or Praxis. Those included chainrings look like they will shift poorly since they have no ramps.
I've got an unramped un pinned 54t paired to a 36t and it shifts flawlessly with a di2 Dura FD. It's slightly slower but works.
I think i m riding the same rings, just branded different. If i were racing i'd ask myself the question, for for general use (i'm let's say in the top 15% of the general cycling population, performance wise), they're fine. My bias is i'll do a lot to avoid paying the price rackets from Sram & Shimano, But honestly with my eyes closed i dont think i could tell the difference. I also ride Shimano & Sram red stuff.
The arms are shaped like SRAM, the font looks like Raceface and the axle is Shimano lite.
when a new video come up i just watch it :) thats all
Second pronounce of Clavucila is the right one
So can we expect a review of the 3D printed saddle you’ve got on there?
I took my bike to the shop a few days ago because my chain was popping off whenever I stomped on the pedals. The mechanic said I needed a new chain, rear cassette, and front big chain ring. The crank is Dura Ace(Covid shortages => no Ultegra with power meter to be found), and the rear cassette and chain are Ultegra. (12,000 miles and two years for all components). It is costing me $550. I don't mine paying more $ for premium stuff but when it wears out so fast it sucks. I might go the Ali Express route for my next bike.
If you actually put 12,000 miles on a single chain, this is 100% your fault. Get a chain checker.
@@xtremegopher 12000??? how on earth. I checked my chain today. 0,75 wear after 1100miles 60:40 road/gravel
@@xtremegopher I have taken it to the bike shop numerous times in two years. I don't do mechanical stuff. I wash it and keep the chain lubricated. That's it. It worked fine right up to the end. My last ride it popped off four times in 60 miles.
Don't know where you got the weight of the SRAM Red but mine weigts 544g in 172.5mm with 52/36 chainrings on. So still a bit lighter since you haven't included the chainring bolts & preload cap in your weight comparison and if you can get your hands on a used set they are not necessarily more expensive. Otherwise this seems to be a good and available option.
This is me camping 😂 (when did the funky intro get dropped? Just noticed)
Luke, I'm sure you've mentioned this in the past, but how tall are you, and what size frame do you usually ride? I'm largely interested based on your choice of shorter cranks. You've always struck me as a pretty tall dude. I'm 175cm and am weighing up whether to go down to 165s from my 170s
Just done it. I'm 175cm tall also and I've swapped in GRX 165cm cranks for riding LEJOG at the end of May. Only four rides in, 230km, but plenty of stiff hills too, and the difference is immediately apparent - just not the same strain in the knees or shoulders/neck - less pain! It makes it easier to spin up the hills. I sit on my saddle, usual cadence, but somehow things feel easier. Technically I think this has to do with my patella being directly over the pedal axle now. Get a bike fit, (mine was an old school one holding a plumbline at patella, and it) seems to have worked for me.
@@percival3830 That's really interesting feedback thanks for that. I'm running Dura Ace 170mm cranks at the moment because that's what my power meter is compatible with. But my winter bike is still running 172.5 Ultra cranks that I'm tempted to swap out for something shorter - based on your feedback it sounds like it's worth doing
Idk when the next sale is but it might be possible to pick up just the crank and axle alone for under 100 which is insane
On those cassettes, the small screws that bind the cogs together have a habit of coming undone. When they do they make an awful mess of the hub.
Lock tight them in.
@@adammillsindustries. Thought about it but the thread is minimal (width of the sprocket) so didn't have confidence in that, I just removed them instead.
Big week coming up as the Shanghai Bicycle Show is this week.
My fridge is full of red bull...
You will definitely need it! Jia you!
What an interesting mash up copy of different brands mixing Shimano, Rotor and Sram cranksets to arrive at this one.
Also, the logo resembling Race Face lol
🥖🥖Hey Luke. As always, amazing video!
Will you be doing an upgrade for this carbon crank set? I'm really looking forward to it!
Keep up the great work 🥖♥️🚲
Thank you for what you do Luke. I purchased some of these and have had issues from the start. The cranks do not come with any kind of direction as to how many NM to secure the crank arm bolts. I started with 8nm and the non drive side came loose on first ride. I then did these up incrementally and they continued to come loose all the way up to stripping the allen bolt heads. I have sent the seller repeated texts. 12 texts and 4 videos to be exact. With no closure. They just keep asking me what the issue is and I tell them over and over. I finally even asked them just to send me the bolts and they wanted me to give them 6 dollars for shipping. Worst customer service I have ever experienced. Do not I repeat DO NOT use Outdoor Sport Cycling Ejoyiing Store for ANYTHING. They are the worst! BTW what NM did you end up using and are they still ok? Thank you Sir!
Heads up.... they just redesigned the crank attachment to a dub style.... I just ordered one....
@@fastbladeproductions7961what about the new attachment system and the quality on the new version?
Those unbranded cranks look very much like my FSA carbon crankset. I got them used, so no idea how old that design is. I won't be surprised if a new alloy set is actually lighter. 1:00
Hi Luke. Interesting product. Is there any way of fitting tripple chain rings? With advancing years, I need the smaller ring for the hills and light weight would be a very real benefit.
can you talk about the 3d printed seat?
please review the racework carbon frame set
Thanks Luke for risking your life and testing all of this 😁
I've got Toseek carbon seatpost and absolutely happy with it and was thinking about replacing my saddle with something carbon and more ventilated with minimal padding for cheap. Any recommendations?
try elita one
The stiffness test doesn't meam that much, it isn't designed in that load direction
be interesting to know if a non-drive side shimano powermeter will fit. love the gold chain. Just put one on my road bike (KMC SL version).